Monsieur by Henry Jacques is a green smooth masculine blend of pine needles, benzoin and amber.
I cannot detect the other notes listed in the pyramid; for me this is a delicate green fougere. Not a strong fragrance but a quiet one; ideal for hot weather.
The longevity is average for a perfume oil.
I haven’t been writing about scent as of late because I’m swamped with other writing projects. Also, several new releases I’ve tried have failed to pull me away for long enough to put fingers to keyboard. I’m coming out of hibernation, as it were, to say a few words about Oudh Infini which has more than impressed me. I tried the Dusita line a few weeks ago and found all three to be accomplished, but Oudh Infini was the one most closely aligned to my tastes and it took a few wears for it to click. The very mention of “oud” in new releases warrants massive eye rolling from me these days so this scent had to work hard to win my favor. Long story short, it’s handsomely spun, performs immaculately, and sidesteps the cliché and redundancy of what is a hideously hackneyed genre.
It begins with a ripe, cheesy oud that’s immediately countered by a rose-driven bouquet. The oudh has none of the rubbery harshness of replacers; playing the antagonist it smells full-bodied and leathery without relying on extremes. The rose as protagonist is prismatic and glossy — brittle, moist, and faintly tangy with nothing jagged or thorny remaining. Throughout, both notes maintain their character with neither dominating nor submitting to the other’s authority. The tension between the two is the trick that keeps the scent from plummeting into cliché. And this tension is upheld for much of the scent’s life — an impressive feat as usually one of the notes will end up outshining the other. While it is absolutely a “barnyard” scent, it’s so well wrought that any anxiety over animalics should be soundly dismissed. The oud and the rose are foregrounded squarely, yet each is flanked by additional components so subtly blended you’d be hard pressed to name them. The base is a stage of creamy resins with a delicate leathery tone; its purpose: to scaffold and spotlight the main performance. The arrangement isn’t particularly complex, but the components used are rich, stressing the perfumer’s thoughtful use of space and pause. A lesser perfumer might have thrown in ill-conceived minor characters, but that would have diverted attention.
Oudh Infini is reading from a familiar script, but it’s one of the better versions of this style of perfume that I’ve smelled. Fans of the more audacious offerings from brands like Xerjoff should take note, but there’s a level of artisanal creativity at work here that’s absent in the corporately-driven productions. The sense of balance and proportion is what makes Oudh Infini a success. There’s a pricey ticket attached to this one — a fact that there’s no getting around — but I suspect that it’s the kind of scent that will lead to all kinds of creative rationalizing of purse strings if this style is your thing. You have been warned.
A nice opening that combines a hesperidic side with a mix of galbanum and labdanum - a pleasant dyad that soon is enhanced by a slightly green and herbal twist. Sage and hints of basil provide the herbal influx nicely.
Later in the drydown a floral shift sees the introduction of lavender, iris and gardenia, with a faint shadow of rose tones in the background. Further towards the base oakmoss is added to the mix, a fairly simple and somewhat attenuated and colourless mossy note that nonetheless infuses the whole with a certain crispy edge
Around that time the whole mix takes on the somewhat restrained sweetness of a somewhat creamy tonka impression, which over times turns increasingly powdery. This powderiness is fattened by styrax and benzoin to give is a richer and at times districtly leathery waxiness and quite a synthetic character.
I get soft sillage, adequate projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin.
In the absence of bergamot and a strong good natural oakmoss this is clearly not a high-quality typical chypre, but evidently a post-IFRA attempt at reconstructing one without really hitting the mark, although some of the cypre feel is recreated not too badly. The opening phase of this spring number is quite nice, as is the overall concept, but a certain thinness and at times nigh-generic impression prevents me from rating it higher. 2.75/5.
