Perfume Reviews

Latest Perfume Reviews

Total Reviews: 144989

Cuir Cannage by Christian Dior

kind of surprised with all the different comparisons in other reviews that no one seems to have mentioned this...to my nose, this is somewhere between Knize Ten and Cuir Ottoman...a slightly toned down industrial leather with a nice touch of flowers....slightly animalistic...killer projection and very good longevity...a must try or buy for leather lovers IMHO...when I need a fix of good old leather without being drowned out by other notes, this is a good one...the only thing missing , for those that might be wanting it , is the gasoline vibe...doesn't really exist in this one...
16th July, 2018

Polo Modern Reserve by Ralph Lauren

I'm a big fan of the original Polo but not in the current formulation, just the vintage. This is probably the closest to it if you can't get the real thing, at least as far as my memory is concerned.

I do actually prefer Polo Crest over the original and Modern Reserve because it smells like original Polo just slightly modernized, so you get the best of both worlds.

Modern Reserve starts off green, mossy and spicy. As it dries down, you lose some of the green but the spice carries on into the leather phase which is great. Very masculine throughout.

This is manly and rugged but there's some wealth and refinement in there as well. It should be a versatile scent for the right guy with the right attitude. Probably more mature than young.

I get good projection and longevity, lasts 7-8 hours on me.
16th July, 2018

Jardins de Bagatelle by Guerlain

Finding an almost empty bottle of Jardins de Bagatelle in my mom's house reminded me how much I loved and enjoyed this scent in my youth. Reminds me of walking through Regents Parks in the rose garden and area of Kew Gardens through all the flowers.

Vivid yet soft florals that bring a quiet smile to my face every time I wear this one.
16th July, 2018
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Casmir by Chopard

Many years ago I used to work in a bookstore that also had a cafe and I was one of the baristas. I purchased Casmir with one of my paychecks and wore it quite often during the late 90's. I would often get asked by customers what items we were baking or what drink I made that had that excellent scent.

Casmir has a very creamy vanillin base that also has a 'can't quite put my finger on it' top notes that in that environment often was mistaken for baked goods. When restocking books I would often have loads of customers come up to me just to smell the perfume and ask me what it was. I was completely flattered until one creepy older man kept walking up to me and smelling me over and over. He returned quite often to sniff me and I told him to just buy a bottle of Casmir and do his sniffing and home. I had to shelve Casmir and switched to Pleasures, which turned out to be the repellent scent for this particular individual.

Casmir is a good cheaper gourmand fragrance and quite a heavy one too. Sadly it evokes too many stalker quality memories for me to wear again.
16th July, 2018

Insolence Eau de Parfum by Guerlain

You want to smell like fruity parma violets and leave a multifaceted rainbow of (as my 6 year old would say) 'what the WHAT?' trailing behind you? Insolence is for you!

I love the scent, the violets blaring, the tinge of icing sugar powdery goodness mixed in and the slightest hint of jammy berries. One spray is enough to part a small room of people. Two or three spray can part a crowd. Insolence gets people standing to attention. I've been told that people know I walked down a hallway when I wear Insolence.

Be careful with this one, it can clash unmercifully with other scents and should never be worn in small spaces. I don't wear it often, but when I do I go in bold and brash.
16th July, 2018

Bel Ami by Hermès

Modern version... This has bright notes of citrus, vetiver, sage, and basil on top. Nice and crisp, in fact. Second phase going into the middle I get styrax, patchouli, amber, and carnation. Then, the leather smacks me in the face. Kind of that new pair of gloves or winter coat smell. Oddly, as that begins to mellow I get something of a reminder of fine lipstick. Way later I am treated to a skin-base of vanilla and coconut. I give this three and a half stars. One of the better masculine 'fumes that works on my old lady skin.
15th July, 2018

Vince Camuto Oud by Vince Camuto

Very woody, dusty, smoked cedar and sandalwood. The oud is pretty accessible and should be enjoyed by those of us who don't always appreciate the "best" oud scents.

Comes out of the gate swinging with plenty of projection but dies down quickly. Other than losing some of the bite from the opening, it stays linear from start to finish.

Longevity is good, lasts all workday but doesn't project a huge cloud after the opening dies down.

