Fragrance Reviews from May 2010

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    ComDiva's avatar

    United States United States

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    L'Eau de Tarocco by Diptyque

    On my skin, L'Eau de Tarocco is one majorly happy fragrance. Deliciously sparkly blood orange, with anchoring wood and zingy saffron and cinnamon notes underneath. YAY! And bravo.

    01st May, 2010

    kewart's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Armani Attitude by Giorgio Armani

    I love to smell this on my husband. It is a warm, spicy, gourmandy scent that
    is great to snuggle up to. Very well-blended and all the notes seem to mesh.
    I actually rather like the bottle!

    01st May, 2010

    Caltha's avatar

    Sweden Sweden

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    Calypso by Robert Piguet

    A classic chypre/green floral: bitingly green (galbanum and oakmoss, I'm sure), spicy, dry, slightly musty, with subtly animalic basenotes and no sweetness. I hope it'll be reissued!

    01st May, 2010

    Caltha's avatar

    Sweden Sweden

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    Gardenia by Penhaligon's

    It's funny, there seems to be something about the composition of gardenia perfumes that creates accidental, naturalistic fruit notes because I got unripe peach from Un Matin d'Orage and I get juicy, ripe, freshly cut Conference pear from the topnotes of this one. I'm not a big fan of fruit notes as they're often too sweet and synthetic, but these "accidental" fruit notes I enjoy.There's a sharper, less pleasant note besides the pear though, and after a little while the fresh pear fades and the scent turns more generically gourmandy - something like a combination of marzipan, anise, booze and bitter almond. Looking at the official notes, where did that come from? Eventually, though, the scent turns more floral as expected: a creamy/powdery white floral that might plausibly be gardenia if you know it's supposed to be but which is abstractly artificial like the kind of floral fragrance you get in lotions.

    01st May, 2010

    Caltha's avatar

    Sweden Sweden

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    Amaranthine by Penhaligon's

    It might be worth a try if you're a big fan of tropical fragrances, which I'm not. I think it's unpleasantly sickly sweet and milky in a stale way. It smells like some insipid, milk-based children's dessert with banana, coconut and some (fake) vanilla. That needn't be so bad, but the structure of the fragrance is like milk pudding too: dense and smooth with no air between the notes and no refreshingly bright notes at all, just a muddle of similar frequencies.

    01st May, 2010

    cheryl's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Bleu by Paul & Joe

    I tested this fragrance about a year ago and found I was haunted by it. I tested it a few more times, not sure. Then I finally brought home the bottle. I like the Coriander, Cardamon, and Ylang Ylang. This lasts and lasts. The whole spicy "mess" sits on a slightly airy/slightly oud-y base. It's a delcious swirl of comfort...but I find the modern airiness a bit unsettling. I'll be honest and admit the very first perfume I bought for myself 20 years ago was indeed Shalimar. I feel this needs to go one shade or two darker to be truly magnetic. It's somewhat cheerful! I find in effect it reminds me of Kenzo Flower Oriental (violet and oud).

    01st May, 2010

    jrd4t's avatar

    United States United States

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    Armani Privé Cuir Améthyste by Giorgio Armani

    Gorgeous mix of leather, violets, and a touch of fruit in the top. While it seems that mix isn't working for some folks who have reviewed it here, it does work on me. The base is warmed up a touch with what I'm guessing is the benzoin. It has a synthetic feel to it, but it's a nice thing in this one. It's also quite unique - the only thing I've come across that smells similar is the new Marc Buxton Hot Leather. Great longevity too.

    01st May, 2010

    Sugandaraja's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Acaciosa by Caron

    On my skin, at least, Acaciosa is a beautiful flower that emerges from a homely bud. The top notes are rather acidic, aldehydic, waxy, and little stagnant in a musty, fruity way, akin to candied peel but much less sweet. The pineapple here is preserved, rather than fresh.

    That this is a largely floral composition isn't immediately apparent, and in fact it takes a good hour on my skin before the richly floral heart emerges in all its glory. Jasmine and orange flower take the lead here, rose more of a background player, all suspended in a dusky, resinous amber accord. Rather than something intense and tropical, as white floral accords are liable to be, Acaciosa is mellow and golden, a poem of autumnal flowers just beginning to fade, tinted by just the faintest hint of animal warmth.

    Though the sillage is comparatively subtle for a parfum, this lasts and lasts, the flowers gradually fading out a day later to leave a soft vanillic amber.

    Acasiosa is definitely a hidden gem among the urn parfums. I don't know what it was before the current string of reformulations, but it's still unique among the panoply of florals out there.

