Perfume Reviews

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Tabac Tabou by Parfum d'Empire

Too sweet. Too dense. Too fleeting. Too...

...'disappointing' just about sums up the majority of my experience with tobacco scents. That is, until I encountered Tabac Tabou.

Tobacco leaf is undoubtedly the theme of the show here, not the star. But it is an illusion, a synergy of different components, almost holographic in its presentation - from hues of gold and brown, textures that feel dusty-papery, almost dessicated even and an intriguingly narcotic aroma that seems to evoke those of vintage chypres with its aridity and overall floral-salty-leathery-mustiness.

Great tobacco scents hardly ever project beyond a foot and Tabac Tabou is unfortunately no exception. But it lasts a good 6-8 hours on my skin. And I take comfort knowing the perceived ephemerality of a fragrance seems proportionate to the degree of enjoyment we derive from it. That's probably why we mourn over short-lived gems and complain about tenacious 'scrubbers'. It's all relative.

What makes Tabac Tabou shine for me personally is the nuanced approach the perfumer (Marc-Antoine Corticchiato) has taken to tease out the various facets of the cured tobacco leaf. Worn appropriately it doesn't suffer the weight and density of say Tabac Aurea or Chergui. Corticchiato has in fact assembled a stellar cast of supporting players; 'hay' in particular offers a terrific olfactory frame to hang a tobacco structure on. Narcissus? Brilliant.

In a nutshell? Warm, sensual, and borderline addictive. It may be early days yet but this is shaping up to be one taboo I'd love to break.
14th February, 2016

Dia Man by Amouage

Dia Man by Amouage is stunning. Stunning! Not my favourite Amouage to wear “daily” and forget about it, due to its very subtle presence on skin (which for me would be a crime to miss, so I’d rather wear it when I’ve enough attention and peace of mind to appreciate it), but surely and by far, probably my favourite ever of their range as a work of... hell, there, I’ll say it: a work of art. I think it accomplishes a level of vibrant creativity and impeccable perfection no other Amouage ever did, except maybe for Ciel. But Dia probably pushes the limit even above that. It manages to be smoother, to subtract even more, to make an even more precarious, complex and thin balance perfectly stand still as a transparent ice sculpture. Just replacing ice with air. Others in their range are more easy to love, richer and more fulfilling maybe, surely performing better and thus being more appealing and easier to wear. But Dia Man is just something different.

On paper it is seemingly quite a simple, understated floral-suede-vetiver scent with spicy-green accents – and you could wonder where’s the deal. The deal is precisely in how Dia transform that mildly promising, yet probably not-overly-exciting structure into something completely amazing. And that sadly can’t really be described with words, which would only make it sound undeservedly boring. Or well, mines would surely. I could mention a mind-blowing weightlessness, a unique sense of natural refinement, an amazingly, almost hypnotic slow evolution bringing in and out vetiver, smooth smoke and posh powdery suede, quiet clean woods, delicate breezy flower petals (orris, peony, ylang) which you can almost feel agitated by some gentle wind, an incredibly crisp yet almost unperceivable sort of grassy-minty aroma breezing erratically through the notes as a fairytale ghost of an elf, a genius touch of silky fruitiness... but that would all make Dia sound “just as another good scent” – while it isn’t. Not because it isn’t good, obviously, but because it’s beyond a scent - it’s a world, really. I would add “totally unparalleled” if Hermès Cuir d’Ange didn’t exist, as in some way, I think these two scents share some connections – both in some notes (especially the powdery-suede treatment), in their stunning quality, and in their general texture and inspiration. But creativity-wise, Dia is probably a tad superior to that, as it dares a bit more in terms of minimalism and complexity. The palette is broader here, so to speak, but surely they share some roots.