Although this is fairly clean and not heavy, feels best for casual wear in cooler temps.
15th July, 2018

Polo Blue by Ralph Lauren

My best way to describe Polo Blue (2002) to the old heads is an "aquatic made like a chypre", and to younger fragrance fans as "a sweaty aquatic", because it is both of those. Truth be told, Polo Blue exists as Carlos Benaim's return to the series he started in 1978 with the original Polo, reinterpreting that mossy gentlemanly scent themed after a sport only one percenters play, but for the Y2K crowd obssessed with freshness and dynamic. Polo Blue subsequently renewed interest in the aquatic genre that was starting to cool it's heels after "radioactive grapefruit" ozonics rose to plague shelves with their feckless attention grab for the emerging affluent "sons of the establishment"; the Donald Trump Jr's of the world that wanted to smell loud and decorated in opulence they didn't earn but not in the gentrified way their parents did. All that stuff eventually fell downmarket anyway and was forgotten as it became discontinued, while Polo Blue gave the more-populist aquatic an upper-class shot in the arm which renewed interest not only in the Polo fragrance line for younger people, but in the aquatic genre itself. I actually encountered Polo Blue at Walmart, however ironic as that sounds, because they attempted for a while to sell high-end new releases (when they weren't stolen) to show their fragrance aisle was a more than a place to buy Calgon and Axe sprays. The "made like a chypre" factor comes from it's use of dry mossy textures and sharp, slightly virile tones, while the "sweaty aquatic" comes from the prominent but bleached-out bay note floating in the drydown. It's not the average blue juice.

Polo Blue opens with a kerfuffle of juicy fruitiness and cucumber. Carlos Benaim wasn't messing around with his core audience for this and went right for the throat with bouncy melon and tangerine. This isn't quite ozonic territory but it definitely feels like the average aquatic opening but with a prescription of Vivance fed to it, with a side of trendy cucumber water. The middle comes from basil, clary sage, and geranium, which is pretty crisp and green standard-issue fare for masculines going back 50+ years, and likely Benaim's nod to tradition that helps anchor this down so the older crowd, more likely to buy Ralph Lauren suits than scents at that point, might see it as adequate. There's quite a lot of fantasy notes here which I'm trying to ignore, the kind of thing Calvin Klein is known for and not Ralph Lauren, so the base regardless of what's listed has a slight dry moss and patchouli, with Iso E Super, amber, a musk molecule, and bay leaf. These were the days just before norlimbanol or ambroxan, so none of that is here, but the stuff is totally aswim with dihydromyrcenol (a.k.a. the "Cool Water" smell), a bit of calone for the melon accords, and the aforementioned Iso E Super in the nose-tinge woody base, so in strictest terms, Polo Blue is a chemical scent that super-hardline indie niche or vintage purists will hate. I'm sure those folks are not even remotely considered by the perfumer or house anyway, but it bears mentioning. The end result of a Polo Blue wear is an aura of fruity notes with their sweetness squashed by the herbs and burned to a crisp by the dry aromachemicals, having the slight moss only act a rounding agent alongside the scant musk. The bay note adds the "sweaty guy" vibe that makes Polo Blue come across as a buttoned up Perry Ellis 360 Degrees for Men (1992), which has my vote as best "gym bag" fragrance, and that's not a bad comparison.

Polo Blue served a niche that I don't think anyone knew existed initially: a crowd of young professionals looking for a slightly formal and forthright masculine but in aquatic form. All the 90's aquatics were casual, sporty, slightly androgynous and laundry-clean affairs that were fine for day-running in summer or inoffensive fragrance bubbles within one's own office cubicle, but didn't serve the suit and tie upper management guy. If you're forced into a 3-piece suit 365 days a year who normally wears stuff like Rive Gauche Pour Homme (2003) or Terre de Hermès (2006) but want something fresher for days commuting in high heat without losing the formality, this scent is a serious option. Polo Blue has enough manly dryness to recall the starched collars of mid-century masculinity, hence my link to the chypres of that era, but the sweat factor also plays into usability at the gym too, since it won't stand out a ton but will deodorize nonetheless, making it a great office to gym then home or out kind of smell. The success of Polo Blue spawned Nautica Blue (2005), Bvlgari Aqva Pour Homme (2005), Versace Pour Homme (2008), and even distantly Bleu de Chanel (2010), which itself ushered in the Ambroxan craze. Polo Blue is arguably the most popular Polo creation in the 21st century, dwarfing the original in use for the 35 and under crowd, and it's easy to see why. Folks who hate the use of any post 1990 aromachemicals or aquatics will hate this too, so there's nothing to see here for them, but for a person who just sorta likes (but doesn't love) the aquatic genre, this is certainly one of the better entries and presents the aquatic in a dressed-up and classy form, worthy of at least sampling. 2016 saw the introduction of this in parfum form, which like with the Bleu de Chanel line, adds increased sillage, warmth, and heft, but loses some of the freshness this genre is all about. A solid blue juice and one of my faves in the genre. Well done Polo!
14th July, 2018 (last edited: 15th July, 2018)

