Fragrance Reviews from December 2012

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    Pimpinett's avatar

    Sweden Sweden

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    Krasnaya Moskva / Red Moscow by Novaya Zarya

    I have a very old bottle of Krasnaya Moskva, a very simple, slightly rounded rectangular bottle with a tiny red and gold sticker and a glass stopper; mid-century or thereabouts. According to the consignment shop ladies who sold it to me it came from a very old Hungarian lady who escaped to Sweden in the 'fifties; they, and in turn me, also got a number of other vintage fragrances from her.

    The Krasnaya Moskva I have is a sweet and heady floriental, heavy on the rose and carnation with a mildly spicy, vanillic base. It's loud, brash, warm and very powdery. I like carnation notes, I like powder and I like this old-fashioned style in perfume, so I enjoy it very much both on it's own actual merits, as a classic carnation fragrance, and for the historical connotations it carries for me. Well worth a sniff, and maybe more if you like carnation.

    01st December, 2012

    Assiduosity's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Hypnotic Poison by Christian Dior

    Day three of my walk on the wild side and into the shady alleys of femme fragrance. Having been placed under the spell of Shalimar and being broken by Tabu, was I man enough to take my Dior Poison?

    The English expression goes 'What's your Poison?' meaning what will you take to drink, or these days what will you take to get you high?

    Perhaps it's this sentiment of imminent undoing that Dior had in mind when naming this 80s fragrance held by many as a manly masterpiece and much-emulated not least by the house itself with flankers including Dior Hypnotic Poison with which I am primarily concerned.

    Whilst the name vein of 'My Sin', 'Vol de Nuit' and of course, 'Opium' with their suggestions of the improper, the dissolute, the dangerous or despicable may be what is being mined here the scent itself is a much more restrained and altogether polite and well mannered creature.

    It is always alarming when a fragrance carries a direct connection to a memory - mother in childhood, school bully, first kiss, first boss, first wife... But when the memory is more recent and more focused then the sensation I can assure is all the more unsettling for its precision and being freshly cut.

    For that is the sensation that swept me up on encountering Poison Hypnotic.

    It smells of an actual luxury hotel in a busy port on the Aegean: a Levantine city known throughout the world for the production of figs. Not vaguely, not reminiscently or nostalgically. Precisely.

    This is the odour of the bed linens, the almonds in the lounge, the beautifully planted and kept gardens, the towels by the pool. This is the perfume of a vacation I took just weeks ago.

    So what you say? Well, here's the rub: the hotel is the perfect reflection of all this scent is and is not. The hotel was no old world glamourous grande dame, no Ritz, Place Vendome, no Savoy.

    No more was it an overgrown Alice in Wonderland design boutique behemoth. No see through second Empire chairs no fascinating and impractical bathrooms.

    No, the hotel was brilliantly designed in the understated manner of the Swiss owners. A Barcelona chair here, walls covered with sleek panels of walnut and beaten brown leather, five light settings for the room at the touch of a button. Wonderfully conceived and very, perhaps all too considered.

    And so it is with Poison Hypnotic: the notes are in their places parts learnt, well directed and thoroughly rehearsed. But vanilla, nut, wood, damson, jasmine all come together in a way that could, should be sensuous and dark but end up being, dependable.

    This liquor is an exercise in beautifully crafted and sophisticated dependability.

    Perfect in a hotel, less than perfect in a perfume.

    But though perfection is not achieved - can it be without surprise, excitement, the touch of an artist rather than a craftsman? That is not to say that this isn't a solid piece of work for the scent exudes safety rather than just being safe - a sense of comfort in a world of turmoil, a fine hotel in an unknown city, unseen cashmere socks on a first date.

    This safety even extends to a slight antiseptic quality - noticed instantly by a friend - the caraway perhaps? This dentist's mouthwash note is the only welcome sign that this well oiled machine wasn't created by an expert committee after months of deliberation.

    Would I wear it? Certainly. Both this and Dior Midnight Poison read as male crossovers. For a business meeting or away in an unfamiliar place, for a walk across town on a busy day when I want to be contained in my own little aura of inaccessibility or at home in those cashmere socks with a difficult book.

