Fragrance Reviews from May 2010

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    ComDiva's avatar

    United States United States

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    Defy Gravity by Wicked

    Okay for a commercial fragrance, but typical.

    08 May, 2010

    zztopp's avatar

    United States United States

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    Eau du Coq by Guerlain

    Notes:
    Top: Orange, Bergamot, Neroli, Lemon
    Middle: Patchouli, Lavender, Jasmine
    Base: Oakmoss, Sandalwood

    Part of the very fine Guerlain Eaux line, Eau de Coq is Aime Guerlains homage to the EDC type of refreshing/light fragrances. Classified as a citrus aromatic, its notes structure is a classic chypre formula, albeit rendered through an EDC prism. Imagine all the typical chypre ingredients screened through a a heavy EDC filter - lighter and faint, refreshing enough to bath in. Opening with a quality citrus smorgasboard which features a sharp neroli, tart lemon and a full bodied bergamot, Coq delights and then ushers the senses to a watered down yet sweet-floral jasmin heart with a muted lavender background. At this point the impression is of a pleasant citrus-floral accord, sharp-tart citrus softened with a floral note. I don't detect anything animalic throughout the duration of Coq...there is a very tinny earthy note of sorts which I assume is the patchouli, but this sheer citrus-floral accord persists for a couple of hours before finishing to an ephemeral oakmoss/woods drydown. If may take some effort to discern the coherent 3-tier chypre structure of this fragrance, but it is there. Refreshing and high quality, I understand the royalty of the past used to bath in it - unfortunately Guerlain has decided to maintain that false sense of exclusivity by keeping this out of the common mans reach by artificially restricting its distribution. Oh ye common soldier, ye can have my Shalimar but don't dare touch my Coq..

    Rating: 8.75/10.0

    08 May, 2010

    cheryl's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Chance by Chanel

    A SA gave me a sample of this, though I told her I did not like it. But then I thought "Is that true? Do I actually know what it smells like?" So it's on my wrist. Yes..I have smelled this dozens of times on passing strangers. I don't detect a single note that this is supposed to have. I smell a cheap fruity mess with a sledge hammer of breeziness. I detect a Chanel signature...that almost smells classy..an element of somethingness in there...but this is a relentless assault that is mainly shampoo-chemical. Unpleasant. Tenacious. If I say "gives perfume a bad name", am I being too mean?

    08 May, 2010

    cheryl's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Champaca by Ormonde Jayne

    What Vibert said. I am wearing this on one wrist, and Chanel Chance on the other. And maybe I'm crazy, but this seems to be what Chance was trying to be. (Official notes not similar....but I feel a structural resemblance.) This is much much nicer. It's bright. It's sweet. It's has a understory of woodiness. It doesn't add up to the oriental poetry the notes suggest..but is a light dance in springtime florals. I wear when I head out into the garden...currently it's May on the West Coast of Canada. Like others have mentioned, it is a simple affair. It's not compelling, but is easy going.

    08 May, 2010

    Sugandaraja's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Dark Season by Neil Morris Fragrances

    Dark Season is a lightly spiced spruce that quickly sinks into an ambery-oriental accord based around patchouli, labdanum, and a subtle vanilla. Spruce is tamed here, and the sharp, sinus-clearing qualities of essential oil are minimized in favor of an edgeless conifer note. The base is handled deftly, never becoming the thick, oriental swamp it could be with those notes.

    Dark Season sounds ominous in name, but it's warm, inviting fragrance, welcoming you in from the winter cold rather than sending you out into it.

    I'm surprised at the reviews that find this odd and conceptual. To my nose, it's one of the most approachable in the line, quite removed from olfactory oddities like Dark Earth, and a close cousin of many older mainstream masculines. If Polo could be mellowed out to a state of unrecongizability and given a bit of gourmand window-dressing, it would smell something like Dark Season.

    08 May, 2010

    Asha's avatar

    United States United States

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    Tubéreuse by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    L'Artisan Tubereuse

    Perhaps I am the wrong person to write reviews for tuberose-centric fragrances as it is not my favorite floral category. But I do think I know when I smell a good thing, and L'Artisan's Tubereuse is really not one of them. To be fair, It opens with a really huge tuberose note that is quite nice as it evokes a fleshy, larger-than-life exotic flower with hints of bubblegum and a lemony-woody quality. All too soon it transitions into a chemical-smelling generic white floral with a jarring fecal edge and some soapy white musk. Subtlety is definitely not the theme here. In fact, I am wearing Piguet Fracas (newest formulation) for comparison. Where Fracas is full, creamy, sophisticated and symphonic, Tubereuse is loud, harsh, screechy and thin. Fracas is beautiful and graceful. Tubereuse is a maladroit caricature. It is probably worth sampling, but I suspect most tuberose lovers will go elsewhere for their tuberose fix.

