Fragrance Reviews from June 2010

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    Larimar's avatar

    Austria Austria

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    1725 Casanova by Histoires de Parfums

    I nearly dismissed this as "soft-spoken" or "unspectacular". Fortunately, my sample lasted long enough and it grew on me. Eventually, I was seduced by this heavenly vanilla-anise accord. It fits the image or title very well as Diamondflame points out in his review. I think of this as a classic and reserved alternative to Le Male (which I like, BTW). To me both their main accords work technically very similarly. This is a seducing, overly pleasant and so very well done fragrance. I bought a bottle of it. The whole Histoires de Parfums line is definitely worth exploring in depth. A big thumbs up!

    01st June, 2010

    squidge123's avatar

    England England

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    Dzongkha by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    This is my first post so take it easy on me...Dzongkha is my second flirtation with L'AP after Timbuktu. I would not dare to try to define specific notes of this fragrance so I will go for the overall feeling.. It is bang on what fires for me in a Tomato Juice called BigTom (http://www.bigtom.co.uk/ingredients/) sold in the UK. That is not to be detrimental to the fragrance (I love it). It must be the mixture of the ingredients used, I think it could well be the Cayenne pepper that hits me most. Scrummy!

    01st June, 2010

    JeanieE's avatar

    United States United States

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    Bijan Wicked for Women by Bijan

    Top note is pure Bourbon, so prepare to have fun in this one! Maybe that is the red current? Called a floral chypre, I actually don't get so much floral (although I don't know what blue lotus is supposed to smell like) as Bergamot top to mid and beautifully blended base of vetiver, patchouli, and amber. A sexy, "wicked" fragrance, I'd choose it for a mischievous, humid, summer night out with the girls.

    01st June, 2010 (Last Edited: 21st August, 2010)

    dredreson's avatar



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    Polo Black by Ralph Lauren

    The scent is absolutely fantastic, just wish it was stronger, last longer, and projected more. I get about 3-4 hours on my skin. Im going to try out Polo Double Black.

    01st June, 2010

    Jones.'s avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Culture by Tabac by Mäurer & Wirtz

    Revision of my earlier review under same username: this fragrance is not how I remembered it.
    I managed to get some of this from Australia or somewhere, I was ecstatic at the time.
    But no, this scent is not me anymore... too musky/manly and melony.
    Who changed the pyramid after Foetidus's review? He said musk was listed.

    01st June, 2010

    Jones.'s avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Iceberg Twice Homme by Iceberg

    Cheap, so cheap to buy!
    I bought this for the mint ingredient and it is minty, all-day minty-ness.

    The jasmine is too strong however, swamping the other notes... I would prefer to smell the herb mid-notes that are listed here. And the base ones, but my nose is not too sensitive to subtleties... they may be in there somewhere.

    Recommended for office wear. A few sprays in the morning will hold you all day.

    If you want to know what this smells like - grab a pack of Double-mint gum (the sticks in foil) and sniff that. It is as sweet as icing sugar, this fragrance.

    01st June, 2010

    Sugandaraja's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Pois de Senteur de Chez Moi by Caron

    For those seeking an authentic sweet pea fragrance, you can safely give this a miss. Like many old-fashioned florals, this is more of a perfumey, abstract floral than something that smells like an actual flower of some kind. The florals are more vibrant initially, just the faintest hint of pineapple edge on rose jasmine, more so rose, and very, very powdery; the latter quality increasing with each hour. It's a very heavy fragrance, almost waxy in some ways. I this sense, the only fragrance I can directly compare it to is Amouage's Gold for women.

    It's deep and nuanced, to be sure, but I can't help but feel it's one of less distinctive Caron parfums, and the potential dark intrigue innate to most of the urn parfums is safely tucked away under a dowdy blanket of floral talc.

    02nd June, 2010

    soirdelune's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    L'Eau des Hesperides by Diptyque

    Citrus, bitter herbs, and plankton. Urgh.

