Fragrance Reviews from September 2011

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    kayley123's avatar

    United States United States

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    Miss Dior Chérie (original) by Christian Dior

    The opening is fine, sweet and fruity, but the drydown is too acidic for me...I think my sample may have turned though, so I will update after I try a fresh one, to make sure.

    01st September, 2011

    andylama's avatar

    United States United States

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    Invasion Barbare / SB by MDCI

    IB is more or less an aromatic fougere with a big sweet herbal accord, but distinctive enough that it's worth smelling/having, even if you already have a bunch of other aromatic fougeres. It's not quite like any other, and I don't think I've ever smelled a fougere that was more beautiful than this one.

    Mature, gentlemanly, and easy to wear without being too dandified, loud or 'old fashioned'. Works well for both everyday and special occasion use. I find the longevity to be very good, and the drydown, while not amazing, is better than one might expect, and never becomes flat, offensive, or sour. This is very high-quality stuff! (and you see that in the price!)

    The only drawbacks: it's ridiculously expensive AND not widely available.

    After wearing it for a few days, I found myself thinking "this is the fragrance that Guerlain Homme should have been" (not that they are all that similar, mind you)

    One odd aspect that another reviwer alluded to: There's something in this that will make you want to sneeze when you first spray it, but it dissipates quickly and is not a problem.

    Overall, an exceptional, beautiful masculine. Now that I have it, I never want to be without it.

    01st September, 2011

    msveronica9's avatar

    Australia Australia

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    Gauloise by Molyneux

    I find it interesting that a fragrance with this name and style of packaging turns out to be a feminine. The Perfume Intelligence database describes Gauloise as a "fresh green mossy woods powdery-floral aldehyde", and that agrees very much with what I smell.

    Gauloise is a popular brand of strong cigarettes produced in France since 1910. The styling of the flacon in the photo (an open cigarette packet), leaves little doubt that this fragrance pays homage to its namesake tobacco sticks. As such, I was initially surprised that Gauloise (the perfume) had no discernible tobacco note - but if it was targeted at smokers, I guess there'd be no need. This fragrance may have been designed to compliment (and probably freshen) the ashtray odours of the person wearing it.

    The strangeness (to my eyes at least) of this fragrance's marketing highlights the decline of smoking culture worldwide, which is no bad thing. But it's a shame that Molyneux's Gauloise is also fading into the past, because it really is a delicate, beautiful scent (if rather fleeting, at least in EDT form). If you love fresh aldehydic florals and come across a bottle of this almost-forgotten treasure, I urge you to give it a try.

    01st September, 2011

    Sunsetspawn's avatar

    United States United States

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    Arôme 3 by D'Orsay

    Although this is labeled unisex, I would really consider it MASCULINE!

    With that out of the way, I can continue. Arome 3 is a fresh scent that is bracing and sharp. It actually reminds me of a dry alcoholic beverage of some kind. There's a greenness to it that also comes of as SILVER. The lavender is clear but understated, and it never comes of as smelling purple. I know my use of colors sounds ridiculous, but that's the impression I get.

    Anyway, there's no playfulness here. A little ceder and moss keep it from floating away in its own bitter freshness. I would also consider this a warmer weather scent, but I'm sure it could work whenever

    My final point of interest is that the best part is the end. And by "the end" I mean like 7 hours in.

    01st September, 2011

    msveronica9's avatar

    Australia Australia

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    Kai by Kai

    Gardenia + LOTV + Tiare '/. 3 = Kai.

    Kai is potent, linear and tenacious: good or bad qualities, depending upon whether you like this blend of white flowers. I do, but I'm not sure when -or if- I want to personally broadcast their aromas so loudly.

    I have Kai EDP and a tiny sample of the oil. I found it laughable that the little card which came with the oil announced "kai is different on everyone". To me, this fragrance so 'fixed', I think it would be unmistakeable on anyone -or anything- it was sprayed upon.

    I can't imagine Kai blending in with a wearer's personal chemistry - it's way too strong and un-human for that. In fact, Kai could be successfully employed to disguise minor lapses in personal hygiene.

    01st September, 2011

    dark phoenix 123's avatar

    Singapore Singapore

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    Escape for Men by Calvin Klein

    i normally do not go for perfumes with watery or oceanic notes as i find them boring and lacking in character. i might be biased here, but i find eternity strangely sexy (it could well be linked to personal memories) and virile-smelling. love it!

