Versace Pour Homme Dylan Blue is a spicy/woody/aquatic based on a central accord of piquant spices, citrus, violet and mineral ozonics. The first blast is like a photocopy of the "sadly departed" Byblos Uomo (this is the good news, many notes in common indeed: musk, bergamot, lavender, ambrox, violet, spices, patchouli, mineral-ozonic notes, sharp woods etc. I see in this phase also a tad of Chopard Heaven) but after five minutes the mainstream stark salty-gassy woodiness (which is taking the world by storm by now) starts screaming out (even more salty and gassy, like a crazy skizophrenic oceanic kind of Bvlgari Man ideally joined to a whichever "crunchy" Givenchy Gentleman Only) with my huge bored disappointment. Nothing more to add. Not for me.
This vanilla-tonka dyad is the golden thread and core of this composition, enriched ny undertones if mandarine and orange flower that balance out the vanilla sweetness. Interestingly, whilst clearly sweet, this one in never sticky or cloying on my skin; it is endowed with a touch of slimness and elegance.
This opening mix sheds the citrus is the drydown, in order to replace it with a smooth and gentle frankincense, with a veil of a mildly honeyed cinnamon veil draped over it. With time the tonka - admixed with whiffs of the incense - wins out and becomes more dominant until the end.
The sillage is moderate, the projection is excellent and the longevity is a stupendous thirteen hours on my skin.
This scent for warmer winter days is smooth and comforting whilst never being heavy. During the first half is remains a bit too restrained and too thin, but with times it becomes more intensive. Whilst not ultra-creative, it is solidly made, some ingredients are of high quality, and the overall impression is on the positive side - but with a wafer-thin margin. 3.25/5.
Not a fragrance but a product of pure distillation. Another dark-smoky potion from this specialized "Middle Eastern perfumery brand" as product of pure distillations of woody resins formed as a result of natural infections affecting several species of Aquilaria (agarwood) evergreen trees. Along the time these infections naturally cause the trees to produce a really viscous resin as a by-product due to attack this infection. Oudh is the "outcome" of this "ancient" woody resins' distillation-process. Even in this case this arcane potion is mouldy as a dark cave studded inside by extinguished bonfires, mossy moulds, stale humidity and burnt odorous woody resins. Just for the straightforward lovers of this "hard extreme" genre. A "fumidus" hyper dry woody potion (vaguely petroleous) a la Montale Dark Aoud (the latter anyway synthetic) but natural, far more realistic, stark and liturgically ritual. A medieval kind of ghostly "miasma" heralding images of fortified citadels, steel swords, steamy castles, battlefields, warriors barbarians, bronze armatures and knights-errant.
A hersperidic undertone is combined with layers of cumin, coriander, cardamom, cistus and cumin - the result is crisp, mineralic composition, with an peppery incense, not too ceremonial and with a touch of smokiness, but overall a bright, tart and acrylic mix. Creative and convincing.
The drydown, however, only brings out small and nuanced developments, like floral tones, touches of pencil shavings and, later on, a slant of the incense towards the less peppery and towards a myrrh impression.
I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and a brilliant twelve hours of longevity on my skin.
This scent for warmer autumn days is original and well crafted. Whilst being somewhat underwhelming and a tad too synthetic in the later stages, and being a touch linear in spite of its formidable complexity, this creation incorporates original touches and ideas. 3.25/5.
If you’ve read any of my other reviews, you’re probably aware that I favor the weird and the challenging. While this isn’t the place to justify my rationale, I will say that I’m not into weird for weird’s sake; I come at perfume from two angles: the functional and the experiential. While the former is the norm (a scent you wear in a traditional manner), the latter (a scent you study and explore as a discrete aesthetic) is usually where I turn for innovation or drama. Innovation, by nature, should be discomforting in some way as it’s about change, but innovation must also be coherent and make sense. Aftelier’s recent Memento Mori falls squarely into this category and excels at the effect it produces.
