Fragrance Reviews from June 2010

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    Doctor Mod's avatar
    Doctor Mod
    United States United States

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    Cruel Intentions by By Kilian

    There is more to Cruel Intentions than the notes listed above. According to LuckyScent, the full list of notes is: Bergamot calabria oil, orange blossom oil, violet accord, centifolia rose absolute, agarwood, Indian papyrus oil, gaiacwood oil, Haiti vetiver oil, sandalwood, styrax absolute, castoreum absolute, vanilla absolute, musk--quite a plethora of exotic and expensive ingredients.

    My first impression of this scent was that of a typical woody oriental--with a bit of barbershop thrown in. Nothing remotely "cruel" about it. The citrus notes glow briefly. This fragrance, though, is anything but linear, and its first shift was to something a bit "dirty" (as others have noted) yet not quite absolutely skanky. This phase passes quickly, as the fragrance evolves into a voluptuous, creamy melange with the woods dominating the florals. Although I was underwhelmed at first sniff, by this point I was becoming quite intrigued. There is something in the blend--not just one particular note but rather the blend as an entity unto itself--that reminds me of classic French haute parfumerie. It is not so much that it reminds me of this Caron or that Guerlain--for it certainly doesn't--but rather that it possesses a sensuality and something close to grandiosity that evokes the perfumes of yesteryear.

    It would have been wonderful if its longevity were a bit more potent. The sillage was impressive (but not overbearing) for about three hours on me, after which there was a significant decrease. It has nonetheless stayed with me for nearly seven hours now, more than a mere skin scent but very subtle.

    It is not the masterpiece that Back to Black is. But, then again, to improve on that fragrance would be a most difficult task. Cruel Intentions is much more subtle. Through most of the time that I've worn it this evening, I continued to tell myself that it's lovely, but not worth $200+. But now I'm so enthralled with it and so sorry to sense it fading that I'm beginning to think that it just might be.

    That it has made me love it and made me feel (on some slightly insane level) that I can't live without it--well, perhaps that was the Cruel Intention after all.

    22 June, 2010

    Nostalgie's avatar
    Nostalgie
    United States United States

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    Eau de Paradis by Biotherm

    Never say never.
    Fruity and fruity floral fragrances don' work for me.
    Freesia, red fruits and berries are on the the top of my short list of no-no notes.
    As a result, I did not seek this one out. But when I restocked my supply of Biotherm skin products, I selected Eau de Paradis as my free sample.

    I am surprisingly drawn to this fresh, juicy, slightly (just slightly) sweet fragrance.--the way I'm drawn to crispy, dry French rosés in the summer. Maybe it is the weather (95 degrees F and humid ); I've been splashing from my sample bottle each morning and my FB is in the mail.

    Not at all heavy, the EDT wears more like a body spray.

    If you like refreshing , fruity blends (and even if you don't) give it a try. The sample bottle is generous, and the FB price is right.

    22 June, 2010

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    shamu1
    United States United States

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    Tribute by Mary Kay


    A forgotten power scent from the early 90s, but which is clearly in the style of the early 80s. Fans of Sung Homme, Giorgio For Men, or any other strong 80s frags that are heavy on the oakmoss, patchouli and sandalwood should dig this. Tribute is EXTREMELY old school.

    I am really surprised that oakmoss and leather are not listed as notes, because Tribute has a very green mossy smell from beginning to end, and there is a strong smell reminiscent of old worn leather during the first hour or so. Patchouli gives this the macho 80s bite, and the sandalwood rears its head in the excellent mossy drydown about three hours into this scent.

    I must mention one thing: DO NOT sample this on paper. Only sample it on your skin. On a smelling strip, it smells cheap, synthetic, harsh and disgusting. I would not have bought this if I'd sampled it on paper. On skin, it's like a whole different fragrance: warm, well balanced, herbal and green.

