Perfume Reviews

Latest Perfume Reviews

Total Reviews: 143895

New-York by Nicolaï

Stardate 20180523:

I wonder who started this style of masculine. Or is it just a result of male fragrance evolution.

The farthest I can get is Bois de Portugal in 1987. Pierre Bourdon took the Old Spice structure and dandified it. Polge refined it further in Tiffany for men and more so in Chanel PM Concentree. I think Patricia took it a bit too far. What she made was too light for this style.

Guerlain fixed this problem with Heritage and gave us what is the best in this genre.

In any case, a great fragrance.
23rd May, 2018

Shocking by Elsa Schiaparelli

Stardate 20180523:

A classical floral aldehyde with animalics and rot.
There is a splash of oriental in it too. Something akin to EAOS.
A nice composition.

23rd May, 2018

Chai by Baruti

Tea for Two, Dzing! and Jungle Elephant orgy. If you like those scents you have to check this out. The opening is spicy, and with a sharp black tea note as well as hay. Then it settles down a bit more, as if you added a ton of cream to it all. It smoothes out quite nicely.
23rd May, 2018
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Invictus Aqua by Paco Rabanne

This is a very bold high seas typhoon force aquatic scent. The bitter green citrus opening washes into an off centered violet dark green then sprays outward into turquoise and lightning charged ozonic air. One of the aquatic characteristics of this scent derives from how expansive the fragrance is. It projects like an electrified burst into crisp ocean storm vapor. While clearly aquatic, Invictus Aqua holds hints of past great violet fragrances, but seen through an aquatic oceanic aesthetic. I like the work on this scent and prefer it over the other versions of Invictus, but it is a little too bold and assertive for me to pull off. It is nice bold statement.
23rd May, 2018

This Is Not A Blue Bottle by Histoires de Parfums

I am not a fan of screechy woody ambers by any stretch of imagination and This Is Not A Blue Bottle seems to be loaded with the stuff. Fortunately my first encounter with it began last year with a modest dab from a sample because anything more than a single spray is likely to bring me back to the dentist office for a root canal.

Today I wore a single spray to the chest under my shirt. Such a restrained approach to wearing paid dividends. It kept a leash on the screechy base and allowed the rest of the composition to shine. From the electric, almost ozonic orange-laced aldehydes at the top to the warm ambery glow of honeyed musk in the heart. It might not have worked out for some but for me, it did. Beautifully.

I can’t deny the synthetic signature of This Is Not A Blue Bottle is such a departure from the house’ typically richer baroque style but it is clearly intentional and somehow IMO they made it work. The KEY to unlocking its magic is to wear it sparingly.

This Is Not A Weapon of Nose Destruction but it comes close. The power on tap is unbelievable. A single shot to the solar plexus announces my (fragrant) presence with the subtlety of a sports commentator. I dare not attempt it but I believe 3-4 sprays will be the olfactory equivalent of an air raid siren. Joop! Homme has finally met his match.

Olfactorywise, this rates a Neutral from me. It smells like a good designer and reminds me somewhat of Cartier L’Envol. But I appreciate Histoires de Parfums’ audacity to take a cheeky piss on the reigning designer woody amber trend with this irreverent release. That’s why I’m giving this a ‘thumbs up’.

23rd May, 2018

Santal Cardamome by Fragonard

A little spicy and smells like Rose 31 to me. Leans more feminine but still smells good when I wear it, doesn't put me off.

Notes don't look the same but smells like a less dirty Rose 31. That's just my take.

Longevity and projection are below average.
23rd May, 2018

Hearts & Daggers for Men by Ed Hardy [Christian Audigier]

