Perfume Reviews

Latest Perfume Reviews

Total Reviews: 136890

Earthtone #5 : Tropical Lagoon by Neil Morris Fragrances

This smells like an air freshener, perhaps one of the plug-in models, not a bad one, but it's a such a typical, mass-marketed smell, it's hard to be excited about it.
25th July, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Une Rose by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

The star here is the rose that greets me right from the word "go!" A rich rose, not bright and a bit in the sombre side. This rose is not very smooth, it is on the crisp side of the rose spectrum. It is not really sweet on me, and whatever sweetness I get is more from the geranium that is developing in the background.

Later, further into the drydown, it turns greener and harsher. Added in is an earthy undertone that derives from the vetiver, and a patchouli-induced spiciness is growing stronger in the base. There is a touch of black Perigord truffle indeed evident towards the end, with the spiciness having a touch of a civet character not dissimilar to the spiciness in Creed's Orange Spice.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and a supreme thirteen hours of longevity on my skin.

A wintery scent with a nice rose, but the later makers are a bit too intrusively synthetic. Another rose-spice version, with a good rose though. Unfortunately, the other notes remain on the mediocre level only. Overall 2.75/5.
25th July, 2017

Eau de Cologne by Chanel

The girly cologne
The boys must all have is proof:
Coco's style remains.
25th July, 2017
Advertisement — Reviews continue below

Tuscan Soul Bianco di Carrara by Salvatore Ferragamo

There are no listed notes in common, but this reminds me of Dolce and Gabbana The One for Men (2008). I think they may share an unlisted aroma chemical, and it's one I like, maybe. I say maybe because I gave away my bottle of The One, and I'm giving this a neutral. In both cases, I think there is an ingredient with potential, and something more could be done with it. The problem, and perhaps it's fatal, is that it smells nice initially, and loses appeal fairly quickly, but it's worth exploring, I think, to see if a structure can be built around it that's more complementary.
24th July, 2017

Eau des Minimes by Le Couvent des Minimes

Just a point of clarification: I believe the review by "Buysblind" is meant to refer to Eau des Missions (purple label) by Le Couvent des Minnimes, which actually does have an entry here in the directory.

The bottle referenced here is named "Eau des Minimes" (white label) and is a citrus cologne, not a vanilla. And I am still looking for reviews of it. (My thumb direction is meaningless, as I haven't sniffed it, but couldn't submit this note without a rating.)

24th July, 2017

Oil Fiction by Juliette Has a Gun

Stardate 20170724:

JHAGOF makes me very happy. It has the elements of old school full-on floral. Like First or Joy but modernized.
It also has that development. Again not as good as vintages or 4160 but given what is being done this is amazing.
I do not wear florals much and Mrs. E is not into this style. Our bottle of Joy EDP, K, First, Eau de Gucci sits there collecting dust.
I try to sniff once them whenever I can but it is not the same as her wearing it.
I would recommend this. One thing I do not like here is a sour lactonic note. Stays throughout. I wish it was not present at all.

Recommended

24th July, 2017

Figment Man by Amouage

I have completed three full wearings of Figment Man and have been very pleased with the performance so far. The scent opens with a very rich earthy vibe that, if you are familiar with Zoologist Bat, will have you thinking Bat, less the bananas and ripe tropical fruits. An hour into a wearing, and with repeated wearing, the similarity subsides. The earthy vibe remains but it is not cave like, nor is it constructed like Bat. It is the scent of a damp rich deciduous forest floor, early on a cool morning, or after a summer shower. It reminds me of breaking camp, in a wilderness forest, at first light. After the first hour the earthy vibe fades but remains at the core. One moment a smooth sandalwood emerges, the next it is replaced by a note of meadow grasses, then back to earth. Sitting outdoors in a gentle breeze and Figment entertains as it seems to be ever changing, as if imaginary. Ten hours in and the earth has become woody and animalic. Longevity is more than 12 hours. At no time dirty to my nose although my spouse reported a slight fecal note on opening and more animalics throughout the wearings. She opined that the scent is strong (2 sprays) and projects well. Figment is presented in a typical Amouage box with truly exceptional artwork. The bottle has a metallic coating that reflects green and blue depending on ambient lighting and is nearly translucent. Like the contents, the bottle and packaging need to be experienced in person to appreciate. 9/10 for contents, 10/10 for presentation.
24th July, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Dans Tes Bras by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

The opening is an unusual floral mix, based on a foundation of a herbal violet with jasmine in the background; this is perked up by touches of bergamot.

The drydown is sporting a synthetic sandalwood, which is a convincing as a synthetic sandalwood can be - and that is not very convincing at all. Attempts to at a rather dull spiciness cannot be said to be successful on my skin. Whatever the base adds in white musks does not raise my eyebrows either.

