Fragrance Reviews from October 2011

    Showing 151 to 180 of 963.
    Sneki's avatar

    Serbia Serbia

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    Fracas by Robert Piguet

    I tried several times this fragrance in perfume shop (of course, always with a few others) and concluded that it was not for me because "I do not like tuberose." Well, recently I received a sample of it and when I tried it properly, I realized that I was so wrong. It is not tuberose, that bothers me in some perfume, but it is always a combination of ingredients. The composition of Fracas is brought to perfection, giving a seductive, flirtatious, and above all classy perfume.
    In the opening I can sense jasmine, with slight fruity accords. After some time, they are joined by tuberose, which gives that bubble-gum touch to the perfume. In dry down this bubble-gummy scent becomes slightly powdery, probably from iris. If you don`t like this perfume at first glance, I recommend to give it another chance.

    05 October, 2011

    sherapop's avatar

    United States United States

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    Black Sea by Martine Micallef

    My first foray through the house of Micallef has been a felicitous one! BLACK SEA is a real beauty to my nose. Although at the very opening I thought that this might be a run-of-the-mill sandalwood/cinnamon oriental, as the perfume developed, and the saffron emerged to play a central role, I became more and more smitten with this scent, which definitely seems unisex to me.

    The blend is perfect, with none of the notes overwhelming the others but saffron always shining through. I do not find the clove at all loud, and I am hypersensitve to clove, so that means something... In the end, I have to say that this is one of the better saffron orientals I've sniffed, and I do recommend it to anyone who loves saffron as a note in woody oriental perfumes. I do not think that this is the most revolutionary or original composition, but the drydown is just great! Excellent longevity, too.

    05 October, 2011

    Sneki's avatar

    Serbia Serbia

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    Parfum d'Hermès by Hermès

    Perfume with incredible silage that lasts for about 2 hours on my skin. I received, only compliments, although it has a bit of a "retro" touch. Like most of the Hermes perfumes, it has that special combination of notes that gives its elegance.
    Initially I mostly feel bergamot in combination with floral and balsamic notes. In later development powdery iris with hint of vetiver and amber became predominant. It has quite good longevity. I prefer to wear it during fall, winter and spring. This perfume is twin with Hermes Rouge.

    05 October, 2011

    Darvant's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    H.M. by Hanae Mori

    A light gourmand not particularly brash or bold in order to privilege (anyway to try doing it) balance, complexity and moderation. The initial blast doesn't seem a prelude for a gourmand fragrance being it citrusy, herbal and green with an accord of synthetic mint and lavender very captivating and notable in the following faint gourmand evolution. In a few time some floral mildness starts rising in its rosey body and jasmine's lightness making the introdution for the upcoming gourmand pronounced sweetnes that has the smell of white choccolate, vanilla, rose-jasmine, minty Hedione and woods. The aromatic cream is light and apologetic under my nose in the way this fragrance, in support of its more notable balance, lacks that controversial, minimalistic and disputed brash and bold insolence of A*Man and Animale. The synthetic, mentholated " aromaticism" here is toned down in comparison with A*Man and obviously is not present that bombastic kind of patchouli that elicited the worldwide fame of the Mugler one. An opportunity in the "fragrantic" ocean.

    05 October, 2011 (Last Edited: 07 October, 2011)

    Darvant's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Black Diamond by Canali

    An unluckily discontinued blend of fruits ( we must underline the notable strong orangy-neroli accord and the peaches) greens, sweet spices, nocturnal flowers, woods and synthetic suede in the way the outcome is a delicious silky orangy-leathery fragrance with nuances of melon, peaches and jasmine. The chord of orange, grapefruit, bergamot, sandalwood and cedarwood reminds me a bit the starting stage of Roma Uomo which is finally more vanillic and resinous while Black Diamond ends more leathery. The final floral smoothness reminds me a bit Jasmine Noir that is less fruity and masculine. The final accord of cedarwood, vetiver, amber and tonka enhances the virility of the juice and the grapefruit, bergamot and violet presence is not as angular to compromise the final silkiness. Pleasant for leisure time at evening in the spring time.

