Fragrance Reviews from August 2012

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    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Séxual Sugar Daddy by Michel Germain

    I should give it a thumbs-down for the lame name.
    The scent -- fairly sweet, a bit woody. Pleasant, aside from the sweetness. Not heavy, has some spices.
    Really, this is a generic "guy" scent -- something from the Avon catalogue.
    NO fir balsam that I can deteect.
    Not oppressive, not tiresomely synthetic. Meh.

    22nd August, 2012

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Everest by Scentsational of Huntington

    For another type of scent, I might give this a thumbs up. But something which promises "fresh air and pine" should deliver those things.
    This is a soft, spicy wood scent. It is verrrrry smooth -- and that causes my reservation. I don't get any particular wood. And any fleeting wood notes are so smoothed by the amber and softened that the scent isn't very interesting in my opinion. It's a beautiful scent without any edge or interesting factor.
    The dry-down gets rich and ambery, and then I really lose interest.

    22nd August, 2012

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Concentré de Pamplemousse Rose by Hermès

    Here we have a lovely, juicy pink grapefruit. Delightful! Good enough to eat.
    This softens into a very translucent light wood note, which sits close to the skin.
    There are the merest hints of grassy vetiver, but the scent stays true to its name. I don't get much (if any) rose note. I think the longevity is acceptable, even good, given that this is a citrus-based scent.

    22nd August, 2012

    rogalal's avatar

    United States United States

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    Cruel Intentions by By Kilian

    One of my favorite clever oud perfumes.

    I'll admit, when I first tried Cruel Intentions, I hated it. The first blast of nostril-searing violet and lavender just smells weird paired with a rubbery oud. It's almost like flower-scented paint fumes in a dirty hospital or something, but it's over quickly, leaving room for a wonderful mace note to come in. Mace is that brown-smelling pie spice that smells kind of like coffee or deep woods and it pairs well with the oud and really takes the edge off the topnotes.

    Eventually, it takes on a more dark forest smell as a pinch of vetiver mixed with geranium comes in, but all of this takes place over a rich helping of ambrox, so it has that vaguely animalic thickness you get from a lot of Creeds (though this doesn't smell at all like anything Creed would do). Truth be told, the interplay of lavender and mace is done really well in Polo, and Fahrenheit is the king of mace + smoky rubber, but despite that, Cruel Intentions smells completely unfamiliar, almost like a weird accident that depends on you to wear it a few times in hopes that it will grow on you.

    22nd August, 2012

    gimmegreen's avatar

    Netherlands Netherlands

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    Al Oudh by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Act 1
    Oh. My. Goodness. This is exceptionally well done.
    As the cumin rose from my skin while trying this on, I felt ready to give up before it had had its proper spin. But there are rewards, at times, for not being hasty. In the next few minutes the cumin settled into the composition and became just a twinkle among the more carnal notes.
    For something this spicy and sharp, Al Oudh has a remarkable sparkle and buoyancy, almost as if it had been lifted by aldehydes. This is the smell of the dream lover’s bed but it’s also a leaping buck on the horizon.
    There is so much going on here: a wonderful attar-like elixir tucked deep in its core – smoky, sweet oud and rose united with the dust and tang of myriad spices; then an entire arsenal of propulsive, sharp and warm notes – cedar, incense, myrrh, with just a stroke of sandal; and then that extra something that can only be called French magic, a refining, lightening touch that sets the entire thing afloat and shimmering.
    I find spicy orientals a challenge; this is one, and yet that is not all it is. It’s like being kissed simultaneously by someone who wants to yank off your smalls and do the dirty and an angel who wants to bathe your soul in light: one feels twice rewarded, twice blessed. Thank you, Duchaufour.
    Act 2
    About 4-5 hours later, the base scent disappoints. The mystery of the attar and the oud has faded, the sweatiness gains the upper hand and the whole sinks somewhat into stale spicy oriental shorthand mode. Of course the volume has also ebbed making it less noticeable, but at this stage Al Oudh is not something I would choose to wear. The magic is played out.

