If you have ever stood downwind of a linden tree in full bloom, you'll know exactly what this wonderful soliflore smells like. I'm transported. On any day of the year, I can revisit July through Tilleul. Longevity is surprisingly good for an EDT (I can still catch wafts of it after 10 hours). It wears close to the skin, with sillage like a soft breeze playing among blossoms. Tilleul is simply heavenly.
ACCORD OUD moves through its phases from burning plastics and tyres to rum-soaked hides to soiled rotting logs without ever truly smelling of any real oud I've come across. It's not a bad scent but that doesn't automatically make it a good one either. There is an overarching chemical vibe and textural monotony about it that I don't really care for.
There is a pleasant floral concoction from the beginning, but it not well structured and developers into a bit of a floral blur suffocating a discrete rose that shines through at times. Iris - a bit, jasmine - a bit, but I mainly get lily-of-the-valley combined with a nonspecific white floral mix plus some aldehydes.
Later on a bit of the iris returns and a strangely sweetish-smooth vetiver is added too.
The sillage is soft, the projection adequate, and the longevity an excellent nine hours on my skin.
Pleasant in spring and not bad, but a touch to muted and inadequately structured, especially in the second half of its development. The potential is there though. 2.75/5
A shrill bouquet of floral aromachemicals put together without much callibration. If you're familiar with higher quality more accomplished floral arrangements you'll know this Byredo comes across distinctly amateurish and cheap.
An easygoing take on the spicy-fresh aromatic masculine cologne. Lacking the richness and dimensionality of all-natural blends it's well-blended (sparse?) enough for me not to be distracted by any particular note's shortcomings. I find traces of spiced vetiver reminding me somewhat of a milder Terre d'Hermes.
Pleasantly versatile to wear on a regular basis but calling it 'fantastic' is definitely a stretch too far. Right, Mr. Reed Richards?
A mildly fruity-citrusy scent reminiscent of pomelo pulps rather than grapefruit, smelling as though I'd peeled off the fruit, got the juices all over my hands and forgotten to wash them off. I don't know how truly representative it is of Palermo but its discreetly soft tang and clean musk makes it easily wearable as a gender-neutral fragrance. Unfortunately for a Byredo it performs well below my expectations.
I have tried Christalle edp today from a sample. I have not liked it as much as the No. 22 sample I wore the other day, but it has its own merits: it is a strong, fruity perfume. The projection after a couple hours was impressive.
Very traditional masculine 'mossy'.
Instead of reviving English Fern to it's former status, a new fragrance was born, basically tidying EF up and adding some pepper.
Not for baseball cap wearers.
It's ok, if a little dull.
Odd sort of contradictory fragrance from Penhaligon's, i.e. there seems to be a lot going on, subtle changes, etc but ultimately, not a lot happens.
It's basically a milky spicy fig with fougere pretensions -- I actually find it slightly sweet and feminine in parts.
I do like the smell though and it is a stayer.
Luminous, soapy and predominantly green, this floral number triggers off the alarm on my synthetic-o-meter. While I can't fault its on-skin performance, it smells way too much like a dishwashing liquid to warrant a better rating.
Odd marketing (or stereotypical) for this Italian House -- 5 big blueish bottles for the men and about 20-30 small red bottles for the ladies although I was told they were unisex.
Hmmm -- water in the name? Needn't worry, this is a stonking, piercing, gorgeous citrus that lasts a long while and chooses a nice musk to achieve that.
Very influenced by Hermes' Merveilles and EDVC imo (no bad thing).
The opening is a bright-ish citrus and herbal note that is a tad on the undifferentiated side, and is soon joined by an iris impression that is agreeable not not particularly distinguishing itself.
Later in the drydown the whole combination thins out, and at times it is rather generic and uninspiring. Then, after the first five hours or so, a twist towards the gourmand occurs. It is heralded by a very restrained balsamic note, a darkish-green balsam that is very fine, neither ceremonial nor spicy, and not very medicinal either.
