Fragrance Reviews from May 2011

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    EugeniaLOL's avatar

    United States United States

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    Dandelion by Demeter Fragrance Library

    Does not smell like a real dandelion at any point, though it vaguely reminds me of one in the first few seconds after application.Real dandelions are not only floral but also bitter, which this definitely is not. It does evolve slightly over time; after an hour or so, it reminds me a little of Bellodgia's drydown. At all times it's light and sweet and a little bit creamy, and cheerful. I find it pleasant and can't imagine anyone finding it offensive. Nice for late spring when there are so many real flowers in real life to smell that you wouldn't want anything to compete and fall short and smell hopelessly fake in comparison, but still want something springy on your wrist. I think it would make a good gift scent for a young girl . . . so long as she doesn't want to smell like actual dandelions.

    13 May, 2011

    Oh_Hedgehog's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Incense Extrême by Tauer

    If Andy Tauer's signature notes (at least in his early perfumes) are coriander and amber, his style can be said to orbit the quality of dryness, of 'dessert air'. Incense Extrême is the starkest and most arid of Andy Tauer's perfumes and is an important contribution to a seam first tapped by Guerlain's now nearing-extinction Djedi.

    The scent opens with lashings, and lashes, of frankincense, and a substantial cedar accompaniment. There is a faint spiciness that smells like coriander seeds in a pan on the gas ring, having moved through 'fragrant' to 'smouldering' and now approaching 'charred'. I have trouble detecting the orris mentioned in Tauer's pyramid, but do pick up an increasingly prominent, though nonetheless subdued, ambery sweetness.

    For purposes of comparison, I'd skip the Incense Series from CdG, which are overall thinner and less convincing than Tauer's scent, and instead look to the (admittedly much quieter) Armani Privé Bois d'Encens, or go back to the beginning, with Diptyque's L’Eau Trois. In structure, I'd suggest a sideways glance at Oud 27 from Le Labo: both Incense Extrême and Oud 27 have pungent beginnings and both then
    compose themselves into far more nuzzling, cedar-based drydowns within an hour or two.

    For the meddlers out there, Incense Extrême begs to be layered intelligently; I'd go with a zesty cologne with lots of natural oils and not too many pretensions.

    13 May, 2011

    Buzzlepuff's avatar

    United States United States

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    Underworld by Soivohle (Liz Zorn)

    UNDERWORLD has a gothic name and the fragrance doesn't betray the tone of its name. This is a dark but complicated vetiver fragrance. As vetiver fragrances go it contains another layer by the addition of florals and gourmand spice notes and this density of smells will probably not appeal to everyone. The fragrance is sweetened and made lively by ginger lilly, jasmine and vanilla. The spice variety along with coffee and cocoa adds a depth of flavor without really venturing too far into gourmand territory but takes it more into darkness of the cocoa and coffee. The oud tincture and rose leather contribute to the depth and darkness of the vetiver base. This fragrance is available only in absolute form so a couple dots of this oil strategically placed works nicely to put you into a very pleasantly green and darkly alive Underworld. This fragrance is a hidden gem for vetiver lovers.

    Notes include: a variety of vetivers, cinnamon, ginger lilly, clove, jasmine, coffee, cocoa, rose leather, balsam, vanilla and oud tincture.

    13 May, 2011

    numcks's avatar

    United States United States

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    Lilac Vegetal by Pinaud

    As can be seen from the other reviews, Lilac Vegetal is an all or nothing fragrance, eliciting either love and appreciation or retched revulsion. My suspicion is that the scent reacts very differently with different body chemistry and/or is perceived quite differently by different people. Also, the "in the bottle" scent and initial opening on the skin is quite bizarre and somewhat reminiscent of fermentation or a (dirty) litter box. No one should draw conclusions about the potential for this scent until at least 30 min after application. For me at least, the ultimate reward of the fresh, authentic lilac/powder dry down is worth the wait. This scent to me is both classic in recalling barber shops of old, but also not dated or out of character with more modern tastes and expectations.

