Perfume Reviews

Latest Perfume Reviews

Total Reviews: 130548

Al Oudh by L'Artisan Parfumeur

I was sent a Vintage 2011 sample of this charmer. I hope it hasn't been reformed as this is as Symphonic as my Bel Ami.
I am always taken by perfumes that can capture the Mentholated top note of Cardamom.
This stuff smells like I've eaten a Curry made for a Monarch, Cardamom Yeast Donuts continuously for days, without bathing.
Glorious stuff!!
30th September, 2016

No. 18 by Chanel

The Chanel Oddball. First glance seems almost futuristic.
Ginger Ale opening. Then it seems an abstract artist's notion. The Ambrette has me streaking across the Universe to meet a singular note of a Floral Essence Rose perfection. Then a snap back to a notion of something Icy
and soul-less. Pure and Austere.
Very soon it fades into a memory.
Beautiful and almost Transcendent.
30th September, 2016

Midnight Poison by Christian Dior

Goodness! I had no idea I would enjoy this little gem so much!

I found a mini for sale on ebay and it came in the mail today. Upon application, it was extremely LOUD and yelled HELLO! I AM ON YOUR WRIST! I thought "well damn, here is money down the drain". But I waited (thank goodness! price/ml was not low!), and it paid me back in spades in the dry-down - oh boy - this will have my pretty...the bottle is gorgeous as well!

Rose and Patchouli done VERY well. Just let the screaming citrus do its thing like a temperamental two year old, and you'll be fine - really!
30th September, 2016
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No. 5 Eau Première by Chanel

When the original version had just come out, I actually stopped a young woman in the street to find out what she was wearing - in her wake was the most airy, delicate, magical, unidentifiable floral, and I was confused when she said it was No. 5. I eventually figured out that it was a new release and tried it on myself, though it wasn't as fabulous on me, so I moved on.

I tried Eau Premiere again today, while trying the new L'Eau, and I didn't think that much of it while I was in the air-conditioned store. But about a half-hour later I was back out in the blazing, gritty heat, and it came wafting up to my nose like fairy dust and brought a gentle, civilizing tone to my hectic afternoon.

I came home with a big bottle!
30th September, 2016

Happy for Men by Clinique

STRONG and I mean STRONG long lasting citrus scent from Clinique that in my opinion varies very little from the female version... At least within the first 2 hours on skin then does dry into a slightly musky dry down but still strong on the citrus. Great quality for the juice and worth the asking price. Enjoy!
30th September, 2016

Symphonie-Passion by Unum

Symphonie Passion is surely a more urban Unum's aromatic experience. Supremely woody-cardamomish. Finally a dynamic (and more ordinary) scent from this "appalling" italian house, something closer to a banal office (or meeting room) than to liturgic and esoteric dodgy ambiences. A cedary-spicy (vaguely pencil shavings) vetiver for us. I get mostly cardamom, lime, vetiver, pine, bergamot and virginia cedar. Peony enhances the general "watery-aquatic" (but never ozonic) atmosphere. Honestly I don't see how could not be listed cardamom which is heady on my skin on the side of vetiver. I agree with Alfarom, I was expecting something more "spectacular", something like a floral/fruity symphony or stuffs like that but all I get is a sharp, wet, earthy, salty, cedary vetiver (elegant and austere). Yes I get the Sycomore's reference but mostly I pick up connections with "early bird" scents (each one for specific reasons) a la 7 de Loewe, DsQuared2 He Wood, KenzoAir, Terre d'Hermes, Rouge Bunny Rouge Tundra, CdG Wonderwood or Clive Christian X for men (vaguely Penhaligon's Blenheim Bouquet at the very least). Dry spicineness gives for a while a frankincense's illusion but this is basically the effect elicited around by black pepper/cardamom combined with the sharp vetiver's earthiness. This aroma is classy, fresh, aromatic, somewhat natural, distinguished and clean. Arid/stuck cedary sharpness is "watered down" by a "fluidy" and more fizzy vetiver-cardamom accord (remotely reporting on mind the Cartier Declaration/Frapin L'humaniste's sparkling-liquid exoticism). Dry down is even saltier and sharper. A solid day-time formal fragrance surely specific for business and office.
29th September, 2016

Jubilation XXV by Amouage

Stardate 20160929:

It is sweet, woody, oudy and amazing. The notes pyramid does not do it justice. While there are many notes, there is no cacophony, just harmony.
All notes sing together and you cannot tell them apart. A very well-blended mixture this is.