"Second Wave" designer aquatics of the 2000's played a different game than the original breed of the 90's begat of Cool Water (1988). Hearts and Daggers for Men (2009) is one such aquatic, and like many in this class, attempt to rebound from the harsh, overzealous youth-targeting of ozonics but still maintain a fun vibe by having something other than florals and "ocean/beach/fresh water smell" in them. Pumped to the gill with impressionistic synthetic accords meant to reminisce on the subject they're expressing (a nod to Calvin Klein and their "Kleinisms" as I call them), most aquatics from this period smell like aquatic + gimmick, at least until Bleu de Chanel (2010) ushered in the age of ambroxen. Ed Hardy was a brand heavily supported by the late Christian Audigier (of Von Dutch fame) at the time, launching a dozen failed boutiques and trying to make tattoo culture seem "haute bourgeois" by targeting well-to-do folks and celebs. Well, it didn't work, and after the real Don "Ed" Hardy reclaimed control, everything was taken downmarket to mid-level, while the fragrances stayed with Audigier until his death in 2015. Now EA Fragrances controls these for Mr. Hardy, but nary can a difference between Audigier and EA formulas be detected. Hearts and Daggers for Men took the aquatic direction because the previous two scents were an oriental and ozonic respectively, composed by Olivier Gillotin, who also returned for this one, and not as successful as desired. The main gist of Hearts and Daggers for Men is fusing an aquatic with common cocktail accords, maybe to make it club-friendly, but ultimately to make it really loud compared to others in it's class.

Hearts and Daggers for Men continues the trend of Ed Hardy, delivering respectable sillage and longevity to modern fragrance genres that typically lack it, and for that I take off my hat to the brand, but Hearts and Daggers for Men just doesn't feel as focused as it's predecessors. The scent opens with pear, basil, pepper, adding in a "martini accord" which I can only guess is the scent of the herbal melange used in gin, because that's what it resembles. The martini variant must be a dirty martini, because the saltiness of olive is also here. The salt note coming from olive rather than oceanic brine is rather novel, but it mixes strangely with the pear note, confusing my pallette into thinking is this person a salty cocktail fan, or a fruity drink aficionado? The middle of papaya and rosemary continues the sweet fruit and savory herb mish-mash, reminding me of the fruit salsas sometimes found in the gourmet section of commerical grocery supermarkets. It's not really an association I like. The whole thing feels like an attempt at a gourmand aquatic, which is fairly original, and again shows Oliver Gillotin as a risk taker, but I'm begining to think he takes needless risks with half-baked ideas that any other perfumer would laugh off. The base is the synthetic approximation of suede, sandalwood, musk, patchouli, and more exotica in the form of katsura wood. It's the best part of the scent once the fruit salad and $5 cocktail happy hour subsides. All told, this starts out bizarrely fruity, salty, and aromatic simultaneously, then settles into more fruit and the olive salt keeping the sweetness in check, before woods, patchouli laundry musk, and minimal suede warm this up so it projects. You won't smell like anybody else wearing an aquatic, but you won't smell particularly attractive either. It's salt/sweet dichotomy incidentally give it a modern sweaty sports vibe, adding some versatility, but there's nothing remotely refined or classy about it.

I like this scent, I really do. It's quirky and strange, daring and drys down to an aquatic freshness that is miles away from any Nautica or CK flanker, but from an objective point of view I can't give this a thumbs up. The wearer just has to withstand a barrage of befuddled fruit cocktails and herbs from a bartender that's been sampling his own product too much before the scent settles into something likeable. People don't usually buy a fragrance just for it's dry down, but on a hot day outside, smelling this over baked concrete and sweat sure is appreciated. I can see why this sells well, as the mainstream fragrance user loves a good gimmick, and guys all over who already love Ed Hardy apparel and the everyman swagger it represents probably foam at the mouth over the prospect of smelling like they "pre-gamed" a few Mike's Hard Lemonade bottles before hitting the club to pound overpriced well drinks and dance with somebody they're already undressing in their head. That's not me however, and for a truly remarkable Ed Hardy masculine, I'm going to stick with the previous year's Love and Luck for Men (2008). This is surely interesting, and quite serviceable for summer use, but that's the extent of it. It's a really cool bottle like most Ed Hardy scents, and is flat rather than cylindrical like the previous two, but still has a huge slip-over cap, which I'm just a sucker for. I'll catalog this under "novelty conversation piece" and leave it at that.
22nd May, 2018

1725 Casanova by Histoires de Parfums

This is striking me as harsh, maybe from the licorice, star anise, and/or the almond. There are some competing notes in this that I like (lavender, sandalwood, vanilla, amber), but they're in the background behind the harshness.

