"In to the fougere's wild". Faberge Cellini for men is a quite refined (but really "strong") freshly aromatic barber-shop classic fougere exuding a fascinating fresh aura a la Aramis Tuscany Man (a lot), Drakkar Noir, Cuba Black men by Cuba Paris or (mostly) Azzaro Pour Homme. I detect this mastering initial soapy-anisic accord of aromatic herbs, fresh lavender and citrus, immediately supported by leather/patchouli (with a quite soapy-suedish leather's effect), by a refined sharp floral core (mostly carnation under my profane nose), overall flowing down towards a mossy-ambery-leathery base (dandy, classy, "tailored", leathery, soapy, aromatic, dry). Anisic lavender, musks, synth ambergris and soapy leather are dominant throughout while the florals are restrained, angular and "accessorial". I detect an undeniable spicy presence (and some misty earthiness) but the juice is mostly an aromatic-soapy (mossy-ambery-leathery) fougere with a radiant spark of gentlemanly dandy class. Supremely masculine. Durable on my bastard skin.
P.S: dry down is darker (vaguely smoky, austere, quite soapy-mossy - but all at once angular - and assertive a la Ysl vintage Rive Gauche).
22nd March, 2017 (last edited: 23rd March, 2017)
Bergamot Sage opens with very delicate and quite beautiful sparkling pink grapefruit, bergamot, slight fig and light woods and light musk as a base. The first few sniffs were very nice, then its gone. This fragrance does not have enough contrasts within it for the the delicate and pretty notes to stand up against. I tried it a couple of times and it always disappears quickly after a very nice scented opening. Turn up the contrast and brightness controls please. Sorry it doesn't work for me.
Aldehydic Oakmoss is a middle toned scent that has a continuous hollow toned metallic vegetal green aroma that occasionally slows down to a warm toasty cocoa but then returns to the metallic green. This ringing and changing vibrancy is from the nature of aldehydes upon scent which creates a revolving and changing tonal circle of green tartness and then toasty tonka cocoa tones that returns back to each other. This creates kind of a changeling leather aroma. It is an elliptical frequency of changing aroma that is pleasant but very difficult to pin down because there is no start and stop points. The inability to identify specific notes makes the fragrance hard to remember. It is nice to wear and smell, but soon it is "what was that smell again?" I dunno. This fragrance has an invisibility cloak quality due to its generic tonal range and changeability. It is pleasant but hard to identify/or remember. I would rate it 6/10.
More of an Eau de Cologne on my male skin. Citrus top which shortlived. Light floral with a Vetiver finish.
Uncomplicated, fresh, not overly Feminine aura. Nice for the hot, humid, summers. A cut bove the regular body wash scents.
Cognesenti created a fragrance called Hay Incense. The initial opening aroma is hay and this warm lazy straw aroma is surrounded by a variety of almost hay like elements that causes the hay scent to move back and forth and side to side giving it depth and mass and an incense of sorts of hay aroma. Birch leaf, Immortelle, benzoin, oak, leather, labdanum - these are all very low toned almost sweet dry hay type smells. The leather is noticeable in the base too. I would change the name to Hay Leather to more accurately match the scent with the name. I like the end result of this fragrance but I think it's lack of opening notes keeps its low profile, rhetorical incense, almost invisible presence from the outset straight through to base notes. It is all same - all the way through. This fragrance would make a good base accord on which to add totally new top notes and heart notes. There is potential here. I would rate this one 7 of 10.
Warm Carrot is a very stable warmed smiling skin fragrance made of multi faceted pleasant to smell ingredients. This scent is a mood upflifter but is slow and steady in action. The amber accord here is a base uplifted with Ylang Ylang which can and does also have some slight narcotic indolic muskiness. Benzoin and vanilla also add sunshine the mix. Vetiver keeps it grounded and carrot seed oil gives it a slight rooty personality, a nod to the garden, that is far less of an influence than the name implies - very slight. I doubt I would pick out the carrot oil ingredient if it were not posted in the fragrance name. The overall result is the impression of sun smacked, ozone warmed bare skin which has been working earnestly and with good intentions about the garden. That smell - it is nice!