Subtle and long lasting. A big thumbs up
29th September, 2016

Antaeus by Chanel

Thumbs up for vintage and current formulations of Antaeus. I've been wearing vintage Antaeus more than any other fragrance over the last couple years, and it combines intriguing smell with fantastic performance, a fragrance of considerable gravitas, an outlier even among the great fragrances released around the same time, featuring an animalic base, a touch of honey, and strong, peppery woods and patchouli.

The current version being sold during 2016 is also nice, although different enough to be a different scent altogether and not just a reformulation, and much lighter. It only retains a light touch of the character of the original, which is disappointing, but it does bring something new to the experience - a deft sweetness, a smooth, modern politeness, and an office-friendly scent bubble. I think it caters to modern tastes as something that won't impose on others, but being so light gives it an underwhelming performance that's disappointing relative to the original. If someone is looking for something light to wear to the office, this could be a good option.
29th September, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Très Jourdan by Charles Jourdan

The fruity opening is loaded towards apricot and distinctly peachy sides, with the raspberry remaining in the background on me. The heart notes constitute a determined shift towards the heavily floral, with lily-of the valley, rose and jasmine forming a triumvirate of floral supremacy; only occasionally is the initial fruitiness shining through.

The base notes are centred around white musk and vanilla, with the latter adding more sweetness to what the previous components already contributed to this creation. The sweetness with the musk works quite well and develops light and elegant rays of a restrained lipstick accord with whiffs of a bright and youthful powderiness towards the end.

The sillage is moderate, the projection very good, and the longevity amounts to six hours on my skin.

This is a confidently sweetish-fruity-floral spring scent, which seems to target the gender-stereotype of the young and girly TYTs. This is congruent with the design of the very chic bottle, which reflects the elegant lines of Charles Jourdan's famous shoes of the period with their famous transparent ultra-high heels. Whilst many houses nowadays seem to presume that this target group only deserves trashy perfumes, Très Jourdan shows that there is an alternative: a sweetish, playful and colourful creation with a touch of substance, the average Victoria's Secret with a touch of class and quality so to speak. Not a great one but a fun one, with ingredients of acceptable quality. For those who don't like its sweetness this might not be the right choice. 3.25/5.

TYT here = trendy young things.
29th September, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

No. 5 L'Eau by Chanel

The fresh, summery opening notes are heavily weighted towards citrus, with hedione and aldehydes forming an underlying carpet of crispness that combines very nicely with the citrus components. This is, however, not a direct burst of invigorating freshness but more a restrained freshness with a touch of elegance. This opening is done nicely. Alas I am not so sure all the subsequent notes are too.

The paradigmatic and iconic rose chord that is a central part of the original No.5 is quite toned down hereand additional floral tones are added, mainly ylang-ylang on my skin. The base is really a weak spot here, with the woodsy as well and the musky constituents being too generic to be able to follow on with the standards set by the top notes; it is quite a disappointment.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.

This is a bloodless shadow of the original, but it is quite nice overall. Chanel certainly has created worse scents in the more recent past, and this is definitely not one of their best works. It is hard to score, hovering just between the border between neutral and positive. Unfortunately, the outright generic synthetic character of the base really spoils it a bit, whilst on the other hand there is a touch of elegance permeating the whole development, albeit only a far-flung echo reflecting from the grand original version. In the end it - just - scrapes home by the skin of its teeth. 3/5
29th September, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Love Me by Victoria's Secret

A nonspecific white floral note - sweet and quite permeating in this - is followed but a fresher drydown. A light neroli impression do it's the drydown, but it is not very a very typical neroli and it lacks any texture.

