Review of the vintage formulation:
The opening is quite unique, with the floral dyad of rose and hyacinth is given a darker and deeper character by a generous lashing with galbanum; concurrently it is given a fresher and gently sparkling undertone courtesy of aldehydes. The rose provides a scaffolding for the other notes; it is pleasant and not too deep, whilst the hyacinth really gives this opening a beautiful floral twist and is executed truly masterfully. Very delightful and profound.
Towards to end of the top notes, a jasmine note creeps in, and then a herbal and woodsy light incense develops, which morphs into a myrrh impression that never dominates the whole mix; this myrrh underlines the mix of the other components, providing added depth and richness. It becomes gradually sweeter, initially courtsy of a juicy ylang-ylang, and later due to a tonka undertone; this sweetness is beautifully balanced and never cloying or intrusive.
The base has list the aldehydes and feshness, and the floral side gives way to a more mossy, woodsy and ambery impression.
I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and a truly splendid fifteen hours of longevity on my skin.
This creation, great for cooler spring or autumn days, combines some creativity, high-quality ingredients and superb blending with a performance that truly deserves the 'perfum' epithet. A soft but rich chypre exuding elegance and substance. 4/5.
This is an extremely "clean smelling scent" which is not surprising considering the top notes of Cardamon, Grapefruit, Pink Pepper and Tarragon. The middle notes are Frankincense, Orange Blossom, Nutmeg and Geranium. The base is Moss, Vetiver, Patchouli and Sandalwood. This doesn't seem to be the tarragon of say a liquorish hint but more of a traditional tarragon. I don't get much grapefruit and no pink pepper that I can detect. In addition to the clean smell I get a TON of incense with a little geranium. The dry down is mostly sandalwood and the frankincense mingling. Overall this is not as good as the George Clooney scent but for a SUPER CLEAN strong scent this is nice. For 20 dollars US I would say it is a bargain.
Sweet and smokey... so far so good... then well its sweet (vanilla sweet) and smokey. Not sure if it's "fireplace" smokey but it is smokey. It does smell nice but it's been done before and is very linear. A neutral but the rating could be adjusted after a few more wearings.
I always considered Aramis to be the torch bearer of good quality affordable fragrances that are reformulated well.
I think Bogart is right there with Aramis with even better affordability.
This one starts like Gray Flannel. That is its only fault. Then after a minute it starts developing and keeps getting better. The spices come in and then the leather.
I would love to try the vintage version of it.
Again at less than $20/90ml, it should be a fragrance crime to not buy.
I always considered Aramis to be the torch bearer of good quality affordable fragrances that are reformulated well.
I think Bogart is right there with Aramis with even better affordability.
Pour Homme is a unique fragrance. The floral notes are reminiscent of Xeryus Rouge and Insense but done better here which is saying something about the composition. But then we should not be surprised as the nose is Maurice of Tocade.
The drydown is simply divine and one can see the resemblance to Tocade/Riverside in it.
The floral note and tonka gives it that cherry tobacco smell that has perplexed some of us as it is not in the pyramid.
Contrary to what has been said about it, I think it is a safe fragrance for every occasion (office too). Maybe the reformed version is toned down.
For the price (less than $20/100ml) it is just stupidity to not own one.
Opening with a dark green woodsy note, a touch boozy and lashed heavily with galbanum and brightened up a touch by a mandarin/lemony citrus note. Later on a slightly resinous myrrh impression is added. Very pleasant.
In the heart notes a nice, green jasmine note develops, which, at times, has a herbal undertone. The base adds a mossy note, and the myrrh undertone is still present thoughout this stage; this myrrh, however, never really claims a central rôle in this composition as it does, for instance, in Myrrhe Ardente.
I get moderate sillage, good projection, and seven hours if longevity on my skin.
An agreeable green-citrus-woodsy autumn chypre nlended well whist maintaing good structure. The quality of the ingredients is very respectable. 3.25/5.
A fancy/glamour night-out fragrance conceptually (and in part aromatically) a la One Million Prive' or Boss Bottled Night. A scent in the same league as several mainstream scents as Boss Bottled Night (and several Carolina Herrera or Armani as Armani Code Profumo as well) by combining woody-salty notes (like vetiver and cedarwood) with aromatics and cinnamonic/musky (more than vaguely sugary) amber. Cristiano Ronaldo Legacy is substantially an usual association of fresh aromatics (rooty, leafy and herbal) and warmer (piquant/dusty/cinnamonic) ambery-musky notes for a quite casual and fashionable night out in inamidate dark suit. I detect cardamom as well (combined with cinnamon and dusty tonkinina ambroxan). The base is a "traditional" woody-dusty (cinnamonic) amber with hints of tonka and musks. Deliberately synthetic and woody-cedary (in tone with the current "scream"). Not a bad creation di per se but surely not a creation in tune with the "immensity" of the absolute number one football player in the world.