    13 May, 2011

    HDD8's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Polo Double Black by Ralph Lauren

    Oh yes... I like this one. The opening of fresh, sweet mango with pepper is quite unique and the combination really works well. The middle notes - to me - are not over prominent, but they too work oh so well. The rich, woody base adds an overall depth and quality to Double Black.
    I agree with previous comments that longevity could be better, but projection is just right. I've received compliments when I've worn this one, and wouldn't hesitate to recommend it. In my opinion, this could be worn year round, night or day.

    13 May, 2011

    redrose's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Ta'If by Ormonde Jayne

    There are not that many Oriental rose fragrances out there - at least, not many bright, fresh Oriental rose scents. While there are quite a few dark rose perfumes with Oriental accents, many of them are, for me, just not that rose-y. I like to get the true rose scent of a freshly picked flower, and Ta'if achieves that. Close your eyes and you could be strolling through a field of flowers somewhere in the East, with appetizing drifts of saffron, dates and other sweetmeats wafting in on the warm air. And yes, there's a certain green tinge to this scent which stops it from cloying and keeps it smellling fresh even after 4 hours. You can probably guess that I love this scent! Athough OJ recommend it for wearing at night, I like it just as much on a gentle spring day, when it seems to hint at the warmth of the summer to come. And I'll probably wear it in the summer, too. Linda Pilkington has said she'll never reformulate her scents, for which I'm truly grateful. Definitely FB worthy! If you L'Heure Bleue, give Ta'if a try - it's not that they're all that alike, but both create that beautiful, soft flori-ental atmosphere that surrounds you with comfort and harmony.

    13 May, 2011

    redrose's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Red Roses by Jo Malone

    Looking for new rose scents last year, I asked BN'ers for suggestions of rose perfumes with good longevity. Having happily sniffed my way through a zillion samples, this one comes out tops for true-to-life fresh rose - and yes, it does last several hours on me, which is a real achievement as I have the sort of dry skin that eats up scents. Red Roses reminds me of a rose garden at dawn, with dew on the petals, but the sun just beginning to warm them slightly. On me it's not entirely linear, as after about three hours I get the addition of a warm, honeyed note, probably the beeswax. Very pleasant in itself, this accent is not gourmand, but more the fragrance of a bowl of pot pourri with dried rose petals that have been freshly turned. This is a scent I like all year round, though in the depth of winter it needs something extra, perhaps a dash of jasmine or peach. Mostly, though, it's just perfect on its own. If you love roses, try this!

    13 May, 2011

    SirScent's avatar

    United States United States

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    Andy Warhol for Men by Andy Warhol

    I think this one's been overlooked too often.

    Andy Warhol is a great fragrance in a great looking bottle.
    Green, Clean and Fruity.

    It is a feel good fragrance that I find difficulty in comparing to others out there.
    It is unique to it's own and very refreshing.

    I like it.

    13 May, 2011

    EugeniaLOL's avatar

    United States United States

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    Paperback by Demeter Fragrance Library

    I am a lifelong book-huffer (and reader, but maybe that's beside the point). I grew up in libraries. My dad was a university librarian. I spent as much time in the public library as I could, and much to my father's confusion, I love buying books, too. My first job was in a library. Now I work in publishing. I have probably spent something like 95% of my life within sniffing distance of bookshelves. I love the many smells of books.

    Demeter Paperback doesn't even vaguely remind me of books. Not old books, not new books, at all. It's not unpleasant, but it doesn't smell of paper and dust, or of the places where books live, or of any of the many kinds of bindery glue, or even of old leather (though of course paperbacks don't smell of leather either). It doesn't smell of stale cigarette smoke and cat pee like certain used bookstores. It doesn't smell of industrial floor polish and stamp pad ink like a college library, or of kids' winter coats and old carpet and homeless job-seekers like a public library.