    05 October, 2011 (Last Edited: 07 October, 2011)

    JackTwist's avatar

    United States United States

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    Alegria by Lili Bermuda

    This is a lovely scent, reminiscent of tuberose and peach combined, although neither is an ingredient. It most resembles the classic Piguet FRACAS and the Penhaligon's ELLENESIA for comparison.

    This is the newest launch (2011) for a company that's been in existence since the 1920s, recently bought, library reformulated, some scents discarded, new ones added, over the past 8 years.

    If you compare this to the above two scents, it is not as strong or long lasting as these two, but it's half the price - a great selling point for those who love a heady, fruity, white floral.

    05 October, 2011 (Last Edited: 07 October, 2011)

    JackTwist's avatar

    United States United States

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    Coral by Lili Bermuda

    This is a very light mix of rose and tuberose - quite affordable compared to other front line takes on this combo. Something one would splash on before going out to a late afternoon cocktail party in the setting sun.

    Lili Bermuda scents are on the whole quite light and easily wearable. The only detriment others have noted elsewhere is that they don't last a long time. However, they are so affordable, that a number of splashes throughout the day or evening is well worth the price in the long run.

    Not outstanding, but perfectly pleasant.

    05 October, 2011 (Last Edited: 07 October, 2011)

    JackTwist's avatar

    United States United States

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    Lily by Lili Bermuda

    For those of you who love the scent of Muguet (Lily of the Valley), you will be happy to learn of Lili Bermuda's LILY.

    I had assumed it was based on the heady and fragrant white Easter Lily, as this was the firm's primary scent from the 1920s throughout the 1960s. This was discontinued when the company was bought in 2004 and this new scent is devoted to the more unassuming tiny bell of Muguet.

    The effect is that of Muguet supported by light rose and fragrant woods. Two other Muguet scents come to mind - Penhaligon's LILY OF THE VALLEY and Christian Dior's DIORISSIMO. Since the Lili Bermuda LILY is half the price of the former and comparable to the latter, it is certainly a reasonable alternative to the these two classics.

    Highly recommended for those in love with Muguet.

    05 October, 2011 (Last Edited: 07 October, 2011)

    JackTwist's avatar

    United States United States

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    Petals by Lili Bermuda

    This is a very sweet scent, reminiscent of Caswell Massey's HELIO. This is primarily due to the Honeysuckle note, one note Coty despaired of every getting right and died before he had accomplished it.

    The scent opens with a burst of Jasmine, followed by green notes, and finally the Honeysuckle dry down. The launch date for this is 2009.

    One should wear this sparingly as it is a scent that can become cloying if over-applied. It does fill a niche in the perfume world that has been left behind and can be quite lovely to wear of a spring morning.

    Recommended - and it is quite affordable as are all the Lili Bermuda products.

    05 October, 2011 (Last Edited: 07 October, 2011)

    vera wang's avatar



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    Aqua Manda by Goya

    A company in Hebden Bridge are now manufacturing the Goya Aqua Manda. I bought some for my mother and she absolutely loved it, said it was just as she remembered. You can buy it online also at feathergills.co.uk along with Black Rose by Goya, Californian Poppy and Mischief.

    05 October, 2011 (Last Edited: 13 October, 2011)

    Darvant's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Zino Davidoff by Davidoff

    Really a great fragrance that in its different and diverse stages of the complex development represents and embodies a middle level between a dark and sunny fragrance, a classic sharp  citrus-lavender and a modern gourmand, a masculine green, stiff fougere and a romantic almost unisex soapy woody-vanilla. In the same vein of fragrances as the more citrusy Boucheron Pour Homme and the slightly leathery and dustier Versace L'Homme, Zino starts with a clary sage, citrus-lavender and bergamot blast with hints of rosewood and spices. This starting is a bit rough, surely sharp and green but over all is multifaceted and changeful in the way there is place for the performances of each of the protagonists. This blast is the door for the following floral development with the note of geranium placed in order to reinforce the sharpness before the following soapy attack of amber-vanilla and with a starring chord of rose-lily of the valley that features the taste of the following density. The last is introduced by the new entry in scene of a vanilla, amber and sandalwood accord that is mild, dense but never cloying cause balanced by accents of cedar, musk , moss and by an earthy-smokey link of tobacco and patchouli in the way that the final smell is oily, green, distinguished with an autoritative patchouli and mild of woods and sweet powdery tobacco. A pillar and i can't understand how could anybody write in an opposite emphatic way.