I love Polo Double Black. Would describe it as a modern masculine fragrance. Reminds me of the strong cologne fragrance in the men's department at Bergners department store. Probably a date night cologne.
Boozy, rich, deep, dark, spicy and attractive as hell, the vintage Rumeur is a masterpiece - I am experiencing a small decant of the parfum.
The clove and carnation come to the fore immediately, rounded in civet and a dark vanilla that borders on the bitter. As it develops the floral fruity heart glides in - ylang, rose, jasmine - enveloped in cardamom. It finally settles into a fruity chypre base of peach, plum, oak moss, tobacco and leather.
Barbara Herman finds it "haunting, disturbing and dark." I find it to be amazingly rich and spicy, so thick to the nose that it resembles dark maple syrup, not in its notes, but in its consistency.
I may have to mortgage the house to find a bottle of vintage perfume online. Avoid the nasty 2006 version like the plague.
Iris with a honeyed woodsy undertone - that is what the top notes convey to me. The iris is light, less intense that in Dior Homme, and more delicate.
In the drydown a gentle and soft patchouli is developing in the background. The wood note morphs into a thin veil of a tenuous myrrh impression that is thinly cast over the whole set. This myrrhe is much more restrained than in Myrrhe Ardente. It fades away very slowly until the end.
I get soft sillage, adequate projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin.
This is a spring scent that is quite soft and thin. It is a delicate, nigh fragile at times, and hence the sweetness is never intrusive. More impressionist olfactory pointillism than stong expressionistic brush strokes. That the original was called Cologne points towards the lack of strength.
Overall a weak fragrance but well crafted, it just score a thumbs-up, barely. 3/5.
Myrrh and opoonax, with a bright and refreshing labdanum - delightful
Soon the freshness recants, and the rest is less interesting: wood and a smoky incense in the backgound.
Adequate sillage, good projection but limited longevity of five hours.
Good start, autumnal, very dull drydown. 2.75/5.
A boozy and slightly cinnamon-laced amber. Softly glowing and delicious the amber is, wamr and wintery.
The drydown adds tea and incence spices, nut quite faded in the base.
The sillage is moderate, the projection is very good and the longevity tem hours.
Autumnal, and very smooth and ambery - 3.25/5.
What a weird and unique fragrance is it!! One of the most resinous scents ever, a super rubbery/resinous and aromatic/spicy patchouli with a moody appeal and a leathery substance. Krizia Uomo Istinto starts weirdly rubbery-resinous (heady frankincense and amber galore) and super peppery but by soon like unfolding a sombre, vaguely liturgic, impersonal, aromatic, stark aura. Pepper is misty, "hairy" (I mean really piquant and craggy) and sticky (amber and frankincense are combined in a sticky-balsamic "fir resins' aroma conjuring" take no prisoners accord). There is a sort of Santa Maria Novella Nostalgia-like aura but overall in a less rubbery and more resinous way (with this strange sort of creamy-spicy resinous smoky aura a la Ziberman Oriental Adler or Miller Harris La Fumee). I get this dense incensey virile assertive patchouli overall while geranium provides a tad of fresh lymphatic leafiness. I don't get properly powder but mostly creamy resins, woodsy resins, "hard rock smoky leather" and mossy labdanum. Dry down is a pleasant synth woodsy (labdanum/frankincense-based), virile, grey (vaguely rosey) and leathery (black leather jacket like) accord to fully enjoy ok skin. Thumbs up.
I am almost always 99% in sync with the estimable ClaireV's opinions -- and 100% entertained by her witty writing.
And in the case of this scent, she is absolutely accurate in every description of its components and effects. But in a Bizarro World twist, every element of it that she finds objectionable I find utterly enchanting. Opening of "musky raw woods and candied grapefruit rind"? Check. Midpoint of "skanky moment...grappa...wood solvent"? Check. Ending of "woodsy or boise vanilla"? Check. And I love every second of it.
Vive la difference! Or perhaps: One woman's meat is another woman's poison?
I do seem to be getting a much greater smoky effect and much less sweetness than other wearers. In fact, the very rough vanilla is to me much more like a burning vanilla-ish pipe tobacco than a foody vanilla. And the sweetness, rather than candy, smells to me more like the smoke that wafts up from burning sugar, which I think does bear some resemblance to the sweet/bitter bite of candied grapefruit peel. Rough, harsh, and cozy, all at the same time. Plus: a staggering 18 hours of longevity. Straight to the top of my FBW list.
For the record I love lavender and get my fix from the lavender farmer at the farmers market in Manhattan.
I have no idea why this is so liked. Lavender and vanilla just don't work here.
Any lavender oil is better than this abomination.
