Fragrance Reviews from May 2011

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    jcastano's avatar

    United States United States

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    Kiton Men by Kiton

    This was quite the find for me. After hearing about the much hyped Kiton Black, I had to try its older brother. For me, this scent wasn't too impressive but indeed did not disappoint. Judging from the notes, I was expecting a sweet floral, possibly warm at its base...something similar to Lanvin L'Homme or Uomo? by Moschino but instead, a dry, green floral was the main theme. Much like the reviews have already stated, this fragrance is dominated by a heavy violet note, the same violet note in Green Irish Tweed and Fahrenheit but closer to GIT. It also has that same green freshness in GIT's opening that actually lasts throughout the duration of this scent. As a matter of fact, Kiton Man is a great alternative to GIT and for about $100 less, I'd say it's a bargain. I truly mean that it is identical, maybe a few subtle differences but VERY FEW if not any!
    The opening of Kiton Man is very odd. It's tangy and tart while also being bitter and dry, like biting into a grapefruit and tasting the skin, but once it settles down after about 20 minutes, the violet dominant floral heart gradually transitions and soon the base adds a lighly sweetened accord with a dry oakmoss and cedar and a light musk. By no means is this warm or rich in nature, but rather light, very green, and slightly fresh. Also, it's not sickly sweet as some reviews might lead you to believe, which is why I got it in the first place. Instead, the sweetness is very subdued. Projection is moderate with a scent cloud for about 3-4 hours and longevity is about 8+ hours on my skin. It's good dressed up or down and in all seasons except winter. Finally, I recommend this for anyone 20 and up. A young guy in jeans to an older gentleman in a suit can pull this off nicely. What's great is the first time I wore it, I received a mass amount of compliments.
    My final rating B+

    31st May, 2011

    Hartman Design's avatar

    United States United States

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    Dunhill Pure by Dunhill

    Pleasant, uninspired yawnwear...perfect for office drones in small cubicles who might otherwise offend their co-workers with a more aggressive and interesting fragrance. There's nothing wrong with Dunhill Pure other than marginal longevity -- but there's nothing in the bottle that will bring a smile to your face, either. The office equivalent of a day full of data entry...I'm get drowsy just thinking about it.

    31st May, 2011

    Mr-Scratch-N-Sniff's avatar

    United States United States

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    Acqua di Giò pour Homme by Giorgio Armani

    Unlike most I have no bias against the fact a lot of other people wear this. Disliking a fragrance for that reason is simply stupid. This is a masculine citrus/aquatic.​ Fantastic projection and longevity without being too overpowering. Perfect for summer wear. I bought me a bottle within a week of sampling.

    31st May, 2011

    Kukka's avatar

    United States United States

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    Love to the Fullest by Reese Witherspoon

    Smells fresh and spicy at the same time. Stays warm and a little sweet a few hours later. Very sensual and sexy. A little goes a long way...

    31st May, 2011

    Mr-Scratch-N-Sniff's avatar

    United States United States

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    212 Men by Carolina Herrera

    I got to start off by saying that I havent worn this without receiving at least 1 compliment yet. I would describe it as a powdery floral green scent. You just feel so fresh and clean while wearing this. If Mr. Clean had a signature scent this would be it. It says it has citrus top notes but I dont detect them at all. The notes I detect are the grass, gardenia, and the musk. Projection and longevity are top notch but not cloying at all. I just dont like this smell very much at all.

    31st May, 2011

    Mr-Scratch-N-Sniff's avatar

    United States United States

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    Aqua pour Homme Marine by Bulgari

    As compared to the original the saltiness is toned down about 90%. Instead of salt there is fruit. Kind of a melon grapefruit mix. It is really fresh and light. Projection and longevity are average. It lasts about 3-5 hours for me. Very linear but the basenotes include a bit of wood. I have only been to a beach once but I cant help but picture myself at a beach relaxing every time I smell this.