    01st September, 2011

    shamu1's avatar

    United States United States

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    Jovan Black Musk for Men by Jovan

    Now here's a fragrance I just bought and know I'll never wear again. Whoop-di-do, another grape bubblegum-scented "Black" fragrance, this time from Jovan. This smells like a much lighter version of the horrendous Stetson Black. It's synthetic, weak and has Kool Aid level sweetness. The grayish purple color of the juice is totally appropriate for this scent.

    The only musk I smell in this is a sugary, clean laundry musk in the base. These types of musks belong in laundry detergents and dish washing liquids, and they should stay there. This is why I don't like most musk fragrances. The musk in this smells terrible.

    I can't say this is completely vile, but it's so unoriginal and painfully boring, I just have to give this a thumbs down. I bought my bottle on super clearance for only $5 for the 4 oz. splash bottle, and I still feel like I was gypped.

    Jovan's Musk For Men is so much better than this.

    MY RATING: 4/10

    01st September, 2011

    sherapop's avatar

    United States United States

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    Madison Square Park by Bond No. 9

    Bond no 9 MADISON SQUARE PARK is thankfully a lot better than MADISON SOIREE, which I find unwearable (to my nose MADISON SOIREE is a somewhat rank soap scent—could be a skin chemistry issue, then again maybe not...). In fact, MADISON SQUARE PARK is a completely different genre: a kind of crispy and sparkly citrusy-fruity-floral perfect for the spring weather which had finally made its way out to these parts at the time when it was launched.

    The opening of this Bond offering smells to me a bit like a cross between HIGH LINE and Guerlain AQUA ALLEGORIA PAMPLELUNE. Although grapefruit is not listed among the official notes, I really do smell a dominant quasi-grapefruit zest note in the opening. This gives way shortly thereafter to a hyacinth and tart rhubarb-like composition. All in all, a generally refreshing and optimistic scent. Not sure that I'd want a full bottle of this one, but I'd definitely wear it in the springtime, if I happened to have some lying around. For now, I'll work my way through my purse spray and then see whether MADISON SQUARE PARK has become an acquired need...

    01st September, 2011

    pince_nez's avatar

    United States United States

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    Detchéma by Révillon

    A Sixties throwback powdery aldehyde scent that, though beautiful, hides in the shadow of the great No. 5 by Chanel. Yes this is jasmine resting on a woody base -- but really -- why opt for this when the sublime rose-jasmine Chanel counterpart beckons.

    01st September, 2011

    pince_nez's avatar

    United States United States

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    Portrait of a Lady by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

    A sublime rose/incense/woody scent that is masterfully blended. The name is a misnomer since this really works as a dark rose masculine. Fragrant, intense, one of a kind, heady outtake from this very discriminating niche-house.

    A++++

    01st September, 2011

    pince_nez's avatar

    United States United States

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    Green Irish Tweed by Creed

    What else could I possibly write about this fragrance that has not been written elsewhere. A one of a kind scent much imitated and copied and the grandfather of all those fresh/ozonic/watery and Calone-inspired scents!

    That said, if this was good enough for Cary Grant, this should be good enough for me (IMHO).
    Kudos to the master perfumer Pierre Bourdon!

    01st September, 2011

    Vitamin B Complex's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Cool Water by Davidoff

    I'm giving this a neutral because I rate this as an average fragrance. I won't bother describing it as there are over a hundred reviews but the only time I will wear this is after a shower after going to the gym because it smells clean.

    That's it. Very average and very boring.

    01st September, 2011

    sherapop's avatar

    United States United States

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    Little Italy by Bond No. 9

    There is something truly addictive about Bond no 9 LITTLE ITALY. I don't know why. It's so simple, yet at the same time so enticing. I love, love, love to spray this stuff on. I have other orange-centric fragrances--including both of the Hermès Orange Verte versions--but the clean musk base of this one keeps drawing me back, again and again. The composition holds up extremely well in hot weather, without morphing into anything unpleasant, as can happen with some citrus scents. The base has an almost resinous quality, which makes this perfume, to my nose, much more than just another citrus cologne.

    I am familiar with civet, which figures in both JOY and FIRST, of which I have bottles. As far as I can tell, there is absolutely no civet in this composition, and my cat, a board-certified civet detector, does not stir when I run a LITTLE ITALY-spritzed wrist under his nose. This is, believe it or not, a foolproof test, working best as he dozes peacefully, stirring slightly only to lick his lips--when and only when there is civet present in the perfume under inspection!

    Although with such a fail-safe system in place, I don't really need any further assurance, it is probably worth observing--for the benefit of any skeptics harboring doubts about the accuracy of my civet detector--that the house which created this perfume, Bond no 9, does not list civet as a note. Given the weight and cogency of all of this evidence, it seems not unreasonable to conclude that anyone who thinks that he or she smells civet in LITTLE ITALY would do well to invest in a Neti pot.

