Fragrance Reviews from September 2011

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    Darvant's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Kiton Men by Kiton

     The beginning is slightly herbal, aromatic and decidedly citrusy and sweet of fruits and floral notes rising yet from the back. The faint rawness lasts just a while before the scent starts sliding towards a musky smothness with the silky touch of balsams and the smokiness of seasoned woods and tonka. Some flowers as violet and lily of the valley lurk in the air on the side of some light spices and just the violet subdues a bit the smoothness worshipping a fair level of metal drought. The watery, almost salty(woody), feel that the fragrance introduces is pushed up by grapefruit, watery citruses, a touch of lavender, synthetic ozonic notes and violet. Not bad.

    26 September, 2011 (Last Edited: 09 November, 2012)

    drseid's avatar

    United States United States

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    Cool Water by Davidoff

    I used to wear this scent 20+ years ago. I loved it back then, and while I have moved on to other scents, I still have fond memories of Cool Water. It still smells great, and while it is an obvious self-clone by Boudon of his original creation Green Irish Tweed, I will disagree with most by saying I think it is a good one. Considering the superior vintage version of Cool Water can now be had for 1/4 the price, I feel it is an outstanding value for those who love GIT but can't afford it and are willing to get near that classic's greatness. 4 to 4.5 stars out of 5 for the vintage (and a still solid 3 to 3.5 for the current juice).

    26 September, 2011 (Last Edited: 27 December, 2012)

    Shaheen's avatar

    United States United States

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    Guerlain Homme Intense by Guerlain

    Remove the original Homme's sugarcane note and powdery texture, and weaken the mojito accord. Now add wood and rhubarb to the base and a dash of L'instant, and you now have Homme Intense.

    Darker, boozier, and woodier than the original. I like them both equally. I wear Homme during the day, and Homme Intense in the evenings.

    26 September, 2011 (Last Edited: 07 July, 2014)

    The_Cologneist's avatar

    United States United States

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    Sartorial by Penhaligon's

    In a nutshell: Very powdery, very woody, very musky. Usually I hate musk, but this one is very well balanced. You can tell from the get go that there is going to be a slightly animallic musk there; fortunately it dissipates. The leather note quickly shines in the middle and dominates for a while.

    Overall: A barbershop fragrance with a lot more depth. Comforting, smooth, refined. A little bit of this, and a little bit of that. Sits closer to the skin for me, after the first 20 minutes, but can last the whole day.

    27 September, 2011

    The_Cologneist's avatar

    United States United States

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    Opus 1870 by Penhaligon's

    An interesting bland yet spicy opening, giving me not much faith for this one. Once it faded, I became confused. As if I put on an entirely different fragrance. It went from a coriander bomb, to rose, rose, rose. Smooth, and beautiful, is the only way to describe this type of rose note. Slightly fruity, as if somebody poured apple juice or white grape juice all over the rose pedals. A bit feminine though at this point imo (as rose notes tend to sway to the feminine side). A neat salty accord behind the rose note, that keeps my interest.. It becomes a little powdery and musky after a bit. A base of woods is quite dominant, as the note breakdown suggests.

    With this one and these notes: what ya see, is what ya get. Expect those notes listed. I would classify this as an aromatic rose fragrance. It smells less intense on the rose from a distance, than up close.. although the rose may be the key note here, it's not too powerful of a rose note. AKA: This is NO Noir de Noir, for you rose lovers out there. The rose note here eventually becomes a little dirty as it fades down, due to the musk.

    Recommended wear: DATE scent. For sure. This is something you wear when your significant other is close to you. It's an intimate and exotic scent. I give it a neutral rating, because I'm not a huge rose fan, and it hasn't won me over completely yet. But it is without doubt an excellent one from this house.

    27 September, 2011

    The_Cologneist's avatar

    United States United States

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    Extract of Limes by Penhaligon's

    Starts off with a very fresh lime note. E.g. Freshly cut limes, with the juice dripping out. Though as it fades, it becomes more and more synthetic smelling. It manages to maintain it's "lime flavor" until the end though as it mixes well with a noticeable neroli note. I am not a huge neroli fan, usually because the note comes off too powdery a lot of the time; but not in this case. I pretty much just get lime and neroli here.. and uhm.. a little leather? Maybe it's just me though.

    Overall: Pretty good, if ya like lime. Starts off as a zesty, fresh lime, fades into a candy-like lime backed by neroli. Simple, easy, inoffensive. But, is it worth the price? Not to me. I'll take Gap: The Natural, for 8 bucks over this, if lime is what I crave.