Later an very bland ambery-musky base develops that fades out gradually.

The sillage is moderate, the projection excellent and the longevity seven hours on my skin.

Victoria's Secret has a penchant for penetrating my and nauseatingly sweet creations - that is no secret. In its sugary candy quality this spring scent is quite typical for this house, and its very generic and synthetic nature does not help. 1.75/5.
29th September, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Night Eau De Parfum by Victoria's Secret

This is a refreshing detour from the sickly sweetening usual VC offerings. It starts with a fruity mix, with fresh plum, hints of apricot, and is not unpleasant.

The drydown consists of a nonspecific woodsy impression, with an underlying fruitiness still less present, but overall lacking prominent sweetness on my skin.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and six hours of longevity.

A pleasant spring scent, not particularly sweet but quite synthetic. Still, not bad for VC albeit nothing special either. It has a touch of being less frivolous and is suitable for evenings, but in spite its name it is not restricted to that time of the day. 2.75/5.
29th September, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

cK one Red Edition for Her by Calvin Klein

There is a fruity-green top note duo that starts off quite pleasantly, but pleasantly without being special in any way.

The drydown is hailed by a bouquet of nonspecifically floral nature, which is leading to a patchouli-lite impression; this combines with a very dull white musk.

He sillage is soft, the projection adequate and he longevity four hours.

A rather bloodless spring concoction, generic and synthetic, not unpleasant but without individuality. 2.5/5.
29th September, 2016
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rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

cK In 2 U HEAT Him by Calvin Klein

The lemony too note is the cor accord is this creation, together with an underlying green tint. This is quite pleasant.

In the drydown a woodsy component develops, which is paired with a fruity vibe and a rather generic white musk base.

The sillage is soft, the projection limited and the longevity three hours.

A pleasant summer mix, very synthetic, generic and quite mediocre. 2.75/5.
29th September, 2016

Oud by Robert Piguet

Nice complexity, and a strong, long lasting fragrance. It has an edge that's almost too much; I'm torn between thumbs up and neutral, but the ambition pushes it into thumbs up territory. I'm wearing the last of the sample, but I think this is something that would grow on me more over time. The oud this is named after is a minor player. This smells like something that could gather a following.
29th September, 2016

White Flowers by Creed

I suddenly realized which perfume is the soul sister of this- it is the crisp green apple of 'D&G Light Blue'. And the sharp clean Jasmine with the white musk. I'm surprised at the lackluster reviews for this one. I first fell for 'Jardin D'Amalfi' but this one has moved into first place. I just love the sharp green violet leaf here. Such tang and spark. The surprise here is that for a white floral, this is fresh, not cloying. A real springtime treat. I get good silage and longevity, too. 2-3 hours.
29th September, 2016

Yatagan by Caron

Yatagan came out in 1976, four years before Bogart One Man Show, but having smelled One Man Show first, that's what this one reminds me of, although this edges the Bogart for pleasant refinement. An excellent choice for cigarette smokers and non-smokers alike. This is great - the woodsy, castoreum base is impressively well done, and the fragrant notes laid over the top add a nice balance.
28th September, 2016

Eau de Cologne Impériale by Guerlain

I had tried and really liked the current formulation, but did not need that much juice, so I hesitated purchasing. About a week ago, I found one of the older 30 ml bottles that were made in the Louis the XVI style bottle (mine was sealed and in a zebra box, so likely from the 80's, though possibly later).