Giorgio by Giorgio Beverly Hills

I have vintage sample. I remember when this came out. Everyone, I mean everyone wore it. Too much of it, too.

My sample is vibrant but more mellow than I remember from years past. The florals of tuberose, gardenia, ylang ylang, jasmine, orange blossom, and rose are all intact. Very bold. I get a hint of green which may be the chamomile or oakmoss. The amber and musk are enhanced by vanilla. The patchouli is sweetened by something - I can't put my finger on it. It may be fruit.

Overall I am glad I found a vintage sample. Honestly, I never owned a full bottle of this back in the day. I only had a sample. I gave it away because I couldn't stomach wearing something that every other woman was drowning in.
14th July, 2018

Yatagan by Caron

Forest wood spirits!
Arise to this nose and teach
Your joyous life song.
14th July, 2018

L'Art et la Matière : Spiritueuse Double Vanille by Guerlain

Yummy vanilla. If you've ever smelled Nielsen-Massey's Vanilla Bean Paste, this is it in a perfume. Not at all over the top sweet, but a rich, as close to true scent as can be.
14th July, 2018

La Petite Robe Noire 2012 by Guerlain

My first exposure to La Petite Robe Noire was a Guerlain miniatures order. The bottle of LPRN broke somehow during the shipment and the box, the wrapping paper - everything - smelled with LPRN. Obviously it had been saturating for a long while.

You know how when exploring your grandma's or parents house and they have this stuff sitting in boxes or away in a corner how it takes on some weird old peppery smell that you can't really identify except that it's something that has been stored and going stale and musty for a while? That is the exact undercurrent the predominates in La Petite Robe Noire as the top notes settle. Combine that with some Victoria's Secret or Bath and Body Works berry body lotion and that is what LPRN smells like. I have no desire to smell like it nor to smell it on others.

In fact, my husband bought me a bottle of this blind after my miniature bottle broke. I wore it once and he realized his mistake and I promptly tried to wash it off. I'll give it points for massive silage and longevity because I still smelled it on myself the next day after a shower. I brought it into work and (surprise surprise) no one wanted it and everyone complained about the 'weird cherry hand soap smell' in the office and it was dutifully banned.



14th July, 2018

Patchouly Indonesiano by Farmacia SS. Annunziata

Chameleon. This one changes flavor every few minutes or so. It can be musty, dusty, woody, earthy. A tad sweet like tobacco at times. It shifts intensity as though it had colors.

It has been many decades since experiencing patchouli like this. I'm glad a friend recommended it.

Basic. Withstands the heat of summer.
14th July, 2018
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Galop d'Hermès by Hermès

Gorgeous balance of rose and leather. This is one that smells different on the paper than on the skin. Both the rose and leather hug the skin and have a perfect balance of both - one may come out to play more pending the heat and environment, but doesn't overpower at all.

I mirror what Kotori states about the blotters touching Galop - I sprayed Galop on the blotter and placed it in my handbag along with others and my handbag still smells like Galop two weeks later, although a milder lingering hint of it.
14th July, 2018

Aqua Allegoria Rosa Pop by Guerlain

Dear Guerlain - I'd appreciate it if you'd keep in your collection one of the Aqua Allegoria's that contains peony notes. First you bring Pivoine Magnifica out and then discontinue it, and now Rosa Pop has been discontinued. Rosa Pop filled the void for me that Pivoine Magnifica did - bubbly, bright, crisp and that peony note!

Rosa Pop was an unexpected find that was too late. Get this one if you can.
14th July, 2018

Aqua Allegoria Limon Verde by Guerlain

Very bright and crisp lemon top notes. Unlike other Aqua Allegoria perfumes, this one has decent longevity (3-4 hours give or take) in high heat and humidity. Colder weather it will come across as brash, but perfect for spring/summer and environments that are warm.

