Fragrance Reviews from December 2010

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    BayKAT's avatar
    BayKAT
    United States United States

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    Portrait of a Lady by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

    I'm really, really loving this. But I am a huge fan of Caron's Pour Une femme Parfum, and this is very similar. Both are an incense rose fragrances with a patchouli/amber/mush dry down; and both are too beautiful too describe.

    I was so so about the opening, which only lasts a few minutes. It then jumped into a green rose on me, similar to a 60's themed chartreause color. As it transitions to the drydown I get an increasing incense note with a creeping sweetness. OK, I"ve only worn it for four hours now, but as long as the benzoin is held at bay I'll be very happy.

    I have to say this will probably go down as one of my favorite perfumes ever, although it is so similar to Une Femme Parfum that I may not need to buy it.

    14 December, 2010

    firehorse's avatar
    firehorse
    United States United States

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    Lime, Basil & Mandarin by Jo Malone

    I bought it for me, but ended up passing it on to my bf. Too manly for me. It's ok, seems good for a man's office scent.

    14 December, 2010

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    odysseusm
    Canada Canada

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    Kenzo Power by Kenzo

    The opening is quite sweet, plummy and fruity (the bergamot). I don't get any spice, and I don't get any wood. There is a toasted, buttery note from the amber. Basically, this is a sweet and simple amber scent. Its redeeming feature (of sorts) is that it is not heavy. But it is really is not very interesting, either.

    14 December, 2010

    odysseusm's avatar
    odysseusm
    Canada Canada

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    Herrera Aqua by Carolina Herrera

    Fresh, lemony, quite sweet. Synthetic.
    Develops into quite a tiresome lemon-freshness that verges on the obnoxious.
    Gives me a headache.

    14 December, 2010

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    Sunsetspawn
    United States United States

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    Scott McClintock by Jessica McClintock

    Scotty McClintock opens like a combination of pancake syrup and cognac. It's amazingly thick, deep, and rich. Only after a few hours, when it dries down a bit, do you really start to smell individual notes. The citrus and cider don't seem to play a big part in this. The musk, vanilla, and amber hold syrupy court on the sandalwood, and the herbs and spices float and dance above them. These herbs and spices have a floral feel to them, and contrast well with the dark sweetness that lies beneath. Well into the development the floral vibe goes away and just leaves woody pancake syrup.

    14 December, 2010

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    glitteralex
    United States United States

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    XIII La Treizième Heure by Cartier

    This is my favorite of the line thus far, a definitely unisex transparent leather. I always love citrus and leather, as in Hugo Boss' defunct Boss Spirit or Guerlain's Derby. While this is a far lighter and more modern composition, where the leather has a steely birch quality, and the citrus is fresh and tart, I still love the contrast of fresh and lively to dark and brooding. The vanilla makes XIII unisex, as it's just enough to keep the women in the game, but not to drive the men away. There is also some black tea in there, which surprised me because another in the series is a tea based scent. The patchouli is a minor player, and while it contributes to the base, this is in no way a patchouli scent.

    My criticisms are that this is too light, especially for an EdP, and also that it is disproportionately costly for the concentration. Finally, it doesn't make me crazy the way I want my perfume to- it's simply too restrained given the exotic ingredients.

    14 December, 2010

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    glitteralex
    United States United States

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    X L'Heure Folle by Cartier

    This is the sacrificial lamb of the line. Given the enormous popularity of bubble gum themed perfumes, Cartier must have realized that without one this line would not have survived. And so, here it is- a nauseating blend of sticky fruits over a base that looks great on paper but can't stand up to the cloying tutti-frutti that dominates the top and heart. It has a slightly repulsive background note not unlike that in Guerlain's Insolence. At least the ingredients are not as cheap as the composition.

