Fragrance Reviews from September 2011

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    rickbr's avatar

    Brazil Brazil

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    Art Collection #08 by Jacomo

    Trying Jacomo #08 today, and honestly i expected more from it. What i get seems more a mixture of inspirations than something at its own. The idea is not bad, a spicy, fresh, slightly milky tea aroma, but it`s not so original. It reminds me some aspects of Declaration Cartier, Kenzo Jungle Homme and Tea For Two by L'Artisan Parfumeur. It opens with a cardamom-cumin like aroma that reminds me some aspects of Declaration (more of declaration essence i think). There is a certain spicy greeness of it that makes me think of Jungle Homme too. The dark tea and spices makes it distantly related to Tea For Two, but without the exotic aura of tea for two.
    I don`t like how the scent evolutes. It doesn`t sustain the idea, fading to a skinscent after a short period of 2 hours. What comes next is uninspiring, washed musky ambered accord that retains a hint of the milk aspect. It`s not what i expected from it, in my opinion both #9 and #2 are far better constructed.

    07 September, 2011

    rickbr's avatar

    Brazil Brazil

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    Art Collection #02 by Jacomo

    #02 turned to be my favorite fragrance from this line. I didn`t expected much from it after Chandlerr Burr review that said it was a better version of Code, but it turned out that to me this statement showed to be false. Even that Code and #02 use tonka as an important part of their evolution, #02 receives a different base to nest the tonka, one which is consistent and cozy, perfect for winter. I don`t get the bergamot or lily at this one, it seems to go on me straight to the base notes. At first there is a certain sweet and brown resinous aroma to it, that i thougt it was opoponax. Takin more attention i noticed it was the comibination of vanilla, amber and patchouli producing it. The vanilla is the sweet part, while the patchouli and amber mimetizes the smoky, powdery aspects, adding a discreet woodiness to the idea. The tonka seems to develop on the top of those notes, like a top and middle note. Here the tonka reminds me of the delicious tonka of Tonka Imperiale, one which has a controled sugared sweetness that for me is distant connect to a syrup idea. The tonka goes in and out of focus between the basenotes, and after 3 hours it fades entirely leaving you with a balance base of vanilla, patchouli and amber.
    If i would pick one to purchase, it`d be this one.

    07 September, 2011

    Diamondflame's avatar

    Singapore Singapore

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    Fleurs de Rocaille by Caron

    I have been wanting to smell FLEURS DE ROCAIILE since I watched Scent of A Woman in the 1992. Nearly 2 decades later, I have finally acquired a little of it in parfum extrait.

    Quite simply, this is an aldehydic floral done right. There is a slight animalic tone to the opening but nothing I would describe as 'poop'. Perhaps the vintage version is much more animalic? Anyway kudos to Ernest Daltroff for achieving such a fine balance. On some days, the rose or the carnation gets a little more airtime but often it graces the air like a refined floral bouquet. I find it timeless and quite elegant, just perfect for a lady.






    07 September, 2011

    Leilahdancer's avatar

    United States United States

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    J'Adore by Christian Dior

    Well, now. I've worn J'Adore EDP for a few years now, but I have only recently begun to expand my understanding of fragrance. I really wish the notes were listed for this, because I'm sure my ignorant nose will miss all the good stuff!

    I like the opening with fresh, white flowers and bit of soap. The middle came on as quite soapy and I don't like it quite as well. The dry down though... that I love. A little musk with some floral and hint of fresh baked cookie.

    The sillage has been perfect, so far. I've only had it on for three hours now. We'll see how the longevity goes.

    My new education tells me I still like this, but I wish the middle was less soapy.

    07 September, 2011

    Leilahdancer's avatar

    United States United States

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    Red by Giorgio Beverly Hills

    I love the top notes on this: crisp, spicy floral and fruit. Once that calms down, the middle is a little overblown, fruity floral. Like a teenager's scent. But I really enjoy the warm, spicy, musky drydown.

    I'm glad it's not expensive, as I wouldn't want to pay a lot for it. But I wouldn't mind owning a bottle, at all.

    Sillage and longevity were spot on.

    07 September, 2011

    Bartlebooth's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Kouros Energizing Tonique by Yves Saint Laurent

    Energizing Tonique quickly breaks out of the orbit of the original, but lacks the character and quality to make a mark in its own right.

