Fragrance Reviews from July 2012

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    drseid's avatar

    United States United States

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    Aedes de Venustas (new) by Aedes de Venustas

    Aedes de Venustas (new) opens with a bit of green apple, coupled with honeysuckle and just the faintest whiff of hazelnut used as support. The heart notes add a powerful non-smoky vetiver arising from the scent's base, and a nice rhubarb and incense combo that take center-stage while the apple and honeysuckle still remain in a supporting role to add a bit of "sweet and sour" balance to the composition. The dry-down is primarily the remnants of the incense and vetiver. Projection and longevity are both good.

    The first time I sampled Aedes de Venustas (new) I really did not care for it, and when grabbing my sample again to prepare for this review I fully expected to pan the scent as being a bit too "out there" for my taste. After further review I guess I have to change course and say I like it quite a bit, actually. The green apple, vetiver and incense composition really grows on you, and the rhubarb, while definitely different also works well with the other notes once you get a bit used to it. I doubt I'll be buying a bottle of this one as it is not quite to my preferences, but I definitely can recommend it, and award it a well-deserved 3.5 stars out of 5.

    08 July, 2012

    Francolino's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Burberry London for Men by Burberry

    unexpensive like all Burberry scents but a small masterpiece with a pleasant drydown that will follow you with the Ladies right down in the groove...

    08 July, 2012

    rbaker's avatar



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    Envy for Men by Gucci

    In Envy I do not detect a clear contrast between an opening top notes and the base notes, as it's main character declares itself promptly - and this character is attractive.  It is warm with the opopanax given a foundation of gentle incense that is tied to notes of musk, cardamom, nutmeg, amber,wood, ginger and pinches of smoke and pepper.   It is not particularly daring, but quite unique and hails from the time of Tom Ford's association with Gucci.  None of the ingredients dominate, and the roundedness and smoothness is convincing; it is a bit synthetic but never overbearing or cloying on me. I understand why it has become such a classic,and agree that it is a cool season scent but versatile as to the occasions in which it is worn.  Good (on me) longevity of 4-5 hours.

    08 July, 2012

    Kyujin's avatar

    Norway Norway

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    No. 89 by Floris

    How I would have loved to still like it!

    As someone wrote so nicely, this used to be "a continuation of soap by other means", not spectacular, but very discreet and classy. The air of subdued, refined cleanliness was perfect for my line of work.

    Upon revisiting the obviously reformulated eau de toilette after a few years with high hopes all I get now is cheap hairspray, just as the_good_life commented a while ago. Luckily it has little longevity on my skin, all that is left after a few hours are some nondescript, vaguely powdery remnants. If it is the IFRA or just economy: Another one bites the dust.

    08 July, 2012

    edinburghwaverley's avatar

    Wales Wales

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    Innocent by Thierry Mugler

    I do like Innocent, I do, but to me, it smells almost exactly like Angel, if a little watered down. They are too much alike to be considered "different".

    08 July, 2012

    Roya k's avatar

    Australia Australia

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    Earthworm by Demeter Fragrance Library

    This is beautiful,wet earth,very similar to CB wild hunt juts much cheaper.

    08 July, 2012

    Roya k's avatar

    Australia Australia

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    Dirt by Demeter Fragrance Library

    This is a nice dirt scent,although I prefer earthworm which is deeper and smells of pure damp soil/earth.

    08 July, 2012

    Smellitivity's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Le Chèvrefeuille by Annick Goutal

    I love the lemon-camomile scented of the beginning, it blends well with the florals and the result is very good-hearted.
    What disappointed me a little, is that it won't change much, and it's like having a perfume made of opening notes only. I would have preferred some more variety.

    08 July, 2012

    knit at nite's avatar

    United States United States

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    Pear + Olive by Slumberhouse

    Notes: pear, cognac, chamomile, aglaia, olive, zdravets, massoia bark and calamus

    Zdravets is geranium oil from cranesbill geranium.
    Aglaia is chinese perfume plant. Also a greek goddess, and the given name of my mother's cousin. However, when she was a young'un (in the 1930's) and being teased by her peers over her name (who taunted her with "ugly- a" she changed it to Ida- because she liked the popular song of the era "Ida....sweet as apple pie-da". But I digress majorly...sorry..

    The slumberhouse guy apparently is not motivated by fame and fortune because I couldn't even find Pear and Olive for sale on his own website. I acquired mine on parfum1.com (no affiliation).