    Powerhouse nuts will probably love this, as I do, because it has all-day longevity and throws off some nice Power. I have to think that if this had a YSL or Givenchy label, rather than Mary Kay, this would have been a hit in the 80s. Luckily MK still makes this, so Power fans should stock up.

    MY RATING: 8.5/10

    22 June, 2010

    Klute's avatar
    Klute


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    Bigarade Concentrée by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

    For me THE citrus scent. Often described as a "sweaty orange". Unbelievably naturalistic orange peel which is deepened by rose and a musky drydown. What I absolutely love about this scent is that it is fresh, but not sharp and cool. It is warm and yet never sweet or cloying. It is one of the rare citrus scents that is not too clean and airy, but which actually dries down to a comforting skin scent. It is very sexy.

    22 June, 2010

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    Diamondflame
    Singapore Singapore

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    Windsor by Creed

    To the casual fragrance user, WINDSOR is probably just another fresh clean scent. Wait till he finds out the price - he'd probably have a nosebleed! But to more seasoned noses and perfume enthusiasts, Windsor plays beautifully like a Stradivarius, with a restraint that belies its craft and complexity. On my skin it presented with juniper or pine-like greenery, and a touch of rose interspersed with a hint of woods and a well judged citrus. But there was also a little minty medicinal note that adds a bitter tinge to the green, like a discreet nod to the scent's ethereal yet masculine profile.

    I must concede this to be an elegant gentlemanly scent that will stretch most fragrance budgets. But as a fan of the genre, I'd admit to being held for ransom just so I could afford Windsor, certainly one of the most historic releases from the House of Creed.



    .

    22 June, 2010

    bookwyrmsmith's avatar
    bookwyrmsmith
    United States United States

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    Red Door Velvet by Elizabeth Arden

    An aquaintance gave me a mini of this . To me RDV smells like Gres' Cabaret with EA Green Tea overlayered the woodsy patchouli aspect is rather strong at first but it is mellowing with time into a woodsy lily of the valleyish floral similar to but softer than the reformulated Ruemur .
    Not sure if this is FBW for me as I have Ruemur .

    22 June, 2010

    BayKAT's avatar
    BayKAT
    United States United States

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    Youth Dew by Estée Lauder

    A few months ago i found a list of the highest grossing perfumes of the decade, and many of Estee Lauder's offerings were on it.

    Whether or not Youth Pew made that list I can't remember, but if it did then 'oh my' is all i can say.

    I don't know what they are trying to do with this scent. Alehydes and oakmoss? A strong citrus opening on a heavy base of sweet notes? Tropical florals and incense? Just pick a direction, for heaven's sake.

    This fragrance will make you long for adulthood..

    22 June, 2010

    BayKAT's avatar
    BayKAT
    United States United States

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    Bosque by Humiecki & Graef

    This is a typical light EDT, meant for a few hours at most. To me this is refreshing and crisp, and with narcissus and grass notes I'm going to like it.

    This hangs on my clothes well enough to last all afternoon. My one complaint: after about an hour and a half this turns a bit off on me, not exactly too sweet just off. I attribute this to vetiver, which is a note i usually have problems with.

    So in sum, nice opening, great for summer; but short lived and with a trying dry down.

    22 June, 2010

    Slane's avatar
    Slane
    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Shalimar by Guerlain

    Some may think I'm too young to wear Shalimar but my God how can you smell it and then not want to wear it. I would not call it a classic but rather a "Legend". It truely transcends time and does not smell dated at all. To my nose it is smoky and sexy but very refined. As I said it is not dated it is appropriate for 2010 and beyond and yet I can imagine it being worn by men and women at the court of Versailles. I can't add anymore except to say it is perfection and may it live forever!

    22 June, 2010

    Larimar's avatar
    Larimar
    Austria Austria

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    Borneo 1834 by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Cultivating a utter disgust for A*Men, I do like this one. This is the men's version :) So very dry and unsweet - wonderful and this coming from Serge Lutens. The initial flash is there, but I do not perceive it as off-putting or dramatic as others obviously. Funnily, I associate it wearing this outdoors in front of the open fire and smoking a cigarillo or cigar. I do think this is a good combo!