    01st September, 2011

    sherapop's avatar

    United States United States

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    Incanto Bliss by Salvatore Ferragamo

    Salvatore Ferragamo INCANTO BLISS is a shiny happy tonic of a perfume, although it is neither very citrus, nor very aromatic. Every time I put it on (usually when dashing out the door), I feel momentarily uplifted. It's bright, cheery, optimistic, sociable--basically the antithesis of thick, heavy, dark and pensive chypre perfumes. This a fragrance which I regard as more or less interchangeable--in terms of timbre, tone, and mood--with TRACY. Although they are definitely distinct compositions (with completely different notes), they serve precisely the same purpose and offer similar effects. Neither is overly sweet; neither is suffocatingly floral. All things considered, TRACY has a bit more overall perfumic integrity, it seems to me.

    INCANTO BLISS can be perhaps usefully compared to a selective serotonin re-uptake inhibitor (SSRI). On the one hand, it temporarily blocks the capacity for brooding. On the other hand, it is impossible to enter into a deep relationship with such a fragrance. The momentary bliss which it seems to provide proves fairly swiftly to have been an illusion: shortlived and superficial. Had I written this review under the influence, I would surely have given it a thumbs up. (No need to worry: there are no guns around.)

    01st September, 2011

    sherapop's avatar

    United States United States

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    L'Air du Desert Marocain by Tauer

    I've been ranting of late about some devolutions in the perfume world, including rampant dilution--not only by mass market producers, but also some niche brands as well--so it's certainly a relief to be able to turn to one of Andy Tauer's creations as a reminder that there is still hope. Yes, even in a world filled with meaningless and irrelevant flankers which evaporate from collective memory nearly as fast as they evaporate from the skin, in a quaint corner of Switzerland, genuine perfumes are still being made.

    L'AIR DU DESERT MAROCAIN bears the unmistakeable "wild" signature of this house. Lots of complexity and depth and layers and some very heavy notes, which are however thoughtfully measured and blended. This truly unique composition is an oriental chypre with an ambergris base. Yes, that's a mouthful, and L'AIR DU DESERT MAROCAIN is indeed a noseful--but in a good way! Evernia prunastri and evernia furfuracea account for this perfume's chypre demeanor, but the spiciness imparted by coriander and cumin keep it oriental without leading the wearer inadvertently back to the kitchen. The animalic quality imparted by the ambergris is not at all unlike some leather notes I've sniffed.

    A beautiful, contemplative composition, suitable for guys and gals alike who appreciate a good dark chypre, although there is definitely more here than that. Let's just say that chypre appreciation is a prerequisite to a successful encounter with this perfume. Very potent, as I find all of the Tauer creations to be. This one is marked as "eau de toilette intense," but it may as well be pure perfume, since it behaves just as well, with big sillage and excellent longevity. L'AIR DU DESERT MAROCAIN is a perfume best worn when one wishes to experience the beauty of perfume, as an event in and of itself.

    01st September, 2011

    dark phoenix 123's avatar

    Singapore Singapore

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    Platinum Égoïste by Chanel

    seem to see quite a few reviews saying EP (btw, it used to be called egoiste platinum when it was first launched, but they swopped the name around subsequently) smells like cool water. i like cool water (have two vintage bottles) too, but i find them rather different. cool water smells casual to me, but EP (possibly due to that unmistakable metallic note) makes u think of aloof, powerful and well-groomed men in suits sitting in a nice, clean, modern office. i think EP deserves to be in everyone's wardrobe... hahhaa.. maybe take my opinion with a pinch of salt as i have hundreds of perfumes in my wardrobe!

    01st September, 2011

    dark phoenix 123's avatar

    Singapore Singapore

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    Accenti by Gucci

    Lush, gorgeous, intoxicating opening with roses, peaches and booze... a monster opening if u like. a pity that its sillage drops quickly, and can only be detected closer to the skin after an hour or so. still, a classy voluptuous fragrance nonetheless!

    01st September, 2011

    Ande Spenser's avatar

    United States United States

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    Ninja by Parfums de Coeur

    Ninja is a spicy, sultry, powdery oriental fragrance somewhat similar to Cinnabar and Opium, but with much more pronounced spice and a tenacious cling.

