Fragrance Reviews from September 2011

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    LadyDragonFire's avatar
    LadyDragonFire


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    Youth Dew by Estée Lauder

    This is a really nice perfume and anyone who completely dismisses it and/or calls it an "old lady scent" just because it was made in the 1950's is doing this fragrance a great injustice. Fortunately, I can see that most people here agree with me.
    Youth Dew smells mostly like burning incense with some exotic spices and citrus thrown in. It's a bit heavy and strong when I first spray it on, but it mellows out a bit when it begins to dry down. It's definitely a really nice perfume to wear in colder weather because it gives a strong impression of being warm and enveloping (to me anyway.) I am seriously thinking about buying a bottle of this for the winter.
    I also feel compelled to say that I have no idea why this perfume was only rated four stars in the "A-Z Guide to Perfume." To me, this is easily a five star fragrance. If you haven't tried Youth Dew yet you really should.

    19 September, 2011

    Darvant's avatar
    Darvant
    Italy Italy

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    Fille en Aiguilles by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    I completely agree with Diamondflame, Fille en Aiguilles is the warmer, more approachable and less sophisticated sister of the spiritual and drier Serge Noir. This fragrance turns out as a resinous blend of camphoraceous resins of mountain, pine needles, incense, mild woods and syrupy burnt sugar combined with some dried tasty wild berries, benzoin and amber. The note of vetiver and some spices enhance the rooty dark touch in order to balance the syrupy temperament of some elements. The combination of pine, camphor, frankincense and dried fruits turns it out very similar to Wazamba by Parfum d'Empire which is a bit dustier (more incense and labdanum) than the Lutens's one. The mellifluence despite being important is controlled and the fragrance itself is very delicious, woodsy, just an hint smoky and dark. Is like smelling the exhalations of a fruity burning forest. Linked with woods and greens i smell jam of red-purple fruits, some dropes of liquor cream and an hint of tobacco. A not particularly bold or distinguished this one is anyway  in my opinion a very captivating and evocative fragrance. The sillage seems to be weaker than usual for a Lutens's fragrance.

    19 September, 2011

    Darvant's avatar
    Darvant
    Italy Italy

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    Axe Phoenix / Lynx Phoenix by Axe / Lynx


    The metallic initial watermelon effect reminds me a bit the first stage of Narciso Rodriguez For Him  which with it shares the notes of musk, violet and some citrus (not listed in For Him). Phoenix is floral and at the beginning a bit rough and airy-boise' before fading in something smoother and leathery. The combination of leather and musk tames a bit the roughness of citrus, florals and earthy synthetic notes but the smell remains still harsh and masculine. Too metallic for long time the main accord of citrus-violet-geranium-lavender. A good deodorant anyway. 

    19 September, 2011

    Jack Hunter's avatar
    Jack Hunter
    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Aramis by Aramis


    A fragrance that separates the men from the boys and a great classic.

    19 September, 2011

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    MakeMyEyesBurn
    United States United States

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    Euphoria Men Intense by Calvin Klein

    I would almost buy this, it's just too weak. Get a small bottle and cary it in your pocket because it only last 45 minutes. Easily the shortest-lasting cologne I own. Sad

    19 September, 2011

    Diamondflame's avatar
    Diamondflame
    Singapore Singapore

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    Narcisse Noir by Caron

    I have never smelled the vintage but I don't find the current parfum formulation remotely 'noir'. On skin NARCISSE NOIR quickly morphs into a mildly acerbic yet dry, talc-like floral - unfortunately one of many I have come across.

    I do not know what the problem is but it just doesn't grab me, much less hold my attention. Perhaps my expectation is unduly high or my floral preferences lie on the lush side but right now this Caron songbird is singing to me in a monotone.

    19 September, 2011

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    TeenCologne


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    Drakkar Noir by Guy Laroche

    Im in 8th grade and this is my second real cologne, it smells great! Everywhere I went I had girls asking me to sit near them and walk by because I smelled so good... it projects alright, and it lasts for around 8-10 hours on me.