    08 May, 2010

    bellaviola's avatar

    United States United States

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    Emporio Armani He by Giorgio Armani

    I swathed an ex-boyfriend in this when it first came out. It's very good. I'm disappointed though that I can't recycle it onto someone else...
    That's cheating, right?

    08 May, 2010

    bellaviola's avatar

    United States United States

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    Joop! Homme by Joop!

    Oh, no. No no no no.
    Oh my.
    Just can't even almost like this one. No no no. Like really unpleasant women's perfume.
    Oh no.
    I respect the brave men who wear this, but oh no. No no no.

    08 May, 2010

    bellaviola's avatar

    United States United States

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    Brit for Men by Burberry

    Alright ok... My new man-friend wears this... and it's alright, ok?
    But honestly it's too sweet and feminine. I didn't really notice it on him (ever, which speaks volumes, I'd say) but today it got into my head to wear it myself and it smells much better on me! That powdery-rose plus gourmand thing smells downright housewifey! Luckily I wore it to a ladies luncheon at my mother's church so it blended nicely with all of the other powdery rose gourmand scents floating around amidst the hairspray and mothball smell...
    I don't know. It's a new relationship, so maybe there's hope for his nose

    08 May, 2010

    bellaviola's avatar

    United States United States

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    Lauren Style by Ralph Lauren

    I bought it on sale (at a duty-free, where else, right?) and it bores me to tears. Boring! I am using it now as an air-freshener for my car.
    That being said, it does not smell offensive. Unless you consider being bored to DEATH offensive.

    08 May, 2010

    bellaviola's avatar

    United States United States

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    Polo Double Black by Ralph Lauren

    Delicious warm interpretation of the noir concept without being to thick or tar-y. Very sumptuous and elegant.

    08 May, 2010

    bellaviola's avatar

    United States United States

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    Jasmin Noir by Bulgari

    Smells so beautiful, lasts for less than ten minutes (literally!) even though I coated myself head-to-toe in it.

    08 May, 2010

    mysolegia's avatar

    Portugal Portugal

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    Le Muguet by Annick Goutal

    Lily of the Valley. If you like it, then this is almost the best LOTV. I don't think it beats out Caswell-Massey LOTV. For the price tag, Annick Goutal should do a little better.

    08 May, 2010

    mysolegia's avatar

    Portugal Portugal

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    No. 19 by Chanel

    I prefer this to No 5 a million times over. What a classy chypre, from beginnig to end. I can't get enough of it. I love rain, forests, moss on woods and 19 captures it nicely for me, and as a bonus the roses don't make me gag. I keep a tiny spray sample with me at all times. When I start to feel aggravated I sneak a quick spritz and voila my mood improves immediately. Thumbs way up and up.

    08 May, 2010

    mysolegia's avatar

    Portugal Portugal

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    Printemps by Ajne

    My good people: drag your behinds to Ajne's website and purchase some samples PLEASE. These scents are serious business. Printemps is wow, wow, WOW. 3 hours after application and I cannot stop sniffing my wrist.

    No, not April in Paris. That would be too predictable. This is quite unpredictable. If their sample cards that I got in the mail are correct, the scent works with my body chemistry and balances my heart chakra. I don't know a darn thing about chemistry and chakras, but if this scent is supposed to make me euphoric, then it HAS done its job.

    I do have a great bias for gardenia, any day in any way. So how magnificent for me when this opens up that way. Yes it's true it is similar to Fleur Blanche in this way but while Fleur Blanche has more "stem," Printemps has more wood and honey. For me this scent is tropical almost all throughout the beginning, but mid-way something else takes over, and I can't help but imagine purple and orange-yellow flowers starting to "sleep" at dusk. Then there is a slight cashmere-musk like scent. Now I sense toast or smoke, but also a balm like aloe vera at the same time.

    Bottom line: amazing. Again, browse thru the site. Ajne also has these amazing bottles that have to seen to be believed.

    08 May, 2010

    Nukapai's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    SJP NYC by Sarah Jessica Parker

    The official list of notes offends me because it has almost no bearing on the actual fragrance. This happens all the time, but especially so with NYC. There's definitely a strawberry note. Hoo boy, yes! It's strawberry Ribena-alcopop-chewing gum that would be at home in a shower gel, lip gloss flavour or possibly shampoo. Osmanthus? Any of the other stuff? Not so much.

    It'll no doubt be a summer best-seller. It's shockingly thin and shockingly potent at the same time. It makes Ralph by Ralph Lauren seem sophisticated and Tommy Girl seem like an 'old lady fragrance'.

