Fragrance Reviews from March 2011

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    darren1's avatar



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    Capucci pour Homme by Roberto Capucci

    not as strong as, but a dead ringer for versace l'homme. smells great, but not strong enough. smells like armani pour homme on the citrus notes, but exactly like versace. all the way. not a bad thing, especially if you like versace but find it too strong for the office.

    06 March, 2011

    Grottola's avatar

    United States United States

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    Chergui by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Chergui is a beautiful, thick and dense oriental. I smell honey, incense, some florals, tobacco, and a hefty dollop of courmarin (hay). Sort of like a *much* higher quality Givenchy Pi, except thicker, denser, and not as sickeningly sweet. Love this stuff. Good sillage and it lasts a very long time - I don't usually like sweet fragrances, but Chergui is an exception that just smells decadent and gorgeous.

    06 March, 2011 (Last Edited: 12 March, 2011)

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Acqua Santa by Linari

    This is a review based on my first impression about this fragrance, I have to test it a few more times as it is a very complex one! I just tasted it on paper curious about the name Acqua Sata (Holy Water) and got totally surprised. I didn't know it was by Maurice Roucel and Linari it's quite new to the body perfumery industry as they previously did only room fragrances-The opening is simply amazing with a blast of bergamot working in a very special way. It gives you the feeling of real Holy Water and wax, surrounded by flowers sweetness. It's like to be in a church on a wedding day. The drydown is sublime as the scent morphes into a complex mixture of green accords, spices, flowers and musk. Rich and sublime but at the same time gentle and not loud.

    06 March, 2011 (Last Edited: 04 April, 2011)

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Chergui by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    This is often listed as one of the best scents by Lutens while IMO it's really nothing special. Smokey-Tobacco, Honey (a lot), Amber, Sandalwood...averything is so perfect, like a good student's creation. You can find the recipe for this one in the "Young Perfumer Manual", page 34, paragraph "Oriental Spicy Fragrance". Just kidding, but really nothing special to my nose.

    06 March, 2011 (Last Edited: 04 April, 2011)

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Acqua di Sale by Profumum

    In italy this is a cult scent for all the snob-ish ladies without class but with a biiiiiig credit card. A scent that litterally makes me laughing so hard I cant' breathe. You can easly buy Demeter's Rain for 10 bucks and tell everybody it's acqua di sale, no one will notice. Actually they're not really similar, but no one will notice, anyway! ahahahahahah, sorry I was talking about acqua di sale and couldn't stop laughing...

    if you really like acquatic scents go for Tirrenico by I Profumi Del Forte, here follows I review I just made:

    I had a sample of Tirrenico a few monthes ago and, as I'm generally not into aquatic scents, I forgot it in a box. One day I was removing a few books from a shelf and I found the decant again so I gave it a try and I totally got suprised. Tirrenico is litterally amazing and stunning. No ozone bull***t here, but a real oceanic fragrance. IMO the only one really recalling the wet sand, marine wet woods and shells giving you the feeling of an exclusive, paradisiac beach. Longevity is super, great sillage and last but not least, lasting power is absolutely unique for an aquatic fragrance (10-12 hours). Another good point is the drydown as most of the marine scents often turn into something else that is sometimes soapy, sometimes fruity etc etc...this one stays fresh, vibratin and aquatic...It's like to have a fresh water fountain followiong you for the whole day! Amazing!

    Obviously I immediately decided I had to have a bottle...and I got it!

    06 March, 2011 (Last Edited: 04 April, 2011)

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Silver Musk by Nasomatto

    "Silver Musk? I've to taste it! The name is really promising, metal and musk wow, I guess it's one of those cold metallic but very refined perfumes I'm looking for..." Naaaaaaa, not at all. This is a clean musk with a good sillage and good lasting power, that's it. Nothing special, nothing very important, just one in the crowd.

    Two more things: First, Nasomatto packaging is amazing and so are the bottles, really really really beatiful (not enough, thou). Second "Silver Musk aims to evoke superhero magnetism"...are you guys kidding us? Ok it is funny and I really hope this was you're aim.

    06 March, 2011 (Last Edited: 04 April, 2011)

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Duro by Nasomatto

    I think Duro is actually much better than Black Afgano with its blast of woods, leather and spices. It's a very intense, loud and very masculine scent that you will surely dig if you love Montale's Aoud Musk. These two are very similar even if Duro is much more louder and synthetic. The scent is pretty linear but very well crafted and has ain incredible lasting power and sillage but I find this kind of fragrance very fascinating at first but You can get easily bored.