Then a cocoa arrives, later with a light chocolate undertone, and a well-behaved vanilla with a teeny-weeny but of oud - an olfactoric microscope is needed to detect the latter. This is the most convincing part of this product's development, smooth, round, neither cloying nor intrusive - as a matter of fact this always remains a restrained and at times nearly faint fragrance.
I get moderate sillage, a somewhat limited projection and an very impressive eleven hours of
longevity on my skin.
This autumnal scent is a bit of a mixed bag then. At times too generic, and times very well done, especially the second half, which seems to be composed of good-quality ingredients. Overall 2.5/5.
This is the Feminine that resembles Aromatics Elixir. To my mind easier to wear as a man as it seems to have an absence of Tuberose together with the right Patchouli Oakmoss Sandal combination to fulfill my Masculine taste.
The Rose is well represented with a roundness, plushness and dimension attractive.
Well blended in that it has no sharpness or single note
Vintage of course, so none of the wonderful availability of the Clinique.
The fruity core and the cedar - these are the two main components in this creation. In spite of some slight difference there is a good fig note present, and the balance between fruitiness, sweetness and acidity is achieved well. Hints of Cantaloupe and forest berry are also present at times.
The cedarwood is on the darker side, with touches of spiciness. This spiciness is more accompaniment to the wood and never pushes itself into the foreground. Not peppery, not balsamic or ceremonial, more an extension of the spicy aroma that is inherent to some darker cedar notes anyway, and towards the end with a lightly powdery whiff, a modern contemporary powderiness, not a traditional barbershop
The sillage is moderate, the projection good, and the longevity six hours.
A somewhat linear composition for warmer autumn days with few surprises, but made of high-quality natural ingredients and deserving a try if you like this sort of fragrance. 3/5.
Basically the same synth creamy-earthy-powdery (initially intoxicating) mélange of neroli, cinnamon, patchouli, spicy-amber and rose but in here there is a spicy-leathery darker and vaguely more "assertive" (woody-floral-leathery) side of the moon (jumping finally on the stage in the "long tail dry down"). Probably piquant spices (cardamom in particular), dark woods and a moody leather-iris accord provide this fragrance with a (less "brash" but) probably classier and more mature final vibe (kind of slightly moody, barely fluidy-aromatic and saturnine). The minty-creamy-angular initial "splash" is barely subdued. A quite good fragrance (in the synthetic glamour-chic contemporary range), seriously guys. Lot of pepper and misty spices, hints of earthiness and leather for a more mature "clients' target". Dry down is slightly woodier, more leathery and restrained. A bold and sexy (frankly not intenser on my skin) One Million's "reformulation" from Paco Rabanne. Recommended over the "basic version". Abysmal "boor" bottle.
24th July, 2016 (last edited: 25th July, 2016)
X for Men is my favorite of the Clive Christian perfumes from testing at their fragrance counters. The overall accord strikes me as just ok, a little sour, but up close the individual ingredients smell interesting.
I just can't shake off the singular association I've formed with freesia since I was a kid. Whenever I smell this note I'm reminded of bath talc. Well, the same sort of thing happened with TULIPE though the note takes more of a backseat to the central white floral accord.
What a lovely floral! It hums along rather than shrieks, and feels pitch-perfect for a blushing young bride. Outside of weddings, however, I just can't see anyone rocking this unless her name is 'Mary Poppins'.
Yes - another rose & oud product. After all, no-one ever thought of this before?!..... The age of oud....
Still, the oud here is of a nice quality, and whilst strong, on my skin it is never to intrusive or cloying. Not that this a discrete oud; it is clearly present m and out in the open - this is no Royal Oud. And whilst having the distinct edge and aroma characteristic of oud, is is a comparatively rounded version of this wood impression.
The rose is pleasant and, unlike in many other rose-oud clones, is not overwhelmed by its counterpart and an equal partner most of the time; at times the rose is even a bit up in front. This rose is medium dark, smooth with touches of depth and texture.
Throughout the development I get a herbal undertone at times, with hints of weak tea towards the end.
The sillage is moderate, the projection very good, and the longevity adds up to nine hours.
A pleasantly balanced rouse-oud creation made of high-quality ingredients but limited in its originality. 3/5.