    05 October, 2011 (Last Edited: 07 July, 2012)

    Darvant's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Minotaure by Paloma Picasso

    In a sculptured with caftsmanship bottle  this far better version of Roma Uomo is an olfactory powdery-vanillic equivalent of the joy of life with its blend of orangy and rosey-aldehydic amber and woody vanilla. The initial sharp link of hesperides, aromatic herbs, rosey bath soap, lavender and aldehydes introduces a traditional classic kind of starting a bit old school and soaring in the air with a flying  long projection. The orangy and floral smell starts soon to morph in to a soothed mild-woody amber-vanilla base that remains discreet and balanced becoming finally a bit powdery, mossy and leathery but never cloying. The note of geranium manteins a certain level of angular sharpness while the jasmine in its link with balsams and orange embodies a sort of rosey smell that  on the side of orange flavours the final suede. I agree who with writes that Roma Uomo is a more sweet, synthetic and simplistic kind of scent that lacks that sort of retro and barber shop floral-lavender-herbal more discreet kind of complexity. Because of Minotaure's distinctiveness, moderation in powder and balance i find  more similarities of genre with fragrances as Japuir or Patricia de Nicolai's New York than with The Dreamer, Pi or Le Male ( while the gourmand fragrances are a very different genre from this with their tasty-edible notes). A well appointed ambery-oriental with a mature fruity-herbal temperament, a certain level of survived sharpness and a joyful floral soul.

    05 October, 2011 (Last Edited: 14 November, 2013)

    cello's avatar

    United States United States

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    Lann-Ael by Lostmarc'h

    This is all about sweet, creamy, milky vanilla. It smells like a kitchen after baking, it smells like a few Yankee candles I've smelled, and it doesn't stray too far from that all the way through. If you like your vanilla on the sweet and comforting side, this one could work for you. Curl up with a good book on a cold night, and then enjoy the comfort of the drydown when you drift off to sleep at night.

    It only gets a neutral rating from me because I just wouldn't wear this one out of the house, and I would have to be in the right mood for it. But the neutral is certainly not because it doesn't smell good - it does! It's maybe just a tad too sweet for me. Bedtime or book - that's where this one could shine for a lot of people.

    06 October, 2011

    electric33's avatar

    United States United States

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    Dirt by Demeter Fragrance Library

    It just stopped raining and this is my first time trying Dirt. Outside right now in the crisp, clean night air I smell the same as the air. I love this fragrance! I'm not sure Dirt is really what I smell on my skin. It's more like damp leaves, the way tree bark smells when you walk on it. Breeze that carries fresh, clean leaf and flower aromas. This is a nice fragrance.

    06 October, 2011

    forfreddie's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Complex by Boadicea the Victorious

    I went into this expecting a sharp violet, a filthy leather with strong animalic musks... beautiful!
    However... I was wrong. I seriously tried my best to enjoy this fragrance. The first harsh, bitter blast is a very green, dirty smell, and this smell of upturned earth stays as the main feature throughout this scent. I tried hard to pick out the violets, if they are there, they are buried under piles of decaying leaves, it is not sweet or powdery in any way.
    I really couldnt smell any animalics and if the base is leather, it is a cheap, very very over worn leather. It is a long lasting bitter earth scent, slightly medicinal, with big sillage unfortunately.
    Whilst yes you could describe this as complex, if you were to sniff it on a passer by, you'd probably just think of it as a very pungent, bad cologne.

    06 October, 2011

    forfreddie's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    AB by Blood

    I went into this fragrance with a very open mind, having not tried many of these 'ozonic, minimal, photocopier and celestial explosion whatever descriptive' fragrances.
    This is bad, it is really just, no, it's not pleasant, whatever way you look at it.
    AB is extremely linear and has pretty good longevity. As this smells throroughly synthetic, I will try base this description on comparisons and visual descriptions. Although this does not smell like chlorine, I imagine a swimming pool, drained and scrubbed, this is the left behind scent.
    The only scent it reminded me of was the blood and semen accords of Secretions Magnifique. Imagine SM without the milk accords and without the minute traces of iris and coconut. What you are left with is a slightly salty - hit the back of your throat - metallic smell. Add a very minute drop of synthetic 'citrus' a-la cleaning products, and you get this chemical conundrum, which manages to make you feel grubby and uncomfortable despite it being a hyper clean synthetic.
    It doesnt work with my skin to become any better, it sits on top of it in a light fuzz and which luckily, scrubbed off after a few hours better than SM.

