Fragrance Reviews from August 2011

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    highlandboy's avatar

    Scotland Scotland

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    Joop! Homme by Joop!

    This is the male equivalent of Poison – a fragrance with the power of a nuclear bomb. One light misting and you are set up for the day and the day after that; a full spray and strangers recoil from you; several sprays and the collateral damage is such that the emergency services need to wear full protective gear to retrieve the few survivors in your vicinity. Having said that, it is as addictive as opium (the drug not the perfume). Somehow it is a perfectly balanced accord of (probably cheap artificial) notes. It’s pink, it’s sweet and yet it really does appear to be a mélange of the ingredients it claims to contain: bergamot, honeysuckle, sandalwood, musk and vanilla are the ones that I seem able to detect.

    12 August, 2011

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Eva by Santa Maria Novella

    Earthy and fresh! A simple (almost simplicistic) and very easy to wear citrusy vetiver with peppery undertones. Unpretentious, pleasant and very natural yet not particularly interesting. Definitely unisex.

    Good if you don't know anything better.

    12 August, 2011

    anamari's avatar

    United States United States

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    Cabotine by Grès

    Received as a gift from a friend who knows my weakness for trying different perfumes.

    I found that upon spraying first, it is not pretty. It is a strong, in your face, soapy cleaning solution. I remembered reading that people really liked it so I waited it out. Am I glad I did! It works beautifully with my skin and the lingering scent keeps me going to smell my wrist. A lovely floral (tuberose?) vanilla scent which lasts and lasts.

    12 August, 2011

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Vetiver by Santa Maria Novella

    This minimalistic composition opens with a rough, dry and in your face blast of raw vetiver that made me immediately believe I had found my new holy grail. Unfortunately, after one hour or so, rosewood takes over surrounding the scent with a "perfumery" vibe that's definitely off-putting for my likes. Amazing opening, depressing drydown (I'm sorry but I'm hypersensitive to rosewood).

    12 August, 2011

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Cittá di Kyoto by Santa Maria Novella

    Città di Kyoto is a frustrating composition. One of those that doesn't contain fruits, it's simply fruity. It doesn't contain incense, it's simply incensey. It doesn't contain leather, it's just leathery. What about flowers? Some iris, somewhere...well, yeah...well...overall I'd say is fruity-leathery. Unremarkable.

    Sort of Daim Blond after bleaching.

    12 August, 2011

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Messe de Minuit by Etro

    Stating to the name of this fragrance I was expecting a dark and mysterious interpretation of the churchy frankincense theme but all I got was a (no more than) honest spicy citrus-patchouli-honey combo with some incense. The citrus is mainly orange that while blending with cinnamon and honey brings to mind of those bags of potpourrì you receive as a present from you neighbours at christmas. Not completely bad, but absolutely nowhere close to Avignon, Bois D'Encens or Zagorsk.

    12 August, 2011

    Diamondflame's avatar

    Singapore Singapore

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    Balsamo della Mecca/ Mecca Balsam by La Via del Profumo

    If I can sum this scent in one word it would be this: COMPLEX. It took me more than a few days of wearing before realizing I came nowhere close to unraveling its mysteries.

    On my skin BALSAMO DELLA MECCA plays a symphony comprising of three main accords: balsamic labdanum, dry frankincense and aromatic tobacco, interspersed with the nuanced sweetness of dried fruits. The rose note is subtle at best, wearing close to the skin. Overall I find the scent warm and inviting with a texture that is dry but not quite as dusty nor as Lutens-like syrupy as I had initially feared. I don't know if it's my skin but the tobacco is surprisingly tenacious.

    Despite its formidable charms, it failed to move me though I smiled a little when I caught a glimpse of a cleverly hidden tuberose. Perhaps I have simply grown accustomed to the composer's use of labdanum and tobacco as a central axis ( try Grezzo, Gringo, Don Corleone & Tabac). I also suspect some of the more glowing reviews could have been influenced at least in part by its rather exotic name and the association it carries with the annual Muslim pilgrimage to the holy city of Mecca. But it matters not. For what it's worth, I think this release is nothing short of 'stellar'.

    12 August, 2011

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Earthtones #1 - Dark Earth by Neil Morris Fragrances

    This scent is meant to suggest the transition from winter to spring, and the potential of fresh soil to yield life. I find that it does indeed exactly convey an impression of freshly-cut, rich, loamy soil. And I mean EXACTLY. Now, is that necessarily a good thing? Debatable. Demeter and CB I Hate Perfume do the same thing, presenting rather straightforward renditions of a single concept or moment in time. Do I like the smell of rich soil? Yes. Do I want to smell like that all day? No.
    Aside from the quirky and distinctive earth smell, I also get somewhat odd and fleeting notes of sweet dark chocolate. There is some sort of green note, as promised. The scent starts somewhat sweet and quickly gets quite sweet. It also gets heavy, powerful, musky, and tiresome for anyone who doesn’t dote on sweetie-pie scents. Eventually I had to wash it off.

