Fragrance Reviews from September 2011

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    Birdboy48's avatar

    United States United States

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    Feeling Man by Jil Sander

    This stuff certainly persists : 12 hours later and unlike most that I have, still going strong enough that I expect to smell it in the morning.

    Fairly massive projection in the case of the sample I got, so take it easy to begin with when it comes to experiments with application.

    Mini's of this green juice seem still fairly common on e-bay for reasonable prices, even at this late date, so if you're going to go retro, get it while you can.

    23 September, 2011

    orangefiction's avatar

    United States United States

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    L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme by Guerlain

    I love the cocoa in this. My first impression was that it was high quality and expensive smelling perfume I just don't like how it becomes powdery. Seems more of a formal scent to me so I don't know how often you can wear this maybe to weddings, church, formal dinners etc. I really want to try the extreme version as I heard there is more cocoa in it! Both versions gets points for bottle design too and I especially like the black glass in the extreme version.

    23 September, 2011

    Woodlover's avatar



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    Cacharel Pour L'Homme by Cacharel

    I really love this one — maybe because it is my first perfume I used regularly.
    I got a little sample as a gift about 20 years ago and was instantly intrigued by the unusual scent somewhere in between wood, flowers, sparkling and yet somehow soft and comforting, not very masculine (in the raw aftershave-type of masculinity) but still manly enough so my wife always comes close and takes a good sniff when she catches a whiff of it. The only down is that it doesn't last that long on me and I have to apply it twice if I still want to smell it in the evening.

    From this very first sample until today there was no day that I didn't have it in my bathroom. I don't use it every day though so it doesn't wear of...
    It is not that easy to obtain and I never smelled it on anybody else which is quite nice. It is a hidden treasure and I hope it will stay in production for years to come!

    23 September, 2011

    qvalitet's avatar



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    Niki de Saint Phalle by Niki de Saint Phalle

    What a dark, creamy and absolutely devine smell this is. Despite the negative reviews I bought this unsniffed - and I'm so glad I did.
    I got an aquarious bottle from the Zodiac series. Instead of Eau de toilette it's named Eau Defendue. It's rich and oily and worth each penny: USdollars 29,99 for a 2 oz bottle. It's a true bargain.
    Go and get a bottle - If you dislike the juice I'm sure you'll enjoy the beautiful artistic bottle. It's a win-win situation!

    23 September, 2011

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Bel Respiro by Chanel

    Pure sophistication. Bel Respiro is a fantastic example of how a frarance can be at the same time discreet and light manitaining an incredible class and character. A graceful green-floral composition that while sharing some similarities with No.19 it also takes the distance from many of the other Chanels because of its transparent, almost weightless, structure. A subtle leathery note adds a necessary extra touch to the gently sweet drydown. Simply delightful.

    A quet aer glider flying low over a green flowers field. Casual but extremely classy.

    23 September, 2011

    mumsy's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Eau de Gucci by Gucci

    I love this. I agree that it smells really, really familiar, like an auntie smell of long ago. It has that comforting feminine smell of a confident grown up woman who is happy in herself without being brash. The lilac sings, gently lifting over the powdery floral base then the sandalwood settles down to hum quietly all day. I would choose this when I couldn't choose.

    23 September, 2011

    mumsy's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Gold Woman by Amouage

    I have just bought Amouage Gold and i think it is a beautiful and classic perfume, ranking perfectly happily alongside Chanel 5. It has the powdery floral start with the creamy rich undertones of precious resins and woods. There is no sharpness on my skin. It certainly doesn't stand out, but I don't expect it was meant to. It is opulent and quietly beautiful. I can see a rich sultans wife wearing this, wafting sarees of beautiful colours in the noon heat.

    23 September, 2011

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Myrrhe Ardente by Annick Goutal

    I'm surely not among the most keen fans of Goutal's Les Orientalists and, while Myrrhe Ardente is not exactly unpleasant, it still can't be considered as a myrrh centered fragrance. Basically is all about woods and amber. If you expect the pungent-aromatic smell of this liturgical resin you have to wait for the drydown where myrrh bashfully makes its appearance or, maybe, directly jump to Luten's Le Myrrh.

