Fragrance Reviews from July 2011

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    spice's avatar



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    Muscs Koublaï Khän by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Filthy rich. A super classy Jovan Musk, wearable this century.

    06th July, 2011 (Last Edited: 29th July, 2011)

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Acqua di Cuba by Santa Maria Novella

    A slightly spicy-honeyed tobacco. Rich, deep and masterfully crafted but at the same time very far from the typical heavyness of this kind of fragrances. The cigar note is pleasantly aromatic emphasizing the sweet/honeyed aspect, vanilla adds some extra sweetness without turning the scent into a cloying drydown. While I can't list Acqua di Cuba among my favourite from this house I can still recommend it to any sweet/tobacco lovers.

    06th July, 2011 (Last Edited: 05th August, 2011)

    spice's avatar



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    Sultan Safran / Safranier by Comptoir Sud Pacifique

    Tart saffron, a strong but light spicy opening and mids, the baton passed to pink rose, then oakmoss-fresh musk, patchouli lingering at the end. A perennial go-to, still novel even having been made in 1996.

    06th July, 2011 (Last Edited: 22nd August, 2011)

    Darvant's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Bulgari Man by Bulgari

    I use to appreciate the " Bvlgarians" but this one smells exactly as a plastic-metallic white musky fragrance in the same vein of the better appointed Salvatore Ferragamo Pour Homme and Costume National Homme. The starting is citrusy in a tart, synthetical and dissonant way. The link between violet and aquatic flowers blossom smells strangely artificial, as a sort of liquid detergent, and a bit plastic. This is the worst part of the juice which fortunately goes fastly to lose a part of its artificiality in order to become a soft milky and honeyed musky white concoction mild of woods and with the rooty undertone of vetiver. The note of amber seems to be dry ambergris in order to enhance the masculinity while keeping under control the mellifluence otherwise too high because of the honey and benzoin. In this phase the fragrance is more appreciable but lacks of any beat of originality flowing in the air without carring any additional valor to the worldwide parfumery. The longevity is in the average for this fragrance close to skin.

    06th July, 2011 (Last Edited: 13th December, 2011)

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Fat Electrician by Etat Libre d'Orange

    This is what I call a different take on vetiver. A solid interpretation that is able to emerge in this crowded territory. A fine mixture of opoponax and vetiver laying on a slightly sweet vanilla base and enriched by hints of incense and resinous elements throughout. Easy to wear yet distinctive, simple yet perfectly refined. A nice everyday's fragrance and one of the best releases in the Eldo's range. A valid option if you're looking for a modern masculine but you want to avoid the usual clean-laundered synthetic-citrus loaded with woody maber.

    06th July, 2011 (Last Edited: 27th March, 2012)

    barclaydetolly's avatar

    United States United States

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    A*Men / Angel Men by Thierry Mugler

    It's a tarry, acrid, sugary mess, devoid of any practical application. Stick to the flankers.

    06th July, 2011 (Last Edited: 30th May, 2012)

    silentrich's avatar

    United States United States

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    Bleecker Street by Bond No. 9

    I did a complete turn around on this fragrance. Initially I wrote it off as a 212 for men copy and didn't really appreciate it for what it was. It's very unique in it's notes and they way they're combined. A green fragrance that's classified as a gourmand. The bottle is perfect for this fragrance. It has a very grassy green violet opening with blueberries and herbal notes giving it a greenish/grape smell. I don't see it as a gourmand, but it does have a nice touch of fruity sweetness and a touch of cinnamon, blueberry, and vanilla. Doesn't sound like it would all fit together, but it does and makes for a fantastic spring/summer fragrance.

    06th July, 2011 (Last Edited: 04th June, 2012)

    Darvant's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Eternity for Men by Calvin Klein


    The melancholy Eternity, with its citrusy traditional (lavender) opening, its astringent floral-herbal romantic heart and its woody and masculine base, smells like a sort of cleaned by spices, slightly ozonic and sour traditional powerhouse, masculine, comforting  and clear. There is a certain level of bitterness very appealing and pungent that is the perfect shelter for the romanticism of a deep, almost tasty, neroli accord plus jasmine. The base is slightly aromatic and warm of woods and roots that retain the general drought of the juice and owns a different kind of woody-ambery mildness pleced on the side of the diverse citrusy-floral initial sweetness. These elements determine a touch of dissonance and complexity that give dignity to the juice. Many fragrances remind in their dry down the smell of Eternity and i think to Cool Water, Green Irish tweed, Joop Nightflight, Egoiste Platinum and many many others. The dry herbal and fruity-floral formula with woods and amber at base is a risky recipe cause a lot crossed by the noses all around and because of its common tart and floral monothematic depth. Eternity lacks indeed uniqueness, smells synthetic and is a bit generic (the formula is similar to that of many bath energetic foams or chip and common fragrances) although fortunately preserves a bit of changeability.