I had been looking forward to trying this, but it's a letdown, more challenging than wearable.
22nd May, 2018

1828 Jules Verne by Histoires de Parfums

I like this fairly well: it's nice and inoffensive, although maybe not very exciting. It's subtle and restrained (even elusive, as described below). During the opening, I can not get past the association with a chewing gum or bubble gum, a nice, agreeable gum, and that's not all I smell - there are more notes behind that - but the gum association is strong. At the same time, it's a natural-smelling fragrance, and easily wearable, completely polite and appropriate for any setting: office work, an interview, Thanksgiving dinner, a Christmas party.

It's listed (marketed) as masculine, and the pepper note helps make it more masculine, but I would have described it as unisex leaning feminine - it's so soft and round. It definitely strikes me as more feminine than masculine. I would like this on a woman.

So many fragrances use a cedar note that smells harsh and modern (trendy), but this lists cedar, and smells slightly woody, without a hint of chemical nightmare.

The incense is this case in frankincense rather than nag champa, and frankincense starts to dominate more as it develops, as frankincense typically (always?) does. Combined with how soft and round this is, and how agreeable the wood note is, the frankincense makes this a great scent for winter holidays.
22nd May, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Alexis Dadier by IFF

The smell was a child
Who refused to use base ten
For eighty-one's sake.

I saw its beauty
The part with the burning hemp
In a waking dream

The wooden clock face
Shaped like that of a bison
With dozens of eyes

All at the bottom
Held by counting's gravity
Numbering the time

As eyes disappeared
The clock told me without words
It's time to wake up.
22nd May, 2018

Dune by Christian Dior

From a vintage sample... Some aldehydes on top. Not too much. A touch of greenish-floral with some wood. The middle seemed dark and moody with sort of a waxy flower smell - jasmine, ylang, and rose were almost dirty; damp, like after a rain. Lovely base where I smell sandalwood, amber, a touch of patchouli, and an oakmoss-y accord. Dune is a safe fragrance; only a tiny bit daring.
22nd May, 2018

Woody Perfecto / 107 by Parle Moi de Parfum

First sniff had me going " That's the Accord of Guerlain's Les Déserts d'Orient - Songe d'un Bois d'Été.
This stays clean and no Cuminned Honeyed filthiness appears. The top edge of Oudy Comet-ness takes over and the scent remains linear and polite to the end.
22nd May, 2018

This Is Not A Blue Bottle by Histoires de Parfums

I could almost give this a neutral - maybe I'm feeling so let down because I like this house, but this is an annoying, synthetic and terribly modern smelling perfume, especially given the name of the house. Modern history, I guess.

The base is a typical, generic synthetic woody amber, and it's almost all I can smell from the opening. It's such a dominating smell, I get too discouraged to even think much about the other notes, and the way their literature describes them (electric orange, metallic geranium) is more telling than the listing here.
22nd May, 2018
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Sauvage Very Cool Spray by Christian Dior

Same dry down scent as Sauvage but the top notes have a tart citrus that some describe as grapefruit. Dior says they developed a new variety of bergamot that is unique and distinctive - smells like a grapefruit version of bergamot at the opening. The Very Cool Spray bottle is powered by compressed oxygen in a newly developed spray mechanism - works great. This scent does smell fresher and more spring and summer appropriate and I think it is much easier version for me to pull off. Sauvage Very Cool loses that chemically heavy dihydromyrcenol and basil heaviness and goes more with a grapefruit basil and ambroxan structure that smells a little thinner but more expansive. Much better for me. I like to spray this on back of neck and shoulders so the aroma doesn't billow up into my face but surrounds and follows with a cloud of silage. Thumbs way up!
22nd May, 2018

Love and Luck for Men by Ed Hardy [Christian Audigier]