    It does smell a little sweet, and quite a lot like Demeter's Dirt, which I think I prefer. I agree with themeglet that it's like old pipe tobacco, though maybe not one of the sugary cherry blends.

    13 May, 2011

    Grottola's avatar

    United States United States

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    Infusion d'Homme by Prada

    Infusion d'Homme: clean, starchy, white hotel soap. It's pleasant, but not my cup of tea. Definitely powdery, but in a soap sense. If I wanted a "clean" fragrance, I'd rather wear Gendarme EdP or Mugler Cologne.

    Still, Infusion d'Homme isn't bad. Definitely unisex and the longevity is good (6 - 7 hours).

    13 May, 2011

    Grottola's avatar

    United States United States

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    cK one Summer 2007 by Calvin Klein

    Whee! cK One Summer 2007 is a fun, tart and fruity citrus fragrance. Just straight up citrus, fruity notes, a wee bit of calone (not too much), and a little hint of cinnamon/bay leaf. Nothing too special or surprising here, just a fun, happy scent that lasts a decent amount of time - 5 to 6 hours on me. If you can find it, by all means splash it on and have some fun!

    I find cK One Summer 2007 to be strictly unisex.

    13 May, 2011

    Mar Azul's avatar

    Bulgaria Bulgaria

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    Catalyst for Men by Halston

    Pure clove extract, a bit sweetened with cinnamon. A bit sharp and a bit synthetic but clove has never smelled natural to me anyway.
    Its structure is really simple, like this is some kind of basic chemical ingredient used in a lab: a catalyst which accidentally also smells good, masculine, provocative.
    Has this oriental feel without being an ambery fragrance.Warm but not cozy, it tingles the senses, keeps your attention, like a real catalyst should.

    13 May, 2011

    Grottola's avatar

    United States United States

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    cK one Summer 2008 by Calvin Klein

    EXTREMELY refreshing cucumber-melon aquatic. Has a cool minty note and is great for those hot and muggy summer days.

    Lasts a decent time on my skin; 5-6 hours.

    13 May, 2011

    Buzzlepuff's avatar

    United States United States

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    Vanillaville by Soivohle (Liz Zorn)

    Have you ever put your nose into a pouch of chewing tobacco? They add vanilla and other flavorings to make the tobacco palatable while in the mouth. I despise the habit and have avoided it, but when I was a younster my grandpa Earl never was too far away from his chewing tobacco - this scent smells like that sweet tobacco chaw I remember from my summers out on his farm.

    Vanillaville is tobacco and leather soaked in a rich vanilla brew flavored with coffee, cinnamon, almonds and fennel. The fragrance opens with warm rich tobacco quickly followed by salty tar leather with hints of licorice in the background. There is coffee in there too, but it gets blended away with all the other strong flavors. While all these comfort notes are brewing a warm radiant glow of vanilla fills the surrounding space. When smelling the skin up close you discover rich tobacco and leather notes which take over the vanilla.

    Liz Zorn lists the notes of her "demi-absolute" - Vanillaville, as: vanilla, pipe tobacco, sweet fennel, pink pepper, coffee, cinnamon, birch tar, sandalwood, amyris, floral accord, benzoin and almonds. Blending through all these notes is one of the finest vanilla fragrances I've tried and is very similar to TF Tobacco Vanille or Guerlain Spiriteuse Double Vanille for warm vanilla comfort fragrance. Is it a vanilla scent or is it tobacco? Somtetimes it smells more of leather after all. It is a nice fragrance and i recommend it if you like vanilla and tobacco.

    13 May, 2011 (Last Edited: 15 May, 2011)

    numcks's avatar

    United States United States

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    Manifesto by Isabella Rossellini

    My wife really enjoys this one, and I really like it on her. Granted, its not overly feminine and I probably would feel comfortable wearing it myself, but it projects a very warm and comforting vibe to me.