    Parfums de Coeur first registered the trademark NINJA for use June 26, 1981. They renewed the mark March 21 2003, although production of Ninja had been discontinued. The mark is set to expire March 21, 2013. Since this is listed in their officially discontinued list on their website, it seems likely that they will allow the name to lapse.

    I spoke with an employee at Parfums de Coeur in July 2011 and discussed Ninja's future. It is my firm impression that they fully intend to never produce it again. I told them there seems to be a small mob of women who would clamor to buy the first bottle if they brought back the original formula -- I stressed "don't change ANYTHING". I also let them know that I would be willing to pay department store prices for this fragrance. This is a quality perfume and should never have been released for $9.95, it should have been a midrange item even then. The employee seemed to perk up at this and said she would definitely pass that along to marketing.

    Ninja is one of my all-time favorite perfumes. As a redhead, I have problems with fragrance evaporating from my skin within minutes of applying it. Ninja seems to just soak right in and stay there. I can smell it hours later.

    A bottle of this smashed in my closet in high school in the 80s and I can still smell it when I visit my parents' house. The cinnamon and cloves in it have kept that closet moth-free and this is where my mum stores all her wools.

    When I was in high school, I owned a red acrylic sweater and sprayed it with Ninja (both were holiday gifts). The perfume contains a high concentration of cinnamon oil and I think it bonded permanently to that sweater. My mum still has it and you can still smell it faintly, although it has been laundered many times.

    Did I mention it has a long life? 25 years is incredible.

    As an independent (and still kinda green) perfumer I am attempting to recreate Ninja. A friend and fellow Ninja fanatic who hoarded the last inch of her last bottle for the past 10 years has let me borrow it to smell while I work on the formula. This is like trying to reverse engineer chocolate chip cookies without an ingredients crib. Every attempt I make in this Ninjaneering project I get closer. The failures are beginning to smell pretty good, but it's just not Ninja yet. It's like glimpsing an old lover in a crowded terminal, there for a minute then gone.

    Ninja is primarily labdanum, a rich deep amber smoked out with birch tar and softened by storax. There is myrrh, oppoponax, and black pepper, vanilla and nutmeg, clove, cinnamon, and carnation. Just a bit of bayberry, bergamot, patchouli, and sandalwood. A hint of very dry frankincense and neroli. Jasmine and balsam peru and just a touch of peach. The main notes are amber, cinnamon, and carnation.

    This would make an amazing snack... What you couldn't eat, you could drink as a tea. Chai tea and gingerbread and spiced fruit chutney. The smell of Ninja is intoxicating. If you are partial to spicy orientals, this one will rock your world.


    Trademark info here:
    http://tess2.uspto.gov/bin/showfield?f=doc&state=4001:v1njru.4.143

    01st September, 2011

    hyblaean's avatar



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    Prada Candy by Prada

    Longevity is good...unfortunately on me. First the scent was gourmand and delicious, then after an hour it broke down into a heavy musk- softly sweet, but cloying and not to my taste. It's still very there after 4 hours now. I doubt I'd fill a room with scent, but it's strong enough to continually be a presence.

    01st September, 2011

    Diki24's avatar



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    The Dreamer by Versace

    i bought this after being recommended by many. But i found it just ordinary. i think it has outlived its novelty by now. Aroma is unique but uninteresting. Longevity is good but projection is not great atleast on my skin.

    01st September, 2011

    Diki24's avatar



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    Versace Man Eau Fraîche by Versace

    I really loved this perfume. It feels so modern and evolved. Projection is great and longevity is moderate. But it covers up with its fresh and complex aroma.
    I read a lot of negative reviews about it but i still went ahead with at as a blind buy. And i feel so good about it now.

    Highly recommended!!

    01st September, 2011

    Mr Berghia's avatar

    Romania Romania

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    Axe Africa / Lynx Africa by Axe / Lynx

    I have to admit I really like this Axe fragrance. I only had several body sprays of this one (didn't find more concentrated versions) and I used to wear it a lot when I was (very) young. Unfortunetly, I have some bad memories with this one. I didn't overdo it, but I have smelled several people who seemed to spray half a can of Africa and other Axe scents and the stench was horrible. These memories have stopped me from buying any more Axe products.

    The smell strongly reminds me of Le Male, which was released the same year. I don't find it legendary, but it is good, if you don't spray like crazy. Africa/Kilo is one of the strongest deodorants/body sprays. I seriously recommend you to go easy on it. It has tons of vanilla and spicy woods. I remember it had some spearmint in it too. I really don't like mint in perfumes, so this is a downside for me.