The late Christian Audigier did many things for the fashion world, including bringing us Von Dutch, but his latest and biggest venture, which was to build a fashion label out of the works of famed tattoo artist Don "Ed" Hardy, proved to be a fantastic flop. A dozen posh boutiques around the globe, marketing haute couture directly to celebrities, but trying to feign that down to earth "everyman" attitude associated with tattoo parlors in the first place, made for a disastrous "ain't foolin' nobody" outcome. Don "Ed" Hardy himself would take back the brand and make it a ready-to-wear brand sold mostly online and in department stores going forward, leaving Audigier the fragrances until his passing in 2015. Ed Hardy Man (2008) was the first male fragrance from Christian Audigier's fragrance division (now in the hands of EA Fragrances since his passing), but it was a rather safe and inoffensive scent that spoke nothing of the edgy vibe it's name suggested. Love and Luck for Men (2009) fares a bit better in this department, and is also created by Olivier Gillotin like the previous one. Olivier is a perfumer who has a few renowned successes like Elizabeth Arden's Red Door (1989), Elizabeth Taylor's White Diamonds (1991), Jacques Fath Pour l'Homme (1998), and Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille (2007) but also a few infamous scents like Dior's Higher (2001), Higher Black (2002), and DKNY Be Delicious Men (2004). All this proves to me is that Gillotin isn't afraid to play around with ozonics, nor afraid to fail critically, and all of his "bombs" (despite sales) are of that ozonic category; they're honestly well-made too, despite being of a genre unfavorable to enthusiasts. Love and Luck for Men does strike in a way as being of that ozonic demeanor too, but is rounder and more toned-down than anything listed above from that category; this is an ozonic made mature, respectable, piquant without being shrill, and zesty without losing a softer side in the exchange. It's probably a good thing this was done, as the ozonic style began to die out in 2008 and by the next decade would become passe. The long slip-over-bottle cap design is also cool, and makes this a treat to handle.

The opening of Love and Luck is a whole bunch o' citrus, including bergamot, orange, mandarin, and a peck of grapefruit to tie it in with the ozonic theme. Cardamom also makes a show, and the whole thing has maybe half of the expected nose tinge that a typical ozonic possesses. The heart follows up the top notes rather quickly on skin, while on shirt the top stays literally on top of everything longer, but once they're there, the heart of sage, cypress, and violet show off a brief bit of femininity. Supposedly an absinthe note is here too, but as an absinthe drinker, I beg to differ, and if anything, it's a synthetic compound meant to replicate the smell of anise and wormwood in spirits, which it doesn't. I can't tell you what it is, but that stuff is not absinthe. I also hear comparisons to Creed Millésime Imperial (1995) from a large portion of folks, and the occasional rooty-tooty-fresh-and-snooty perfumisto comes down from Mount Snifflympus to say "balderdash!" but to be honest, I don't care. Obviously every fragrance with a quality lemon verbena note isn't trying to smell like a clone of Creed Green Irish Tweed (1985), so let me nip that right there for you guys. The base here is where the scent gets most interesting, as a note of oud mixes with vetiver, cedar, and laundry-fresh white musk. It's ultimately the interplay between the musk and cedar that wins the day in the base, but you can feel that very dry and bleached agarwood in the background, in almost a similar way to Mancera Wild Rose Aoud (2011), but on a far less-potent level. Obviously Ed Hardy fragrance is not niche, and with current EA Fragrances ownership, barely still designer, but I believe it's this oud/cedar interplay with the musk that gives Love and Luck for Men it's true power, in place of the otherwise nuclear citrus top you'd expect from an ozonic.

Ed Hardy as a fragrance brand has it's first real masculine winner here with Love and Luck for Men. The juice comes in a stylish albeit campy bottle that will stand out in any collection (as with all Ed Hardy scents), but has the double-benefit of actually being well-crafted and original. The later Hearts and Daggers (2009) would be much more in the aquatic direction, and likely a bigger mainstream hit, but nowhere near as focused, at least to me. The "mature ozonic" combination of a 4-way citrus top, delicate florals, and a rather dry, classy base of conventional cedar and exotic oud make Love and Luck for Men a confident all-day warm-weather scent. It's a bit richer than most ozonics and even if it isn't an attempt to replicate Millésime Imperial like everyone seems to think, it does bring a bit of class to the table all it's own, as long as you ignore the packaging. Love and Luck for Men is a tad sensual thanks to the violet and cypress also playing with that musk and wood base at times, but overall this is a sparkly clean citrus that's a cut above the ozonic and aquatic din of the period. it's another example of "if you hate the style you'll also hate this" since I know male ozonics that aren't made by Issey Miyake don't tend to get a lot of love here, but for the price this retails in some places, it's a steal for the guy wanting something fresher, more modern, but not smelling like a bottle of 409 or Fantastik like some things that attempt what this scent accomplishes. Best part of all? This stuff goes the distance for eight hours or more, so unless you're pulling a double, you won't need to reapply, which is something I have never been able to say about anything that is remotely ozonic in the designer category outside an Issey fragrance. A nice, sophisticated freshie that doesn't play it 100% safe is what you get here. There isn't a whole lot more to be desired from the category.
21st May, 2018 (last edited: 23rd May, 2018)