I’ve never had the opportunity to try any of Mandy Aftel’s perfumes mainly due to availability and cost, but I was able to get my nose on a fellow perfume writer’s sample. A tiny dab to the back of my hand kept me engrossed for hours, and while sniffing other scents throughout the night, I kept returning to the spot where I applied it — the mark of an intriguing composition. Be warned: this is a difficult scent, but it’s also quite heartrending. It opens with visceral ripe cheese note, breaking away about twenty minutes later into a fleshy mix of clean sweat, salty butter, and semi-sweet decomposition. Throughout, there’s a steady cardboard-like impression that sometimes stems from iris as well as an incidental floral note to keep things from going too dark. The scent’s as mesmerizing as it is disturbing. It’s not just carnal; it’s animalic but in an atavistic, primitive manner. While it pushes the envelope in ways you can’t really prepare yourself for, every aspect of it feels calculated, intentional, and curiously comforting. It’s long lasting and hums with low sillage, but scents like this really aren’t about traditional metrics. Memento Mori is compulsory for anyone interested in what scents can accomplish beyond the realm of perfume niceties. A great introduction to a line I’ve been curious to check out for some time, and this is one I’ll be seeking out in some capacity or another to smell again as I can’t get it out of my mind.
I smell the black pepper immediately and this rolls into a very dark woods merging of perpper/woods that reminds me of the smell of wenge wood or some other dark hardwood that has an oily peat moss dark seriousness. There is softness to follow the woods (tonka, musk) but the character of the fragrance is all black pepper and serious darkwood or pepperwood. The fragrance is a little shallow with only a few things to dwell upon in its development so to get more out of the experience I tried an extra spray or two and it works very well. Smells great! Black Pepper by Comme des Garcons is as fine a fragrance to fill the edgeless ovoidal CDG bottle design since Wonderwood.
14th January, 2017 (last edited: 15th January, 2017)
A great fragrance from the house of Molyneux. It reminds me of Aramis 900. There is no rose but I still get the rose accord - perhaps the mixture of cardamom and peach are playing a trick and reminding me of lactonic rose.
I don't find it vile of offensive like the other reviewers. Perhaps it went through a bad reformulation like the Captain.
I think one should try the vintage version.
The warm ambery incense with the woodsy cedary undertone define the core character of this creation.
This develops in quite a gourmand-style fragrance. Down the track a soft white musk is added, and from then on the character changes very little, until it peters out gradually towards the end.
I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.
A soft, warm and comforting wintery scent, which is very pleasing but a touch overly synthetic. Additionally, it is a bit too generic and predictable. Not bad, though. 2.75/5.
For the price point and quality this is an EASY blind buy for sure. Well blended from start to finish with decent longevity and average projection. Nice peppery nutmeg start and skin scent dry down of woods and some sweetness. For less than 25 dollars for a 100 ml I can't see why this wouldn't be a clear winner. Enjoy!
A boring saffron and wood. Why did Jo even bother. It has got nothing going for it. Aramis Calligraphy is better and cheaper.
Or you can go for Odin Lacha in similar price range- great longevity and projection and scent is 100 times better,
Dear Oak Moss,
Without you, I feel like an impostor. You're sorely missed.
- Chypre 21
Herbal and minty in the beginning, natural-smelling damp and rooty Haitian vetiver the rest of the way. It's like one of those songs with a promisingly catchy opening hook but falls into a repetitive loop as it moves along. If mentholated vetiver scent is your thing, be sure to check this Heeley out. Personally I found it crude and a little dull.
Soapy, elegant masculine powerhouse from the days of yore. If you like AD Plus or Worth PH you will like this for sure.
The bergamot and the iris notes blend in with the davana essence to a pleasant, fresh-floral opening with a slightly boozy incense touch topping it off.
The drydown adds more incense with a slight slant towards a whiff of myrrh, and a soft and somewhat dull patchouli arises in the base together with a somewhat bland woodsy undertone; in the Coda of this olfactory symphony the balsamic undercurrent echoes until the end.
The sillage is moderate, the projection good and the longevity ten hours.
A pleasant spring composition, with a nice opening with a creative touch that is followed by a less convincing end game. Overall - just - a thumbs-up. 3/5.
I must second the eloquent praise of the esteemed WhySoSerious, which reflects my own sentiments about Maai. It is a fragrance that brings a smile to my face every time, because it is so alive and vibrant, like the olfactory silhouette of an actual human being- a very sexy human being at that. Wearing it is like merging a second skin with your own. The green tuberose note is both elegant and - thanks to the aldehydes -sparkly, the animalics are present, though not in-your-face but rather exuding a gentle but insistent erotic tug - like the hypnotizing skin scent of your beloved. Warm resinous woods and mossiness perfect the experience, which is framed by an Art Deco sense of restraint - nothing here is garish and over the top and in fact Maai is far more wearable than most vintage animalic chypres, which may have olfactory bits and pieces protruding from them shamelessly, that are no longer considered as desireable as they used to be. Maai, then, is not tired retro, but neo-classicism at its best and it truly shines among the many half-baked, sterile, synthetic, lifeless, thin or screechy perfume wraiths that constitute "niche" today, a living, breathing, blooming, glowing beauty.
