Fragrance Reviews from August 2012

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    Mimi Gardenia's avatar

    United States United States

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    Serge Noire by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Serge Noire is wonderfully atmospheric and very' noire' ,dramatic in line with how we view the Lutens line of scents . For me, there is no disappointment. I must say I was a little afraid to try it as it has the dreaded Uncle Serge Cumin in it . People seem to love this fragrance or dislike it a lot.

    From very first inhale, Serge Noire was LOVE.
    Very searing camphor start with pepper, cloves , cinnamon and I loved it. It's exhilarating like taking in clean cold fresh air scented with spice. Then in comes the beautiful somber and meditative incense smoke and I am reminded of Gris Clair. I see some similarities with Gris Clair for sure , minus the lavender .
    In all, I have this mental image of Serge Noire. It's like viewing the world in winter - lots of virgin snow everywhere , through ribbons of grey incensed smoke .You have to move your head a little from side to side to actually see the world but really, you are very entranced by the beauty of those smoke ribbons in front of you instead.
    Excellent stuff. This nudges towards masculine but really , anyone male or female can wear this wonderful scent. Very provocative and a thoughtful scent to own for always.
    No cumin detected on my skin at all ,by the way .
    Tenacity is average to good and sillage is slightly below average on me. A worthy purchase.

    02 August, 2012

    rbaker's avatar



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    Cefiro by Floris

    This is a straightforward scent, with a lemon-mandarin opening that later on is complimented by neroli and bergamot. The neroli predominates in the middle phase and gives it a more herbal character. Towards the end a fresh tea note combined with white musk appears, which is very pleasant basenote. Overall more substantive with a more mutidimensional development than many other citrus fragrances. This is a light and fresh scent in the British Cologne tradition, but in spite of poor sillage and limited projection I am getting over two hours out of this, which on me is very good for a citrus-based fragrance.

    02 August, 2012

    Mimi Gardenia's avatar

    United States United States

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    À la Nuit by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    I thought Nuda by Nasomatto was the business when it comes to jasmine but wowzah .... A La Nuit is THE Queen of the Jasmine Scents .
    It is not that I have never tried A La Nuit before but I have always tried it when I was busying bingeing on other scents at the same time.

    Out of this world bell like sweet white flowered happiness of the jasmine blooming at night . It heaves and sighs JASMINE.

    The honey muskiness at the end is deliciously addictive and complements the jasmine oh so well - never distracts from the purity of this soliflore.
    Slightly indolic- just a touch compared to Joy EDP - it is a baby in the indolic dept.
    Tenacity is not so great to b e honest . A La Nuit is a heavy hitter in the first 30 min - 1 hr. Strong jasmine and you will not mistake this for anything else. Then it all quietens down to a fairly light fragrance on me - persistent but light.
    100 % a great choice for jasmine . In fact get 2 bottles.

    02 August, 2012

    rbaker's avatar



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    JF by Floris

    An opening of orange and lemon that soon is complimented by amber and a touch of wood. The amber is never sweet or heavy; on the contrary, this is a fresh but substantive scent. Less synthetic than Cool Water and less complex and long-lasting that Creed GIT, it is good and balanced on my skin. Projection and sillage are good, and I am getting over three hours out of it.

    02 August, 2012

    jujy54's avatar

    United States United States

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    Ladyboy by B Never Too Busy Be Beautiful

    Was this inspired by Amy WInehouse's "Stronger than ME", where she calls her disappointing lover a "ladyboy" ("Feel like I'm a lady, and you my lady boy...")?

    02 August, 2012

    rogalal's avatar

    United States United States

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    Sanguine Muskissime by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

    Meh. It's got citrus on top (it's far too sweet and candied for my taste - I think it smells like Tang, which is a pet peeve of mine) and some creamy musky wood that comes in shortly. After a while, the citrus quiets down a bit and I get some of MPG's house notes (namely the sawdusty sandalwood from Santal Noble and his famous blackberry note). With time, it dulls down to a soapy sandalwood sweetened with whatever parts of the citrus and berries are lingering. All that being said, it mostly just smells like creamy fake orange.

    I'm voting thumbs down because of that darn Tang smell and because it's sort of boring. For the same idea done way better, check out MPG's Eau de Gantier, which gets the balance better and adds some compelling spices and aromatics, while avoiding smelling like Tang.