I really LOVE the scent now! It seems brighter (if that could be possible) and the lavender is less heavy (at least that is my impression). Longevity is still an "issue" but as it was never meant to last, I don't really consider it a factor. Projection is minimal, making it a rather personal or intimate scent, perfect to enjoy for the sake of its pleasure, or for the sultriest of summer days.
28th September, 2016

Montana Parfum d'Homme (original) by Montana

The Brutal start has an accord that has me shy away. Something about it screams sweetish"Generic Leather". Then Whoa!!
Extraordinarily beautiful Masculine Dry Air Landscape bouquet, that has me mounted, boots in the stirrups, Gallon hat, eyes squinted, surveying my Ranch Kingdom.
28th September, 2016

Jaïpur Homme by Boucheron

Stardate 20160928:

A vanilla citrus cake. Very well done. Lemon does not overpower but enhances the vanilla and soft spices. Perfect for chilly days.
Available for cheap so get a bottle and if you do not like it, you can use it as room spray during christmas.

28th September, 2016

Orca by House of Matriarch

Perhaps because this treasure is subtle, personal and is to be dismissed as fluff.
It's structure is of CDR Exclusif. The effervescence Adelehydic assaults like frosting that tops a wavecrest. I am drawn into the centre of the structure, Birch is replaced with an Amber Frankincense rhythmnic waltz, moves with the Moon.
Whispers of Ambergris, the Sea, flow in and out as a dream. I am drawn to the transcendent silence and awed.
Aromatherapy at it's best.
Easily dismissed as "Hogwash" by those cynical of Meshell's fuzzy, feel good slick and yet folksy Advert of her product,all reminiscent of the motions of a Martha Stewart Empire.
Orca is a wonderful, personal, cleansing perfume for me.
It certainly adds that Christi Meshell, is definitive "Eye Pastry" Full Organic Cream.
Nice colouring, design bottlewise except the Caps are faulty. Has me pause on making a larger purchase as the HOM accountant tries to reach into my pocket.
28th September, 2016

Original Penguin for Men by Original Penguin

While Penguin is a very tempting buy for the price I just can't enjoy this style. Scents focused on an accord of vanilla, fir, and pepper are just disgusting to my nose. While the overall presentation here exceeds the quality of the similar Bijan Black, it is still a less-than-favorable fragrance to me.
28th September, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Azzaro Wanted by Azzaro

The citrus start is infused with a rather dull gingery note. The cardamom in the drydown - there are musky components too - is pleasant but not particularly memorable. The vetiver in the base is light without gray earthiness, and I get a rather synthetic but fortunately restrained vanilla note.

The sillage is moderate, the projection adequate and the longevity did hours.

Pleasant on cooler summer days, this is quite nice quite generic and overall mediocre. The name says it all: to drive sales - that in the intention and apparently the sole intention. 2.5/5.
28th September, 2016

Fracas by Robert Piguet

I'm surprised reading reviews describing this as if it's a soliflore. I get more peach with a soapy, woody, musky base than white flowers. It's challenging, whereas I've been finding other Robert Piguet fragrances invitingly approachable. It's dissonant in a way that works, I think; edgy, but not too much. A nice change of pace, smelling strong and interesting ahead of smelling nice. It's distinctive, smelling nothing to me like a couple mentioned below, Carnal Flower and Tubereuse Criminelle, which I do smell as soliflores. This is complex-smelling with lots of notes. The flowers are more sour than sweet to me, making it smell like an astringent soap, and a strong-smelling one.
28th September, 2016

VIP for Men by Giorgio Beverly Hills

Stardate 20160927:

It is a clone of Jaguar wooden cap. The one made in Switzerland. Or perhaps the other way around since this came a year earlier.

In any case, a powerful masculine of the era when cigarette smoke had to be pierced.

Recommended but only if you are the CEO (or work from home).

At the current price I would get Jaguar instead.
28th September, 2016

Orca by House of Matriarch

This actually takes me back to my childhood, attending Easter Mass at my church – I get a very strong frankincense hit from this (I guess from the choya loban). A tad sharper and a bit spicier than I’m used to, but that said, I like this a lot. We had an independent perfume store (can’t think of the name) here back in the mid to late eighties – they made all of their own scents and they had a fabulous range, and this reminds me very much of one of their fragrances that I had, and which I loved and missed terribly when they shut down. It’s a lovely warm scent, especially after a couple of hours when the honey and amber show up. I’m also getting a touch of vanilla, even though it’s not listed in the notes. Eight hours in, it was still there, but more of a soft amber scent, and sitting closer to the skin. I’ve got to say that although I’ve only tried three of Christi Meshell’s scents, I’ve liked them all – the girl’s got talent!
27th September, 2016