    14 December, 2010

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    Weimar27
    United States United States

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    Féraud Paris by Louis Féraud

    Feraud Luminates with an aura of positivity with one spray let the silky
    mist caress you like rays of sunshine with
    the opening of grapefruit that refreshes
    your senses with the milky feel of heliotrope dries with the sweetness of pink pepper and Delicate cherry Blossoms
    brightened your day, the middle notes dries buttery with white gardenia and
    apricot that smooths your skin The drying down with a base of vanilla with an musky nuances and cream and warmness
    of amber and sandalwood that is dry and arid.

    Feraud is so causual you can just wear
    just about anywhere it has an versatility that is rear in Perfumery.

    14 December, 2010

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    Maximiliani
    United States United States

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    Night Scented Stock by Penhaligon's

    Got a sample for my mother to try for Christmas because she likes or tends to share my like of white florals with a musky touch and this is very nice and distinct, I don't think there's much out there now that smells like this. It captures that dusky, milky and almost chalky undertone flowers like stock, phlox and nicotiana have that separate them from other white florals like jasmine and ylang ylang, gardenia and other uber tropicals. Still sweet though, and kind of cold to a certain point, but when you lean in or go in closer to smell, you do pick up this underlying warmth that is rather surprising, which I supposeis very very classy restrained clove and spices and tonka bean and vanilla, which I guess can bring some pudding or eggnog type imagery, but it's not very heady so its not really a gourmand by any means. It is very "pretty" though and for a man to pull off you need have the right skin type that brings out those spices or compliments the soapy/chalky powder scent that tends to waft. Worth trying I think if you like something that's both traditional and nostaligic yet different in the way they play with notes/white flowers.

    14 December, 2010

    rickbr's avatar
    rickbr
    Brazil Brazil

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    I L'Heure Promise by Cartier

    L`Heure Promise, the fragrance that starts the Cartier collection, is inspired by the trend of green retro fragrances that showed in 2009, with examples of Cristalle Verte and Martin Margiela Untittled. While Margiela went on a more bitter direction, with use of galbanum, and Cristalle Verte modernized the chypre aroma of the original creation, mading it more citrus, lemony and aromatic, L`Heure Promise seems to interpret the tendency on a bucolic direction. It`d be an aroma that fitted like a glove annick goutal line. Mathilde Laurente here creates a grassy, carroty composition. The grass accord is what you smell at first, and seems like the aroma of fresh grass at morning. Then you notice the use of iris in a earthier direction. This iris seems more like orris note, having a carroty smell that completes the grass aroma. This fresh, green accord slowly fades to a musky creamy velvety woody aroma, that seems to last longer on me, although i have already read some complaints of longevity in this one.
    It`s a simple tune of grassy carroty aromas and muskier, creamy woods. It`s a pitty, though, that this line has a high price tag and it`s hard to find. I don`t think that nice fragrances like this should be limited to few people by a high price tag. It end limiting the use of this beautiful morning scent.

    14 December, 2010

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    SirSlarty
    United States United States

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    Silver Shadow Private by Davidoff

    What a nice "improvement" upon the original. Still have the musky, orange amber drydown but the opening and heart of dark spices (and a little arasive) spices really perks up the original Silver Shadow's dullness.

    14 December, 2010

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    karisuma
    United States United States

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    Nautica Classic by Nautica

    One of the most disgusting smells I've ever encountered. Smells like feces.

    14 December, 2010

    rod7elfo's avatar
    rod7elfo


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    Royal English Leather by Creed

    ROYAL ENGLISH LEATHER… THE BIRTHDAY OF CREED.

    its an amazing fragance of history. This is my tribute.

    Royal English Leather is the first fragrance created by Creed, ordered by King George the third in 1781. Creed was the king's glove maker and he scented the king's gloves. The king loved the scented gloves so much he asked Creed to make it a body fragrance.
    The first planet to be discovered was Uranus by William and Caroline Herschel on 13 March 1781. It was discovered by the fact that it showed a disk when viewed through even a fairly low powered telescope. The only other planets which have been discovered are Neptune and Pluto. These were predicted using ingenious mathematical arguments based on Newton's laws of gravitation and then observed near their predicted locations.