    19 September, 2011

    Darvant's avatar
    Darvant
    Italy Italy

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    Nymphéa by Il Profumo

    Nymphea, on the side of Ninfeo Mio, some others Annick Goutal's, fragrances from L'Occitane, from Etro, Cacharel and other brands, enters its name in the restrained ring of the dreamy, otherworldly fragrances that conjure spellbound ponds and woods of elfs. The link of notes as fig, musk, honey, rose and watery notes use to be a base for some  translucent and dreamy kind of fragrances as well as it happens in Nymphea. On this base some fruits, aquatic notes, bamboo, delicate flowers and citrus set here their influence creating a sort of discrete, watery, slightly laundry, floral and very feminine kind of smell. I love the link of fig, honey and musk over which the sophisticated mildness of jasmine, lily, white flowers of camp and rose grounds its shelter. The watery-woody accord (as underlined not ozonic but serenely aquatic), some citrus and the peach give the fluidity and exalt the transparence. Comforting and serene dreamy breeze.

    19 September, 2011 (Last Edited: 20th September, 2011)

    Bostonredlox's avatar
    Bostonredlox


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    Anne Klein by Anne Klein

    If Arpege by Lanvin and Jontue by Revlon had a baby, it would be Anne Klein. It has the aldehyde notes of Arpege but the sweet floral notes balance out the amber, musk and civet and remind me of Jontue. I found a bottle of the eat de perfume and my only complaint is that it has surprisingly short longevity. But otherwise a perfume that it sophisticated and soft at the same time.

    19 September, 2011 (Last Edited: 23 September, 2011)

    Darvant's avatar
    Darvant
    Italy Italy

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    Encens Epicé by Il Profumo

    As well as many others, i was thrilled by the resinous opening but a bit disappointed with the soapy, slightly synthetic (just in the effect) woody dry down. The resins are aromatic as coming from conifers and blended with lavender, coriander, may be nutmeg and a touch of labdanum are able to create, at least at the beginning, a sort of incensey and rooty-earthy (due to the note of tobacco) dark woodsy effect enough intriguing and particular. As well as the smell developes it becomes sweeter and lighter (less dense and a bit watery) reminding a sort of aromatic and energizing woodsy bath foam with a cosmetic feel a bit citrusy-lavender. The watery-lavender influence plus some spices, tobacco and mentholated resins create the soapy-cosmetic effect. A touch of patchouli adds sweetness. Longevity and sillage are good as usual for the fragrances by Il Profvmo. Very interesting the blend with Ginger of the same brand.

    19 September, 2011 (Last Edited: 09 April, 2012)

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    Swanky
    United States United States

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    Phoenix by Keith Urban

    The circumstantial evidence against Urban's Phoenix did not look good. The package and presentation, a mock Southwest theme and squat bottle, was disturbingly close to his brother-in-country Tim McGraw's Southern Blend which begins decently enough but soon falls apart. The economy pricing and downmarket availability portended a cheap and gimcrack and mercenary product. And, in the macro view, how many celebrity-flogged contraptions are released each year that are even passably wearable? Surprise, then, that the jury has acquitted Phoenix of the charge of pandering. This is actually not bad.

    Who knows what Keith Urban actually had to do with this fragrance but assuming he was involved it seems he told the mixologists to "do me a Burberry London." If you liked the latter or Remy LaTour's Cigar, you may get some pleasure from Phoenix. It shares a mildly sweet leathery texture with those older offerings and adds the chocolate note which is popping up more frequently than Michael Caine in British crime flicks. It also has good longevity without devolving into another lackluster amber, so common on the masculine side of the perfume counter these days. If you aren't a chocolate fan, though, it may be a bit too much.

    19 September, 2011 (Last Edited: 11th August, 2012)

    Darvant's avatar
    Darvant
    Italy Italy

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    Carthusia Uomo by Carthusia

    This woody-fruity slightly watery fragrance starts with a citrusy and fruity blast, enriched by a prickly fruity note of raspberry and by the hesperidic crispiness from bergamot, before to rise up its woodsy heart mastered by the refined woody note of rosewood followed by musk. The initial tartness soon morphs in something more silky and leathery that links itself fairly with the tamed fruity undertone. Some salty seaweeds  start projecting their effects in the second part of the development in the attempt to keep the fragrance up with the modernity and this is what in my opinion makes the scent to slide towards a common target of many woody-watery masculine concoctions, in the way the smell itself remains crisp and sharp (with some Egoiste Platinum nuances) despite the soothing support from the notes of cashmere, musk and leather. I detect some delicate flowers in composition. Not bad after all even if i should have prefered a more consistent structure. This is close to the skin with a decent longevity.

