Fragrance Reviews from May 2011

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    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Vetyver / Vétiver by Givenchy

    Classic, simple, realiable, solid, endless, classy, mandatory! Together with Sycomore and Vetiver Extraordinaire one of the best ever. "Pur Excellance". Finally reissued!



    No desctription needed!

    19 May, 2011

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Spanish Leather by Geo F Trumper

    A classic leather composition. Well executed, honest and...very traditional. It opens with a consistent amount of patchouli and leather, joined by a slight flowery (rose) note. I do find something of the head shop during this phase and I'm not so excited. In the drydown everything turns comfortably soapy and old-fashioned. Maybe a bit aged. Overall this is a solid composition, but I personally prefer my leather fragrances to be less civilized. Recommended, anyway!

    19 May, 2011

    cello's avatar

    United States United States

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    Immortelle by L'Atelier Bohème

    L'Atelier Boheme Immortelle comes in a SLesque rectangular bottle with a big wax stamp on the front that has a Roman "I". The old fashion letter writer in me could not resist. How beautiful and relevant - but alas, a lost art. Raise your hand if you have hand written a letter in the last year. See, not many. (I can't actually see, but my guess is nobody and I am being generous in saying not many).

    Notes for Immortelle are: tangerine, bergamot, white flower, pomegranate, amber and immortelle.
    I totally miss the opening citrus in this one. For me, it goes straight to the heart, which is a soft white floral drowned out by the faintest, most dilute immortelle note. It somehow takes a big boomer note and makes it summerweight, airy and light. By the end, a soft and faint amber joins as the white flower recedes even further (never really standing out at all).

    Immortelle at it's most airy and light. Possibly a beginners immortelle, or one for folks that grow too weary of the heavy syrup that the note can enlist. There is not much sweetness to me, and certainly not much fruit - I would say none, but the notes betray that opinion. For me, it is just soft essences of immortelle.

    19 May, 2011

    Primrose's avatar

    United States United States

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    24, Faubourg by Hermès

    An early love affair with orange blossom! 24, Faubourg is my elegant reach-for scent up there with Boucheron EDP.

    I enjoy both the 24, Faubourg EDT and the EDP. I have not tried the perfume.

    The warm orange blossom and jasmine, mingled with the ambery/vanilla drydown is always classy. It has presence and sillage, and people will notice.

    This is not likely to be a scent worn by many. It is unique and distinctive.

    19 May, 2011

    MissMagic's avatar

    Sweden Sweden

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    Light My Heart by Morgan de Toi

    I've been a naughty girl today! Tricked my man into sampling my MORGAN DE TOI "Light My Heart", telling him it is a male-scent (he wants something fresh for summer instead of the heavy Montale-ouds he wears for the colder season). And he likes it! A LOT even!

    Perfume-Guru Luca Turin writes on this: "Though intended as a feminine, LMH basically is a barbershop masculine, and none worse for it, with a musky-sweaty feeling that goes in the direction of KOUROS but quiter and more subtle. Suprisingly good and well worth trying".

    For once I agree with Luca! But feel a little bad about my lies now :( !! I will probaly not tell him as he would so nooot wear it then. SO silly gender-labelling scents I think! Male-members of BN - give this a try!! :)

    19 May, 2011

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Eucris by Geo F Trumper

    Eucris litterally makes me shiver with pleasure! It perfectly fits the idea I have about a classic and traditional but absolutely not aged fragrance. A dirty/clean peppery /cumin opening evolving into a strong herbal-musky drydown while a robust oakmoss presence watches from the above. Crispy, snensual, dark, mature and elegant but not mannered. Probably not so easy to wear but nonetheless excellent. A staple in my wardrobe.

    Since 1912, one of the best in its genre.

    19 May, 2011 (Last Edited: 14 February, 2012)

    Primrose's avatar

    United States United States

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    Midnight in Paris by Van Cleef & Arpels

    I was intrigued by the leather accord noted. For me, the accord did not make itself known in a dramatic way.

    When I tried Midnight in Paris, I reacted to the warmth of the scent. At first, I was vaguely reminded of Balmain Ambre Gris. As the drydown progressed, I kept getting impressions of spice here and there, perhaps the sharpness of the rosemary.