    31st May, 2011

    Mr-Scratch-N-Sniff's avatar

    United States United States

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    Essential by Lacoste

    A good blend of green and citrus. A great summer fragrance. It says the top notes quickly disappear and then reappear with "Time Released Technology" It doesnt have the greatest longevity or projection but its not horrible. The tomato in it can definitely be detected and overpower some of the other notes. Ends with a little woodier vibe. All in all, I enjoy it quite a bit.

    31st May, 2011

    Red Theodora's avatar

    United States United States

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    Jessica McClintock by Jessica McClintock

    For a long time this was my June " perfume of the month ". The lily-of-the-valley brings to my mind white bridal gowns ( which of course is what Jessica McClintock is famous for), and it is a nice light scent for the summer. Although it will never rank amoung the best, it is still a good fragrance.

    31st May, 2011

    Mr-Scratch-N-Sniff's avatar

    United States United States

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    Aqua pour Homme by Bulgari

    The mandarin opening quickly gives way to a spicy, salt water, and woodsy scent. Longevity and projection are quite good in the heat at around 5-7 hours. It is subtle but not too subtle and can certainly be detected. I prefer a little more of a refreshing scent for summer but for spring or fall I could see this being great. I can see where many people would be turned off by the saltiness but it blends well with the other notes.

    31st May, 2011

    Kukka's avatar

    United States United States

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    Kate by Kate Moss

    I love the rose & patchouli combination. This is a poor girl's version of Bulgari's Rose Essentiale, which is my absolute favorite. Interesting note that Kate Moss was the model for Bulgari Rose. My husband loves this, so I wear it for him. I haven't seen Kate's other fragrances state-side, but I look forward to smelling them.

    31st May, 2011

    Kukka's avatar

    United States United States

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    Rose Essentielle by Bulgari

    This is my absolute favorite fragrance. Floral and spice without being too sweet or masculine. A perfect combination. I found that the dry down was a sweet warm musk, very sexy. A perfect date fragrance! Super romantic!

    31st May, 2011

    the_good_life's avatar

    Germany Germany

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    Town & Country by Crown Perfumery

    A wonderfully English rendition of green herbacity, Scarborough Fair with lavender taking the place (thankfully) of parsely. It's close to Penhaligon's Blenheim Bouquet, with a stronger emphasis on the bitter-green herbals and less citrus, it's austerity making it quite unique and excentric in the contemporary fragrance landscape. No florals, no sweets, no fruit (God forbid). I love it, but like Eau de Quinine from this house, it's an acquired taste that will suit nostalgic Anglophiles in particular. The quality of the materials is impeccable, it is worth noting.

    31st May, 2011

    Oh_Hedgehog's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Coromandel by Chanel

    Christopher Sheldrake's earlier Borneo 1834 (2005) was a dark chocolate and patchouli marvel of hungry brown shadows; his Coromandel instead pairs white chocolate and benzoin with patchouli and makes the fragrance shimmer with a mother of pearl effect that drifts peculiarly close to the taste of sherbet.

    Not as senseless as someone choosing white over dark chocolate, but I still can't imagine wearing Coromandel with Borneo 1834 purchasable somewhere in the world.

    31st May, 2011

    lipepimpol's avatar

    Brazil Brazil

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    Jacomo de Jacomo by Jacomo

    green, dark, cloves, lavender, large-scale
    I do not think aggressive, amber, moss and vanilla soothe the black knight
    obscure, interesting, confusing?
    want to feel that everyone feels this aggression
    but he only Demonstrate the top notes
    then ride to calm his horse, wearing his dark
    a quiet dark knight.