    12 August, 2011

    miss mills's avatar

    New Zealand New Zealand

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    1881 pour Femme by Cerruti

    Oh Lordy, how I love this one - I wear it to work a lot but it works just as well (for me) in the evening. Must be the violet/freesia/sandlewood/musk combo that just does it for me. To me, 1881 is strong but subtle if that makes any sense, it has a very defined personality, one that doesn't need to yell to be heard - and won't be pushed around, either. One to two sprays is enough on me, usually behind the ears which warms it up nicely and leaves a soft trail. A beautiful, underrated classic in my humble opinion, sexy!

    12 August, 2011

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    A*Men Pure Malt by Thierry Mugler

    I've to be honest, while Pure Malt smells good I still don't get all the fuss about it.
    A toned down A*Men "enriched" by a slight "Malt" note during the first hour. The rest is the usual caramel-chocolate-patchouli combo smelled in the original version.

    Now, after 13 years, what's the point in launching a flanker that is definitely too similar to the original except tapping us all for money?

    12 August, 2011

    kpointer101's avatar

    United States United States

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    Brooklyn by Bond No. 9

    I don't find this feminine at all. It's about as masuline as they come, at least to my nose.

    12 August, 2011

    dsg's avatar



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    No. 19 by Chanel

    I have been using this perfume since it was first launched, last week I bought a new bottle of edp, is this the same product, I feel at a loss, I know it has changed over the years but this is nothing like my last bottle.... help

    12 August, 2011

    Harvitz81's avatar



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    Nombril Immense by Etat Libre d'Orange

    A very sweet opening that persists for about an hour with a mix of black pepper. The patchouli slowly takes over and dominates throughout the rest of the notes with some opoponax peaking through. I set this one aside for awhile to test as the thought of a nasty naval repelled me, but overall it is not bad and not vile ala some of their other offerings. Nothing truly unique here though.

    12 August, 2011

    jimmysmellworld's avatar



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    Paul Smith for Men by Paul Smith

    Doesn't do anything for me, very green and slightly synthetic and also very forgettable, yet I can see this making a good (and very cheap) summer day time fragrance. Very easy to wear but not very exciting.

    12 August, 2011

    jimmysmellworld's avatar



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    Encre Noire by Lalique

    There is nothing I can really add apart from encouraging anyone who is interested in fragrances to purchase this masterpiece. This dark, earthy potion really puts you in some enchanted woods next to some glowing embers of a dying fire being extinguished by the morning dew on the forest floor. Just like a beautiful piece of music, this frag can transport you somewhere else. This is a fantastic fragrance to wear during the day, its not as harsh as your first impression will suggest to the extent that (on me) its dries down close to the skin with a slightly sweet, smokey liquorice smell that makes a pleasant and much needed departure from the more floral or vanilla based fragrances I tend to reach for.

    12 August, 2011

    peisistratos's avatar

    Greece Greece

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    Grey Flannel by Geoffrey Beene

    It's great flavor. singles. Few fragrances are so characteristic.
    History!

    12 August, 2011 (Last Edited: 14 August, 2011)

    Balvon's avatar

    Lithuania Lithuania

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    Bois Blonds by Atelier Cologne

    Very nce citrus + vetyver. I like it.

    12 August, 2011 (Last Edited: 07 September, 2011)

    Jermel's avatar

    United States United States

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    Philosykos by Diptyque

    This is by far the most accurate fig based fragrance. It smells like the entire fig tree I had when I was growing up. It is the sweet, dewy, smell of the fig tree just after a heavy rain coupled with the smell of biting into a juicy, and ripe fig. An amazing scent for any season except winter.

    12 August, 2011 (Last Edited: 20th October, 2011)

    drseid's avatar

    United States United States

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    Extract of West Indian Limes by Geo F Trumper

    Superb pure lime fragrance that is extremely refreshing. There really is not much to it; just an absolutely fabulous smelling pure lime scent that hits you immediately when applied and then the scent is gone. I normally would give a thumbs down or sideways due to the extremely low longevity (30 minutes max on my skin no matter how much I apply), but the scent is so good, I have to give it a thumbs up. This is great as a scent to wake you up after a nice old fashioned shave (preferably with Trumpers' own excellent Limes shave cream). The scent gets 4.5 out of 5 stars, but longevity should be noted as 1 out of 5.