Lust by Gorilla Perfume

This is the Jasmine Indole that is laid down behind the Jasmine Absolute.
I have the solid perfume. It provides a beautiful albeit saccharin laden base below my Vintage Eau Fraiche and has it's (Eau Fraiche) rot lasting more than half an hour. Those with fear of the Fecal and Petroleum best stay away!
21st May, 2018 (last edited: 22nd May, 2018)

Calvin by Calvin Klein

There is so much hype with this scent across the Internet, that it's actually hard to parse objective description from sentiment, with people clutching survivng bottles and screaming "the ultimate masculine scent" or "the only CK worth owning" while cradling it in their sleep. Well, for the record, this is a GOOD fragrance from the early 1980's, and indeed debuted alongside the "Class of 1981" which included greats like Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent, Antaeus by Chanel, Oscar de la Renta Pour Lui, and Bijan for Men, but like Stetson by Coty, tends to sit outside of that circle because Calvin Klein was still in it's perfumery infancy after the release of Calvin Klein (1979) for women, and just didn't get the same attention. The hype machine really got started after this was brought back for a limited time in 1999 to celebrate the turn of the millenium, and drilled into people's head that this was some unsung hero of the 80's powerhouse period. Well, I'm here to tell you that it's not some lost unappreciated gem worthy of the niche price tags it fetches now in the aftermarket, nor is it the first and final real achievement of the house, because like it or not, Eternity for Men (1989) was that scent (and arguably not the final achievement), as it did more for the future of perfume than this little black obelisk. However, this is a really quality, if somewhat derivative oakmoss bomb full of bright bergamot, smoky vetiver, and smooth musk. If the house of Calvin Klein had the kind of talent Chanel has, this might have even survived reformulation well, like Antaeus, if it had been kept available, but since it's intial run was brief and it's second run nothing but a tease, it makes sense that folks covet it more than they probably should. I mean, just the fact that the same house who makes endless freshies even put out an oakmoss powerhouse is astonishing in and of itself.

Calvin opens up with an enormous blast of bergamot and neroli, with lemon, mandarin, and the odd choices of chamomile and armoise softening the blow a little more than one might expect. The floral heart shows it's face rather early, but these are manly florals of the barbershop kind, so expect a stiff geranium note accompanied by meaty tarragon and lemon verbena. This phase reminds me most of the later Aramis Tuscany Per Uomo (1984), just with the added heft of a fat-bottomed oakmoss base. Even in this earliest phase, CK was using "Kleinisms", with oddly specific notes like "cinnamon leaf" and "orange flower" that feel incredulous. It's a far cry from "acid rain accord" or "sunshine on an angel's back" BS of more recent note pyramids, but even in 1981 the CK marketing team was allowed to embelish the note pyramids, just not to the same extent. I'm not saying the leaf of the plant cinammon is cultivated from isn't in there, but it's doubtful. The base is pure classic early 80's, and the biggest part aside from the top that makes it too similar for it's own good to more profound masculines from the period. Sandalwood, vetiver, oakmoss, patchouli and musk make up the final phase here, instantly connecting Calvin to Eucris by Geo F Trumper (1912), Jacomo de Jacomo (1980), the later Avon Féraud Pour Homme (1985), and to the more-obscure Lamborghini GT (also 1985). Calvin finishes much like these, with a heavier musk bedrock that supports a patchouli and vetiver garden fertilized by oakmoss. It's formal and rich, not crisp after the citrus fades like some of the others, and best for spring or fall median temperatures.