12th January, 2017 (last edited: 14th January, 2017)
Another hidden disappeared gem for us and one of the most sublime "Odes" to the gorgeous note of ylang-ylang I've stumbled upon in my miserable life of southern solitary perfumista :-). Eau de Metal, yes a classic treasure straight from the "old style" Paco Rabanne's glorious "course", welcomes us dramatically (I'd say "metallically" in a quite angular, edgy, aldehydic-herbal-sharply floral-earthy-leafy-botanic way and just for twenty seconds or few more) before quickly morphing in to one of the most apparently "soapy-neutral-abstract-mossy" (but actually complexly floral) bases I've ever experienced on my "experienced" mediterranean skin. Eau de Metal is basically a musky-floral concoction (smelling finally at same time subtle-floral-chic and warmly organic-musky on skin) and the dry down is almost identical to a familiar aroma for me, namely the one of bath-foam Nidra Latte Palmolive (being Eau de Metal surely more subtle, complex, musky-boise and nuanced). Despite a veritable massive floral presence the floral perception is moderate under the nose (like something substantially restrained) because of a really dominant and catalysing soapy-musky vibe. White musk and oakmoss are complemented by soapy amber, balsams, tonka and by a complex "flori-herbal" bouquet (mastered by rose, hyacinth and ylang-ylang). The first blast is edgy with its lamellar twist of leaves, bitter-green notes, aldehydes, green earthiness (vetiver) and aromatics. A musky aura is by soon evident in its balmy substance supported by a sheer ambery soapy presence with a multicolored floral kaleidoscope of sophisticated nuances (jasmine, iris, ylang-ylang, hyacinth). Ylang-ylang is super chic, radiant and exotic while a musky hyacinth enhances a dominant "neutral" mossy (earthy-humid) atmosphere throughout (kind of vaguely earthy, mouldy, camphoraceous and boise). All the laminal elements gradually tame their "fury" tending to slide towards a more silky musky-soapy-floral atmosphere mastered by musky amber and chic/exotic ylang-ylang. Dry down is warm/musky/soapy on skin, is like a dive in the most heavenly hot foamy bathtub of this universe (spumous, milky, laundry-neutral, dreamy) but is super chic and sophisticatated "at distance" as well. Ylang-ylang and hyacinth are the royal elements of this marvelous soapy bouquet providing a surprisingly modern glamour "unisex" vibe. This juice is disappeared from the shelves but is still incredibly modern and timeless in its attractive intimate aura. A great pity its disappearance.
SANDALWOOD & FIGS. Dirty Velvet is inspired by the Villa d'Estrees hotel in the Latin Quarter of Paris where the founder of Vilhelm Parfumerie resided for some time. I don't really smell any connection to old hotel rooms through this scent but maybe you have to be there to get the reference. The fragrance opens with a beautiful woody fig note that has warm green citrus on one side of the fig and dry leaves on the other. The fig stays solid throughout the fragrance but the tobacco leaves start to resemble a sweet sandalwood aroma which is the base note. Green fig and sandalwood is mostly what I smell here and it is a nice caramelized gourmand sandalwood note, which to me is slightly feminine. I don't really warm up to it much but I am not a big fan of sweetness in fragrance and in my opinion the sandalwood essence is fine without the sweet fig. Hmm.
Next time I try Dirty Velvet I spray less in one spot and thinner application and the scent changes to a purely sandalwood fragrance with sweetness provided by a woody fig note. Sandalwood is by itself a very recessive quiet creamy mid toned soft wood smell. Every sandalwood scent I've seen is transformed by addition of a variety of notes to add character. Many sandalwood fragrances have coconut, some have ginger or other spice, and some have rosewood, cedar or other elements to increase the footprint of sandalwood character smell. This one is a very seamless blending of woody green fig and sandalwood. I liked it more the second time I wore it but still can not see a connection to dirty velvet. FIGGY SANDALWOOD!