    07th July, 2011

    cello's avatar

    United States United States

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    Equistrius by Parfum d'Empire

    This falls into the fruity iris vein, not the rooty, powdery iris. It opens fairly sweet, but a very smooth iris notes soon emerges. It is paired with a hint of violet to sharpen it, but this still wears balanced and smooth, albeit with a lingering sweetness.
    Iris is prominent all the way through this one. There is an ambrette note also, which adds interest.
    It transitions slowly to a beautiful iris/sandalwood base that lasts.
    This is a fairly soft, pretty iris dominant fragrance, and it wears close to the skin. It is worth a try for iris lovers who do not want all the rooty, rustic smell that some iris fragrances offer. It is easily unisex, but the opening is on the sweet side.

    07th July, 2011

    JDBIII's avatar

    United States United States

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    Vetyver Uomo by Malizia

    I like this scent. Yes, it is inexpensive. Yes, it smells of vetiver. But, on my skin it becomes extremely smoky, and I don't mean incense from church, I mean drinks with the guys at the bar. I, myself, don't smoke, so this has been a bit of a conundrum for my friends who swear it smells like I've been sneaking puffs out back. If you like a smoky vetiver don't miss this one. I will still use it on occasion but don't plan on giving up my faves - Etro and Sycomore.

    07th July, 2011

    Kchild's avatar

    United States United States

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    Sloane Rose by Atelier Flou

    This is delightful! So very well made. Juicy vibrant just crushed rose petals blend w/a well behaved yet undeniable jasmine. I get an exquiste violet note in the mix as well. It's got just a suggestion of green that offsets this joyous, ripe, full of life rose floral to a T. This is incredibly uplifting and so .......true. It's as if the composition is utterly alive and these flowers are in different parts of your house wafting from their respective vases to create this euphoric scent. Thank goodness I got the big bottle!

    07th July, 2011

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Clean Shower Fresh by Clean

    I knew this was lily of the valley even before I read about the notes.
    It evokes the powerful scent of those delicate little flowers very well.
    It has a straightforward focus on that flower, with a little bit of green notes and some wood.
    The scent is pretty but not excessively sweet, and quite charming. Good longevity.

    07th July, 2011

    Kchild's avatar

    United States United States

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    Datura Noir by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Datura Noir~the princess of the tropical gourmand. She starts w/ a lot of white flower authority and then she becomes quite undisciplined in her actions.

    When you meet her you are dazzled by the osmanthus and tuberuese that come out to greet you. Stunning, heady, intoxicating. After getting to know each other a bit you start to notice she has a touch of vanille running down her chin. And then....wait a minute......is that almond on her lip? Indeed it is. She also has a thimble full of myrrhe in her hair. Everytime she moves something unexpected releases into the air!

    No she's not the queen~she doesn't have the tenacity. After you've discovered all of her secrets she gets a little tired and takes off for a nap.

    What you're left with is the combination of gourmand myrrhe w/a hint of white flowers in the background. Exotic white flowers teasing as they peak out from the veil of vanille amande.

    Datura Noir is an intimate knock out and one that I always set aside for summer. She needs to eminate off of bare skin rather than a thick sweater. She's much too sexy to be kept under wraps.

    07th July, 2011

    Don GIOVANNI's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Blu Mediterraneo Tuscan Cypress / Cipresso di Toscana by Acqua di Parma

    CIPRESSO DI TOSCANA a lovely fine fragrance,from the acqua di parma line love the lavender an the blend of exotic herbs an grapefruit an pine an cypress ,a scent that i enjoy all year around an love in the winter with a nice cashmere overcoat. A SOPHISTICATED fragrance that gets complements every single time by the ladys.

    07th July, 2011

    Don GIOVANNI's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Acqua di Genova Colonia by Acqua di Genova

    ACQUA DI GENOVA COLONIA a classic master piece,a sophisticated fragrance that holds a crown in italy,a perfect blend of citrus an lime ,lavender an soft rose,a scent fit for a KING, VILLORESI ACQUA DI PARMA COLONIA an ACQUA DI GENOVA all have a special place in my heart with villoresi slightly winning the 21st century crown with the help of this classic crown holders.

    07th July, 2011

    Blowe46's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Hamptons by Bond No. 9

    I honestly would have enjoyed this if it were a pure clone of SMW. However, it's a poor clone that seems to last longer.

    I honestly thought this smelled like bug spray -- call me a tyro -- that's how it came across.