Tomato Leather opens with tomato leaf green tartness and finishes with a very dry powdery and leafy leather accord. The tension and story line of this fragrance is all about how to bridge the gap from tart green tomato leaf to dry dusty leather. It sort of works as the leather remains with some dry tobacco leaf support and the green tartness also stays around too. You end up with Tomato Leather. I am reminded of Neil Morris Leather Garden and Memo Irish Leather as two very green leather scents that also struggle to bridge this gap of green plants and aged leather. This gets a begrudging thumbs up from me as it almost doesn't work, but ultimately it is what it is, and THAT is interesting.
Blue Oud opens with cool lively blue cypress airiness that leads down a hidden pathway into a shaded mossy woodland clearing revealing the hollow aroma of vetiver grass and ancient decaying Aquilaria tree mold which is the central note of Blue Oud - agarwood. This is a direct hit of the type of cold oud backed by vetiver for a classic dry oud aroma. The blue cypress opening goes away in a short pause and all that's left is this pure and simple oud wood that is similar to MFK Velvet Oud Mood and TF Oud Wood, only this is lighter, simpler but equally as impressive. This is a nice summer oud - not pushy or heavy in any way and cooling and relaxing in temperament. This is an impressive fragrance from a mostly overlooked artisanal perfume house - Cognescenti!
These three lines describe the core character of this composition. Orange blossom mainly, touches of muguet, and a thin veil of a delicate thin muslin layer of jasmin underneath it all.
Whiffs of an orangey aroma, and hints of a gentle tuberose - no waxy ir woody undertones here - add playful elements in the drydown, but the white florals continue to reign supreme throughout.
Whilst the inherent sweetness of this creation is usually never going beyond the sweetness expected from white flowers in full bloom, in the base just a touch of tonka is added. This additional sweet component is quite subtle on my skin and blends in rather innocuously, as does a pinch of bezoin, which, like table salt, enhances the mix unobtrusively in its judicious application.
I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and nine hours of longevity on my skin.
This pleasant spring scent is the epitome of a white floral scent. Not supremely brilliant and at times a tad linear, it is well crafted and of solid quality. 3.25/5.
Structure of this has a Nicolai Signature common to all that I have nosed. A centre of gravity low within the Heart Notes. Light touch of Oud is surrounded by a thin blanket of Patch and Cedary woodiness.
With this scent Ambrette is used similar to Chanel's No. 18. It draws my mind to the distance with a whisper of Rose vague.
The Base feels light. The weight of Amber and Styrax is like one stroke of a Watercolour. The Omani is a sliver of light singular. I fail to identify the Castoreum.
All in all a very pleasant scent fitting for the time.
Hope to nose Oud Sublime Extrait sometime in the future.
A citrusy flanker of the original. Lighter and fresher. They have toned down barbershopiness and amped up freshness to be more palatable to millennials.
Not as good as original but a worthy flanker.
A great amber and honey fragrance with woodsy (including SW) base. A masculine of the bygone era.
A lot like vintage Zino by Davidoff. So much that having both might be redundant.
A bright mix of a fruity-orangey aroma with a core of aldehydes, touches of wormwood and untertones of forest berries - delightful and uplifting are the words that come to mind when enjoying these top notes.
Soon, very soon, an apricot/peachy tone combines with jasmine and muguet; but on my skin this never turns into a floral-dominated composition, as the fruity side plays an equally important part in the overall scheme.
In the base tonka and a soft patchouli are added, but until the end the brightness prevails to some extent and never leaves.
I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin.
This spring scent has a lovely opening phase that is the most convincing stage of its development; towards the base is looses intensity and the bright vividness of its components. Whilst not necessary the most exciting fragrance released as the result of Tom Ford's reign at Gucci, it is certainly one of the good ones. 3.25/5.