Is this a nice quality scent? Yes. Is it the end all be all scent? No. That's the issue I have with this juice. I suppose I expected to much. The longevity and projection IMO are lacking. I find that it does smell of quality construction just doesn't have enough umph to get it over the top. For a leather scent, it is nice... if you can find it in your price range, then go for it. Enjoy!
My first bottle of Frapin and... well... it's nothing new IMO. It's almost identical to LaCoste Essential. I mean 90%+ LaCoste. That being said I feel it is much better than LaCoste Essential so it earns a neutral IMO. Glad I didn't pay full price for this.
Not bad and not original. The longevity is ok with no projection. It smells 85 to 90 % like Kenneth Cole Signature on my skin. It gets a neutral due to it not being bad just nothing new. At least I got it for a great price on Ebay ($35 US).
BLUF: This is in regards to the “reorchestrated” version released in 2016…I think – because the fragrance/juice/liquid is now an orange-pinkish color (in my LuckyScent vial) and smells nothing like what the reviews from 2008-2012 describe.
What I smell is unequivocally disappointing: an overdose of heliotropin and ethyl maltol, even more so than L'Homme Ideal (which I can't stand), some cheap, sweet, powdery "tobacco" notes, and an amalgamation of recent masculine designer releases currently sitting on the counter of any given Macy's. It basically smells like someone mixed a cheap knockoff of Back to Black with a cheap knockoff of L’Homme Ideal.
For a brief 10-15 seconds in the opening, there is something like a nod to Salvador Dali Pour Homme underneath it all – a weird grungy patchouli, but it is swept away post-haste, in a torrent of sugary almond pig slop, along with any hope of my enjoying it. The powdery almond tonka slop gets even sloppier as it continues to dry down, eventually leading one of the messiest, uninspired, most piecemeal bases I’ve ever smelled.
The one thing I like about the drydown, relative to the rest of the show, is that the sweetness of the heliotropin has waned a bit. This would be what I consider a "lipstick on a pig" type of situation.
This is a huge miss for me, it's just way to sweet and overtly synthetic for my tastes, not to mention boring. “Insipid” comes to mind. Just another overly sweet tobacco/candy scent.
If this is somebody’s idea of an improvement over the original No. 3, first, I find that hard to believe, and second, if this truly is an improvement, you couldn’t pay me to wear whatever this used to be. Nowhere near neutral territory.
The opening is a delight: whilst the juniper berry is not really top-notch - this is no Baie de Genievre - together with the sage, lily-of-the-valley and the orange blossom this quartet results is a pleasant mélange that is not without an original twist. In the drydown the floral is strengthened by a pleasant and fairly bright rose impression. The base is clearly dominanted by its - at times a bit bland - ambery core, combined with vanilla - not too intense or sweet - and the tolu, which on my skin is neither overly resinous not particularly spicy.
The sillage is moderate, the projection very good and the longevity eleven hours overall; the last hours are very close to my skin.
A lovely spring creation, with attempts of originality resilting in a well crafted creation that is, however, mainly due to the somewhat generic base constituents, less interesting towards the end. In the end: just barely a postive score based on its opening. 3/5.
Fresh bergamot with mandarin to start off with, but soon morphing into a floral heart note set, with geranium and whiffs of oleander setting the tone in the drydown. In the second part of the drydown the amber develops, and a vanilla - well balanced and not to sweet - teams up with a soft patchouli to constitute and restrainedly gourmand-ish base.
I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and ten hours of longevity on my skin.
Whilst a tad unoriginal overall, This spring scent is executed well and performs well. Pleasant. 3/5.
This is odd! My review is for Purple Fig by Vilhelm Parfumerie which was created by perfumer Jerome Epinette. I am putting here because it has the same name and the exact same notes as this Purple Fig here listed as from Bruckner. I think its very strange that two companies could have the same name and notes for a new fragrance at the same time!? So, I will write about Vilhelm Parfumerie's Purple Fig assuming that this is possibly a typo as to perfumer and house?