    I don't mean to sound mean, and I understand one can't have grand opera every day.

    Sophisticated, beautifully put together and dependable - ultimately that adds up to admirable, but impossible to get truly excited about.

    What's my Poison? Well in this case certainly no dirty martini, not even a Manhattan and champagne would just be too flash. Let's settle on an excellent buttery white Burgundy.

    01st December, 2012

    rogalal's avatar

    United States United States

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    Allure Eau de Toilette by Chanel

    Sorry Chanel. I'm often a fan, but this is just a generic pink pepper fruity floral. From 1996, this may actually be the perfume that started (or at least popularized) the genre, but that's not enough for me to enjoy this.

    It's got a fairly nice peach skin top, with just a pinch of powder underneath, as well as an unusual chemical buzz that makes the whole thing smell fuzzy and comforting. Then there's that fruitchouli pink pepper base, which is apparent right from the start. Eventually, the fuzzy peach makes way for a slightly clovey mix of carnation and other florals, but the star of the show is always that sweet pink pepper.

    I apologize, but here and now in 2012, when some mediocre designer or celebrity wants to put out a perfume that smells like everything else, it smells like this, so it's really impossible for me to give Allure anything but a thumbs down, despite any possible historical significance or my respect for the house.

    01st December, 2012

    inspectorkane's avatar



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    Allure Homme Sport by Chanel

    Let me first start off by saying, I don't know what is wrong with the people saying this cologne is no good, or just OK. I have been buying fragrances for years, and I currently own at least 50 of them. This is BY FAR one of the best ever made!! Do yourself a favor and don't listen to those saying otherwise... They have terrible taste apparently! GIRLS go nuts over this stuff. It is one of the most pleasant smelling colognes I have ever come across! Synthetic? No it's not... And really, who cares if it is... This gets the job done! This embodies so many scents in the one fragrance - It is very fresh and clean and also has a little spice, woods, citrus, etc. Just buy it! TRUST ME!

    01st December, 2012

    sjg3839's avatar

    United States United States

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    Diesel Zero Plus by Diesel

    Powdery cinnamon frag which is very synthetic. Not a horrible frag, just wan't for me. I gave this one away.

    This one can be purchased pretty cheap now.

    01st December, 2012

    Erictor29's avatar



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    Kapsule Woody by Lagerfeld



    I own many fragrances such as Creed Aventus, Chanel Colognes, Pure Malt along with 30 other nice scents however I never received compliments like I've received while wearing Kapsule- Woody.

    I purchased Kapsule-Woody last week from an outlet mall and the first time I wore this scent my wife kept telling me how nice I smelled. Now I've worn many fragrances around her but I've "never" received attention from her regarding a scent that I've worn.

    It gets better. I decided to try this scent in the office this week and it didn't take long for woman to notice this hidden jewel. A very attractive woman that I work with gave me a compliment that amazed me! She walk over to my desk yesterday and said "you smell really good today." She's never done that before. My only regret is not buying this fragrance earlier.

    There's something about Kapsule's dry down that women really love! I've only had this scent for a week and the compliments just keep coming!

    Because of the reasonable price this is a definite blind buy.

    01st December, 2012

    OCNBreeze7's avatar

    United States United States

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    Deseo for Men by Jennifer Lopez

    Good Juice... Needs to last longer...


    I am not a huge fan of J-Lo, but wanted to try this juice. Not too shabby..!! The reviews on Basenotes are critical, but Amazon are quite positive - what is the real deal..?? The deal is that this juice is unique - yeah, I hear those "na-sayers" that it is a run of the mill spicy woodsy scent, but there is something different here. I generally am not a fan of the spicy woodsy fragrances, but I will wear this routinely.


    Deseo comes out of the gates with a blend of clean and fresh citrus/floral and then hits you with the woodsy notes and finishes there. The fragrance fades fairly quickly, barely detectable at five (5) hours but at skin level just after about 2-3 hours. Early projection and sillage is positive, then you guessed it, fading after that.. Sweetie gives credence to the Wow Factor, strongly complimenting/endorsing Deseo, which works for me - I should stipulate she is fond of the woodsy fragrances (me - I prefer the aquatic citrus fragrances...)