    It all begins promisingly enough, a crisp citrus opening, lightly composed and positively eager to please. However, it quickly becomes apparent that this is largely all that there is going to be. A skin dwelling fragrance that perhaps may be of use in climes featuring high temperatures and humidity. To anyone else, this variant of Kouros is largely superfluous.

    It's only likely to be purchased by relatives mistaking it for the original, or by collectors as yet unbowed by the seemingly inexhaustible supply of flankers.

    07 September, 2011

    silentrich's avatar

    United States United States

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    Antidote by Viktor & Rolf

    Gets a big thumbs up for presentation. Beautiful bottle and packaging. The scent itself is something of a question mark. Smells like an incense version of Egoiste most of the time. Different notes come out in different seasons. Indoors I get more of the incense. In the summer heat I get more of the top and heart notes which becomes more of a spicy and sweet fragrance. When it's cooler it's more of the base with the tonka bean. Very unique and versatile fragrance that seems to get a bad rap for being boring. Boring? Are you kidding me? Thumbs up!

    07 September, 2011

    Diamondflame's avatar

    Singapore Singapore

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    Eau de Réglisse by Caron

    While the lemon verbena top note is as refreshing as verbena goes, there is a warm almost milky chocolatey undertone (I presume from the patchouli & vanilla in the base) that spells out 'gourmand' to me. That's not a good thing if you don't like gourmands and I generally don't. At times it even reminds me of Cartier Roadster sans the mint or L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme. And what about the licorice note? Nothing to write home about I'm afraid.

    EAU DE REGLISSE is hardly a bad fragrance but as far as Carons go, it is not too far removed from mediocrity. I'll pass.

    07 September, 2011

    L'homme vert's avatar

    Australia Australia

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    Brumes by Le Galion

    A highly complex floral/aromatic aldehyde created by Paul Vacher for the perfume house of 'Le Galion' in the late 1930's, one of several parfums included in a concert of offerings known as his Fantasy collection. The parfum opens with warm anisic/herbal notes containing tarragon & galbanum followed by a rich spicy rose/carnation heart saturated with other lush floral absolutes widely used in high perfumery at the time. The liberal use of lavender and grey amber adds a slightly ozonic marine accord to the heady & sweet lilac, heliotrope & jasmine. Evocative of warm fragrant summer days in the south of France, from the golden fields of hay stacks and narcissus blooms to the rolling surf spray of the Cote D'azur. One more classic fragrance lost to the ether of so many decades, a defining creation for it's time and a testament to the genius of Paul Vacher.

    07 September, 2011

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Epic Woman by Amouage

    An humongous spicy oriental that shares quite a few similarities with both Chanel's Egoiste and Bois Des Iles. Cinnamon and some sweet (almost candied) citrus on top joined by floral patterns and laying on an extremely solid ambery/vannilla base. Oud pairs off with rose but they are masterfully blended with the rest to never become overwhelming or even particularly detectable. Frankincense lurks in the back together with a subtle iris note remarking their presence and adding detailed refinements to this wonderful smelling nebula.

    Overall, Epic Woman, is rich and opulent, bold and intense but at the same time very wearable. It strikes you like an embracing concoction where all the elements are perfectly blended together to create a smell that could be described as a velvet sphere. An unique solid body that's absolutely perfect in its smooth roundness.

    It does great also on a man.

    07 September, 2011

    Sunsetspawn's avatar

    United States United States

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    Gigli Man by Romeo Gigli

    You can't go wrong with this one. It's fresh, green, floral, woodsy, and a little bit fruity. Now when I say woodsy I don't mean, "smells like wood." I mean "smells like being in the woods." To be more specific, the woodsy aspect is like "being in the woods after a rainfall." It is very "safe" though, so if you're looking for something wild and daring then you should just keep on looking. I would guess that winter would be the only season that Gilgli Man wouldn't be terribly appropriate for, but it's so nice that it wouldn't REALLY matter if you did wear it. Also, it really compliments a rainy day.

    I find that I'm drawn to wear this disproportionately often, and although that's vague praise, experienced basenoters understand.

    07 September, 2011

    silentrich's avatar

    United States United States

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    Cereus pour Homme No. 11 by Cereus

    Mainly get a peppery vetiver throughout the life of the fragrance. The anise note isn't a prominent note like it is in Lolita Lempicka. It's more on the lines of the star anise in Rive Gauche. It's a pleasant enough, but doesn't stand out from the crowd and it's price is what makes it a no go.

