Fragrance Reviews from December 2010

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    Vincenzo Ferrara's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Black Aoud by Montale

    Maximum opulence.
    Black Aoud is a rose opulent, arabic, sensual and meditative at the same time.
    At the top notes Black Aoud starts with a powerful shot of oud, this is really an "oud shock"! The oud begins, after about 10 minutes, to bring out a rose beautiful, powerful, strong, pushy and arrogant. A very light and very distant aroma of mandarin adds a bit of brightness to the fragrance. Patchouli makes the scent moist, slightly earthy.
    After about half an hour the oud (slightly softened) and rose coexist wisely and in harmony. Over time, the rose becomes more sensual and enriched by distant hints of labdanum and sandalwood.
    In the dry down, after any hours, begins to emerge the delicate magic of the forest with moss and mysterious oriental woods with patchouli always present. The fragrance becomes woody. The rose still dominates but, in the meantime, has become more bright and sweet.

    Black Aoud is not a very complex fragrance, but its evolution is slow and beautiful. Despite its long evolution, the rose has always the main role. After many hours the rose gradually softens. The base notes (6/7 hours after application) consist of a sweet, gentle, romantic and warm rose: a rose that has lost part of its arrogance and starts to become soft and delicate. The oriental woody notes are always present and fine musks with various arabic resins adds magic to the perfume.

    The sillage? Black Aoud IS a sillage.
    The longevity/lasting power is excellent.
    In conclusion? A perfume powerful, sensual, contemplative. A perfume full of ancient oriental memories, a magic way to arabian dreams, a masterpiece by Pierre Montale.

    Vincenzo F.

    08 December, 2010

    whitemonkey's avatar



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    David Beckham Instinct by Beckham

    One of the best vetivers available at any price. Full stop. (And here's a free tip, kids: pour it over Joop! Homme for a real taste treat!)

    08 December, 2010 (Last Edited: 26 January, 2011)

    tonysoprano100's avatar

    Chile Chile

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    Pure Poison by Christian Dior

    I was in a Starbucks near the San Francisco Parc 55 Hotel. (Union Square Area)

    Was a monday, drinking a latte with my brother Christian.

    2 old ladies....well, not very old, one about 45 , the other 55.

    The girl of 45 was something of Kim Bassinger or Michelle Pfeiffer....very chic, blond and well dressed.

    I smelled and mmmmmmm, what amazing perfume......I asked her what are you wearing? She said Pure Poison.

    In my opinion one of the best women fragance. Its intoxicating and sexy, chic, all.

    Try it.

    Thuabs very up.

    09 December, 2010

    scentsitivity's avatar

    United States United States

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    Fath Pour l'Homme by Jacques Fath

    A woody vanillic amber. A touch sweet, but restrained and elegant. A nice masculine.

    09 December, 2010

    MCTAKE5's avatar

    United States United States

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    Eau Sauvage by Christian Dior

    This is the one cologne for men that I can call beautiful. Throughout the note transitions, Eau Sauvage is ever present, lasting up to 8 hours on my skin and much longer on my shirt collar. Truly a classic that has transcended all the “modern classics” with style and class. Still one of the best colognes on the market.

    09 December, 2010

    foetidus's avatar

    United States United States

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    Hummer by Hummer

    I thought Joel_Cairo’s review was quite clever. I didn’t realize until I tested Hummer myself that the review is also truthful, accurate, and appropriate. Hummer doesn’t seem to know where it’s going. It can’t tell the difference between its base and its heart. It’s just a collection of a few unrelated fresh, synthetic accords. Bummer.

    Originally submitted August 2006

    09 December, 2010

    foetidus's avatar

    United States United States

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    L'Eau D'Issey by Issey Miyake

    L’Eau D’Issey is an ground-breaking fragrance whose uniqueness is that it is transparent and palpable at the same time. It opens with a subtle floral / aquatic accord—quite identifiably floral but with a contra intuitive lack of headiness. It is real and solid in its subtly … Somehow, because of the use of the aquatic accord, the florals are uncharacteristically pure and light—florals as refreshing as citrus—and as refined and well-balanced as any floral accord I have smelled before. As full and real as the florals are, the total sense of the fragrance is aquatic. Judging from the reviews, it responds quite differently on skin type variations: on my skin it is, obviously, very transparently floral. This is a completely delightful fragrance. It is not very similar to L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme, which is probably a good thing, I think.

