Fragrance Reviews from August 2012

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    Caltha's avatar
    Caltha
    Sweden Sweden

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    Phul-Nana by Grossmith

    If the re-release is anything like the original, I understand why Angela Carter characterised it with a "Phew!" in Wise Children. Phul-Nana opens with an intense blast of candy-sweet, powdery lemon, rose and geranium. Upon application it's pretty much like an intense version of Habit Rouge - that same brand of citrusy/aldehydic powdered sugar oddly reminiscent of bulk candy (for Swedes, specifically "Ahlgrens bilar"). As it warms up on skin, the powder turns more soapy, which is actually an improvement. Without all the sweet powder the lemon note appears more juicy and refreshing, enhanced by something chypre-green and vaguely floral. The sweetness becomes richer, smoother, boozier, in a way that reminds me of some thick, spicy-sweet oriental oil from Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab. In fact, the whole fragrance is quite "headshoppy" - think of the difference between a dense, syrupy floral incense and the more sharp, clean and airy versions of the same flowers present in conventional perfumery. I'd classify it as a floral oriental, with a character similar to that of Parfum d'Empire's 3 fleurs or Tauer's Le Maroc pour elle - more like perfume oils than most alcohol-based perfumes. Phul-Nana walks a fine line between luxurious and vulgar (a bit like Mona di Orio) - at that price, I don't think I'll ever buy it though I quite enjoy it, but then it's such a sillage monster my sample will probably last me a long time.

    04 August, 2012

    Possum-Pie's avatar
    Possum-Pie
    United States United States

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    Les Nombres d'Or - Ambre by Mona di Orio

    This Mona fragrance was unimpressive. It starts with a strong powder smell that is reminiscent of the old "Loves Baby Soft" preteens used to wear. I inhaled deeply and could detect ceder, but I wish I didn't need to try so hard. Amber began to appear at dry-down, but too little too late for me. I don't dislike it, BUT it isn't a Unisex. I gave it to my wife. The Late Mona di Orio has better fragrances out there.

    04 August, 2012

    Francolino's avatar
    Francolino
    Italy Italy

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    Fresco Absolute by Victor

    fresh and mysterious, nice and unexpensive

    04 August, 2012

    rbaker's avatar
    rbaker


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    Allure Homme Sport by Chanel

    A sport fragrance that has an aquatic-orange top note that even for Chanel is very aldehydic. A bit of wood and a faint bit of pepper and neroli cannot avoid the impression of being a bit watery. It is fresh all right, with medium projection and about two hours of longevity. Luca Turin was maybe a bit harsh on this one, but this does not have the genius and creativity that characterises the great Chanels; this is just good after gym for an hour or two, to put on a proper fragrance afterwards for later.

    04 August, 2012

    jujy54's avatar
    jujy54
    United States United States

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    Fracas by Robert Piguet

    Top note: tuberose
    middle note: tuberose
    base note: tuberose


    Honestly, I'm not getting the rest. Fortunately I love tuberose. Strongly resembles Jungle Gardenia by Tuvaché to my nose.

    04 August, 2012

    drseid's avatar
    drseid
    United States United States

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    Loriani by Testa Maura

    Loriani opens with a breeze of pure lavender. The lavender remains throughout, but in the heart notes it is joined by herbs resembling a combination of marjoram, thyme and rosemary that give the lavender an almost mentholated undertone coupling further with a subtle orange blossom that sits well in the background. The dry-down remains somewhat herbal with maybe a bit of well concealed vanilla in the base. Projection is very good with below average longevity.

    Loriani is definitely not my kind of scent, as it features lavender as its primary star and that is a note I tend to dislike in most compositions. The herbal blend coupling with the lavender in the heart notes is a bit harsh and only makes the lavender a bit harder to take if you don't care for it to begin with. The thing is that despite my seeming dislike for the composition I keep trying to get a whiff of it for some reason, and that leads me to believe there must be something here interesting enough to keep me guessing... It may be the herbal combination that while officially only listing thyme I think I am smelling a lot more than that. Whatever it is that is keeping me interested I think I have to give the scent a mild thumbs up and a "good" 3 star out of 5 rating. I personally don't care much for it, but I respect its differentiation from other lavender compositions.