Pardon this personal detour but in a way, Dia Man reminds me of some summer holidays I used to spend in Switzerland, Engadin valley, some years ago. I always admired and deeply enjoyed the sense of cleanliness, clarity, purity and almost unsettling calm you can feel wandering through the lakes and the Graubünden mountains in the summer season, together with the warm, cozy, subtle yet somehow also very austere, pragmatic, even slightly decadent neat elegance of many houses and cafés there. In my memories the world there was all green and blue with a sprinkle of flowers, a constant uplifting crisp breeze, a Swiss sense of restrained elegance combined with a deep, archaic love for nature and for the mountains, with their dark shades and primitive secrets (which a couple of clouds are enough to transform from heaven to the most frightening place on Earth). I mean, Nietzsche spent his holidays there, in Sils Maria’s village – you get what I mean. It’s not only about some fresh air and good food to seek some rest. It’s like wandering through human nature. Now ironically Amouage’s heritage hasn’t much to do with of all that (or maybe it has?), and yet the refreshing, soothing sense of sophisticated, almost meditative yet also very “civilized” raw naturalness is quite the same. Probably “natural elegance” hasn’t ever make so much sense as it would for Dia Man. And it’s something really beyond simple charm, or a simple “natural feel”. It’s truly the modulating smell of a whole ideal world in a bottle, a blend of crisp archaic nature and modern cozy refinement. And the choice of giving it such a discreet, subtle texture is just pure genius to me, as it really feels like a call to your sensitivity and intellect to appreciate it at its fullest. Brilliant!

14th February, 2016
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Aleksandr by Arquiste

The violet-neroli duet at the opening sounds maybe a bit unoriginal, but it is surprisingly well executed. The violet is clearly in the foreground, whilst the neroli provides a basso continuo in the background that adds an element of freshness to the violent lead.

Soon a woodsy drydown presents, dominated by a fir note that is a bit on the darker side, like in a rain in the forest. It then takes on a balsamic note, but not in a eucalyptus-style, more in a slightly camphoric way.

The base adds a leather impression. The leather initially is harsher, but never in the wild and car-fume infused way of Knize Ten. Later it softens up considerably, more like Lang's Cuiron or Kölnisch Juchten and less like Tuscan Leather.

The sillage is moderate, the projection good and the longevity around eight hours.

The lovely autumnal creation of good quality, with some creative touches and good perfomance. May be not Aleksandr the Great but very respectable. 3.5/5.
14th February, 2016
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Flor y Canto by Arquiste

Tuberose and magnolia and clearly the two core components of this unashamedly sweetish-floral composition. It is soft, gentle and flowery in a spring garden way.

At times hints of geranium break through, an in the second half the marigold emerges. The floral character never changes, and there is not even that standard coda of musk or vanilla that usually graces the base notes. No, a sheer bouquet of flowers, not more and not less.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and an excellent longevity of nine hours on my skin.

A lovely creation, not very creative or original and nicely done and not too synthetic. And quite unobtrusive and hence very wearable in the office. 3/5.
14th February, 2016

Amuleti by Mariella Burani

There is a surprising deal of watermelon in this, and combined with the musk it smells almost like tomato leaf. I get a similar effect from oyster mushrooms - sugarless watermelon. Violet leaf and jasmine add a lighthearted atmosphere and pineapple actually enhances the base. A bit too musky for me, but not unpleasant.
14th February, 2016

Volupté by Oscar de la Renta

Lotus, narcissus, incensey smoke, and heliotrope form a very suave mix, indeed. Bolstered by an ambery sweetness, Volupte is a surprisingly pleasant scent - Despite being overly crowded it still comes across as airy and spread out. There is a lot going on but it seems to make sense. I'd like to think that this is the type of contemplative floral that would later inspire scents like Dzongkha and Timbuktu.
14th February, 2016

Nino Cerruti pour Femme by Cerruti

Nino Cerruti is a rather busy floral which smells very much of its time. Tuberose and honey dominate to my nose, with a decent helping of coriander. There is a certain jamminess to the fruit, and the base is all about the vanilla and moss. There are plenty of scents like this one, but it is admittedly well-made. A tamer, more evenly keeled choice for those who are apprehensive about wearing scents like Ysatis or Catalyst.
14th February, 2016

