Fragrance Reviews from May 2010

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    Amouage Homage by Amouage

    Before I wax ridiculous about this Seraphic unguent, I'll share the description of notes in my Amouage 'booklet', which I received as a 'complimentary gift' ...for blowing the appropriate amount of dough at the Harrod's Amouage boutique:

    '...dominated by rose taifi, (which is) the finest quality of oil extracted from the petals of a rose. Complimenting this,the finest silver frankincense, tayyiba, (which is) a beautiful blend of jasmine and sweet amber, Silver oud and al andalus, (which is) a subtle blend of citrus and sandalwood.'

    Perhaps this is the most beautiful scent in production on earth. At least in the top three or four.

    Lovers of the Amouage are predisposed to adore this one, as it's not only an homage to ancient and traditional Middle-Eastern perfumery, but also a nod to specific popular scents in the Amouage line, most notably Dia Women (the crisp, variety of unsweetened, soap-ish rose), Silver Cologne Men (the very subtle use of citrus and frankincense), and Jubliation XXV (the undertones of authentic, salubrious oud). I consider it a true unisex scent, if anything leaning a tad toward the 'masculine' end of the gamut.

    I am not sure another popular fragrance exists that speaks to the ancient art perfumery or illustrates the divine healing potential of scent in this way. To me, it smells fit for a deity. I imagine Lord Siva would smell like this: strutting toward his retinue coolly, loose-hipped...wearing a garland of roses and beneficently waving his nimble, attenuated and enlightened, perfumed hands over their prostrate forms. Or Aphrodite: stretching, recumbent and languorous in her dazzling and lush cradle of irresistible seduction. It's so redolent that after applying just a few small drops, it's aroma literally fills the room with a gorgeous cloud of scent that stimulates the imagination and soothes my being.

    I am inspired mystically, too, and I imagine that Homage's aroma-therapeutic qualities must be extraordinary (Applied before bed, its ether draws me into the most delectable inexorable slumber, in which I have the most soaring, healing dreams :)). Homage, with its cool, camphorous oud note and crystalline clarity, might be the ideal, magical, olfactive panacea. If an angel or sprite... or other supernatural well-wisher... gifted any afflicted mortal with an unction to heal the proverbial heart or disaffected soul, it would surely smell just like this....:)

    Homage is presented appropriately in a stunningly-crafted burled wood box, lined with royal purple velvet, which is a beautiful showpiece for any boudoir.


    A true treasure.

    And if you tend to experience perfume as an inspiration or journey you must not miss out on this.


    30th May, 2010 (Last Edited: 31st May, 2010)

    msveronica9's avatar
    msveronica9
    Australia Australia

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    Gingerlily & Mango by Sohum

    This fragrance is from a small perfumery in Melbourne, Australia. The SoHum website lists the notes for Gingerlily & Mango as: "Tropical gingerlilies, Rosewood, Mandarin, Nutmeg, ginger root, plump mangoes".

    I could immediately detect the ginger and gingerlily notes, which gives it a similar smell to Gres' "Cabotine" (allegedly the first fragrance to use gingerlily as a dominant note.) It also has a hesperidic quality (probably the mandarin). The other notes stay nicely in the background and this fragrance fades pleasantly without changing in any noticeable way.

    A rather lovely, fresh fruity fragrance that would be great in summer.

    30th May, 2010

    msveronica9's avatar
    msveronica9
    Australia Australia

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    Pink Frangipani by Sohum

    The SoHum website lists the notes for Pink Frangipani as: 'Waterlily, White blossoms, Hyacinth, Wild Frangipani flowers, Mimosa, Pink Freesias, Plumeria' (aka Frangipani).

    To me the dominant note in this fragrance is a sweet, jasmine-like floral scent which brings to mind the white (or was it red?) frangipani bush we had in the family garden.

    Pink Frangipani is pretty strong stuff, quite 'linear', and could easily veer into 'bathroom freshener' territory. I wouldn't necessarily want to wear this (white florals not being my fave) - but it's certainly a pleasure to apply to my hand and deeply inhale from time to time.