    04 August, 2012

    Possum-Pie's avatar
    Possum-Pie
    United States United States

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    Riverside Drive by Bond No. 9

    Too fruity for me. Smells a little like Joop, but not in a good way. I can't distinguish individual notes, but it annoys me after a few minutes. Someone mentioned GIT, and in a strange way, it has an aquatic smell of GIT, BUT fruity and GIT don't mix. I was going to give it a neutral, but for the price...

    04 August, 2012

    alfarom's avatar
    alfarom
    Italy Italy

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    +MA by Blood Concept

    The former line up by "The Blood Concept", while striking as incredibly polarizing, gained the attention of loads of perfumistos around the world for its "weird" yet "artsy" concept. Fragrances inspired by blood types aimed to represent the evolution of mankind. The juices, more or less successful, were characterized by a metallic accord (the blood-accord) working as a common demeanor around which four different fragrances took life. One spicy, one leathery, one green and one completely synthetic. +MA moves in a completely different direction...

    The name +MA (Plus-Ma - Plas-Ma) is probably the most funny part. The rest of the fragrance is an almost vile concoction of cucumber flavoured cotton candy, white musk and laundry detergent with an overall bilge-like note which is possibly the closest thing to pure disgust.

    Hair-rising even for a sphynx cat.

    04 August, 2012

    Erok32's avatar
    Erok32
    United States United States

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    Bleu de Chanel by Chanel

    I love this stuff. Very sweet and fresh. This could be worn every day or for a summer night out.

    04 August, 2012

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    odysseusm
    Canada Canada

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    Le Pamplemousse by Miller Harris

    I like it.
    It starts with an excellent yellow (tart) grapefruit note -- this is really well done and has excellent longevity for a citrus note. The scent opens up and adds rhubarb, another tangy-bitter note. The scent here is very dry and bracing.
    As the scent develops further, it picks up some gentle herbal and moss notes. Basically, it becomes a citrus variation on the excellent MH Petitgrain, substituting grapefruit for orange blossom. Some grassy vetiver appears.
    The drydown is pleasant and mossy.
    If you like Hermes' Eau D'Orange Verte, give this a try.
    The fragrance notes from the company are slightly different from those in the BN directory.
    Top: bitter grapefruit, rhubarb, green melon
    Mid: Moroccan orange flowers, clary sage, rosemary
    Base: vetiver, tree moss, Moroccan cedar

    04 August, 2012

    Jim Raynor's avatar
    Jim Raynor
    Netherlands Netherlands

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    Diesel Zero Plus by Diesel

    Cautiously tried half a spray after reading some other reviews. Cinnamon is dominant and pleasant but the opening blend of the other spices smells bad to me, cannot put my finger on the exact note. The cinnamon stays throughout and the drydown is actually quite pleasant and sweet. Projection was ok, even with half a spray. Cannot comment on the longevity. I do not recommend it. Please try before you buy.

    04 August, 2012

    Jack Hunter's avatar
    Jack Hunter
    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Le Dandy by D'Orsay

    It opens with a peach schnapps accord and gets sweet with pineapple also coming into the boozy mix. These fruit accords mix in with the rum and whisky to give a alcoholic punch smell on the skin. After a while I can smell a plum note coming to the forefront. A complex scent.

    After the topnotes subside I can smell a hint of ginger with woods and cinnamon while retaining the smell of plum on your skin. As we move into the basenotes I'm picking up a spicy sweet tobacco adding to the boatload of notes.

    This smells nice and anyone who loves fruity boozy spicy fragrances should check this one out. Though for me it feels like something you would drink rather than wear as I find it a bit over the top. If it was toned down it would be more to my taste. Nice complex smell though.

    04 August, 2012

    gatorNY's avatar
    gatorNY
    United States United States

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    Harrods Oud Patchouli by Bond No. 9

    I was lucky enough to have a friend traveling through London and she was kind enough to visit Harrods and bring a sample back to the USA for me (although a very generous friend int the UK also offered to send me a sample ;-).)