Calvin's most unique feature is that it's virtually an early 80's powerhouse chimera, that tries to take elements from classic barbershop scents, bright Italian citrus, stiff English oakmoss, and patchouli/musk riffage from the previous decade. Calvin Klein clearly wanted something for everyone with this, but distinction is sacrificed for likeability. I also understand the fanaticism, because CK is one of the most popular and ubiquitous designers on the planet, so there's a much larger pool of fans, some not so well-versed in their options, that see this as the holy grail of 80's masculines because they just don't KNOW about the alternatives. Collectors and vintage snobs will obviously over-hype this too, just because it IS the oldest CK masculine and only one of two main-line non-seasonal/non-flanker scents that are discontinued and rare, so the "dragon fever" overrides their logic circuits and convinces them of it's superiority, with the old "I paid X for it so I have to like it" justification filling in the blanks. If money is no object and your patience is unlimited, a full-bottle purchase of this is definitely recommended as it is a very nice scent worth owning. However, considering it sits squarely inbetween a range of arguably more-signifant and distinct masculines in style, and is more derivative than zealots will admit, it's one unicorn better left in the wild, unless on the off-chance Calvin Klein lets it breed once again.
21st May, 2018

Luna Rossa by Prada

Very light, clean and somewhat powdery, this lavender scent is modern but the performance is very weak.

I think I would like it better if it had better performance because it smells nice while you can smell it but seems to be gone after 2-3 hours. That makes it hard to justify wearing unless you'll be reapplying all day or just need to smell nice and clean for a couple hours. Sorry, but this seems to get over-powered by scented deodorant.

That said, it does seem to come back in tiny wafts throughout the day. Still weak projection but it lingers for 6-7 hours.
21st May, 2018

Amazingreen by Comme des Garçons

This is a fun fragrance.
I agree with one of the previous reviewers. I am also familiar with the smell of spent gun cartridges and its fresh green mixed with a hint of that.
Its fun and fresh and more masculine than unisex and nice for a hot day but lacks true depth and class to be taken really seriously but there is nothing wrong with bit of fun!
21st May, 2018

Musc Tonkin by Parfum d'Empire

Note: Review is of the EdP, not the extrait version.

Musc Tonkin is an astonishingly tame musk perfume, insubstantial and forgettable. There is noticeable leather and a hint of florals, so much so that this could also pass off as a meek leather fragrance. On card as well as on skin there is no hint of anything animalic at all, and on skin it projects barely an inch, even after a generous application (approximately 1 ml). It's a tad musty, and brings to mind musky leathers of yesteryears (particularly Chanel's Cuir de Russie) but at one tenth volume and concentration.

Musc Tonkin pales in comparison to a well rounded musk fragrance like Muscs Koublaï Khan (which itself is not particularly animalic either ...), while there are several excellent musky leathers so that one need not bother with Musc Tonkin, which is possibly the weakest output from Parfum d'Empire that one has encountered.

21st May, 2018

154 by Jo Malone

Stardate 20180521:

154 is named after Jo Malone's London store. It is supposed to capture the "headspace" of the shop. Diptyque did something similar with their 34.
I like this one as it captures the best Malone has to offer. The Lime Basil Mandarin is one of the dominant smell in this composition followed by Nutmeg Ginger.
Base is woodsy and oriental.

The only offering in EDP concentration.
21st May, 2018

Acqua di Parma Colonia Pura by Acqua di Parma

My first experience with the house and it gets a slight thumbs up. This is an uplifting spring / summer scent good for the office or casual. Great lemon opening that is very nice and not too sweet nor overbearing to my nose. It does turn to a flowery scent in the mid which gives way to a musky woody dry down. I like it but don't love it. As per usual try before you buy... otherwise Enjoy!
21st May, 2018

Bois Noir by Chanel

Stardate 20180521:

Egoiste's predecessor. Spices and woods. Reminds me more of concentree version of Egoiste.