    All in all, like Foetidus, I was not impressed. Others may beg to differ, but I would not buy a full bottle.

    Pleased, yes, but not one I will buy.

    EDIT: I did buy the EDT of this at a discount. Will use it as a summer scent.

    19 May, 2011 (Last Edited: 20th July, 2012)

    duray's avatar



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    Jacomo de Jacomo Deep Blue by Jacomo

    bought it thinking this one might have some similarity to GIT.
    I was completely wrong. the opening is so harsh and "chemical"
    It is LOUD and rough.
    I can smell a lot of violet...violet..violet...and musk, musk, musk.
    I think I prefer Cool water when choosing alternative of GIT.

    20th May, 2011

    Jamethiel's avatar

    Australia Australia

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    Paloma Picasso / Mon Parfum by Paloma Picasso

    A perfume for night or when I'm feeling particularly feminine. The coriander and patchouli amp on me, but the honey and hyacinth make it lush. I can't smell any rose, and I swear there's jasmine in there.

    20th May, 2011

    Swanky's avatar

    United States United States

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    Contradiction for Men by Calvin Klein

    Contradiction is a like a very poor man's, generic rendition of Moustache or Parfum d'Habit. There's a sharp citrus/lime note at the top. Moustache and Pd'H go on to become fascinating masculine juices of forceful character. Contradiction (lame name, too) runs out of gas too quickly.

    The smell is not quite as quotidian as others on men's counters these days, but I can't say this is worth the money and I don't recommend it.

    20th May, 2011

    Jamethiel's avatar

    Australia Australia

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    Sung by Alfred Sung

    Very, VERY strong. Overpowering floral. The Hyacinth, orange blossom and rose stomp all over everything else in this fragrance. It's got a huge amount of silage and it lasts.

    I wear it occasionally, but I have to be in the mood. It's not my go-to fragrance, and it's certainly not something I would wear in a processional setting.

    20th May, 2011

    manicboy's avatar

    United States United States

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    L'Essence de Must de Cartier by Cartier

    Can it be this easy to make a great fragrance? Take 1-part bitter anise, 1-part tart grapefruit, 1-part cinnamon, 1-part ginger, 1-part vanilla and 1-part cedar and you have magic in a bottle. Everything here is in equal proportion and it works to great effect. It's not often you get a second chance, but Cartier saw the weaknesses of Must PH and pumped up the base (cedar and vanilla) to make L'Essence their finest fragrance, hands down. Reminds me of a more complex Lolita au Masculin which ironically came out in the same year. Must have been a run on anise and vanilla that year. Anyway, L'Essence is a flanker that is not only great but also is better than its predecessor. Finally!

    20th May, 2011

    Mister Kurt Russell's avatar



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    Neroli 36 by Le Labo

    After a few weeks of having Le Labo's Neroli 36, I'm still trying to figure out the intended use of this product. Unfortunately for me, I can't use it as an inviting scent since to me it smells of things that may have been expelled out of a whale and left to biodegrade on a polluted beach somewhere on the Atlantic... I mean this thing costs $220 for 100 mL... There's got to be some use for it... Maybe deep sea fishing?

    20th May, 2011

    Mister Kurt Russell's avatar



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    He Wood by Dsquared2

    I know that DSquared2's He Wood is considered by most as a very simple, albeit boring fragrance. That there isn't much going on here besides a few notes. And it's true, there really isn't much going on here. You put on that first spray on your skin you get that initial blast of flowers that is mostly dominated by violets which ends up lasting for a few hours as it becomes intertwined with the cedar note until it dries down to its simpler cedar base, and that's it.

    Granted, there are a few other notes going on here and the fragrance as a whole is balanced very well, but for the most part, unless you really choose to pay attention to them, they will linger unnoticed in the background supporting the two main players of violet and cedar...

    As for me, this simple fragrance fits the bill just fine.

    20th May, 2011

    bobosan336's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Terre d'Hermès by Hermès

    I got this fragrance today - bought it blind based on the numerous favorable reviews here. First blind buy for me and a big mistake that will never happen again.