    A PICE OF HISTORY BECAUSE…
    Mozart Leaves for Vienna
    In January 1781, Mozart's opera Idomeneo premiered with "considerable success" in Munich. The following March the composer was summoned to Vienna, where his employer, Archbishop Colloredo...
    A FEW BATTLES IN THE YEAR OF ROYAL ENGLISH LEATHER

    1781 Jan 6 Battle Of Jersey
    The Battle of Jersey was technically the last battle fought in the British Islands (coming after the Battle of Culloden in 1745). It was the last attempt by France to invade Jersey milita...
    1781 Jan 7 Battle of Mobile
    The British garrison nearest to Mobile was in West Florida's capital, Pensacola. The commander, General John Campbell, had under his command about 500 men, composed mostly of men from the...
    1781 Jan 17 Battle of Cowpens
    Morgan's strategy worked perfectly. The British drove in successive lines, anticipating victory only to encounter another, stronger line after exerting themselves and suffering casualties...
    1781 Jan 29 Mozart's "Idomeneo" Is First Performed
    Idomeneo, re di Creta ossia Ilia e Idamante (Italian for Idomeneo, King of Crete, or, Ilia and Idamante; usually referred to simply as Idomeneo, K. 366) is an Italian language opera by Wo...
    1781 Feb 1 Battle of Cowan's Ford
    On January 31, Cornwallis began to move his army despite the heavy rain fearing any further delay would cause him to lose his chance of destroying Greene's army. Some six weeks after the ...
    1781 Feb 24 Pyle's Massacre
    The most commonly accepted account of the battle, pieced together from reports from Lee and Captain Joseph Graham, indicates that Lee's deception was purely chance, and that he had origin...
    1781 Feb 25 Battle Of Haw River
    The Battle of Haw River occurred near the Haw River in North Carolina on February 25, 1781, late in the American Revolutionary War. Patriot militia leader Colonel Henry Lee deceived Loyal...
    1781 Mar 1 Articles of Confederation Adopted
    The political push for the colonies to increase cooperation began in the French and Indian Wars in the mid 1750s. The American Revolution in response to lack of elected representation in ...
    1781 Mar 6 Battle Of Wetzell's Mill
    The Battle of Wetzell's Mill (the name may also be spelled Weitzell, Weitzel, Whitesell, or Whitsall) was an American Revolutionary War skirmish fought on March 6, 1781, between detachmen...
    1781 Mar 9
    to 1781 May 8 Battle of Pensacola
    On April 28, siege operations finally got underway. By May 1 they had emplaced a battery of cannons overlooking the Queen's Redoubt, and begun digging trenches toward an even more advanta...
    1781 Mar 15 Battle of Guilford Court House
    The advance guard met near the Quaker New Garden Meeting House. Banastre Tarleton's Light Dragoons were briefly engaged by Light Horse Harry Lee's Dragoons about 4 miles (6 km) from the G...
    1781 Mar 16 Battle of Cape Henry
    The Battle of Cape Henry was naval battle in the American War of Independence which took place near the mouth of Chesapeake Bay on 16 March 1781 between a British squadron led by Vice Adm...
    1781 Apr Skirmish at Waters Creek
    Lord Cornwallis, while on his Peninsula campaign, sent Captain Brown on a foraging mission. This mission brought Brown, and his group of 40 soldiers, up the James River where they landed ...
    1781 Apr 15
    to 1781 Apr 23 Siege Of Fort Watson
    The Siege of Fort Watson was an American Revolutionary War confrontation in South Carolina that began on April 15, 1781 and lasted until April 23, 1781. Continental Army forces under Henr...
    1781 Apr 16 Battle Of Porto Praya
    The Battle of Porto Praya was a naval battle which took place during the American Revolutionary War on 16 April 1781 between a British squadron under Commodore George Johnstone and a Fren...
    1781 Apr 25 Battle Of Blandford
    The Battle of Blanford was a battle during the American War of Independence, that took place near Petersburg, Virginia on 25 April 1781. Roughly 2,300 British under the command of Brigadi...
    1781 Apr 25 Battle of Hobkirk's Hill
    On the morning of April 25, 1781, Rawdon was still under the impression that the Continental army was without its artillery. At approximately 9am he left the security of the Camden fortif...
    1781 Apr 29
    to 1781 Apr 30 Battle of Fort Royal
    In 1762, the English land in the island and take the highest points on the Northern town. With a beautiful view and a solid platform, looking over the defences in order to bomb soldiers a...