    30th May, 2010

    Marmelade's avatar
    Marmelade


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    Ce Soir Ou Jamais by Annick Goutal

    Love it. One of the most true-to-nature scents I've ever smelled, smells like actual petals in a background of green, with no chemical, powdery or musky elements. The nose wants to keep smelling it over time. Far from overpowering, but not fleeting either.

    30th May, 2010 (Last Edited: 24 June, 2010)

    paulik's avatar
    paulik
    Romania Romania

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    Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent

    @Yves Saint Lourock:

    1) Have you ever heard of "civet"?

    2) It is VERY wrong to call people "idiots".

    For the other readers: please excuse him, he is Romanian (as am I, so I know what I am speaking about). Many of my fellow citizens are not ready yet to interact with the rest of the world in a civilized manner.

    30th May, 2010

    The_Cologneist's avatar
    The_Cologneist
    United States United States

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    Kanøn Norwegian Wood by Kanon

    I got a 3.3 oz bottle of this stuff @ Ross for 6.99 a couple days ago, and I gotta admit... it's good stuff. Me.. I'm a HUGEEEE sandalwood fan, and those of us who love sandalwood may be particularly picky on how it smells. I like my sandalwood to smell very natural and sweet. Tam Dao is a great example of what sandalwood in a frag should be to me. Kanon NW does a fantastic job on this one. I've seen Kanon online for low prices, but thought it was just some cheap crap, I bought this completely blind, knowing nothing about the house, the notes, or reading any reviews on here. I guess it's a new fragrance (2010). At first spray, all I can think of is Tam Dao, and a few weeks ago I was asking for a cheap Tam Dao alternative in the forums. My only complaint is that longevity is really bad. I get like 2-3 hours tops. It's a pretty linear scent that starts off like sweet sandalwood with a natural feeling and smell, then becomes a little more of a synthetic smelling sweet sandalwood and smells a little bit soapy. For the most part though, its a sandalwood and cedar fragrance. A hell of a deal @ 6.99 and an acceptable Tam Dao alternative.

    30th May, 2010

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    suzi2qs
    United States United States

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    Red Aoud by Montale

    I new new to the world of aoud but am really quite enamoured. Red Aoud starts off with sharp, medicinal blast of aoud, similar to Montale's other aoud offerings. The pepper,saffron and cumin present within minutes to make this fragance quite different from the beastly Black Aoud, which I love to death. What I end up with is a long lasting drydown of spice, gourmand notes with the aoud dancing beneath it all. I find this rich, pleasantly sexual and it never fails to draw compliments. This is less in-your-face than Black Aoud, it is softer, a bit more feminine, but has the sillage and lasting power that brings me back to the house of Montale time and time again. I wear this on days when I am relaxed and comfortable. All in all, I find the quality of the ingredients and the powerful sillage justified the purchase. Love this.

    30th May, 2010

    Bigsly's avatar
    Bigsly
    United States United States

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    M de Morabito by Pascal Morabito

    The note pyramid for this is:

    Top : Blackcurrant, Marigold, Mandarin

    Heart : Jasmin, Peony, Hyacinth, Tea, Rose, Narcissus, Freesia

    Base : Sandalwood, Peach, Musk, Civet, Amber

    Some seek a damp, earthy "masculine" floral, whereas this is a dry, dusty masculine floral. The civet note is clear, though not super-strong, so if you don't like it, you might want to avoid this fragrance. One comparison is the original Boss Cologne (now known as Boss Number One), but that one is not as dry. If you like the idea, you might prefer the aftershave formulation, which is the only one I've sampled and is very strong.

    My review of May, 2010: This might be best named The Air of the Moroccan Desert (if it hadn't already been used), but this is the desert air, not the air of a street market in Marrakesh. I've got the aftershave form, which is plenty strong. It is dusty and dry. I could not find a note pyramid, so I'm guessing there is orange blossom and jasmine in here, along with sandalwood, patchouli, and some sort of sweet note, such as honey. It's lighter and more "transparent" (perhaps due to the formulation) than other fragrances that are similar, such as vintage Chaps. There is a mild "dirty" note here, perhaps due to the orange blossom or jasmine. It might come across as dry leather to some, but I'm not sure if there is an actual leather note present. There is no strong spice, if any, and perhaps just a slight herbal element. The base reminds me of a dried-out cream. Those not used to this kind of fragrance might call it musty or decrepit, but there is just enough "brightness" here to keep it from being too much. Some might think this is base upon an Habit Rouge idea, and I couldn't argue with that notion, though this one is more consistent from opening to base (and I don't get any spice). If you are looking for something different and evocative, while still being wearable (assuming you don't just wear fresh/aquatic fragrances), you might want to sample this one.