    06 March, 2011 (Last Edited: 04 April, 2011)

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Black Afgano by Nasomatto

    I've tried this several times as it seems to be one of the most discussed scents of the last couple of years and I can surely say it doesn't smell like hashish at all. This is simply a weird scent, made to provoke (really???) with a pretentious aim to become a trend setter, but IMO it didn't succeed in any of the above aspect. It actually stinks and very loudly. I guess this is the result of a marketing campaign based on the concept "wierd equals original - original equals personality - personality equals beeing unique"...what about taste? Sometimes the word "weird" just means weird (in all its negative senses). Never, never, never belive the hype!

    Note: I usually like weird scents, but they're so hard to find, and much harder to create.

    06 March, 2011 (Last Edited: 04 April, 2011)

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    (Untitled) by Martin Margiela

    I was expecting so much from Untitled as Martin Margiela is one of my favourite fashion brands of all time. Unfortunately this is just an ok fragrance with a no more than resonable projection and a barely acceptable lasting power. It's an unisex fragrance, even if on my skin it turns to be so gentle and delicate that I can't stand it. Tones of bitter orange and green notes, a bit of incese and that's all I got. It's quite pleasant, actually, but nothing special. Really!

    06 March, 2011 (Last Edited: 04 April, 2011)

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Aqua Universalis by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

    I'm getting tired about "non perfumes", "anti perfumes", "aquas", "dry clean", "just Showered", "fresh sheets", "just breathe" kind of things. It seems every brand needs something like this in their collection. Aqua Universalis is an ok scent, fresh and floral that can be used on body, sheets, clothes and even on your puppies....come on, stop! Great lasting power (2-3 seconds) LOL!

    I have much respect for Francis Kurdjian, and totally love most of his creations, but this one is really too much for me! Sorry!

    06 March, 2011 (Last Edited: 04 April, 2011)

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Vista Sul Mare by Linari

    Generic and ordinary. If you like fresh, innocuous fragrances, go for any cheaper mass market scent of the same famlily. Almost 200 bucks for "Vista Sull Mare"

    06 March, 2011 (Last Edited: 04 April, 2011)

    TwoWordReviews's avatar

    United States United States

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    Amber by Sonoma Scent Studio

    Alluring. Vanilla.

    This is simple, straightforward, and seductive. It's a long-lasting, vanilla-heavy amber that emphasizes the fragrance's sweeter side. Brilliant.

    06 March, 2011 (Last Edited: 14 April, 2011)

    Grottola's avatar

    United States United States

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    Sartorial by Penhaligon's

    Sartorial is a GREAT modern fougère. Fresh, clean and conserved with leather, oakmoss, a noticeable coumarin note, and tonka. It also has a lot of musk. Debonaire and well-tailored but by no means stuffy at all. A little pricey but worth it IMO - lasts all day and smells very classy.

    06 March, 2011 (Last Edited: 26 April, 2011)

    Grottola's avatar

    United States United States

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    Boss in Motion by Hugo Boss

    Candied oranges. Heh-heh, this is a fun one. I already have Joop! Jump and that fragrance satisfies my "candied orange" fix well enough, but this stuff ain't half bad. It lasts a while but can get to be cloying if you apply too much.

    06 March, 2011 (Last Edited: 07 May, 2011)

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    parfums*PARFUMS Series 1 Leaves: Calamus by Comme des Garçons

    Big thumbs up for Calamus! The first time I tasted it it was in 2000 when it was just released and totally got impressed. I got a bottle and used it daily for several monthes. After that I decided to move to other kind of perfumes and so I completely forgot about this frangrance since a couple of monthes ago when a good friend of mine came to visit me and was wearing Calamus. I didn't smell it since years but my reaction was the same I had 10 years ago: love at first sight! This is exactly my type of green scent (together with Victrix by Profumum). A great opening with dry bamboo surrounded by bitter citric notes and vivid green undertones. Very distinctive (it's not easy at all in this kind of scents) and unique but at the same time weightless and easy to wear. Honest and simple yet genuinely fascinating. A favourite!