    06 October, 2011

    Reminiscent's avatar

    France France

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    Racine by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

    A solid and relatively safe vetiver citrus scent.

    Longevity is really disappointing. It is sad because the top notes are nice and bracing with quality raw materials. I personally prefer vetivers with more substance and relief so Racine is not my first choice. Mona di Orio and Villoresi make vetivers that better fit the bill.

    06 October, 2011

    forfreddie's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Musc Ravageur by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

    I have tried this numerous times in both the oil and the EDP.
    I see the appeal with Musc Ravageur I do, I love musk, my recent sample of MKK has sent me a bit loopy for animalics. MR is not a typical musk smell, I dont pick up any animalics in here at all.
    Once sprayed, and the slightly cinnamon/clove spice settles, MR feels a lot like an oil, not literally of course, but it wraps around the skin and doesnt project too much, it feels silky and sensual. There is vanilla, amber and a well blended combination of spices which are quite difficult to pick out individually.
    However, my concern is this:
    One time I cooked a salmon dish from a recipe... I am getting somewhere I promise. Anyway, I had to mix a load of corn oil, with one vanilla pod and the beans, 2 star anise, black peppercorns and some bay leaves, I left this overnight which was to be used to cook the salmon in. This oil... is Musc Ravageur. Trust me. Musk ravageur is a vanilla, slightly spicy/herby scent with very mild anise, with the scent of corn oil as a base. For this personal reason, my thumbs up slips sideways... The literal oil smell is too potent for me and makes me feel unclean, not in a typically dirty/raunchy/animalic way, just literally a little greasy.

    06 October, 2011

    sherapop's avatar

    United States United States

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    Datura Noir by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Tuberose is tricky. In Serge Lutens DATURA NOIR, it is very, very thick, in large part, I believe, due to the marked coconut note. Coconut is also tricky, and tends to overwhelm in more than minuscule doses. To my nose, this combination of tuberose and coconut is simply too heavy-handed. I love the tuberose in FRACAS and CARNAL FLOWER, but combined with the coconut cream in this composition, it seems dense and impenetrable, like a blob of, well, yes, I hate to admit it: suntan lotion!

    My objection to this scent is not grounded in a general abhorrence of tropical tuberose compositions. Believe it or not, I number among the tiny faction of true believers in and fervent devotees of Guerlain MAHORA. Why do I regard MAHORA as a masterpiece (Guerlain's final chef-d'oeuvre, may that once illustrious house rest in peace...) and DATURA NOIR as something of a flop? Perhaps it is the sheer weight of the later which drags it down, preventing any significant development on my skin. MAHORA, in contrast, unfurls in delightful layers over the course of its trajectory from opening to drydown. I truly love MAHORA (which many people detest), and yet I would never wear DATURA NOIR, even if I had a bottle lying around.

    I have seen no comparisons by anyone of DATURA NOIR to MAHORA but would be very interested to know what those who adore DATURA NOIR think of the Guerlain perfume (launched in 2000, one year before SL DN...). My suspicion is that anyone who loves DATURA NOIR would also love MAHORA, though I obviously serve as a refutation of the converse claim! (-: And it seems pretty clear to me that anyone who hates MAHORA is unlikely to think highly of DATURA NOIR.

    The moral of this story: no one who lacks infinite liquid assets should buy niche perfume scent unsniffed!

    06 October, 2011

    vintage*red's avatar

    United States United States

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    Cuir de Russie by Chanel

    Maybe it's me, maybe it's the new regs, but I am so dissappointed in this fragrance. Yes, it is well balanced like any respectable Chanel, but my problem is that this scent is too well behaved. It starts as a soft floral leather and ends...period. It is not long lasting on my skin and it never "blooms". It is not evil nor is it unusual nor is it beautiful. It's pretty while it lasts, which is not enough for me to buy another bottle. On my third try, I just sprayed over it with Cuir de Lancome. Sorry, Folks.