    Don't get me wrong - it's a 'nice smell'. I guess I'm having a hard time adjusting to the changing smell landscape of modern perfumes; that scents usually reserved for flavours and product perfumes should be bottled and sold as fine fragrance. But - they sell; people wear them - so why not?

    I will probably wear this every now and then throughout the summer, though only when I want to smell like I've just popped the GIANTEST EVAH bubblegum bubble, OMIGOD, LOLZ.

    08 May, 2010

    msleslie's avatar

    Australia Australia

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    Berberiades by Stéphanie de Saint-Aignan

    There is a lot going on in Berberiades. The complexity is interesting as a scent experience but not necessarily one I would want to smell on myself all day. It does smell like a place - a middle eastern market place, perhaps - full of too many colourful and intriguing things to take in all at once - spices and citrus fruit stalls, flowers, other women's perfumes as they pass. It is exotic and pleasantly exciting, and would be even more so if it was actually a place I could explore. I may save this sample to wear when I am rereading Sir Richard Burton's accounts of his pilgrimage to Mecca. It is lovely, but does not suit my life.

    08 May, 2010

    sjohnjay's avatar

    United States United States

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    Saks Fifth Avenue for Him by Bond No. 9

    Absolutely beautiful.
    At first, this struck me as another "faceless" copy issued by BOND. (i.e., in the vein of some garbage from Hugo-Boss, Armani, or Polo)......I recommend not throwing your sample decant away; it may grow on you....like it did on me.
    It took only a few wearings to realize its depth and complexity.
    It's a really multifaceted aquatic, and I can even detect a subtle hint of mint.
    This "aquatic" is very atypical, and strikes me as more of a warm/vegetal aquatic, than what one may expect from this typically passe genre.
    My only complaint RE: Saks Fifth Ave is the (relatively) weak longevity.
    Definitely a worthy contender.
    A unique genius of an aquatic!

    08 May, 2010

    sjohnjay's avatar

    United States United States

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    High Line by Bond No. 9

    I just have a difficult time accepting this as BOND's "new" fragrance; it smells way too generic. It also is a near-clone to Astor Place.
    I also recall this being THE MOST advertised and media-touted fragrance by BOND in a long time.
    Pleasant as springtime wear, yet it veers toward the feminine end of the "unisex" spectrum.
    As for the "rhubarb": Don't get your hopes up. It's nothing to get overly excited about.
    Bottom line: BOND No.9's latest showcasing of high-end mediocrity.

    08 May, 2010

    Diamondflame's avatar

    Singapore Singapore

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    Molinard de Molinard by Molinard


    The brisk vetiver and green floral opening is somewhat reminiscent of Chanel No.19 EDT or the discontinued Lanvin for Men, but settles quickly into a lush, almost talcum powder-like floral accord with fleeting hints of indolic jasmine and incense(?). While MOLINARD DE MOLINARD gets a touch soapy at times, the heart remains beautifully green, the grassy vetiver retiring often and lending it a feminine sensuality without losing its old world charm. This is definitely one sexy Mrs Jones!



    08 May, 2010

    Diamondflame's avatar

    Singapore Singapore

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    Brigitte by Tocca

    Smelling BRIGITTE, I realise just how inadequate the word 'fruity' is when it comes to describing a scent, especially when it also reminds me of a cold jelly dessert I used to have as a kid. I couldn't help but smiled for it took me back in time. This is a cheerful, fun and flirty fragrance - simply perfect for that quirky but cute girl with the bubbly personality. Yeah, someone like Katy Perry.

    08 May, 2010

    Francop's avatar

    Spain Spain

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    C'est La Fête Patchouli by Christian Lacroix

    Very nice indeed; marketed as a feminine scent but feels entirely unisex; well achieved patchouli with fruity notes that take you back to the 90`s. Perfect for men who like Gentleman by Givenchy, not as powerful but more intimate and closer to the skin. Longevity is about 6 hours on my skin for a couple of sprays.

    08 May, 2010

    poppacooter's avatar



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    L'Eau D'Issey pour Homme by Issey Miyake

    its ok, has given me a headache at times, usually light scents like this dont but this one has. a better choice would be polo blue.

    08 May, 2010

    lauraschoice's avatar

    United States United States

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    Muguet des Bois by Coty

    The initial hint of lily quickly disappears and settles into a woodsy, then ashy, scent that was unpleasant after about an hour. If you want a Lily-of-the-Valley fragrance, look elsewhere; there are much better ones on the market.

