Perfume Reviews

Latest Perfume Reviews

Total Reviews: 136149

Gucci by Gucci by Gucci

Hear, chypre's oakmoss!
From dark and sexy gourmand
Fordish Lui become!
24th June, 2017

Sikkim Girls by Gorilla Perfume

Nuclear jasmine.
A floral revolution.
Skybilly charm school.
24th June, 2017

Driftwood by Mirus

Mirus is a San Francisco based artisanal perfumery. Driftwood is classified as a woody oriental: "Driftwood evokes the smell of a dry piece of driftwood on a warm, sandy beach kissed by a cool sea breeze. "

Driftwood on my skin has two phases. The first phase is salty, vaguely ozonic, and is evocative of driftwood but more with marine olfactory stereotypes than those of a beach. There are passing similarities to Acqua di Sale, Aquilissima (Hilde Soliani), and even a bit of Sel Marin. However, Driftwood firmly stays in its own realm with the focus being on the woody aspects of the accord. One finds this accord to be quite novel and distinctive. This phase lingers on for a couple of hours before there is a slow transformation to its second phase: the salty, ozonic aspects disappear as a very restrained sweetness creeps in to complement the wood note. At this stage one discovers an uncanny similarity with several aspects of the dry down of Sycomore EdT. Sadly, around the time of this transformation, the fragrance also seems to unravel quite a bit.

Driftwood has its quirks, and is a novel composition, but eventually reveals a few shortcomings. While the first phase of the composition is quite innovative and interesting, it is not assertive or persistent enough. The second phase is not as engaging after the first. However, Driftwood unfortunately comes across as not robust enough for an extrait, and wears more like somewhere between an EdT and an EdP. A more potent concentration with a greater emphasis on its first phase of development would have been much more compelling.

24th June, 2017
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Philtre Ceylan by Atelier Cologne

Philtre Ceylan is a part of Atelier Cologne's Collection Orient which also includes Mimosa Indigo, Poivre Electrique, Tobacco Nuit and Encens Jinhae. Philtre Ceylan comes across as one of the most authentic renditions of black tea one has encountered in a while. It begins with an ethereal cardamom laced citrus that immediately transforms into an accord of black ceylon tea. This is different from other black teas including Darjeeling, Assam and other flavoured black teas such as Earl Grey. The aroma is robust, slightly smoky, slightly sweet, dewy, and closer to that of brewed tea than dried tea leaves. The cardamom and a hint of cumin support this tea accord; however, spices are kept to an absolute minimum so that the tea is the focus, and the composition never veers into masala tea territory. This phase is long lasting and linear, till eventually the tea and spice notes diminish a bit as an enveloping, semi-sweet guaiac wood joins the other elements to add a nuance, and to form the final dry down of tea and woods.

Philtre Ceylan possesses good longevity on skin of about eight hours, and is discernible throughout before fading away towards the end. However, the sillage is also soft to moderate, though perceptible, and forms a soft cloud around the wearer. Philtre Ceylan is easily the standout among Atelier Cologne's Collection Orient, and a general highlight in its catalogue. While it is somewhat pricy for what it is, it also fills a gap given the relative dearth of quality fragrances focussing on black tea. Anyone missing Coeur de Vetiver Sacre's brilliant interpretation of tea will be advised to consider Philtre Ceylan. However, personally one finds Coeur de Vetiver Sacre to be best reserved for summers, while Philtre Ceylan is an attractive proposition for an autumnal scent.

23rd June, 2017

Rose Bohème by Providence Perfume Co.

This is an interesting perfume. I'm glad to see red tea listed as a note to help me understand what I'm smelling. Prior to that, "wet hay" was the closest I had come to identifying the smell. It also has a hint of spicy cinnamon, which must also come from the red tea. Thumbs up for originality.
23rd June, 2017

Rodin by Rodin Olio Lusso

This has the effect of deeply indolic jasmine. I don't pick out the notes individually as they are so skillfully blended. A joy to wear, excellent silage. I dread paying for it though as it is very dear. Dries to a sensual skin scent.
23rd June, 2017

Coney Island by Bond No. 9

Love this stuff. It took me a little bit to appreciate just how interesting it is...

Strangely enough, at first it seemed linear to me.

I don't know how I had that impression. The way this scent changes with time is a big part of what I like about it.

The actual accord is difficult to describe. But, for me, it definitely conjures boardwalk/twilight imagery.

This is one I'll always have in the collection.