    02nd June, 2010

    Barocco's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    L'Autre by Diptyque

    I am very much in the minority....too.
    I like this perfume that brings me back to my childhood among boiling French polish pots in furniture restaurateurs' laboratories (but more old and dark indeed), among smells of old woods sawdust and withe spirit. Than arises the cumin, the saffron (that my grandma put in her "risotto") and the woods become rounded, but still heavy, with a little of a week old shirt indeed...
    any way I like it, brings me comfort and good remembrance for a while and then the perception of doing well.
    (sorry for my rudimentary English, I would like to express more...)


    02nd June, 2010

    shamu1's avatar

    United States United States

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    Michael for Men by Michael Kors


    I did NOT expect something so bold, so in your face as this fragrance from a designer like Michael Kors. Don't be fooled into thinking that just because this scent is in every mainstream department store that it's a mainstream fragrance. It's not.

    This is a heavy, boozy, strong patchouli and tobacco fragrance that I might go so far as to describe as a modern-day powerhouse. Michael Kors for Men could easily have been relased in 1979, alongside the original Calvin, a scent with which I find it has much in common. This literally smells like burnt cigar butts mixed with Scotch whiskey, patchouli and amber. It's a macho frag with real balls.

    My one complaint, and it's a big one, is that it is poorly blended. It smells like the perfumer just picked the heaviest, most macho smelling perfume oils he could find, and poured them into a bottle, with little regard for overall balance. The middle accord smells like a dense wall of cigars and patchouli. The drydown is a little bit smoother because the sweet oriental base sets in, but it still smells dense and clumsy. Michael for Men is like a cinder block of scent.

    Despite this complaint, I have to give this a thumbs up because it is so bold and unashamedly masculine. It bucks all of the current designer and niche fragrance fads, and I respect that. And most importantly, even though it's not at all polished, Michael for Men does smell very good.

    02nd June, 2010

    shamu1's avatar

    United States United States

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    Swiss Army by Swiss Army


    I give Swiss Army a lukewarm thumbs up. I do so because there is no originality at all in this. It's basically another Cool Water clone that tries to set itself apart from other Cool Water clones by having mossy green notes blended into the mix. It's a combination that actually works well, even though it doesn't make it particularly unique. The green notes actually bring Swiss Army a little closer to a traditional fougere smell, and I like that, even though at its heart this is still a Cool Water-styled modern fougere. It's the kind of cologne that I wouldn't go out of my way to buy, but if I saw it at Marshalls for like ten bucks, I'd buy it and wear it once in a while.

    Overall, Swiss Army is a pleasant and safe fragrance, and is comfortable to wear. It smells good and will smell familiar to everyone around you. Because of that, it's the type of scent that will likely inspire people to tell you that you smell nice. And what's wrong with that?

    02nd June, 2010

    shamu1's avatar

    United States United States

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    Tommy by Tommy Hilfiger

    I remember hating Tommy when it was first released. By that time, Cool Water had already been released and its clones had started to clog the department store shelves. I thought Tommy smelled wimpy, boring and androgynous.

    Fifteen years later, I've just re-sampled Tommy and I'm actually enjoying it now. I think this has been reformulated. I remember smelling apples in Tommy when it first came out, but the apple smell is gone now. This is still a quasi-acquatic, "fresh" fragrance, but it's different from the current crop of fresh scents because it has a prominent peppery wood accord on top of the freshness. It's not the irritating, cheap metallic woody amber you smell in so many of today's awful "fresh" scents, but a rather natural smelling black pepper and dry wood accord. Maybe this wasn't so amazing back in the 1990s, but today it smells unique and rather bold and spicy for this type of scent. Funny, I don't remember thinking of Tommy as being a spicy scent at all back in '95, but time away from something can change my mind for the better.

    I never thought I'd be on record saying this, but I can actually see myself buying this and wearing it. Thumbs up now.

    02nd June, 2010

    Purveyor of fine scents's avatar



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    Vetiver by Guerlain

    Smells like most retirement homes. Maybe I'll like it in 20 years.