Mr. Burberry by Burberry

Generic mall scent. Nothing to get excited about in the least. Synthetic spicy opening which I similar to several scents already on the market that are done much better IMO. The scent continues in the synthetic vein towards the dry down of vetiver and woods. For the price I would avoid.
27th September, 2016
Kaern Show all reviews
United Kingdom

L'Envol by Cartier

Claire has really nailed this one and for me too I tested it after a period of trying a host of 'masculines' niche and designer in Harrods which all failed to move me (was probably retrying most of them to be honest)

I was told beforehand that it contained violet-leaf and I feared the worst but that note blended with whatever does produce a strong tobacco feel. It reminded me a bit of the Lalique L'Homme.....?, which I also like.

It's the addition of the honey note that sets it apart though and takes it to another level -- it works like a dream.

What a scent for winter!

I have the 50ml version as it avoids the tricksy bottle cap mechanism.
27th September, 2016

Number 3 / Le 3me Homme / The Third Man by Caron

For the seventh installment of 'Where did my review from several years ago go?' I will be looking at The Third Man.

It sounded great on paper, so a few years back I purchased a small decant from the Perfumed Court. My immediate impression was wonder of sorts, concerning how a perfume could come off as so natural and suave while also being that strong. In most cases you might get one or two of the three, but this really has it all. We see here the vanilla and lavender of Pour un Homme matched with some bright-as-day bergamot, a licorice-y anise ( a mixture which would be often copied in the decade to come), a swoon-inducing floral heart starring carnation and rose, and a deep, rich bed of tonka and moss. I echo here what many have said before, in that I wish the opening lasted longer (if not forever), but the total experience is decadent and lavish, with a natural yet manicured build like an English country garden in a velvet evening suit. I can think of few parallels to this level of quality in terms of blending, progression, and overall scent. I have tried two vintages so far, both of which are almost frustratingly attractive, like I am insulting the brand by not having a perfect face to match. This is one of the greatest lavenders out there, a real fougere paradise. My only caveat about its use is that, if over-applied re-applied throughout the day, the base becomes thick and stagnant, so watch the trigger.
27th September, 2016
Oviatt Show all reviews
United States

No. 89 by Floris

I have been a pushover for Floris ever since I entered their premises for the first time, which was long, long ago (Jimmy had just handed the gavel to Maggie that very year….). They have some really good scents but more than that, they have character and stamina and charm. Well-made and… well, very British. Now, of course, Floris is pushing boundaries and making a new heritage for themselves; back then, they were just as pleased as Punch with the status quo. Squarely in the middle of that is No. 89. Launched in 1951, it is perfectly in sync with its time—a nod to the past, a hope for a better tomorrow and—hopefully, a return to business as usual (remember, there was still rationing in England as late as 1954). The fact that it became Ian Fleming’s favorite scent didn’t hurt….. One of the few scents that I could imagine both Anthony Eden and Anthony Armstrong-Jones wearing. And Quentin Crisp, for that matter.
Floris No. 89 has a soapy, eau de cologne/Neroli opening that smells as if you had just bathed with 4711 soap. How reassuring that must have seemed to a generation for whom simple things like soap and hot water were a luxury. Luxury? Do you want luxury? As if on cue, a luxurious note of roses and nutmeg enters the scene, reminding us that glamour is not just in the purview of the ladies. Before you can say ponce, the manly woods and grasses bring the whole thing home, safe as houses. Old school? Oh, yes. I feel a glass of port coming on even as we speak. For a younger man who wants to get his Jermyn Street rocks off, this would be just the thing. For the rest of us, this is a clean, discretely luxurious classic scent that speaks to the pinstriped spycatcher in all of us. And don’t fool yourself—he is there within us all. And he is wearing Floris No. 89.
27th September, 2016