    I would also offer that Deseo is appropriate for any time of year and any occasion - it's versatility/flexibility is a selling point. The price/value is above average - the current deal on Amazon is a little under $20 with free shipping. The bottle is uniquely designed, but a bit awkward to hold and spray - the packaging is above average.


    My evaluation of Deseo is 4 stars out of 5 stars. It is a cool fragrance and run of the mill for celebrity endorsements. It fades a little too quickly for me to rate higher. It is a long way to the top if you want to rock-n-roll...

    01st December, 2012

    HackerX's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Piper Nigrum by Lorenzo Villoresi

    Piper Nigrum, a scent that took a complete 180 for me. I tried this scent 10 years ago when I just came into the fragrance scene. I found it too medicinal and repulsive. 10 years later I tried this in a vial didn't realize the writing on the card, I thought this smells really good and unique, a few days later i found "Piper Nigrum" on the vial card and I was shocked. A scent that I really disliked 10 years ago had become one of my favorites.

    From the first blast to the drydown, everything is just perfect about this fragrance. I can clearly detect the black pepper for the first hour, it is very true to life and very hypnotic. The first blast hits you with full spice assault, it's like opening a spice cabinet first time in years, it's actually rather soothing with this first stage. Then it becomes a little balmy, somewhat sweeter but still with the black pepper in the background. At this stage the sweetness gives off a little cinnamon vibe. Many hours later, it becomes a little ambery but still retains its spicy vibe, this sweet and spicy combo is absolutely breathtaking, I cannot stop smelling this fragrance. It just smells so 'Pure'. This surely has one of the top 3 drydowns among thousands of fragrances I've tried.

    Is it groundbreaking? Yes, it was very much ahead of its time. It sounds like something that would nauseate you, but it's the other way around, it's very comforting and relaxing. They say it's a fragrance full of contrasts, and it's absolutely true, contradicting ingredients are at play and the result is daring, fascinating and hypnotizing, a true masterpiece.

    01st December, 2012

    KJBarrett's avatar

    United States United States

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    Al Oudh by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    This is simply intoxicating...my favorite fragrance to wear. Such a masterful blend of elements! While I do enjoy a dose of cumin in a fragrance, and find its suggestions of sweat and sex and carnality to be a huge turn-on, this fragrance certainly does not assault me with cumin. It is subtly blended with a host of other spices, oud, leather, rose, civet and the other ingredients listed above. There is such a warm radiance to this fragrance--I feel wrapped in a sensual blanket of exoticism, and don't want to leave!

    01st December, 2012

    KJBarrett's avatar

    United States United States

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    Eau d'Hermès by Hermès

    This review is of the copper-topped Eau d'Hermes--I believe I've smelled one of (or the only?) reformulations before, and it contains a brighter initial splash of citrus followed by a heavier dose of cumin. In any event, this first version of the fragrance is smooth and suave--exactly what I imagine they were shooting for when they said it should smell like the inside of an Hermes bag. There really is a complexity of scent here...the little booklet accompanying the bottle lists 17 notes divided into 7 accords. And either I'm highly suggestible, or, after reading through that list while smelling my wrist again and again, I thought I smelled most of those notes. A 'fresh citrus' accord was followed by ' aromatic herbs', then 'bold spices', 'flower notes' and so on, until a basenote of cumin and leather was reached. Each accord was subtly there, yet combined into one unified, bronzey-brown color. Very interesting and full of depth. While I am huge fan of L'Artisan's Al Oudh, and find its blend more sweatily sexy (and great fuel for the libido), Eau d'Hermes's sex appeal is smoother and duskier---a must-try. Imagine shrinking yourself and a friend down and having a forbidden encounter inside a huge Hermes bag....

    01st December, 2012

    KJBarrett's avatar

    United States United States

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    Absinth by Nasomatto

    This fragrance is such an interesting gem. Vegetal, mossy and evocative of layers of greenery and earth, while at the same time suggesting sweet apple and beet. A candied-shell quality ends up encapsulating all of the above in a very pleasant package. Is it bright and dark at the same time? I certainly smell no absinthe, but perhaps it's the spell of the green fairy that brought me to this sweet green earthy place!