    23 September, 2011

    suburbanites's avatar

    United States United States

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    I Love NY for All by Bond No. 9

    Both figuratively and quite literally, this scent "appeases the masses by offending no one" and it is truly a linear experience. You can name that tune in one note, and that dominant note is vanilla. Wearing this begins with an experience of a sharp and fresh bergamot to awaken the senses, along with citrus, pepper and lily of the valley. The experience then becomes much more linear as coffee, cacao and maron glace are added. Base notes are quick to open, those consisting of sandalwood, other leathery-woody notes, patchouli, and...oh, we almost forgot! Vanilla.

    The opening is sharp yet somewhat dirty, owing to the pepper and lily of the valley. All too quickly, and in my case that was about 10 minutes, the scent transforms right past the heart notes as if it were the uptown express bus missing a corner full of riders. It careens directly into the vanilla base, and this is where it becomes familiar. Too familiar. Too common. Too much like every other vanilla-based scent that's come before it. New Haarlem comes to mind, except that New Haarlem contains more noticeable and better blended competing notes of coffee, cream, caramel, and a completely different vibe altogether. The vanilla there is a complementary note. Here? It overpowers everything.

    It does very little to engage the olfactory or capture that essence of an iconic city as Bond has attempted to do with all of its other fragrances (some very well). Seven hours later, the vanilla finally extinguishes leaving little of the sandalwood and patchouli to pick up the pieces. But by that point, the damage has been done and you're left with the feeling of having spent almost the cost of one hotel night in a tourist class hotel and walking away with a simply a saccharine sweet confection rather than the essence of a city that two people could share.

    For All missed the mark. And that's a pity because Bond has done so well at creating good unisex fragrances that they had an opportunity to grab this bottle by the collar and show the world some New York chutzpah. Instead, they've left us with a not-so-cheap souvenir.

    23 September, 2011

    DahliaNoir's avatar

    United States United States

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    Hanae Mori (new / Butterfly) by Hanae Mori

    Sweet but not too sweet. The strawberry note is lovely and I detect a sweet sugar note. Love it.

    23 September, 2011

    LadyDragonFire's avatar



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    Kiki Parfum Extrait by Vero Profumo

    Out of all the lavender fougeres I've tried so far I honestly like this one the most. There are a few others I haven't tried yet, but I honestly like Kiki so much that I can't imagine I'll like anything else more. I can smell the citron in this fragrance a lot, mixed about equally with the lavender and the overall effect is really pleasant. There is also something in this fragrance which smells kind of herbal and green to me which I suspect is probably the patchouli in the base. Apparently, I really like patchouli in fragrances. (I think I do anyway.)
    I would definitely recommend this to anyone who is looking for a really good unisex lavender-citron fougere. In my humble opinion there really isn't anything to strongly dislike about this fragrance.

    23 September, 2011

    DahliaNoir's avatar

    United States United States

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    Chocolate Amber by Bath and Body Works

    BLAH!
    I smelled in in the store and thought "meh" but that was back when I had money to blow on whatever I wanted so I bought it.
    To me, it smells like peanut butter. I can't explain why. It just has a musty, peanut-buttery scent that takes forever to fade. No wonder it was only available for a very short time (I'm thinking less than a year?)

    23 September, 2011

    DahliaNoir's avatar

    United States United States

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    Obsession by Calvin Klein

    Obsessions is one of my comfort scents.
    My sister has worn this for at least 20 years and every time I smell it, I am reminded of her. I live in Korea now - half way across the world from my family - and whenever I'm missing my sister, I spray on this scent and it helps with the homesickness.
    The fact that the scent is very sexy and sophisticated is a plus!