I do think the projection/longevity could be better, but I just go a bit heavy with the sprays.
23rd June, 2017

Vetiver pour Elle by Guerlain

"Soapy is sexy!"
Or so she said, leaving me
Scandalously clean.
23rd June, 2017

Criminal of Love by By Kilian

stardate 20170623:

I do not get anything other than White Phenyl smell (a common hospital disinfectant made with pine oil and emulsifier).
Perhaps I am overly sensitive to this smell.
White Phenyl to me is what Pinesol is to most of you - not a good scent association.

There is some rose but is drowned in Phenyl.
I can't recommend it.
23rd June, 2017

Statement by Etienne Aigner

Stardate 20170623:

A fresh fragrance, similar to New West in style. So perhaps Calone and spices instead of DiHydromyrcenol for freshness.
I find this much more wearable than New West, probably because it lack the BayLeaf+Rosemary etc accord.

The top projects a lot but as it hits the base (4 hours) the scent becomes skin scent, just like new west skin scent :)

On its way from generic freshness to a great base it pays homage to some of the greats of a bygone era - Cacheral PH, Catalyst (some may say Havana or Dunhill Edition). The musky-ambery base is real quality and typical vintage and I wish it came sooner and projected more.

I am not a fan of freshies (calone is still better than dihydromyrcenol) and so this gets a mild thumbs up at the current prices ($10/oz)

I would have preferred if top was less fresh and base more prominent

23rd June, 2017

Une Rose by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Aw, man . . . this should have been a TKO for me. I'm an enormous admirer of Edouard Flechier, and a complete ho for rose perfumes. Seriously, I'll wear just about anything rosey. Unfortunately, Une Rose involves this aromachemical called Karanal, which Luca Turin says smells like urine to "a small subset of women," of which I am apparently a member.

I can smell great rose materials, and an interesting structure, and an appealing dirty quality in Une Rose that normally would have me going straight to my wishlist, and trolling eBay in search of deals. But that Karanal--it's not like the urinous note in, say, Cadavre Exquis, which smells like an old-school pissoir in high summer, straight out of a Jean Genet novel; it's more like the scent of stale dog pee after you've repeatedly shampooed a rug where the little guy made his mark more than once. It mostly hovers on the edges until the drydown starts, at which point (since I think it's some sort of woody amber material) it becomes the main event.

But--as it turns out, Une Rose has been reformulated without the Karanal. I smelled a sample of the new stuff recently, and it's lovely--lovely, and unfortunately, quite ordinary. I'll happily wear my sample of the new stuff and enjoy it while it lasts, but I'm not shelling out Frederic Malle money for a nice rose. Not while so many excellent roses can be had for a quarter of the price.

I really wish I had been able to experience the original as it was meant to be smelled--the people who love it go into transports of ecstasy when they talk about Une Rose. I love truffles, and I love dirt, and I'm seriously not easily put off by animalics--I routinely wear Salome and La Nuit without a second thought--but the old Une Rose just made me feel like I needed to clean the house or something. And the new one . . . well, it's beautiful, but it's also, unfortunately, quite ordinary. It's worth a sample, just to enjoy the excellent quality materials, but the new composition doesn't live up to its promise, its heritage, or its reputation.
23rd June, 2017

Number Six by Caswell-Massey

One land or two sea
As six turned out to be one
I can smell like me.
23rd June, 2017

XJ 1861 Naxos by Xerjoff

This is an especially Xerjoff-smelling fragrance from Xerjoff: a wall of experimental-smelling billowing chemicals. The Xerjoff signature DNA is pushed beyond reasonable limits in this screamer.
23rd June, 2017
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Black by Bulgari

What more can be said on this one?

I ordered it blind ages ago having read countless reviews. It wasn't what I was expecting.

I don't get the Lapsang references - yes, it's smoky, but Lapsang tea has a sort of meaty smokiness, and this is more of a citric, vanilla, amber smokiness. I get something of the same zingy citrus vetiver bitter sweet top I get from Fat Electrician although vetiver is not listed as a note in Black. Again, I wish I actually knew how to identify notes - I might reward myself with a course when this odyssey is over!

I was a Lapsang drinker in my day and I might have some later to actually run some data against my opinions! I'm not a huge fan of tea scents as I don't like the tang of tannin they seem to engender in me. This has none of that.

I love it, especially as the first thing I noticed on smelling was its resemblance to the Je Reviens Memories of Times Past that haunt my dreams. It's got that same oddly sharp chemical bite that I love - which seems to be floral, vetiver, spice, and vanilla all at once. I think the 'rubbery' aspect is what I consider the shared Je Reviens DNA. The sharpness keeps the whole confection light and not too sweet.