    07 September, 2011 (Last Edited: 17 September, 2011)

    Foustie's avatar

    Scotland Scotland

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    28 La Pausa by Chanel

    The one word to describe 28 La Pausa is simply "lovely". It is delicate but luxurious. Modern yet classical. Wearing this will make you FEEL lovely.

    This is the lightest, brightest, Iris that I have encountered. I think that this is because there is Lilac in this composition, which imparts a cut crystal "ting" which elevates the Iris from the earth to the heavens....of course I could be wrong. But not about the loveliness. That is not negotiable.

    07 September, 2011 (Last Edited: 25 September, 2011)

    Foustie's avatar

    Scotland Scotland

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    Pot Pourri by Santa Maria Novella

    I love this old thing. It really is quite unique in my experience. It is aromatic, camphoraceous, resinous. Very difficult to describe in fact. All that I can say is that is seems to have some, or all, of the following, Eucalyptus, Clove, Rosemary, Lavender, Camphor, Juniper, Nutmeg, Cinnamon. Sometimes I think that I can smell Liquorice, Rose, Immortelle. For a more accurate analysis you may wish to see Odysseusm below, but these are my impressions.

    What I can say with confidence is that in my opinion it is unusual in how it wears. Initially this works like your most refreshing Eau De Cologne. It is exceptionally bracing and uplifting. But then it continues to wear in a lower key, with a quiet confidence. Incense, spice, words like comfortable, comforting, confident, salubrious, all come to mind. That is rather a lot to get from one fragrance, don't you agree?

    SMN Pot Pourri will not be to everyones taste, definately not, but surely it is a "must try" and if you do love it, like I do, I can tell you that it will become an old friend.

    Having commented on the uniqueness of this fragrance I feel that it is only fair to mention Heeley Esprit Du Tigre as I am sure that comparisons will be made eventually. HEDT has a minty opening, after which clove bud oil is very dominant for a time, and yes, here we have some similarities, but not for long.

    07 September, 2011 (Last Edited: 03 October, 2011)

    Darvant's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Apparition Homme by Ungaro

    This fragrance, while not being an infamous or particularly mediocre creation , exudes lack of complexity or better absence of real distinction in a way it pales in comparison with its great predecessors, in particular Ungaro l and Ungaro lll. I find it youthful and sparkling in a way it reminds me a bit the taste of some vermouths or some italian light liquors. I smell basically a fresh aromatic green-woody scent with a common woodsy masculine base and a sort of aquatic and fruity tart initial temperament which lasts for less than an half part of the development. The initial blast is very fruity, citrusy and kind of lavender with its aquatic link of mandarin-cucumber-tea soon flavoured by a touch of aromatic and mentholated anice. This kind of starting is a bit too crude and synthetic in my opinion. The link of rhubarb, anice, black pepper and licorice wood creates a sort of herbal-liquorous smell that reminds the taste of some digestive liqueurs and sets immediately an aromatic gummy-tarry barrage for the advancement of the aquatic feel which is too faint to resist at clash. As well as the initial fruity-watery aromatic beat starts fading and the influence of the tea note and prickly liquor plays its role, the watery feel slows down and the masculine touch of cedar, wood and vetiver envelops the elements. The aromatic taste of anice and licorice, turned prickly and sparkling by the note of black pepper, influences broadly each stage of the trip. The dry down is a bit common being a light remembrance of the final development of some classic aromatic fougere or chypre. I smell the association with GIT by Creed and Cool Water with a less aquatic temperament and an addition of bitter-sweet liquor. Well balanced. Longevity and sillage are in the average.

    07 September, 2011 (Last Edited: 13 December, 2011)

    silentrich's avatar

    United States United States

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    Cereus Pour Homme No. 14 by Cereus

    Cereus No 14 is the only EdP in the Cereus lineup and probably the best of the line. For those that enjoy Fahrenheit the violet leaf will make you feel right at home. I should also mention that the cognac note in this is fantastic. That along with the clary sage, rosemary, and tarragon really make this a comforting and pleasurable fragrance to wear. I also enjoy Cereus No.7, but in my opinion this one is the grown up version of that. Sillage and longevity are good and this is one that will get some compliments. Great fragrance to wear anywhere at anytime. Really like this one.