    30th May, 2010 (Last Edited: 28 April, 2011)

    scentsitivity's avatar
    scentsitivity
    United States United States

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    Alamut by Lorenzo Villoresi

    I think this is a nicely done, delicate, somewhat powdery feminine floral. I think I would like this on a lady.

    31st May, 2010

    scentsitivity's avatar
    scentsitivity
    United States United States

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    L'Air de Rien by Miller Harris


    I was a bit timid to reach for this one (timid, but curious). Luca Turin’s allusion to “soiled underwear” didn’t appeal to me. I found it much better than I expected. L’Air de Rien is airy, boozy, and salty. A touch dirty. Vanilla and amber in the base. Nicely done, and certainly unisex!


    31st May, 2010 (Last Edited: 05 June, 2010)

    flco's avatar
    flco
    United States United States

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    Bryant Park by Bond No. 9

    It's all raspberry and rhubarb on me--Quite tart yet lovely. And it has tremendous staying power on me during the summer. Five hours later, I'm still catching whiffs of sour sweetness. Overall, I think this would be a perfect fruity, summery fragrance for someone who isn't into overly sweet scents.

    31st May, 2010

    Doctor Mod's avatar
    Doctor Mod
    United States United States

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    Lady Caron by Caron

    I read what other reviewers have to say and feel a twinge of envy. I am a huge Caron fan who always appreciates a good chypre, which I think this is. Unfortunately, I can only smell the first blast out of the bottle. The magnolia is lovely, if eccentric--not a problem as far as I'm concerned, in fact it adds to the charm. But ten minutes later I can press my perfumed wrist to my nose and smell. . . nothing. Absolutely nothing. Today I tried an experience. After my shower I coated myself with sesame oil, then sprayed on Lady Caron. Several hours later, I can smell the fragrance--the magnolia, some neroli, and a trace of sandalwood if I really try. Of course, I might be picking up some of the sesame oil scent as well. The fragrance is elegant and soft, a "lady" to be sure, pleasant and classy--but none of the grand operatic sensuality that other Carons deliver so well. Still, I know there's something lovely in this fragrance that's compelling enough to make me want to try it again at some later date.

    31st May, 2010

    Doctor Mod's avatar
    Doctor Mod
    United States United States

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    Ananas Fizz by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    I got two sample vials of Ananas Fizz, and testing it has surely been one of the oddest experiences I've had with a new fragrance. I've got to admit that it was fun putting it on. In the privacy of my own home, I poured the entire vial over my forearms, shoulders, throat, and breasts. This excess was the result of my often being unable to smell many L'Artisan frags after 90 seconds from application. The fruit-loopy top notes (which aren't really pineapple and don't fool this Honolulu native) are anything but natural, but there's a weird cheap thrills quality about it. No, it's not in the least like pouring pineapple juice all over yourself. (Aloha!) It lacks the biting but extremely sweet edginess of the real thing. It doesn't smell like any real grapefruit either. Only the French, who brought the concept of the simulacrum into postmodern discourse, could create this apotheosis of complete artificiality.

    After three minutes or so--was I hallucinating?--the scent seemed to explode (yes!) with a loud blast of something I had no words to describe, even though it caused me to choke violently. Although there was something vaguely recognizable about it, I was hard pressed to analyze what it smelled like until I was teaching the next day. One of my students had a little can of one of those ghastly "energy drinks" of which undergraduates consume massive quantities in spite of the fact that they taste like nothing nature ever created. Yes! That was it! It smelled like Red Bull or whatever it is tastes! Ach! Fortunately, this moment passed quickly and the fragrance died down into an interesting powdery fruity scent, peculiar but hardly unpleasant. In a little over a hour it disappeared altogether.