    07th July, 2011

    rickbr's avatar

    Brazil Brazil

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    31 rue Cambon by Chanel

    31 Rue Cambon for me is like an exercise of which creative direction would Coco Chanel follow if she was still alive and if she was trying to shape the heritage of Chanel to modern tastes but without falling into fads. Like her apartment on Paris, Rue Cambon seems to have everything that a classical Chanel has: aldehydes, jasmine, iris, a soft powderiness. But it doesn`t go straight into vintage lands. Instead, it takes those aspects and marry them with a sweet resinous base that is very well doused. The aldehydes on the opening are the most interesting part to me. They seem to give a different aroma to the opening according the day your nose smell it. Sometimes you`ll detect a bright citric aura paired with the beginning of a flowery bouquet, and other days they lend you to an abstract fruity aroma. The iris and jasmine on the heart of this one gave the discreet powdery and flowery aura, with a warm, barely there, indolic touch. When it reaches to the base, you`re left with a delicious sweet creamy woody aroma, with the sweet part played in a serious way, avoiding gourmand intensities and matching perfectly the soft resinous aura that you seem to get sometimes when the scent warms on skin again. For me, Rue Cambon is not purely a Chypre fragrance, having parts that would be perfectly intepreted as floral or floral aldehidic too, and where everything seems to have a kinship so natural and common to find nowadays. Rue Cambon has a elegance that is totally out of tendencies, focusing on what really matters on a fragrance: quality.

    07th July, 2011

    rickbr's avatar

    Brazil Brazil

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    No. 18 by Chanel

    Don`t expect 18 to be an intense rose fragrance with a strong sillage. 18 seems to go more on the skinscent side of Les Exclusifs collection. Even if this one stays quite on skin, it`s not silly; the soft aroma is not a musky commonplace. Instead, it has a subtle rosy and fresh aroma. Never saw a quiet rose like this, with a green edge which is not sour and with a fruity aspect that doesn`t go to a sweet territory. There something slightly boozy at the background. The ambrette seed creates a lovely salty ambered area. 18 seems to stays always bright, fresh and subtle on skin, and it`s Chanel showing how to a minimalistic which is not boring or silly.

    07th July, 2011

    stinkywinky's avatar

    United States United States

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    Aramis by Aramis

    Based on the positive reviews here and elsewhere, I thought I'd like this. I didn't. It had this sour, vaguely unpleasant, "crazy old lady down the street" smell. Not terrible or anything, but not the image I myself am trying to convey.

    07th July, 2011

    rickbr's avatar

    Brazil Brazil

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    Sycomore (new) by Chanel

    A Vetiver focused fragrance done by Chanel. Sycomore makes me think of winter days, and something on its dry leafy woodiness it`s cozy in an expected way - like a dark green wool sweater. The vetiver here lacks the leathery/rubberized aspect that you sometimes see on vetiver fragrances, and seems to focus more on the dry, green inky part of it. The violet extends the leafy side of vetiver, while the tobacco and sandalwood creates a smoky and relaxed background that it`s there just to support the main aroma of vetiver. The pink pepper is the part that i only get sometimes, with a discreet sweetness wich usually go unnoticed on my skin. Sycomore is very minimalistic, dark, intense and longlasting, and one of the les exclusifs that i see beeing more appreciated by Man than Woman.

    07th July, 2011

    Kaern's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Yuzu Man by Caron

    Totally disagree with the previous reviewer. The yuzu flower has a gorgeous citrusy fragrance and Richard Fraysse has done a great job in representing it here for Caron. I have worn both Yuzu Fou and Yuzu ab Irato, but I think this sparkling version tops them both and is a lot cheaper.A lovely wood based drydown goes on forever. Terrific work.

    07th July, 2011

    Kaern's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Noël au Balcon by Etat Libre d'Orange

    Mmmmmmm -- spicy cookies . Love it up. Wears really well. One caveat -- it seems to have a floral musk as the drydown, which is unusual. Well it is ELdO.

    07th July, 2011

    Kaern's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Verveine / Lemon Verbena / Eau de Verveine / Verveine d'Eugène by Heeley

    Most 'verveine' fragrances usually plump for a solid lemon representation -- and little else unfortunately. It's there in the opening with Heeley's but is quickly joined by a whole bunch of stemones and berries. An astonishing first 30 minutes, which is almost matched by the woody musk drydown. I hummed and haahed between this, Hippie Rose and Sel Marin and Verveine won out -- it's a serious fragrance. No longevity issues for me either.