    My nose is so different so I can only chime in on my perception of this. I had no idea what to expect, but I was definitely in LOVE at first whiff. I get a burst or sharp, exotic smelling floral right away. Then smokey incense notes that take me back to my days as an altar boy at St Clements School in Florida. Maybe that's the myrrh. There is a lovely sweetness that connects with what smells like amber to me next. The oud is there too, but not as "in your face" as TF Oud Wood or Bonds Harrods Swarovski Limited Edition.

    I can't really find the patchouli, which is the only thing that I am disappointed about. Maybe it's in there, and I am just so used to the street grade patchouli oil that people I work with wear every day.

    I spayed on probably 10-12 spritzes from the sample on Thursday and it lasted over 12 hours on me. The next day it was still there close to the skin, and the oud was very nice at that time too. I give it a big thumbs up. I actually splurged for the 100 ml bottle, since my partner loved it too, so want to have plenty.

    04 August, 2012

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    Khaibit108
    United States United States

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    Une Rose Vermeille by Tauer

    This is a current favorite of mine. The rose is sweet and readily-identifiable - as a rose fan, that matters a lot to me. I notice primarily the tonka bean and vanilla on drydown. It's sweet without being cloying, a little powdery, and very feminine. It's very comparable to Yves Rocher's Rose Absolue, but lasts longer and has a bit more sillage, whereas Rose Absolue has a sweeter top note and is considerably cheaper. I prefer the sillage and longevity of this one, and you can use a lot of it without it becoming headachy or nauseating. Sometimes you don't want a scent that's complicated - you just want to smell like a pretty girl, and this definitely gets the job done.

    04 August, 2012

    BeenThereSmeltThat's avatar
    BeenThereSmeltThat
    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Dot by Marc Jacobs

    Very sweet non-offensive Mangos that would be lovely on a summers day for the more fun woman!. Your at a BBQ? want to smell non offensive bubbly and fun? then this is for you. it's nothing outrageous but very pleasant :)

    04 August, 2012 (Last Edited: 05 August, 2012)

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    hollyc
    Canada Canada

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    Diorling by Christian Dior

    Hello Luvah!!! First spritz and yeah, it's old school in a big way with a large barnyard accord. I love this facet of old perfume making. I find the juxtaposition of opposing notes makes everything just a bit "more". Then there's a weird yeasty/floral period, then leather, or rather an interpretation of leather which is also what I find Bandit to be. In my mind, so far, the only fragrances that truly approximate leather for me have been Chanel Cuir de Russie and Dawn Spencer Hurwitz's Black Leather Jacket. Next some lovely florals and indoles, then barnyard, then it starts all over again. And the next day when I put on my housecoat, it was mmmmmm, which one did I put on yesterday and yeah, it was Diorling, still there, still beautiful, still intriguing. Just for info, my husband flipped for this and I have given total nasal fatigue with my "smell this and smell that". I didn't even have to ask, he volunteered, "what is that, wow, THAT I really like" While many may pine for Diorling in its vintage form (as I've stated before that's a road I won't set one toe on), the new version (2012) is very old school, doesn't smell like anything else and I would rebuy. Let's all at least give Dior credit for not abandoning all their old greats. 10 thumbs up. In fact, worth hoarding . . . .

    04 August, 2012 (Last Edited: 09 August, 2012)

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    barclaydetolly
    United States United States

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    Eau Duelle by Diptyque

    Eau Duelle and Double Vanille are by far my favorite vanilla scents, and Eau Duelle is, I believe, a bit less than half the price (and is very different). It's a nice, complex vanilla, with a papery, woody vibe that's quite pleasant. This is not a sweet scent -- I think it smells just like the paper of old (not ancient) books. I can't say longevity is great, but I get about five hours on my skin, which is acceptable. Very nice fragrance.