Casmir by Chopard

Simple, pleasant, and creamy - Casmir is the sort of scent that seems made for people who aren't fussy or particular about perfume and just want to smell nice. And Casmir is nice, at the expense of being exciting; a tropical peach-cream white floral with decent projection and decent longevity.
14th February, 2016

Boucheron by Boucheron

Nothing really stands out to me in this creation, except maybe the impression that everything is in its right place; the basil and tuberose perfectly proportioned to accent and be accented by the sandal and civet, which are in turn toned down to watercolor with the use of iris and benzoin. It is sweet but not tacky, hazy but not at all indistinct. It's just a really well-made fruity floriental. It is rare that a fragrance can smell unmistakably like the 80's but not 'dated.'
14th February, 2016
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Café by Cofinluxe

This was one of my "Happy" Blind buys. Very reasonable price and a scent I truly enjoy wearing. On my skin this has an oriental bent. My nose is not educated enough (yet - I'm working on it) to pick out all of the many aromas I get from this scent, but I do smell cinnamon when wearing this. I like this one alone but have layered it a few times with success. I've also got many compliments and asked for the name when I wear it. I agree that it is best worn in the fall & winter.
14th February, 2016

Luna Rossa Sport by Prada

A warm slightly spiced, barbershop soap, powdery dried leaf aroma. Stays dry hinting an impression of dry tobacco leaf, but the lavender and ginger expose tonka as the primary driver in this fragrance. This is my favorite of the Luna Rossa series. Luna Rossa original is a lavender fragrance, the Extreme (2013) is driven by a woody cinnamon, with mixed results, however: Luna Rossa "Sport" version is built around tonka, with a touch of ginger and lavender. All in all a very nice fragrance that reaches the target that Prada has been aiming at since the original was launched in 2012, Might as well skip the first two and go straight to Sport Luna Rossa and be done with it.
14th February, 2016

Acqua di Parma Colonia by Acqua di Parma

Wore this awhile,late 90's, along with all the soap, lotions. Trouble is I noticed it everywhere and on every one.
Once I smelled it overpowering in a Hotel men's room.
It brought me back to the scent of High School washrooms. It has a resemblance to YSL Pour Homme,
lemony pledge herbal thing,but definitely more of a toilet cleaner than a dance cologne.

Lorenzo Villoresi's Uomo does this sooo very much better.

Either that or Eau Sauvage for this cowboy!
14th February, 2016

Habit Rouge Eau de Parfum by Guerlain

Vintage Habit Rouge EDT (luxurious, regal, intellectual) has been for long my holy grail, my olfactory bliss, my ideal jump back in the nineteenth century, the sublimation of my baroque missed dream. This EDP (new) version is a muskier and less complex "format" of an historical unquestionable masterpiece, a less decadent and more properly woody-oriental (equally lasting on my skin) formula which (well dosed) could be a musky support for the original and non-perfectible EDT. The EDP-version strikes for its final, more animalistic, twist of reinforced musky amber, powdery cedarwood (with vague burnt accents), woody resins and dusty iris. It is heavier (more massive/monolithic, not necessarily stronger) but less dramatic and artistic. Hesperides are subdued, the juice is less opulent, less angular/shaded, less earthy and stressed on the baroquely vintage-retro aura but probably more "visceral" (powdery-musky-resinous and dissonant), "sticky" and dusty. Yes EDP is basically more rounded and less articulated, "cleaner and more modern", I don't get (quite notably) the secretly incensey-earthy vibe of the vintage EDT's dry down (musks, balsams and woody resins prevail in here over olibanum) while the base unfolds lot of woodiness (resinous/vanillic/moldy woodiness) with soft leather (minimal) and a wave of musky/waxy/cedary/lemony vetiver. I get also a more modern waxy-rubbery-aromatic twist (really smooth, kind of "modern takes on musky/lipstick iris/leather/vetiver-accords conjuring") I'm able to catch for instance in Guerlain Shalimar Parfum Initial while I can finally get a vague "vintage YSL M7's oudish ideal conjuration". I own as well an old "parisian" (straight from Avenue Champs Elysees) bottle of the original "by red leather stuff wrapped" vintage oudish EDP which I rarely wear and which I find sometimes cloying and ending to betray the original decadent-palatin-aristocratic Habit Rouge's spirit. If compared with the former, the new EDP-formula is definitely closer to the "original EDT" but surely less structured, regal and classy. I'm waiting to purchase L'Extrait which is told to be an "holy" complement for the EDT or the classic EDP. Anyway, I still recommend the EDT or the venerable EDC or Habit Rouge Dry. To each his own Habit Rouge.
13th February, 2016 (last edited: 14th February, 2016)
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Dans Tes Bras by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