    19 September, 2011 (Last Edited: 30th December, 2013)

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    Scent-imental
    United States United States

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    Tendre Poison by Christian Dior

    This is one of my favourites, i'm not really fond of florals, so was surprised by quite how much i adored this one, it just lifted me into a realm of Laura Ashley dresses, Parasols, and a stroll around a summer garden, in a big floppy hat.

    But its not a soft romantic floral, its a big, gutsy, strong bouquet, thrust right in your face. Good sillage, and longevity. No shoving my neck at people with this one.

    It was my signature perfume, and i bought 3 bottles of it, its just so beautifully feminine and greeny floral, then very warm at the base, lasts for ever, and has me smelling my wrists constantly.

    Lately i've been equally obsessed by Hypnotic Poison, but having read that Tendre Poison is now discontinued, i have searched the net and found an online store selling the EDT for 34.09 (pounds sterling) for 100 ml, and i am very nervously awaiting its arrival, that seems ridiculously cheap, and i consider myself to have been robbed, with no parcel coming to the door. If i get a delivery, then I'll feel i got a bargain, and will post a link to the shop, as they ship worldwide.

    Can't wait to wear it again

    20th September, 2011

    Darvant's avatar
    Darvant
    Italy Italy

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    Wild Aoud by Montale


    A dry and very masculine combination of citrusy and aromatic, almost minty, elements, some astringent flowers, a central moderate dosage of aoud and some dry woods surrounded by tobacco and ambergris at base. A more strictly  botanic-woody than a resinous one. The note of aoud is not aggressive and too medicinal  in perception because the dosage is well balanced and a bit restrained. A touch of patchouli is a natural evolution for a real manly concoction. The combination of artemisia, woods, tobacco and ambergris imprints that wild, rough, aromatic temperament that is a dive in a sort of deep, warm and sharp virility. Not as compelling as the heavyweights by montale but anyway interesting and bold.

    20th September, 2011

    cello's avatar
    cello
    United States United States

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    Balle de Match / L'Eau De Sport by Parfums de Nicolaï

    Balle de Match, I must say, was ordered as a sample based on name alone. Balle de Match, ball of the match, match point. As a tennis nut, I had to sniff this one.

    And I am very glad I did. I'm not a fan of grapefruit notes, as they often come across as synthetic feeling and too acidic. Not this one. This is the truest grapefruit smell I have ever encountered in a fragrance. It is sharp, tart, juicy and very true to the citrus it emulates. Perfect. For any grapefruit lover, this is a must try. For those of us who hold the note in less esteem, do try this. This one may change your mind.

    But of course, there is more. A hint of incense, a soft cedar note, even a hint of pine. But make not doubt, the grapefruit is the star of this excellent match. It lasts far into the drydown, even if fading slightly.

    Lovely, easy, sporty but yet maintaining a sense of class. Reminds me of the history of tennis, and of how I would like to smell after each match and a good shower. Goodness, this is good. Game, set, match. A winner here.

    20th September, 2011

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    i_am_me


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    Tabac Original by Mäurer & Wirtz

    I'm a middle-aged "girlie girl" who only wears men's fragrances. They are distinctive and lovely and they do not make me think of the "bubblegum" for women sold in cosmetic departments everywhere . My favorites, and the ones I turn to most often, are Habit Rouge and Guerlain Vetiver. Based on the reviews for Tabac Original, I purchased a small EDC. It wasn't that much of an investment after all. I love it! Very subtle and soft. The first spritz is not so good but within a few minutes (well worth waiting for by the way) it dries down to loveliness.

    I think women should wear more men's fragrances-- they ooze taste, confidence and sophistication. Tabac Original is an easy fragrance for a woman.