    04 August, 2012 (Last Edited: 23 August, 2012)

    Possum-Pie's avatar
    Possum-Pie
    United States United States

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    Wall Street by Bond No. 9

    This fragrance starts out smelling exactly like my cucumber and pumpkin vines in the autumn when I run over them with my riding mower. It isn't a bad smell, just not one I want on my skin. The vine pulp never calms down, and for the price, I will break out the John Deere and mulch up some vines if I get the urge to smell this. The one place in New York City that I wouldn't think of when I smelled this is Wall Street.

    04 August, 2012 (Last Edited: 16 January, 2013)

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    flathorn
    United States United States

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    Chance Eau Tendre by Chanel

    This one didn't do much for me either way - I don't love or hate it. I'm surprised I didn't dislike it, as I have an allergy, body and soul, to most contemporary light hairsprayish florals. But that is faint praise.
    Not similar in spirit to Chance, it confirms it's contemporary place further by that one fact - get in line, Chance Eau Tendre, child of your time, with the myriad perfume flankers out there confusing the name game. And I thought movie sequels were bad.
    But, it really is a plus for me to not dislike it, so if you're looking for a light, vaguely sweet, airy fruity floral, this actually might be worth sampling. And it might just possibly be reasonably well-constructed (though I'm not interested enough to find out). More praise than that I just can't give.
    Note: I didn't really pick up the association to Light Blue. The wonderfully blended, absolutely perfect, apple note in LB, combined with it's distinct powder, sets that one apart. To be honest, that might sum up my problem with CET - it seems so boringly similar to so many others in this genre.

    04 August, 2012 (Last Edited: 27 January, 2013)

    Darvant's avatar
    Darvant
    Italy Italy

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    Black XS L'Excès for Him by Paco Rabanne

    I agree with Silentrich apart for his confrontation spumanti-champagne (as there are many Spumanti far better than many Champagne). Anyway, more lemon and less strawberries (that was not completely eliminated in my opinion).  The strong patchouli is there and is surrounded by aromatic and ozonic accents really notable mainly in the course of the first stages (a bit angular, ozonic and fruity in a tart way).  I would add that the listed  "woody notes" produce a sort of gassy simil-oudh undertone really powerful. I prefer the regular Black Xs on the whole but this is a more brash and highly daring synthetic bomb. Not bad but not a favorite of mine for sure.

    04 August, 2012 (Last Edited: 12 February, 2013)

    flathorn's avatar
    flathorn
    United States United States

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    Rossy de Palma by Etat Libre d'Orange

    This is another chorus of my common refrain - this rose contains that most unpleasant and synthetic of rose molecules that turns harsh and hairsprayish on my skin. I love rose, but when this molecule is introduced it renders the fragrance unwearable. I smelled a somewhat sassy rose for one minute before it descended into synthetic rose hell. A scrubber.

    05 August, 2012

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    Erok32
    United States United States

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    Fahrenheit by Christian Dior

    This stuff is brutal. It smells like a combination of old man, bearing grease, and motor oil. Plus hits you like a slap in the face. Not a fan at all.

    05 August, 2012

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    rogalal
    United States United States

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    Giulietta by Tocca

    On me, Giulietta is a mix of just about every available cheap fruit candy flavor (apple, orange, pineapple, strawberry, etc.) over a huge slug of fuzzy fabric softener smell. It has a subtle floral quality, a sort of round pink feeling that implies rose while not smelling directly flowery. Despite the fancy notes list, this is the dumbest kind of fruity floral (seriously, these fruit candy fabric softener perfumes are a sub-genre that I've really grown to dislike).

    BUT, it keeps making me happy when I smell it. My inner snob is screaming at me to just write a bad review and move on, but I've honestly been enjoying wearing Giulietta. Sometimes, it's the dumbest things that make us happy. So, an embarrassing thumbs up...

    05 August, 2012

    PerfumeCollector's avatar
    PerfumeCollector
    United States United States

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    YSL pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

    I concur with Elzéard wholeheartly, a lemony mush. It is much more complex than the three notes indicated here, I can smell a lot of patchouli, lavender is also obvious in the mix, and carnation is also noticeable.
    Regardless, it is as good as my toilet cleaner, period.