Don't douse too much on and you run the the risk of smelling like kitchen/bathroom cleaner.

Bright lemony perfumes are not my cup of tea, but it's a nice change to smell this among all the chocolate/gourmand scents out there - its a clear light in the fog and haze.
14th July, 2018

Feu Secret by Bruno Fazzolari

Artistic. Leans towards masculine. My husband likes it and he is not a frag-head.

Cool, dewy orris and birch beginning. A tiny bit of spice. The eucalyptus is fresh without being medicinal. The base is a powdery wood but does not lean towards the feminine.

This works in summer heat. It is never cloying. Well done!
14th July, 2018

Moonlight in Heaven by By Kilian

A little citrus and pepper in the opening that quickly gives way to a clean, creamy coconut scent as it dries down. This is not a full-on coconut scent but it's definitely there. It's more like the soft, creamy scent you smell in high-end hotels mixed with a little coconut. I’m getting some soft florals but it's not heavily feminine.

Feels like a daytime, casual scent to me.

Projection is light but the scent lasts 8-10 hours.
14th July, 2018

Solo Loewe by Loewe

Very good light refreshing masculine fragrance. Citrus without being overly citrusy while still tangy. Why can't Hermes do this? Wear anywhere anytime but in cold weather go for Loewe 7 Anonimo (which is a poor mans Amouage Journey Man). Longevity could be better. After a couple of hours the fresh citrus had all but evaporated leaving a light pink pepper rather like an expensive fragranced tissue wipe which in my opinion points towards cost cutting and saving on imagination over-utilisation by Loewe but at least its pink pepper rather than the acrid - I can't imagine anyone genuinely liking this laziness of attitude or smell- get up your nose peppers used as a base in a lot of other fragrances.

Fragrance: 7.75/10
Projection: 7.5/10
Longevity 6.75/10
13th July, 2018

Tacit by Aesop

A nice summery vetiver. There's a citrus open which I find fairly fleeting and then a move through a crisp green phase (the notes say basil but I don't get that specifically) and then a grassy vetiver dry-down.

Very little sillage / projection but a nice vetiver freshy for the summer months.
13th July, 2018

Eiderantler by January Scent Project

Eiderantler (love the name) is mostly a lavender fragrance on my skin. Unfortunately it seems to contain sweet vanilla and a kind of musk which I don't really like. Thus it is not my kind of fragrance. However, try it out for yourself.
13th July, 2018

Vaporocindro by January Scent Project

All of the January fragrances are interesting and unique. Vaporocindro opens with a floral statement possibly with narcissus and lilac and with brown spices and musk on the side. The florals later withdraw and the stage is set for a musky/spicy dry down.

It is unique and quite beautiful and rather long lasting. Unisex.
13th July, 2018

L'Envol Eau de Toilette by Cartier

Honey money watch and wallet
Drink it breathe it eat it call it

TJ blind buy holy grailer
Cinematic mind-blown trailer

Blame it on the guaiac wood
Not like perfume's understood

Rocked my world with E D P
Rubble bounced with E D T

Beehive royal ovulation
Citric chypre combination

Feel that smell?
Ev'rywhere

All day long
It's stll there

Magic moment music maker
Melifluent fluid faker

Mead messiah Maid Mathilde
Your ambrosia now my shield

Nervous system integration
Ol' factory fascination

'Lectric lightbulb limbic wires
'Lumined laser's lathing fires

Nervibronic frequintessence
Kleptron bro-san moss fluorescence

Sense the ghost note mystery
Au Ra buzzing like a bee

Apparatus bulbous bottle
Knurly nozzle metal throttle

Spray some lose some smell some more
Win some bin some 'til you score

Cartieric pillarama
Field emergent left-turn drama

Paper loser tragedy
Eye of skin required to see

Fibonacci Cart coorsive
Etchy sketchy steely forcive

Terre d'Hermèsive collar nut
Twist it wrong to close it shut

One-piece flash lamp flask for flanker
Paperweightish twist-top tanker

Lovely liquid light deluxe
Lampy dampy ampy flux

Vaporescent ourobori
Bumpy clumpy 'lectric tori

Close the bottle 'round their wires
Silence vapor's thermal lyres

Thank the Maker for this making
Meadful mother's liquor's faking

Raise a glass or bottle downed
Here's to one more 'lightful round.
13th July, 2018