Il Poupre is a mildly sweet, medium toned woods fragrance that has bits of fig, davana, iris, shiso, ginger, angelica with an ambroxan and cashmeran base to add warm cuddliness to the final impression. There is a large variety of various fragrant bits which form a complex but very generic smelling scent that lacks specific character, but is never offensive or unpleasant. This reminds me of the aroma of a freshly polished wooden cabinet that is pleasant but also not too,special. Il Poupre is a "jack of all trades and master of none" kind of generic unspecific woods tonal fragrance. Nice name, great bottle and a richly colored dark ruby purple scent that I really wish I could rave about, but, it doesn't really happen for me.
20th March, 2017 (last edited: 21st March, 2017)
Leather Oud is a perfect gateway oud, in my opinion—it has all of the secure, comforting aspects of a traditional fragrance—in this case a beautiful, classic leather note as well as other mainstays of masculine perfumery, such as vetiver and carnation—and uses it as the launch pad for an oud that is pure and deep. The first thing you notice is the expensive leather—not too long from being in the tannery and workroom and then on to the deep, oily darkness of the Oud, underscored by the vetiver, amber and patchouli. The floral notes of carnation and geranium are so subtle that they play a true supporting role; as the name asserts, this is all about leather and oud.
Gentlemanly enough to stroll down Jermyn Street, Leather Oud also has the dark and oily glow, edged with a dirty humanity that oud is so famous for. This boy may be wearing a bespoke suit and polished bench-made shoes, but there is some funk going on here. This is for the enfant terrible of St. James, the punk rocker of Savile Row who goes commando in his custom tailored suit. And is it just for the boys? I think so—it has too much of a well-bred testosterone note to be anything other than masculine. That said, on a woman with a taste for pinstripes this could be head turning.
Starts out with a great promise - amber and animalic.
But then it starts going downhill into some synthetic plasticy mess after a few hours.
Not bad for first couple hours and so neutral. I'd rather spring for Ambre Sultan.
Dom Rosa succeeds in the creation of a rose champagne toned warm woods fragrance. The champagne opening is a cleansing freshness while the rose, pear and pomelo light tones bubble up through the rose incense wood base. Frankincense warms the multi toned fresh cut woods to complete a long lasting aroma that is convincing as you inhale from inside of a well aged recently emptied wine barrel. Dom Rosa has a blended character that is cheery but somber at the same time and encourages a "lift your glass" attitude that deepens and improves as the night goes on. This is a nice warm incense rose that is not overly complicated but has solid wooded character traits that I enjoy. Well done!
Standard aquatic. Boring, uneventful and instantly forgettable.
I understand what people mean when they say that this fragrance is lacking in character - it's very much an 'everywoman' perfume. I wear it when I want something oriental but light, when I really want the creamy Shalimar drydown with a prettier opening. Plus, the bottle is gorgeous and the juice is beautifully blended, of course. I could live without this stuff in my wardrobe, but it's a super-easy Guerlain, and I've room for that.
It doesn't smell like real oud, but it's one of my most admired fragrances (by others), so I'll give it a thumbs up.
The opening is a bright and quite fresh combination of fruity aromas - berries, rhubarb a fresh-earthy undertone. The drydown turns a bit incense-herbal, but never into a really incense-dominated composition.
The base adds a soft impression of a light soft suede and a good lashing of cistus and labdanum, wich account for the slightly harsher character towards the end.
The sillage is moderate, the projection good and the longevity eight hours on my skin.
An overall quite bright spring creation that is well created and blended, albeit not very exciting. Still, it is convincing enough to make it - just - into the borderzone of the thumbs-up category - once it is enlarged sufficiently. 3/5.
Headache-inducing Ozonic sea scum in a bottle. The shrill brackish watery notes have a way of pinpointing one's synapses with a laser-like focus. The worst tendencies of early aughts men's designer perfumery taken to an incredibly horrific extreme. I would laugh at the audacity it took to release this upon an unsuspecting public if I wasn't in so much brain pain. It saddens me that this carries the Mauboussin name.