    12 August, 2011 (Last Edited: 02 June, 2012)

    Darvant's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Fioriscuri by L'Erbolario

    This one smells like a composition from Crabtree & Evelyn. A shadowy sophisticated bouquet of flowers with a sort of mossy and bit ambery final development. The composition is a bit retro, Victorian and melancholy because of the influence of rose, violet and hyacinth. The last is deep and succeeding.  I smell some bilberries in composition but may be is the effect of the plenty of floral notes combined all together plus the spices. The note of iris blows out a right level of misty sophistication while some dark spices enhance the mystical effect of the juice that (despite its soapiness) smells a bit like a sort of floral-fruity dark tea. Really not bad.

    12 August, 2011 (Last Edited: 26 August, 2012)

    Sunsetspawn's avatar

    United States United States

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    Cozé 02 by Parfumerie Generale

    I can't believe that I have to be one of two people to rain on this parade, but here goes.

    Coze opens with coffee, chocolate, vanilla, wood, spice, patchouli, and hemp all rolled into a delicious scent. Oh and it smells so natural too; I just adored the opening. I was prepared for a purchase less than an hour in.

    Of course Coze quickly ruined my party. A notorious note from Tom Ford's Tuscan Leather emerged. This note made me wanna stir the sauce, flee from helicopters, and bring guns to Jimmy's that were supposed to fit the silencers that he had. If only Karen had been around during the creation of Coze that awful note would've been flushed down the toilet because "they were gonna find it."

    Anyway, Scorsese references aside, this awful note arises about two hours in, and persists for about three hours. After that it backs off and mixes with the other notes to create, once again, an interesting and pleasant experience. Unfortunately that does not and CAN NOT make up for hours 2-5 being a nasally abrasive chore. If I never smell this again as long as I live it will be too soon, same goes for Tom Ford's Tuscan Leather.

    13 August, 2011

    Cerel9's avatar



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    Tiffany for Men by Tiffany

    To those who want a simple explanation of what this smells like, take vegetables, mix them with sugar and vanilla, and add a tiny bit of mint and spices and you get this. It's basically candied vegetables. It's mildly soapy, although not super soapy at all. It starts off like an in your face 70s-80s powerhouse, but that only lasts for 30 seconds and then it turns into a pleasant scent. One of the most stark transitions I've ever seen in a fragrance. You could definitely wear this to work without any problems. Also, it's easily a unisex scent.

    13 August, 2011

    AmateurFragMan's avatar

    United States United States

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    Le Mâle by Jean Paul Gaultier

    Mint and vanilla. And something else that I haven't learned how to distinguish yet. That's the opening. It all dances into a fine powdery mist of a scent that is both as fluffy as a cloud and as biting as a wet towel barely grazing the tip end of your skin as it's snapped fiercely in your direction.

    After a while the fragrance tends to calm down into the orange blossom mid notes, while the vanilla, which is always hanging around the entire time the fragrance is on your skin, continues to kind of glow like an aura. I can tell that the cinnamon is there, but it's very light. Not at all like in Halston Z-14, where the cinnamon seems to ride the vetiver like it's a wild horse.

    The sandalwood seems to be a bit different in this than it is in another fragrance I have that has the note. There is supposedly sandalwood in Nautica's Island Voyage, which I've worn quite a bit this summer, and though it smells nice and pleasant it seems a little out of place. That's not the case with this. Sandalwood seems to have more of a "soft" kind of canvas to my nose (what I'm thinking is sandalwood, that is), which suits this fragrance perfectly. That's what the majority of this fragrance turns into. A soft, sweet, minty orange blossom & vanilla pillow.

    I don't wear this often, especially in the summer, just because of how strong it is. And if you're a guy who doesn't like sweet, candy-like fragrances then stay the heck away from this one. You almost certainly won't like it. But I love this stuff. For what it is it lasts a long time. If you try it and you like it you're probably going to be liking it most of the day, if not all day.

    13 August, 2011

    oOCherylOo's avatar

    United States United States

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    Tigress by Fragrances of France

    Ah Tigress! I got a bottle of this for my 12th birthday, May 1, 1968. Exotic, mysterious, powerful - it was heady stuff for girl that age. To me Tigress embodies that time of raging hormones. Just the name of it sent a surge of warmth and eagerness through me. When I put it on I thought I could conquer the world. I used up that first bottle in no time and was drawn into the world of fragrance when I set out on my bike, babysitting money in hand,in pursuit of another bottle.

    13 August, 2011

    Trauerkraut's avatar

    Netherlands Netherlands

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    Kenzoair by Kenzo

    To me Kenzo Air smells a lot like Eau de Rochas pour Homme: they both share the same myrrh-licquorice-like atmosphere. Very nice!

