Fragrance Reviews from February 2011

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    Diamondflame's avatar

    Singapore Singapore

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    Maharadjah by Nicolaï

    MAHARADJAH's searing lavender opening takes me by surprise but mellows out all too quickly as the dusty spices gain in strength, the interplay between the soapy sweet and dry piquancy reminding me somewhat of Diptyque's excellent Eau Lente. The cinnamon note is indeed robust but not overbearing. A fleeting menthol note hints at 'mint' though it could just be the patchouli permeating through.

    After the interesting introduction, it goes downhill... or so it seems. Fragrance development is probably a little too rapid for my liking - it wasn't long before I was left with a softly resinous oriental drydown: amber, opoponax, sandalwood. Smooth but a little tame. Certainly not what I would expect from such an opulently-named fragrance. But it wears well on skin and projects nicely. de Nicolai's use of lavender in an oriental-styled composition may be unexpected but undeniably inspired.

    13th February, 2011

    Spoombung's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Rêverie au Jardin by Tauer

    Lavender? I can hardly smell it at all -just an unpleasant, synthetic, plastic top end followed by a mushroom cloud of icing sugar and tonka bean powder that catches the back of my throat.

    13th February, 2011

    teardrop's avatar

    England England

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    Acaciosa by Caron

    This is a delightfully smooth, creamy, warm floral. l get a syrupy, slightly musty sweetness from the candied pineapple in the opening, then honeyed, powdery florals. There's a little lily of the valley, & a restrained jasmine that's not at all green. The rose isn't obvious to me. After about 40 minutes the white florals become very clean & soapy, which l like, & after 2 hours there's a soft, woodsy, sweet amber. lt all stays beautifully warm & creamy, the sillage is good, & it lasts an astonishing 10 hours on my skin.
    My sample was sent by a generous basenoter, but unfortunately leaked in transit, so l only have a tiny amount left. l feel the need to spend more time with this fragrance, so l plan to try & get a decant at some point. l think it could be love!

    13th February, 2011

    Francop's avatar

    Spain Spain

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    Fracas for Men by Robert Piguet

    Great masculine scent for the assertive types...lots of citrusy notes to start with followed by peppery, leather and woody notes...

    I guess this scent was formulated in the 80`s...not for everyday use but for days where you feel up beat, in control and happy with the wonderful world we live in...

    If you are a half full glass type, give Fracas for men a try...

    Adequate longevity and sillage...

    Thumbs up of course...

    13th February, 2011

    teardrop's avatar

    England England

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    French Cancan by Caron

    The bitter-herbal opening quickly dies down, allowing powdery floral notes to come through. l get mainly violet & something like heliotrope, & in this phase it reminds me a little of L'Heure Bleue. There's an earthiness to this fragrance, reminiscent of my garden on a wet autumn day, complete with damp soil & leaves. lt doesn't smell anything like it's name to me; it's more of a contemplative fragrance than an upbeat one. lt fades after about 4 hours. l'm giving this a neutral because, although l don't dislike it, l can't see myself reaching for it often.

    13th February, 2011

    teardrop's avatar

    England England

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    Opium by Yves Saint Laurent

    Overwhelmingly hot, spicy & powerful to my nose. l don't get any of the floral notes in this. Suitable only for very cold weather, & even then only with a light hand, & as far away from me as possible please.

    13th February, 2011

    teardrop's avatar

    England England

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    Belle d'Opium by Yves Saint Laurent

    l actually expected to like this, as the notes listed are some of my favourites. For a moment in the opening l thought l sensed creamy white florals, but then the moment was gone, replaced by the crushing realisation that this was yet another generic, deadly dull fruity floral. There is certainly nothing addictive about this, & it lasts barely 2 hours. lt bears no relation to the original Opium, by the way.

    13th February, 2011

    PerfumeCollector's avatar

    United States United States

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    Omar Sharif pour Femme by Omar Sharif

    An outstanding perfume, exotic, mysterious, dark, oscure and indescribable.
    Get it if you can.

    13th February, 2011

    teardrop's avatar

    England England

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    Private Collection Amber Ylang-Ylang by Estée Lauder

    Velvety-smooth, sweet, salty, sensuous & elegant amber! l get a fleeting note of sharp bergamot in the opening, & a subtle, creamy floral note further in, but otherwise this is just a lovely & soft, very feminine amber all the way to the drydown of woody incense hours later. Like it's sister scent, Tuberose Gardenia, it's quality shines through, & it's quite possibly FBW after l finish my mini.

    13th February, 2011

    teardrop's avatar

    England England

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    Obsession by Calvin Klein

    Strong, spicy & woody, this is a sillage monster in the same vein as Opium, & lasts forever. Several days after testing, l can still smell it on my coat sleeve. l prefer it to Opium however, because it dries down to a warm, sweetish amber, which saves it for me. lf you'd like this fragrance with the volume turned down, l recommend you seek out the discontinued Sheer Obsession.