    07 September, 2011 (Last Edited: 12 March, 2013)

    silentrich's avatar

    United States United States

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    L'Homme Sage by Divine

    Combine L' Air du Desert Marocain and By Killian's Back to Black and this would be the result. Minus the over the top amber and tone down the spices of L'Air du Desert Marocain plus the toned down tobacco note in Back to Black. During the heart the sweetness fades and what your left with throughout the life of the fragrance is a smooth patchouli and incense. Takes a good nose to fully appreciate it, but if you've been around the fragrance block a few times you'll immediately recognize that it's a quality fragrance. Sillage is perfect for this kind of fragrance and longevity is excellent. Very nice indeed.

    08 September, 2011

    jtd's avatar

    United States United States

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    L'Instant de Guerlain by Guerlain

    As the name implies, tutti frutti refers to a dessert of a mix of fruits. A compote, an ice cream or the like made of various fruits where the fruit flavors enhance each other. Tutti frutti in the language of commercial flavor production has also come to mean one particular flavor: bubblegum. L'Instant, while well-composed and well-behaved is a tutti flori in the manner of the latter tutti frutti. L'Instant isn't exactly bland, just indistinct. It's a blur of the sultry floral set: lily, magnolia, ylang-ylang and others, forming a sort of pan-tropical note that flattens out when bolstered by a matter of course vanilla and musk.

    Less an idealized abstract floral, or a well-matched bouquet; more an actually loud, but conceptually hazy floral flavor. Lack of evolution over time only exacerbates the problem.

    08 September, 2011

    sherapop's avatar

    United States United States

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    L'Inspiratrice by Divine

    Divine L'INSPIRATRICE is a rich, smooth, and viscous oriental perfume whose primary appeal to me lies in the drydown, at the culmination of a journey through a couple of oriental twists and turns, beginning with a rather boozy opening stage. There are a lot of rose-patchouli perfumes to choose from these days, and those notes number among the components of L'INSPIRATRICE, but to my nose, this is much more of an amber-esque oriental than either a rose or a sweet patchouli composition.

    After a rather boozy opening, this perfume eventually arrives at a gorgeously golden, slightly sweet amberish drydown with a touch of patchouli. As is generally the case with hefty orientals, this one has both fairly big sillage and excellent longevity. I find the opening of L'INSPIRATRICE slightly less inspiring, though it's certainly not bad, but the drydown if not quite divine, is certainly very nice.

    08 September, 2011

    Sunsetspawn's avatar

    United States United States

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    Jubilation XXV by Amouage

    Let's see...

    jam? maybe
    jelly? maybe
    marmalade? maybe

    Fruit Roll-ups?
    YES!!!

    Unfortunately this is all I get from this "masterpiece." Where's the incense? Where's the frankenfurter? Where's the complex, woody, spicy, yada yada yada? Am I posting in a troll thread?

    It doesn't matter. Truth be told, the smell isn't bad, and it is actually a higher quality smell than the ACTUAL fruit roll-up smell. Still though, I don't really have any inclination to wear this again.

    08 September, 2011

    BetsyMeszaros's avatar

    United States United States

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    Joy by Jean Patou

    This was my sister's favorite perfume. As a matter of fact when I got married I forgot to perfume myself with my signature scent, Shalimar, and my sister put her Joy on me. This is a very sentimental perfume for me.

    I recently was given a sampler of Joy EDT and liked it. So I bought a vintage bottle of Joy which I discovered was just okay to me. Today I compared them wearing one on one wrist and one on the other. I can't see a lot of difference at first except the Joy EDT was more wearable to me as it was slightly lighter. My husband thinks the EDT smells like soap. An hour later the EDT was gone and the Joy had reached a beautiful depth. So, I have to recommend my vintage Joy perfume over the more recent EDT.

    That being said, I will always like this but I will never love it the way I do some other perfumes.

    08 September, 2011

    silentrich's avatar

    United States United States

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    Brit for Men by Burberry

    This is a review of Burberry Brit Limited Edition since it's not in the directory. To sum it up it's a darker version of the original Brit with the top notes and powdery aspect toned down. Throw in Bay leaf and Incense and it becomes a very cozy sitting in front of a fireplace fragrance. I wouldn't wear this on a daily basis, but for shopping with the wife in the cold weather, a date at the ice rink, picking up the Christmas tree, or spending holidays with the relatives it's perfect. I don't care for the original Brit, but this one is a little more bearable.