    05 August, 2012

    Khaibit108's avatar
    Khaibit108
    United States United States

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    Orange Star by Tauer

    This has the perfect sillage and longevity by my standards. It isn't overwhelming, but it stays and is rather noticeable. Unfortunately, after the sweetness of the orange disappeared, I was left with a nasty green herbal/floral note that I absolutely hated. It's very grassy and mildly nauseating. It's not a total scrubber, but I won't be wearing it again.

    05 August, 2012

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    shamu1
    United States United States

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    Black Suede Leather by Avon

    Good fragrance, but where's the leather? I have to knock a couple of points off this one because there are no leather notes in this at all.

    Having said that, Black Suede Leather is a good knockoff of D&G's The One Gentleman. It really does smell almost identical to it. This means you get a dark, woody and spicy scent that smells manly, but won't offend anyone either. Dominating notes are ginger, tobacco, patchouli and cedar, with everything rounded off with some warm amber to finish it all off.

    Nothing spectacular or groundbreaking here, but it's inexpensive, comes in a cool bottle, and smells good.

    MY RATING: 7/10

    05 August, 2012

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    zztopp
    United States United States

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    Fleur de Vigne by Caudalíe

    Notes:
    Bergamot, Grapefruit and Tangerine
    Grape flower, Blackcurrant bud, green Mate, Lemon and orange
    Sandalwood and Cedar

    Given to me as a gift, Fleur de Vigne is about a plant species I have never heard of before (grape flower/plant of grapes? WTF) from a brand I had never tried any thing from before. Needless to say expectations couldnt be any lower. That said I found this light edc-type cologne to be a pleasant surprise.

    The quality of ingredients don't disappoint - it opens with a sufficiently tart citrus blast with the acidic kick of grapefruit brought into a soft focus by the juicy plushness of tangerine. The opening dissipates in seconds to bring about a sweetened blackcurrant inspired heartnotes phase of lemon and oranges. 15-20 minutes later you are left with a decent woody base mostly composed of cedar, faint remnants of tart lemons and some whiffs of blackcurrant.

    FdV is very fleeting and very light. Keep spraying it on with regularity to experience its grapefruit-orange-currant accord. It wont displace any of your current citrus heavyweights, but its not a cheaply made citrus blowhard either. Workmanlike and satisfying, it might be the Tina Fey of fragrances.

    Rating: 8.0/10.0

    05 August, 2012

    RobbieX's avatar
    RobbieX


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    Lomani by Lomani

    Dead powerful and gorgeous. Like Drakaar but has its own character. Brill scent!

    05 August, 2012

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    Jack Hunter
    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Londinium by Molton Brown

    I have a sample of Londinium and I think it's really nice. It opens with red berries and bergamont and gets mossy due to the big dollop of oakmoss. With this is the incense/ myrhh mixing in gives the fragrance a mossy resinous feel, the whisky note seems to be blended really well with the red berry accord which is quite prominent. And it is quite refreshing especially in the opening.

    As time progresses the berry note recedes and you are left with a mossy incense accord on your skin. The only thing is that it stays quite close to you and the projection could be better. But I like this a lot it is really nice and does not overwhelm, the oakmoss adds a lot to this fragrance.

    05 August, 2012

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    synthetic
    Australia Australia

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    Euphoria by Calvin Klein

    An incredibly sexy scent.
    Used to date a girl who bathed in this stuff, but all school-yard memories aside this is a potent and mysterious scent that deserves the praise it gets.
    Opens up with a citrus blast and then goes to work with the floral and vanilla that amp up taking this into the stratosphere with it's projection. The drydown is a smooth almost masculine presentation of woods and silky cream with a touch of amber.
    This stuff will LAST.
    This is one of the few scents that can make me weak at the knees.
    Depending on the weather this can get VERY cloying and the fact that it projects like a banshee can sometimes induce a headache in hot weather.

    Let it be known, this is a very common fragrance but the fact it smells so good easily redeems that minor gripe.
    If only Ck put this much effort into their Male scents.

    05 August, 2012

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