    02nd June, 2010

    Primrose's avatar

    United States United States

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    Royal Delight by Creed


    Apart from the name of this fragrance sounding like a rich and rare desert, this is truly a delight to wear. It is NOT, however, recommended for a blind buy, as it is a love-it-or-hate-it scent. This scent is very bold and not for the shy. I find Royal Delight perfect for when I want a sweet, leathery vanilla floral. It is truly enjoyable with its subtle sweetness. It can be worn in cold weather, but also in warmer weather when its cheerful and rich scent is a departure from all things floral-citrus. It has good longevity and moderate sillage. I find the word "rich" coming to mind--not as in "rich," as the presumed aristocrats who patronised the House of Creed, but rich in the sense that it satisfies the sense of smell the way a vanilla-and-creme dessert satisfies one's sweet tooth after a meal. If sweet vanilla florals are to your liking, then Royal Delight should be on your must-try list.

    02nd June, 2010

    Primrose's avatar

    United States United States

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    Cuir Ottoman by Parfum d'Empire

    Cuir Ottoman is, hands down, my all-time favourite leather floral. I would rank this with my love for Chanel's Cuir de Russie. Cuir Otttoman has a true leather scent (as others have noted) mixed with florals. The leather note at the top stands apart from the jasmine and iris, then warms down to a very subtle vanilla/benzoin. Longevity and sillage are both good and I find most eau de parfum offerings from Parfum d'Empire to be of this quality.

    02nd June, 2010

    Primrose's avatar

    United States United States

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    Fougère Bengale by Parfum d'Empire

    With the ad copy talking of dandies and tobacco, I so much wanted to love Fougere Bengale. I liked the lavender and immortelle, but could not get past the "curry" note, which I found unsettling.

    02nd June, 2010

    TropiRock's avatar

    United States United States

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    Eau de Campagne by Sisley

    Opens with a sharp-but-pleasant citrus intro, then quickly evolves into a vetiver-dominated and to me, quite humdrum event. There are grassy fragrances out there that are much longer lasting (expect about 2-3 hours from Eau de Campagne, ridiculously brief). Some of those same grassy fragrances cost a fraction of EdC, so why waste your money? Azzaro's Pure Vetiver has a near-identical drydown, can be purchased dirt cheap, and lasts far longer than this one. I usually enjoy Ellena's green twist on his creations, but this is not one of his best. Maybe he was tired that day, and produced a resultantly tired cologne. This is not a cheap fragrance and given it's slam-bam-thank-you-maam lifespan, I'm being generous with a neutral rating.

    02nd June, 2010

    Adesor's avatar

    Hong Kong Hong Kong

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    Green Irish Tweed by Creed

    after so many discussions on basenotes, decide to give it a serious go and bought a small bottle and wearing it now for few days.

    It smells very frresh, classy green. Works for office, casual out, night out... very universal so to say
    Longevity: I get full force 4-5 hours. Thereafter it gets a pleasant close to skin frag. People can still smell it on you even 10 hours later if they come very close to you.
    Sillage: first 3hours, then its gone.

    overall rating: If you look for a gentleman's green smell.. GIT is a good choice!

    Does it smell like Cool Water: NO!
    Cool Water smells right from the beginning "Sweet and Aqautic".
    GIT smells "Green and Fresh Herbal"

    To me they are different...!

    02nd June, 2010

    granola357's avatar

    United States United States

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    Futur by Robert Piguet

    There's not much I can say that Off-Scenter didn't say express better than I could, but here's my take. This is a very unusual scent: it does smell "modern" but at the same time it also feels like a vintage composition because it's so rich and complex compared to most of today's scents. Futur definitely starts off extremely green, in a way that almost brings Estee Lauder's original Private Collection to mind. It's a delicious note, well described by Jardenel. It then moves into a floral-woody base, with the woods becoming increasingly dominant as time passes.The ending features a surprisingly spicy note that I haven't identified.

    The most surprising thing to me about this composition is how quiet and subdued it is: this fragrance does NOT scream. It's mellow in its richness, and brings to my mind a green deciduous forest on the East Coast in the middle of July, dark and mysterious, but not somber, as a result of the leaves filtering the sunlight out. It's so subdued, in fact, that you might want the EdP over the parfum because the sprayer will have greater impact.