I admit that I was rooting for Dans Tes Bras to be a winner even before I’d smelled it, because it’s considered the edgiest entry in a brand that focuses on giving us the most super rich, but straight-forward versions of single notes or styles. I kind of like the idea of the quirky one in the bunch being a soul match for me. I had smelled it briefly on a trip to Brussels and in a flurry of twenty other fragrances all competing for nose space, its pale, violet-tinged reticence intrigued me. But when I ordered a sample to investigate further, I discovered certain problems with it.

First of all, the weirdness of the fragrance – which comes from the interplay of the loudly synthetic elements (cashmeran, a woody-ambery sandalwood amplifier like ebanol or javanol) and natural-smelling green and floral elements (violets, heliotrope, I think mint or something aqueous) – does not go nearly far enough to catch my attention. It's weird, but not weird enough.

I’ve been playing around a lot lately with M/Mink, and although I’m not sure I like it enough to buy it, I find that the line between industrial and natural in that scent constantly shifts around, so all my attention is bound up in trying to unwrap the elements from each other. Dans Tes Bras, in comparison, has a little oddness to it, yes, but doesn't carry it forward in any compelling way. Once you’ve identified the elements at work to produce that salty, green, musky tinge it carries, the fragrance has nothing left to show you. It doesn’t help that it becomes ever more synthetic in feel as the day wears on, developing a soapy, shrill accent that runs perilously close to Windex or windscreen wiper fluid.

Now, I don’t mind references to industrial or bathroom products if they’re paired to really natural, earthy notes in a conscious effort to ground them – the bleach and toner ink played against dry patchouli and honey in M/Mink, for example. In Dans Tes Bras, though, the functional product notes are too unadorned, and I don’t find it pleasant to catch whiffs of Windex as I’m moving around the house. As a busy mum whose fragrances often encounter cruel treatment at the hands of washing up liquid, hand-soap, and latex gloves, I’d rather not cultivate that aura deliberately.

The clincher in the deal, though, was Dans Tes Bras’ eventual resemblance to Dries Van Noten, in particular that nutty, sawdusty sandalwood in combination with the “poured concrete” fuzziness of cashmeran. Dans Tes Bras is saltier and more floral, and Dries Van Noten more vanillic, milky, but ultimately they share that same cashmere-blanket level of blandness that I just cannot appreciate. My apathy comes partly from the fact that it all melds into one pale mass, with nothing differentiating one note from another, other than an abstract impression of something salty, like licking minerals off a sunny rock. In the end, it smells pleasant but banal, like the scent of eye drops or miscellar water squirted onto a cotton wool ball.

To sum up for you lazy bastards who didn’t make through all of that (TL:DR), Dans Tes Bras is not weird enough to be interesting, and not beautiful enough to lust after for beauty’s sake.
13th February, 2016

Ambre Fétiche by Annick Goutal

I like Ambre Fetiche, but I have to admit that the opening smells more like a byproduct of the petroleum industry than a perfume. Something plasticky and greasy in the top notes suggests Vaseline to me, or perhaps pleather. I don’t find this unpleasant, merely a little unsettling, especially when mixed with the sickly, biscuity undertone of the amber underneath.