    13 August, 2011

    Mario-K's avatar

    Poland Poland

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    Kenzo pour Homme by Kenzo

    The best fresh scent I ever had. Over 20 years on the market, and I still can't find anything better than this. It's like a sunny beach and clear oceanic water around. Longevity and sillage really impressive. Almost all new scent are synthetic comparing to Kenzo PH. Love it... This scent and Lanvin Homme Sport are on the my top.

    13 August, 2011

    Trauerkraut's avatar

    Netherlands Netherlands

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    Apparition Homme Intense by Ungaro

    I bought this one blind...stupid me! This is by far the worst smelling-experience in my life: there is really nothing to like in this bitter beast...simply horrible!

    13 August, 2011

    Jenniferkg8's avatar

    United States United States

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    White Flowers by Creed

    I love this fragrance from the top notes to the dry down. It is very feminine and beautiful. My only concern is that it fades quickly.

    13 August, 2011

    Redbeard's avatar

    United States United States

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    Aramis by Aramis

    A big, bold classic which, oddly enough, doesn't smell very strong right out of my little $3 splash bottle. At first you'd think it was just another standard 70s Monsieur Musk / Coty Musk type, but it soon proves to be woodier and spicier, with leather. The later top notes hold an intriguing contradiction: the sharpness of one of the spices stands firmly over some surprisingly strong but gentle florals underneath. This use of significant "feminine" florals in a men's wood scent reminds me of Bois du Portugal, even though BdP uses a more jasminey mix. Ultimately, Aramis becomes what I'd call a soapy floral leather scent with a moderate amount of spiced wood, the musk having mostly dissipated.

    I really like the scent, and I like the firm and professional, yet honest and human, way that it comes across on the middle-aged businessmen who seem to be its most frequent users. Because my little bottle has a fairly wide mouth, however, I can't control the application with the kind of precision I'd like for such a concentrated formula. Because of this, I'm hesitant to put any on for days at the office, even with the lightest dose I can manage. I suspect I'll be giving my little bottle away soon, but some day I'll get a bottle of the aftershave to see how it stacks up strength-wise. Still, it's absolutely a must-try for anyone interested in soapy leather; the smoothness of the blending is excellent.

    13 August, 2011

    sherapop's avatar

    United States United States

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    Badgley Mischka by Badgley Mischka

    A *masterpiece*? BADGLEY MISCHKA?

    Clearly I'm missing something. Sure it smells nice enough, but there's no no cause for olfactory ecstasy in this genteel ANGEL derivative. (Isn't that actually a contradiction in terms?) To my nose, this composition is a essentially a weak solution of the ANGEL base with some stewed peaches (no extra sugar added, thankfully) thrown into the mix. In fact, I'd go so far as to say that BADGLEY MISCHKA might have been one of the Angel of Stars, "Angel La Pêche,” well, except that it is way too weak, so they'd have to bottle the extrait as the edp (which is in any case what Thierry Mugler appears to have done with all of the ANGEL namesake flankers—that's why a lifetime supply can be found in those apparently small .8oz bottles!).

    I disagree with the categorization of BADGLEY MISCHKA as a fruity chypre. When I think “fruity chypre,” I think YVRESSE or DECI DELA or FEMME ROCHAS or MITSOUKO or BRYANT PARK. Patchouli alone does not a chypre make, IMNSHO. In my perfume book, chypre is an honorific term denoting a texture and depth entirely absent from BADGLEY MISCHKA.

    Nor is BADGLEY MISCHKA a fruity-floral perfume, as Luca Turin's wife maintains—she claims in her review of FLEURS DE NUIT that BADGLEY MISCHKA “unexpectedly perfected the much-maligned fruity-floral genre.” Say what? Since when is patchouli a flower? Clearly the authors of “The Guide” are banking—and I mean that, I really do—on the fact that most of their readers are utter ignoramuses. But I digress...

    Although the opening of BADGLEY MISCHKA is an attention grabber, it is short-lived, ceding nearly immediately to a polite, very light oriental with middling longevity. Because it has been the object of a serious “mission civilisatrice,” BADGLEY MISCHKA will not remind many of ANGEL, I realize. Perhaps aesthetically it would be better compared to FERRE edp, except that the latter is a much more beautiful perfume, with a unique and distinctive identity, rather than being simply another distant relative to a famous perfume. (okay, it is related to IRIS POUDRE, by the same perfumer, but it's still unique...). In FERRE edp, fruit is skillfully deployed to complement iris. In BADGLEY MISCHKA, the fruit is just trying to break through, even to be discernible amidst the dominant, albeit dilute, ANGELesque base.

    Happily, the bottle really is a work of art.

    13 August, 2011 (Last Edited: 14 August, 2011)

    Showing 331 to 360 of 966.