    22nd August, 2012

    gimmegreen's avatar

    Netherlands Netherlands

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    Iris Poudre by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

    I find this creation to be like an interloper which has unceremoniously booted out the original occupant of this name – for this is not particularly heavy on iris nor is it powdery to any great extent. Instead, soon into its development something that reads awfully like a Guerlain accord comes to the fore: a bit of indolic jasmine with the sharpish sandalwood typical of that house and some vanilla. Before that, the opening is subtly lit with aldehydes and brightening fruity tones. Ultimately the thing heads off in a soapy, musky direction with a much cleaner jasmine still lingering.
    But what of the iris? Where is the powder and dust? The playdough? The butteriness? The vegetal otherness? The solitary hauteur? The iris here couldn’t be bothered; it is sitting somewhere in the back concentrating on its knitting.
    The final result is pretty soft and seamless, easy to wear, but I can’t muster much enthusiasm for it.

    22nd August, 2012

    gimmegreen's avatar

    Netherlands Netherlands

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    Mimosa by Czech & Speake

    So Old School it should be an exhibit somewhere. A well-constructed jasmine-tuberose combo with plenty of indolic unease and an underlying murmur of the kinds of bone dry spice mix one found in a multitude of perfumes of a certain age which have (with a few exceptions) since hit the dust. Shakes off the indole and gets creamier with time and ultimately soapy (which is the closest this gets to mimosa), but I’ll pass.

    22nd August, 2012

    drseid's avatar

    United States United States

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    Maestrale by Profumi di Pantelleria

    Maestrale goes on skin with just the faintest whiff of bergamot before a gorgeous combination of slightly salty rhubarb, rum, coriander and cedar emerges and takes center stage. Cedar is really the star here, but the rhubarb, dry rum and spices are used as balance to play off the sharp cedar. The boozy spiced cedar remains the focus through the heart, now also joined by vetiver emerging from the base that adds a bit of sparkle and effervescence. A musk mallow note softens the composition to a nice pleasant disposition in the dry-down. Projection is minimal and longevity is excellent.

    Maestrale reminds me quite a bit of one of my favorite scents that gets little love here or elsewhere called Bursch by Acqua di Biella. The notes like cedar, rum and rhubarb and vetiver are quite similar, so I guess I should not be too surprised. Unlike with Bursch, Maestrale uses a more sharp vetiver in its base to add sparkle to the cedar, while the amberette (musk mallow) going the polar opposite in the dry-down creating a nice juxtaposition. I guess Maestrale comes off as less dry, spicier and more balanced than Bursch when smelling them side-by-side. Truth be told they are starting to develop quite differently, with Maestrale keeping my attention slightly better; both are excellent to be sure. Maestrale is an invigorating combination of cedar with spicy elements that earns an "excellent" rating of 4 stars out of 5.

    22nd August, 2012

    gimmegreen's avatar

    Netherlands Netherlands

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    Phul-Nana by Grossmith

    A vital, bracing start, all orangey citrus with the warmth of tuberose – like a whole spa experience sped through in a matter of seconds. Then the flowers bloom, opened up by the bergamot at the top and the cedar of the base. There’s a kind of throwaway, effortless luxury to this which many aim for but few achieve. The heart is what makes this all so worthwhile and heavenly. Sadly only average projection after quite a few sprays. The end is reminiscent of those wonderfully subtle hair-oils of yesteryear.

    22nd August, 2012

    gimmegreen's avatar

    Netherlands Netherlands

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    Ubar Woman by Amouage

    ‘There’s a lost horizon/ Waiting to be found’ went the song about Shangri-La. Well, I’ve found it and it’s Ubar. A work of heart-piercing beauty, in which it seems a chorus of perfumery’s lost greats sing out in unison. You will have encountered glimpses of Ubar in dozens of remembered perfumes that either no longer exist or have changed beyond recognition. And here it is, thrillingly new and yet ancient.
    This has to be the first intense floral that I felt like spraying to excess; I almost had to tie my hands down. It’s like a rare, exceptional vintage, where the intoxication results from its divine flavour rather than the alcohol content.
    Ubar has natural florals in abundance, with indolic and animalic elements that would send the ‘clean’ brigade running, and the most precious sandal in its base. But there also seems to be a constellation of other notes suspended in perfect harmony. Truly the music of the spheres.