    13th February, 2011

    teardrop's avatar

    England England

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    Sheer Obsession by Calvin Klein

    Yes, this truly is a sheer version of the original; the same notes but without the deafening volume. lf anything, the notes are more defined in this version. l get the bergamot & surely some opoponax, as well as the spices, & the amber becomes apparent much earlier on than in the original. l wore it often during the cold, snowy weather we had this winter, & it warmed me up beautifully.
    This has sadly been discontinued, but l managed to get a good deal on a bottle from ebay. lt is becoming very rare though, so if you want a less in-your-face version of Obsession, snap it up before it disappears forever!

    13th February, 2011

    piotrek's avatar



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    Eau du Fier by Annick Goutal

    This is a transcendental scent.

    13th February, 2011

    teardrop's avatar

    England England

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    Obsession Night by Calvin Klein

    First of all, don't expect this to bear too much resemblance to the original Obsession, & second, don't be fooled by the addition of the word "night". This stands up as a lovely fragrance in it's own right, & for me it works well as a daytime scent.
    l get a citrussy opening, & then some floral notes, possibly tuberose & magnolia. The amber appears after 20 minutes, & at this point it strikes me as very similar to L'Instant! The sillage is soft, but it's actually quite long-lasting, especially in a warm environment.
    This has been discontinued, but still seems to be easily available on ebay, so if you want to try it, get it while you can!

    13th February, 2011

    teardrop's avatar

    England England

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    Dune by Christian Dior

    This certainly is a unique & rather strange fragrance, & yet it draws you in , in an effort to understand its' mystery. l get a dry, sharp citrus in the opening, along with a saltiness, then as it develops there's a touch of amber, but that dry, almost herbal note (the broom?) stays with you all the way through to the drydown many hours later. lt really is as dry as a desert, & as prickly as a cactus, but in the base the desert blooms gently with a floral musk. l wouldn't call this a comfort scent, as it's almost disturbing in its' otherness. Neither would l call it sexy; it's too sharp-edged for that. l like it, but l'm at a loss as to when l would wear it, so l will simply admire it from afar as a work of art.

    13th February, 2011

    teardrop's avatar

    England England

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    Cinéma by Yves Saint Laurent

    After the aldehydic opening, this is a fresh, sweet & very pretty floral, with a lovely, honey-like note of almond blossom. As it dries down it becomes more powdery & ambery. The sillage is good & it lasts around 5-6 hours on me. l don't get the associations with the name; l think this is simply a classy yet youthful fragrance, perfect for Spring.

    13th February, 2011

    Spoombung's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Vetiver Dance by Tauer

    This is a weird, intense, mix of inedible, green roots and strong soap powder (as Caltha noted in the reviews here).

    There is something very annoying about it that I can't quite put my finger on and I'm busy trying to decide if it's the 'good' annoying kind or the 'bad'. It's almost certainly the 'bad' kind because I'm finding it charmless and slightly depressing and it reminds me of chewing on grass roots or attempting to eat something naively and experimentally in the long grass when I was a kid... then having to spit it out.

    Like all the Tauer perfumes, this is MEGA powerful and has a furry, powdery, base that outstays it's welcome by hours and seems impervious to scrubbing.

    13th February, 2011 (Last Edited: 14th February, 2011)

    Gilgamesh2003's avatar

    United States United States

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    Allure Homme by Chanel

    Allure Homme proves that a scent can be good without being interesting. It's extremely soft and fairly sweet, it smells expensive (or at least high quality), it contains no unusual or distinctive accords, and its projection is decidedly muted. I'm not surprised that it has wide appeal among people who don't wish to concern themselves with the arcana of perfumes.

    Allure is like a charcoal gray cashmere sweater - unexciting, comfortable, unobtrusive, and versatile. I don't get much structure here - everything dries down quickly to a base of creamy, bittersweet vanilla with a diminishingly slight astringent note that probably comes from the vetiver and patchouli. I find it difficult to pick out the notes. Do I detect a subtle trace of bracing, fresh calone? Maybe!

    It's hard to get excited about Allure Homme, but I certainly don't think it's a neutral or bad fragrance. There's something quite nice about it. This review may make it sound mediocre, which it isn't. Nor is it exactly bland, but it is inconspicuous and pleasant. Maybe it would have been better if it had been a memorable disaster.

    EDIT: I've revisited Allure Homme and I find myself more taken with it. This is not a scent for niche lovers who want to pick out exotic natural notes or find the weirdest possible accords. Allure Homme is more like a surpassingly elegant, well-made version of a drugstore scent - something with a broad appeal, clean and good smelling. I think this would be terrific on a woman as well. It's unambitious, but it's also very nice.