    07th July, 2011

    Darvant's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Animale Animale for Men by Animale Parfums


    I agree with some of the reviewers about the comparison between A*man and Animale Animale. The last is a more complex and less brash, sugary and outrageous kind of fragrance that lacks the tar temperament of the Mugler one, the metallic-icy, oversinthetical and bit watery discontinuity and the strong patchouli roaring note. Animale is indeed rounded, creamier, less pungent, with a more prominent changeability of spices, a mossy stableness, the chocolate-pineapple starting detectable notes and a final base of sandalwood, vanilla and resins with the undertone of tobacco. While underlining that these are not my current choices, personally i prefer A*Man for its boldness and borderline appeal ideal for the dirty game of the seduction.

    07th July, 2011

    Oh_Hedgehog's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    L'Eau Serge Lutens by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    L'Eau Serge Lutens wanders anemically between a number of humdrum smells – from freshly shampooed hair, to sachet towelettes, to the gooed-up detergent drawer of a washing machine. Its citric-ozonic-musky profile becomes sweeter and creamier over the course of its prolonged drydown and, while I don't think it's simplistic or lazily put-together, I get little joy from its awkward straddling of lemon cheesecake and fabric softener. If you want to smell clean, which Lutens himself claims to be the rationale behind L'Eau, you'd be better off spritzing the aptly-named Dirty, from Gorilla Perfume.

    07th July, 2011

    Postumo's avatar

    Spain Spain

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    Winter Woods by Sonoma Scent Studio

    I've worn it today from a sample. It's another hot spanish summer but i don't care.

    From the moment this juice touched my skin i knew i'd love it. My family loves it too. Warm and resinous woods, with some animalic and boozy touchs. Feels like it's imbued with some vanilla or patchouli, but they are not listed as notes.

    Great longevity, it's great to get whiffs of this frag as you walk around. Maybe not an everyday frag, but lovable and comfortable as few are. If this was released under a famous brand no doubt it would be a best seller.

    Will buy it soon.

    07th July, 2011

    Letitbenose's avatar

    France France

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    L'Essence de Cerutti by Cerruti

    I don't have the olfactive skills to descrbe this one. All I can say is L'Essence de Cerruti is a wonderful scent! Well made, well balanced, at the same time spicy and soft, a light Chypre. It's classy, élégant, without being too formal. I reveived my 100ml Bottle as a gift for my birthday and I'm happy this gem is not well-known!
    10 thumbs up! Great job Cerruti!

    07th July, 2011

    silentrich's avatar

    United States United States

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    Tabaróme Millésime by Creed

    I get a lot of ginger and citrus in the opening and tobacco and ambergris in the drydown. Can't detect the tea or vetiver, but it's not very pronounced in the bottle that I purchased. It's not my favorite Creed, but it's also one that I don't regret buying. I didn't and wouldn't pay anything near retail for it. If you looking to add it to your Creed collection I think it would be a good purchase. For those that are buying their first Creed I'd recommend looking at the more popular Creeds. Overall it's good, but not great.

    07th July, 2011

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Trèfle Pur by Atelier Cologne

    There are two aspects to my assessment: the scent itself (good) and the concept/name (misleading). Hence, I have a neutral vote.
    The scent itself is lovely: it is essentially a neroli-moss scent. The orange blossom notes are very well done. They convey orange zest, tree bark, floral notes... everything a person would want. There are mere hints of light herbs and greens. The scent deepens with spice and moss notes. The dry-down is mossy, gentle, classy, and very pleasing. The scent is not particularly original or distinctive, but it is very pleasant.
    However, I feel that the scent has a misleading name. Trefle means clover or shamrock in French. So when I see a scent titled, "Pure Clover" I expect a very green scent, with crunchy-leafy notes. Penhaligon's English Fern has moss and clover, and has that aspect. Diptyque's Eau de Lierre has an ivy note rather than clover but is the best example of the style of scent I feel this name implies. Particularly since Atelier has another orange blossom scent (Grand Neroli) I wonder why the theme is repeated so evidently here.
    In summary, the scent in and of itself is good; however, the name suggest something far greener than what I find.

    07th July, 2011 (Last Edited: 14th July, 2011)

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Volo AZ 686 by Profumum

    An horrifying, hair raising mix of gardenia and coconut laying on a vanilla base. Cloying, overwhelming and firmly unpleasant. Excessively sweet plastic flowers with candied coconut.

    "Volo AZ 686" in italian means "Alitalia Flight 686" and the name is supposed to recall, stating to the Profvmvm website, a flight to a tropical island ("images that blend with the scent from coconut palms and flowers of thousand colors, the swing of a hammock and a cocktail in my hand...the loudspeaker is calling the Volo Az 6862) but to me it's more evoking of Alitalia in 2007 when the airline company was just about to go bankrupt...a total disaster.

    07th July, 2011 (Last Edited: 05th August, 2011)

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