    27 September, 2011

    miss mills's avatar

    New Zealand New Zealand

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    J'Adore by Christian Dior

    Charming, infinitely feminine and very floral and clean smelling. I have such mixed feelings for this perfume as it is the one my best friend wore for years and years and I would buy it for her birthday - she passed away so tragically and suddenly last winter that (I feel so emotional just writing this much) now that I have her used bottles that she left behind, the ones I gave to her, every time I smell it I am overcome with longing for my friend to still be here.

    I will buy a purse sized J'Adore to remind me of her always. It was never the scent for me, I am definitely more of a Hypnotic Poison gal but an occasional dab will help keep my precious Cherylee forever alive to me.



    27 September, 2011

    cello's avatar

    United States United States

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    Sicily by Dolce & Gabbana

    This could be a beautiful, soft, tropical feminine fragrance, if I could only get past one accord. There is a sharp, perfumey hairspray like accord that I just cannot get past. My guess is that it is a combination of aldehydes and bergamot. But then, it could just be me.

    If that one accord did not ruin this for me, I would enjoy this banana leaf, tropical floral fragrance with a lovely sandalwood and and faint powdery, musk drydown. It all worked - almost.

    27 September, 2011

    wardamoose's avatar



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    Polo Modern Reserve by Ralph Lauren

    I like the smell of the original Polo but I could in no way wear it on my skin. Its like a thick, hot spice rack. THIS HOWEVER i love. The moment I tried it, i loved it. It isn't as overbearing as the original. Its very very very warm. Be warned though, if you don't like very GREEN scents, you will not like this. I however prefer the very green scents, so this is one of the elite.

    27 September, 2011

    wardamoose's avatar



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    Polo by Ralph Lauren

    Very intriguing scent. Just too strong and bitter.

    27 September, 2011

    cacio's avatar

    United States United States

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    Métal by Paco Rabanne

    A terrifically fresh, dry, green floral sustained by a strange, compelling metallic and oily (in the sense of olive oil) note. I usually abhor the metallic notes in modern masculines, which come off as sharp and unpleasant. Metal, ironically, smells mineral but not at all like those horrors. In a way, it reminds me of Amouage Silver, which pairs a metallic note with rosy flowers. But while Amouage silver feels a little uncomfortable and risks falling into the fresh sporty metal at any time, Metal never veers off course and manages to smell fresh, floral and astringent throughout. It's slowly inching its way up among my favorites.

    27 September, 2011

    fazilicious's avatar



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    L de Lubin by Lubin

    exactly my thoughts....i wore it and am wondering the top note seems familiar and another few seconds passed before i realized the similarity to diorella...only the top note is good....drydown is too sweet

    27 September, 2011

    jPhx's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Réglisse Noire by 1000 Flowers

    I have just received my order of Réglisse Noir and it is absolutely exquisite. The initial flood of liquorice that is just right, not too sweet, is perfect and then ever so gradually it softens to a very mellow spiced blend of the notes. Sillage is good and longevity is also good, as it is just noticeable after seven hours on me although quite close to the skin. The 15ml is a handy pouch size, that was superbly wrapped that is perfect for travelling and the 50ml is a divine bottle for the traditional dresser/bureau. If any of the notes are amongst your favorites then do try this beautiful fragrance. 1000 Flowers Reglisse Noire

    27 September, 2011

    Jack Hunter's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Oxford & Cambridge by Czech & Speake

    One of the best lavender fragrances on the market. The added peppermint and oakmoss base is what makes this one special.

    27 September, 2011

    Jack Hunter's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Havana by Aramis


    A spicy tobacco scent that does not fall into the trap of been to sweet. A fragrance I wish was more readily available.

    27 September, 2011

    Persolaise's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Un Jardin Sur Le Toit by Hermès

    As expected, this is an unostentatious affair, but instead of featuring Jean-Claude Ellena's characteristic, glass-like transparency, it diffuses the light, as though inviting us to imagine that its roof-top idyll is concealed behind a fine mist of rain. Consequently, it isn't as sparkling as it might have been, but still offers plenty of sniff-value. There's a suggestion of fresh herbs, pears, green tomatoes and pale melons, all of which resolve themselves into a lychee and rose accord that's both comfortable and intriguing. I confess I was hoping to smell something with an urban edge - if this is a city garden, where are the exhaust fumes and the wet concrete? - but as an evocation of a tranquil space within the madding crowd, it works well.

    27 September, 2011

    The_Cologneist's avatar

    United States United States

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    Hypnôse Homme by Lancôme

    Different, yet easily becomes boring. A spicy floral top, with a sweet woodsy/musky dry down. Almost identical to Antonio by Antonio Banderas.

    27 September, 2011

    The_Cologneist's avatar

    United States United States

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    Musc Ravageur by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

    Ridiculously overrated. But artwork nevertheless..