    I would say that it felt, all in all, like an ephemeral cheap thrill--only L'Artisan fragrances are never cheap. I can imagine that my undergraduates might like it, and I'd certainly prefer smelling Ananas Fizz than Paris Hilton Ineducable or some such in the classroom any day. I suspect, though, that something as French, eccentric, upscale, and thoroughly postmodern as AF would appeal more to the intellectually curious than to the average sorority girl. Even so, better on them than on their fifty-something professor. I might just put the second sample vial in my briefcase and let them have some fun with it before the class begins. After the midterms, I need some amusement. In the meantime, I'll look to Dole for pineapple.

    31st May, 2010

    Doctor Mod's avatar
    Doctor Mod
    United States United States

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    Tiptoeing Through Chambers of the Moon by Pilar and Lucy

    I was given a small decant of Tiptoeing Through the Chambers of the Moon, but, perplexed as I was about the meaning of the name and just what this fragrance was intending to evoke--at worst, I figured, some very twee and pretentious artsy-ness--I hesitated for some time before testing it. The truth is that it isn't bad at all--which is not to say it's great.

    TTCM is a pleasant if slightly heavy tuberose scent (nothing as grandiose as Robert Piguet's Fracas, mind you) that doesn't turn into rancid butter or rotting vegetation on my skin as so many other tuberose fragrances do. But that being said, there's nothing particularly outstanding about it either. On a young woman, it might be much more attractive and interesting than the average celebrity frag or flanker du jour, though on a more mature one it might call to mind the dreaded grande dame with whom one does not wish to share an elevator ride for fear of asphixiation.

    The notes, according to LuckyScent, are "amber, tuberose (and secret ingredients that we are not allowed to divulge)." I have to admit to being leery of this sort of "coyness," if that's what it is. Taking into consideration everything from allergies to personal dislikes of certain notes, surely consumers should be informed about what they're getting. Even so, I don't detect any particularly clear amber note, but one of those "secret ingredients," something distinctly musky, is present in the drydown, which happens quite rapidly with this scent. The tuberose is emphemeral, replaced by something vaguely green. While relatively strong at first, the sillage fades within ten to fifteen minutes. Nice, but that's about it.

    31st May, 2010

    Doctor Mod's avatar
    Doctor Mod
    United States United States

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    Matthew Williamson - The Collection: Incense by Matthew Williamson

    I have one very happy memory of the Roman Catholic church of my childhood, namely the odor of incense during the most solemn liturgies. Matthew Williamson's Incense captures that smell quite accurately, while the labdanum note adds just enough floral contrast to evoke the sense of a holy day. Paradoxically, the experience of the fragrance on one's skin is sensual enough to combine the sacred and the profane for a ephemeral moment. That, however, is the problem with Incense--it's very ephemeral. Within five minutes of application, the fragrance began to fade on my skin. I applied more--and then some more. Within fifteen minutes, I had poured the entire 1.5ml decant on me without much improvement.

    A beautiful fragrance, but its sillage and duration are beyond minimal.

    Notes: labdanum, patchouli and incense.

    31st May, 2010

    derekp's avatar
    derekp
    Canada Canada

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    Tabac Blond by Caron

    Spicier than I like on a woman, more powdery than I like for a man. Perhaps it's a coincidence, but I can think of at least 3 55+ female smokers I know that wear this one. Despite my preferences and the mental image I have of the wearer, you can't deny the quality here. Neutral, but leaning negative.

    31st May, 2010

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    Bigsly
    United States United States

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    Rodier pour Homme by Rodier

    I also found this to be weak. It's also really nothing special, so I don't see any reason to seek it out. If it's in the bargain bin, though, and you want a really inoffensive "office" fragrance, this is one to consider. It is "natural" and overall well done.

