Perfume Reviews

Latest Perfume Reviews

Total Reviews: 128928
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

APOM pour Femme by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

This starts out as a sweet and soft floral composition. Initially the orange blossom is laced with a rich and super-smooth ylang-ylang, but after the first few hours it is the orange blossom only.

This then lasts for the rest of the development. Towards the end whiffs of caramel are in the air at times, as are somewhat generic woodsy vibes that remain the least interesting part of this olfactoric trio.

The sillage is moderate to strong, the projection excellent - apply sparingly- and the longevity a very impressive eleven hours.

A soft and rich spring floral scent that is not too synthetic and is based on an agreeable orange blossom. 3.25/5.
23rd July, 2016

Bal d'Afrique by Byredo

A soft almost creamy bergamot and floral musk. A textural hint of vetiver puts it in the same postcode as Original Vetiver. Though not quite as effusive and distinctive as the Creed its persistence on skin is nevertheless commendable.
23rd July, 2016

Fleur Oriental by Miller Harris

Shalimar-esque sans the "plastic". Suits me. Nice Carnation note. I can wear this comfortably in hot weather.
My Masculine Carnation Monsieur Lanvin is a little heavy and Animalic for the Summer.
Did I say I like Carnation?
22nd July, 2016
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Oviatt Show all reviews
United States

Coeur de Noir by Beaufort London

This is a perfect example of niche perfumery creating pictures with scent, as opposed to creating a great perfume with scent. The picture that Coeur de Noir evokes for me is of Miss Havisham's house. Consumed by flames. The arson squad is poking around the smoldering remains looking for the source of the fire. Was this an accident? Does it matter? A perfect fragrance for a modern day Guy Fawkes. Non-firebrands need not apply.
22nd July, 2016

Cologne du Parfumeur by Guerlain

Just lovely!

I am planning to experiment with layering under a multitude of scents, as I've been told the effect is rather amazing.

On its own, though, it is quite refreshing and a "happy" scent, if you will. As Orange Blossom is a favorite of mine, this is easily a favorite. FBW.
22nd July, 2016

Bullion by Byredo

A case where the sum feels a lot less than its component parts. A plummy-saffrony-woody-floral oriental if I were pushed into classifying it. But if I'm brutally honest, it actually smells flat, the notes melding into one big synthetic linear accord. No significant leather to be found either, texturally or otherwise. Perhaps it's been reformulated?

To its credit BULLION projects very well, smelling attractively like a veiled sultry courtesan from a sheikh's harem. Such a conjured imagery alone is enough to give me *cough* I mean, give this fragrance a rise and that, my friends, is no bull. I'd certainly raise an eyebrow and perhaps flare a nostril too were I to smell this on a straight guy.
22nd July, 2016

Zino Davidoff by Davidoff

I find Zino subtle, and not very interesting, a light presentation of the listed notes. For this type of sandalwood (or sandal) smell, backed by sweetness, Tiffany for Men or Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Santal Noble could be better options.
22nd July, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Amyris Femme by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

The opening has a discretely fresh undertone - courtesy of some hints of citrusy vibes and a light and non-earthy vetiver - but it is mainly a floral note that is centred around a nice iris note. Whilst rich, it is an elegant iris, with a green undertone and not too sweet at all. An unashamedly floral affair.

The drydown brings in an incense that, again, combines richness with elegance. It is a light and ethereal balsamic tone; a far cry from the heavy solemn and ceremonial frankincense others have used and use. This is the incense antithesis to Amouage's splendid Interlude.

Yes, there is some oud in the base, but very discretely incorporated into the whole mix; think of the oud in Royal Oud - that's how discreet it is on my skin, just a touch more synthetic.

Towards the end the incense and the green and balsamic characteristics were off and what remains is the iris that, gently, fades into the night.

The sillage is moderate, the projection excellent, and the longevity an amazing fourteen hours on my skin.