    01st May, 2010

    exbrit68's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Eau Sauvage by Christian Dior

    I bought this one because of its reputation as a "classic". I regret the purchase.

    While the initial lemon smell is very classy, the entire scent vanishes (on my skin) after about 10 minutes. No staying power whatsoever.

    I paid $85 for this and would have gotten a much better deal buying Paul Smith Story (another nice but short-lived citrus) for half that price.

    However, If you have very oily skin, more suitable to retaining weak, fleeting citrus scents such as Eau Sauvage, then please enjoy it gratefully.

    01st May, 2010

    exbrit68's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Paul Smith Man by Paul Smith

    Let me begin by saying that I am a huge fan of Paul Smith London and Extreme. Paul Smith Story would have been included also here had it not been for its tragic lack of longevity ....

    However ... Paul Smith Man is just plain ghastly. Honestly, it is by far the worst scent from a reputable house that I can ever remember trying. If one can imagine bottling the smell of acrid hairspray applied to 3 day old sweaty, unwashed hair, you would capture the essence of this vile offering. It is so bad that I actually repelled several women while sitting in my university class the other day. They PHYSICALLY moved away from me. Talk about humiliating. And I'm one who normally wears Creed much of the time!

    Someone else reviewing this said that Paul Smith Man reminded them of the smell of "ass". That comment is not far wrong.

    I bought this blind due to my love of the other Paul Smith scents. I beg you, TRY this before buying. In my opinion, it is horrible.

    01st May, 2010

    30 Roses's avatar

    United States United States

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    Miel & Citron / Honey & Lemon by L'Occitane

    I find the Shimmering limited edition of this scent to be lighter on the vanilla and more citrusy and refreshing. The lemon doesn't last long, but the simple honey note goes on and on. Very nice!

    01st May, 2010

    SirSlarty's avatar

    United States United States

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    MCM 24 Morning by MCM

    MCM Morning is a citrusy, sweet fougere. The fern or green note here smells like geranium and is very heavy. It comes in and out along with herbs (coriander?) from the woodsy, musky base. Good sillage and longevity.

    01st May, 2010

    Bigsly's avatar

    United States United States

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    Nu Eau de Parfum by Yves Saint Laurent

    I can see the comparison to Oscar Pour Lui, but it's more like the new formulation of it, which is more "compressed," whereas the original formulation had more "space" between the notes. One difference is that OPL has a more earthy quality, whereas Nu EdP feels lighter. However, I can understand why some think it smells synthetic or medicinal. I'm not sure if it was meant to smell this way, or if this was the best they could do to achieve a certain kind of desired effect. You might have to give yourself time to grow accustomed to the scent, which of course some people just don't want to do (as is their right). It has a kind of internal dynamism, but otherwise doesn't change much for hours. One spray to the chest lasts me for a dozen hours or more, and the sillage is just right. Because it is a bit of an odd smell, not as "natural" as OPL, I only wear this one every two or three months at most, but I do enjoy it most of the time.

    01st May, 2010

    LaNose's avatar

    United States United States

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    Eau Sauvage by Christian Dior

    I returned to Eau Sauvage this spring and I like it even more than I remember liking as a youth. When I last wore it, in the 80's, I believe my olfactory bulbs were being tested by some of the more "robust" fragances of that time; I didn't fall out of love with Eau Sauvage, I just came to feel it wasn't giving me enough bang for my buck.

    A couple of decades later, my (La) Nose seems to crave something less in your face (or is it nose?) and prefer a fragrance that's more laid back and uncomplicated; this frangrance does the trick for me...again.

    While some of us are turned off by the so-called "Pledge" note at the beginning, that's never bothered me; it lasts a minute and what follows is sheer citrus magic.( I always know that any fragrance is unattractive in that initial "Big Bang" moment). Eau Suavage is the richest citrus I know because, like a faceted jewel, is has many sides: some herbacious; some rind; some spice, some roots. They meld and mingle throughout the course of the day and much to my suprise, lasts a good 18 hours on me.

    I think it always did last, but with the advent of the 70's and 80's high decible fragrances, I lost touch with gentle dry downs.

    This fragrance can be worn by both genders, day or night. I think Eau Sauvage puts on its most appealing graces during the warmer months.