    02 August, 2012

    Francolino's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Gianfranco Ferré for Man by Gianfranco Ferré

    had forgotten this , wonderful woody scent, great sillage and duration, beautiful bottle

    02 August, 2012

    Francolino's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Jazz by Yves Saint Laurent

    keep buying small 0'50 ml bottles wherever I find them, it's so good in its original formulation, the new one smells too dry for my taste, it almost seems another scent!

    02 August, 2012

    Zgb's avatar

    Croatia Croatia

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    1881 by Cerruti

    Classic that falls into Kouros category but with less animality and tad bit more formality, a milder approach let's say. Quite creamy and I really like the pine note in it. Incredible as it may sound to you, but this scent reminds me of former Yugoslavia in summer and a sea resort. I was just a little child then, but despite that, I remember those times, that feeling.
    Nobody talks about Cerruti 1881 Man and I think that's just wrong. This perfume deserves to be mentioned much more. Thumbs up!

    02 August, 2012

    Zgb's avatar

    Croatia Croatia

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    Black by Kenneth Cole

    Ok, I'll be short about this one. Black? What's "Black" about this unimaginative citrusy with tad bit coffee junk of a perfume? "Black" is its name and the bottle. The scent itself is bland and forgettable.

    02 August, 2012

    syntheticangel's avatar

    United States United States

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    Noir Epices by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

    meh. this smells like my neighbors house in the 70's who used to make homemade candles. just the most basic kitchen ingredients here. nothing special.

    02 August, 2012

    rbaker's avatar



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    Elite by Floris

    In the top note I get orange, dark lemon and bergamot; it is fresh but not brightly citrussy. Soft patchouli comes in, a wood note and some tuberose are added, giving it depth and substance. After an hour or so, deep and rich oakmoss develops with a hint of vetiver providing a green tinge to the total picture. For the last hour a gentle pleasant soapiness is added. This is a rich, beautiful and wood-herbal-citrus-note scent. Good sillage and projection, and excellent longevity on me of over seven hours. A Floris that I find convincing.

    02 August, 2012

    Wen's avatar



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    Rush by Gucci

    A stewardess was wearing this on a flight and I fell in love with it and asked her for the name of the fragrance. I almost always get a complement when I wear it. It just gets people's attention. Kind of peppery. I'm surprised that gardenia is a top note and had I read about it rather than smelled it, I wouldn't have tried it but I just love Rush! I wear it when I want some attention for the day. Rush 2 I don't care much for, though.

    02 August, 2012

    Wen's avatar



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    Cinéma by Yves Saint Laurent

    Oh I just LOVE this fragrance! It may sound weird but it reminds me of Schweppes! Really bubbly and sparkling and a bit mischievous. It's vanilla sprinkled with stars.

    02 August, 2012

    Demond Wilson's avatar

    United States United States

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    Le Mâle by Jean Paul Gaultier

    Not a bad scent. Just way to sweet for my meat!

    02 August, 2012

    rogalal's avatar

    United States United States

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    Eau du Gantier by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

    Who poured Jicky in my citrus cologne?!?

    My first time trying this, as the civet lightly farted in under Eau du Gantier's pleasant citrus cologne topnotes, I just about wrote it off. But the smells I initially found shocking ended up being incredibly compelling. I couldn't stop sniffing myself as new combinations of aromas kept arriving with the passing hours. And now I wholeheartedly give an enthusiastic thumbs up.

    So what does it smell like? Well, it's got that standard Eau smell of citrus followed by orange flowers. It's also got some dirty fougere elements, mostly upfront lavender over poop. It's also got the MPG house notes - that sandalwood from Santal Noble and their favorite blackberry. That's an awful lot of potentially conflicting ingredients, but somehow it always smells interesting and often quite amazing.

    For one, the lavender and citrus on top combine to smell especially juicy and dirty (in a good way). The civet and the sandalwood combine to smell remarkably like Tam Dao, and there's an especially magic point in the middle where the orange blossom combines with the blackberry with the musky sandalwood underneath that's absolutely worth tracking down a sample in order to experience.

    As a side note, my sample from MPG is clearly called L'Eau Du Gantier, with an L. I'm assuming it's the same perfume...

    02 August, 2012

    Wee Scottish Scent Lover's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    L'Aimant by Coty

    Along with Chanel No 5 and Guerlain Samsara, this was my darling mum's favourite. She used to ask for this at Christmas before I had enough money to buy her Chanel or Guerlain. But even then, this remained her favourite. I don't think I could wear Coty L'Aimant, as I would be crying constantly, but I have to give it a big thumbs up, as if it was good enough for my mum, it is good enough for me.