    1781 May 8
    to 1781 May 12 Siege Of Fort Motte
    The Siege of Fort Motte was a military operation during the American Revolutionary War. A force of Patriots led by General Francis "Swamp Fox" Marion and Lt. Colonel "Light Horse" Harry L...
    1781 May 22
    to 1781 Jun 6 Siege Of Augusta
    The Siege of Augusta began on May 22, 1781 and was conducted by General Andrew Pickens and Colonel Henry "Light Horse Harry" Lee against British troops occupying the town of Augusta, Geor...
    1781 May 22
    to 1781 Jun 19 Siege Of Ninety-Six
    The Siege of Ninety Six was a siege late in the American Revolutionary War. From May 22 to June 18, 1781, Continental Army Major General Nathanael Greene led 1,000 troops in a siege again...
    1781 Jun 26 Battle of Spencer's Ordinary
    Anthony Wayne, leading the Marquis de Lafayette's van, received word of Simcoe and the Queen's Rangers foraging near Spencer's Ordinary (about six miles north of Williamsburg). On the nig...
    1781 Jul Francisco's Fight
    Francisco's Fight is the name commonly given to a skirmish between Tarleton's Raiders and Peter Francisco during the American Revolutionary War in July 1781. The common version is that...
    1781 Jul 6 Battle of Green Spring
    Lord Cornwallis having failed to defeat the Marquis de Lafayette in the campaign in Virginia, was marching from Williamsburg to position his army at a secure port, Yorktown. Lafayette was...
    1781 Aug 19
    to 1782 Feb 5 Invasion of Minorca
    Work soon began on gun emplacements to besiege St. Philip's Castle, the most important being at La Mola, on the opposite side of the harbor mouth, and at Binisaida, near Georgetown. The B...
    1781 Aug 24 Lochry's Defeat
    On the night of August 18, 1781, Clark and his men floated past the mouth of the Great Miami River, near the present-day border between Ohio and Indiana. Brant's party was hidden on the n...
    1781 Sep 4 El Pueblo De La Reyna De Los Angeles Is Founded
    On September 4, 1781, the eleven men, eleven women, and twenty-two children recruited by Alta California Governor Felipe de Neve founded El Pueblo de la Reyna de Los Angeles (The Town of ...
    1781 Sep 5 Battle of the Chesapeake
    When the British fleet of 19 ships, now under Graves's command, arrived back at the Chesapeake on the morning of September 5, they found 25 French ships at anchor behind Cape Henry. The r...
    1781 Sep 6 Battle of Fort Griswold
    One of the last battles fought during the American Revolutionary War was fought near New London, Connecticut at a small fort called Fort Griswold which was an outpost held by around 164 C...
    1781 Sep 6 Battle Of Groton Heights
    The Battle of Groton Heights was a battle of the American Revolutionary War fought on September 6, 1781 between a small Continental Army force led by William Ledyard and the more numerous...
    1781 Sep 8 Battle of Eutaw Springs
    The Battle of Eutaw Springs was a battle of the American Revolutionary War, the last engagement of the war in the Carolinas. On May 22, 1781, General Nathanael Greene of the Continenta...
    1781 Sep 13 Battle Of Lindley's Mill
    The Battle of Lindley's Mill took place in Alamance County, North Carolina, on September 13, 1781, during the American Revolutionary War. Lindley's Mill stands at what was once a cross...
    1781 Sep 28
    to 1781 Oct 19 Battle of Yorktown
    By October 14, the trenches were within 150 yards (140 m) of redoubts #9 and #10. Washington ordered that all guns within range begin blasting the redoubts in order to weaken them for the...
    1781 Oct 19 General Charles Cornwallis Surrenders To General George Washington At Yorktown
    On October 19, 1781, British General Charles Cornwallis surrendered his army of some 8,000 men to General George Washington at Yorktown, giving up any chance of winning the Revolutionary ...
    1781 Oct 21
    to 1781 Nov 11 Siege of Negapatam
    The Siege of Negapatam was the first offensive military action on the Indian subcontinent following the arrival of news that was had been declared between Great Britain and the Dutch Repu...
    1781 Oct 25 Battle Of Johnstown
    The Battle of Johnstown was fought in Johnstown, New York. It was one of the last battles in the American theatre of the American Revolutionary War, with approximately 1400 engaged at Joh...
    1781 Dec 12 Battle Of Ushant
    The Second Battle of Ushant was a naval battle fought between French and British squadrons near Ushant on 12 December 1781, during the American War of Independence.