    13 May, 2011 (Last Edited: 07 June, 2011)

    calnadur's avatar

    Switzerland Switzerland

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    Hermessence Iris Ukiyoé by Hermès

    Simple, pure iris, straight up into your nose. 100% uncontaminated floral. Nothing complex or sophisticated.

    Its inclusion in this exclusive Hermes-boutique-only line up could be questioned, especially since that means a $250 price tag, but given how difficult it is to find a good iris scent, this may be worth it. Not bad. At all.

    13 May, 2011 (Last Edited: 11th June, 2011)

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    Starwalker by Montblanc

    Opens beautifuly then it just disappears. Big disappointment. Lasting power is like 1 hour. Sillage and projection are average. It's inoffensive. Thumbs down.

    13 May, 2011 (Last Edited: 04 January, 2013)

    Darvant's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Terre d'Hermès by Hermès

    The first blast of arrogant citrus, pepper, further prickly spices, bitter grapefruit and rooty vetiver transmits at me the sensation to be inhaling such an aroma exhaling straight from a jar full of oregano and red marijuana. This aromachemical-like introducing fist is for a couple of minutes somewhat harshly earthy and rooty. Few time later anyway the aroma keeps becoming softer and more aqueous as well as the grapefruit "courageously advances" while woods, the musk and benzoin keep settling down. The scent so becomes milder and the bitterness keeps fading in order to open the door to a woodsy, aromatic, masculine smell of earth. In this phase i perceive neroli, elegant geranium, musk, an hint of tobacco and vetiver in the way the fragrance exudes a woodier, more orangy/floral and milder fluidy smell. It's a bit similar to Encre Noir that i prefer being the latter a cleaner and darker kind of coniferous scent less boise, less dusty and sour and with a sort of metallic and industrial feel lacking in here. Definitely a virile vetiver prominent perfume for us. This scent is modern and charismatic but at the same time is like an exotic one, a classic in execution sort of olfactory reminiscence about bold "once upon a time" men used to go beyond the boundaries and to succeed in any sort of enterprise.

    13 May, 2011 (Last Edited: 07 June, 2014)

    Darvant's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Ange ou Démon by Givenchy

    I feel pure adoration for this synthetic fragrance that reminds me (in reminiscence of "refrigerated post-sovietic" spent vacations) the balsamic aroma of a beautiful blond russian girl that used to spray day by day Ange ou Demon in order to face with confidence the frosty San Petersburg's morning. Each time i smell this fragrance I remind that blond creature (ciao my lovely Inga) and perceive the sparkling aroma of the cold russian morning with its golden domes. This fragrance fits wonderfully with the frost outside and is electric and unbelievably sophisticated and glamour in the chill. This concoction is also perfect for clubbing in the cold winter nights and for roaming around glamour venues in the city. Its icy-mentholated and at once powdery-warm essence is the epitome of an endless dualism which hallmarks the whiffs. The extreme sophistication is provided by the exotic floral heart enriched by ylang-ylang, lily and a tropical orchid. The icy-mentholated and aromatic synthetic effect, that joining itself with the floral heart is responsible of the Ange ou Demon's modernism, is determined by the absolute of oakmoss aroma blended with white, airy, bit acid cumin, fizzy citrus, cool/aromatic spices, in my opinion aldehydes and saffron. The latter is a basic element with its spicy "molecular" prickliness. Passing time the aromatic spiciness is embraced by creamy and powdery elements as vanilla and creamy rosewood that determine that typical milky-soapy effect which is a perfect shelter for the mild-bitter tonka insertion. The latter, side by side with saffron, is probably responsible of the barely perceivable bitter/sweet tobacco aromatic undertone. The synthetic essence of this fragrance doesn't compromise its quality. Love.