The mental image: a prostitute at the Bunny Ranch, Nevada, at 2:30 in the afternoon, a big dollop of lubricant making a snail’s trail down the inside of her left thigh while a man in Stetsons huffs and puffs on top of her. The man's breath smells like biscuit crumbs - he hasn't washed his teeth. Bored, she turns her head to admire her new white pleather knee-highs, up around her ears now and close enough for inspection. Squeak-squeak goes the pleather with every thrust.

Biscuits, syrup, Vaseline, pleather. Stale cigarette smoke mingling with the powerfully sweet Victoria’s Secret Amber Romance body lotion she applied that morning.

The texture of the perfume is both dry-harsh and syrupy-sweet, resulting in an interesting pulling apart motion in the fabric, like honey rubbed against the grain of a plank of wood. The syrupy white amber is thickly poured, but clashes against the parched powder of benzoin. The resin sticks in my craw and the syrup cloys. It’s too intense, this feeling. The only other perfume that mimics this effect is Byredo’s 1996.

The discordant harmony of the birch tar, the amber, and the iris produces something of a similar push-pull feeling within me: I like it, and then I like it not. Each time I wear this fragrance, it’s like plucking out petals and never knowing whether you’re going to end up. Sometimes, I find the thought of the ride quite exciting. Sometimes, the thought of it exhausts me. Either way, like the Bunny Girl's client, it always lasts way longer than I want it to.
13th February, 2016

Missoni (2006 version) by Missoni

If the chocolate-oranges sold around Christmas were issued without sugar you would have a good handle on Missoni. I rarely enjoy gourmand scents to this extent but this is quite nice. If you combined Grand Marnier with a dark chocolate liqueur it would smell surprisingly close.
13th February, 2016

Life's a Bed of Roses by Lulu Guinness

This is very similar to the rosy heart of Tom Ford's Cafe Rose; very suedey-velvety magenta-tinged roses. The top notes barely exist - I think they are genius abstractions used to complement the different facets of the roses used (the cool violet pokes through a bit). The heliotrope adds to the body with a little bit of powder and a fragrance like a sweetless vanilla. The ingredients used remind me a bit of both Halston Couture and l'Arte di Gucci. Lovely stuff.
13th February, 2016

Aperçu (new) by Houbigant

This smells like a lighter-bodied version of Catalyst by Halston, which means I love it. The star players are oakmoss (obviously), sandalwood, jasmine, and tuberose. It's like a chypre originally released in 1940 but re-envisioned in 1990 (the smell and texture of the ingredients). Super enjoyable stuff.
13th February, 2016

Ligea "La Sirena" by Carthusia

This is an easy scent to grow tired of because it really doesn't change much, but, having said that, I really like this. I had never been wild about the smell of oranges until I developed a hobby in perfumery and found that orange just plain smells great on me. So what we have here is a spiky, semi-resinous orange scent with no tricks up its sleeve. Very fresh but also quite dark. Nothing to sing about but a very solid release if opoponax doesn't bother you. It can be polarizing, but I really enjoy that soft, smoky tinge.
13th February, 2016

Trussardi Inside Woman by Trussardi

In line with scents like Popy Moreni, Belle en Rykiel, and Rochas Man, we see here a powdery-yet-creamy vanillic coffee scent. It smells excellent but lacks some of the nuances of the others. Popy has a terrific geranium note like Yohji Homme, Belle en Rykiel features berries and incense, and really enriches the heart stage, and the Rochas edition has that swell little dash of lavender. Trussardi Inside just smells like the others minus the top notes, meaning here that is very straightforward and I enjoy it immensely. Heliotrope and coffee together? If you can make a fragrance featuring the two which I do not enjoy I would be positively shocked. So, in summary, there are similar scents with more nuance but this juice is excellent.
13th February, 2016

Eau de Patou (original) by Jean Patou

I wrote a concise and pleasant review of Eau de Patou and, as I hit submit and got up to grab a beer, missed the part where the website went offline and my writing was obliterated. Let's hope I can recapture the magic.