    WHO WAS BORN IN THE YEAR OF ROYAL ENGLISH LEATHER?

    Andrés Bello
    Poet 29-Nov-1781 15-Oct-1865 South American intellectual, poet
    Robert Hare
    Chemist 17-Jan-1781 15-May-1858 Hydrostatic blow-pipe and spiritoscope
    René Laënnec
    Doctor 17-Feb-1781 13-Aug-1826 Stethoscope
    Robert Mills
    Architect 12-Aug-1781 3-Mar-1855 Washington Monument
    Siméon-Denis Poisson
    Mathematician 21-Jun-1781 25-Apr-1840 Poisson distribution
    Sir Stamford Raffles
    Government 6-Jul-1781 5-Jul-1826 Founder of Singapore
    George Stephenson
    Engineer 9-Jun-1781 12-Aug-1848 Early railroad builder
    Charles Tufts
    Business 17-Jul-1781 24-Dec-1876 Founder of Tufts University
    John Walker
    Chemist 29-May-1781 1-May-1859 Invented the friction match


    AND IF ITS TRUE THE THEORY THAT AN ARISOCRAT MEMBER OF ROYALTY WAS A KILLER IN XVIII CENTURY, AND THE KING GEORGE forced the entire court to use then REL then… REL was the fragance of JACK THE RIPPER.

    ROYAL ENGLISH LEATHER IS THE ONLY ONE FRAGANCE STILL ON SALE SINCE 1781… SO YOU THINLK THAT ANY OTHER CAN DO THE SAME?

    14 December, 2010

    Bachatu Man's avatar
    Bachatu Man
    United States United States

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    Fahrenheit by Christian Dior

    Just Truth Described this best. What happened to the original. This new version smells soapy, brighter, cleaner, perfumy (sort of feminine) kind of cheap at times and worst of all its cloying!!! I'm very disappointed and personally cannot tolerate the new one.

    Well of course this is in comparison against the original. For those who havent smelled the original and smell this one it might be ok

    either way this is a classic

    14 December, 2010

    qwerty73's avatar
    qwerty73


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    Sycomore (new) by Chanel

    5 STARS!!! I absolutely agree with Luca Turin on this one. Smokey vetiver with woods and spice. No flowers in this juice. Sophisticated indeed.

    14 December, 2010

    bhougland's avatar
    bhougland


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    Cuba Gold by Cuba Paris

    I heard so much about this Le Male alternative that I picked up the variety pack. To test it out I put Le Male on one wrist and Cuba Gold on the other. To be certain, Cuba Gold really attempts to be Le Male. However, the "toned downed' vibe is just another way of say not the same quality, but at 4 dollars for 1.7 oz that is to be expected.

    So why only a neutral review....well, it is because every now and then I got a very sharp bitter scent that made my head spin*(SEE EDIT BELOW). Something in Cuba Gold became cloying, and I almost washed it off my wrist. If you have ever worn Dunhill desire you know the sharp, bitter scent I am talking about....it is horrible when it decides to do a sneak attack.