A scent for spring evenings, well-blended, not without an original and never too cloying or annoyingly synthetic. 3.25/5.
22nd July, 2016

M/Mink by Byredo

Acrid and inky. The scent of a photocopier toner cartridge, more or less. Something tells me I should spend less time at the office...
22nd July, 2016

Intense Black by Lomani

Yes, I (partially) detect the Royal Oud's reference; this fragrance is ideally like an infant coming out from a Creed Royal Oud/Ted Lapidus Black Soul's love story. Nothing new under the sun.
22nd July, 2016

No. 22 by Chanel

A Basenoter sent me a sample of No. 22, perhaps a version from before the exclusive line was released, and it's a great Chanel fragrance as I have come to expect; a variation on Chanel No. 5, of which there are several, and this one is impeccable.
21st July, 2016

Havana by Aramis

Aramis Havana gets a thumbs up from me, an agreeable fragrance, curiously familiar, and simple despite the long list of notes. I could wear this routinely.
21st July, 2016

Eau de Prep by Tommy Hilfiger

This is interesting that it is similar to the original Tommy for Men with just a big of a twist. It smells like the went for a "Sport" version of the original Tommy with light herbs. Longevity is around the 4 hour mark on me with 2 sprays with limited projection (which is the usual for a mass produced juice). Still has that 90's frat boy smell to my nose but if that's your thing go for it especially for the online price being what it is.
21st July, 2016
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Westbrook by Byredo

Clean and airy, a transparent gin and vetiver scent, with a faint hint of dry green bitterness that in my mind places it firmly in the masculine territory. Nice and versatile, with modest projection. Don't be swayed by the listed notes though, they are red herrings.

I must confess I'm not a basketball fan. I don't know who Russell Westbrook is. If this fragrance is a reflection of the kind of competitor he is then I guess he must be a competent though not particularly outstanding player. A team player. My kind of player.

That's why I'm giving this a thumbs up.
21st July, 2016

Godolphin by Parfums de Marly

Tuscan Leather at lower cost and better presentation.
In this Genre I think
AdP Leather is the best
Followed by PdM and TF.

21st July, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Absolue Pour Le Soir by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Strong is the opening blast: strong in harsh, chemically-skanky-civety animalism, brightened up up by a fairly screechy benzoin. Soon the sweetness of an agreeable honey aroma is mixed in, and it is the combination of the animalistic scratchiness with the gourmand more that creates the tension that provides this composition with its drive and development.

Further down the track an incense tries to develop, but the benzoin rather brutally suffocates it. With time the harshness mellows and the honeyed impression gradually comes to the fore. A couple of hours before the end I am getting mainly honey with the animalistic side having morphed into a nice backdrop to the product of our flying friends.

On my skin the sillage is strong, the projection huge and the longevity a stunning fifteen hours.

This wintery scent is based on the original concept of animalistic vs. sweet and that is executed very well. The major drawback of this loud attention-getter is the overly synthetic nature of its ingredients, which results in a laboratory potpourri of questionable quality. Overall thus an average score. At least there is no lab oud.
21st July, 2016

Tobacco & Tulle by Soivohle (Liz Zorn)

Dirty/raunchy/musky tobacco...tobacco in a barnyard in the hot sun...like stepping into one of those walk-in humidors...decent throw...dry/bitterish....not a sweet tobacco scent...after a little while starts turning more into a rose fragrance...tobacco drops into the background...resiny...overall, like this a lot...a good olfactory experience...
Resiny Tobbaco Rose
21st July, 2016
Oviatt Show all reviews
United States

Oud Stars : Fars by Xerjoff

Spurious, like most of this house's offerings. I want to like this but find the whole line expensive and... okay.
21st July, 2016

Oud Stars : Fars by Xerjoff

I really like this...REALLY like this.

Not on me (yet!), but on my beloved husband. It really works on him, and therefore, it works for me...really works for me.

This stays in the wardrobe.