    06 October, 2011

    electric33's avatar

    United States United States

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    Chinatown by Bond No. 9

    I have been wearing Bond No. 9 Chinatown for about
    one hour. The first few minutes I smelled primarily a
    peachy-orange fragrance. It slowly faded into a woodsy,
    sexy, very very slight gardenia
    & tuberose incense kind of
    smell and that is still what I
    still smell. The name does fit it
    - it reminds me of some of my
    favorite small stores with well
    walked on wooden floors in
    Manhattan Beach & Palos
    Verdes & San Francisco.
    Definitely a pleasant woodsy
    incense aroma is what comes
    to mind. I can't stop smelling
    my wrist, I do like this
    fragrance. I hate to do this but I am now writing another piece to this review. My husband & I went for a walk together an hour ago. He asked if I was wearing Old Spice- a mans after shave. He said he did not like this fragrance at all. I still like it & it still has the incense scent from before. It will be hard for me to wear it though because he dislikes it so much.

    06 October, 2011

    suburbanites's avatar

    United States United States

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    Sartorial by Penhaligon's

    I don't know anyone still around that might recognize what a Savile Row tailor's shop would smell like, let alone turn that into a fragrance. Nonetheless, there are a couple of issues to address in Sartorial. First, is the opening is quite harsh, very metallic and ozonic, and a bit difficult to break through as it is completely dominant for the first 30-40 minutes. Second, is that I think that it's trying much too hard to be something more than it really is. Finally, despite the ingredient list longer than a box of Twinkies, this manages to still be rather linear in its transformation.

    I don't get aromatic fougere from this at all, but I feel transfixed from the opening on this as a Barbershop-like clean scent, which isn't a bad thing. That remained from the top -- where it was most overpowering -- to its base several hours later , when it became tolerable, sedated, and a bit more refreshing, and certainly more powdery in the dry-down. Again, it seemed analagous to a barbershop visit from my childhood where you open with that very strong after-shave aroma, calmed later by talcum powder. The scent is simple, clean, fairly unpretentious in the final outcome.

    So why did it take more than 24 different elements to resurrect what otherwise would be a turn-of-century, classic experience? The outcome seems too spare for the elements in the composition, many of which are beyond detection -- for instance, I don't sense wood or leather in this at all, though I'd say it was over-the-top if I noticed those as well.

    I don't dislike it, though compared to my other scents, this isn't one I'd find myself wearing much. It's not quite my personal style or profile, despite it being both jolly well-executed and jolly pricey.

    06 October, 2011

    nofixedstars's avatar

    United States United States

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    Infusion d'Iris by Prada

    This was so not on my radar, despite the fact that I do like iris, because of reading so many dismissive reviews; thank heavens for the local discount shops! I ran across a 3.4 ounce bottle of Prada IdI at an irresistible price, scooped it up, promptly spritzed it on at home, and found a new perfume to keep in rotation. It is delicate but not insipid at all. Utterly intriguing and satisfying. I adore the touch of subtle incense in it, and the iris is entirely convincing. It simply smells gorgeous and is clearly composed of really nice quality ingredients. The cedar is genius in it, as it underlines and unites the whole composition without asserting itself distinctly. It's rich yet subtle...A skin scent that won't project much, but one that people close to you will notice, and one that is pleasingly uncommon in nature. I will sleep in this also... Downsides: expensive outside ye olde discount shoppe, needs fairly frequent reapplication on me at least. Upsides: absolutely bang-up top quality scent, subtle but distinctive, rather sexy in its own way, and perfectly unisex.

    06 October, 2011

    m_uberaba's avatar



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    Kokorico by Jean Paul Gaultier

    Better than strange Fleur du Male, but without any creativity. Reminds a lot of Armani Attitude who reminds BMen from Mugler. More the same!!!

    06 October, 2011

    orangefiction's avatar

    United States United States

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    Cuba Gold by Cuba Paris

    I bought this one because I wanted to try something that smelled like le male. It smells like mint and vanilla toothpaste it is very strong and I do not like it at all!