    23 September, 2011

    Persolaise's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Kokorico by Jean Paul Gaultier

    One of 2011's more impressive mainstream releases. What’s especially fascinating is the tension it displays between the safer, more predictable aesthetic of the brand’s money-maker, Le Male, and the savagely underrated Fleur Du Male. Kokorico attempts to straddle both worlds: on the one hand, it’s an appetising woody gourmand (taking the minty top of Guerlain Homme, the tonka/cocoa heart of B*Men and the deep vanilla base of Tocade) but on the other, it doesn’t quite have the guts to eschew a yawn-inducing dose of Iso E Super and dihydromyrcenol (aka Generic Man Smell). The result is never unattractive – its polished warmth will doubtless work well as autumn tightens its grip – but it will probably disappoint those hoping for a more outré composition.

    Mind you, even the most demanding of wearers will ignore many of the scent’s shortcomings each time they catch sight of the bottle. At first glance, it appears to be little more than a profile of Monsieur Gaultier’s face. But view it side-on and you notice that it also depicts the familiar male torso from the Male bottles. It’s a quirky, wonderful little bit of design which suggests that, somewhere in its development process, this had been envisaged as a much more striking perfume. The name, the flacon and the ad campaign point at a wearer who sees himself as something of a preening cockerel. The scent is much more straight-laced, but it does have the potential to serve as a stepping stone towards more unconventional fragrance choices... so if its mission is to out a few closet cockerels, then I'm happy to give it a thumbs up.

    23 September, 2011

    DahliaNoir's avatar

    United States United States

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    Charlie White by Revlon

    This reminds me of my pre-teen years. My sister had a bottle of this and every once in a while, I'd sneak a spray. The scent reminded me of spicy watermelons.

    23 September, 2011

    martinijo's avatar

    England England

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    Calum by Calum Best

    Thought this smelled awful from the bottle but after 15 minutes a nice orangey scent started to come through,then to my surprise it turned into Chanel Platinum Egoiste or Allure (cant remember which) on the dry down. Big thumbs up for the price (dirt cheap)

    23 September, 2011

    Hoot's avatar

    United States United States

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    White Musk by Body Shop

    As most sensitive and active aroma buffs know...memory and smell and emotions are powerful allies.

    This scent does push me over the memory lane bridge..like reminding me about something that happemed in a former life. But the so does a $20 a quart old perfume called Blue Waltz.....as does Channel #5.....mostly memory. When its a good vague memory ...cow pies can smell good. And vice versa...

    Face it....we are creatures of habit, addiction and subliminal ingrained reactionists and prisoners to our sences...espeacially smells.

    White Musk reminds me of something somewhere good. But it could Have the opposite affect on anyone else. I believe that is why you see such mixed reviews here and elsewhere.....the subject.....by its very nature camt be very objective...but must forever remain subjective to each individuals experiemces and personality and sensitivity.

    Hoot



    23 September, 2011

    orangefiction's avatar

    United States United States

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    Greenergy by Givenchy

    I am new to this so I might be completely off but it reminds me of a light version of fahrenheit. I get a oily green (vetiver?) note so fans of fahrenheit might want to check it out. It smells ok but doesn't really stand out to me.

    The dry down on this is very nice mossy smell. I don't care for the fahrenheit smell in the beginning but if you wait long enough the oiliness goes away (it was overnight for me) and it develops a very pleasant moss smell.

    23 September, 2011

    PigeonMurderer's avatar

    Finland Finland

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    Lolita Lempicka by Lolita Lempicka

    It's very strong and sharp in the opening; nose stingingly so. But it's also very captivating from the first second; I simply can't keep my nose away from it. Almost annoyingly addictive as it takes your attention completely.

    Very gassy violet note with sour cherries, just a hint of acidic anis and luscious shrubs of caramelisized ivys dominates the first 20-30 minutes before the thick, oddly salty and pleasantly synthetic vanilla-tonka-musk bed in a shade of green takes the center of the stage.