THIS is how you do citrus. The opening is a blast of sparkling-fresh citrus balanced out with a crisp, dry bed of oakmoss and initially I am reminded of the lovely Diorella. A hint of pepper balances out the white floral heart in a 50's sort of way and a handsome dose of civet seals the deal. Fans of Eau de Rochas Homme will recognize this body as being entirely similar but with the birch tar substituted for the moss, and with a more lasting base. This is not a particularly feminine fragrance. There is a whiff of something white and clean like jasmine or honeysuckle, but this is mostly just citrus and moss, and it is Good. Obviously, being a citrus-based scent, the first half hour is the most fun, but I can't wait to wear this out this Summer and see how it evolves.
13th February, 2016
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Al Lolo Al Maknoun by Abdul Samad Al Qurashi

The opening is wood-based, a wood that initially reminds me of an unusual wet oak and then takes on a rosewood-like turn; all this is enhanced by a fairly soft and restrained musky undertone.

The drydown brings out a rose note that is not exactly bright, but less deep or dark than the classic Damascene varieties tend to be. There is a subduedly pleasant sweetness to it that remains present until the end, with a gentle spice note added in the base.

I get soft sillage and moderate longevity, and throughout it remains very close to my skin and remains a touch lacking the full exuberance of colours this house is known for. Nonetheless, I get a splendid ten hours of longevity.

A good office-worthy autumnal creation, maybe less restrained on others than on me, made of high quality ingredients. 3/5
13th February, 2016

Bal à Versailles by Jean Desprez

Lovely, sweet rose and civet scent with a superbly done sandal and vanilla finish featuring just a hint of leather. I find it very simple but endlessly enjoyable.
13th February, 2016

Champs-Elysées by Guerlain

Hibiscus, almond powder, and a drop of anise top off a largely rose and not-quite tuberose(?) floral. Kind of prim, and competently made, but I'm not quite sold. The peach is a nice touch, though.
13th February, 2016
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Tawasul Blend by Abdul Samad Al Qurashi

The opening combines a note of wood with moist, soft white pepper, but soon develops a floral drydown, characterised predominantly by jasmine.

Further down the track a lively light amber combines with a sweetish raisinous impression of dried peaches that in the base is paired with a tonka; the latter retains a mild and restrained sweetish undertone without ever being strong or cloying.

I get soft sillage, adequate projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

The quality of the ingredients is very good, and there is a restrained elegance to this composition that is miles away from being a heavy or cloying oriental scent; on me it is quite wearable to the office on a cool spring day. 3/5
13th February, 2016

Magnifico I: Mirto Imperiale by I Profumi di Firenze

I Profumi di Firenze Magnifico 1 Mirto Imperiale is (under my nose) a profoundly citric/spicy fizzy accord of aromatic/oily myrtle, abrasive spices, struggling sandalwood and melancholic lily of the valley. I catch vague/rare ozonic molecules as well. The first approach is kind of minty (mint, myrtle), herbal, sporty/gym-type, freshly soapy, salty/virile, orangy/lemony and dynamic, something not so distant (in this opening phase) from a spicy/sporty/oceanic scent like Heaven Chopard and sharing points of connection with classic aromatic fougere a la Trussardi Action Uomo. I get soon a powerful accord of sweet (intense) spices and neroli, with something vaguely acid, peppery and kind of gummy (or better, dense by a combination of aromatic oils, oakmoss and resins. Hints of galbanum?). Magnifico 1 on the other hand hides (and quickly unveils) a more herbal-hesperidic classically rosey soul with rooty/piquant and sharply floral nuances. Dry down is restrained, less intense (less lemony/spicy/floral), more mossy/ambery, woody, powdery and rooty/peppery (but with hints of soapiness and muskiness). An hyper virile (longly) pungent/obsessive accord vaguely ordinary/bright in its "front side" but secretly warm and sombre in its almost harsh (classically/warmly harsh) woody-aromatic dry down. The final wake is anyway a sort of accomplished mélange, it is smoother, more tamed, civilized, still powerful/aromatic but well "fixed", more harmonious and "neutral". I get anyway something woody-soapy, mossy, sticky/floral and still orangy not entirely catching my taste (and vaguely conjuring me scents like Dior Eau Sauvage Extreme New and Bvlgari Aqua Amara but also Legno Amaro from I Profumi di Firenze). An appreciable juice which is not anyway wholly in my wheelhouse. A quite sensual fragrance for a boisterously masculine personality.
12th February, 2016