    EDIT:

    I have worn this cologne twice since this last review and I have not smelled the cloying note again. I think what happend is I got the Cuba Orange (which is horrible) paper too close to my nose and some liquid stayed. I continued to smell Cuba Orange while reviewing Cuba gold. Cuba gold doesn't seem to have the cloying note like I first thought.

    This cologne does have a purpose over that of JPG le male, and that is if you are going to be stuck on a bus, conference, church, etc. I made the mistake of using the real thing instead of Cuba Gold when I went to church with my wife's family on Christmas eve. The seats were so close and it was so hot in the church that Le Male start to project uncontrollably. I was so uncomfortable it became embarrasing, and I only put one spray on the chest!. I wish I had used Cuba Gold (1/5 of the projection and 1/5 of the lasting power). At the price you can't do much better, but for a bit more you could buy a good scent off of Ebay.

    14 December, 2010 (Last Edited: 26 December, 2010)

    jtd's avatar
    jtd
    United States United States

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    Ça Sent Beau by Kenzo

    This is technically a fruity-floral. It is a plummy orange/tangerine draped with tuberose and orange blossom. But I suppose this is a floriental. I mean it’s white flowers resting on a comfortable amber. And I reckon it’s a fougère since it seems to have a dark, nutty coumarin base. Chypre? Yeah, there’s bergamot and oakmoss.

    I’m not even joking. What the hell is this? Fruit? No question. Perhaps orange, more likely tangerine. It’s definitely floral. A bit of steamy orange blossom and a bucket of green, creamy tuberose. Amber for days (literally) spiked with patchouli. And the darkness---coumarin? oakmoss? Mix it up with a good measure of musk and you wind up with a languid slurry of a perfume. In tone, Ça Sent Beau is like a grand queen about 2 martinis into holding court with a gathering audience. A little tipsy, talking fast, one opinion to the next. An increasing flourish and emphasis that don’t quite cover up the slurred speech. Mesmerizing.

    And while this is a cousin to Prescriptives Calyx---tasty fruity chypre--- Ça Sent Beau replaces the straight-forward oakmoss base with a narcotic cough syrup base made of what seems like oakmoss and coumarin.

    CSB’s components are not so much potent as heavy, but the balance is perfect. Rather than calibrate the heavy with lighter elements, the cough syrup base adds some shadow to the density and makes it feel sultry.

    I can think of four definitively syrupy perfumes that I like. Serge Lutens’s Cedre (mothball syrup.) Lutens's Arabie (spice cabinet syrup.) Badgley Mischka’s Badgley Mischka (simple syrup.) And Ça Sent Beau. I think cough syrup is my favorite.

    14 December, 2010 (Last Edited: 31st December, 2010)

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    Grottola
    United States United States

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    Diesel Zero Plus by Diesel

    Good lord - a spice rack bomb! Diesel Zero Plus Masculine combines clove, cinnamon, nutmeg, and some heavy florals for a powdery sneezer of a fragrance. A little vanilla to sweeten things up. Stays this way pretty much the whole way thru - although I do notice the rose a bit as it dries down some more. Lasts a while for me, don't overspray, and don't wear it in the heat! I find it just "okay". Can be had for very cheap, even though discontinued, can still be found in America at TJ Maxx/Marshall's outlets.

    14 December, 2010 (Last Edited: 07 January, 2011)

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    Grottola
    United States United States

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    Grey Flannel by Geoffrey Beene

    Grey Flannel is known for that big ol' stinky violet note, right from the get-go. Faint citrus that is overshadowed by a banana-like violet note over oakmoss that gives off the scent of cut grass. And really, the violet and oakmoss last the whole way thru - great longevity on me. I can see why this is basically a love it or hate it fragrance, but I enjoy it.

    14 December, 2010 (Last Edited: 10th February, 2011)

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    Oslo-Fjord
    Norway Norway

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    Bois du Portugal by Creed

    Nice fragrance from Creed. Very rich and spicy. High quality, It has a luxurious aura. Smells very mature. I can`t imagine wearing this without a iron white shirt and dress-jacket. Perfect for winter, and formal occasions. Suits men with age above 35. Longevity is great, but sillage isn`t so good some claim. I will recommend all fragrance-fans to try this masculine legend at least once.