I get moderate sillage, fairly adequate projection and nine hours of longevity.

As fora daytime spring scent the opening is passable, although it is a bit in the weak side. The subsequent development remains thin and synthetic; the latter characteristic is not particularly unpleasant but that is all. Most of its ingredients are quite generic. 2.5/5.
24th July, 2017

Tuscan Soul Viola Essenziale by Salvatore Ferragamo

This is a nice, wearable fragrance. It has a nice iris (orris root) note. In a world with Dior Homme, this is more unisex than feminine. It smells modern and made from typical off-the-shelf ingredients circa 2013, but not cloying.

24th July, 2017

Ambre Russe by Parfum d'Empire

Stardate 20170723:

Indian spice rack in benzoin shop.
Starts with a burst of spices - whiff you get when you walk in a spice shop.
As the time goes by the amber starts shining through and takes over spices. This is the best phase of this fragrance. The top is a bit to dry and spicy for me. I wish they had more amber up top.
This probably should have been called Amber Bengale and the other Fougere Russe.
24th July, 2017

Absolue Pour Le Soir by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Stardate 20170723:

Indian spice rack with powdery amber background.
I have no idea why this is called animalic. Cumin is not animalic. It is a spice. Stinky perhaps to some. Maybe it is because sweat and BO of cumin eater smells like cumin.
Longevity is nice and there some development. Not something I can see myself wearing and not FBW.
Interesting and therefore neutral
24th July, 2017

Le Vetiver by Carven

I hardly get any vetiver in this. It primarily comes across as a fresh-green masculine, soapy and a somewhat synthetic vibe. The synthetic element disappears completely at around three hours, which is the same time when the cash runs out. Stylistically it is somewhere between Creed's Original Vetiver and Lubin's Itasca.

Mugler Cologne, Guerlain Vetiver and Lubin's Itasca would be much more compelling alternatives.

2.5/5
23rd July, 2017

Aqua pour Homme Atlantique by Bulgari

If you thought Aqua Amara was underwhelming, try this ....

Atlantique has very little of the Bvlgari Aqva DNA, and instead is yet another vile chemical disaster. It is not an aquatic, rather yet another fresh woody amber, and is a complete abomination when compared to the original, which was innovative. It's only been seven months in 2017, but this is a strong contender for being the worst release of the year.

Stick to the original or the Marine flanker.

1/5
23rd July, 2017
Advertisement — Reviews continue below

Versace pour Homme by Versace

Versace pour Homme would be an abomination compared to other notable mainstream releases of its time, including Dior Homme, Grey Vetiver and Infusion d'Homme. Curiously enough, now it is above average in a mainstream store crowded with Sauvage, Invictus, Dylan Blue, Aqua Atlantique and the likes - it will almost smell like a sophisticated Italian cologne for all of two minutes. Reconciling the two drastic experiences would reveal that this eschews meritocracy and idiocracy, and firmly embraces mediocracy. It is a run of the mill concoction on the overplayed fresh woody-amber theme, marginally inferior to and substantially cheaper than Chanel's Allure Homme Sport, which is itself a banal offering. Acqua di Gio Profumo, while somewhat different, would be recommended as a more respectable and competent offering that can be worn as an alternative.


2/5
23rd July, 2017

Iris Bleu Gris by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

It has the smell of good perfume from the 1980s (or even 1970s), the kind of thing I like, although it could use some civet, and more oak moss (the version I'm trying) to hit the highest heights.
23rd July, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Monsieur. by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

The patchouli is the be all and end all patchouli as for as the latter's dominance in the development is concerned. A patchouli that is terse, spicy but not very sharp - unlike Tom Ford's Purple Patchouli. It is neither a smooth nor a particularly sweet one either.

Fairly linear, moments of booziness alternate with phases of pleasant oriental spiciness with restrained hints of vanilla, without any civety characteristics on me.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and a splendid thirteen hours of longevity on my skin.

As a strongly patchouli-centric winter scent, less harsh that the Tom Ford or the Le Labo version, it is a bit overly linear, but a good example of a fairly balanced, albeit an unexciting representative of this species. Great performance. Not bad overall. 3/5.
23rd July, 2017

Tiffany for Men by Tiffany

Blue class, gold in glass
Smells like looks like feels like we've
All been here before.
23rd July, 2017

Al Hajjar Al'Aswad by Abdul Samad Al Qurashi

THIS is the rose I've been looking for to layer as well as wear alone. Goodness this is beautiful! So dark and full! It feels like a dark swirl of reds and pinks. Exquisite!
23rd July, 2017

Elixir des Merveilles by Hermès

I think I finally get this - and when I was offered a 30 ml in a swap, I decided to spring for it. It is by far the most bizarre of this entire "line" of scents (at what point does a flanker begin its own line?), and that is what made me come back - if this were labeled under Josh Lobb's Slumberhouse label, I believe it would have more approval - I mean, it is really weird...and wearable sometimes...but then it gets weird again. I like it like that.