    13 May, 2011 (Last Edited: 16 June, 2014)

    Darvant's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Xeryus Rouge by Givenchy

    A sticky and intoxicating pimiento bomb. Although different in many ingredients, this carnal woody oriental is a One Million's (and partially Shiseido Basala's) old parent because of its powdery bitter-sweet-sticky-slightly salty kind of dissonant after smell exhaling from its sort of woodsy dry down. Where the Paco Rabanne's one is dusty-white, this is dusty-red, an aromatic blend of peppery-salty pimiento, bitter cedar, flowers, spices and musky amber (styrax?). Xeryus Rouge is exaggeratedly sweet and aromatic but is overly (and too much longly) dissonant because smells also salty-aromatic and bitter. It's somewhat rubbery and pungent in its after smell that is a dense, viscous, almost gummy dust. Settled finally the dry down the salt, the rubber and pepper almost subside the yet strong sugar in the general dense powdery atmosphere and this is too much for my nose. It's stronger than me but each time I smell this perfume i feel a sense of disgust and it happens rarely to me while inhaling fragrances around. The beginning is green and floral (geranium, kumquat, cedar leaf) but immediately starts rising a sort of resinous peppery pimiento that, linked with a sort of rubbery cactus flesh and prickly terragon, produces a changing sweet-salty cream that is too pungent under my nose. The cedar, further key element, and sandalwood impress a bit of woodsy stable consistency while a sort of creamy-ambery musk, linked with resinous cactus flesh, enhances a sort of creamy/resinous slightly dusty woodsy final feel. The aroma throughout plays the game of contrasts and the outcome is too much, too much sweet but with salty nuances, too dusty but yet resinous, too oriental but yet bitter boise. Longevity and sillage are great. 

    13 May, 2011 (Last Edited: 18 June, 2014)

    Fiveoaks_Bouquet's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Beige by Chanel

    Tomorrow I will be buying my sixth bottle of Beige since March of 2010, when I first started wearing it. Guess you could say I like it--read love it! I get all of the notes reported to be in there, but not always and not all on the same day. Different notes come up when they feel like it. Yesterday the gardenia was standing out, sometimes I smell the frangipani and then it can disappear for a couple of weeks before I smell it again. The aldehyde, heliotrope, vanilla and amber weave in and out, I love it when a blast of freesia appears--and so on, with the other notes as they come and go. Regarding the freesia, this is the only perfume containing a freesia note that to me actually does smell peppery like freesia.

    I don't think Beige is perfect; sometimes it can smell a little plasticky in the drydown. To me it smells like an old-fashioned perfume from about 1911, composed with modern-day aromachemicals, thus the obvious synthetic notes. But I can overlook it when that happens because it is more than overbalanced by all the joyful bursts of aroma I get throughout the day and from one day--week--month--year to another.

    14 May, 2011

    Orgoglio italianO's avatar

    United States United States

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    parfums*PARFUMS Series 3 Incense: Zagorsk by Comme des Garçons

    Alfarom summed it up. I love all of the CdG Incense Series scents :-)
    This one is not to long-lasting with a couple sprays,as are the others from this CdG series. But if you put a lot on it will last...about 5-6 sprays to my neck kept it strong for about 6-8 hours. Silage is good. Avignon & Kyoto still have the best longevity with 2-3 sprays. But all of them are very well put together fragrances. I love this series and cant be without these in my wardrobe.

    14 May, 2011

    Orgoglio italianO's avatar

    United States United States

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    Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta by Acqua di Parma

    This is a great frag. I love the the white musk in it very classy stuff. AdP Assoluta,Intensa & Floris/Cefiro are my favorite Spring/Summer frags so far,cant be without these. Assoluta lasts pretty good on me about 2-3 sprays on the neck is great,silage is good also.

    14 May, 2011

    Orgoglio italianO's avatar

    United States United States

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    Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa by Acqua di Parma

    Fresh,citrusy & herbal with a delicate touch of woods & musk. A staple in my wardrobe great summer fragrance pretty long-lasting for a fragrance of this type and silage is great. Well put together. Bought this immediately after sampling it...