    31st May, 2010

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    Redbeard
    United States United States

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    Jean Marie Farina by Roger & Gallet

    An eau de cologne that tends toward the "savory" or salty end of the spectrum. Initially it's a lot like 4711 but then the floral components go into hiding pretty quickly, leaving a relatively leafy citrus. The lime that survives this transition stays fairly close to the scent of the peel, without much of the candy-like or herbal tinges that other lime scents can have. Finally as the lime begins to fade, the florals return, again like 4711 but accompanied with a slight dusty herbal component like Wellington or Blenheim Bouquet. JMF, however, does this herbal note right, and it comes out less stale and "kitcheny" than those two. Finally, we're left with that light, dry wood aura that always reminds me of straw, hay or bamboo, as seen in the bases of the newest versions of Guerlain Vetiver and Eau Sauvage. The only drawback here is that the Perfumed Court refers to the sample I bought as the vintage formula, so even though it's pretty cheap, I hesitate to actually buy a bottle online (only large sizes available!) and then not quite get what I bargained for.

    31st May, 2010

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    Redbeard
    United States United States

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    Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa by Acqua di Parma

    A heavy "perfumey" citrus with some added wood. Like Burberry Original or Dolce and Gabbana, it is a very bright, golden scent with a metallic edge that wants to smell expensive, but I fear that the metal in AdPI is too intense. It's extremely strong and long-lasting, and I loved it at first; one spray on a jacket lying in my living room lasted for at least two weeks, leaving what at the time seemed a very expensive, refined aura. But over a few uses, I discovered AdPI's thick, stifling side: a cloying denseness (not even sweetness per se) would hang so heavily over me that I would be completely at wits end by the end of the day, though layering over it with a light EdC would make a palatable combination. I'm pretty sure that one very sappy, sticky floral is the offending note; it makes me think of flowers that are just a bit too wilted to be kept any longer, when the stems themselves begin to smell old. The base, once you've gotten over how expensive it smells, just feels like generic perfume residue. Or not even perfume specifically, but really any upscale scented product. Unfortunately it tends in my mind toward shampoo, the one association that can really put me off this family of fragrance. It becomes the Hotel from Hell, where you try their fancy shampoo packet and are then damned to spend all of eternity trying to rinse it out.

    31st May, 2010

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    andyman32
    United States United States

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    Golden Aoud by Montale

    I have had Golden Aoud for a couple of months and every time I wear it, it's a treat. It is a predominantly rose & oudh scent but it's a quite idyllic, masculine, woody rose with soft edges. I can't dive as deep into the subtleties of the blend as others here have, but simply put, the juice is sublime. A true masculine rose. This is one of a handful of fragrances that will be in my wardrobe forever!

    31st May, 2010

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    SmellyNinja
    Canada Canada

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    Gucci Pour Homme II by Gucci

    Haha...okay, yeah. This is pretty good.

    Starts off slightly feminie with a creamy sweet fruit/floral mixture, then settles down into warm, smooth spice and wood scent that never gets too heavy. Very versatile. It's luxurious without being snobby and playful without being immature. It's subtle, with light sillage, so it could work at the office, but really perfect for a date or romantic evening when you plan to have someone close.

    31st May, 2010

    nonnative's avatar
    nonnative
    Italy Italy

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    White Linen by Estée Lauder

    I like its dirty, soapy, chemical drydown. It make me think of a whitehair old lady dressed in linen. The kind of elegant and interesting granny I would like to become. A good parfume, especially because like Mitzuko and very few others are really abstract (meaning that I do not immediately reconize a flower, spice, or food).

    31st May, 2010

    nonnative's avatar
    nonnative
    Italy Italy

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    À la Nuit by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Years ago I was in Egypt and I loved a nice scent I perceived in the garden of the hotel. I later discovered it was a tree of jasmine, indian jasmine. When I first smelled A la nuit it struk me how a perfect reproduction of indian jasmine it was!! True jasmine at night, when the heat of the day leaves space to the fresh wind of a parfumed egyptian night. Perhaps the only problem of this Lutens is that I would not spend so much for a soliflore.

    31st May, 2010

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    urfliness
    United States United States

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    Style In Play by Lacoste

    I consider myself a pretty open minded person when it comes to many things.I tired and I tired and I tried but I just could not get into this frag.I can't describe it but thw sweetness is just annoying and the dry down doesn't compensate much for the sickly opening.sTill a lacoste fan non the less.