I love the cade, the jasmine and geranium, and was very excited to be able to pick out the Haitian Vetiver! I love the pure stuff, and know it well! The type of oud used is new to me, and I like it. This is the first Xerjoff I've tried that I really liked. The mixture of resinous with floral is really nice, and somehow works on my husband.
21st July, 2016

Gypsy Water by Byredo

Here's Byredo attempting to pull a Guerlain, with predictably laughable results. The bright and coniferous opening engages the nose before segueing to a light peppery orris and incense. Nice! It projects well too.

What a good start, or so I thought.

Unfortunately the party was soon gatecrashed by a lumbering ambery-vanillic accord that overstayed its welcome and just about overwhelmed everything save for the persistent incense.

If you enjoy vanillic insense scents as much as I do this is probably middle of the pack, some ways behind Atelier who did a far superior job with their Insensee Vanille.
21st July, 2016

Casbah by Robert Piguet

Angelica root is such a strong note, and it dominates the opening, scaring me off slightly. As it fades, though, the perfume becomes softer and more agreeable in the middle, the kind of development that could make me appreciate the top. Into the base, however, new harshness develops, presumably from the intensity of the incense.
20th July, 2016

Acqua di Parma Colonia Quercia Eau de Cologne Concentrée by Acqua di Parma

Stardate 20160720:

Generic: floral and powdery.Some Cardamom in the heart.
Other than the leather, this line is disappointing.
There is an Axe/Lynx that is very similar to this and came out a few years ago. I will update once I figure it out the name.
Save your money and get that Axe.
20th July, 2016

Halston Z-14 by Halston

Stardate 20160720:
Vintage Version(3 ingredients):

A relic form the past that is still going strong. A classic chypre with spices thrown in. Blended very well.
At the price the vintage sells($10/oz), I can't think of any reason not to buy.

Restrictions on Oakmoss have made this less fun but one should definitely go for a sniff.
20th July, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Cologne pour le Matin by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

The opening is a combination of a lovely bergamot with an equally nice citrus-lemon note. They are not refreshing blasts, but more invigorating breezes and nonetheless exuding a discrete brightness.

The drydown develops with pleasant lavender core, which is not spectacular but still very agreeable, and a floral herbal matrix - iris, thyme, hints greenness - provide some additional facets. These heart notes are agreeable albeit not particularly exciting. There is not much development after that, and these notes are fading out gently.

The performance is decent with moderate sillage, adequate projection and eight hours of longevity.

This summery scent creates a bit of a conundrum: whilst clearly not a bad product, the second part is not really rising above pleasant mediocrity and so this is not deserving an unequivocal thumbs-up. The first fresh-ish part, however, is nice, and the fact that it lasts for over half the time of the development on me makes me push it - just - across the line to a barely positive score. 3/5.
20th July, 2016

Piper Leather by Illuminum

I was enjoying the top notes of this fragrance, Piper Leather from the house of Illuminum, but the late mid to early base had me contemplating thumbs down with its harsh chemical aspect. In a twist, the late stages of the base were a return to form.
20th July, 2016