    08 September, 2011

    mrclmind's avatar

    United States United States

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    Eau de Cologne by Chanel

    I am partial to the Guerlain Eaux. However, this Chanel offering holds its own next to them. What sets the Chanel apart from so many other EDC scents available is the huge amount of high quality neroli oil used. This scent is fleeting of course, but great while it lasts.

    08 September, 2011

    alfarom's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Muguet du Bonheur by Caron

    Muguet Du Bonheur is far from being a successful fragrance, expecially considering it's from Caron. Lily of the valley, some other white flowers, and green nuances on a clean musky base. Somewhere between a cheap moisturizing lotion and an household product. We've seen this iteration too many times.

    08 September, 2011

    Bartlebooth's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Caractère by Daniel Hechter

    There is something very substantial beneath the surface of Caractere that is never brought into the open. Perhaps Hechter decided that at the end of a decade of excess, enough was enough. It’s a real shame as it is only a few clicks away from being something quite excellent. Instead, I find when I am wearing it that I am reminded of something else, and inevitably something better.

    Initially a flat citrus sheen is draped across a slightly dirty opening, but it’s quickly clear that it is obscuring a deep sonorous presence. The elongated cedarwood note that traverses the middle to late phases is likely to polarise opinion. Personally, I find it lends the fragrance a rather bland dry air for too long, and it is only when it recedes in the drydown that matters settle into a comforting leather and moss base.

    Hechter's Caractere mines the same fragrant seam as Antaeus, but without really producing the quality and output of Chanel.

    08 September, 2011

    jtd's avatar

    United States United States

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    Elixir des Merveilles by Hermès

    Elixir des Merveilles is an almost, almost, not-quite. How fun that Hermès, with its emphasis on luxury, taste and class distinction, the first step to which is clear identifiability to those who desire them, would make such a neither/nor fragrance. Orange peel, but not edible (almost gourmand.) Chewy, resinous woodiness (almost oriental.) A tonka basenote that takes the edge off the sweetness (not quite fougère.)

    There is a density, a viscosity that suggests something highly caloric, but I think is more of an illusion of orange over a dense peru balsam, incense and a cedar-like sandlewood. (Assumedly Australian sandlewood. If so, a wonderful use of what has been consdered the poor cousin to the depleted mysore sandlewood.)

    The risk is that Elixir might read as indistinct. The upshot is that it suggests an ambiguity that can be very alluring, and as most men tend to steer clear of ambiguity in fragrance, perhaps Elixir would make a great men's fragrance.

    08 September, 2011

    jtd's avatar

    United States United States

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    Gelsomini di Capri by Carthusia

    I expected this to be a 'pretty' fragrance. Loads of floral elements. A slight shift, I find it quite handsome. The florals are vaguely high-pitched (jasmine, orange blossom, ylang-ylang) in the top-notes, but are all are all reigned-in by a leading geranium note. Into the heart, there's a good bit of a dirty, sweaty feel, but this point seems more like an inflection of the floral, and not stand-alone skanky.

    Wonderfully, the sweetness fades in the heart, and a rather earthy, though not vulgar, floral tone (again, lots of the geranium still in play) carries the day. It's a very outdoorsy floral feel, more like a garden than a bouquet, and the underbelly notes (indoles, a sweaty feel) grow without ever becoming overwhelming. While not a chypre, Gelsomini becomes a down-to-earth scent, finding a well-worn feel similar in tone to the green/leather chypres.

    08 September, 2011

    Mar Azul's avatar

    Bulgaria Bulgaria

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    parfums*PARFUMS Series 3 Incense: Ouarzazate by Comme des Garçons

    Bitter, spicy cedar, herbs drying in the autumn and apothecary drawers. I still wonder where did I found incense the first time I smelled it.

    08 September, 2011

    Galvatron77's avatar

    Brazil Brazil

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    Lynx Twist by Axe / Lynx

    I like it , very fresh and brisk , the lemon note is very pleasent.
    Thumbs up !

    08 September, 2011

    Bartlebooth's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Aventus by Creed

    Aventus lives up to the law of inverse substance. The greater the hyperbole and pretentious marketing, the less actual substance exists.

    Initially I was unsure whether it was a stream of intermittently nuanced accords, or a very safe concoction designed to appeal to the many and genuinely impress the few. Having sampled this at some length, I remain unimpressed, more so when I consider the premium being charged for such creative minimalism.

    Aventus is simply rafts of fragrant clichés lashed together to create a pontoon of banality.

    08 September, 2011

    Showing 211 to 240 of 975.