    20th September, 2011

    j005279's avatar
    j005279


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    Prada Amber pour Homme by Prada

    When I first looked into this fragrance I thought...hmm. Patchouli, Tonka Bean, Vanilla....some of my favorites! And since they are in the middle notes, they will be there for the bulk of the scent life as well. I was wrong! This is different than the notes imply. Like others say...everything blends and what you are left with is something much more linear and its soap, soap, and more soap. I get a slight hint of Vanilla mixed with a base of Vetiver but overall its a very unique and the rest is mixed to the point where they cannot be distinguished. Now i give this a neutral review because it is soap. You may love the smell of soap, I do on occasion. If you do this is for you but be warned that it is very strong. so much so that it burns your nose a bit on a big wiff. very strong soapy clean smell. hidden behind is vanilla vetiver. thats what you are getting. It is too strong of a soap smell for me but for others they love it. It is a quality, unique fragrance and deserves high marks. I'm not against giving a good review to a high quality, unique fragrance even if i personally would not wear it.

    20th September, 2011

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    jaycmack
    United States United States

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    Tommy by Tommy Hilfiger

    Back in the mid-90's, I used to love the smell of Tommy. It is instantly recognizable. Unfortunately, to me, that is what makes Tommy seem so dated now. I instantly associate Tommy with the 90's, and I simply can't get past that. I also don't feel like I identify with the "soft" nature of the smell any more...nothing particularly masculine about it.

    20th September, 2011

    Darvant's avatar
    Darvant
    Italy Italy

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    Axe Apollo / Lynx Apollo by Axe / Lynx

    Generic light watery-ozonic without any trace of originality. Very artificial.

    20th September, 2011

    Darvant's avatar
    Darvant
    Italy Italy

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    Axe Atlantis / Lynx Atlantis by Axe / Lynx

    Lightweight woody-aquatic, metallic, pungent and common. A sporty deodorant and nothing else.

    20th September, 2011

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    Oh_Hedgehog
    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    L'Ete en Douce / Extrait de Songes by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    L’Eté en Douce, originally Extrait de Songe, is the cucumber sandwich of the L'Artisan range, with not a crust in sight. The notes are linden, mint, orange blossom, and musk.

    Unfortunately, L’Eté smells like fabric softener, is obnoxiously clingy, and can be dismissed as a pale imitation of Giacobetti’s En Passant for Frederic Malle.

    20th September, 2011

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    Persolaise
    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Shalimar Parfum Initial by Guerlain

    When you take it upon yourself to reinvent what's generally considered to be one of the greatest perfumes ever made - possibly the greatest oriental - the chances of pulling off a victory are infinitesimally small. Still, Wasser's effort deserves to be considered on its own merits, even if up to a point. With this in mind, I should start by stating that its juice is not pink, contrary to the horrified claims made on several blogs when news of its release was revealed. Secondly, it is housed in one of the most attractive mainstream bottles I've seen for a long time, an elegant, elongated version of the Jade Jagger design unveiled last year for Shalimar proper. So far, so good.

    But what of the scent? Well, one thing's for sure: it features a much higher dose of iris notes than you'll find in Jacques Guerlain's original. So high, in fact, that you can't help making the association which most often accompanies an iris overload: carrots. Suddenly you picture Shah Jahan turning his famed gardens into a giant allotment, complete with bunnies nibbling on root vegetables. Not what you'd call an auspicious start.

    Beneath the iris are recognisable elements of the original fragrance. The amber note comes through, perhaps a touch sweeter. The civet is pretty much intact. The bergamot - the quantity of which makes Jacques Guerlain's creation so distinctive - is toned down. Yes, all these factors are present, and they do complement each other to an extent, but they never lock into place with the same rightness that makes you gasp with pleasure each time you smell Shalimar.

    Like its predecessor, Parfum Initial operates on several planes: its sillage radiates the smoky, ambery notes of resins; when you get closer, the animalic tones emerge; closer still and you get the powdery vanilla aspects. But again, the effect of this is to make you think Wasser has indulged in an intellectual exercise in perfume experimentation, which is rather different from creating a fragrance that speaks for itself with a bold, original voice.

    It's never unpleasant, it's better than most high-street releases and it may well turn out to be fairly successful, but ultimately, Parfum Initial does not justify the need for its own existence. My only hope is that its release signals the moment when Wasser gets the burden of the past off his shoulders and faces the future with a more courageous vision of his professional aspirations.