    31st May, 2011

    gabyvinki's avatar



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    L'Heure Bleue by Guerlain

    Yes you can love or hate it or do not like it. But there s one thing you simply CANNOT do:
    Denying that it IS a masterpiece, masterfully created by The Old great Perfumers of the world!!
    L'Heure Bleue is perfume art as good as it gets. If you are going through the whole range of the best selling mainstream perfumes (or nearly the whole) and thereafter you go through the whole range of the best selling niche perfumes I can assure you your nose is trained!:) And then you will realize that L'heure Bleue is a kind of its own. All the parts fit so well in together it is like a symphony that will stay with you the whole day after only one spritz or dap of the pure perfume. It is so gorgeous , words can really not do it justice. It will haunt you if you like it or not, it s that good! Finally, finally I have found my "holy gral" within the fragrance world...:) Thanks to the old masters of GUERLAIN

    31st May, 2011

    lipepimpol's avatar

    Brazil Brazil

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    Uomo? Moschino by Moschino

    this frag satisfy my soul
    intriguing evolution
    top notes - kumquat, cilantro, fresh, hot, metallic green and smooth at the same time
    I feel the floral and cinnamon balancing and checking charm
    identical to ending extreme bulgari, honestly my skin has no difference
    Not that this is bad, on the contrary, I admire BE, although not all this brightness in evolution.
    Moschino is rich and unpretentious
    cool and hot
    quiet and agile
    is the duality of smell
    top 10 without a doubt, the joker

    31st May, 2011

    rum's avatar

    Greece Greece

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    Lolita Lempicka Au Masculin by Lolita Lempicka

    Yuck!!

    Got this as a gift from a very special person in 2010, but I couldn't get to like it. Totally funky edge to this - bottle and designer brand, but I actually had to search for this fragrance online to see if it really was masculine.

    The scent was irritating to the nose - made me sneeze and caused the asthmatics in the house to say how "bad" it was. Very industrialised scent; not natural at all.

    Certainly wouldn't buy this.

    31st May, 2011

    robyogi's avatar

    United States United States

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    Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentrée by Chanel

    I wore this for years. I found it to be appropriate primarily for formal occasions. It reminds me very much of Tiffany for Men, but with added nutmeg. I'd call this an oriental, as the base is full of vanilla and, what to me smells like civet. It's loud, it lasts forever. It's too much of one-trick pony for me to love it, though. That, and I've come to not care much for wearing loud oriental fragrances. That said, I still have it in my collection and don't plan to sell it off because it just plain smells good.

    31st May, 2011

    subhuman85's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    A*Men Pure Havane by Thierry Mugler

    I should have known better than to get my hopes up for Pure Havane - cigar smoke is one of my favorite smells on the planet, and a mainstream brand like Mugler couldn't hope to satisfy my carcinogenic fragrance cravings. But I have to sheepishly admit it's rather nice for what it is, and a refreshing change of pace from the FRESHY FRESH FRESHNESS of this year's pre-summer releases. A whiff of tobacco and honey on a hot day never hurt anybody, and when it's cushioned on A*Men's familiar bed of creamy, patchoulified caramel, who can complain? Not worlds apart from Pure Malt, but an improvement nonetheless, being smokier, sultrier, and slightly more dignified. (I never got on board with Malt's candied take on cereal grains and - yeah, right - scotch whisky.)

    A nice effort. Now can we have Pure Coffee back?

    31st May, 2011

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Cuir Venenum 03 by Parfumerie Generale

    An original interpretation of leather. Cuir Venenum opens with a bizarre accord of leather and something else I can't exactly detect for an overall effect that brings to my mind of unripe Concord Grape. Bitter, somehow sour and aromatic. The leather note is emphasized in its acidic aspect and it is laid on a consistent myrrh base. I also get a slight dusty vibe throughout (as often in Guillame's creations).

    Despite they don't share many similiariteis Cuir Venenum often brings to my mind of another great scent of the same family: Helmut Lang Cuiron. They move in the same direction, where leather is clean, treated and brand new. Recommended.

    31st May, 2011

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Santal Noble by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

    If you're looking for a pretty fragrance, carefully avoid Santal Noble. Instead if you're into challenging, deep and compelling scents you could be amazed and satisfied by this one.