    13th February, 2011 (Last Edited: 24th February, 2011)

    kurt0's avatar



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    Allure Homme Sport by Chanel

    A definite try. A very safe, fresh citrus with a touch of creaminess to it. My swiss army knife for sure. It is great for any age, and pretty unisex IMO...good longevity and projection/also lasts awhile on clothing.
    This is my special occasion fragrance! But, it can be a year round signature scent, work scent, night out- anything. it'll be good for any situation. If you are into more "masculine" scents, it MIGHT not be for you.

    13th February, 2011 (Last Edited: 01st March, 2011)

    silentrich's avatar

    United States United States

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    Jacomo de Jacomo Deep Blue by Jacomo

    I can't stand the opening on this one. Extremely strong and synthetic. The dry down is fantastic and smells almost identical to GIT, but it takes over a half an hour or more to get there. Cool Water Frozen is a much better option if your looking for a GIT knockoff.

    13th February, 2011 (Last Edited: 11th March, 2011)

    silentrich's avatar

    United States United States

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    Corduroy by Zirh

    Corduroy is a fantastic fragrance at a rock bottom price. I had this before I bought Intense Euphoria and they smell a lot alike. Intense Euphoria is a stronger and sweeter version of Corduroy. This is a great buy and recommended for anyone that likes vanilla. If you don't care for vanilla your not going to like this a bit.

    13th February, 2011 (Last Edited: 20th March, 2011)

    Oh_Hedgehog's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Odeur 71 by Comme des Garçons

    Odeur 71 is a weird, creepy-smelling hybrid: on the one hand it has a green character with notes of lettuce, peppermint and grass; on the other, an arrangement suggestive of printed matter, electronic hardware, burning dust and the office stationary cupboard. One purpose of the greenery is to foreground the bizarre technico-industrial notes, or the 'anti' part of that inseparable 'anti-perfume' tagline.

    Some might think it's mischievous or droll to make oneself smell like an overheating photocopier. I think it's deranged. At the risk of sounding like that Marxist killjoy, Theodeur Adorno, isn't Comme des Garçons' 'anti-perfume' in fact pitifully conservative in its compliance: this is a scent that makes you smell like a piece of technology, indistinguishable from the equipment. Odeur 71 smells to me like alienation in a bottle, masquerading as savvy parody.

    Or – to plug myself back into the Matrix – Odeur 71 is a moderately refreshing scent of aluminium foil and celery.

    13th February, 2011 (Last Edited: 18th April, 2011)

    kierroo's avatar

    Scotland Scotland

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    Joop! Homme by Joop!

    Well it seems this is the 'Marmite' fragrance from base note reviews, i've never owned this a few mates of mine have, and i spray it every-time im at there house.

    yes its at the point of being sick, but this is a fragrance the ladies love and it just reeks sex, be careful on the doze you spray on

    Buy it for the female attention alone !

    Edited 20th april

    Well i finally picked this up at boots, with a gift voucher for my birthday. What can i say i wore this the day after buying to go out in the town, and got a complement from a few lady even though it had been put on 7 hours previous.

    About a month later, wore it again to a party and yet again got complements from girls, one even kissed my neck cause she loved the smell so much !

    Hands down a classic Fragrance from my fave era the 80's :D

    13th February, 2011 (Last Edited: 20th April, 2011)

    Grottola's avatar

    United States United States

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    Ô de Lancôme by Lancôme

    Ô de Lancôme is absolutely one of the most delightful citrus fragrances I've ever smelled. It smells natural and uplifting and lasts longer than most other classic citrus chypres. It's very green and "balmy", with a kind of herbal face-lotion feel (which many Lancôme fragrances have), but if you want a green citrus fragrance, there's not much out there better than Ô de Lancôme.

    My mom actually wore this one for years, and then I started wearing it when I was a senior in high school. Like all citrus fragrances, it is a bit fleeting, however the mileage is still impressive for a fragrance of its type - I get 4 hours out of Ô de Lancôme before it finally dissipates. Besides, with a giant 4.2 oz bottle like I have, I can douse myself in the stuff!

    Love it.

    13th February, 2011 (Last Edited: 12th May, 2011)

    teardrop's avatar

    England England

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    L'Instant de Guerlain by Guerlain

    l get a fleeting sharpness from the mandarin in the opening, then this quickly smooths out into a floral that l can't quite identify, but must be the lily or magnolia. There is a sweet, honeyed quality to these florals which is almost cloying, & l suspect there is some mimosa somewhere in here. Suddenly after only 20 minutes there's a sweet amber which somehow comes as a surprise to me. This is one of the fastest drydowns l've experienced, & the sillage is quite soft on my skin.
    l love florals, & l love amber. So far l "like" L'Instant. l suspect this will really bloom in warm weather, & l may just fall in love with it. lt's classy, versatile, & apparently men love it on a woman.