    Limk to blog where perfumer discusses creation of scent: http://slumber33.tumblr.com/post/234...#disqus_thread

    I can't do any better than he does in capturing the mood of this simultaneously soothing yet stimulating creation. Pear & Olive skillfully captures an organic aesthetic and has a luminosity and sweetness which is not "green" in the sense of my usual green fave like Silences, but it's very green in the spirit of conjuring up a sense of place and experience at one with the natural world. And despite having several "edibles" in the composition, I would not classify it as a gourmand.

    This luminosity distinguishes Pear & Olive from the other, always interesting, slumberhouse scents I own or have sampled- the overall house offerings are much darker and resinous (not a bad thing) but this one's lighter feel makes it more wearable for me as a daytime scent.
    On my skin, longevity is 6-8 hours, the projection is very minimal. YMMV.


    08 July, 2012

    senore01's avatar

    United States United States

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    Aqua Fahrenheit by Christian Dior

    Perfect for summer time wear. It is a lighter, fresher, version of the original. And, it remains true to the original scent. It is one of very few summer fragrances that actually lasts. I enjoy it very much. Have gotten many compliments.

    08 July, 2012

    senore01's avatar

    United States United States

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    Black XS by Paco Rabanne

    Not what I would refer to as a grown ups scent. Very young fragrance. I wouldn't have worn this even in my college days. However, I can see some one up to there early 20's pulling this off and the young girls liking it.

    08 July, 2012

    digger51's avatar

    United States United States

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    Wonderwood by Comme des Garçons

    If you like woods then you will like Wonderwood. There is not much else to it. It has nice basenotes and I do find myself enjoying it, but it is just nice. There is no WOW to this scent. It is wood for those who like wood. It is a Niche within the Niche. I give this a neutral just because it is very limited, but if you like woods I give it a hearty thumbs up.

    08 July, 2012

    buren's avatar



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    Y by Yves Saint Laurent

    I have my mother's bottles of Y & Paris by Yves Saint Laurent. My father gave her these & I notice that she used almost all of the Paris & only a fourth of the Y. She preferred green or chypre scents, or florals such as carnation, but disliked strongly musky or oriental scents. She loved the bright sweetness of ginger & hated the shadowy tuberose.

    I'm a different type myself!

    I am afraid this review of Y will be skewed by the possibility that this bottle is "off". However the main thing I have to say about Y (in this bottle) is that it "plays handball with your mind". The opening note is
    a metallic aldehyde (it is affected by the metallic atomizer perhaps) that makes me go "gack" & hesitant to continue the exploration. There is an almost instantaneous passage into an incredibly complicated chord of florals, woods, fruits, mosses & animalic scents that for some strange reason makes me think of dark chocolate with a fruit liqueur center. The dry down is heady but I come back for more: what IS that? Finally, the floral, wood & mossy reverberations linger a long long time.

    This is a scent for Daffy Duck.

    08 July, 2012

    rum's avatar

    Greece Greece

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    Molecule 01 by Escentric Molecules

    It has to be said that this stuff doesn't smell of anything. I mean, even water smells of something, but I literally had to come here and show my disappointment.

    Fortunately I didn't purchase it, but I did go all the way to London's Liberty to try it out. And I can't believe I wasted those minutes of my life in there.

    Seriously, this is the magic ingredient of my beloved TdH and so many others? Seriously guys, don't waste your time on sampling this, let alone buying it!! Avoid at all costs.

    08 July, 2012

    FumeHood's avatar

    Brazil Brazil

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    Oud Stars : Al-Khatt by Xerjoff

    Al Khatt opens with a sweet candy accord - with all of the concentrated powder of a tutti-frutti instant drink mix (with a lean toward grape, me thinks). Luckily there is an immediately recognizable creamy (almost sour milk) oud lying beneath and this quickly begins to aid in the balance of what might otherwise become a syrupy sweet scrubber on me. Just when you think you are in a candy shop, this blend goes all horsey on your ass and you have been transported to the hides, sawdust, smokey, and yes - even fecal notes - of a well-kept stable. Truly Bizarre to pair a synthetic-feeling sugar-toothed opening with the most natural and skanky of the ouds in the series. Nice projection and longevity on this one. Still, I cannot say I love the marriage here. It is just too unbalanced to my nose, and even conjures up an odd sneeze-inducing moment from time to time as if telling my body not to dare spray this stuff again.