    14 December, 2010 (Last Edited: 01st March, 2011)

    firehorse's avatar
    firehorse
    United States United States

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    Ormonde Woman by Ormonde Jayne

    I ordered it from their website about 3 weeks ago after reading reviews and sampling it first.

    I'm new to fragrances so I don't have the descriptive language down, but I can say this: its a fairly tame and comforting scent. I read other reviews from perfume blogs that made it sound all witchy and strange and exotic in a foresty way, - yet I get none of that.

    To my untrained nose, I get a light woodsy marshmellow smell with slight pepper thing going on that all together is kind of powdery.

    ETA: I've been wearing it often over the past month and a half and it has an interesting way of growing stronger throughout the day. It starts off comforting and kind of quiet, and a few hours later its grown stronger and louder. Lasts about 18 hours.

    14 December, 2010 (Last Edited: 04 March, 2011)

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    LiveJazz
    United States United States

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    Kelly Calèche by Hermès

    I completely agree with Diamondflame's review of Kelly Caleche: this should not be considered a floral leather with greens. It is more of delicate, sheer floral, which happens to contain a combination of floral and green notes that give the illusion of something a little waxy and leathery. I do enjoy this strange rendition of leather, which takes some time to appear.

    However, the overall synthetic/handsoapy feel of the scent keeps my enthusiasm at bay, and I sort of wonder how many aromachemicals this shares with Un Jardin Apres La Mousson, which I do not like at all.

    14 December, 2010 (Last Edited: 21st March, 2011)

    jtd's avatar
    jtd
    United States United States

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    Beyond Paradise by Estée Lauder

    Beyond Paradise is as alien as Mugler’s Angel, if not more. But EL hides its freak in a way that Mugler wouldn’t consider. The chief accord in Angel is synthetic in that it resembles food, but is poisonous. BP gives you a fetching nosegay, but one made of shards of glass, sugar-coated with laundry powder. Angel was an utterly novel concept when it was released, with an accord that leaned on the jarring side of juxtaposition and therefore read as synthetic. BP is so like so many things you’ve smelled before, most of them scented, functional commercial products. But it's teased together into what some would call an idealized flower. I’d call it a floral least common denominator. Our noses learn over the years of sniffing cleaning products and the like to equate so-called “floral” with flowers. BP relies on this implied language of commercial scent, whispers a translation to us in press-release English and we believe that this scent is based on the Utopia Flower that grows Somewhere or other.

    OK, that ‘s the jaded view of corporate perfumery. As to the actual creation of this scent, it is impeccably composed, and I can’t imagine the work that went into it. But again, least common denominator. BP is a bit like a predictable but popular Broadway show. It speaks in a theatrical language that we’re all guaranteed to understand and doesn’t advance the state of the art an inch. We talk of perfumery as art, and we should. BP is entertainment, but is it art?

    14 December, 2010 (Last Edited: 30th September, 2011)

    jtd's avatar
    jtd
    United States United States

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    Paco Rabanne Pour Homme by Paco Rabanne

    I grew up in the 1970s (born 1964) in New England and I remember this one. I do not remember being aware of cologne or perfume in general, but I remember PRpH vividly. I liked it, it was spooky-ubiquitous and there was nothing else like it. I remember it as pine-like.

    When I smell it now I get the pine reference, but now I see it as the green convergence of rosemary, clary sage, laurel and lavender. The pine ‘snap’, the coolness, comes from tarragon and clove. This is a wonderful fougère. It is soapy, mossy, resinous and barbershoppy all in one. It isn’t terribly complex and it doesn’t show much evolution over time, but it’s wonderfully breezy in a way few scents then or now are.