    01st May, 2010

    bbBD's avatar

    United States United States

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    Eau de Givenchy by Givenchy

    I purchased a mini of the vintage-formula Eau de Givenchy a few years back and never gave it much thought. On first sampling it seemed to fall a little short - not quite pungent enough to be a proper citrus cologne, not as textured as a chypre, and a tad too fruity to be 'green' scent. I came across this mini a few weeks ago and much to my surprise I greatly enjoyed the sampling. With a more sophisticated nose I can now see that what I once interpreted as 'not quite' is actually restraint and balance. Eau de Givenchy manages to straddle being a citrus/green/floral very well without any one component dominating. The slightest hint of fruity notes adds the right amount of sweetness without getting close to ditzy territory.

    This is a simple summer-type scent so don't expect a master work of perfumery, but for what it is Eau de Givenchy is excellent. A couple weeks of careful watching on eBay yielded a 60ml vintage bottle for under $10, and even if you're not so patient vintage 100ml bottles can be plucked for around $30. Do not bother with the Mythical re-issue. Like the other re-issues (Vetyver excepted) it doesn't come close to the original.

    Thumbs UP.

    01st May, 2010

    epicurean's avatar

    United States United States

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    Bulgari Black by Bulgari

    Really, really nice. Hot and sweaty, but at the same time high-class and stylish. Ideal on a warm, or even steamy hot summer evening; the scent simply glows.
    I don't know about you but I find this one a first-rate masculine, but then again who cares what it's labelled as; it's just got to match one's personality.

    01st May, 2010

    epicurean's avatar

    United States United States

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    S-ex by S-Perfume

    Disregard any connotations of sex per se, and simply enjoy a leather scent done in the light, vibrant mode. Think intense light in an all-glass penthouse full of white leather furniture. The leather is softened with a soapy musk and with some kind of sweet floral note. It's definitely unisex, just on the "safe" side of what I feel comfortable with. The leather note predominates, but it is bright enough to make it a great warm-weather scent. Aquatic? Don't know. There's definitely a salty note in there, so if that qualifies as aquatic, fine. Calone? Not sure about that. Berries, yes, but not sickeningly sweetly so. Think of the blackberry note in the exquisite "Baies" candle by Diptyque, which was meant to emulate the scent generated by pruning blackberry bushes, the green of the freshly cut branches mixing with the tart sweetness of the blackberry juice.
    Definitely one of the rare pleasant summer scents; the other kind are far too numerous.

    01st May, 2010 (Last Edited: 13 June, 2010)

    tonileefiore's avatar

    United States United States

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    Cardinal by Heeley

    I've been trolling around looking to expand my usual fragrance wardrobe a bit. Realized I like incense fragrances but OMG. Heeley Cardinal is nice enough (I guess) but just not for me!

    Frankincense, myrhh, labdanum, amber (or cedar)...church!

    Liturgical and church-y...this is the truest Roman Catholic Holy High Mass or funeral scent I have ever smelled. Somerville Metro Man summed this one up..."swinging censor" says it all!

    I LOVE the incense that radiates from the censor and I love the smell inside of most Catholic and Orthodox churches, I really do. But I do not think I want to walk around all day smelling the way I did upon applying Heeley Cardinal. Something about it just seems too weird and a bit too odd for my tastes.

    01st May, 2010

    tonileefiore's avatar

    United States United States

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    Olibanum by Profumum

    I just wrote a review on another incense fragrance I recently tried, as I am trying to expand my fragrance wardrobe beyond my usual animalic-woodsy-resinous-spicy-dirty scents. I actually mixed up some of the information about Olibanum (like pricing) in with the other review (Biehls MB03) and I think that about sums it up for me. Olibanum is a nice enough scent but given all the hype and the hefty price tag, I imagine I was expecting something a lot more exotic, outstanding and original than what came out of the bottle.

    Like Biehls MB03, which I actually liked more than Olibanum, this fragrance is very nice but something didn't sit quite right on me...literally. To me, Olibanum didn't project enough of ANY scent, literally...and perhaps that is the allure.

    Olibanum is smoky...but very faint; leathery...but mild; church-y incense but fleeting (not good sillage...this one wears close to the skin; not great staying power). Floral..a bit; powdery...no. Spicy...yes. The list goes on and on. The dry down smelled way too burnt for me (beyond smoky), which I did not like at all...almost smelled like freshly placed hot road tar.