    Originally submitted 06 April 2007

    09 December, 2010

    MOONB's avatar

    United States United States

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    K de Krizia by Krizia

    Recently I embarked on a Great White Hunt for a fragrance that would suit my mother, who is in her mid 50s, and forever lamenting the discontinuation of the original Fendi. It was an odd journey, as I seemed to forget altogether what my mother actually liked about Fendi - its bitter, dry, leathery, butch qualities, so of the '80s, powerful and unique. I dawdled around, poking at supposed masterpieces like Arpège, Tommy Girl, Beyond Paradise, L'Air du Temps, and Fleur de The Rose Bulgare. Eventually, the folly of it dawned on me, and I knew I had to get technical, not tacky. I had to relocate the classic chypre that Foetidus so aptly names. I needed something that is all aldehydic on top, with dark civet and styrax and unsweetened roses. Something that could start with an utterly dessicated citrus and white floral explosion that smoothly transitions, like a lipstick chameleon, into a smoky mystery. A fragrance so in line with Fendi that one could view it as the scent that inspired the House of Fendi to create their ephemeral "Donna". I needed a serious, classy, and age-appropriate masterpiece.

    I needed K de Krizia.

    09 December, 2010

    PerfumeCollector's avatar

    United States United States

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    Fendi Uomo by Fendi

    How would I define Fendi Uomo? "Quorum in a tuxedo".
    Both strong patchouli/leather scents, but while Quorum is intrusive and with an attitude, Fendi Uomo is gentler, maybe a little more friendly, but still is a ballsbusting macho perfume yelling "I am here" (while wearing silk gloves).
    The bitter Artemisia note in Quorum (which I love) is replaced by Coriander and Angelica in Fendi, not as "sharp" as Quorum giving Fendi a rounder and deeper feel. The heart is much much more complex in Fendi with Jasmine taking a more prominent role in Fendi, and while Quorum is woodier, Fendi is spicier. Then, in both, patchouli takes the reins sitting in this rich leather saddle and would not let go until the cows come home. Quorum's drydown being mossier and Fendi's sweeter, but both highly enjoyable.
    Although they are somewhat different perfumes, they share too many facets that I can not think in one without thinking in the other. I love them both and while Quorum appeals to the brute in me, Fendi appeals to a more sophisticated me.
    This review is for the vintage Fendi (Horizontal clear Window) and not for the reformulated one (Vertical clear window) I think the bad reviews here may refer to the reformulated one.

    09 December, 2010

    MOONB's avatar

    United States United States

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    Une Rose by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

    Une Rose is anything but sanguine, and has a certain je ne sais quoi about it that makes it both daring and darkly alluring. The deep, plummy fruit, combined with a bitter green rose and what smells like a dusty record make for quite the magnificent olfactory treat. For a soliflore, this has a lot of character. It works fine on a man, although on my skin the synthetic rubber/vinyl accord really takes center stage. This scent makes me think of sex, and perhaps that's what Flechier was aiming for. Une Rose is en fuego!

    09 December, 2010

    shamu1's avatar

    United States United States

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    Nautica Blue by Nautica

    I don't like aquatic fragrances, nor do I like fragrances colored blue, but this is a good one. I like it because it's less synthetic smelling than most aquatics, and it exudes an air that is cold and detached, much like the sea itself. I'm impressed that a fragrance marketed as an aquatic actually DOES depict the smell of the ocean, rather than smelling like a really bad body wash for jocks. What I like most about Nautica Blue is that it dries down to a spicy wood smell, which I believe is sandalwood, rather than the usual shampoo drydown.

    Overall, Nautica Blue isn't a scent I would expect to wear often, but it does the aquatic thing better than most and is a well constructed fragrance.

    MY RATING: 7/10

    09 December, 2010

    Grottola's avatar

    United States United States

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    Égoïste / L'Égoïste by Chanel

    Well folks, it seems due time (Winter) to review a fragrance that that I've known since I was a child.