    I am not a fan of musk based fragrances, so that impacts my opinion of this. MR opens with a strong animallic musk note (smells like diarrhea). After about 2 hours, the musk falls to the background, and the spicy notes become more dominant (although noticeable in the opening). Clove, clove, clove, and a dash of cinnamon.

    Four hours later.. MMMM. This is what people wait for, and what people love. Many consider this to be 2 or 3 fragrances in one, because of the fact that the note sets seem to project very well in each phase. 8 hours in, and it's projecting as much as it was in the first hour. With that said.. the base (and my favorite part) smells of amber, vanilla, cinnamon, and tonka. Very creamy, sweet, sensual, high quality. Although quite common.

    Quite common base in terms of smell. Cuba Hollywood is quite similar, and a tiny fraction of the price. Of course, the quality is not as good, it's not as smooth either, but I would rather save the money. Not to slander MR, but the final smell is very common.. reminds me of a fragrance from the Playboy line as well, and D&G The One.

    In conclusion, I would say that if you don't like musk, ya may wanna avoid this one. I do give it props for being 2 or 3 fragrances in one. But, if all your after are the base notes, you can do much better elsewhere.

    27 September, 2011

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Absolue Pour Le Soir by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

    As Absolue Pour Le Soir touched my skin I immediately had a feeling of deja-vu. Something familiar but at the same time pleasing and intriguing. It took me a few more minutes to realize that the skanky/animalic opening of this composition bought to my mind of a sort of mash-up between Musc Ravageur and Muscs Koublai Khan. Don't get me wrong, Absolue Pour Le Soir is not similar to either of the afore mentioned fragrances but it surely shares with them the dirty-sexy vibe. It opens with a strong animalic note enriched by benzoin and cedarwood but where Musc Ravageur introduces lavender and turns really soon into a gourmandic spicy vanilla and Muscs Koublai Khan settles into a "cleaner" musky rose, this one stays pretty dark and mantains the intitial skunky vibe throughout. Honeyed rose and smoky frankincense make their appearance in the middle phase adding extra boldness and a dense syrupy aspect.

    Overall I'd say that APLS represents a step forward among dark muscs and brings this kind of fragrances to a brand new level where the challenging animalic nuances are enriched by incredible refinements and details. Not for everybody, but if you think MKK is too challenging/rough and Musc Ravageur turns too soon into a gourmandic vanilla, Absolue Pour Le Soir could be a valid option. Personally I rank it among my favorite compositions in its genre.

    27 September, 2011

    Minkymaid's avatar

    England England

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    Iperborea by Lorenzo Villoresi

    I'm a recent buyer of Yerbamate and was looking forward to trying more from Lorenzo Villoresi. Sadly Iperborea lacked any of the surprise,depth or changing mystery of the former. Iperborea is sweet, pleasant but not stop in your tracks delicious. On me a mixture of baby lotion and 70s Ambre Solaire suntan oil. Neither a scent that I associate with luxury or art! The monolithic sweetness could have been better if the scent was light. Oddly I couldn't smell it at all for the first few minutes, then it revealled a heavy linear sweetness for several hours before disappearing as though it had never been there.

    27 September, 2011

    scenternerian's avatar

    United States United States

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    Zino Davidoff by Davidoff

    cool, fresh, herbaceous, smoky all in one.... confident and easy to wear. it's something Connery would wear. the drydown is an exceptionally light and breezy. a masterpiece.

    27 September, 2011

    Scent-imental's avatar

    United States United States

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    Shalimar by Guerlain

    I got a sample of this from Escentual, and have given myself a hefty dose. I'm not a fan of bergamot, something I've only discovered since joining Basenotes, and luckily, that note disappeared fairly quickly, although it was not as unpleasant as some I've encountered. I would love to have smelled the original formulation way back in the mists of time, however I'm content enough with the current blend, and not suffering any of that angst, so many Basenoters feel about the reformulations of fragrances. (I do however have a particular angry feeling about Lanvin's Arpege i got in the 80's and the reformulated article somewhere around 2006)

    I'm breathing in a powdery aroma, and having read some of the reviews, people seem to associate powdery with old ladies, whereas i associate it with babies and youth. It doesn't seem at all "old People home" to me, and its uplifting for me, in the powdery stage. The sillage of this one, seems to carry the powdery notes, and i expect people will smell that around me, until i shove my neck rudely in their faces, and demand they comment on this new scent I'm trying.

    But where i love it most, is the nose-to-skin smell where i get an animalistic emanation, and the iris and opopanax are readily apparent, someone also mentioned an incense-y kind of aura, and I'm feeling that as well. Now, also the vanilla is waving hello to me, shyly, coyly popping its sweet little head up and saying "Hey, I'm here too!!"