    Forever lasting with radiant sillage, so be carefull on the trigger, especially if you're a chap, think you can pull it off without smelling too pretty. (1-2 sprays will do, no matter if you have nuts or not)


    Great work by gorgeous A.Menardo, although I like some of her other works better, including wonderfully satisfying L. Lempicka Au Masculin.

    23 September, 2011

    orangefiction's avatar

    United States United States

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    Unforgivable by Sean John

    This gets hated on because of its similarities to creed but I think it does a great job of copying a very expensive fragrance and making it more affordable. You can get a 1.7 oz bottle of this for $20 where I live. The smallest creed 1.0 oz bottle is about $100 on sale. I guess I can kind of see where the hate is coming from fans of creed as it devalues this expensive smell and now most people would think you are wearing unforgivable instead of silver mountain water. Further testing is needed but my first impression smelling these two together is that they are almost the same, with the creed being slightly better and higher quality. Creed wins for being the first to make the scent, being a little stronger, and having a much better looking bottle but for me if all you are looking for is a nice smell that smells expensive but it's not, I would go for unforgivable.

    23 September, 2011

    Sadie's avatar

    United States United States

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    Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune by Guerlain

    I was really looking forward to receiving my bottle of this - only to learn that I can not wear it. I adore using grapefruit shower gels, very emotionally uplifting! I was hoping that the fragrance would have the same effect. Alas, after wearing it for around 5-10 minutes something happens that adds a nasty "off" note that completely ruins the scent event. The off note is so persistent that my only choice is to scrub it off.

    I chalk it up to my "Guerlain curse". There seems to be NO Guerlain scent that I can wear. Not Shalimar, not Samsara, and now neither of the Aqua Allegorias that I have tried. The only one that I'm still willing to try is Jicky - if I can find a vintage bottle in my price range.

    23 September, 2011

    orangefiction's avatar

    United States United States

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    No. 88 by Czech & Speake

    Smells like incense and rose. I also get the temple/ headshop/ hippie feel people have mentioned. This is not an everyday scent and I wouldn't even say that it smells good. I can see artists and musicians wearing this one. I might wear this to goth clubs, concerts, and costume parties. It's an interesting smell but the occasions to wear it for me are limited.

    This is a lot more interesting then I first thought. There's soap. There is also a resin/ pot smell somewhere in there. It is more of a clean hippie rather than a dirty hippie smell. I think the mental image is a guy with a couple of tattoos dressed nicely for the office.

    23 September, 2011 (Last Edited: 24 September, 2011)

    orangefiction's avatar

    United States United States

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    Millésime Impérial by Creed

    The opening is exactly like eating a juicy watermelon Starburst candy. After more testing I agree this deserves the hype it gets. It is just so fresh throughout the life of the scent. Projection and longevity is not as bad as I first had thought. And there is a wow factor I don't get with unforgivable although they smell similar. MI starts off with fresh watermelons and SMW starts of with some kind of flower but they end up smelling the same to me. If quality is what you are after you can't go wrong with this one.

    23 September, 2011 (Last Edited: 25 September, 2011)

    orangefiction's avatar

    United States United States

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    Mugler Cologne by Thierry Mugler

    Has a soap smell and not in a good way. I love the smell of soap because its clean and natural smelling. Mugler cologne doesn't smell natural at all it has some synthetic notes that really turn me off.

    23 September, 2011 (Last Edited: 25 September, 2011)

    orangefiction's avatar

    United States United States

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    Silver Mountain Water by Creed

    Smells like orange flowers gradually fading into that great MI/ unforgivable smell. This one is definitely unique and likely to be a more polarizing scent than MI as well. I don't think anyone can hate the smell of watermelon Starburst candy but orange flowers may not be everyone's cup of tea. This one lasts longer and projects stronger than MI for me.