    Edit; l tried this again today; a hot, humid, cloudy day; & the sillage was indeed much stronger. l also noticed a strange note in the opening phase; salty, black Kalamata olives! Once l'd noticed it, it was unmistakable, & actually very pleasant indeed, as it transported me immediately to a place l love. The honeyed florals didn't really appear this time, but the amber was still as sweet. l've now used up my sample, & think l need to spend more time with this one, so a decant is in order. l have to see if those olives appear again!

    13th February, 2011 (Last Edited: 05th July, 2011)

    silentrich's avatar

    United States United States

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    Le Mâle by Jean Paul Gaultier

    It's one of the most obnoxious fragrances that I've owned and I'm still not sure why I bought it. It is strangely addictive, but at the same time it's cloying and over powering. Giving it a thumbs up because it's an original fragrance that so many other fragrances have borrowed from.

    13th February, 2011 (Last Edited: 06th January, 2013)

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Cardinal by Heeley

    Revised review
    Top: white linen, bay rose, black pepper
    Mid: labdanum, frankincense, myrrh
    Base: vetiver, ambergris, patchouli

    I paid attention and really got a good sense of the top notes. Definitely presents a white shirt, freshly-ironed aspect amid a brief flora and spicy pepper combo. Very interesting.
    The amber and incense combine, a bit rubbery but also coniferous, woody, and soapy.
    Very smooth. Dry but rich, substantial but not heavy.
    Wears very well, in fact has amazing longevity.
    A lovely scent.

    13th February, 2011 (Last Edited: 31st October, 2014)

    Darvant's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Pino Silvestre by Silvestre

    Notorious italian coniferous concoction which is a resinous/sylvester, slightly leathery, herbaceous, woodsy/minty (a bit cosmetical/soapy type in its vibe) blend with a citrusy opening. It's pleasant and bold, very aromatic and green. This one combines coniferous elements as pine, juniper, birch resins and cedar, with green aromatic ingredients as basil, thyme and clary sage. The lavender is the natural, masculine, traditional, fluidy shelter for the green coniferous notes while the dry down is mossy, ambery (ambergris), with the tobacco type of support from tonka and the cedarwood woody stableness. Longevity and sillage are very notable. This is like a walk in a forest early in a cold wet morning. Really poor longevity.

    13th February, 2011 (Last Edited: 23rd February, 2015)

    Gilgamesh2003's avatar

    United States United States

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    Azzaro pour Homme Elixir by Azzaro

    "Pour les hommes qui aiment les femmes qui n'aiment pas Azzaro pour Homme." A delightful fruity fougere that re-interprets the amazing Azzaro pour Homme. This is like one of those movies that re-imagines a TV series from the 80s - it nods charmingly to its source material, but it's obviously of the current moment. Fortunately it's also a great, well-constructed scent.

    Elixir opens with smooth, sweet fruits, and they continue to color the fragrance as it dries down into a lighter, slightly sweeter version of classic Azzaro PH. If you found the original too strong, you might find Elixir just right. Sillage and longevity are moderate.

    Is it as good as the original Azzaro pour Homme? Maybe not, but it is awfully good.

    14th February, 2011

    TropiRock's avatar

    United States United States

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    Pal Zileri Sartoriale by Pal Zileri

    Gucci Rush For Men, Act II. A fellow basenoter kindly informed me about Sartoriale and he was right: it is my kind of fragrance and very reminiscent of Rush. A nice combo of soft woods and softer floral. The list of notes is surprisingly complex:

    Top: green apple, grapefruit
    Mid: amber, sandalwood, musk, vetiver, oakmoss
    Bottom: Bulgarian rose, lily-of-the-valley, violet leaf

    My nose must be a little wacky, because I smell almost none of that shopping list! Sartoriale is a very nice, distinguished fragrance and I'll give it a thumbs up, but as pointed out by the esteemed SirSlarty, longevity is off the scale. The LOW end of the scale, that is. Also, this one stays very close to the skin and if you're a one-or-two spray person, you'll barely get a whiff.

    14th February, 2011

    Aiona's avatar

    United States United States

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    Jasmin Impératrice Eugénie by Creed

    At the risk of angering Creed fans, I must say that this perfume smells a very lot like Ciara by Revlon. It's heavy, and amber and vanilla. One only needs a very little bit, because sillage is intense, and longevity is too. If you don't like vanilla, you definitely won't like this one. It's very vanilla-sweet, and amber heavy, hence the Ciara sillage. The jasmine gives it a Hypnotic Poison-like feel up close, though. I personally like it very much, but it takes a special someone to wear it -- just as Ciara does.

    And that person unfortunately is not me.

    14th February, 2011

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