    06 October, 2011

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    B by Blood

    B strikes as a spicy oriental and, in the "mankind-evolution-concept" on which the whole line is based, should represents mass migrations, new discoveries/journeys and the renaissance. Smells bold and spicy, with a consistent patchouli note on which bizarre juxtapositions of acidic fruits (apple) and astringent artemisia plays together with pepper to create an interesting, but not completely satisfying, composition. In the drydown dry woods and tea darken the fragrance while a slight metallic note works as a sort of signature for the whole line.

    Again, don't expect something disturbing or disgusting as nothing here is aimed to resemble blood itself. The Blood Concept is based on the evolution of mankind through blood types and not to a sort of provocation a-la Secretion Magnifique.

    Very far from being a masterpiece but still a nice attempt to create a conceptual fragrance. Good projection and great lasting power.

    Downside: This is the most accesible of the whole line (read more conventional). It is basically a patchouli centered composition and, honestly, when it comes to patchouli you can have much better options out there.

    06 October, 2011

    Possumbility's avatar



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    Bal à Versailles by Jean Desprez

    Just got some of the EDC (white bottle, gold cap) off Evilbay. Not sure of the vintage, but the blue box lacks the Der Grüne Punkt and ingredients are listed as alcohol, water, and fragrance and D&C Brown n.l, so before 1991, I figure.
    Whatever the date, I like this stuff. Powdery honey spice with a root-beer tinted musk. Reminds me of vintage Tabu, but more refined. More call girl than reasonably priced, conveniently located sex worker. I would love to try the vintage parfum.
    Actually this would be a great scent for a roller derby girl. It's strong, feminine, charmingly retro and would go well with sweat.

    06 October, 2011

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    AB by Blood

    When I first knew about this line I thought about something targeted to teenagers obsessed with Twilight and the whole vampire thing but then, after I got an informative brochure from my retailer I realized that this line has a more "artistic" concept.

    The Blood Concept line has nothing to do with blood itself (or Secretions Magnifique kind of stuff), they're more based on the concept that evolution happened mainly through blood types. AB should represent the urban life, big cities, technology, modernism (the contemporary era). IMO this is the weirdest of the whole line. It opens with a blast of sparkling and sharp aldehydes with a remarkable metallic note. The overall effect is cold, almost freezing and smells somehow halfway between unripe fruits and synthetic pine (???). Weird. Mineral notes lurks in the back while a watery accord remarks its presence adding even more cleanness. Usually I'm not into "clean" kind of fragrances but this composition push the clean/aldehydic aspect to the very limit becoming somehow intriguing and definitely futuristic (read: never smelled something like this before).

    AB projects pretty good and has a remarkable lasting power (more than 8hrs on my skin). Wearable? Not sure yet but while it is definitely a bizarre composition, it resembles anything but blood (which in this case is obviously good). Clean, sparkling, cold and sort of aseptic. Wether you'll like it or not be aware that AB is anything but disgusting. Vampires has to watch somewhere else. Again, more of a piece of conceptual "art" than a body fragrance.

    06 October, 2011

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    O by Blood

    Modern Primitive. This is my "favorite" of the whole line. An uncompromising concoction of rough animalic leather, birch tar and spices juxtaposed to a fruity/woody accord. It should represents the origin of life when men used to be predators. Smells industrial and urban but at the same time very primitive. Smoky, intense, earthy and definitely bizarre. The strawberry note morph into something vaguely familiar recalling a sort of sweet rose while the usual metallic note (what they call the "blood accord") is perfectly blended together with the other elements to feel pleasantly integrated.

    Overall "O" may appeal to anyone who's into challenging fragrances a-la CDG's Synthetic Serie or Tauer's Lonestar Memories (but nowhere close to either though). It's somehow familiar but the first time you smell it it's definitely astonishing, like something you've ever known but you never realized to know.

    In the end I rank the whole Blood Concept line among the artistic/conceptual fragrances. Something that you can wear every once in a while just like one of those sculpture hats by Stephen Jones. More of an "object" than a proper body fragrance.

    When it comes to "weird but wearable" there's nothing like CDG.

    06 October, 2011 (Last Edited: 15 October, 2011)

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