    22 June, 2010

    Larimar's avatar
    Larimar
    Austria Austria

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    L'Air du Desert Marocain by Tauer

    Sorry, this is simply musty and moldy... it completely escapes my nose what makes it a five star masterpiece. To the point - I would definitely not want to smell like this. Definitely sample first!

    22 June, 2010

    Larimar's avatar
    Larimar
    Austria Austria

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    Chypre Rouge by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    This is one of the most off-putting fragrances I have ever frantically tried to wash off. I can't add anything qualified and constructive here. It was sheer horror to walk from the store straight to the office just to get rid of it or more precisely to weaken its monster sillage.

    22 June, 2010

    Larimar's avatar
    Larimar
    Austria Austria

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    French Lover / Bois d'Orage by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

    Does the French lover smell like this? *LOL*
    Forgive me my sarcasm, but this such an uncharming fragrance! Seduction - no! Beautiful - no! Sexy - no!
    This is the stereotype of what men thought they had to smell like in the 1980s in order for their manliness not being questioned...

    22 June, 2010

    Larimar's avatar
    Larimar
    Austria Austria

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    Madame X by Ava Luxe

    Some of the previous reviews got me wondering whether I was wearing the same fragrance yesterday. Anyway, this is my take:
    I have very high respect for Ingmar Bergman's movies and therefore, one of my most favorite is "Hour of the Wolf", which is also one of his most challenging and disturbing ones. It kept me busy thinking for at least two weeks. It features a very prominent scene - a party at the castle of this deserted island. Wearing and sniffing Madame X I figure being impressed by the appearance of Madame X at this party, beautiful and classy wearing a red robe. I turn around to get her a glass of champagne and turn back to see her in the red dress, but a wolf's head :) The fragrance Madame X starts off with style, a burst of opulence and class (read the note list above!) just to very soon transform into something deeply and smokily animalic and only hints of the initial beauty left. In the drydown, which stays very close to the skin, the initial complex smelling beauty, is gradually coming back to the foreground a bit, but never to make a full appearance again. This is a surreal fragrance like the movie I am referring to. What an experience! This is fabulous and I'm so happy I dared to buy it blind. On the more "technical" side it wears very close to my skin with moderate longevity, which I don't fault it for. This is more of an experiment and experience than a fragrance I would ware every day. For comparison reasons I had Rose de Nuit on the other wrist, Muscs Koublai Khan on the inside of my arm and further up both of them layered. All three variations share a certain vibe. Unfortunately, I am not experienced enough to distinguish castoreum or civet as individual notes, but maybe these added to a layered RdN and MKK would make a very close scent...

    22 June, 2010

    Larimar's avatar
    Larimar
    Austria Austria

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    1969 Parfum de Révolte by Histoires de Parfums

    It does not happen too often that one single note spoils a fragrance for me, but here by spoiling I mean TOTALLY! It's not that I did not try hard. I gave this 3 full wearings from my sample, but my aversion got greater and greater. Well, that note is CHOCOLATE here! To me, this is a very creamy and rich white chocolate... YUK! There is a lot to like here and I dithered about a neutral or thumbs down. Call it anger - my conclusion is this is goofed up by one single overboarding note and about as disgusting as it could possibly ever come.

    22 June, 2010

    Larimar's avatar
    Larimar
    Austria Austria

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    Lyric Woman by Amouage

    Interestingly this does not get a lot of attention. In one word - this is BEAUTIFUL! Does beauty have to scream, yell or come in loud colors? Well, not this one. It is a soft, balmy and resinous fragrance - even softer than Chergui to me, but NOT sweeter! I see nothing particularly feminine wearing Lyric Woman as a man. BUT you don't get the burning house incense note, which Amouage seems to designate to men (not my thing!). Longevity is average, but still okay until it fades to a yet again heavenly skin scent. AND BTW, here you go with your oakmoss base, folks! Lyric Woman does not produce a lot of sillage on me, so I apply some sprays well spread over my chest, neck and wrist. This is for sure one of most beautiful fragrances I own - along the line with Une Fleur de Cassie and Chergui that come to mind first. A timeless beauty and worth the big cash for an Amouage fragrance (not that I think so of some of their offerings)!

