Fragrance Reviews from May 2011

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    pearlfingering's avatar

    United States United States

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    1000 by Jean Patou

    There is a shortage of sophisticated osmanthus perfumes. The soliflores are trendy now, but they always make the easy allusion to tea. 1000 is very oriental in the asian sense, even if it is a classical chypre. The song Hong Kong Garden by Siouxie and the Banshees comes to mind, Marie Antoinette soundtrack and everything. This is a dark, glamorous and exotic scent, certainly not accessible but pleasant. Although many people associate civet with old ladies, it is used exquisitely, giving this perfume great staying power and sillage. The osmanthus combined with the aldehydes and civet create a brandied peach accord. I really enjoy all the herbs in it, as well; cool, slightly medicinal with pronounced indoles.

    26 May, 2011

    ArthurFerreira's avatar

    Brazil Brazil

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    Platinum Égoïste by Chanel

    Very amazing masculine scent with a platinum note, like ZAAD EDP from O Boticário, but with better harmony between other notes. Different from the previous excelent Egoiste, you can use Platinum in all ocasions, all places, all time, all the year. Great from the top to base. Long lasting (12 hours). It´s another masterpiece from Chanel.

    26 May, 2011

    Diamondflame's avatar

    Singapore Singapore

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    Golden Aoud by Montale

    As in Black Aoud, the rose here is no less prominent, although it may seem overwhelmed in the beginning by the potency of these accompanying notes: oud, teakwood and patchouli, the latter imparting a noticeably camphoraceous vibe to the composition. If there is any 'leather' in here, it must have given my nose the proverbial slip.

    GOLDEN AOUD is sonorous but its high-pitched tonality feels a little strident and harsh compared to Black Aoud's assuredly smooth performance. On my skin all the interesting drama unfolds in the first 20 minutes, leaving behind a more conventional rose-patchouli-cedar scent that veers closer to the feminine side of the scale.

    Notes:
    Bulgarian rose, geranium bourbon, patchouli, leather, Jamaican capsicum pepper, oud, saffron, teakwood and Moroccan cedarwood.

    26 May, 2011

    kcg211's avatar



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    Baldessarini Ambré by Baldessarini

    Don't really like the opening, but the drydown is beautiful and it consists of a smooth leather and amber combination which is just beautiful.

    26 May, 2011

    robyogi's avatar

    United States United States

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    Borneo 1834 by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    As others have said, patchouli, cocoa, and camphor stand out. The patchouli in Borneo is one of my favorite renditions of this note that I've yet encountered. It's dry, earthy, even a little dusty. There's no amber or vanilla to soften it or smooth it. The cocoa, likewise, is all grown up - no sweetness here. The camphor-like note seems to provide a little lift, keeping this from being too dark and heavy. I have come to think of this as a grown up and warmer weather alternative to, of all things, Angel for Men. The tarry heaviness and sweetness of A*men is just too much for warmer days, and, frankly, becoming more challenging to wear with every passing year. Borneo provides similar notes presented in a very different - and IMO more mature - way.

    26 May, 2011

    BulldogLogistics's avatar



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    Night Spice by Shulton

    When this version of Old Spice was released, I tried it and it was given two thumbs up or a 5 star rating from me and my friends.

    26 May, 2011

    robyogi's avatar

    United States United States

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    Chergui by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Interesting how folks perceive fragrances so differently. I am a little shocked to see so many references to the sweetness of Chergui. I don't find it all that sweet...resinous for sure, but not sweet like so many of today's fragrances. Likewise, it's interesting to note how many different - and very strong - reactions this fragrance has elicited! It's so beautiful and so well-blended that I can't imagine having to scrub this off. Jaime B's analogy to a dissonant chord resolving to the tonic is apt - both are beautiful executions of tension and resolution. But, perhaps most surprising to me is that in all these reviews - 108 to date - no one has mentioned immortelle! To my nose, one cannot understand Chergui without noticing the immortelle sitting in the middle of this mass of scent, providing a substantial bitter-herbal balance to the heaviness of the resins, the sweetness of the honey and vanilla, and the softness of the floral and hay notes. In fact, more than anything, I'd call this probably the best use of immortelle in an oriental fragrance. It's there, and noticeable, but not out of place, as it can so often seem to me. All-in-all, Chergui seems to hover right near the edge of becoming too...something...you name it. But it holds together, retains its balance and presents a wonderful blend of resins, honey, floral notes, and hay that really does remind one of a hot wind, heavy with the scent of the miles of land it has blown through. One last note, for something that's now 10 years old, it still smells remarkably current. One of the undisputed greats of the oriental genre!