Egoiste is one line where the differences in various vintages and flankers do not change the core DNA.Do stay away from Platinum flanker.
If you need to buy one get Egoiste EDT (vintage preferred but current will do)

21st May, 2018

Limestone by Thorn & Bloom

Attractive perfume which does somehow manage to evoke the scent of damp limestone in an original way, especially in the topnotes. Normally you might need a touch of geosmin or a specialised type of ambergris to achieve that effect, but I can't smell those materials here. Very good.
21st May, 2018

Encens et Lavande by Serge Lutens

Simple but fantastic. Encens et Lavande is pretty much a two note scent: high quality lavender paired to a gorgeous, airy incense note. The lavender is bright, radiant and leads to a dry down of fuzzy incense, ethereal but still substantial. This is the most satisfying incense accord in the Lutens lineup. It is slimmer than Gris Clair, but just as tenacious. Sillage is quite good for its style, as I do keep getting lovely gentle wafts throughout.

Encens et Lavande (together with Gris Clair and Oxford & Cambridge) is one of the best lavender scents I've come across. Fans of Oxford & Cambridge would perhaps appreciate this for the starkness of the composition. The lavender note, though, is richer and similar to the one in Gris Clair. Encens et Lavande might also appeal to lavender fans who find Gris Clair to be too ashy.

Very different from most other things in the Serge Lutens lineup. It is calm, meditative and introspective. This is not complex, unlike Gris Clair, Eau Noire or Dzongkha, and is unlikely to satisfy anyone after a complex lavender or incense scent.

Encens et Lavande is a case study in simple beauty and elegance. The lavender is very good, but once it hits the hour mark and the incense joins in, the scent is sublime.


Note: Review is based on an older "Shiseido" bell jar version.
21st May, 2018

Ankh by Scents of Time

I've been lucky enough to have obtained most of the vintage and discontinued fragrances that I love to wear , but this scent is impossible to find at any price...I was also lucky enough to obtain a 10 ml decant several years back from a fellow Basenoter...on the very first whiff I took I was immediatly captivated and thought...hmmmmm...must get a bottle of this...not being able to find a bottle of this is why 10 ml lasted me so long...i used it very sparringly , taking my time to enjoy it...alas , as I write this , I am enjoying the last couple of sprays...firstly , this overall has the profile , charactaristics and quality of an attar...the difference is it is EDT strength , as far as i know, so it doesn't have the thickness/richness/opulence of an attar...what it does have is that multi-dimensional/layering effect and the way notes pop in and out among other incense , resins , spices and woods and this fragrance does a great job of checking all those boxes...OK... Enough of that ...let's move on to the scent itself...opens fresh and uplifting...a kind of citrus/resin/incense accord...sweetens and deepens...get one of those attar effects i mentioned , as different notes and effects start drifting in and out...a liitle honey...a touch of cinnamon...a smidgen of pepper...a sprinkling of some flowery smells...smells exotic and somewhat mysterious...oriental for sure...hard core oriental...after going through a kaleidiscopic-cornucopia of a seamless flow of accords this settles to a final resting place of a sweetish/resiny sandalwoodish incense...I will miss you...
21st May, 2018

Dzongkha by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Woody, paper-like, floral sweetness in the beginning. The florals come off a bit like bug spray mixed with some of the other notes. Stays woody into the drydown and becomes greener. Finally you’re left with leather and incense which gives it a mature feel. The whole thing is actually pretty mature and formal from beginning to end. Not heavy at all so feels like a nice warm weather scent.

Projection is below average and it doesn’t last but maybe 4 hours on me.
21st May, 2018

Maritime Deep Blue by Tommy Bahama

Starts of clean and synthetically sweet but mostly just generic and weak.

There is a little sea saltiness in the drydown but nothing that rivals other aquatics.

Projection is below average and longevity is okay.
20th May, 2018 (last edited: 21st May, 2018)

Eau d'Orange Verte by Hermès

Mine, is a vintage bottle of eau de cologne. It is a marvelous aromatic. Crisp, bright, and luscious citruses. Fun notes of mint and basil. Lavender that is just enough that it doesn't kill me. Lovely, earthy oakmoss on the bottom. This is one of those that, the more I wear it, the more I enjoy it.
20th May, 2018

Maritime by Tommy Bahama

Maritime comes off as a powdery, blue version of an Abercrombie fragrance. It must remind me of one of there scents but with a twist on it.

Not really aquatic, just fresh and clean with some powdery sweetness.

I get good projection and longevity.
20th May, 2018