Jasmin Fauve by Ex Nihilo

Ex Nihilo Jasmine Fauve is all about "pulsating" neutral-soapy french mannerism (as a new generation "polished" drier Ysatis), an extremely sophisticated take on a synthetic floral-musky-leathery airy accord. The floral accord is soapy-chic, vaguely robotic and anything but dirty or indolic. Jasmine and tuberose support the mastering lily of the valley (angular and edgy) in a quite vibrant humid floral Can-can. A self-confident super unreachable parisian lady on her 30's jumps ideally on mind with her paralyzing hypnotic smile and the molecular aroma of moisturizing soaps, florals and pheromonal sweat. A narcotic organic poison to die for. Leather is properly like a sort of languid soapy suedish twist (actually I get more musk and soapy ambroxan than suede) while the floral bouquet is variegated, changeful and vibrant (lily of the valley more than jasmine and tuberose under my psychotic nose). Lily is kind of aqueous, angular and breezy like a typical peony's vibe straight from a transparent pond of that enchanted forest. Tuberose comes up along the way and it's so well calibrated and restrained that I end up to love in it a spark that I tend to dislike elsewhere in perfumery when it sprouts out in to something creamy and visceral. The atmosphere is surely peppery, fluidy and kind of orangy. This juice unfolds (in a cleaner/lighter more modern way) that typically classic parisian floral-musky-chypre vibe that we catch as well in several further creations from the same brand (Fleur Narcotique, Love Shot to quote two) and that epitomizes a huge repertoire of french classy grandeur. There is something musky-aqueous-cosmetic in its appeal waving in the air in a so soapy, balmy hyper floral way. I catch as well a glamour-chic touch of "alien" vibe a la Thierry Mugler in the dry down (being anyway this yet modern Ex Nihilo's more firmly anchored in to a classic french "olfactory legacy"). At the end of the trip this bright and "on steroids" valzer of tuberose, lily, probably peony and jasmine merges its substance in to a destabilizing soapy-suedish hellish/animalic milky way of prickly ambroxan and ostensibly organic sweaty molecules in order drive you crazy down a languid orgasmic groovy alley. A perturbing musky-soapy-neutral olfactive sloping groud which will spin your senses all around till peace of mind.
19th July, 2016

Encens Chembur by Byredo

A pleasant airy take on the incense genre that focuses on the lemony and resinous aspects of frankincense, ably supported by an appropriately assembled cast of players including elemi, clean musk and bergamot.

ENCENS CHEMBUR projects well and maintains a noticeable presence despite its more restrained personality. While I agree it is not particularly riveting I do appreciate its affable, easygoing nature.

So what if it costs a pretty penny? Sometimes you just want to hang out with your fragrance friend and not rack your brains figuring out its intentions.

19th July, 2016

Dolce di Giorno by Bois 1920

I'm really surprised this isn't getting more attention (or more positive reviews).

It opens with heavy duty fruit, but with a good bit of cinnamon and vanilla to balance it out. It pretty quickly follows into a very woody and spicy blend of cedar, sandalwood, and cardamom. I get decent projection from it for four hours or so, and it lingers on skin for another four to six after that.

One of my favorites for the fall and winter!
19th July, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Aqua Universalis Forte by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Right from the start do I the core notes of a delicious jasmin with rose. Initially there is a touch if background freshness, the result of bergamot and whiffs of lemon, but these are shaken off soon to lay bare the floral heart of this creation.

It is the jasmin that is most impressive. Intensive, full of natural richness and smooth. It is combined skillfully with a fairly bright rose, not the dark and velvety type bit more of an elegant and optimistic rose impression, with the slightly woodsy hints of rose stems further down in the development of the middle notes.

The other component is a basket of white flowers, and I am getting an especially prominent muguet. It is fairly sweet, grows to merge with the other florals and takes over in the base. This whole floral mix is sweet, but never intrusive or cloying; it is an elegant sweetness.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and a splendid longevity of twelve hours.

This spring scent is unashamedly floral, pleasantly sweet and lovely. It is a bit linear and not supremely creative, but very well blended of excellent ingredients. The great performance is one of its fortes. 3.5/5
19th July, 2016

Shalimar Souffle de Parfum by Guerlain

I unabashedly love this.

Why? Because I chose to ignore the name and the iconic shape of the bottle. To me, this is a completely new scent, one that has nothing to do with the original, and it is truly beautiful. In fact, it strangely pairs well with L'heur Bleu (I happen to be sampling both, one on each wrist).

The opening is just as lovely as the dry down, but I would recommend it for the dry down - it is rather amazing, at least on my skin. The jasmine comes thru soft as a whisper, and the rose lays gently in the background. This is about as opposite of my more intense bottles, such as Ropion's masterpiece Carnal Flower as you can get, while still alluding to sensuality.

The vanilla is light and the musk is feminine. The colors chosen for this bottle definitely fit the overall tone of the scent - feminine, ethereal, and sensual.
19th July, 2016
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