    20th September, 2011

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    paolo_alcantara
    Philippine Philippine

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    Eau Sauvage by Christian Dior

    for me, this is the definition of a classic scent. Very versatile, can be worn on any occassion. And still going strong in 2011. The only downside on my skin is the longevity. If this can last 6-8 hours on my skin, I would give this 5 stars. No brainer. One of my more frequently used scents. Good for summer

    20th September, 2011

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    baldheadjim
    United States United States

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    Kenzo pour Homme by Kenzo

    Clean bright and green upon initial application. Dries into a sweet vetiver combo. Lasted all day. I'm talking over 10 hours! Only had a sample but I'm adding to my wish list.

    20th September, 2011

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    LadyDragonFire


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    Cashmere Mist by Donna Karan

    This perfume is okay, but it doesn't come out smelling very much like anything on me. I'm getting some very faint and hazy impressions of powdery white flowers but it's not a very obvious or noticeable smell. (On me anyway.) I suppose that might be why it's called Cashmere Mist? The scent really is like trying to perceive something through fog. I'm getting the vanilla too now as the perfume dries down, but this is not a really heavy or obvious vanilla-gourmand fragrance. Overall I would describe this as quiet, subtle, "proper" and demure. I guess it would be really appropriate for some people, but I don't feel that this fragrance is really "me."
    However, the scent is nice enough that I would probably buy a body wash or scented soap that smells like this. I don't think I would bother spending my money on the perfume though.

    20th September, 2011

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    sherapop
    United States United States

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    Cleopatra by Tocca

    My first encounter with Tocca CLEOPATRA (from a cute 7ml mini of which 5ml remain...) was fairly positive, and I ended up acquiring another small (15ml) bottle as a result. The bottles are so adorable that I don't really mind that they'll probably never run dry. What has happened since my initial testing is that I have come to regard this fragrance as a close olfactory neighbor to NARCISO RODRIGUEZ for her and Sarah Jessica Parker LOVELY, in addition to D&G Anthology LA ROUE DE LA FORTUNE.

    The key connection to my nose: slightly sweaty musk combined with a fairly hefty dose of patchouli. The musk in this composition lies just over the clean/sweaty line. I love clean musk compositions, in general, but this one is situated about a nanometer over the too sweaty line for me. Although it's not impossible for me to wear this perfume, and in certain moods, particularly on very humid days, I even sort of like it, after several wearings it has become abundantly clear that these small bottles will in all likelihood suffice for this lifetime.

    I'm fairly sure that anyone who likes NR for her and LOVELY would like this perfume as well. CLEOPATRA is much more about musk and patchouli than anything else, so anyone who loves those two notes may well welcome this creation with flaring nostrils. On the other hand, anyone who eschews those notes will not be happy with this perfume. On my skin, this edp projects quite a lot and has excellent longevity. I guess that this means that I number among those lucky sniffers who are not anosmic to musk--at least not the one(s) featured here!

    20th September, 2011

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    Buddy97
    Ireland Ireland

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    Lomani by Lomani

    Bought this after reading about it in the Powerhouse Group. Opened with no great expcetations and wow! Definite similarities to Drakkar Noir, but much more refined and cultured than the old version of that.

    Sweet citric lavender opening, in a barberhop-type way, leading to a true old-school oakmoss base. The opening is quite loud, but it quickly settles to that superb base, which lasts, albeit on a more restrained level. Perhaps dated somewhat and quite old-school, but all the better for that. Superbly blended, excellent value (much better than those retailing for many multiples of price), a new personal favourite of mine. Thumbs-up all the way.

    20th September, 2011

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    claytonmarionneaux
    United States United States

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    Cruel Intentions by By Kilian

    It begins strong with a rose smell then dries down to a rose/leaves kind of smell,interesting.

    20th September, 2011 (Last Edited: 08 October, 2011)

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    claytonmarionneaux
    United States United States

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    Prelude to love ...invitation by By Kilian

    A nice flowery,soapy smell,i wouldnt pay $200 for a bottle but the sample will come in handy :).

    20th September, 2011 (Last Edited: 08 October, 2011)

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    claytonmarionneaux
    United States United States

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    Straight to Heaven by By Kilian

    This has a huge rum opening for me and it dries down to a rum/leaves mixture. Not really my cup of tea but il wear it on occasion.

    20th September, 2011 (Last Edited: 08 October, 2011)

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