Signet by Avon

Signet by Avon (1987) is another "nobody knows and nobody really cares" masculine from the Malaise era of Avon, that 80's to mid 90's period when Avon was so flush with cash from the booming 50's through 70's heyday that they were too busy rubbing elbows with celebrities and other industry giants to be bothered researching and developing exciting products. This period of Avon is identified by a distinctly out-of-step selection of fragrances, more so on the then increasingly-neglected men's side then on the women's, since the American working class ladies still loved their Avon makeup and perfume, so the company had more incentive to put forth the effort to at least fake it there. Avon has always been apt to roll out "catalog pork" even in the old days: scents very close to what style was popular, or had been popular in the high-end segment a few years earlier became ripe for bringing downmarket. 1960's and 1970's Avon for Men (as it was called before Avon finally dropped the sublabel at the end of the 70's) was very solid, if humble in style. However, the Avon men's segment had taken a creative nosedive at the start of the 80's, with the house copying drugstore styles instead of high-end ones and making bizarre tie-ins like the Jeep CJ cologne (1983). Avon began working with designers and celebs wanting to break into fragrance, a practice that eventually became common in the industry decades later, at the cost of their own brand identity. 1985 saw Avon produce (and distribute via catalog) Louis Féraud's debut scents, while the year Signet released saw Avon buy Giorgio Beverly Hills, which would go on to make fragrances in the 80's and 90s under Avon stewardship. This meant Avon-labelled perfume floundered, and Signet is a more charming-than-expected example.

Signet was the first real masculine push from Avon's in-house brand since 1982's Cordovan, which itself was a delightful rosy and ambery 70's aromatic fougère that felt like a more romantic cousin to the Halston twins. Signet shoots strait for the early 80's "alpha male" powerhouse style, Avon's typical "Johnny come lately" debut in that vein, if we disqualified Féraud Pour Homme (1985) since it didn't carry an Avon badge on the bottle. I feel like Signet was really targeting Yves Saint Laurent and Bogart in it's opening, as it's a huge bergamot and muguet blast that instantly screams Kouros (1981), but swaps in the jasmine, fir, and castoreum of One Man Show (1980) in the middle. The base note structure is very light-handed naturally, because it is still Avon and limited to eau de cologne strength, but there's still a bite of real oakmoss, cedar, musk, and that ever-present Avon amber note. The opening is a dead ringer for a bastard child of Kouros and One Man Show, which is a similar quirky methodology Avon would repeat with the Cool Water (1988) and Eternity for Men (1989) splicing found in Triumph for Men (1995). The soft whimpering dry down is the thing here that keeps Avon Signet from attaining true glory, but I guess the idea was frequent reapplication and repurchase back in the day, something which proves impractical 3 decades later now that the stuff is long-discontinued vintage stock and is non-renewable. Signet is certainly the manliest thing to come from Avon in years since Avon Leather (1966), and just like it, will prove to be a challenging wear in polite environs. Signet isn't strong enough to get you in trouble outside the copy-pasted urinal cake opening it borrows from YSL, but until it hits that quiet Avon amber base, you might want to avoid office mingling.

Avon Malaise would see a few more oddball releases, and another attempted budget powerhouse in the form of Legacy for Men (1988), a scent with the distinction of being an early work of Ann Gottlieb. Signet doesn't carry quite the same pedigree as it's nose is unknown, like the bulk of Avon, but was subcontracted out to a chemist firm like most other commercial perfume houses since Avon ditched the traditional in-house perfume staff model after the end of the 70's, meaning somebody from Givaudan, IFF, etc. is to blame for this, so fess up!! All jokes aside, Signet does satisfy a certain curiosity about why Avon never made any real powerhouses during the 80's and just stuck to mild barbershop tropes long after they had lost favor, and the answer is in Signet's performance; the stuff just feels cut off at the knees, like a bad downmarket modern reform of a classic masculine. I'm sure working stiffs with no cash for YSL nor knowledge about perfume otherwise thought this was canned heat with a dose of greased lightning back in the day, much like they did with the Aramis-like Avon Clint (1976) a decade beforehand. Original pour bottles of Signet have a neat removable plate that can be engraved (or could come engraved from Avon at an added charge), which is likely a gimmick they stole from Ralph Lauren Monogram (1985). Signet also came in a full toiletry suite like most Avon men's fragrance, and had one of the earliest examples of the Avon "pill bottle" 3oz spray that the house started dumping current at first, then past masculines into (and still does in some markets), which is a better option if you hate hand application.
Signet is another "collectors only" vintage Avon because a powerhouse lacking power can only appeal to so many (not even shirt sprays fix the scent's fast track to anosmia thanks to the amber), but it certainly is interesting!
13th July, 2018