    02 August, 2012

    BurgundyMarsh's avatar

    United States United States

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    McGraw Southern Blend by Tim McGraw

    Despite the dreadful marketing and hideous packaging, this is really quite nice. An interesting and sophisticated (in a Country Western way) dominant note of bourbon and sweet tobacco over classic, masculine underpinnings of vetiver, lavender, and amber. The balance is excellent and the materials are of good quality. The net result is pleasing with some distinction and originality and just a bit of an edge. Excellent longevity as well.

    Like most celebrity fragrances, McGraw is really a Coty product. It is worth noting that Coty, a huge, well-managed company that still bears the name of the greatest and richest perfumer of all time, is probably unsurpassed in turning out decent product at a reasonable price and can afford to take a few risks now and then (Davidoff is another Coty brand). Coty didn't get successful by accident. Too bad snobbish prejudices cause many to remain ignorant of its better efforts.

    02 August, 2012

    gimmegreen's avatar

    Netherlands Netherlands

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    Cuba by Czech & Speake

    Turpentine, a ripe cigar, saddle leather and wild scrub on farout mesa – it’s hard not to reach for clichés of rugged cowpoke virility. (Personally, give me the silk-shirted damask rose variety any day – but that’s just taste.) The impression is confirmed by a musky crotch odour that develops over time, but somehow maddeningly sexy rather than outright rank. Maybe it’s the pristine frankincense that rings clear as a struck chime right through the evolution of this fragrance. One for those daring days...

    02 August, 2012

    gimmegreen's avatar

    Netherlands Netherlands

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    Givenchy Play by Givenchy

    'Clone' may have been a more accurate name. Where else have we come across synthetic citruses floated over a watered-down woodsy-vetiver base with just a hint of anisic spice? Just about every second mass-market ‘men’s’ fragrance. Focus groups were no doubt consulted.

    02 August, 2012

    gimmegreen's avatar

    Netherlands Netherlands

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    La Chasse Aux Papillons by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Were I more generously inclined towards white florals, I’d praise this for its light touch, with an opening tuberose that goes against its nature by politely demurring to swat the wearer on the head, the dancing interplay of calorie-controlled jasmine and orange blossom, a whisper of linden. But the sum of it all is a bit ho-hum and of the laundry room once it has settled. And as for chasing butterflies – after a few hours, there is that inevitable frustration: ‘Where did it go?’

    02 August, 2012

    gimmegreen's avatar

    Netherlands Netherlands

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    Ormonde Man by Ormonde Jayne

    First impression
    Cardamom – possibly the most abused note in Noughties perfumery – quite flattens the sprightly juniper in the opening with its lardy might. Slowly the pusillanimous woods gather muttering in demure tones, shepherded by a cross, sour-tongued resin. Subsides to a muted, gently spiced sweetness that’s barely there, before slinking back up a few hours later. Someone else’s idea of ‘sensuous’, maybe.
    Second impression
    Haunted. Forget the notes progression. This fragrance just blooms with an addictive cashmere-soft complexity. Smells like nothing else. More. Gasp. Pant. More. There goes the bank balance.
    Third impression
    Try not to trust first impressions and live for this perfumed moment. That heart of oud and black hemlock is just so otherworldly, ringed as it is by soft , powdery, blissed out sweetness. This is what rapture smells like. Close your eyes, be transported to a clearing in the woods where magic is waiting to happen.

    02 August, 2012

    gimmegreen's avatar

    Netherlands Netherlands

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    Rose Praline by Les Parfums de Rosine

    Small mercies – this doesn’t smell like a chocolate coated Turkish delight. What seems like an odd pairing (chocolate and rose) is executed with the usual sophistication of this house. The gentle cardamom unobtrusively lifts the experience and the fragrance settles for a while, to my nose, on an unusual somewhat vegetal accord (the tea influence?), curious and subtle. An hour or so in, it’s a light chocolate and musk, the rose having gone into retirement. Interesting but a little too ‘languid’. Also, too much of a skin scent to be really enjoyable.