    01st December, 2012

    KJBarrett's avatar

    United States United States

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    Jardin du Poete by Eau d'Italie

    Wow. This is certainly green, vibrant, citrusy sunshine in a bottle--and not cloyingly so. I only have a sample, but must purchase a full bottle in time for summer! The masterful mixture of grapefruit, different types of orange, and the greenery of a Mediterranean garden is exhilarating and refreshing. Frankly, the scent makes me want to bury my nose in my arm and alternately sniff both it and then an ocean breeze while I watch clouds roll across a bluuuuuuuue sky.

    01st December, 2012

    rbaker's avatar



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    Dior Homme Sport (original) by Christian Dior

    The 2012 reformulation: There is this fresh, bright and glossy undertone that this fragrance has in common with the original Dior Homme. Otherwise it has nothing to do with the original. A toned down and gentle citrus opening that withdraws a bit after the initial impression to be joined by a quite restrained ginger note with a touch of floweriness and, in the drydown, a hint of synthetic leather. There is little of the iris/lipstick note that the original Dior Homme scent is remarkable for. This is less citrus-fresh than he original DHS formulation, but still a soft, bright and fresh but safer and less daring fragrance compared with the original Dior Homme. This makes it more versatile but a bit more dull. Excellent silage and strong projection for the first ninety minutes, and then collapses to remain close to my skin for about another three more hours.

    01st December, 2012

    rogalal's avatar

    United States United States

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    The Garden Party Frangipane by The Party

    What an interesting perfume. It's ALMOST fantastic, but it's a little rough around the edges in ways that ended up kind of turning me off. It's complex and made to smell like a classic perfume, kicking off with a strange mix of wax and that strawberry shampoo smell that ends up as an indolic bubblegummy jasmine over a slightly powdery white flowers accord sweetened with lingering fake strawberry and made a little weird by the way that wax note mixes with the indoles.

    After a couple of hours, it hits its main theme, a mix of indoles, iris, and licorice-ish anise. Yes, this smells as weird as it sounds. Eventually, as the indoles fade, it gets soapier and takes on a weird smell of salty hair.

    To be fair, this smells much nicer than I'm making it sound. Had it left out that silly strawberry and toned down that wax note, the top could have been fantastic with all that luxurious jasmine. And I can't help but think that the base, as weird as it sounds, could have been wonderful if they'd just cut it with some juducious vanilla or some No.5-ish ubercreamy sandalwood.

    As such, I don't have much interest in Frangipane, but I could see its quirky charm winning over perfumistas with a taste for the old and unusual.

    01st December, 2012

    weezyweedz's avatar



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    Versace pour Homme by Versace

    fantastic scent.opens with the beutiful citrus and stays like that for quite a long time then changes eventually into a very slightly wood scent but with the kick of citrus still there love this one not offensive at all! and only downside is that it might not last that long on your skin but for me great projection and longevity only just a bit synthetic!

    01st December, 2012

    Balvon's avatar

    Lithuania Lithuania

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    L'Anonyme ou OP-1475-A by A Lab on Fire

    Simple but very good scent.

    01st December, 2012

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    Fire Island by Bond No. 9

    When everyone speaks of sunscreen, my nose expects coppertone and bad imitation piña colada. That's not what I'm getting from this, and I'm not sure that my nose would have decided on a similarity to sunscreen if I hadn't read that first. But Bond 9 themselves intended for this to smell like a kind of high end vintage European sun tanning oil so I suppose that I can imagine that and that some people's noses would recognize the brand that they're echoing here.

    I'm personally getting some honey and sunshine and very soft soap. It's actually quite pleasant. Not something that I can relate to and would choose to wear regularly, but I like it. And for once, this one could indeed be unisex unlike so many others which I would say are only masculine.

    01st December, 2012

    Cyn's avatar

    United States United States

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    Organza Indécence by Givenchy

    Way to much vanilla! I smells exactly like creme brulee. I prefer to eat my desserts, rather than wear them.

    01st December, 2012

    P77's avatar



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    Luna Rossa by Prada

    Absolutely fantastic scent. Fits in well with the Prada line. Longevity is good on me, went for five sprays in the morning and was stilling catches waves of the scent late at night.