    22 June, 2010

    Larimar's avatar
    Larimar
    Austria Austria

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    Hot Leather by Mark Buxton

    I think I got fooled with this or should I say I fooled myself...
    I don't think this is high quality nor do I think it has high quality natural ingredients. Ergo it may not be worth the price tag!
    BUT I can see why I instantly fell in love with this and went home with a bottle. I still love it. I like the smokiness and slight roughness in the beginning, while it slowly turns softer and gentler. It may not be a "true leather" coming up, but then, to my nose there are very few out there or maybe only really the one: Chanel's Cuir de Russie (parfum extrait)? So, I'm fine with that. I do get the picture with this fragrance. A night at the Moulin Rouge - it has a "vulgar" touch to my nose and liking, which I mean all positive here. Longevity is moderate to average and sillage is just fine.
    So, get it if you like it / if you think it takes you right there where it says, but not for quality or sophistication, I think. I know it sells well here locally, but does it add to the fragrance?

    22 June, 2010

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    Force of One
    United States United States

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    Un Bois Vanille by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    My initial feeling upon sampling this in a store while looking for a go-to vanilla scent was "this could be in the running". On my skin it dried down to more of a cotton candy although I do get waifs of the vanilla from time to time. I also get some smokiness and every now and then a rubbery smell, which isn't as bad as it sounds.

    A little suprised it is marketed as a woman's frag when I could definitely see it being unisex. That being said, I think ultimately I will go with one that falls more on the masculine-to-unisex side (if one exists) especially at the Serge Luten prices.

    22 June, 2010

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    Force of One
    United States United States

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    L'Air du Desert Marocain by Tauer

    Just received a sample of this and I have to say I am really liking this.....BUT I can't quite say I love it, and it is a little different in some respects of what I was expecting....

    A definite amber note to start which mellows (but remains throughout for me) which gives way to a frankincense note which is suprisingly restrained. I have to say that it doesn't quite take me away to a far off desert land, but more reminds me of a church, with the incense offering.

    Wore this on a very hot day and was suprised how pleasant it remained. Would not say it gave tons of projection and while it lasted about 8hrs or so on me, it really peaked out after the first 2-3.

    This is a scent I really want to have at my disposal but I don't see wearing it often enough to justify a full bottle purchase.

    22 June, 2010

    redrose's avatar
    redrose
    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Joy by Jean Patou

    Tried new version of Joy today (June 2010), and found it to be much less rosy and jasmine-y than the original. Instead, the scent soon settled down into a honeysuckle note that didn't change and was very long-lived. A pleasant perfume, certainly, but not the Joy that we and our mothers knew and loved. Over sweet and cloying on me. I washed it off and spritzed on some Parfum Sacre instead! And that was true joy!

    22 June, 2010

    Maria Augusta's avatar
    Maria Augusta


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    Dune by Christian Dior

    Very intense and longlasting. Just couldn´t get rid of it and my headache lasted for two days. Definitly not my cup of tea.

    22 June, 2010

    Hamp's avatar
    Hamp
    United States United States

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    YSL pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

    Excellent lemon/cirtus classic! In my opinion, it is better than Eau Sauvage by Dior, in that it actually remains after 5 minutes!