    26 May, 2011

    KillerScent's avatar



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    Dune pour Homme by Christian Dior

    Another fragrance in the line of Cool Water. (also similar to egoiste platinum)
    This is a fresh floral fougere, good by the time it was released but nowadays you can find better things, and, of course, a lot of cheap imitations, deodorants, shower gels ...

    "Old" fragrance lovers sure will love this stuff and will say this is a masterpiece .This is for all them .

    26 May, 2011

    ufo1's avatar



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    Sandalwood by Pacifica

    Agreed...............it smells like pure CITRUS....not Sandalwood at all.....

    26 May, 2011

    ufo1's avatar



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    Sandalwood / Santalia by Mount Romance

    Very nice and not too strong (as in overpowering). As far as I know it can only be purchased in Australia (online) from Mount Romance. Each Sandalwood is different (obviously) but this one is quite pleasant. It does not have the Mysore-type scent (Indian). Search for Mount Romance and you will find their web site.

    26 May, 2011

    incognito_bart's avatar



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    Vetiver 46 by Le Labo

    Well, this is my first review and I am not hesitant to dedicate it to this amazing fragrance. Finding Le Labo in London was not so hard bearing in mind it was more or less bang on Marylebone high street. As you enter it, you immediately perceive this "Tous Saints" (if you know about London fashion a bit, you know which brand I am talking about) slightly gothic/metallic decor that seems to eloquently reflect the kind of business they are doing there. Now enough gibberish...

    Many people pointed out that this fragrance resembles Comme des Garcons 2; just a more concentrated version of it. I have never tried CdG so would not be able to comment on it but I can definitely say this is very very potent. By far the rudest fragrance I have ever smelt and immediately lots of pepper hits you straight across the face. Then follows the incense smell which I was not so sure about and then the Vetiver!!! If you thought Guerlain Vetiver was no-nonsense, this takes it to quite another level. nsamadi pointed it out that it had nothing to do with Vetiver but I think it was quite potent. And good Vetiver. Pretty difficult to find good Vetiver with mass-produces. The material was absolutely top-notch and although the fragrance was jolly pricey (38 pounds for 15ml?!) I think it was worth it all on molecular level. I am very keen on getting the most out of my investment and I think this is a very good deal, indeed. It is meant to contain a lot of Frankincense (says the lovely attendant who seemed very French, lots of giveaways whilst speaking. Exceedingly helpful though) although my dull nose did not perceive much at all.
    I find it refreshing also that Le Labo makes it right in front of you which adds that much more enjoyment especially if you are a failed amateur perfumer like me!

    Probably would not get you that much female attention but this will certainly be a good ego-boost especially for students with the propensity to spill out some food cash for a good smelly and in a bad need of retail-therapy feel-good session. Definitely worth a try!

    p.s. I do agree one should never buy this blind. After all, buying niches blindly is a bad consumption pattern.

    p.p.s. If somebody has a good suggestion for a clean, soapy smelly, do let me know as I ended up buying this whilst really what I wanted was something powdery!



    Guerlain Vetiver
    Terre d'Hermes
    Le Labo Vetiver 46
    Prada Infusion d'Homme

    26 May, 2011 (Last Edited: 27 May, 2011)

    Buzzlepuff's avatar

    United States United States

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    Vetiver Bourbon by Miller Harris

    Vetiver Bourbon is named for the specific variety of vetiver - bourbon vetiver - that originates from Reunion Island. This tiny island floats east off Madagascar in the Indian Ocean and was renamed from Bourbon Island after the French Revolution.