    01st December, 2012

    Buzzlepuff's avatar

    United States United States

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    Acqua Santa / Holy Water by AbdesSalaam Attar Profumo

    From Abdes Salam Attar website it is said of Holy Water / Acqua Santa "Made from substances held sacred in Western and Oriental mystics (sandalwood, incense, rose) this is a perfume that opens up the heart to angelical realities and fosters the return to one's own interior dimension. I take this statement to be very genuine and literal. Everything about the fragrance is uplifting and has a spiritual weight about it.

    The cologne opens and smells in structure like an eau de cologne except for the immediately noticeable lowered tonal register of the frankincense. Frankincense is the dominant character and imparts a hallowed, low chanting, vibrational feel to the scent. The airy uplift of a slight rose is a bit of purity in the opening and I am guessing it to be enhanced with bitter orange blossom and/or orange flower? It is a challenge to guess the ingredients but I do so only to help describe the wonderful nuances of warmth and uplifting quality of this Holy Water. The frankincense smells lemony and mellow and has the slightest touch of grittier wood that I would imagine to be mastic or nutmeg oil in slight measure. The soft finely tuned grains of sandalwood contribute to a wood base that lingers on in refined and mellow tones for a few hours after applying. Lasts about 4 hours mostly as a subtle presence on the skin.

    Befitting its name, Acqua Santa smells of integrity and purity of intention throughout its brief but passionate performance. I give it a thumbs up recommendation as a balm for he who searches for righteousness and asks for a gentle, innocent presence as a guide and companion.

    01st December, 2012

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    Escale à Portofino by Christian Dior

    Unisex refreshing and classy scent. Tends to be more feminine because it has a sweetness due to the almond (which i really enjoy). Lasting power and projection is average, and sillage is great. Definetely worth it!

    01st December, 2012

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    Attar Al Kaaba by Haramain

    Along with Marwah, Attar Al Kaaba is definetely a must have for oud lovers, and they both have fantastic bottles and package. The smell: less sweet than Marwah, they're like cousins. Al Kaaba opening is even more medicinal and flowery, then dries down to a heavy oud, sweet roses and sandalwood. Sillage, lasting power and projection are average-high. Definetely thumbs up!

    01st December, 2012

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    Amber Oudh by Rasasi

    A must have! Beautiful scent. Unisex. I dont smell much oud in it, but more amber and florals that lingers for hours. It's a bit linear, which doesnt means its not nice. Price is great and bottle is beautiful. Thumbs up!

    01st December, 2012

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    Ciel Man by Amouage

    Ciel is one of the best florals i've ever smelt. Unique. Great for summer. Dries down to a beautiful fruity/woody smell. It works well on a woman also, so for me it's unisex. Definetely worth it and thumbs up!

    01st December, 2012

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    Honour Man by Amouage

    Honour is a fantastic spicy/woody fragrance and very unique. Sillage, lasting power and projection are great. Thumbs up for the fragrance and thumbs down for the price.

    01st December, 2012

    Noblesse Oblige's avatar



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    Yerbamate by Lorenzo Villoresi

    Quite powdery overlay on a refreshing greeness. I find myself wanting more green and less -- much less -- powder. It opens with a very fresh and inviting green, rich in complexity, but soon gives way to the powder. It is reminiscent of LV Musk in its powderiness. It is just not my style. I rate neutral because I know that there are people who like this kind of sweetness. I give it two out of fives stars.

    01st December, 2012

    teardrop's avatar

    England England

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    Tilda Swinton Like This by Etat Libre d'Orange

    This smells to me almost exactly like Ginger by Lush/Gorilla Perfumes, but quieter. For most of its duration l get candied ginger in syrup, with the immortelle note giving it a dryness rather than a cloying sweetness. l don't know what pumpkin smells like, so l can't say that l smell it here. ln the base l get a little vetiver & some sandalwood, before it all fades out around four hours in.
    l think this fragrance is very comforting, perfect for autumn, & it also makes me think of Christmas. lt's made me want to buy another bottle of Ginger, too!
    By the way, if you want to experience gourmand heaven, try wearing this together with Ambre Narguile; the combination of the two produces a sweet, scrummy deliciousness, as well as a craving for naughty puddings!