    14 May, 2011

    Orgoglio italianO's avatar

    United States United States

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    Myrrhe Ardente by Annick Goutal

    A+++

    A favorite...

    I love this! Kind of a smokey sweet Myrrhe thing goin' on.

    14 May, 2011

    silversurfer's avatar

    United States United States

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    Kelly Calèche by Hermès

    Should be a beautiful scent on a woman; clean, fresh, lilly floral. I don't really get the leather, though. What I do sense, is a realy nice tea....

    14 May, 2011

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    Hypnotic Poison by Christian Dior

    WOW! Yes, this at first smells exactly like root beer, coca cola and play-do. But after about 15 minutes, the drydown is delicious! It lasts all day, too. My own opinion is that this ends up smelling exactly like "Warm Vanilla Sugar" by Bath and Body Works. Very sexy, but never in a trashy or pushy way. LOVE IT!

    14 May, 2011

    jcastano's avatar

    United States United States

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    Givenchy pour Homme by Givenchy

    A nice scent, but lacks that edgy appeal. The idea was to create a "gentleman's" scent but they were not specific on whether they were regarding a younger or an older gentleman. Either way, it is a mass market appeal fragrance perfect for any teen to a guy in his late 20's. The top notes to this are fantastic and last quite some time. Imagine a fresh citrus floral. YES!!! Even the transition to the heart is great with the fruits, exotic spices, and florals creating something interesting, something with an old world feel blended with a modern take. The base is a big disappointment though. This had so much potential! The top and the heart had a great thing working but this just turns into another ambery, cedar based floral at the base. The funny thing is that amber is not even in the note breakdown but it is defintely there, or at least my nose picks up on it. If you like the amber and cedar in allure homme sport, then I highly recommend this one but if you want this scent with that edge I mentioned, I would recommend trying Hearts & Daggers from Ed Hardy, at least that one stays spicy throughout the scent life and keeps me entertained everytime I wear it. Oh, and True Religion Drifter and Givenchy Pour Homme have the exact same drydown.... the exact same, I thought I would add that. Overall, this is a perfect, safe scent that is highly inoffensive and will get positive attention. Sillage is good for 1-2 hours then it becomes a skin scent, and the scent life is around 4-6 hours. Since I do enjoy it, I give it a thumbs up but a "thumbs up" slightly into the neutral. My final rating B-

    14 May, 2011

    colormechris's avatar

    United States United States

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    Paradox for Men Blue by Jacomo

    I've tried this a couple of times now and it just doesn't do it for me. I have this problem with a lot of Jacomo fragrances, even the semi-classic Jacomo de Jacomo in the black bottle. In fact, this one is kind of a light, warm weather version of J de J. Intellectually, this one is interesting...I sense it's trying to do a bit more than your usual fragrance du jour...but I have no idea what that is.
    This house produces stuff that's always interesting, but never anything that grabs you and makes you want to wear it all the time. At least that's my experience. For a well known house, they really don't have much in the way of "all time classic".

    14 May, 2011

    colormechris's avatar

    United States United States

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    Bal à Versailles by Jean Desprez

    I, like Lilybelle, have the little white bottle of Bal A V. and I couldn't love it more. I found it at the Elizabeth Arden warehouse sale(!). Who knows how it got there; and the price was certainly right. It was an offer I couldn't refuse. And of course, the scent itself seduced me, so to speak, at first whiff. I wasn't aware of the scents rather prestigious history at the time. I just thought it smelled great. Instantly taken by it, and I'd been smelling stuff all afternoon. Bal A Versaille just cut through all the others. It has all these decadent, libertine associations and I'm not sure if that's warranted or simply the image it's meant to project...
    In any event, when I wear it (and I'm a guy, but I think it's completely unisex) I make sure to spray a lot on my wrist so I can keep smelling it all day. It's like a cake you can't stop taking little slices of! So...let them eat cake! ;)

    14 May, 2011

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