Blu Mediterraneo Bergamotto di Calabria by Acqua di Parma

Very light, refreshing lemon citrus in the opening mixed with floral notes for a very clean and unisex effect. The florals continue into the drydown mixed with a soft musk, making this lean more feminine to me. In the final phase, I get mostly soft musk and vetiver which is pretty nice and not as feminine.

Performance is interesting as the projection is below average during the entire development but I actually got all workday longevity. I sprayed on my clothes and that seemed to help a lot.
13th July, 2018

Casamorati 1888 Mefisto by Xerjoff

very similar to SMW but , to my nose , much better...more robust and leaning toward the yang/dark side , which I like...SMW is more airy/metallic/aquatic...perfect blend of citrus/flower/wood...a lot better longevity and projection also...smells solid and well blended and put together...
13th July, 2018

Best by Lomani

Lomani is something of a cult Parisian fragrance house that is known for it's cheapo masculines that have remarkable style even if they lack somewhat in the performance department. The one that started it all, Lomani Pour Homme (1987), is a soapy barbershop fougère that follows in the footsteps of Drakkar Noir (1982), but unlike so many that also did similar, gets accused of being an attempted clone, when it is in fact less similar to Drakkar Noir than several of it's peers that don't get the same accusation. I feel much of this has to do with the Lomani price point and misinformation, but regardless, the eponymous debut scent carved out the path of an underdog hero which facilitated not only this follow up from the same year, but also the erection of an entire house in time. Best by Lomani (1987) is obviously not an appropriately-named sophomore effort, because even people in the know about Lomani Pour Homme often haven't heard of it, so how can it be their finest hour? Lomani would release so much stuff, some original, some near-clones, that they unintentionally drowned Best in an ocean of meh. The fragrance feels sort of like the darker, muskier, more mature brother to Lomani Pour Homme, almost like both formulae were made at the same time a la Halston and it's Z-14 and 112 (1976), but given distinctly different packaging unlike Halston, and staggered by a few months apart. Lomani Pour Homme would appeal to the crowd looking for fresh and clean, while Best would appeal to a more mature audience still seeking aromatic scents like Van Cleef & Arpels Pour Homme (1978). Best plays out much like a marriage between something such as the aforementioned VC&A scent and the debut Calvin Klein masculine called Calvin (1981), with touches of castoreum and fir like Bogart One Man Show (1980) and the later Rochas Globe (1991), not that it's as high-quality as any of those.

Best opens with some interesting 3-way citrus action of bergamot, lemon, and mandarin in the top, bringing it a semi-oriental vibe with the sweet mandarin especially, giving Best a fruity countenance usually reserved for oriental masculines, but rather than commit to that path, it heads down the fougère road like Lomani Pour Homme with lavender, balsam fir, and an herbal composite "fern" accord that reminds me of the orris in Paco Rabanne most. Comparisons to One Man Show and Globe also start near the middle, but the fougère/oriental/powerhouse hybridism of Best gets even stranger when the base comes on, as a train wreck of notes hits you in the face, almost nauseous at first until they calm down. The final drydown shows the inexperience of whoever composed this and the lack of quality control on the house's part, but considering it's under $10 (cheaper than an Arden or Avon), this can be forgiven slightly. Sandalwood, cedar, pine, patchouli, vetiver, cinnamon, ginger, amber, and musk are all touted to be in this. The last 4 definitely are, but the rest are just in a barf bag jumble until they calm down, turning Best into a spicy, fruity, musky and leathery coumarin bath with hints of clove and castoreum that brings in the Calvin comparison with the musk, but with a fraction of the budget and half the strength. Best is an enjoyable scent once all the chips fall, but that last transition from midddle to base is so clumsy and over-stuffed that it's almost offensive, making the scent a nice opener, but then queasy and almost scrub-worthy, until it redeems itself at the end with a smooth finish. If you don't mind a little bit of challenge in your fragrance, or are just masochistic, you probably won't take issue with this, but having a fragrance that is pleasant then really unpleasant, and finally pleasant again just works my anxiety a bit and makes me deduct points. Spraying on shirt keeps top notes around longer, so like with Lomani Pour Homme, doing so corrects some of Best's issues (which in this case is the dry down and not the longevity).