    22nd August, 2012

    gimmegreen's avatar

    Netherlands Netherlands

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    Diabolo Rose by Les Parfums de Rosine

    Why do the rose and the mint refuse to join hands and dance an airy minuet? Instead they race at each other across the floor, missing each time. Could it be that pesky pepper making their pants itch? Fortunately that’s gone rather quickly, followed by Monsieur Mint, leaving our demure rose turning into body lotion. There’s no doubting the quality of materials used in this one, but I’ll sit it out.

    22nd August, 2012

    gimmegreen's avatar

    Netherlands Netherlands

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    Je Suis Un Homme by Etat Libre d'Orange

    This is Imperial Opoponax lounging on a leather sofa smoking an Indonesian clove cigarette. Which probably makes it sound more interesting than it is. This is Old Reliable rather than Take Me On The Carpet NOW; wears y-fronts not a jock strap – more’s the pity. The drydown where a rich frankincense-heavy accord banishes the candied orange of the opening is a marked improvement.

    22nd August, 2012

    hollyc's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    M/Mink by Byredo

    When did ugly become the new daring?

    Someone spilled honey on the floor and the janitor sprinkled Dustbane on it to clean it up.

    Ghastly.

    22nd August, 2012

    gimmegreen's avatar

    Netherlands Netherlands

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    Nuit de Cellophane by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    This had such a ‘just picked’ opening (fresh cut stems, dewy flowers, slightly tart fruit) that I had to try it on my skin – where it quickly turned into a heap of white flowers put through a blender. From springlike frolic to laboured tread. Still, the quality is there, even if the march ends abruptly after 3 or 4 hours.

    22nd August, 2012

    gimmegreen's avatar

    Netherlands Netherlands

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    Spiritueuse Double Vanille by Guerlain

    Impressively grown up opening – all skidding tires on asphalt, rum and smoke. After that serious bit of fan waving, the reveal is a vanilla that is very close to food essence. Tasty and comforting for sure, but makes me long for a touch more complexity. Lasts as long as your day.

    22nd August, 2012

    hollyc's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Rubj Eau de Parfum by Vero Profumo

    Wow, wow, wow. Ripe fruit, very ripe . . . tropical, passionfruit I believe and hot unwashed body parts after carnal encounter. Truly original, striking, beautiful and erotic. Very long lasting, big sillage. You want to be careful when and where you wear this, but you definitely want to wear it! You've been warned . . . . .

    22nd August, 2012

    gimmegreen's avatar

    Netherlands Netherlands

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    Eau Rose by Diptyque

    An entrancing top on this one – nectar like and vibrant as a living blossom. A light and natural rose of the open pink-petalled variety that I will stop to sniff whenever I come across a bush. The fruit notes are subdued, with mainly the lusciousness of the lychee coming through gently to my nose. The emphasis is on the dewy and fresh (hedione, white musk); and on the sweet (geranium and honey notes), although there is enough tartness in the mix to keep it lively. The first couple of hours is reminiscent of a cleaned up Une Rose, with none of the twigs and roots and dirt that make up the surround sound of that creation.
    Good longevity and becomes more of an emanation of one’s own skin as the day wears on. The evolution is towards a blurring of contours.
    While I find much to admire in this composition, I miss richness or a twist to give it more force of character; as it stands I’d love to smell of this for a couple of hours after my shower, not for the whole day. But it remains a well done rose.