    08 July, 2012

    FumeHood's avatar

    Brazil Brazil

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    Oud Stars : Mamluk by Xerjoff

    Mamluk is a buttermilky, caramelized floral. I never thought Oud could be so mouth-watering, though it is hard to appreciate the Oud here until a bit later in the journey. Mamluk mellows into a golden woody base with a warm and velvety glow. And yes, completely unisex. Competent and comforting, but at this elevated price point, there are other toffee gourmands out that do this as well. In fact, I find Lira (from Xerjoff´s own Casamoratti line) to be a more adventurous rendition of this delicious Caramel accord in pairing it with some appropriately tart citrus and lavender.

    08 July, 2012

    FumeHood's avatar

    Brazil Brazil

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    Oud Stars : Zanzibar by Xerjoff

    Najaff opens with accord of mom´s make-up drawer - waxy lipstick and powder compresses. It´s trajectory reminds me a bit of Al Khatt, in the sense that the prettiest openings in this series are intentionally paired with the most challenging of the ouds. It then verges on the edges of Ambre Sultan with its dry herbs (an element of perfumery that I never find completely agreeable), adding a smokiness that is unfortunately ashy, not sweet. In the midsection, I sense strong links to MFK´s Absolue pour le Soir with cedar and smokey sandalwood, trading osmanthus for the ylang-ylang. I have trouble with this one. It's not particularly dirty, just a little sneeze-inducing with me; it draws you in gently but then subjects your nose too much dry powder and smoke. There is little RICH to be found in this when compared to others in the line. Excepting some middle moments where I feel some of the attractive cedar pull of Dzongka (without the incense), Najaff produces more head-ache than Arabian escape to this novice nose, but certainly presents an original essay for those wanting alternatives to the standard issues in the oud-of-the-month club.

    08 July, 2012

    Candide's avatar

    Germany Germany

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    Terre d'Hermès Parfum by Hermès

    Terre d'Hermès Pure Parfum is the only scent that made me survive the season I hate most: summer.

    I apply this potent fragrance heavily on my upper body and spray it to the neck; the scent then forms an impenetrable armour around me, not unlike Frodo's mithril-shirt. Thus all the adversities of summer - huge amounts of sweat washing away any cologne one puts on, clothes sticking to the skin, feeling smudgy etc. - shall have no dominion.

    Only since I know that the Pure Parfum can do this I have a lot easier times with summer. At the moment I own two bottles of it (75ml and the gorgeous 200ml-bottle which is a veritable murder-weapon) and plan to stock up soon to prevent me from any possible reformulation-mournings in the future.

    08 July, 2012

    FumeHood's avatar

    Brazil Brazil

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    Oud Stars : Zafar by Xerjoff

    in Zafar, the Oud does not play second fiddle, setting it on a shelf above the other Xerjoff "Oud Stars". And with an Oud note this silky, why would it? No need to decorate and perfume the star player to death. The black pepper note is quite natural and subtle, and the sweetness afforded by light floral elements is so delicate that you cannot classify this as a rose-oud perfume. In fact, it hardly feels like a perfume; Zafar projects an aura as a piece of dry fragrant wood might. I don't know much about pure oud oils, but when they laud the fact that this particular our component is aged, you can feel the legitimacy - like you do tasting a 30-year port next to the 10-year-old. The deep pungent qualities in the wood here are hypnotic, and I disagree with those claiming that there is nothing new to be found here: yes, this IS a WOW fragrance in the Oud genre. There is nothing overtly barnyard (or camel´s ass :-) about Zafar yet it projects a smoother and more legitimate oud character than the other westernized oud-prominent blends I have experienced in recent years. (Read: it is borderline skanky) The sensual resins of the Omani incense and pepper at the base play on and on for days (especially on clothing) even after the glow of the woody elements has faded. Zafar is absolutely one of my favorite two in the series (Gao is the other), and the one that should survive on its own should the series become, indeed, limited (as the boxes decree).