    31st May, 2010

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    shamu1
    United States United States

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    Allure Homme by Chanel

    I am stunned at all the positive reviews of Allure Homme. I find this to be one of the most boring, uninspired fragrances I have ever smelled. Fruity, sporty, "fresh" and light, ugh... I could go on but I won't. What's the point? I can't believe this is by Chanel. I hate stuff like this.

    31st May, 2010

    artp's avatar
    artp
    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Nuit De Longchamp by Lubin

    I have a bottle of the original (some what evaporated and dark) so I thought I would compare it to the new one.
    Lovely!! Smooth, elegant and refined and a great reformulation.
    It is not as full bodied as the original, lacking the natural civet and oakmoss base that suports so much but beautiful, feminine and utterly romantic though not in the modern trite, sweet, cloying, white flower way.
    It opens with a burst of ylang ylang and jasmine flowers with rose at the forefront, then a warm floral chypre and dries down to a soft orris powder. Beautiful.
    I know that people always say this this type of fragrance is 'old ladyish' but they forget that these were perfumes were once as young and modern as the old ladies who wear them! This is a symphony in smell where as so many modern ones are merely ring tones by comparison. 10 out of 10!

    31st May, 2010

    artp's avatar
    artp
    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Le Vetyver by Lubin

    I have on one hand Guerlain 'Vetyver' and Lubin 'Le Vetyver' on the other, so here goes..!
    For purity and long lasting "vetyverishness" the Guerlain is the better. Soft, clean, citrus fresh and considered rightly the best available.
    The Lubin is much darker though and very, very interesting.
    It has an almost lapsangsouchong tea note to the oakmoss underneath and a nose tingleing peppery spicyness through out.
    The oakmoss is very strong and almost obscures the vetyver note but it reappears and catches you making you go back for an extra sniff.
    When I first had it on I was rather taken aback as it is so unusual and not the usual "vetyver" and I wondered if it was going to singe my nose with hatefull synthetic woods after a few minutes making me get out the scrubbing brush but no, it developed and has kept me hooked ever since.
    Now, I have to say that I am biased here as I have already have gone through two 125ml bottles of the Lubin and only 3/4 of a 75ml bottle of the Guerlain...!
    The reason? It is just more interesting. The quality of materials used is high, it is very well balanced, stuffed full of oakmoss and ever so slightly wierd!
    In short, I love it and long may it last!

    31st May, 2010

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    aktp-iciook
    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Acqua di Giò pour Homme by Giorgio Armani

    Acqua Di Gio is phenomenal and very fascinating from topnotes to basenotes. ☼ It is great in its own creativity albeit overpriced ☼

    The ambery basenotes started off with citrus punch is a great combination.

    Sillage and longevity are moderate on my skin. Applying ADG liberally would definitely not offend anyone ☺☻☺☻

    Cheers ♪♫

    31st May, 2010

    trapper's avatar
    trapper
    Romania Romania

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    Royal Delight by Creed

    First of all, I am a man and I proudly wear this one easily when I'm elegantly dressed. It's absolutely gorgeous. It may be intoxicating and heavy at first but it dims down and becomes suave.
    It speaks class, style and passion. Brilliant.

    31st May, 2010

    Wrench's avatar
    Wrench


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    Absynthe by Christian Lacroix

    This is a scent very sensitive to body chemistry. I've tried, hard, to like this scent, and I do. It's very dry, clean, crisp, woodsy, earthy, and mysterious. I can't say it's a warm weather scent to me, but neither is it strictly cold weather. On me, however, all I smell are the chemical earmarks of a cheap perfume. (I have absolutely nothing against cheap perfumes -- half of my perfume collection are "pedestrian" perfumes from Bath and Body Works or Victoria's Secret -- but the chemical smell is very distinctive.) The scent only lasts a few hours on me and the drydown isn't really pleasant enough for me to miss it much.

    I love it on the sample card, but on my skin, it just doesn't work out. Very disappointing.

    31st May, 2010

    Showing 961 to 990 of 994.