    Egoiste is a men's fragrance that I believe every man with an interest in fragrances should at least try or get to know in his lifetime. I don't necessarily think it's the kind of scent that will "WOW" you on first sniff - although it can be - but I do believe this scent is very easy to get into, and enjoy without qualms. It is unique. It is one of the main reasons Chanel is my favorite house. Unfortunately, though, it is getting harder and harder to find, and is getting lost in the shadow of its younger brother, Platinum Egoiste, which I find funny, because Egoiste is a much better scent. Oh well, such is marketing.

    The scent itself is a slightly sweet, woodsy scent that is oriental in tone. Roses, yes. A bit of cinnamon and nutmeg in there, too. I don't like coriander, generally. Coriander is cilantro, and I don't like it in my food or my fragrances. It works here without a problem. A very comforting dry down leads to a soothing, creamy sandalwood and vanilla base. Are you a fan of Gucci Pour Homme II? Then you'd like this, probably.

    I believe that Egoiste is a very pleasant, comforting scent. It is unique enough that a man can choose it for a signature, and yes, I find it quite masculine despite the sweetness. The only problem I have with it is the inability to find it easier. Oh well. Also, the longevity and sillage are great, as expected. It is discreet, but lasts a while. This creates a warming aura rather than a cloud of powerhouse sillage. So, if you get the chance, please try Egoiste, gentlemen, (and ladies too, if you wish!) this is one of Jacques Polge's high points. One of my all-time, top favorite scents. Best for the cooler weather, and works for formal to casual events.

    09 December, 2010

    cformosa4's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Patchouli 24 by Le Labo

    I love this scent! Great sillage, great longevity but the opening is hard to swallow. The opening smells like you have been camping and have been sitting in the smoke trail of the fire all weekend.
    However, after you let that pass it turn into a beautiful vanillic, smokey, chemically leather... Its not a sweet vanilla, its very dry.

    It smells like you're in an old old old university -- you're sitting in biology class dissecting a frog that has been sitting in chemical formaldehyde... the librarians are right outside the open window burning OLD OLD OLD books.. (That sweet, dry vanilla smell that old books get) -- the smoke from the old vanillic dry books is wafting in the window while you dissect the chemically smelling frog....

    i am going crazy with the imagery with this scent but this one really got to me.. it just reminded me of biology class, the old books in the library and smoke... so that picture just came to me.

    09 December, 2010

    msleslie's avatar

    Australia Australia

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    Quinacridone Violet by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

    Composition as posted on her website:

    Top notes: Cherry Blossom, Lime Peel, Plum, Quince

    Middle notes: Aglaia Flower, Italian Neroli, Osmanthus, Sweet Pea, Violet, Violet Leaf Absolute

    Base notes: Atlas Cedarwood, Cassis Bud, Incense Notes, Musk

    The description on the website: Neon. Shocking. Fantastic.

    09 December, 2010

    Stormy_'s avatar



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    Yacht Man Blue by Myrurgia

    Long lasting and easy on the nose. A nice scent for the price. I have only just purchased it so looking forward to any comments at work this evening.

    09 December, 2010

    nsamadi's avatar



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    Patchouli 24 by Le Labo

    The best fragrance in the Le Labo line, but since many find it difficult to wear or get into it, there isn't many followers of the scent. I consider it to be the cult favorite in the Le Labo line. It's the signature scent for the motorcycle riding, leather jacket wearing, beard stubble bad boy.

    Patchouli 24 is also created by perfumer Annick Menardo, who also developed Bulgari Black. Both scents although not similar in terms of smell, share some similarities, that rubber vanilla combination. I'm thinking Annick Menardo wanted to do this with Bulgari Black, but did not have the budget.

    Patchouli 24 is also a very linear scent, what you spray from the get-go, is what you get in the drydown, and it follows the same unconventional note pyramid of Bulgari Black. The beauty of Patchouli 24 is how well the notes are blended. No one aspect of the scent overpowers the other. Just an equal balanced ratio of leather, smoke, rubber, and vanilla.

    09 December, 2010

    myming's avatar

    United States United States

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    Secrets by Dana

    once again a scent i like and has "staying power" has been discontinued.

    is there somewhere to purchase it ?