A soft almost creamy bergamot and floral musk. A textural hint of vetiver puts it in the same postcode as Original Vetiver. Though not quite as diffusive and distinctive as the Creed its persistence on skin is nevertheless commendable.
This starts out as a sweet and soft floral composition. Initially the orange blossom is laced with a rich and super-smooth ylang-ylang, but after the first few hours it is the orange blossom only.
This then lasts for the rest of the development. Towards the end whiffs of caramel are in the air at times, as are somewhat generic woodsy vibes that remain the least interesting part of this olfactoric trio.
The sillage is moderate to strong, the projection excellent - apply sparingly- and the longevity a very impressive eleven hours.
A soft and rich spring floral scent that is not too synthetic and is based on an agreeable orange blossom. 3.25/5.
Shalimar-esque sans the "plastic". Suits me. Nice Carnation note. I can wear this comfortably in hot weather.
My Masculine Carnation Monsieur Lanvin is a little heavy and Animalic for the Summer.
Did I say I like Carnation?
This is a perfect example of niche perfumery creating pictures with scent, as opposed to creating a great perfume with scent. The picture that Coeur de Noir evokes for me is of Miss Havisham's house. Consumed by flames. The arson squad is poking around the smoldering remains looking for the source of the fire. Was this an accident? Does it matter? A perfect fragrance for a modern day Guy Fawkes. Non-firebrands need not apply.
I am planning to experiment with layering under a multitude of scents, as I've been told the effect is rather amazing.
On its own, though, it is quite refreshing and a "happy" scent, if you will. As Orange Blossom is a favorite of mine, this is easily a favorite. FBW.
A case where the sum feels a lot less than its component parts. A plummy-saffrony-woody-floral oriental if I were pushed into classifying it. But if I'm brutally honest, it actually smells flat, the notes melding into one big synthetic linear accord. No significant leather to be found either, texturally or otherwise. Perhaps it's been reformulated?
To its credit BULLION projects very well, smelling attractively like a veiled sultry courtesan from a sheikh's harem. Such a conjured imagery alone is enough to give me *cough* I mean, give this fragrance a rise and that, my friends, is no bull. I'd certainly raise an eyebrow and perhaps flare a nostril too were I to smell this on a straight guy.
I find Zino subtle, and not very interesting, a light presentation of the listed notes. For this type of sandalwood (or sandal) smell, backed by sweetness, Tiffany for Men or Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Santal Noble could be better options.
The opening has a discretely fresh undertone - courtesy of some hints of citrusy vibes and a light and non-earthy vetiver - but it is mainly a floral note that is centred around a nice iris note. Whilst rich, it is an elegant iris, with a green undertone and not too sweet at all. An unashamedly floral affair.
The drydown brings in an incense that, again, combines richness with elegance. It is a light and ethereal balsamic tone; a far cry from the heavy solemn and ceremonial frankincense others have used and use. This is the incense antithesis to Amouage's splendid Interlude.
Yes, there is some oud in the base, but very discretely incorporated into the whole mix; think of the oud in Royal Oud - that's how discreet it is on my skin, just a touch more synthetic.
Towards the end the incense and the green and balsamic characteristics were off and what remains is the iris that, gently, fades into the night.
The sillage is moderate, the projection excellent, and the longevity an amazing fourteen hours on my skin.
A scent for spring evenings, well-blended, not without an original and never too cloying or annoyingly synthetic. 3.25/5.
Acrid and inky. The scent of a photocopier toner cartridge, more or less. Something tells me I should spend less time at the office...
Yes, I (partially) detect the Royal Oud's reference; this fragrance is ideally like an infant coming out from a Creed Royal Oud/Ted Lapidus Black Soul's love story. Nothing new under the sun.
A Basenoter sent me a sample of No. 22, perhaps a version from before the exclusive line was released, and it's a great Chanel fragrance as I have come to expect; a variation on Chanel No. 5, of which there are several, and this one is impeccable.
Aramis Havana gets a thumbs up from me, an agreeable fragrance, curiously familiar, and simple despite the long list of notes. I could wear this routinely.