    To sum it up, Olibanum left me feeling very confused :0(

    This is a nice fragrance but for the price (I actually quoted Biehl MB03 @ $265 per 3.3 ml, which is the price for Olibanum...MB03 is more like $185 per 3.3 ml), this fragrance didn't quite hit the mark. I think there are equally nice fragrances that are more affordable...some that aren't quite as confusing. Also, Olibanum made my eyes and nose runny...not so sure what that is all about :0(

    01st May, 2010

    kanasta's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Aromatics Elixir by Clinique

    Strong, harsh, nauseating. I was actually shocked when I smelt it as I couldn't believe Clinique would sell something so horrid. I had a free sample which I did save just in case I ever needed some kind of nuclear powered scent to cover up something else that smelt even worse. It came in very handy a year later when a tom cat peed all over the carpet; this perfume was the only thing that could cover up the scent and was (just) the lesser of two evils.

    01st May, 2010

    Diamondflame's avatar

    Singapore Singapore

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    Vanille Patchouli by Molinard


    Nothing particularly complex, just a competent blend of patchouli and vanilla. Fans of patchouli would probably favor the minty earthy opening but after about 10 minutes it's mostly vanilla, softly sweet and somewhat creamy. But looking for the patch is probably half the fun...!

    01st May, 2010

    Diamondflame's avatar

    Singapore Singapore

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    3 Fleurs by Parfum d'Empire

    Given the moniker, 3 FLEURS invites you to identify the 3 flowers from the get go. I actually identified the rose first and then the jasmine but the tuberose got me a little stumped - it is less leathery and animalic than what I was used to. Even the indoles are tastefully presented.

    Vibert is right on the money with his review. This is a beautiful green floral which can get rather perfumey with other than a light application. But its intensely green yet floral profile would make it intriguing on a man. And by 'intrigue', I don't mean the question: "Is he gay?"

    01st May, 2010

    baldheadjim's avatar

    United States United States

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    Vintage by John Varvatos

    Finally a spicy scent that works well with my skin. The jasmine/patchouli/vanilla-ish scent does a wonder job translating the sweet/spicy top notes into the masculine leathery base notes.

    01st May, 2010

    baldheadjim's avatar

    United States United States

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    Burberry London for Men by Burberry

    This scent was great from the initial blast through dry down and into the base notes. Unfortunately it faded just as fast. On the plus, it never failed at gaining a complement as long as a lady was around within the first 1.5 - 2 hours.

    01st May, 2010

    NillaGoon's avatar

    United States United States

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    Red Aoud by Montale

    Yet another winner from the big box of Montale oud fragrances. It's true that many of them smell basically similar (with a few exceptions), but I kind of like that. I wouldn't/won't actually BUY more than one or two, but I'm enjoying the process of making fine distinctions through sampling.

    Red Aoud is distinct enough from the rest of the pack that it's worth putting on your sample list if you're exploring the Montale space. It's distinctly gourmand, which is not true of any of the others in the oud line that I've tried so far.

    This one is based on the standard Montale oud accord. It's got some rose. I also get lots of chocolate and vanilla and a general powderiness that's unusual in this line. I'm afraid I can't perceive the saffron and pepper that others have mentioned.

    I'm not a fan of the gourmands in general, but that's largely because they're all so frickin' sweet. This one is not, and the chocolate is really quite delicious. The only thing that keeps me from endorsing this wholeheartedly is the powderiness, which isn't to my personal taste. Nevertheless, this is a winner.

    01st May, 2010

    m.francisco's avatar

    United States United States

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    Marc Jacobs for Men by Marc Jacobs

    This lasted less than an hour on my skin. On paper, it smells pleasant, green, and the fig is a nice addition.

    On my skin, this fades immediately and all that's left is a trace of soft green notes. It's not bad, but as far as longevity and sillage are concerned, this is terrible.

    01st May, 2010

    3nines's avatar

    United States United States

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    Lauren by Ralph Lauren

    Been my favorite for years, i couldn't do without it, its a classic, not over powering, just right.

    01st May, 2010

    DavidBond007's avatar

    United States United States

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    Jasmin Impératrice Eugénie by Creed

    This is the sexiest fragrance I have ever smelled for a lady. Nuff said.

    01st May, 2010 (Last Edited: 20th May, 2010)

    DavidBond007's avatar

    United States United States

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    Bois de Cédrat by Creed

    Interesting mixture with bois du portugal and citrus bigarrade in my opinion. Not bad but I will not buy it.

    01st May, 2010 (Last Edited: 20th May, 2010)

    DavidBond007's avatar

    United States United States

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    Citrus Bigarrade by Creed

    I am not feeling the neroli in this fragrance. It smells too perfumey for me, it would smell fine on a lady but I wouldn't wear it.

    01st May, 2010 (Last Edited: 20th May, 2010)

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