    As to gender, I think this is perfectly wearable by men. The florals are not of the "feminine" type (by this I mean white flowers or sugary rose) and are mainly in a supporting role. It's less overtly floral than my other favorite green fragrance, Guerlain's Chamade, or the aldehydic Chanel no. 19.

    02nd June, 2010

    upsilon's avatar

    United States United States

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    Vetyver / Vétiver by Givenchy

    A pleasant, sharper, older smelling version of Guerlain's Vetiver. It doesn't have the wearability of other versions of the Vetiver note, rather it is a serious scent reserved for a conservative clientele. An excellent choice for the 40+ crowd looking for something classic. The earlier reviewer's story of past generation Brazilian businessmen wearing this fragrance seems perfectly job and age appropriate.

    02nd June, 2010

    upsilon's avatar

    United States United States

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    Sel Marin by Heeley

    An unpleasant, headache inducing, saltwater scented concoction. If this didn't have a niche label attached to it there is no way it would be able to see the light of day as an acceptable scent for everyday wear. That being said, I suppose there is a place for bizarre and unpleasant scents, and niche is probably it.

    The development is pretty straight forward; an unmistakable, chemically alkaline base with a top of random citrus, no further development until fadeaway. Total longevity is decent, four-five hours. There are plenty of other aquatics to spend your money on, try before you buy for sure!

    02nd June, 2010

    mumsy's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Gold Man by Amouage

    I'm not prone to reviewing, but how on earth did this fragrance manage to have the reputation this one has? A ghastly first citric, catty blast, followed by a catty talcum powder with a more gentle jumble of florals, phase. Then a pleasant enough drydown of spicy, incensy notes. I'm detecting some fruity, plummy, strawberry sort of notes too lurking in the background.

    I could see this on a woman perhaps when wearing maximum amounts of gold, flashy leopardskin stretchy clothing, fur and dyed hair. I cannot imagine it on a man until at least halfway through the drydown.

    I fail to see what the fuss and the price is about. It proves the power of marketing to me. I would prefer to smell of many other things. Much too fussy and powdery a perfume for my taste, but my skin does bring out the darker side of perfumes.

    02nd June, 2010

    JeanieE's avatar

    United States United States

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    Allure Eau de Toilette by Chanel

    Yes, it is really multi-faceted, isn't it? Can something really be "simply...complex?" Um hm. Allure is that. Really, really pretty. Wears well, too. Lasts.

    02nd June, 2010

    JeanieE's avatar

    United States United States

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    Pure Grace by Philosophy

    Soap-and-water scents appeal to me: this one makes you go, "Awww how pretty!" as soon as you spritz. Really cool how that soapy, clean note starts and stays: can't decide if it is a pervasive top note or a really early heart note; and, heck, could swear it stays right through to its base note, to boot! Doesn't last very long, but I really enjoyed how the showery, clean scent developed and swelled when I worked out in the heat a bit: it somehow made the sweating more tolerable. I guess because I still smelled clean.

    02nd June, 2010

    jujubean770's avatar



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    Green Irish Tweed by Creed

    A true work of art!!!!!! After about 6 years of wearing GIT, it still happens to be my absolute favorite fragrance of all time. Can't wait for Creed to release Aventis!!!!!

    02nd June, 2010

    Bronx Brawler's avatar



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    Platinum Égoïste by Chanel

    This smells very acidic, salty and corrosive like the sweat from someone who ate a ton of garlic, drank cheap alcohol and then danced to the tune of "What is Love? Baby don't hurt me..." all night long in a tight nylon T shirt. I can see this being the favorite of club boys of the "Jersey shore" persuasion. Olfactory Fail.

    02nd June, 2010

    paolo74's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Bulgari pour Homme Extreme by Bulgari

    Green, Woody, and very sexy. It's the better choice for hot summer.