    22nd August, 2012

    gimmegreen's avatar

    Netherlands Netherlands

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    Patchouli Precieux / Patchouli Antique by Les Néréides

    Headthrobbing memories of friends who wore hippy juice have made me give patchouli a wide berth. However, this fully rounded offering won me over. The striking thing about it is its maturity – an impression of being aged to just rightness like an exceptional liqueur, opening with a gorgeously mellow rum and raisin note behind which a voluptuous patchouli makes its entrance. There is dust and must, but everything is rounded and warm and comforting here – perfect for winter wear.
    A scant application lasts the whole day on my skin which normally chews up underpowered fragrances.

    22nd August, 2012

    gimmegreen's avatar

    Netherlands Netherlands

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    Epic Woman by Amouage

    Heavy orientals are, for me, the perfume equivalent of wearing too much make-up, or eating too much cake... or wearing too much cake.
    The amber and musk of the base wore too close, there seemed to be a teeming crowd of rich ingredients thoroughly blended in. Then there was the cumin up front on this one and I thought, Betsy, this is just tooo much. But persistence has its rewards, and while they may not be orgasmic, they do offer a fine, high quality, wearable fragrance for cool weather.
    So while the start has the usual spicy density of rich orientals of a certain pedigree, I found the experience about two hours in, when the fragrance thinned a bit, to be the most compelling. A shy soft rose began to poke its head above the blend, and the spice subsided somewhat into the warm woods and vanilla. This epic creature had shed some of her more opulent garments and had become more of a flesh and blood person one could hold close and squeeze.
    (For others who can’t abide cumin; the note does fade quite quickly here, about half an hour in.)
    On subsequent wearings, the fragrance sang to me right from the start sometimes. I imagine the mind remembers the beauty that comes later on and projects it forward into the experience of the perfume.

    22nd August, 2012

    Oh_Hedgehog's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Vetyverio by Diptyque

    Diptyque fragrances tend either to be strange (Virgilio, Opôné, Oyédo) or pretty (Do Son, Eau de Lierre, Ofrésia). My preference is undoubtedly for the former, but the fruity-floral Vetyverio leans towards the latter and falls quite flat. In particular there are some jammy, almost tropical notes (apricot?) that feel out of place here. I'm not sure if conspicuous florals within a vetiver-dominated fragrance is ever a good idea, but Guerlain does a better job of it than Diptyque with Vetiver pour Elle.

    22nd August, 2012

    rogalal's avatar

    United States United States

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    L'Eau d'Hiver by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

    As far as I can tell, this is largely based on heliotropin, a chemical that smells to me like almonds, a sort of marzipan-meets-flowery-booze smell that's fantastic. It's swaddled in a plush wrap of powder that makes it feel like it's encased in a fuzzy cashmere sweater. There's a tiny pinch of cumin, which gives it a hint of sweat, but it's a very subtle "classy" sweat, like a rich lady after a day walking through a museum.

    Given time, a deep green booze smell wells up quietly beneath the powdery marzipan, which ends up being Guerlain's signature greens, that mix of fennel and sweet pea I know from L'Instant Pour Homme but that they like to use often.

    That's about it. Powdery almond marzipan with Guerlain greens. I can see how it reminds people of honey, and it stays fairly linear on me. All in all, it smells great, but I find it strangely aloof, like a rich mother in a movie who technically loves her children but doesn't really want them around.

    If you like this but want a less expensive option, or if you're interested in a warmer take on the same theme, try Hermes Eau Claire De Marveilles, which is a warmer, soapier, ever-so-slightly more gourmand version of this that shares much of the same vibe and ingredients.