Ultimately, the way I approach Best is like a great song with a terrible guitar solo: the singer and rhythm section are on point, but when the lead guitarist steps out, it's just wammy bar and random dive bombs without any real fretwork, which is what the transition from fougère-like middle to whatever that is in the base feels like to me. You wait out the cacophony until the final refrain emerges and the song gets on with itself, which is what happens once Best stops trying to be a Swiss army knife of aromatic proportions on a Kmart budget and just settles into being the cheap guilty pleasure masculine spicy musk it's touted to be. Best is still soapy like Lomani Pour Homme, but is for the guy that wants some virility with his soap, but couldn't shell out for the big boys back in the day, or still can't in modern times because all his favorites are discontinued and astronomical in price, so he wears this instead. Best by Lomani is a misnomer because it reeks of settling for less, unlike Lomani Pour Homme, which actually tried to be a low-priced but competent competitor in it's genre and succeeded. Despite the tough love, I still like Best and give it a thumbs up, but only because it's dark broody Victorian style is gradually becoming extinct outside a few niche selections, and it's one of the few easily-accessed surviving examples of it's kind. Best by Lomani in the 21st century has transformed from an inferior devotee of stronger specimens, to an affordable window to a forgotten time when guys wanted to reek of soap, spice, peat moss, animal funk and musk. It smelled like 1978 on a budget in 1987, and now it just smells deeply esoteric if a bit hairy in that final transitory phase to the musk. A fascinating cheapie, not an everyday scent, and probably not something to wear in social settings, unless we're talking about the Middle East, where Lomani is actually competitive with giants like Coty.
12th July, 2018

Bracken Man by Amouage

The opening smells like a soapy, winter holiday memory, maybe even a little medicinal. Cool green (cypress) notes mixed with the cloves and nutmeg give it the North American "holidays" feel. Wife said I smelled like pine cones, but not in a bad way, ha!

Not a favorite of mine but it is nice, clean and pleasing. Feels more dressed up than casual but otherwise, should be versatile any different temperatures because of the cool, cleanness. Also, seems pretty linear on me after the brighter top notes fade off.

I get good projection during the first 4-5 hours. The skin scent lasts all workday.
12th July, 2018

Cardinal by Heeley

one of the lightest and most refreshing incense fragrances I've smelled...a lot of nice little nuances...but overall a very nice and fragrant churchy smell, but very subdued and gentle...I like it a lot...an incense you can probably get away with wearing to the office....
12th July, 2018
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Bentley for Men Azure by Bentley

The Bentley Azure, sister car to Rolls' Corniche, is a coupe convertible of the greatest luxury. As both names suggest, this is a car to be driven along beautiful coastal roads, the blue of the sun-drenched sky mirroring the blue of the sea. So it is natural that when Bentley started building out its fragrance collection, that their fresh, oceanic offering would bear the name of this famous car. And oceanic it is-the Orcanox/Ambroxin sees to that, with fresh notes of pineapple and a violet leaf reminiscent of Aventus and Green Irish Tweed in the top notes, sage and lavender in the middle notes and Tonka joining the Orcanox in the finish.

Azure brings nothing new to the table but is beautifully done-as all of the Bentley fragrances tend to be-and a welcome addition to any line up of warm weather workhorses. Very good performance for a fresh aquatic scent with a passing resemblance to many of Creed's offerings-these same notes are almost house notes at Creed. You may not live within striking distance of the seaside (and may not have a luxury convertible to drive there even if you did) but Bentley Azure has a fresh yet luxurious air to it that brings a little shoreline elegance into each wearing, wherever you may be. The bottle is crazily close to Ferragamo's Subtil which is interesting since that is another perfect example of a fresh yet luxurious designer scent done right.
11th July, 2018 (last edited: 14th July, 2018)
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