    I never tried it before because the name puts me off, i don't like it at all, however, contempt prior to investigation has deprived me of something i may well choose to be my signature fragrance. I am actually going up to my mother's house to "appropriate" one of her 2 bottles of this.

    It's lovely, and i shalll be resting my nose somewhere down my cleavage, with eyes closed, breathing in this classic fragrance whilst watching Tv tonight. Thanks Guerlain

    27 September, 2011

    CrunK's avatar



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    Chergui by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Not at all what I expected, although that's not necessarily a bad thing...

    After having read all the reviews on here though, I do find myself a little disappointed. I would stick with the concensus of it being a sweet fragrance with something dark lurking behind. A very recognisable honey (and hay?) make up all the sweetness for me, with tobacco also present and it develops into... nothing really, at least for me. Projection is moderate, which suits the fragrance well, and longevity is impressive. Seems very well blended. Price point is quite good for a niche also, I've seen 50ml bottles for £50 online.

    But overall it's not something that I'd really want to wear - even though I can appreciate it, it's uninspiring, and not really worthy of all the hype for me.

    27 September, 2011

    Darvant's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Cathedral by Neil Morris Fragrances

    I completely agree with Odisseusm, this one is more a leathery-floral than a smoky-incensey concoction under my nose. The sweetness is made of florals, balsams and talky elements in the way the scent becomes powdery, sweetly resinous and leathery (leather and labdanum) in the final development. Some dark woods shadow a bit the juice but it lacks that liturgical, gothic and darkly spiritual temperament of Dzongkha, Black Tourmaline or Avignon while is neither sophisticated and deliciously spicy as Black Cashmere or Wazamba nor aromatic or balsamic as Encense Epices or Cardinal. An incensey fragrance that didn't strike at all my taste.

    27 September, 2011

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Grafton by Truefitt & Hill

    An aromatic green/herbaceous fougere that can do great on the Tsar/Gucci Nobile axis. Woodier than the former and stronger than the latter but never loud. A classic barbershop style composition.

    27 September, 2011

    shamu1's avatar

    United States United States

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    Patchouli by Santa Maria Novella

    Yep, the other reviewers are right: SMN are not screwing around here. What, you don't love patchouli? Then get the hell out of here! We're not making this for you!! Even the dark brown color of the juice is scary, and this is a scary fragrance if you don't like patchouli.

    Dark, raw, damp and aggressive are the words that best describe this scent. I find it more versatile than most people, though. You can dab it on with the splash bottle, and it provides a nice, relatively discreet, aromatic patchouli scent that smells pretty classy. I'm a lawyer, and I wear this scent to Court and business meetings often. On the other hand, if you want to be macho man or smell like a hippie, you can douse yourself in this and blast everyone off the map. It projects very well and the scent lasts all day.

    This is my favorite patchouli, and I own a lot of patchouli fragrances. I love it mainly for its versatility and purity.

    MY RATING: 9/10

    27 September, 2011

    bearbo1965's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Ambre Précieux by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

    A real masterpiece in "Amber" scents kind.... Warm, embracing like a cachemire skarf, just a little spicy accent... and then the powerful but gentle presence of ambergris that lasts for so long.... so intoxicating but incredibly wearable.... this is the ultimate amber scent you can experience.

    27 September, 2011

    jessebellescotch's avatar



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    Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert by Bulgari

    Simply the best......the absolute perfect combination of spicy and sweet. Every quest to locate a new and "better" scent is fruitless. I have worn this since the mid 1990s and have yet to find anything that can compare. Need to buy in bulk!!!!!

    27 September, 2011

    Minkymaid's avatar

    England England

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    Iskander by Parfum d'Empire

    Lime. At the start. At the middle and well, at the end. Even the lovely chap at Les Scenteurs scratched his head in surprise when this utterly failed to do anything other than lime on me. It's not even listed in the notes, but this failed to develop from lime into anything else. Bizarre. However if you like lime ( and I am not adverse to it) and want a long lasting citrus, you may want to give it a try as I guess it's odd non-development was a querk of it and my body chemistry rather than the intention of the fragrance itself. However I can only give it a neutral vote because I, personally, can't pay that much money to be ... A lime.

    27 September, 2011

    Oh_Hedgehog's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Verte Violette by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    More verte than violette. Within the first hour one spies a glimmer of Après L'Ondée's poignancy, when the violet, iris and heliotrope fall into step, but after this Verte Violette becomes quickly overgrown with lilacs and the drydown is sappy, musky and irritatingly prolonged. Violets and lilacs can both make for extraordinary fragrances (for example, Bois de Violette and En Passant, respectively); and the reference to Après L'Ondée is hardly something to be ashamed of. But Verte Violette feels like a very slack effort, satisfied with being conventionally pretty, and is probably best suited to people with an imagination deficit.

    27 September, 2011

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