Come to think of it Caron makes crappy masculines - this, 3 Man, Yatagan. All meh and overrated IMO
Avoid this and get lavender oil instead (available in your neighborhood grocery store)
The opening declares itself as an amber straight away, smooth but with a fresher bergamot edge initially, with judicious doses of marigold and cinnamon combining with benzoin to create the amber impression. This amber is rounded and not sharp at all.
Soon a lovely labdanum develops, together with a very soft patchouli adding additional depth and richness to the amber core. In the base added tonka and vanilla give it a sweet note, but only gently so.
The sillage is moderate, the projection excellent, and the longevity is ten hours on my skin.
A very nice autumnal and versatile amber composition that is very well blended. 3.5/5.
I was lucky enough to recently try a tester of this at the Bvlgari display in David Jones store in Sydney. The bottle itself wasn't on display as they will not be selling these until late February 2017, but the SA knew that I would be interested, so he bought out the tester bottles of this one, and the Onekh leather one and the Gyan jasmine/patchouli one.
The bottles are stunning in person and are a nice counter-point to the female Le Gemme series.
Ambero starts out very Oriental. The ginger, saffron and pepper are all distinguishable and soon the fragrance settles on the skin as a comfortable and familiar amber style of fragrance. Unlike a lot of other amber fragrances on the market, this one is not paired with tonka, vanilla or any type of dried fruit. However the familiarity I think comes from the recently released Colonia Ambra from Acqua di Parma.
As to longevity and sillage, I can't yet comment as I've only been wearing this for 2 hours. However, these are all EDP's so I would hope both would be considerable.
Of the 3 I tried I think that Gyan is the most unique and probably full bottle worthy.
I sampled half a dozen of the Zworykina perfumes, having read an approving review by Luca Turin. This was the one I could relate to the most.
Like Turin I am not normally enthusiastic about natural perfumes as they arguably impose an unnatural constraint on creativity. However, like him I feel they should be supported and encouraged along with home make cake and home brewed beer.
Fallen leaves does not smell precisely like fallen leaves; for some thoughts on how a more accurate rendering might may be attempted see the basenotes discussion. Without GCMS facilities it is probably very difficult. However, the Zworykina product does go some way towards meeting the concept in the abstract.
Smelling it blind (to avoid bias) I had the impression of a sophisticated lavender composition, like the mens fragrances of years ago. Probably with some lavender absolute, I thought. Reading the ingredient list I noted there is no lavender, though tonka is mentioned, which is possibly where the overlap occurred. The immortelle comes through nicely in the drydown, after a couple of days.
Overall, Fallen Leaves is a smooth and harmonious fragrance and pleasing to the senses, so I have given it the thumbs up. I remain to be convinced about all-natural perfumery, though.
18th January, 2017 (last edited: 20th January, 2017)
Bois du Portugal is one of the top members of the Creed-dynasty on the side of Vintage Tabarome, Cuir de Russie, Green Irish Tweed, Royal English Leather and few others. A super classic really masculine gentlemen-fragrance with a stout smoky woody-leathery initial assault (yet luxurious and royal due to a decadent hesperidic vibe), a green-spicy core (aromatic, vaguely minty, lemony-cologney and musky) and a luxurious "stuffy-retro" victorian final vibe a la (even for diverse reasons) Aramis JHL, Guerlain Mitsouko, Derby or Clinique Aromatics Elixir (with a restrained virile twist afforded by woods and spicy ambergris). Bergamot, aromatic lavender, astringent cedar, piquant ambergris and powdery woods unfold a quite classic-barbershop vibe in the middle between the great French chypre tradition, the 80's powerful aromatic fougere and the rosey-laundry victorian British olfactory historic school. Dry down is a gorgeous mix of powdery-mossy vaguely rosey woods (chypre, green-minty and poudree), spicy-hesperidic ambergris (piquant and virile) and stuffy powdery/hesperidic earthiness. An "ethernal" aristocratic fragrance (evocative about Royal Gardens) which will make you lording over all the other "lofty-affected" banqueters at Royal Court.
18th January, 2017 (last edited: 19th January, 2017)
This opening blast is quite something! Burning smoky rubber, leather, hints of latex, some benzoin with resinous birchtar - a delightful blend of rough smoky leather. At that stage the amber is more like a backdrop on this dramatic olfactory canvas.
The core principle underlying the development of the drydown is: lose the rough edges gradually, introduce a floral component, mainly iris, and see the amber increase in intensity and its presence over time gradually. Over time this turns into a warm, glowing and smooth amber, which dominates the base and peters out gradually.
I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and an impressive ten hours of longevity on my skin.
The first stage is very convincing, albeit of less high quality than, for instance, Knize Ten, and with a somwhat contrived leather impression, but nonetheless well crafted. The later stages with the amber in the centre of their development are also lovely, but a bit more linear. Overall a rather nice product. 3.5/5.
I don't know what I can add here that has not already been covered by the ambassador of this fragrance Monsieur Montana.