    08 July, 2012

    FumeHood's avatar

    Brazil Brazil

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    Oud Stars : Gao by Xerjoff

    OK. So this is saffron. Now I get it. And I now can say I love it. The bombastic dominating spice at the head, midsection, and tail of Gao is much more earthy and smokey than what I thought to be Saffron in Noir de Noir or Red Aoud. Someone in an initial discussion on these boards likened Gao to other Montale Ouds (Aouds :-), a similarity that I also sense so much to the extreme of confusing this with Black Aoud once some paper strips had been resting a few days. It is the dry down where the similarity is apparent (so I assume a similarity in the oud accord.) Though the rose and saffron are really polar opposites on the dry-and-dusty continuum, Gao carries THAT style of medicinal oud (ala Montale) - whether real or synthetic - for those wondering. This is quite different than the velvety richness of the Laotian Oud in Zafar or the Barnyard sensation of Najaff and perhaps Al-khatt. Still it is fantastic, tenacious, and striking. Thankfully, it does have a softer side, though it never reaches any of the sweetness suggested by notes in the base. Until the peppery saffron ceases, the other players don't really stand a chance. Loud. Spicy. Intoxicating. Magnificent.

    08 July, 2012

    FumeHood's avatar

    Brazil Brazil

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    Oud Stars : Fars by Xerjoff

    A very agreeable scent. Begins in the typical floral-oud combo, though brighter and more effervescent than many in the genre. It confuses me. I get a rose (if on the wet and fruity side) along with the jasmine - but there is no mention of the rose in the notes. Maybe it is because rose is so commonly paired with oud that I am creating my own subliminal rose. Regardless, I prefer darker, almost chocolatey roses with Oud and woods, so the sweeter flowers (the geranium I do not smell, but jasmin yes, and the lavender lifts your spirits throughout) and house-standard citrusy/bergamot elements come across as a bit at odds with the heart of the fragrance. Then again, I felt the same with Kobe back when it was the new sensation. Easily wearable - though not a barbershop contender to my nose and not particularly masculine either. If you like scents that develop a lot, this one certainly changes its face a few times, becoming much warmer and woodier after several hours, and that is when I most enjoy it. No doubt, Fars is the brightest, cleanest, and most easily approachable of the Oud Stars lineup. A thumbs up, yes, but is it worth the dough?

    08 July, 2012

    The_Cologneist's avatar

    United States United States

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    Bleu de Chanel by Chanel

    Bleu de Chanel opens with a fresh and promising citrus medley. I get lots of bergamot, orange, lemon, grapefruit. Within 10 minutes though, this is gone, and I'm left with a boring floral, woodsy, musky smell, that stays this way for the next 8 hours. The dry down smells almost identical to Paul Sebastian Casual, which itself, is an utterly boring fragrance.

    Although well made, and put together, typical and boring, not the best quality from a Chanel fragrance either. Perhaps one of the better sporty fragrances out there, but that doesn't say much, since.. in the world of sporty fragrances, the selection is limited to begin with. If the price of a 3.4 oz bottle of Bleu de Chanel was 40 bucks, instead of what it is, it might be a decent value.

    08 July, 2012

    FumeHood's avatar

    Brazil Brazil

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    Les Déserts d'Orient - Songe d'un Bois d'Été by Guerlain

    In complete disagreement with the review below, Songe is a long-lasting (if only medium-projecting) inoffensive crowd-pleaser. Yes, it is far richer and more syrupy than the other two in the middle east series (which is not a quality that turns me off when it comes to scents marketed to a population that can handle turning up the volume and opulance of masculine-leaning scents.)

    This scent had me from hello, but with subsequent wearings it has become clear that there is nothing particularly new here except that Guerlain has gone to the trouble of creating the perfect blend of three of my favorite comfort scents - and they put it all in a gorgeous bottle to boot (if for a hefty price tag).

    Songe d'un Bois d'Été is Guerlain's take on (1) Dior's Leather Oud... subsequently sweeted with the house's own masterful (2) Tonka Imperiale... and made strikingly carnal with a lesson from (3) L'Artisan's Al Oudh. To be more specific, Songe packs Less heat and suffocation than the top notes of the Dior (a welcomed quality to many) but then envelopes a woody heart with a healthy portion of tonka basting that gives it that sweetened Guerlain-aide magic. One thing that I really liked, and quite rare for a Guerlain, is how it gets a little dirtier with time. There is a really fine cumin note (hence my association with L'artisan's Al Oudh) that, because of the sweetness, will never be confused for B.O. While I suppose I could see all this together as something redundant, I am really enjoying the sultry punch packed into this one bottle. Though the result is a lavish and smoky rendition of how the Arab world "does wood," do not assume that this is an oud scent. It is equal parts dry Cedar and Hot Leather, smoked in incense and garnished with a drizzle of cherry-tonka sweetness.