    08 May, 2010

    lauraschoice's avatar

    United States United States

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    Jessica McClintock by Jessica McClintock

    A very pleasing lily fragrance, not the best on the market (I would recommend Taylor of London's) but a nice choice nonetheless. A few strong spritzes of this in the morning will only last about a half day; be prepared to reapply if necessary.

    08 May, 2010

    The_Cologneist's avatar

    United States United States

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    Paradox for Men Green by Jacomo

    My first impression was "where have I smelled this" I looked back at the reviews and Soleil hits it right on the head with the comparison to Un Jardin en Mediterrane. Only difference is that it's not Hermes, so it's not as natural feeling or as earthy smelling. It opens up with a huge burst of energy and has GREEN written all over it. I try to compare fragrances that are less known to more common ones, so with Paradox Green it reminds me of Gucci PH II, Diesel Green minus the sweetness and a little bit of Tommy Bahama. It doesn't project incredibly yet has good sillage. Now realizing the dramatic differences between projection and sillage, I place my wrist 4-6 inches away from my nose to test projection, and I do the same for sillage only I wave my wrist and arm up and down and all around. With Paradox Green there's definitely more sillage than there is projection, longevity is at least 6 hours, but sometimes I get up to 10!

    Can't go wrong on this one, it can be found very cheap, and it's different than most stuff out there, especially stuff in its price range. As Soleil says, it's not entirely unique, but it is different. If you put this next to Cool Water, AdG and Curve.. this would turn the most heads. For its price.. yes it's unique.. but for fragrances in general.. it's nothing super special.

    More into the notes -- It's hard to say what's in the opening.. smells a little bit like seaweed or sea salt, but very subtle, lots of leaves for sure, grassy and very very green and fresh. As it dries it begins to remind me of Gucci PH II, I actually get a tea accord coming out of it, the pepper is also noticeable and it's not a very synthetic pepper like the stuff in L'eau par Kenzo. The rosewood lingers there behind it all, it's something you don't really notice until the end of your sniffing. Cardamom is very subtle, not overdone like in many fragrances, I smell a little nutmeg or possibly even ginger.. the only thing I don't get from the middle is the red berry. The base incorporates woods, moss and tonka bean yet still maintains much from the middle and that same green feeling that was so refreshing in the top. This actually makes for a pretty complex fragrance that still isn't all over the place. It's complex yet still somewhat linear, it switches phases very very smoothly which makes it seem linear. It's very precise at what it does and very well balanced, one of the best green fragrances I've ever experienced, and with a low price tag.

    08 May, 2010

    AntFarmer's avatar

    United States United States

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    Amoureuse by Delrae

    Very lovely and spirited. It's a girl-next-door kind of pretty, yet subtly sensual fragrance with a whole lot of white florals and a little bit of honey and sandalwood to skank it up in the drydown. The honey, while not sweet, prevents it from smelling like every other floral. I'm not a fan of white florals, so I can't stomach this. And exactly as a previous reviewer said--I didn't get any tangerine or tuberose like I had hoped--it was almost all jasmine and honey. But I do appreciate its composition and I think it makes an absolutely perfect scent for a very specific kind of person.

    08 May, 2010

    AntFarmer's avatar

    United States United States

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    Aomassaï 10 by Parfumerie Generale

    Upon initial application I get a blast of cedar with something slightly sweet in the background. It smells like my father, who works as an arborist and loves cream cheese danishes. I was hoping for all the caramel, hazelnut, smoky gourmand yumminess because I normally like gourmands, but this was just all woods and sweet powder on my skin. I would definitely say this is an enjoyable fragrance, but this is not something I would purchase, or contribute to the hype of.

    08 May, 2010

    bemebe's avatar



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    Essence by Narciso Rodriguez

    I was given this for Christmas and upon opening I was overwhelmed by such a strong masculine fragrance. I do like and often wear mens fragrance but this perfume to my nose really did smell like a nasty supermarket budget toiletry.
    To be polite I sprayed it once and once was all I needed for this to linger on my skin and clothing for quite a long time. Even after laundering my clothes still smelt.

    Oh dear.

    08 May, 2010

    Swanky's avatar

    United States United States

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    Deauville pour Homme by Michel Germain

    This one is a great value. I, too, found a large bottle at T.J. Maxx for $9.99, after smelling in Bloomingdale's in San Francisco a few years back. It smells good immediately, powdery at first but slowly morphing into a clean lavender/spice scent. For those who myopically can't handle any scent dating from before their year of birth, this is a fine choice from the new school. Very similar to Lanvin's Arpege Pour Homme in my book, so one wouldn't need both. The longevity is fine as well, although it does wear fairly close to the skin. I also like the name: it reminds me of Jean-Pierre Melville's great film "Bob le flambeur."

    08 May, 2010 (Last Edited: 23 September, 2011)

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