It is lovely in autumn and winter, but I'm running out of summery stuff, and it is perfect today - the weather has cooled down a bit and it's cloudy. It has a tiny hint of plasters or bandages - the old very sticky type that came on a roll and smelled 'clinical'. It lasts as a lovely skin scent and is linear enough to stand repeated sprayings throughout the day.

It also makes me long for skyscrapers and modernity - it has an urban feeling about it - perfect for walking city streets and soaking up the energy.
22nd June, 2017

17/17 Damarose by Xerjoff

This doesn't smell too different from a mass marketed fragrance sold in the local mall, a Stella McCartney fragrance, for example, and although the ingredients don't smell precious or unique, this Xerjoff version of a fruity floral does smell well put together. I like the perfumer's work on this, Jacques Flori.

It smells like roses to me for a few minutes, and then it smells more like a rounded fruity floral, easy to where and enjoy, straight forward and unpretentious smelling.
22nd June, 2017

Gris Montaigne by Christian Dior

Stardate 20170622:

A masculine Rose Patchouli floral that does not smell like traditional Rose Patchouli.
There is a grape soda accord too which perhaps adds that je ne sais quoi.
Lasts long and is very safe.
22nd June, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Lilac Love by Amouage

A floral heliotrope with jasmine and good parts of gardenia and other white florals; later on a somewhat flat iris arises too. The drydown is a vanilla chocolate dyad, not dissimilar to molten ice cream but, alas, quite generic, as is the soft patchouli towards the end.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and three hours of longevity on my skin.

A spring scent that is not bad, but distinctly unexciting. 2.5/5.
22nd June, 2017

L'Acquarossa by Fendi

An interesting spicy, fruity floral. Citrusy, slightly peppery, a little woody, nice peony, and a touch of musk, at the end. A good summery scent, for evenings.

Yet another short-lived Fendi fragrance; for it has been discontinued and therefore discounted, in many places. Gloriously red bottle.
22nd June, 2017

Exite Force by Oriflame

The first blast of this gives you pine needles, sandalwood, cascalone, amber, and geranium. A touch of melon if you inhale gently. These notes all dissipate quickly except, what you are left with, is pine. Lots of woody pine. Wait awhile longer and the sandalwood returns -- with pine, still being front and center. If you like pine, you'll love this. Not one of Oriflame's greatest creations, in my opinion.

22nd June, 2017

Dior Homme Sport (2012) by Christian Dior

Ginger winds blow through
Citrus powder-covered trees
In Dior's snow-cube.
22nd June, 2017

Animale by Animale Parfums

I didn't wear this one when it was first released, so I can't speak to how the current version may be different from the original one. (I'm assuming that it must have been reformulated over time for reasons of cost or ingredient restrictions, because it's heavy on mossy and woody notes.)

That said, whatever changes may have been made, they've done a great job of keeping it true to the spirit of 1987! I can't smell Animale outside of the heavy context I bring to it as someone who would have been wearing other chypres like J'ai Ose, Diva, Mary McFadden, and Jean Marc Sinan at the time of its launch. So it gives me a powerful nostalgic feeling just in being a chypre from the 80s. Yes, each of those is/was unique, yet the degree of difference between them now strikes me as being about as big as the one between Flowerbomb and La Vie Est Belle today.

The current Diva doesn't smell the same to me as it used to - the components smell cheaper and the rose isn't as glorious as it was. Animale is not that far removed from today's Diva. The emphasis is different, though - Diva is so much about the animalic honeyed rose, while Animale seems like it's going to be complicated when you first spray it, but is basically an animalic chypre accord in the end.

Conventional wisdom is usually to wear a powerhouse chypre like this only in cooler weather. But I find that they can be bitter and off-putting if they don't get a chance to open up and bloom on warm skin. The thing I love about chypres is actually what they do with your chemistry if they suit you. My issue with so many modern American (in particular) fem scents is that they have no intersection with how women actually smell, and seem to be an exercise in masking. I don't need to take on any societal shame, thanks. Plus, if I want to smell like something you plug into a wall, I'll put one of those things in my pocket and radiate "clean linen" or whatever all day. So I actually wear Animale in hot weather - I decant it so I can dab just a little bit - because "Animale" is more the truth of the situation than "Fantasy" when it's 115 out, and I'll own it.