    23 September, 2011 (Last Edited: 25 September, 2011)

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Borneo 1834 by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Straight forward patchouli-cacao. Rich yet not too sweet, masterfully crafted but not incredibly original. After the camphoraceous/spicy opening it settles haflway between A*Men and Parfumerie Generale's Cozè. A beatuiful composition that you'll surely dig if you're into bold head-shop patchouli. Me? A bit too overpowering for my likes. I stick with the PG.

    23 September, 2011 (Last Edited: 13 February, 2012)

    Swanky's avatar

    United States United States

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    273 Indigo for Men by Fred Hayman

    Fred Hayman seems to have an affinity for older fragrances. Both this one and his Touch pay homage to male frags from the past. In Touch's case, Brut was the inspiration. Here, 273 Indigo seems to share some DNA with Byblos, Ricci Club, Open by Roger and Gallet and especially Dolce & Gabbana Pour Homme. 273 Indigo is a downmarket rendition to be sure, but if you like the citrus leather of the aforementioned trio or even Ho Hang, this one may appeal to you as well.

    For the price of a burger and fries, this release offers a throwback aroma (even the bottle looks more '80s inspired than contemporary) that won't be on every other fellow's hide at the lounge. Also, I experience none of the longevity woes with this fragrance that others have noted.

    23 September, 2011 (Last Edited: 26 June, 2012)

    Darvant's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Absinth by Nasomatto

    Grassy, prickly, earthy, rooty, sharp and crazy, this is Absinthe, at least in the main part of its development, before starting finally to soften and go towards a nicer, warmer and slightly smoother mossy and resinous-incensey stage. The juice itself, as usual for Nasomatto, is a mysterious blend of many notes, some of which are apparently more easily detectable as vetiver, artemisia, woods, burnt incense and some final smoothing element as moss and resins. Other notes could possibly have been inserted by Gualtieri  but we have no certainty about ( i mean mushrooms, ortica, angelica, obscure greens, dark tea etc). The essence of artemisia and  the extrait of secret greens produce that sort of wormwood-strong anice-licorice characterizing mould that makes this fragrance immediately recognizable. Only God knows whether wormwood is concretely present in composition or if what we inhale is just the olfactory effect of absinth created by a blend of secret herbs in their extrait. Some floral note emerges sometimes from the dark abysses. The fragranze is persistent even if not as well as Duro or Black Afgano. I detect some similarities with the wonderful  Fou d'Ansinthe by L'Artisan Parfumeur, which is a spicier, sweeter, more lethery and animalic stuff (absith-angelica-spices and animal-leathery notes) and with the more refined Parfum d'Habit (mainly in the first stage because of the similar  usage of musk, vetiver and woods) which is anyway a more woody, clean, refined and leathery kind of juice especially in its dry down.

    23 September, 2011 (Last Edited: 09 July, 2012)

    Scent-e-mental's avatar

    Australia Australia

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    Barbier des Isles by Comptoir Sud Pacifique

    I agree fully with saripatates: this bears a strong resemblance to Yatagan, though I think that it has similarities with Polo Green too. Imagine mixing 1 part Polo to 1 part Yatagan to 1 part ethanol: this comes close to Barbier des Isles. It is much more subdued than Yatagan and a worthy addition to my wardrobe.

    23 September, 2011 (Last Edited: 21st April, 2013)

    Darvant's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Alessandro Dell'Acqua Man by Alessandro Dell'Acqua

    This fragrance conjures at me an horrible, luckily brief, time of my life and over this sphere i feel the tentation to thumbs it down. Over a second and different olfactory path i have to admit that this scent smells good. Alessandro dell'Acqua Man is a warm, spicy and rosey complex aquatic, pleasantly synthetic and with a captivating musk on the base. It starts with a blend of citrus, grapefruit and marine notes and in the following stages warms up due to a bunch of flowers producing a smooth rosey feel, due to a cool and slightly bitter-pungent cardamom and to a velvety woodsy base. A rosey, slightly balmy and velvety musky aquatic with a persistent lukewarm projection.

    23 September, 2011 (Last Edited: 07 January, 2014)

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