    I understand that PRpH was eventually overshadowed by Azzaro pour Homme, the next king of the hill fougère. ApH is more sophisticated (although even louder) and notable more complex. Still complexity isn’t necessarily a virtue in a fougère. Also, I don’t think ApH would cover the reek of weed quite so well. (A classic use of 70s cologne.) PRpH is less like the Azzaro fougère than it is two that came later: Caron’s Troisièmme Homme and YSL’s Rive Gauche pour Homme. By comparison the Azzaro seems baroque and a bit busy in its evolution on the skin.

    I can’t un-stick PR from the 1970s, but if you don’t have that reference, how would it strike you at first sniff? If you knew fougères from, say, Cool Water forward, what would you make of this? I wonder.

    14 December, 2010 (Last Edited: 03 May, 2012)

    Mario-K's avatar
    Mario-K
    Poland Poland

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    Apparition Homme by Ungaro

    Maybe it's not something new, but it's really nice summer scent with very good longevity on my skin. I like middle and base notes. It's delightfully balanced fragrance.

    15 December, 2010

    shamu1's avatar
    shamu1
    United States United States

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    Cannabis Rose by Fresh

    This is another amateurish, do-it-yourself scent by Fresh, like all of their fragrances I've sampled. Yes, there's plenty of rose in this, with patchouli in the base, but nothing else I can detect. If I wanted just rose and patchouli, I'd just buy vials of rose and patchouli essential oils and layer them. Cannabis Rose just smells like two scents sitting next to one another, with no real blending. It doesn't smell terrible, but I can't help but think that any moron could have composed this.

    Perfumery is an art, and the best perfumes are those in which the individual notes work together with one another, acheiving perfect balance. Apparently Fresh doesn't understand this.

    MY RATING: 4/10

    15 December, 2010

    nsamadi's avatar
    nsamadi


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    Muscs Koublaï Khän by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    I find Muscs Koublai Khan brilliant in terms of concept. It's one of the most interesting perfumes I've smelt. I owned it for a short period of time, where I mostly wore it at home, lodging on my couch reading a book. It's strangely comforting in a way. It smells like sweaty hot skin. Like a lovers embrace.

    As much as I loved it, I didn't think it was a wearable perfume, more a concept smell. You'd just spray it now and then on your wrist to smell and enjoy. I couldn't find an occasion to wear it. For the most part, my bottle just lay there collecting dust, until I sold it. The only time I'd consider wearing this is right before a romp, but who wants to smell like they just had sex right before they have sex?

    15 December, 2010

    odysseusm's avatar
    odysseusm
    Canada Canada

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    Puma Man by Puma

    GOSH what a surprise! A sweet, fresh, young-oriented scent! Well I've never imagined I would see such a thing. Simple, smells a bit like freshly-picked carrots from the garden with some laundry detergent tossed in.

    15 December, 2010

    Sunsetspawn's avatar
    Sunsetspawn
    United States United States

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    Tiffany for Men by Tiffany

    I feel like I'm going crazy. Tiffany has 1984ed this fragrance. Any evidence that a reformulation has taken place is disappearing. This past summer there were lots of ebay auctions for half used Tiffany bottles with an amber juice. Now I can't even find a picture of those older bottles.

    Anyway, the current formulation is good, but excessively powdery. It's so powdery that I always think twice before I wear it. I just associate powdery smells with grandparents.

    So, my review would be to take a really good review, say, that of mrclmind, and just add a heapin' helpin' of powder to it. It's a shame too, because this wasn't nearly as (if at all) powdery before the reformulation.

    Something to consider is that all noses are different, and my sensitivity to the powdery smell could just be unique to me. I have a theory that oakmoss's replacement is the culprit, because many reformulations bother me.

    Not to worry though, as all reading this need just go into Tiffany's and ask for a sample (they're good about it), or just spray yourself with the tester

    15 December, 2010

    odysseusm's avatar
    odysseusm
    Canada Canada

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    RSVP by Kenneth Cole

    Very sweet. Metallic. Aluminum foil with an old cherry lifesaver on it. Synthetic, shallow.

    15 December, 2010

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