    02 August, 2012

    gimmegreen's avatar

    Netherlands Netherlands

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    Une Rose by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

    A rose, roots and all, is how the person in the shop described it to me as I tried it on, and my first impression was of finding the holy grail of rose scents. Till date well over 400 aroma molecules have been discovered that comprise the scent of roses, so there is plenty of room for variation, and those who pooh pooh the idea of rose soliflores or of smelling like a rose should really know that a rose can be suggested in thousands of ways.
    Une Rose made my senses tumble, it was like stopping after spinning round and round in a rose garden – the earth, the roses, the grasses, the leaves all seemed to weave in and out while I tried to steady myself. What fine drunkenness! I held on to that for over a year before finally buying.
    Well, familiarity showed a somewhat different creature.
    The earthy scent that had so captivated me seemed to be much more subdued than on first impression (or maybe it was an unfortunate difference in batches), a certain sharpness to the rose which brightened it considerably seemed to be more in evidence, and at times there was that uncomfortable feeling of tasting the perfume at the back of my throat. So, not quite the miracle I had waited so long for. But I have always loved the rose-geranium combination: it’s ballsy, piercingly sweet but with tart edges if done right. The geranium not only brings additional honey but foliage and refreshment. And in Une Rose, the wine dregs rounding the creation carry it so much further than the blended flowers of other, lesser perfumes. The woods in the base could have been better, with more depth, there seems to be something quite like Iso E Super lurking in there.
    I can now see that this isn’t quite as perfect as I had thought. But love rarely is, and I still love this with a passion.

    02 August, 2012

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    La Fumée by Miller Harris

    I find this to be a charming, dry sandalwood scent. Yet, I only give it a neutral rating. Here's why.
    A scent called La Fumee should be smoky! A scent which promises a lot of incense should deliver those notes in a mysterious and haunting way.
    This is a fairly safe, amiable and restrained woody scent. There are some slightly sweet spices at the beginning, and then a creamy-woody sandalwood note becomes the centre of attraction. Props to it for being dry and classy, marks deducted for not delivering on its promise.
    There's no wow-factor here for me.

    02 August, 2012

    Possum-Pie's avatar

    United States United States

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    Bleecker Street by Bond No. 9

    Wow, this fragrance has me confused. When I first applied it, I loved it. I found myself sniffing and enjoying the complex blend. After 30 min, it changed to a violet leaf and artificial grape scent that is ok in passing, but grew annoying when it stayed on me. Now after 2 hours, I am smelling some spices, leather, and possibly ink, and I enjoy it again.
    Bond no. 9 does have longevity...which USUALLY is a good thing... I really don't know if I would spend the money for this.

    02 August, 2012

    scentamenta1's avatar

    United States United States

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    Pino Silvestre by Silvestre

    I first smelled this on a co-worker 35 years ago and was impressed with the scent. I do remember buying it at the time. The girl I was dating at the time said she would not see me anymore if I got anywhere close to her with this cologne. I didn't understand what the big deal was, but to keep the peace I wore something else. Now, fast forward 35 years to the present. Individual tastes sure do change as one gets older. I recently ordered a bottle of Pino Silvestre for fun, why not. Wanted to experience whatever it was so long ago that I liked about this scent. What a letdown. I now perceive this scent as ATROCIOUS. I attribute this to the many other scents that I have worn and a kind of evolving process. I really don't care for this one anymore at all. Another very important point, Pino Silvestre does not remotely smell anything like Agua Brava. It does smell almost exactly like Hugo by Hugo Boss. Finally, I have returned the PS and ordered the Agua Brava; a cologne I have worn off and on and loved for more than 40 years.

    02 August, 2012

    MonkeyBars's avatar

    United States United States

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    The Natural by Gap

    A pleasant and surprisingly long-lasting grapefruit cologne. I agree with the comparison to Jo Malone Lime Basil Mandarin, though this is less complex. Has a good balance of sweet and tart -- I would say it's "off-dry" in Turin's turn of phrase. Easily worth the bargain-basement prices mentioned here.

    02 August, 2012

    silentrich's avatar

    United States United States

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    Amber Absolute by Tom Ford

    Had high hopes for Amber Absolute and in many ways it didn't disappoint, but in other areas it did. It has a commanding presence as soon as the juice touches oxygen. This stuff is extremely potent and loud in the opening. Also the quality is evident as it smells of a rich woody amber. The problem is that it lives up to it's name and what your left with is a super sweet syrupy cloying amber. The woods are still there, but it's just way too sweet. Some might enjoy this, but it's just not something I'd ever wear.

    02 August, 2012

    Showing 31 to 60 of 1095.