    Miller Harris Vetiver Bourbon is a deep green salty vetiver that when combined with oakmoss, patchouli and amber has a distinctly oriental feel. The base has a slight licorice bite to add character to the thick green scent. Patchouli is barely noticeable but adds to the clean darkness of this scent. This vetiver is best applied to the body so it is not smelled too close up. I think this juice has an almost narcotic smell. It is powerful but enticing.

    For many years the special group of Miller Harris fragrances called "Nouvelle Collection" were unavailable in the U.S. but are now being distributed by MiN New York (I am not affiliated) at their shop in Soho, NYC and also soon to be available to the rest of us. My favorites from this extra special group from Miller Harris are Bourbon Vetiver (vetiver oriental), Fleurs de Sel (ocean leather) and En Sens de Bois (orris incense).

    26 May, 2011 (Last Edited: 27 May, 2011)

    apayne182's avatar

    United States United States

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    The One for Men by Dolce & Gabbana

    For the smell, It keeps from being a thumbs down, but i was not that impressed by the smell as some others wer. It is a rather musky fragrance, and i can see what people mean by tropical vibe but it's not really tropical. I get a little grapefruit up top along with that 'tropical vibe' and stays relatively linear on my skin. the longevity and projection are poor, so i spray on my shirt (as i do with all fragrances with poor longevity and projection). I do not reach for this often as i only find it good for going out and sometimes it can be worn at school in the fall. I do not think this is that good for the summer because i feel the smell is a little heavy even though it does not project, the smell is just kinda heavy. I will finish my 50 ml and probably not buy another bottle because i have other fragrances for this kind of use that i enjoy more.

    26 May, 2011 (Last Edited: 30th July, 2011)

    Darvant's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Scent Intense Parfum by Costume National

    The "possibly" deeper, vaguely more viscous version of one of my all time favourite (look at my Scent Intense's review). As well as already written by others about Scent Intense, "this is the enigma of dark, smoky ambience of amber". Gorgeous. This fragrance is an hyper glamour oriental-floral chypre. This version in my opinion reduces the watery feel provided by crisp-fluidy tea note and enhances the intensity of smoke and woods with an addition of viscosity may be by a touch of secret final benzoin or labdanum. The note of jasmine smells more present. No words to add.

    26 May, 2011 (Last Edited: 10th July, 2014)

    Darvant's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    New York Oud by Bond No. 9

    This one is a concern for me. New York Oud could be an ideal fierce beast due to flank me in the battles of the obscure nights out while i'm roaming for clubs but it won't cause is absurdly expensive. A dark, animal, organic, sweaty, dissonant, crisp, damnly expensive aoud-rose combo with a certain level of fruity acidity (a notable crisp plummy presence) and fresh "carnality". My olfactory life has been initially perturbed by this apparition cause the sensuality from its watery aoud is in line with my expectations for a dark dirty/sensual captivating fragrance to seduce. The problem is frankly the price, too much for my audacity in order to overcome the resistances coming from my sense of the limit. This Bond's turns endly out surprisingly fresh/dry and can be worn fairly in the warm climates as well as for a frosty NY' s winter night out. There is a certain level of warm-cool feromonical dark-blu feel in its final outcome that reminds a bit (in several of its nuances) the woodsy-ambery virile Green Irish Tweed's dry down. The tart opening is all bitter plum and sour saffron with a touch of prickly, sparkling, bit acid fruitiness from citrus. This source of dissonance holds on its effects throughout the trip. The saffron is prominent and it will be a protagonist throughout the journey. The central part is the soul of the juice. In a while a burst of red roses and orris projects its wake of sin plunged in a sink of concentrated (but surprisingly aqueous) visceral aoud with dosage at 30%. Still on this phase the sweetness is a moderated one and keeps to hold a acrid, virile, balsamic, fizzy, almost salty tone that manages to penetrate till the depth of the brain. This part of the evolution provides along the way sinister darkness, boldness (because of a strong patchouli flanking the flowers) and intensity to the scent which anyway was expecting a further touch of animalism to be that sort of beast it is. That touch is afforded by an hint of rooty animalic, almost honeyed black musk joined with a vetiver blended and mixed in a bath of resinous animal honey. Can such a sort of acid and full of secretions feromonical aroma hook our senses? Yes for sure because of its eroticism, because of its flavour of sex! Obviously projection and longevity are stunning together with the packaging but i will satisfy my senses with a less expensive beast.