    22 June, 2010 (Last Edited: 25 January, 2011)

    Larimar's avatar
    Larimar
    Austria Austria

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    Pour Un Homme by Caron

    It took me some samples and tries AND a bout of serious lavender craving over the past weeks arising to figure out how I like my Pour Un Homme. I like it suave and soft, therefore generously splashed on me, much in the manner of a traditional Eau de Cologne. Caron Pour Un Homme is about lavender mellowing out in a soft vanilla with helping notes to round off the edges. This is refined, classy and elegant. No more is necessary. Grab one of those huge bottles (mine I bought for a steal) and douse yourself!

    22 June, 2010 (Last Edited: 10th August, 2011)

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    Foustie
    Scotland Scotland

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    Orange Star by Tauer

    Orange and Amber. L'Air Du Desert Marocain with Orange Sherbet. It's nice.Tauer fans will be able to identify this even if they have never smelled it before. The Tauer signature is very apparent.

    I admire Andy Tauer immensely. I adore L'Air and Incense Extreme and I have them both. I am still discovering other Tauer fragrances. This one, mmmmm, I can't help but compare it to L'Air. It smells a bit, but only a bit, lighter, zingier to begin with; the clementine, mandarin, and orange flower coming together to smell like a big juicy Jaffa Orange, but to me it is very close to L'Air in the drydown and in my view L'Air is more beautiful.

    Orange Star is maybe a bit more playful, younger. Think summer music festivals, warm breezes, love, and twenty first century hippies.

    22 June, 2010 (Last Edited: 08 October, 2012)

    CoL's avatar
    CoL
    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Tom of Finland by Etat Libre d'Orange

    Oh my goodness I feel another obsession coming on a la Gaultier 2 and Costume National Scent! This stuff is outstanding! A true "perfume" for men, and women to be honest. Wondefully blended and develops so well. Starts with the citric/aldehyde notes and smooths down to what I would say is a warm ambery/musk base. Lasts for an age too! A little confused with one review that states they would love an EDP version of this, it only comes in an EDP!

    23 June, 2010 (Last Edited: 24 June, 2010)

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    JDBIII
    United States United States

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    No. 19 by Chanel

    The most beautiful Chanel scent I have yet to smell. It opens with a dry green string quartet, but then, the curtain rises on a symphony of precise notes, each ascending in a crescendo towards a glorious oakmoss drydown. Very intentional and sophisticated. No. 19 radiates assurance but never shouts. I have only tried the vintage juice, and don't know what is currently being sold, but with the current rules governing oakmoss usage, I am afraid the new formulation may be inferior. Perhaps this is why Guerlain discontinued Parure. Just a thought.

    23 June, 2010

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    JDBIII
    United States United States

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    Jicky by Guerlain

    Lavender tends to become medicinal/urinous on my skin rather quickly, so I approached Jicky with some trepidation. However, I was rewarded with a very gentle scent. The lemon evaporated quickly and the lavender appeared in the most restrained setting. The vanilla was hiding at the edges but never took over. This is a surprisingly simple scent. I took a vial to work and shared it (and it's history) with some of the women I work with. A unanimous positive response. I could wear Jicky day or evening. I recently wore it to a coffee house that had a live band with a kid on the bongos. It was perfect.

    23 June, 2010

    kewart's avatar
    kewart
    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Premier Figuier by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    This scent actually lasts quite a long time on my skin! I find it strangely appealing and especially appreciate the drydown.

    I love the smell of figs and detect an almond note in here somewhere (or maybe its the coconut.)

    Anyway, I would wear this in the summer months with pleasure and feel it is a beautifully constructed scent with quality ingredients.

    23 June, 2010

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    Mimi Gardenia
    United States United States

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    Violetta di Parma by Borsari

    A very green violet -to the point of resembling 'green bananas' ! I wish it didn't . I prefer Penhaligon's Violetta.

    23 June, 2010

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    Aqua pour Homme by Bulgari

    Guilty pleasure?

    Heh, BAquaPH is marine/ozone done well. The 'noses' may sniff at it but it is an original scent, it stands out among modern scents which is what it was designed to do and should be commended for doing so.

    23 June, 2010

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