Purple Fig is an excellent fragrance, with rich dark and cold elements with clearly delineated changes between head notes, heart and base. The opening is a tart purple cassis with prickly green angelica and galbanum note that is amazingly light for such a piercing opening. The floral aspect here smells of lilac and reminds me of Frederic Malle's En Passant which gives the scent a very private, secret garden, pure medicinal quality. The galbanum and plum purple cassis makes quite a contrasting pairing here and the slight aroma of fig enters at about one hour mark as the heart notes creep to the fore. The base of cedar and cypress keeps the apothecary feel going and there is never a sweet floral scent, not a bit, but is very herbal and crisply cut greens then a terpey wood base. I like it very much for the assured change in tone one to another and the fig note is kept dry and just a whisper as all fig notes should be - in my opinion. A fine spring fragrance - possibly even an inspired bit of perfumery from Vilhelm Parfumerie. I am intrigued by the offbeat slightly gothic slant of the ethereal floral, dark green, then purple notes. Cool.
What a beautiful fragrance Cecile Zarokian has resurrected from the fragrance graveyard in this very green and complex totally different version of Green Water. I have a history with Green Water from the 1980's and '90's. I had two bottles back to back of the super green mint juice from the old green plastic bottle. The first one was very green herbal citrus vetiver with a sweet mint note. The second was much bolder on the mint and the green lost its complexity. So it went out of favor and was discontinued but last year Ms. Zarokian was brought in to recreate the magic of the concept of the original. There is absolutely nothing to complain about in this even better than before Green Water. First of all the bottle is fantastic. It's a huge magnetic capped pillar that holds 200 ml. of the new bright green water. Interesting that the bottle looks very much like the Dior Collection Privee bottles - same size, same shape, similar magnetic cap and the vetiver scent in the minted herbal Green Water has the same woody bright green dry vetiver that Dior Privee Vetiver uses. The aroma is green and mint with shades of camphor or menthol. I am sure some of the mint may also come from the herbal mix of basil, tarragon, and caraway. The opening is an agreeable lemon orange that has a dry woody musk second note before settling into bright green vetiver, minty herbs and amber base. Quite an improvement for Green Water and definitely the best version ever. Well done!
This gets a slight thumbs up due to the weak projection and longevity (EDT version). Other than that this is a nice masculine scent, blended well with a slight spicy edge and some sweetness. IMO this will be a good layering scent to add spice to some that are a little too sweet. Worth the price. Enjoy!
Well this isn't anything like I thought it would be. Leans way towards the feminine spectrum and IMO is not unisex at all. My wife loves it so this is now part of her collection. As far as the scent... It's floral And very light. I don't get much in longevity nor projection.
This creation, which I sampled courtesy of a colleague, starts with a bright and cheery citrusy mix of top notes. There is bergamot, a bitter orange and a verbena untertone, although there is a salty tanginess in the background. This whole olfactory potpourri develops into an overall impression with a petit grain quality, and is on my skin refreshing and pleasant overall.
The drydown gradually looses the fresh and zesty characteristics of the opening phase, and, heralded by a nice lavender aroma, makes the turn to the woodsy and greenish side. The wood is somewhat non-specific, retains elements saltiness for a while, adopting vetiver-root-like elements and has whiffs of a soft patchouli added to it.
The sillage is moderate, the projection very good and the longevity nine hours on me.
A pleasant and refreshing summer daytime scent, not too synthethic in its presentation, with a second phase of a more woodsy nature. Try before you buy. 3/5.
As I was walking in Grand Central a waft in the air caught my attention and I started following it. There was a beautiful lady walking in front and my mind started conjuring up images of Sheeba and her palace (or was it Katherine Hepburn) . As I approached her I realized she was not the source. Perhaps the lady in front of her.
So I followed her but again she wasn't the one. I started chasing the scent trail but never found the one. Dejected I went to the donut shop and as I removed my jacket I realized what it must be to be a musk deer. Chasing and seeking pleasure without that has always been within.
I had forgotten about 2 sprays of Boucheron PH vintage in the morning.
The osmanthus is front and center in the initial stages of the fragrance, and there's the interesting contrast between the dry chamomile and fresh lemon, somehow the opening has a sweet fruity tartness to it that's very appealing. The scent gets smokier as it develops, yet I see no smoke or tobacco in the note breakdown (not that it matters anyway). But this ashy drydown reminds me a lot of Rasasi Tobacco Blaze, it's funny I'm the only one picking up the similarity between this and the Rasasi, both have the same fruity opening and ashy drydown, but the Rasasi can be had for 3 times less the price. Nonetheless, this is still a gorgeous perfume in the Middle Eastern style.