    06 March, 2011 (Last Edited: 28 October, 2011)

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Black Tourmaline by Olivier Durbano

    This is magnific, a great scent! Here's what I mean when I say I like weird scents. Black Tourmaline has a pretty common notes list but it is so brilliantly crafted and calibrated that the effect is totally distinctive and original. Smoky, dark, deep woods (mainly oud) and leather with a tar hint somewhere and incense that makes of it a very modern composition. At the same time Black Tourmaline has definitely the potential to become a classic, something that will leave a trace. Absolutely addictive. I rated it 4 out of 5 just because I've a few reservations as it is not easily wearable. A masterpiece, anyway.

    06 March, 2011 (Last Edited: 13 December, 2011)

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Incense Extrême by Tauer

    Perfumes form people that really knows how to make them! Incense Extreme is an extremely solid composition. Modern, consistent and elegant but at the same time descreet (expecially during the drydown). One of the most minimal incense creations yet among the most versatile. If you ever thought that Avignon was one of the most realistic "churchy" incenses, then try this one. The opening is breathtaking with a blast of pungent frankincense and petit grain surrounded by a remarkable woody vibe. Dry, almost harsh (cedar), but magistrally orchestrated to result incredibly likeable. Green undertones paired off with coniferous hints add depth and charme.The drydown it's somehow "lighter", comfortable and close to the skin and it's when the Tauer's signature becomes unmistakeable. I still found Avignon to be much more original and emotional but Tauer's take on straight forward frankincense is surely a winner. Recommended.

    06 March, 2011 (Last Edited: 16 January, 2012)

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Rock Crystal by Olivier Durbano

    Among the Avignon rip-offs the Durbano is probably the most original (which is an euphemism to say that is slightly less literal). The typical church-y cedarwood/incense accord is joined by some spices and other woody notes and it's paired to the usual balmy, sort of synthetic Durbano's signature. Nice but forgettable.

    06 March, 2011 (Last Edited: 16 January, 2012)

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Olibanum by Profumum

    This is a real alternative to seminal scents like Avignon or Incense Extreme. Olibanum is great if you like smoky incense based fragrances but it's quite different form the well known antagonist scents of the same family. Together with the usual liturgic vibe Profumum introduced a sealing wax effect that make Olibanum irresistible. While the opening is still quite severe and chilling, the drydown turns dry-and-warm, meditative and comfortable. A terrific woody-green option. Highly recommended!

    06 March, 2011 (Last Edited: 16 January, 2012)

    Darvant's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Hai Karate by Leeming

    A collector friend of mine owns an old bottle and after many claims (i used to beg him with insistence) he allowed me to inhale the juice even if just from the glass. It's not enough for a complete review. All I can write is that perceived a sort of cold, metallic bit anisic strange sort of smell. Something rancid jumped on mind conjuring me an initial trait of Salvador Dali Pour Homme's top notes but in a less dark, colder and more herbal way. I read that the fragrance becomes powdery at the end of its development and i guess it treats about a woody powder with a sort of minty and rooty undertone. What i can do for the moment is to express a neutral rating.

    06 March, 2011 (Last Edited: 14 January, 2014)

    Darvant's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    He Wood by Dsquared2

    Very similar to Kenzoair (at least in many of its nuances) this is a decent woodsy fragrance which is not so able in my opinion to fully capture the woody balsamic aroma you could perceive for real riding the high mountain routes running along the side of the deep forest. This aim is better reached, although in different ways, by masterpieces like Knize Forest, Duc de Vervins, Parfum d'Habit or English Fern. This aroma is more faithful to a sort of breeze you can perceive near a lake surrounded by woods so It's not a real smell of forest, is more close to a watery, bit salty, ozonic smell may be perceived being the lake located near some firs and pines. He wood is too aqueous and ozonic type to be a real heavily woodsy fragrance. It's nice anyway, minimalistic and sharp. Vetiver and cedar are immediately recognizable since the beginning together with an airy synthetic accord and some flowers (violets). There is some airy, ozonic, synthetic, watery accord standing at the beginning together with violet leaves and something balsamic as "cedary" anise or angelica which is a sheer reminiscence about Kenzoair. The woodsy base is made by musks blended with balsamic resins and a touch of vanilla in order to sweeten the otherwise too salty smell and in order to provide a touch of smoothness to an however abrasive fragrance. Longevity and sillage are notable on my skin. A solution for those that like the airy, light fragrances without wishing to smell like a sugary fish.