I am beginning to worry that some of my reviews have been deleted, as there have been several revisits this Summer to pages I would swear a blood oath on having reviewed. This one I recall writing up immediately after I bought Oak two or three years ago. In any event, the oddly named Oak is a smooth, creamy nutmeg and coffee Oriental which smells like an attempt to blend Rochas Man with vintage Obsession, and to that end it succeeds greatly. The top notes can almost be written off, as the citrus and aldehydes are too weak to really notice, being enveloped by the rather strong base. The sage is there, and the nutmeg, sandal, and musk together smell incredibly close to myrrh, which evokes the Obsession comparison. Oak is an amalgamous and straightforward scent which changes little during its surprisingly long span. It can become dull because of its linear nature, but if you like the idea of a bough of wood soaked in vanilla, coffee, and nutmeg then you ought to try this stuff. I think it's the most competent fragrance to come out of B&BW (that I have tried) and am glad to have my bottle.
This new Armani fragrance is like a sweeter, more floral and not as dry version of Armani Prive’s Oud Royal, with just a dash of Rose D’Arabie’s liquor like warmth. In fact, if not for the bottle, it could easily have fitted in to the Prive line of the gold capped ‘La Collection des Mille et une Nuits’.
The sweetness I’m detecting must originate from the pink pepper, but to my nose it appears as if both the tonka and a hint of saffron listed in the base notes are quite detectable at the opening. The floral heart of this is reminiscent of the original Eau de Nuit with the iris easily the stand out. The rose note is definitely there but more in the background than the iris. Oud, with the tonka and saffron keep this warm and oriental right through to the conclusion about 8 hours after first application. Both the bergamot and geranium were missing in action and I couldn't detect a trace of either.
As it’s an EDP concentration it performs as I would expect, giving of a decent (but not shouting) sillage and projection and it lasts a good 8 or more hours on my skin.
As yet another Westernised version of an oud, this is not an entirely original offering from Armani. It has more than a passing resemblance to nearly all of the recent spate of oud releases such as Icon Absolute, ADP Colonia Oud, Varvatos Oud, Polo Supreme Oud, etc. Still this is a nice addition to the Armani ‘Eau’ family of masculine marketed fragrances and as it’s a good quality scent that is approximately half the price of the Prive line, it’s also fairly good value for money in my opinion.
From one of those silly top-heavy bottles... I get a Bulgari Black type fragrance with a nice and subtle boozy leather / fruity tobacco note.
Classy. I'd be one of the first to admit that those silly bottles usually have silly prices to match. Silly is as silly does!
Extremely polarizing scent.
I think people will either love it or hate it. The opening is SO jarring, if I hadn't been in Neiman Marcus I'd have thrown my arms in the air & run screaming from the floor.
(I can be a drama queen.)
Fast forward an hour, give or take.
"What is that?"
"Why, tis I."
This is a schizo b*tch of a scent that dries down to very sexy skin with incredible longevity. The base notes MAKE this fragrance IMO.
Too bad the opening is such a beast.
Bottom line: DO NOT buy blind.
I'm sort of underwhelmed (lots of pre-hype)but on the other hand, pleased. Definitely from the fougere family, BC contains a very nice lavender accord containing lemon and a musky vanilla. That's about it for me though -- I'm afraid I can't perceive any discernible almond aroma (wish I could)which heliotropin should emit.
It's a 'steady eddie' uncomplicated type of fragrance (you will need to go niche for any different nowadays it seems)but it's a very pleasant and long lasting wear.
Not as innovative or clever as Rive Gauche and at double the price (for 75ml) it seems to be not a sensible investment. I'll be purchasing though -- on balance it's worth having both.
From the start the opening is diving into the rose that the title promises: a pleasant, lean, friendly rose that is a tad simple and stripped down; this rose is neither a rich rose, nor is it a complex representative of this species of olfactoric flower.
In the drydown there is a floral impression, with a light violet delivering the main component here. Additionally a light and somewhat innocuous hawthorn impression are present, which is rather flat and not very vivid - this is no Aubépine-Acacia.
The end is announced by a woodsy-musky mix that is soft, light and - plainly - not very interesting in itself, but on me the rose returns towards the end and now - surprisingly - has gained in colour and depth, with a greenish hint of rose leaves now present. Unfortunately, this final glow over the last hour is extremely close to my skin.