    26 May, 2011 (Last Edited: 10th July, 2014)

    cello's avatar

    United States United States

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    Féminité du Bois by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Original Shiseido EDP

    This is a tale of three notes, all dressed in purple attire that show off their perfectly proportioned curves (not unlike the bottle that they reside in), singing a melody that each realize is more important than any solo they could perform.

    Plum, violet and cedar. Each step forward to receive their applause, but quickly step back in line to continue their performance. A melody of balance. Sure, there is a supporting cast - a sprinkle of cinnamon, a dash of cumin. But the melody is all about the purple main players.

    Plum, violet and cedar.

    This one is soft and reflective. It is the mother of a whole series of really good perfumes from S. Lutens. But this is where is all began, and it remains a mother in firm control of her offspring. She rules, and they only follow.

    27 May, 2011

    jcastano's avatar

    United States United States

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    Unforgivable by Sean John

    I'd like to second silentrich's statement. It seems that many individuals out there like to automatically disregard a fragrance based on the "celebrity" or any other preconceived negative"label" they tend to place on these type of scents. Okay, it's Sean John, I get it....but the fragrance isn't all that bad. In fact, it's probably one of the best celebrity scents out there. Is it worth the hefty price tag? Absolutely not, but what fragrance is these days. However, I've seen local discount retailers price a 1.7 oz bottle from anywhere between $15-$30. In that regard, it's a wonderful cheapie. It's very modern and has an uncanny sexiness to it. Dare I say, it has it's own "swagger". With that said, the notes in here are interesting. In the opening, I get a strong fruity, tart citrus over a very green birch leaf but all that is short lived because within seconds, that citrus, birch leaf becomes a bit salty (marine-like) with whiffs of spiced florals (only sage and lavender to my nose) taking account as well. The base uses pieces of all those elements and adds a rum accord and light amber. I don't get any woods at all nor tonka bean.
    The overall scent is just a fresh, fruity, lightly spiced, boozy citrus, pseudo-aquatic. It works well dressed up or down, day or night, in any season. Longevity could be better, 3-6 hours. Projection is moderate but becomes a skin scent after 2 hours. Still, even with horrible longevity, I get compliments on this frequently. DO NOT over apply! It WILL get cloying and sharp and you'll end up really hating it.

    For the record, The MI comparison is a bit accurate but more overstated than anything. I think "Puff" was most likely aiming for a similar scent to MI so those who do not have the funds to invest in a Creed can have a similar experience to the Creed legend. Did he succeed? Eh, somewhat. Unforgivable is a bit darker and spicier though, it's more of a clubbing, night out type of scent, while MI is brighter, fresher, and more of a spring/summer fling type of deal. I remain neutral in my rating because although I enjoy it, for some reason, I've always felt this scent is missing something. Every time I wear this, I feel that this fragrance lacks that OOMF factor......something big, something heavy, something I can't pinpoint for the life of me, but it's still sexy. I enjoy the top notes more than anything. If the top notes were the actual drydown, this would probably be in the top 5 in my collection. My overall rating B-

    27 May, 2011

    robyogi's avatar

    United States United States

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    Kenzo Power by Kenzo

    Slightly powdery fruity-floral on an ambery base. It definitely shares some DNA with Dior Homme. It also reminds me in some ways of Prada's iris for men. Ultimately, I've got to agree with Off-Scenter in his observation that the "fruit" is too "frooty." Froot Loops. Ha! Seems like an uninspired fragrance for girls, to be honest. (I'll refrain from social commentary here.) Sweet, fruity, floral. Also, very familiar in that I've smelled this often, and at high volume, in places where 20-somethings hang out. If you want sweet, powdery, and somewhat floral, try Dior's Cologne Blanche. It's got some class to it. I'm going with neutral because it's not horrid. Personally, I can't wait for this sweet-fruity trend to end.