    06 March, 2011 (Last Edited: 14 January, 2014)

    bogsc's avatar

    United States United States

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    Tam Dao by Diptyque

    Tam Dao is a contemplative scent for me. It makes me ponder the question, "What is the scent of something that leaves no scent." My testing experience today: Apply. Sniff. Can't smell much of anything. Maybe it's just really subtle. Reapply more. Sniff. Ok, I think I smell...nope, it's gone. Reapply with heavier hand. Sniff. Wait, now I smell...nope, it's gone. Maybe I should bathe in it? Think I need to spray this one til wet in order to experience it.

    07 March, 2011

    Weimar27's avatar

    United States United States

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    Sensuous by Estée Lauder

    Starts off very sexy with warm woods and Honey
    Delecate petals of magnolia blooms with a seductivly
    sweet scent and it's stately elegance then dries with lily with a tingere of spiciness Jasmine floats shyly giving a greenish herbalness which is suble, Then turns synthtic giving an impression of Sugar got stuck in some plastic but it's bearable and in fact
    what makes it for what it is, Amber is pronuanced
    in sensuous and gives off a sweetness which it can
    be Cloying at times I can detect Cinnamon dry and
    semi-sweet when mixed with the note of pepper conjours a delectable and sensual aroma The drydown is my favorite Sandalwood adds a inner fire to a
    icy and refined flagon, Sensuous has a Luminosity
    an innerglow that is comfident without aggression
    Sexy but not smut it gives suble hints no tacky
    bright colors or designs just simple and elegant.

    07 March, 2011

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Lacoste Challenge by Lacoste

    Sweet, synthetic. No citrus that I can detect. Nothing natural here, or interesting. A boring clone of many other scents. Banal. Wimpy. Get thee gone.

    07 March, 2011

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    Halston Z-14 by Halston

    A layering experiment gone horribly awry.

    07 March, 2011

    BlackCat's avatar

    United States United States

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    White Jasmine & Mint by Jo Malone

    From the below reviews, I guess this is a love-it-or-hate-it frag! It works very well on me. I get some aromatic mint and green in the top notes after a brief alcohol blast, then lots of slightly-creamy jasmine, drying down to a pleasant woody musk. The mint and jasmine do indeed complement each other on my skin, though the mint note is gone in about 15 minutes for those who are not fans. Longevity is decent, especially for a Jo Mallone, but sillage is light. It's my go-to when I need a lighter fragrance.

    07 March, 2011

    BlackCat's avatar

    United States United States

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    Zephir de Rose by Les Parfums de Rosine

    A very pretty rose soliflore. This rose strikes me as a dark pink one--not too girly, but not particularly deep. I got very little anise or basil (neither is a favorite note of mine), just enough to give some lift. Zephir is slightly softer and less green than SL's Sa Majesté La Rose, and it has better lasting power on me. Worth a try!

    07 March, 2011

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Emporio Armani He by Giorgio Armani

    Bright, clean, fresh. Generic allusions to spice and vetiver and wood. Completely inoffensive, a safe choice and an acceptable introduction to a nice sort of scent.

    07 March, 2011

    Mario Justiniani's avatar

    Cuba Cuba

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    Polo by Ralph Lauren

    Well, this is the kind of fragrance that will convince your GF that only gay men have any taste for scents, whereupon she will proceed to ban 80's Powerhouse Fragrances from your wardrobe--

    ( Good news: she might get you Caron PH for your birthday. Bad news: it could be Le Male instead )

    Yes, I know Polo was created in '78, not the 80's --The same year Azzaro made its debut and also heralded the Oakmoss Decade To Be.

    For the most part I love the powerhouses--even if I do get more female compliments with Creed Himalaya---but there are some that I loathe, considering them a caricature of masculinity.

    This is not one of them--but classic or not it ain't Macassar, Versace L'Homme (original) Lowe Para Hombre, or other coniferous kick ass greens.

    I like the opening. If Tuscany Etruscan is a left hook to the jaw, Polo is a Karate master's open palm-heel strike to the nose, sending your septum crashing up into the brain.

    However after a while it's bad ass leather. Or perhaps bad leather? A bit too discordant with the notes. Is it dated? Yes, after the first 15 minutes until it settles to drydown hours later.

    Why not a thumbs down? Well the notes are discordant ( for a masterpiece of harmony in leather check out Dunhill '34) but they're really quite interesting in a Republican / Oedipal sort of way.

    What the hell, you might pick up some perverted chick that's into Bandit

    07 March, 2011

    pasha's avatar

    United States United States

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    Carnal Flower by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

    Yummm...

    this is... truly something.










    07 March, 2011

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