I get soft sillage, adequate projection and in total seven hours of longevity on my skin.
Looking at this creation as a whole, I find it a somewhat thin, tinny and generic spring blend, which, at times, overly evinces it's synthetic nature; but there are some redeeming characteristics present, especially the at time rather nice rose notes. 2.5/5.
I've been wearing this fragrance consistently since I acquired it and will likely finish this bottle before anything else that I have in my collection. This and Dry Clean are my favorites of the CDG line. What can you expect with Artek Standard? It is sharp, especially in the opening and you are immediately hit with a poignant lemon-y tea metallic accord with a cedar backbone. The saffron appears clean and a floral musk supports these quirky notes. Artek shares some characteristics with Santal 33 by Le Labo (both have that sharp woody backbone) but there is no sandalwood at all in this fragrance. I've layered this with CDG Synthetic Series 6: Dry Clean and some how they work wonderfully together. It is very clean and versatile. With respect to performance, you can spray this 10x without offending anyone yet it isn't a weak concentration either. The fragrance is weird but very attractive and easy to wear. Who is better at creating abstract/avante garde fragrances than Comme des Garcons? I really recommend this to any CDG fan....
24th August, 2016 (last edited: 25th August, 2016)
VCA has been churning out great fragrances since 1976 starting with First by J-C Ellena. I like what they do for many reasons
- Their price point. Great stuff can be had for $30 bucks
- They make good quality stuff. In fact all of their male colognes are top notch - Tsar, PH, MiP
- Their reformulations are pretty good
It is pity they do not get recognized and appreciated by Creed and BN9 loving generation. Well, good for us as we can have their elixirs for cheap.
Tsar is a great masculine fragrance. It is green and a bit spicy - in a Fougere style.
Safe for office and fun to wear. I have both vintage and current formulation and this one is good in both versions (just avoid the clear ribbed bottle vintage version).
One of the few where modern reformulation is almost as good as original.
Get it. For $24/100ml it will be a crime if you don't.
This Armani is what Bvlgari and Paul Smith have been trying to imitate all this time. It's a classic build and very straightforward without being boring. I sometimes wonder whether there is vetiver in it. This is essentially one of the scents trying to create a fresh escape route from the heavy-handed 80's just before the advent of Calone. Orangey scents seem to work well on me, so of course I like this one.
If the top notes of this scent lasted forever I would wear this all the time.
I have once sampled the current version of Tabac at a Perfumania and can't for the life of me remember any details (always a bad sign), but I recently acquired an old mini which boasts an opening accord so aldehydic I was nearly in beautiful shock. The blending makes distinction difficult ( this is the Stolberg/ West Germany version), but I seldom find scents with so much tonka/amber/vanilla which prove so mild and balanced. Tabac doesn't last too long, and the opening fifteen minutes are absolutely the best part for me, but I have to admit that this is one of the best budget scents out there.
I also now realize that Whiskey by Commodity was just an ill-fated attempt to recreate this classic.
The opening combines vetiver with a fruity-woodsy mix. The vetiver is clean, fairly thin, bright and not at all earthy or with a root-like undertone. The fruitiness is a bit of citrus, a touch of berries, with the woodsiness being quite generic.
Later in the drydown an ambery cinnamon develops with a slightly herbal undertone, with the co-operation of lavender and Jasmine providing a nitnifba more pleasant core impression that stays in the centre of this mix.
As far as the performace is concerned, I am getting moderate sillage, adequate projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin, and much longer on clothes.
All in all a mélange of various notes that are not really working well together and that appear lumped together like the chunky bits in a stew without any clear line of development. Very synthetic, and most notes are quite generic. The whole gives an impression of lacking substance, more a thin veneer than a composition displaying convincing character. Should the intention be to evoke the gorgeous Ottoman palace the title seems to allude to, then this aims fails to be achieved.
Neutral or thumbs down? A close call, but the pervasive colourlessness leads me towards a negative score. 1.75/5.
This fragrance has to be possibly the most satisfying one regarding the note of sandalwood that I have ever tried.