Tellus opens with a deep earthy aroma. Reminds me of mushroom soil, damp leafy forest earth of slowly rotting dead wood, roots and emitting a composted earth aroma. There is a funky rotting scent that is apparent at opening but doesn't last long. This earthy damp composted aroma has bits of green fir resin and moss that coupled with the ambroxan and cistus labdanum base gives the fragrance a very dark masculine incense fougere kind of scent. Tellus is made even bolder and more serious by a big patchouli and gingery costus note. The amber base keeps a mellow warmth that adds a civilized side to the fragrance that feels like a fine woven glenn plaid fabric of damp earth + mossy resin + patchouli + warm amber. A very nice fragrance that stays close to the skin but lasts a long time.
One of the most expensive "musky/talky bath-foams" of the market. Not for me. An "highly placed" mix of "market cracks cliche'-formulas". Joop Homme+ Baldessarini Ambre + a whichever musky-herbal-talky "ubiquitous" bath foam + Paco Rabanne One Million + Gaultier Le Male + a bombastic luxurious packaging = Reflection Man. Just a far more expensive, yet slightly more herbal and structured mix of the former juices. Finally Reflection turns out pretty talky, floral-chic and warm. I've read somewhere there is no resemblance with Joop Homme but I detect many points in common with it especially about the first part of the run (angular- herbal/hesperidic- elements, candied heliotrope, spices, jasmine, patchouli, vetiver, ambroxan, tonka, sandalwood etc). Finally the olfactory routes diverge and Reflection Man becomes a musky-talky amalgam significantly distant from the Joop's powerhouse disclosure. A really powerful fragrance. Hints of peppery spices, woody saltiness, synth ambery piquancy, floral patterns and aromatic herbal greenness ransom an otherwise overly boring expensive talky-ambery blend. Save your money guys.
P.S: after many ours I detect several changes, the juice evolves, a "languid" anisic (a la Thierry Mugler's Angel) sort of unisex fruity/floral patchouli comes out and I finally see a pretty chic sort of Chanel Allure's aura (vaguely candied/honeyed/floral-chic/aromatic). I detect in this phase an alluring sambac jasmine supported by neroli, "anisic-starry-candied" sandalwood and patchouli.
19th March, 2017 (last edited: 20th March, 2017)
In the opening 15 minutes, I felt like I could pick out the individual notes of pear, vanilla and/or tonka, and musk; and then it blended into a harmonious accord similar to Burberry for Women from 1995, and held that accord from then on. I like this even more than Burberry, it's more rounded and less challenging after the first half hour. I think this would work well for women as a date-night scent.
Smells a lot like another unisex fragrance, Hermes' Un Jardin en Mediterranee. Both are very fresh and exude "greenness."
However, I find either one to be incompatible with winter weather; both are better suited for warmer weather. And both also have a bit too much floral in them to be considered solidly masculine.
Love this. It took me years to find this. I had always passed it over - the low price point led me to intuit that it couldn't be anything special. I can say that this is as complex and high in quality as any $200 bottle that I've ever purchased. The dry-down is the best I've encountered.
The smell of Yatagan reminds me of a specific scent memory from before I discovered Yatagan:
Skiing in the Alps with friends, staying in a small, old log cabin with a fireplace. Wood smoke, alcohol, incense, and a little sweat.
A very enigmatic experience, this Camera 600 (not officially listed on the basenotes.net site at the moment).
I have a tiny chukker of this stuff, and I can describe it as starting out really pungent, then immediately turning into a mossy and spicy deal that evades description. "Cheadle" from Nigeria hit the nail on the head by likening this scent (at least the initial spray-on) to Photo by Lagerfeld.
It's okay, but a bit dated for my tastes.
Love this fragrance. Beware of the initial blast, though! A light touch is best for this juice. Bitter herb opening softens to wonderful violet and woody notes that on me, seem to morph back and forth with the rose and moss notes. I adore how it seems to change over it's long-life. May not be for everyone, but is is for me!
This is so boring, I've washed it off already. Too synthetic for even me. I've used permanent hair dyes, that smell better than this...