    22nd August, 2012

    Darvant's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Ormonde Man by Ormonde Jayne



    Grey-green by an "aqueous-fluidy" kind of citrusy vetiver, herbal, slightly barber shop, averagely resinous and woody-incensey with all those listed high quality ingredients. Located in the middle of an ideal olfactory  line conjoining fragrances as Monocle Scent One: Hinoki, some Dsquared2,  CDG  2 Man and others, Ormonde Man is basically an aqueous (lemony-cedary) and dusty vetiver with dark mossy and smokey accents, a touch of bitterness and a widespread freshness from coriander, resins of pines and balsamic mountainous elements. It starts so minty and piquant with that peppersack full of dry spices (cardamom, juniper berries, pink pepper and coriander), aromatic notes, resinous conifers and herbs. The cardamom is prominent and imprints a sort of cool, mystic and exotic far in the memory aura around. This kind of introduction , with the support from citrus and bergamot and yet barely sweet, is compelling but restrained and moderately intoxicating. The juice  proceeds  piney, spicy, herbal and complex but in a subtle and refined way that i would call so british  but in a modern sense. The woody presence starts soon to express its reasons, some oudh turns out delicately woody rather than strongly medicinal or gassy and some soft, spicy and  cedary mildness comes out with elegance in the general shadowy atmosphere with a touch of soothing balsams, labdanum (or oakmoss?) and incense. The scent holds on cool, austere, boise' and basically sharp. The sillage is medium. Refined.

    22nd August, 2012

    hotreds's avatar



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    L'Être Aimé Homme by Divine

    Smells a great deal like a beef bullion cube/broth!

    22nd August, 2012

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Rose by Florascent

    This is in the "Aqua Floralis" line.
    Notes: May roses from Grasse, white flowers

    This starts with a green, lily of the valley floral note. It deepends into a mild and lovely rose. That's about it. Restrained, but pretty.

    22nd August, 2012

    sjg3839's avatar

    United States United States

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    Green Irish Tweed by Creed

    It's no secret that Green Irish Tweed and Cool Water smell similar. But, that's only on the initial spray. After about 30 minutes, the difference is clear. GIT will take you to a much higher level. Spray and enjoy!

    22nd August, 2012

    rynegne's avatar

    United States United States

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    Maine by MCMC Fragrances

    Tone down the strength of Bond's Wall Street by 25%, remove the salty cucumber notes and replace with Bulgarian Rose. This fragrance is everything I thought Wall Street would be. It's a delightful twist on an aquatic with Bulgarian Rose absolute, what's not to love?

    22nd August, 2012

    laventeljonnie's avatar

    South Africa South Africa

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    Bois d'Argent Cologne by Christian Dior

    I decided to give a neutral rating for Bois d'Argent. I don't get as much wood from the scent and it develops into a sweet syrupy scent that remind me of an empty sugar pot - not how I'd like to smell myself and not how I'd like others to smell either.

    22nd August, 2012

    jnkhan82's avatar



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    L'Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

    My signature scent. It smells great, and makes me feel very comfortable. I have not met one person who dislikes this. They might find it "boring", mostly basenoters not real people, because its not complex. I think complex scents are tough to wear, they're like a wild horse your trying to tame through out the journey; this on the other hand is like riding on air force one and gets you to your destination with class.

    I don't find this scent to be metrosexual in anyway though it does not smell like whiskey...I'm always confused why people want to smell like a drunk? lol

    Anyway—spray and enjoy. No matter how rough your day is or is going to be, one spray of this and your going to feel like everything will be alright. :)

    22nd August, 2012

    benzganesh's avatar

    Malaysia Malaysia

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    Absolue Pour Le Soir by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

    Stinking juice in a bottle which costs me USD 180 a bottle - given the opportunity, ill go at it again! adventurously beautiful.

    22nd August, 2012

    benzganesh's avatar

    Malaysia Malaysia

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    Un Jardin Après La Mousson by Hermès

    absoutely love this - was heavily complemented as well - smells of "Kerala" indeed! if you have ever been there spices roasted with coconut infused with melon - dry down could have been better than bordering generic, but i am not complaining - my new find i thought i'd never like this given most of this series leans towards the ladies - but i am rocking this and i love it! perhaps i claiming and marketing its a unisex fragrance, hermes done a good job!

    22nd August, 2012

    Showing 721 to 750 of 1095.




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