    09 December, 2010

    myming's avatar

    United States United States

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    Wrappings by Clinique

    unless you purchase "wrappings" on ebay, in the united states from the end of october until the end of november, you can purchase the "gift packs" from upscale depatment stores.
    it is a very good idea to contact the clinique department in august and ask to be put on the "notification" list.

    i love this scent and purchase three boxes every year.

    09 December, 2010

    Nile_Etland's avatar



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    Jicky by Guerlain

    Every time I wear one of the early classic Guerlain fragrances I am astonished by their beauty and complexity and to me Jicky is a prime example of Aimé Guerlain at his best.

    I am astonished however that there is no mention of lavender in the top- or heart-notes, I get a rush of the lemon/bergamot as soon as I spray this and then a cool lavender note, drying down eventually to a warm old leather.

    Like many of the great fragrances this is not for everyone - for example I myself have never warmed to Chanel#5 - but even if you don't like it you have to accept (as I do with Chanel's best-known fragrance) that it is a great work of art.

    Jicky is unusual. We have forgotten (if we ever knew) that many fragrances of that period were unisex and we get confused by Jicky because it is always to be found with the feminines. Maybe this demarcation between masculine & feminine fragrances should go for good; I have worn Jicky & Mitsouko (another of Guerlain's unisex fragrances)happily for several years, also several of the modern unisex perfumes such as Bulgari Black and Armani Bois d Encens but am also happy wearing rich, sweet florals such as Nahéma and Bulgari pour Femme - the only rule of perfume-buying is try as much as you can and wear only fragrances you truly love.

    Therefore to anyone who is put off by some of the less positive reviews I would say this: try Jicky; you may fall for it at first sniff, you may gradually become fascinated by its strangeness and complexity (as I did) or you may never be comfortable with it at all. Whichever way it gets you, you will have sampled something great.

    09 December, 2010

    Bachatu Man's avatar

    United States United States

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    A*Men Pure Malt by Thierry Mugler

    I was skeptic considering all the hype around the fragrance. In a nutshell, it is an A*Men with a different personality. Is it overrated? A bit too much. Is it a great/nice fragrance? Yes. It has the same composition just not the same notes necessarily. It is more versatile than the original A*Men but not as strong nor long lasting. This is on par with A*Men but it looses some points for longevity.

    I get Cherry on the top, woods (booze I suppose?), and vanilla. For some reason, I get a lot of Vanilla/White musk type of vibe off this one with cherry, especially when not smelling it direct but rather getting it through its projection. When I smell direct, I get a lot boozy type woods and the Cherry. As it dries down the woody notes start to get sweeter but less pronounced. The vanilla starts to die off IMO. It fades down eventually.

    Honestly, when I first smelled this, the top reminded me a bit of Alfred Dunhill Desire -- that is the cherry top and vanilla mix Im referring to, just not as sweet or synthetic I guess. The more the scent developed I just got a nice semi sweet boozy fragrance that smells really pleasant to my nose.

    Pure Malt is really a great addition to the Thierry Mugler A*Men Line. I think its on par with A*Men but they are two different fragrances with two different purposes. I feel Pure Malt is intended to be more refined, a sharp shooter if you will, while A*Men is a bit more of blunt force lush in your face. It all depends on what you're in the mood for. Pure Malt has a better opening and starts better than A*Men, but A*Men wins the dry down hands down and is the stronger finisher.

    09 December, 2010

    Mon-Petit's avatar

    France France

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    La Myrrhe by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    La myrrhe is a splendour, a unique and paradoxal personality, at the same time hot and cold, dark and luminous, acid and sweet, aerial and sticky...something sparkling in the darkness of the night.

    The top notes appear golden, scintillating on a dazzling China's mandarin accord, subtly sweeten by the oriental bitter almond (note that this sharp start can disturb on inapropriate skin chemistry, excessivly acid and ruins the composition... ).

    The nervous departure gets drowsy and let emerge the misty freshness who spreads naturally from the myrrh... The most nocturnal and haunting myrrh note ever seen in a perfume! The balsamic sweetness caracteristic of the resin mingles with woody tones (santal), oriental spices (pimento, star anise,...) and honey.