It is a great masculine fragrance. As already pointed out by DuNezDeBuzier, this is similar to Havana in structure. I find some Jacomo de Jacomo in it too.
Patch, spices and manliness in a bottle that will not break the bank.
From start to finish I love this scent (my wife on the other hand HATES IT). Any who some scents I wear for my personal enjoyment. As for the scent... it is a stunner. Strong at the start with gourmandish spices and a sweet honey like tobacco... the middle is also an amazing mix of vanilla and tobacco with a hint of tonka and cocoa to my nose. The dry down of woods with lingering vanilla and tobacco is simply amazing. A scent that will remain in my collection for as long as it's made (even if the price is slightly prohibitive). Enjoy!
This is a volcano in some southern island. It begins with cedar wood and mineral smoke. Then the lemon appears and the dry down offers some powdery rose. It ends with lemon again and vetiver and smoke stay for long. I'm unsure about it. My mind says I don't like it, and I shouldn't wear it, it's too manly and smoky for a short young-girl-looking woman like me, but I find myself going back to it all the time...
Sillage is moderate, and it's probably how it should be.
It's an oud perfume. Nothing groundbreaking if I'm honest, nothing too offensive either. In the dry down it turns from a strong oud to more of a woody number. I don't really notice the flower elements, there is a sweet element to it. I think its easily worn by both men and women, but it's not the most remarkable or interesting ouds there. It's nicely blended though
Longevity is surprising short, after 4 hours it became much harder to detect. I used about 0.5 ml so I'm surprised it goes so quickly.
Hmmm... There's a rather obvious Angel-inspired structure here - that infamous mix of burnt caramel and sweetened condensed milk. It starts off mixed with leafy greens, which threatens to turn quite sour and gross, but is saved by a floral haze that pulls everything together. Given time, sandalwood comes in and the burnt aspect starts to smell a bit like coffee. Meanwhile, some combination of the wood and milk creates a vague impression of nuts. Finally, it dries down to a lame "woody amber" aquatic base, which pretty much ruins everything. All that said, if I had to succinctly describe Noir Exquis, I'd have to say "woody green cheap aquatic Angel".
Thumbs down. It was hanging by a thread, but the cheap base killed it.
The opening notes, a brightish rose with ylang-ylang, davana and a hesperidic touch, are pleasant and well balanced with their sweetness that is not too heavy. The drydown adds whiffs of incense, tarragon and a slightly herbal cistus undertone.
The base adds a bit of a somewhat nondescript fruitiness, vetiver, but is also characterised by a very soft myrrhe compenent that is intertwined with a fairy generic soft patchouli.
I get moderate sillage, strong projection and eleven hours of longevity on my skin.
Thr first half of this autumnal creation, good especially for evenings, is dense and intensive, whilst the later parts are a touch less vivid and duller. Overall a nice creation and not without interesting ideas, and performing extremely well. 3.5/5.
Opening smelled like lily of the valley with a boozy note mixed in. I assume what I was smelling were the jasmine and mead notes listed. I wanted to sample this to smell the coniferous notes of fir cone and Norway Spruce. Unfortunately I didn't smell either one. I did smell a slight hay note, which I'm assuming is the straw note listed. I then picked up a slight animalic note. I'm not a fan of animalics, but it seemed to help this frag by toning down the strong floral opening and rounding the overall smell out. It then started becoming a much smoother overall scent and I began to enjoy it. There is a bit going on here, and I need to try this several more times before I have a good feel for it, but it seemed to develop into something I enjoyed before it was all said and done.
Creosote bush and violets. Not bad. Smells like growing shrubs with a hint of minerals and some floral. I wouldn't buy a full bottle however.
I just want to say I love this fragrance! Does it last long? Not really, but it's not horrible. Does it project well? Not really but not horrible either. I feel the scent is very unique and although it's a sport scent it comes off classier and more versatile than most sport fragrances do. The ginger and grapefruit at the beginning is amazing and that ginger vibe really hangs on good for me. I get a good six or seven hours on my skin and get pretty good projection for probably three hours or so. Is it as good as Dior homme sport or allure homme sport? Performance no but it's also a lot less expensive and the scent is completely different in my opinion.
Petroleum by Histoires de Parfums opens with citrus rubber band-aid and then morphs into WWIII as all the petrol fields in the world start smoking at once. WWIII simmers down and to expose that trademark old books and furniture accord that HdP does so well. Now I’m getting a touch of carpet infused with cigarette smoke. The carpet (and maybe the couch) is probably on fire because burning plastic is in there somewhere too. This probably sounds terrible, and to some it probably will be, but there is an elegance to the whole mess that makes it seem, well, wearable. Under all of the madness a dignified, soapy leather is screaming for help. It’s definitely one of the strangest fragrances I’ve ever tried.
I’m not going to wear it, but someone should.