    Very rich. Incredibly beautiful. Completely Unisex. Highly recommended.

    08 July, 2012

    torbacka's avatar

    Finland Finland

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    Portrait of a Lady by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

    This is a heavy and heady one. For me very difficult to like. I'm not really a fan of rose fragrances in general. But this probably the least. The feelings I get from this is rose and bones (medical and dry vibe from patchouli-incence-oud), an old woman with bony white skin or make-up, black hair and red/black dress. That way it's neutral image, but it's not something I would like to smell.

    I could see this work for women with black and red dresses on Mexican Dia de los Muertos when people dress up like dead/skeletons. I would say that it is exclusively for special occasions, special dress up or party. I don't know. Not my cup of tea surely. I have a sample so I'll try it later but would be very surprised if I ever started wearing this more occasionaly, even rarely. Least favourite by far of the 6 samples I have of Malle's.

    08 July, 2012

    senore01's avatar

    United States United States

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    Dune pour Homme by Christian Dior

    A pleasing, summer time scent. However, you must like the fig note in order to appreciate this one. I llike fig so I find that scent to be very good. However, I can see where a person not too keen on fig, would not want to wear. The fig note is prominent. It feels like a drier scent to me but I can pull it off well during the heat. Doesn't project well on me and longevity is not that great. However, it does it job as a summer scent only. I would rate it as a try, if you are hip on fig. Otherwise, move on to something else.

    08 July, 2012 (Last Edited: 18 July, 2012)

    senore01's avatar

    United States United States

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    Dior Homme by Christian Dior

    I have always been into the so called "Macho" fragrances since the 80's. I would not categorize Dior Homme as a "Macho" scent. But Damn!!! This juice is fantastic. I absolutely adore the pronounced iris note and the dry down. It is wonderfully unique and works so well with my body chemistry. Christian Dior hit the nail on the head with this one. It breaks with common tradition as far as men's fragrances goes, but at the same time DH created a new level of sophistication and grandeur with this one. Men should not be afraid of trying it out. Yes, it's a tad on the feminine side, but I assure you that when you go out, compliments will be showered upon you. Give it a try.

    08 July, 2012 (Last Edited: 19 July, 2012)

    voidvader's avatar

    Brazil Brazil

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    Givenchy Gentleman by Givenchy

    What a horrible scent. It smells just like many cheap generic french bottles sold as souvenirs just because it is written "PARIS". The juice is awful. Smells like strong tobacco plus green notes. Offensive and dated.

    08 July, 2012 (Last Edited: 20th July, 2012)

    someperfumes's avatar

    United States United States

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    Love Is Heavenly by Victoria's Secret

    Too sweet for me, typical VS fragrance.

    09 July, 2012

    Smelly Dude's avatar



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    Heir by Paris Hilton

    Disclaimer: I received this as a gift. I wouldn't pay for any Paris Hilton branded products with my own money!

    This is a pretty average, middle of the road scent. It actually smells a little soapy, and does not seem to be terribly complex. Sillage and longevity are not great, but then again it's not like it's a wonderful fragrance so I can live with that. A close female friend of mine told me it smells 'generic'. When I've worn it, nobody has asked me what it is ... thank goodness!

    I wouldn't buy this myself, even if it had a slightly less obnoxious brand name.

    09 July, 2012

    Naitch's avatar

    United States United States

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    Tiffany for Men by Tiffany

    I was recently in Chicago and went in to Tiffany's to finally get my hands on this much heralded cologne. Ironically I went with Tiffany Sport but changed my mind a few hours later after realizing that it was an upscale version of CK One. I also realized after having tried both on my skin, the presence of the original Tiffany was much more interesting. Indeed it is very much like Pour Monsieur by Chanel, and that's a good thing. The projection and longevity are key differences. Tiffany lasts a long time, but stays in the background close to the skin. Just when you think it's dead, it comes right back. You get that nice whiff of fragrance every so often. The drydown is powdery and evolves nicely with time. There are a lot of people who believe this is a cologne only meant for formal occasions, but I think it can worn for just a night out by those who want to project an appreciation for the finer things in life.

    09 July, 2012

    Showing 241 to 270 of 1031.