    01st December, 2012

    teardrop's avatar

    England England

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    Fils de Dieu du Riz et des Agrumes by Etat Libre d'Orange

    This smells just like a Thai green curry, complete with lemongrass, coriander, lime leaves & coconut rice. l get a little musk in the base, before it fades out around five hours in.
    lt's really quite delicious, although l'm not sure l'd want to smell like this all that often. l have to give this a thumbs up though, because it's really a very well executed fragrance, if lacking in longevity.

    01st December, 2012

    drseid's avatar

    United States United States

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    Green Water by Jacques Fath

    This is a review for the older formula of Green Water in the more classic-looking green bottle, with a section comparing it to the latest formula in the current fancier modern style bottle.

    Green Water (older formula) opens with very natural smelling spearmint supported by a gorgeous grassy herbal lemon verbena. The spearmint stays throughout the scent's limited development, but it very slowly recedes as time passes, allowing the grassy herbal lemon to take more of the starring role with the mint now in the supporting role. Hints of other light herbs and florals add further support to the two key notes but they are so well-blended it is difficult to identify them. The only identifiable base notes are a relatively well-concealed oakmoss and light musk tandem that start to peep into the late heart of the scent through the dry-down, with the spearmint reclaiming its starring role as the lemon verbena finally disappears late. Projection is below average to average and longevity is above average.

    Green Water (older formula) is a great example of mint done right. It is extremely natural smelling and outside of the substantially more expensive Menthe Fraiche by Heeley you can't do better (or even as good). The mixture of the lemon verbena and spearmint works extremely well, and the oakmoss while very subtle plays a key role in supporting the scent during its later stages. Green Water (older formula) stays fresh 'till the last, and is quite the invigorating one indeed. It may be pretty minimalist and linear in its development, but Green Water (older formula) is an excellent scent and an even better value in its older formula guise, earning a strong 4 stars out of 5. A definite strong buy on this version of Green Water by Fath.

    Now for a quick comparison with the current formula in the more modern clear bottle that sells for only about $25.00 a large bottle... The two formulas open very similarly, but the spearmint and lemon verbena in the older formula are just a hair more pronounced and natural smelling. Also, while completely missing from the older formula, in the current formula a musty indolic jasmine undertone just starts to peep through into the top notes, barely detectable at this point. It is the heart notes where the two scents strongly diverge... The older formula stays pretty linear, with the main change in the early heart being the spearmint and lemon verbena swap starring and support roles, but in the current release they all but disappear, being engulfed by the now very strong musty, almost moldy jasmine that dominates with just the faintest whiff of a lavender floral undertone. The dry-down is where the scents are again quite similar where the spearmint regains the focus in the current version as the musty jasmine recedes and all but finally disappears (the spearmint never left the older formula) with both scents having the oakmoss undertone support. The main difference is the oakmoss is just a tad stronger in the older formula and the current formula never completely shakes its musty undertone... Projection is below average and longevity is poor to below average in the current release.

    The bottom line is the older formula is far superior to the current formula and would without hesitation be the one I'd buy (although I now own both). The current formula gets a good to very good 3 to 3.5 star out of 5 rating in its own right and for the money is an exceptional value, but the musty jasmine heart is just not the same stuff and is somewhat unnecessarily off-putting. I really do not know why the house of Fath added that in, but they should strongly consider removing it as it ruins the great minty herbal nature of the scent.

    01st December, 2012 (Last Edited: 02nd December, 2012)

    Mr. TL's avatar

    United States United States

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    Vétiver by Christian Dior

    After sampling this fragrance for months, I finally purchased a full bottle and have zero regrets. This fragrance simply makes me feel fresh all day long. It just lasts and lasts with a minimalist vetiver note. What I like most about the scent is actually what most consider a downfall of some fragrances; the lack of scent progression or development. I enjoy the fact I can apply this scent before I go out, and expect the same results 5 minutes, or 60 minutes later. While the sharp citrus opening note does hide after some time, you're still left with a very fresh and bright green note throughout the day. I really think this is a fragrance for everyone who loves vetiver to sample. You'll be pleasantly surprised.

    01st December, 2012 (Last Edited: 05th December, 2012)

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