    The base blossoms on a rich blend of jasmin, amber and musc that's second the mysterious aspect of this nocturnal scent. The ensemble is concordant, no notes exceeds the following.

    A gothic masterpiece, one of the best Lutens.



    09 December, 2010

    wragen22's avatar



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    Gucci Pour Homme II by Gucci

    My absolute favorite. After getting into fragrances for just over a year now, trying many, buying a handful, I would say this is one of those "perfect finds" for me. I'm no expert in being able to spot every note out there, but I do know this that when I put this on, I feel refreshed and then comforted. I recently purchased a seasonal black tea from trader joes, which reminds me of this. So good, even after finishing my cup I want more. This is what this fragrance does for me.
    Now that being said, I would say the only downside to it is that it doesn't project very well. Longevity is great on me, I think do to the fact that my body temperature is usually pretty warm which accentuates the notes. If Gucci came out with an intense version, I would be sold. All seasons, all weather, all situations. Going into the office I have to hold myself back from grabbing this every time for the sake of saving it for my date nights with my wife.

    09 December, 2010

    Indie_Guy's avatar

    United States United States

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    Bulgari pour Homme Soir by Bulgari

    I'm a huge fan of Bulgari Pour Homme and Extreme. Soir is a fantastic continuation of this line. Take a shovel, point in into the grassy earth, give it good kick and turn up some dirt... you look down to see gummi worms crawling through the fresh, clean soil. Clean earth and candy, that's what I get here. I love it.

    09 December, 2010

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    L'Air de Rien by Miller Harris

    I’m astonished that I can tolerate and even appreciate this scent. Looking at the notes, I approached it with trepidation. It starts with a note which, although quite sweet, is interestingly spicy. The scent is luxurious and yet has a quiet restraint at the same time. Animalic and leathery notes from the musk appear. Suddenly the sweetness retreats, and a rather salty-mossy chord is evident. Finally, the drydown is quite powdery due to the musk. This phase starts quite dry but sweetens as some vanilla appears. Not my style, but I admire it.

    09 December, 2010

    foetidus's avatar

    United States United States

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    Attraction by Lancôme

    There is a very sweet element in the floral and green opening—I’m surprised that there are no fruit listed in the pyramid. Possibly what I’m smell is the vanilla and amber rising up from the base. Whatever it is, this sweetness dominates to my nose, and the opening accord lasts quite a long time. Attraction deserves to be called linear. The sweet floral accord itself is quite strong with full-bodied sillage, and I would have guessed that it’s a fragrance from the ‘80s instead of 2003. The middle notes remain floral—perhaps a little less sweet than the opening—but I don’t get any patchouli to cut the sweetness, nor can I separate out the individual notes, not even the iris: I don't find the fragrance's notes very clearly presented. And in the base I don’t get the cedar wood—just amber, vanilla, and perhaps a light musk. It's not a bad fragrance... just rather ordinary.

    09 December, 2010

    shamu1's avatar

    United States United States

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    Clubman Special Reserve by Pinaud

    To hell with Tuscan Leather, Knize Ten or all that other pretentious niche nonsense. You want real leather? Then look no further than the five dollars burning a hole in your pocket.

    That's right - you can get a huge 6 oz. bottle of one of the best leather fragrances money can buy for only $5. I totally agree with Moneysuckle that this may be the best masculine fragrance bargain ever. I'll bet if niche snobs sampled this blindly, they'd guess that it was some $200 fragrance by Profvmvm or some other snotty niche firm. I'm serious here.

    Unlike Knize Ten, which smells like gasoline and moth balls, Special Reserve actually SMELLS LIKE REAL LEATHER. I think another reviewer described it as the smell of a leather baseball glove after it's been oiled, and I think that description nails it. This is dark, smoky leather and it's awesome.

    What I love most about Special Reserve is that it's a pure leather scent, with nothing standing in the way of its projecting its leathery aura. I would go so far as to say that this is a definitive leather scent.