It starts citrusy, then piles of sandalwood emerge and take you on a beautiful sensory trip for several hours until the dry down arrives with a dry dusty patchouli.
Good longevity & projection.
I don't often think of sport fragrances as 'lovely,' but this really is. The bright, limey opening is delightful and the woody base smells more natural than I'm used to experiencing in this type of product. The white floral heart can come off as a little plasticky when sniffed up close but it's not really bad. All in all I think SdPR is a simple and fleeting but highly enjoyable thing.
When you want the soapy greenery of a classic giant like Nobile but without the smoky decadence and finely tailored formality, you need Paco! This is singing praise of rosemary and moss, and it's cool, clean, semi-sweet, and fairly airy. Before this 'casual wear' herbal donned the three-piece suit and heralded the 80's it was a carefree, uncluttered affair. Unfortunately it hasn't aged well after reformulations, and it is now just a pleasant echo on the wind in its current form.
This member of the Lacoste family suffers from the same affliction plaguing the rest of the line - pathetic longevity. In this case, however, it feels intentional; a sporty scent made to be fleeting and refreshing without sacrificing quality, and one which can be liberally reapplied without issue. The opening smells mostly of bergamot and lemon or grapefruit, with a disarmingly soft sage note rising up to bridge the citrus to the remarkably pleasant sandalwood base. The base itself smells like a decent sandalwood, but may actually be a collective of wood and tonka which simulates sandal very well. This is an ideal pick for a 'Summer scent,' and I am very glad Lacoste didn't feel the need to put Sport in the title.
While deeply, intimately familiar with the women's Guerlains, I am less so with the men's.
And perhaps partly for that reason, if compelled at gunpoint to guess if this were a Guerlain or a Goutal, I would have bet my life that it were a Goutal and now be dead! I have not smelled Les Nuits D'Hadrien in a while, but that's what this reminds me of, Goutal's singular take on citrus in Hadrien or Eau du Sud layered over some vanilla and amber and noticeable immortelle, not Guerlinade. It does have a particular silky smooth character that only Guerlain manages to get, so maybe Goutal as calibrated by Guerlain.
Lovely and versatile, though on me it doesn't read as 68 notes complex.
A new (and frankly well inspired in its range) "velvety" interpretation of the iconic Azzaro Pour Homme's aromatic/boise/fougere theme which is by now morphed in to something softly musky-soapy, syrupy, lusty, liquorous, suede-oriented, sweetly spicy, nutty and ambery. I get a classy-chic quite modern new version of the classic PH (the original fresh aromatic Azzaro Pour Homme and the "old" Intense version). Over the first aromatic-fougere somewhat classic opening (lingering around in effects throughtout by its aromatic influence) a central delicious phase of luxurious cognac captures the scene before the juice starting to decline in to something profoundely musky, nutty-ambery (vaguely conjuring the Ungaro III's final twist), silky-leathery and with a trademark spicy-woody-soapy chic spark (really elegant, modern and bold). This spiciness is quite luxurious, I detect something boozy-syrupy (a well appointed fleshy-boozy cinnamon) quite captivating and perfectly married with a classic kind of laundry aromatic background. Dry down is woody (I get a musky smooth vetiver a la DHI), balmy, vaguely leathery and mastered by a salty-sweet spicy-liquorous presence. A well appointed smooth-oriental Azzaro's reply to a nowadays mainstream theme (Valentino Uomo, Dior Homme Intense, Boss The Scent and further).
P.S: after a couple of hours the juice seems (woodier and) less complex and aromatic, namely less interesting (but still pleasant).