    Longevity is fantastic, especially for a deodorant. I don't remember having any longevity problems with this one. The projection is great too. Be sure people feel your scent. They may even compliment and think you have Le Male on lol. I remember I didn't tell people I have Axe on. Yes, I lies. I used to tell whoever asked me what scent do I have on that I had Le Male, and they believed, lol, because of the strong similarity.

    Rating: Smell: 8 - really surprizing for this price
    Longevity: 9 - I can't ask more from a deodorant/body spray
    Projection: 9 - same here
    Originality meter: 7 units/10 not fantastic but still very good for it's price
    Overall: 8 pretty damn great; the best Axe and the only good Axe

    01st September, 2011

    nofixedstars's avatar

    United States United States

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    Badgley Mischka by Badgley Mischka

    Once again, skin chemistry determines whether a perfume works or doesn't...I found Badgley Mischka to be a surprise hit for me. Although I do love flowers in nature, I'm rarely thrilled by the anonymous "white floral" notes of floral perfumes. There are exceptions, of course, but more often than not those are soliflores dedicated to replicating a single flower, often with a complex structure of many other notes for depth & interest. (DK Gold comes to mind.) But many floral offerings strike me as generic, sickly-sweet, lacking in depth, or unfortunately synthetic. And they tend to go even sweeter on me... Badgley Mischka went on both bright and lush, happily lacked any prominent artificiality, and went on to develop a warmth that underlined the exuberant florals with a hint of ripe fruit and a ghost of spice and/or resin (?), giving it some real backbone. It's a fairly subtle perfume on me---definitely not overblown or strong---and settles into skin scent within the first hour or less. In fact, opposite to what others have experienced, that is its main weakness for me: it lacks tenacity & projection. If it had more oomph, it would go on my favorites list for its quality and skillful blending.

    01st September, 2011

    Francois Blais's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Preferred Stock by Coty

    A very nice fougere for a cheapo.
    There are better offerings in the genre, but for its price, it's hard to beat!
    I match it with the after-shave and find it smooth and not overpowering at all.

    01st September, 2011

    momo-nyc's avatar

    United States United States

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    Calandre by Paco Rabanne

    Calandre was my signature scent for decades, literally. It warmed beautifully on my skin and had excellent sillage. I could wear it day and night, summer and winter, and it was always luscious and haunting. It smelled like me, and I smelled like Calandre. The fact that it has been discontinued is a source of heartbreak to me, and I am still hunting around for a "me" fragrance.

    01st September, 2011

    witchdocaz's avatar



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    Sung Spa by Alfred Sung

    This is a classic fresh scent. It smells feminine, not too flowery or fussy. Spa is really more of a citrusy and just-stepped-out-of-the-shower clean scent. I wish they would relaunch Spa. It was only available for a limited time. I have gifted it (now wishing I didn't) and everyone who received it fell in love with it too.

    01st September, 2011

    Darvant's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    XS Extrême pour Homme by Paco Rabanne


    The opening is as fresh and fruity as the one of the original, may be less green and sour while the following development is stronger because of the new usage of teak wood and the over dosage of leather. The dry down is darker and more intense than XS and with a shadowy leathery mark. The fruity temperament is still acute, the botanic touch less prominent while the masculinity is a more modern and marked one.

    01st September, 2011

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Nouvelle Edition Figue Amere by Miller Harris

    Figue Amere opens with a bitter green accord that's pretty interesting. Fig leaves, maybe some galbanum...Unfortunately it turns to a floral-ambery base that's not particularly refined and of much less interest. If you like floral-fig fragrances you can have plenty of better options out there (i.e. Jardins De Kerylos, Philosykos, Premier Figuer, Figuier, Ninfeo Mio..).

    01st September, 2011

    noirwest's avatar

    United States United States

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    Allure Homme Eau Fraîchissante pour l'Été by Chanel

    No idea what those negative reviews are about since this "all-over refreshing tonic" takes the best of the original and turns it into the most wearable warm weather scent I own. The flankers? All of them seem more like copies of one facet or another of this with Homme Sport in the silver bottle coming the closest. Even the tonic's bottle represents Chanel's sophistication better with it's lightly frosted glass and raised lettering.

    01st September, 2011

    miss mills's avatar

    New Zealand New Zealand

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    Shalimar by Guerlain

    Love at second sniff - the first was, "Yargh! Old lady!", but wait....try it again....heaven. Smoky, vanillic, a spicy concoction that wafts about the wearer's being like a haunting mist that shifts and blends with the body's chemistry to create something altogether personal. Genius blending and, to me, pure alchemy. Beautiful.

    01st September, 2011

    Showing 1 to 30 of 975.