Especially amazing frag when you consider that it's available for around $9.99 at discounters if you hit them on the right day.
22nd June, 2017

Amber Tapestry by Aftelier

Given its name I was half-expecting this to be a decadent amber oriental but no, Amber Tapestry had none of the heft commonly associated with the genre. It has none of the syrupy/oozy texture, opting instead for an airier, more resinous take. Jasmine adds a floral dimension and pairs well with the central golden amber accord. As far as sweetness go, this rates a 3 or at most a 4 on a 10-point scale. Evolution is pretty rapid for an oriental, the scent dissipating to its base notes within 2 hours. I'm sure there are morsels in there that I have missed but in projection, there is little to sink my teeth into.

Overall, a nice enough oriental but a little too polite for my liking. Amber Jasmine from Abdessalam Attar could easily tug at her ponytails and steal her lunchbox.
22nd June, 2017

17/17 Richwood by Xerjoff

This smells like a sandalwood and vanilla fragrance somewhat in the style of Chanel Egoiste, especially after the Xerjoff signature notes burn off after about an hour. I like the wood used in this. It has a nice texture to my nose, slightly powdery in moments.
21st June, 2017

Moustache by Rochas

Vintage 1980's EDC.
Beautiful opening burst of Citrus with pointed Basil rather than that of Rosemary (Eau Sauvage)
Quickly moves to the extraordinary Florals which have been honeyed urinous. It winds back to the Liquorice of Basil.
The buttery Oakmoss volumes the whole mix and creates an Eau Sauvage heart heavier, dirtier and bordering powder.
A little darker than the ES and
YSL reintroduced this dirtiness in the 70's with Pour Homme with it's Thyme, Vetiver with a touch of honey piss surrounded by Citrus.
Wonderful to taste the "Original"
Dirty Citrus.

21st June, 2017

Eau de Cartier : Vétiver Bleu by Cartier

Stardate 20170621:

A decent minty ,citrusy dry vetiver. Shares L'Envol DNA.
Nothing ground breaking but a nice fresh vetiver for a good price.

21st June, 2017

Habanita L'Esprit by Molinard

I have always been in love with Habanita. This version is just as lovely. I cannot say it is truly a "lighter" version. It isn't even just a "spirit" of Habanita. It is just a tad less rich. It still has that remarkable, one of a kind quality. The beginning phase is surely all musk, labdanum, benzoin, nutmeg, and patchouli. After settling, the heliotrope and mimosa give their lady-like qualities. This version does not disappoint.
21st June, 2017

Indigo by Nest

The tea note stands out immediately. Then the bergamot, cardamom, and wood notes come in to play. For me, the fig is barely there. It is a somewhat spicy, dainty wood scent that could easily be worn in summer months. Not a terrible perfume; just not overwhelmingly different or special in any way.


Okay. Here is some fig. It takes awhile to show itself to me...
21st June, 2017

Lilac by Demeter Fragrance Library

Excellent representation of lilac.

This soliflore takes me back to my childhood. We had two huge lilac bushes that grew side by side, melding into one another. One side was white; the other lilac colored. There was a large enough gap below them, and in between these bushes to create a "cave". As a little girl I would spend what seemed like hours nestled in, below these bushes. The odor kept me there spellbound, until the sound of mother's voice calling, brought me back to reality. I would keep crawling under these sweet, living branches until the blooms shriveled away.

This scent takes me back to simpler, happier times.
21st June, 2017

Orchid Bloom by Unknown

A soft, musky floral skin scent. Subdued, dainty, has a muted sweetness. Has a slight powdery, child-like quality. It reminds me of scented drawer lining paper.
21st June, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Acqua di Bergamotto by Ermenegildo Zegna

The opening blast displays an equal contribution of the lovely bergamot and a very nice vetiver. The latter is fresh and with minimally woodsy undertones, and lacks any significant earthiness.

Soon a herbal rosemary component arises, and merges with the opening notes to a delightful, fresh and invigorating mix. A bright neroli with minimal sweetness is added, with whiffs of hesperidic touches fleetingly present.

I get moderate sillage, good projection, and four hours of longevity on my skin.

Comparing this cheerful summer scent to the other summery bergamot-based creation of this house, i.e. Italian Bergamot, the latter has more lemony characteristics on me. Whilst Acqua di Bergamotto features rosemary instead of more traditional ingredients like clary sage, it is more in the line of the traditional Eau de Cologne, and in the tradition of 4711 and Farina's Kölnisch Wasser. The juxtaposition of a more traditional with a more citrus-influenced Cologne is done by other houses; Penhaligon's Extract of Limes vs. its Eau de Cologne comes to mind.

A straightforward Cologne then this one is, crafted well, and a great delight. The performance is quite respectable for a scent of its genre. 3.75/5.
21st June, 2017