    To test this I sprayed a single shot on my forearm - it hit me immediately, so hard as if a mule has kicked me in the face onto a busy highway only to be run over by a semi and a cement mixer, repeatedly. It felt like a gruesome combination of dried up orange juice and a dark asphalt/gasoline/brunt rubber combo. It struck me as extremely powerful and very very offensive.

    I kept it on for about an hour and at that point I could barely take it anymore. My girlfriend, who did not like it a tiny bit gave me an ultimatum to either go outside or wash this off. I washed my had three times with soap but the scent would not go off. I took a long shower and this did not remove the scent full, albeit it lessened to a somewhat acceptable level and almost pleasant scent. It has been 8 hours and I can still smell this on me. I am hoping I will finally be able to wash this off for good with my morning shower. I would bet money that you can swim in a chlorinated pool for 2 hours and the moment you come out this stuff would still drown out any scent in the gym... I must say that the power and longevity here is absolutely monstrous. It only the scent was not so monstrous...

    20th May, 2011

    Sir Sartana's avatar



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    Citrus Musk by Pinaud

    Love this offering from Pinaud, very addicting citrus sweet musk smell that drys down and settles into a subtle clean scent that sadly doesn't last long enough.It sees a place in my rotation......worth trying!

    20th May, 2011

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Let Me Play The Lion by LesNez

    Pencil shaving incense! Dry, austere and minimalistic. An harsh woody (cedar) / incensey opening turning into a sandalwood dyrdown. Simple but compelling. Something that you'll love if you're into Comme Des Garcons kind of fragrances. I do.

    20th May, 2011

    Jamethiel's avatar

    Australia Australia

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    Idole de Lubin by Lubin

    I love the idea of this perfume. And when I place it on my wrists, I get a gorgeous wash of sandalwood and rum, with a vague hint of saltiness (saffron?). And then nothing.

    After five minutes, you can only vaguely smell a faint, skinlike scent (possibly the leather? But a very tame leather, kind of like your grandma's old handbag that barely retains any leather scent), and then only by placing your nose right up against the skin where it was applied. Reapplying gets the same thing.

    I would love this perfume to work on me. I really, really would. But my skin just eats it, and I can't give something the thumbs up for five minutes of scent.

    20th May, 2011

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Portrait of a Lady by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

    Don't let the name misleading you, Portrait Of a Lady is a perfect unisex fragrance. Despite the fact oud is not listed between the notes I get a consistent dose of it together with pepper and, obviously, rose. In the opening, the pepper/rose accord brings to my mind of a sort of Parfum Sacre without civet, but then incense and oud make their appearance giving Portrait Of A lady a different twist. Patchouli and spices add extra depth to this solid composition. Amazing drydown.

    A master composition that If you're into bold and spicy rose fragrances you'll surely dig.

    20th May, 2011

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Champion by Davidoff

    A perfect fragrance if you do your workout routines with plastic dumbells! Cheap!

    20th May, 2011

    cello's avatar

    United States United States

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    Ambra del Nepal by I Profumi di Firenze

    This is a beautiful, simple fragrance. It takes the powerful notes of amber and vanilla, sprinkles a pinch of cardamom on top to give an almost dried, green edge, and lets them loose into the bottle for us to enjoy.

    The notes are well represented, and flow seamlessly. The overall smell is of rich, yet almost dusty, amber and vanilla - the amber forefront first, and then the vanilla shares stage for the second half of the act.

    Longevity and projection are not quite what you might expect from these big hitter notes, but this is a great comfort scent, and very versatile due to it's subtle nature. Easily worn in all but the hottest of temps - long after I have put away some of my heavy ambers.

    20th May, 2011

    shamu1's avatar

    United States United States

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    Xpec Original by Xpec

    This smells like Aramis without the leather. Harsh, pungent floral notes are what define Xpec, and this is what I like about it. This is a bold, daring scent, and it smells dirty. I like that.

    What I don't like is that unfortunately it smells like an unfinished fragrance. The notes aren't particularly well blended, and I feel like the perfumer spent all of her energy in simply making sure this was a daring scent, rather than paying attention to the balance of its numerous notes and how they interact with one another. It smells like it's loud and bold just for the sake of being loud and bold. After wearing this for an hour, I thought to myself, "Is that it?"