Odalisque by Nicolaï

This is grey territory for sure. Odalisque's citrus opening reigns for about a moment and a half until it parts and from the center a leathery musk emerges. There remains a whisper of jasmine and a touch of sea spray over the remaining bed of oakmoss, lily of the valley, and an ocean of grey musk. I feel that this is one of those chemical attraction sort of scents; though I remain unmoved there are many who sing its praises, as there are equally many who lament its existence. One of the more difficult scents to describe with just words. A cliff overlooking the sea just before it rains.
12th February, 2016

Drakkar Noir by Guy Laroche

What makes a "barbershop" scent? Lavender and oakmoss? So this should be the archetypal barbershop fragrance. It's true it does have that old-fashioned, soapy feel, but the complexity of the other ingredients underneath the big 2 make me shy away from that label. And the leather adds a smoothness and richness. It's a green, herby, fresh, soapy experience, but with a sort of spicy, complicated undercurrent that makes it more interesting than you'd think and, well, really sexy.
I've read a number of reviews talking about gay/straight, male/female, particularly with reference to Drakkar Noir. To be honest I don't get that. But then again I'm crossing the "boundaries" of mens /women's scents more and more and I care less and less about what people think about it. Yes of course men would wear this, but I can imagine a cool woman wearing this too.
I was a teenager in the 80s, but weirdly I missed Drakkar Noir then, I really don't know how. So I can't comment on how it's changed or not. I'd describe sillage and longevity now as moderate. It's a great all-rounder: I've been wearing it to the office recently, but I would also wear it on an evening. If it is weaker now, who cares, it's so inexpensive just spray more and more often. I love it.
February 2016
12th February, 2016

Rykiel Rose by Sonia Rykiel

Should I be getting more peony than rose? The understudy is showing up our main actor. The amber-wood audience watches in silence as stagehands Vague-spice and Something-fruit try to keep the show running.
12th February, 2016

Rêve en Cuir by Indult

Herbal, mossy, spicy, leathery, floral, raunchy, yummy, etc. These were just some of the descriptives that went through my mind as I tracked the scent's development.

That a seemingly weightless composition is able to convey such a multitude of sensory experience over a short span of time is simply remarkable. A less generous critic however might be tempted to call it an incomplete or unresolved fragrance, lacking a clear direction. What a killjoy, huh?

REVE EN CUIR. Honestly I don't find it all that leathery, at least not in relation to the various forms of leather I am accustomed to. But in the absence of a prominent accord, many simply take their cues from a fragrance's name. It says 'cuir' so it must smell like some kind of leather, right? Run it through a blind test and we could very well get a completely different set of reviews.

Leather or no leather, REVE EN CUIR is a wonderfully sensual yet elegant scent to grace one's skin. Projection is tastefully modest while tenacity is more than adequate for most. Price tag is...irrelevant.

Is it that obvious I'm smitten? It's definitely one of Kurkdjian's best work, demonstrating his forte in melding the romanticism of the classical with the clean lines of modern aesthetics. If Derby and Mitsouko were to have a love child, this would be it.

C'est magnifique!
12th February, 2016