    It opens with a sweet coffee note immediately joined by sandalwood an incense. Then the sandalwood takes over showing its creamy/dry aspect. Bold and almost overwhelming for a couple of hours. If you're into sandalwood you won't be disappointed as you'll have plenty of it in this phase...Then it settles down and blends together with vetiver, incense (again) and a musky-amber for a truly fantastic drydown that's creamy, warm, quiet and very deep.

    Personally I think this is one of the best sandalwood available on the market yet it's surely not a fragrance for everybody. A masterpiece.

    31st May, 2011

    döfä91's avatar

    Finland Finland

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    Boss Spirit by Hugo Boss

    I used this first back in 1994 when i purchased both 100ML EDT and aftershave for a bargain price. I liked this fragrance a lot but later around a couple of years later moved on to use more sweet (gourmand) fragrances, and was so stupid that threw these 2 half-used bottles of Boss Spirit away! Sometimes around 1995 this was discontinued.

    I just re-discovered this sleeping jewel and managed to purchase an EDT bottle on eBay. I feel like heaven and use this nearly daily! It gets me back to the 1994 that was a great and very special year for me as i met my spouse back then.

    The smell is dry, crisp, quite linear, dark, heavy and masculine. If i were blond, i wouldn't use this. Somehow i just can't picture this on a blond haired person, this is a dark man's scent. Is easily overdozed, for me 3 sprays are enough: 1 spray to the chest, one to neck, one to the wrist. This is the only BOSS scent i like (unless Baldessarinis are counted). This is quite potent and because of the better-than-average sillage you'l definately be noticed when wearing this one. You surely will get compliments as well.

    31st May, 2011

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Secret Mélange by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

    This is one of the very few fragrances from MPG that I resolutely don't like. Spicy soapy orange, clove, spicy, cannelle spicy, soapy, orange, cannelle, cannelle, spicy orange orange cannelle spicy soapy orange, what??, cannelle...messy isn't it?. It definitely smells like bathrooms. Bizarre, in a bad way!

    31st May, 2011

    CoL's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Chinatown by Bond No. 9

    I cannot believe this is a unisex scent! It's very rare for me to really dislike a scent but this actually made me feel really weird all day. Me no likey one little bit! Tuberose and coconut and other sickly sweet vileness.

    31st May, 2011

    calnadur's avatar

    Switzerland Switzerland

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    XS pour Homme by Paco Rabanne

    I didnt have great expectations for this one and indeed..it's nothing mind blowing..

    The opening is a little too crisp for my liking and the direction this takes while moving toward drydown a little uncertain..

    Not too original, and not intriguing really, I was considering giving it a (generous) neutral just because it is not offensive to me and could be a safe buy for someone with unknown/undefined preferences...But then I thought..what do we need another fragrance without identity for..?

    31st May, 2011

    chet31's avatar

    United States United States

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    Bleecker Street by Bond No. 9

    The violet stands out for me, and some kind of fruit, which by process of elimination I assume must be the cassis. Don't like it enough to purchase, but if someone handed me a bottle, I would wear it occasionally to change things up.

    31st May, 2011

    chet31's avatar

    United States United States

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    Blu pour Homme by Bulgari

    Tested this alongside Issey Mayake L'Eau D'Issey PH to see which one I liked better, and on me, they were quite similar. I guess I therefore must give this a thumbs up to be consistent. However, for me, the D'Issey had more longetivity, and wins by a nose.

    31st May, 2011

    rhomboid's avatar



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    Antaeus by Chanel

    Absurd.

    I bought this on the strength of the reviews here. Whoops. Big mistake. After all those reviews, I was utterly unprepared with how poorly received it would be. Proves there is no accounting for taste.

    Whether you like this or don't is likely to depend on your age. If you're under the age of 40, forget it. My friends immediately pegged the scent as "old man", which is deadly. My girlfriend hates it. And no, it is not because it is heavy (there may be some truth to the assertion that Chanel has watered this down. Nobody has called it heavy, just "dated" -- if they're being polite).