    Putting aside those negatives, however, Xpec does smell pretty good overall, and I respect it for its boldness. Fans of strong, raunchy floral scents may want to give this a whirl.

    MY RATING: 6.5/10

    20th May, 2011

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Antidote by Viktor & Rolf

    Huge pyramid-medium scent. Antidote it's not bad but far from being unique or particularly interesting. It has that kind of "familiar vibe" that makes me think of other designer's perfumes I smelled in the past 10 years, but not specifically one, more like a bunch of them blended together. Don't get me wrong, Antidote it's not bad at all, but maybe a bit cacophonic.

    An average quality oriental composition of moderate interest.

    20th May, 2011

    Dame Piglet's avatar



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    J'Adore by Christian Dior

    Abrasive top notes dry down to Dial soap scent on me. My friends have all remarked that "it's not bad, but smells like cheap perfume." On someone with different chemistry it may be wonderful. I detect no fruit in the fragrance at all.

    20th May, 2011

    Splash's avatar

    United States United States

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    Montana Parfum de Peau by Montana

    90’s edt version (I think- I don’t have the original box but my bottle is old and labeled made in France.)
    +1 for Tott’s review, which is precise to my experience.

    If you garden, you’ll recognize the tagete variety as “Orange Gem”.

    Warning: For serious chypre lovers only, Parfum de Peau is a jolie laide.

    20th May, 2011

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Eau d'Hermès by Hermès

    I'm usually into edgy, challenging, very challenging, almost stinky animalic leathery fragrances but I can't stand Eau D'Hermes. Please, don't blame me. I've been trying this fragrance countless times but there's something that really disturbs me in Eau D'Hermes. I don't know if it's the cumin or the incredibly noticeable retrò feel, but as a matter of fact my olfactory nerves transmit to my brain the wrong impulses and the feeling I have is of an aged citrus cologne that smells like bad breath.

    Now I'm ready for flogging!

    Note: It's me, it's surely me. Eau D'Herme deserves it status as a classic, but I still don't like it.

    20th May, 2011

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Lolita Lempicka by Lolita Lempicka

    A great fragrance! I think about Lolita Lempicka For Women as a sort of finished version of Au Masculin. I know it was originally released before the msculine version but it smells exactly like if Au Masculin is the crude/rough prototype and this one the finished, refined, sparkling and ready to wear version. A superb and perfectly balanced composition for women and a great alternative for those men who can't stand Au Masculin's cloying power. Highly recommended.

    Licorice and Anise on a transparent spicy/woody base. Simply one of the best in its genre.

    20th May, 2011

    Mar Azul's avatar

    Bulgaria Bulgaria

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    Blu pour Homme by Bulgari

    Bulgari's tribute to the famous Nivea scent, so good that it stays unchanged for decades. No irony here: it just goes where I'd always liked Nivea to go, adding depth and complexity. Smells familiar, bringing memories, yet it's not the cream; it's a fragrance.

    20th May, 2011

    SexPanther's avatar

    United States United States

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    1 Million by Paco Rabanne

    To me this is identical to John Varvatos signature scent. The lady at sephora was trying to push it as an exclusive frag. Both have a terrific dry down on my skin but the opening is too overwhelming for me to handle.

    20th May, 2011

    purplebird7's avatar

    United States United States

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    Hermèssence Osmanthe Yunnan by Hermès

    This is my favorite JCE perfume. I usually like basenote-heavy fragrances, and his compsitions are too airy for me, but, in this one, simple is appropriate. Osmanthe Yunnan has a rich, complex apricot note that smells like apricot skin, only sweet to the nose, not to the (imagined) taste. It is firmly affixed to a big, dry, woody note--the famed "tea" aroma. Overall, this perfume smells like a big jar of apricot-flavored tea leaves, a gorgeous scent. It is amazing to find this captured in a perfume--albeit one that is a skin scent. It has heft and presence, but negligible sillage. Now, to justify the $235 price for such a delicate perfume enjoyed at close range, that is my conundrum.

    20th May, 2011

    Showing 541 to 570 of 904.