23rd August, 2016 (last edited: 25th August, 2016)
Artisan Acqua is a citric oceanic scent that reminds me strongly of those delicious preserved lemons used in Moroccan cooking—whole lemons are salted and left to pickle in jars and then used in savory dishes—often served hot—like the stews served in the traditional Tagine. Lemony, salty, savory and slightly decaying, as if the second law of thermodynamics had somehow been called into play. There is nothing fresh about these fermented lemons—they are soft, salty and mushy; I love to eat them, but do not really want to smell like them (capers fall into this category as well). Artisan Acqua has spices and herbs as well (sage, coriander and basil) which perhaps adds to the feeling that I have been feasting at Dar Maghreb or the Moun of Tunis. Moss and Fir Balsam are reportedly lurking in the basenotes, but I do not smell them. This is not a long-lasting scent; the caravan has packed up and moved on while you are still licking the Ktefa from your fingers and waiting for your mint tea to cool. I am generally a fan of John Varvatos fragrances—they are as good as any designer scents out there—but this one misses the boat for me—too savory, too gourmand, too quickly gone.
Although this is marketed Feminine, I find it quite wearable as a man. The Frankincense, Tarragon, Lemon interweave provides a slightly rough burning edge that appeals to my masculine heart.
The rose is presented as a soft petal floating on a warm, humid, ambered and cuminized musk.
Reminiscent of Eau D'Hermes but oh! so more luxuriously sensual.
Decent middle of the road scent that would work for the office or casual wear. Could be worn year round but isn't very strong or long lasting. Slightly spicy, some citrus and woods. For the price it would be ok to have in your collection.
I thought Courage (another one of theirs) was bad. This is worse. Top is OK with patch and some vanilla/caramel note but after 10 minute this just smells like bug spray.
It seems like this house is not even trying.
The only insolence seems to be the complete avoidance of the 'heart' notes. Opens up airy, spicy and green but then dives straight into the base, which I rather like as it consists of a very long lasting mossy wood with very little hint of Tonka [as listed] to my nose.
Smells like vanilla ice cream. This could be nice as in Dries Van Noten as that has a discernible base of wood, whereas in Sunshine Man the accord just sort of 'hangs there' and in time becomes a bit sickly.
Another fragrance ruined by an overload of Tonka.
Beautiful elegant presentation of Creamy Sandalwood. Neutral sugar,mild ethereal spice and hint of Leather. Low tannin.This is the most Masculine in the series. I'd take it over the Tam Dao. Did I say Ethereal. I'll still fight through the fizz of the Chanel Bois for my dose of Sandal though!
I had great experiences with original “Potion” and the other flanker named “Royal Black”. both solid fragrances with good quality and lots of positive things to mention. based on those two I had big hopes for this one too but ….
As far as the smell goes, it’s extremely pleasant and refined but it seems there are a few things missing and unfortunately both projection and longevity are huge let down in this fragrance that makes it very hard to recommend. in one hand you have a lovely smell and in the other hand you have below average performance on the skin. does it worth it? it’s your call!
The opening of this fragrance is a fresh zesty lemony scent surrounded by beautiful fresh and clean smell of lavender which is more toward it’s floral nature and there is a semi sweet, creamy and powdery smell right beside it to make scent more pleasant. it's fresh, clean, a little tart and also semi sweet, slightly powdery and floral at the same time. the clean aspect is very bright that smells like fresh laundry right out of the washing machine and the mellow smell of the lavender based fabric softener that spreads in the air!
In the mid scent stays almost the same but now a slightly bitter aromatic green smell shows up and gives a mature undertone to the scent. personally I believe it’s lavender again or maybe balsam fir that creates this aura. It’s still a fresh and clean smell though but with a bitter and kind of soft smoky aromatic feel mixed with it plus a little more sweetness.
In the base that bitter aromatic feel fades away while only smooth sweet powdery smell remains.
Projection is completely close to the skin even right after spraying it on your skin and longevity is usually 2 hours and if you get lucky 3 hours on the skin.
I bought this in an airport after the TSA had confiscated my perfume. What a big surprise...Lovely! Smells like a more modern Arpege, with more woodiness. Very elegant, and definitely NOT a unisex scent
This is one of the better ones from TF. I find his regular collection better than the Private Blends.
It is midway between Shalimar and the spicy modern ones like Spicebomb or The One. And more wearable too.
Basenoter apixiefan got it right. It is Shalimar Pour Homme.