    03rd June, 2010

    Quarry's avatar

    United States United States

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    Barynia by Helena Rubinstein

    There’s “perfumey” good and there’s “perfumey” bad. This is perfumey good. Barynia (which means lady of the manor or mistress of the estate in Russian) is a rich floral with a bit of natural sweetness and that appeals to me very much. I'm reminded of two favorites (Dunay Sabi and Guerlain With Love) which, if I didn't have them, I'd be turning to Barynia often.

    03rd June, 2010

    Doctor Mod's avatar

    United States United States

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    L'Instant de Guerlain by Guerlain

    I would be the first to tell one of my students that "I don't like it--it's weird" is not a valid argument and so must avoid falling into that trap myself. And it wouldn't be completely true if I said "I don't like it," as it's not a really BAD perfume by a longshot. Still, there's a certain element of this fragrance--je nais se quoi--that I find off-putting.

    Let me state my biases up front. I'm a long-time devotee of the traditional Guerlains--I started wearing the worldly L'Heure Bleue at the grand old age of nineteen because it appealed to my then hyperimaginative aesthetic sensibilities. (This was my rite de passage from Yardley Oh! de London, so I obviously skipped a few grades in perfumes just as I had in school.) It is possible that I just can't surrender myself to L'Instant because, as some have noted, *it just doesn't smell like a Guerlain.* (What is this world coming to?) It strikes me as just another pseudo-floral in a world that already has too many.

    What I mean by terming it a pseudo-floral is that the floral notes don't come close to replicating the fragrance of any actual flower. It shares this quality with many recent formulations, and I think of it as the less interesting cousin of Lanvin's Rumeur (which doesn't smell like a Lanvin, for that matter). I like the smell of magnolia well enough--when it's on a tree. To me, this is not a convincing replication of that scent. (Nor is the dreaded Rumeur that convincing, for that matter, though it comes much closer to being recognizable.) I suppose that's where the "it's weird" factor comes in. As with many newer fragrances, I smell this and think "I have no idea what this smell is." I also have no idea how anyone imagines L'Instant amounts to a floral oriental, as it seems to lack any specific "oriental" quality.

    But having put up the opposition between L'Instant and Rumeur, let me continue on to my point. There are a lot of people who hate hate hate Rumeur, and I fully understand why--it's aggressive, even bombastic, and it you might be able to kill certain lifeforms within a six block radius when you wear it. It's a perfume that virtually encourages a significant number of smellers to dislike it actively. (But that's the perverse reason why I almost like it.) L'Instant, in spite of some similarites, just isn't sufficiently unique or extraordinary enough to hate.

    And perhaps that's just what offends me. For nearly forty years Guerlain has been, to my mind, the paragon of the art of perfumery. It wouldn't bother me if Guerlain made a fragrance I could actively dislike--Jicky strikes me as aggressive, overbearing, and somewhat unpleasant yet I will wear it if I am in a particularly perverse mood just as I have the considerably less expensive Rumeur. But it does offend me that the legendary Guerlain would do something that makes me ask "Why bother?"

    03rd June, 2010

    Doctor Mod's avatar

    United States United States

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    parfums*PARFUMS Series 3 Incense: Zagorsk by Comme des Garçons

    Zagorsk is, to say the least, a unique fragrance. Of the Series 3 Incense scents, it not what one would usually expect an "incense" parfume to be. It is not exactly smoky; rather, it reminds me of a carved Asian box or chest lined with aromatic woods. My mind here jumps to bed linens that have been stored in a cedar chest. Bitter and woodsy, it has the "cold" resonances that so many reviewers have noted and thus evokes images of walking through an idealized Siberian forest.

    It is a glorious scent for those who can embody it. For my own part, I'd love to have a wood-line closet that smells like this, but there's a note I can't quite pin down that makes it an uncomfortable fragrance to wear. It is also not a terribly sensuous perfumes, but it is not quite transcendent enough to create a spiritual aura--at least not for me. The sillage, though quite good at first, quickly dies down to a body scent that lasts about four hours. An interesting idea, and wonderful for those who can actually wear it.

    03rd June, 2010

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