    MY RATING: 9/10

    09 December, 2010

    foetidus's avatar

    United States United States

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    Lalique Le Parfum by Lalique


    Opens rather unspectacularly with a green / bergamot accord. There is nothing wrong with this introduction except that it seems a little too much “been there…” As an admirer of many Lalique fragrances, I was disappointed by the genericness of the opening. The laurel green of the opening is okay… it borders on being synthetic. I do like the fact that the opening is not typically sweet. The floral middle – primarily a pleasant jasmine assisted by a clear heliotrope – is also not exciting but it is more than pleasant enough to be satisfactory: it’s fetching, refined, comfortable, and feminine, but then I’m a easy conquest when it comes to a good jasmine accord. The base is a winner: it’s a feminine sandalwood / vanilla accord that gently presents its unassuming and competent oriental character. Le Parfum does not have strong sillage, but it’s longevity is pretty good.

    Lalique le Parfum presents a more traditional character than its 2005 introduction would indicate, but it is certainly not outdated. It is a little too flat at first, but then continues elegantly and prettily. It is not very unique or challenging, but it does what it does with a noticeable competence, a bit of sophistication, and a solid core of sensuality. Beautiful bottle and I guess that that is to be expected from Lalique.

    09 December, 2010

    ladymorrigan's avatar

    Netherlands Netherlands

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    Intense Tiare by Montale

    this is the first montale i own,
    when i read the two words; intense tiare i know it was made for me, and yes ooh yes i was soo right on! it was love at first sniff this baby has everything i want ,tiare and incredible lastingpower *swooon* i bought this immidiatly
    intense tiare is my #1 exotic scent ^_^

    09 December, 2010 (Last Edited: 22 January, 2011)

    jtd's avatar

    United States United States

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    Rush by Gucci

    There’s nothing I can add to the comments I’ve read about how this smells. Hairspray, lactones, patchouli, non-existent flowers, bubblegum, poppers. All true.

    It’s the feeling, though. There’s not even an attempt to tether this thing to anything actually botanical. Natural and chemical are words I tend not to use, because what do they mean? Nature, as we use it discussing the environment, has no meaning whatsoever when you look at it. And what matter isn’t chemical? That said, Rush’s value is that it is unnatural and chemical. And altogether unapologetic. And all the better for it.

    If this is a signature scent, I pity the people close to the wearer. This is definitively an occasional scent. It is loud, cruisy, intolerant and laughs incessantly. This is the Dionysus of perfume. It’s also monotonous, not in the sense of humdrum, but of hitting one note, and one note only, endlessly. There is very little evolution in time with this one, but why should it be otherwise? Who wants a party to end? All credit to Tania Sanchez for describing this as both large-scale outdoor art and intended for a night out. That’s the best characterization I can imagine for this baby. Ultimately, though, the night-on–the-town analogy gives with one hand and takes with the other. Yes, Rush is the life of the party. Absolutely. We’re all drawn to her when she arrives. But she’s also the sitter. The last one at the party, dancing drink-in-hand by herself while everyone else has left.

    Wonderful.

    09 December, 2010 (Last Edited: 26 January, 2011)

    jtd's avatar

    United States United States

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    parfums*PARFUMS Series 3 Incense: Avignon by Comme des Garçons

    All the talk of the mysterious sense of smell, the visceral sense of smell. The sense of the emotions, therefore with the least association with reason. I really don’t get that. Yes, the sense of smell is discussed incorrectly or at least poorly. We have a strikingly lacking practical vocabulary for how we employ smell and how we use it to create meaning for ourselves. I include myself here. It’s a hole in our collective ability to talk to each other.

    But I do love the associative capacity of the sense of smell. It is specific and evocative, but for me doesn’t have the luggage of weighty emotional cathexis. It’s the small stuff, not the big “Rosebud” moment.

    To Avignon. I smell it and it takes me right back to a very specific moment of my alter-boy youth. It’s the memory of the sensation of crunching through the snow to my parish church in the dark on winter mornings to serve the early daily mass, opening the back door to the church and smelling the lingering scent of the incense we used. That very moment. I loved it as a boy. It’s not the huge and the sweeping. It’s the small and specific. It allows me to remember myself as that young boy.

    09 December, 2010 (Last Edited: 25 March, 2011)

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