    How a fragrance is received by someone has a lot to do with memories and associations, and probably a whole lot less to do with the components of the scent themselves. (And culture. Don't forget culture. I suppose I am not surprised this one is popular in the southern regions.)

    To all those reviewers who say they like this because it is different from the "sweet boy scents". The "sweet boy scents" are there for a reason: women like them. Antaeus has been a universal bomb with the women I've tried it with. And I wasn't born yesterday -- I'm 37.

    Times change. Tastes change. Not everything is worth hanging on to. In the end, it's just cologne.

    31st May, 2011

    Aredore's avatar

    United States United States

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    Stella by Stella McCartney

    Stella is triple-milled rose soap of the highest quality in a spray bottle. As such, it's hard to fault anyone for liking it, for who truly dislikes a clean smelling person? As a fragrance - or even a rose fragrance - it's weak. Stella is close-wearing and subtle, but like a mezzo-soprano whose notes are always slightly sharp, there is something shrill and timid about it. There is an ever-so-slight amber warmth in Stella, but as the other basenotes are musks of the detergent variety, it's addition serves only to differentiate it from generic dryer sheets. Stella is not particularly sophisticated, but she's trying really hard!

    31st May, 2011

    Larimar's avatar

    Austria Austria

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    Vol de Nuit by Guerlain

    Vol de Nuit is a monument in perfumery and there is a 'mystery' around this creation. In fact, it is not an 'easy' fragrance and one reason may well be that I perceive it both as chypré style and 'powdery oriental' (as jdt put it in this review) at the same time. This interplay and phases of different emphasis really is something I needed time to interpret for myself. I also think Vol de Nuit is a fragrance that is very prone to 'distraction' if there is still another fragrance faintly lingering on your skin. I have found the subtle interplay and transmission of chypre and oriental can be disturbed and Vol de Nuit sort of falls apart in nothing. What you want to experience when wearing the extrait (which is IMHO the only way to experience Vol de Nuit due to longevity and the perfumes' subtle facets) is exactly what sean-dt described in his beautiful review, when he states that a 'unbelievably' delicate aura seems to appear out of nowhere just when the perfume seems to fade.'
    Experiencing this is truly the magic of Vol de Nuit! It will always have a very very special place in my heart. It, both, comforts me and complements me by creating an aura of mystery and allure. At least, that's what I like to think...

    ADDITIONAL comparison vintage vs. current extrait (June 2011):
    The overall mood I think is more dramatic in the vintage, whereas the new is simply beautiful, if that makes sense. I also think the vintage jus demands your emotional involvement, whereas the new is again breathtakingly beautiful AND contemplative. The vintage has a spiciness that reminds me of the Parfum de Toilette of L’Heure Bleue. It is very French, very Guerlain and vintage (although mine here is only 10 years old, but that ensures the floral notes are well preserved as some claim Vol de Nuit does not age well.) smelling. I think that the vintage extrait of Vol de Nuit is even more the quintessential Guerlain to me than L’Heure Bleue. The new jus has a more pronounced floral heart (I like to think it is the jonquil absolute as core accord) with its edges rounded off with the help of the Guerlain vanilla and benzoin (?), which I absolutely adore. It is less spicy, less complex or is it complicated ?, less powdery and more fragile (I have found that it can sort of collapse into nothing on you when distracted by your skin chemistry – e.g. faint remainders of former fragrance) than the vintage. It also does not produce as much sillage as the vintage and is more 'unisex' to my perception making it clearly an amber-emphasized fragrance, in particular in the drydown.
    In the end, I think the new Vol de Nuit is a sort of "modernization" and I like it at least as much as the vintage. It is the best reformulation I can think of, but I could see the loss others might feel compared to the vintage, too.

    31st May, 2011 (Last Edited: 10th June, 2011)

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