    27 May, 2011

    Red Theodora's avatar

    United States United States

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    Bulgari pour Femme by Bulgari

    I sampled Bulgari pour Femme because I'm always on the look out for another perfume with violet notes. I am absolutely mad for violets! For some reason, though, pour Femme gives me no thrill. In fact, it oddly reminds me of the new Soir de Paris.

    27 May, 2011

    Red Theodora's avatar

    United States United States

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    Hanae Mori (new / Butterfly) by Hanae Mori

    For the life of me I can't smell any fruity top notes on this scent. All I get are the spicy vanilliac notes in the base. Which are good, but the more I smell them the more they remind me of another perfume - Dior Addict.

    27 May, 2011

    Red Theodora's avatar

    United States United States

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    Lolita Lempicka L'Eau de Minuit / The Midnight Fragrance by Lolita Lempicka

    I love this scent. It's an ampted up version of the original Lolita Lempicka. Much more violet (which in my view is always a good thing) and a lovely vanilla praline accord that gives me a toothache, but in a good way!

    27 May, 2011

    Red Theodora's avatar

    United States United States

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    Pleasures by Estée Lauder

    Pleasures is a pure, clean floral - and there is nothing wrong with that.

    In Perfumes:the Guide, Luca Turin says Americans have a obsession with smelling clean. He makes it sound like it's some kind of flaw in the American character. Well, I do like smelling clean, be it a flaw or not. And I like the clean scent of Pleasures.

    27 May, 2011

    Red Theodora's avatar

    United States United States

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    Drôle de Rose by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    What a lovely little pixish violet/rose fragrance this is! It makes me feel like dancing.

    27 May, 2011

    Red Theodora's avatar

    United States United States

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    Par Amour Toujours by Clarins

    Yes, Par Amour Toujours is fruity and citrusy and sweet. All things I do like. But it lasts about 3 minutes on my skin and is gone! Poof! I am not happy.

    27 May, 2011

    Red Theodora's avatar

    United States United States

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    La Violette by Annick Goutal

    I am a self confessed, out and out, violet lover and I do not like this scent! Too sweet and smells of cheap aldehydes. Oh, what went wrong?

    27 May, 2011

    Red Theodora's avatar

    United States United States

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    Jaïpur by Boucheron

    I like Jaipur. It's a lovely apricot and plum tart that won't go to my hips!

    27 May, 2011

    Oh_Hedgehog's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Yuzu Fou by Parfum d'Empire

    This is Eau Sauvage in flip-flops, sipping a mojito. With flashy bigarade orange and verbena up top, and more cumin than oakmoss in the base, it’s a vitalized, hairy-chested take on its Dior inspiration, and all the more engaging because of it.

    27 May, 2011

    Oh_Hedgehog's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Vanillary by Gorilla Perfume

    Never has a vanilla perfume been so incontrovertibly sweet – tooth-stickingly sweet – and yet as sombre and mired in shadows as Vanillary. A chiaroscuro toffee-and-jasmine affair that lasts for hours and is worthy of serious contemplation.

    27 May, 2011

    Splash's avatar

    United States United States

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    Cittá di Kyoto by Santa Maria Novella

    Citta di Kyoto opens big with luscious iris and lotus, very fresh and light filled. Settling down quickly at the middle, CdK becomes a scent twin to vintage Halston. Unfortunately Citta di Kyoto evaporates to almost nothing by the bottom. I have both fragrances and so decadently layer the two together. It’s like adding an upper register to Halston and providing a lower registar to CdK….amazing!

    27 May, 2011

    JubliantUvula's avatar

    United States United States

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    Le Baiser du Dragon by Cartier

    I got a lot of incense, LOTV, and lemon.

    27 May, 2011

    Showing 721 to 750 of 904.