Anyway, if you've always wished Josh would make an amber for the masses (he made "A", but that was not for the masses), and wondered what weird stuff you could do to amber, this is it...until Josh decides he wants to expand on "A" (hint hint).
23rd July, 2017

Amber Oudh by Rasasi

There's more going on here than just Amber and Oud. Tinged with a quiet Saffron a small bouquet of Rosy Florals supported by a Light white Musk.
Oud? Well,okay.Tonally yes.
A touch of Oud butter, Australian Sandalwood and polished bottling, Eau de Parfum labeling and it could sell beside the 500USD bottles.
Beautiful, Linear and a fine example of Eastern styling.
A cut above many other reasonably priced oils in the game.
23rd July, 2017

Explosions d’Emotions : Skin On Skin by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Any iris (orris root) in this perfume is playing a minor role. The smell of the opening reminds me of a consignment shop or second hand clothing store. The base is ok, sweeter and more agreeable.
22nd July, 2017 (last edited: 23rd July, 2017)

Un Jardin Après La Mousson by Hermès

Beautiful sadness
As sun dries away water's
Fragrant sun promise.
22nd July, 2017

Versace pour Homme Dylan Blue by Versace

Take Versace pour Homme, add the latest focus-group tested and approved aromachemicals in generous doses, and voilà! We have Versace Pour Homme Dylan Blue, a spicy-woody-aquatic featuring the dullest of spices, woods and aquatic elements but somehow managing to smell less dull and more jarring. Firmly belonging to the Sauvage-Invictus chemical factory, its olfactory assault is far less nuclear than those of its more illustrious peers. This favourable news is to be admitted with the perhaps unfavourable feature that Dylan Blue tries more to fit in, be a member of the pack, and be a ubiquitous offering of the post-modern, post-industrial, post-disinfectant world that is in perfect harmony with the concurrent heteronormative social hegemony. There is, indeed, an identity crisis at large.

Fortunately, any reference to Dylan Thomas or Bob Dylan is restricted to matters of nomenclature.

1.5/5
22nd July, 2017

Mon Parfum Chéri, par Camille by Annick Goutal

This does have the feel of an orris root fragrance, with quite a bit more going on. I suppose it's mostly the patchouli. It gives my nose the impression of peppery leather. I think it doesn't quite pass the litmus test of something I would wear from time to time, although the iris opening is promising, and it's an interesting, complex fragrance.
22nd July, 2017

17/17 Irisss by Xerjoff

A big, straightforward orris root fragrance, somewhat similar to Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist, with a distinct smell of roots, reminiscent of carrots. Not frilly. Some rose emerges in the base.
22nd July, 2017

London Oud by Fragrance Du Bois

Do you like fragrances that have oud on the label but barely smell of oud? Are you one of the few people who likes the YSL flanker L'Homme Libre, but wish it cost 20x more? If so, this is an exciting day folks - London Oud is here to answer your prayers!

That snarky intro isn't totally fair. There very well may be real Laotian oud in here, with its straight-laced lacquered tone and airy nuances of fruit, but I honestly think this smells 90% identical to L'Homme Libre. I do like L'Homme Libre quite a bit (the only L'Homme I like) therefore I also like London Oud. London Oud smells a bit more polished, softer, and rounder. Overall, it is more interesting.

For details of what London Oud smells like, check out reviews for the YSL, or get a sample from LuckyScent like I did (worth a sniff for $6). The pyramid for London Oud here is considerably different than that of the Fragrance du Bois website, which shares more notes with Libre, patchouli being the most important.

100ml of L'Homme Libre can be had for ~$45
100ml of London Oud can be had for ~$860

The latter smells of quality more so than the former, but I know which I'd pick.
22nd July, 2017

Badr Al Badour Attar by Amouage

This is one time when my experience of wearing a perfume was exactly like the note pyramid. I'm always looking for a beautiful rose/oud fragrance and thought perhaps this was the one. But no, the absolutely gorgeous rose makes a brief appearance and then the oud...continues on for ages.
22nd July, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Une Fleur de Cassie by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

The opening is a pleasant floral potpourri, with a nice jasmine in the foreground in my skin, accompanied by carnation and mimosa draped over a underlying carpet of a violet that blends in well as a backgound. This is a very agreeable start. The sweetness of this floral bouquet is quite restrained, which prevents it from suffocating the delightful
flowery top notes.

The drydown starts promising with a good rose impression, that assumes some fruity and aldehydic characteristics. This is less vivid and less intense than the beginning.

By the time the base notes with its mix of woods, tonka and white musky arise, they have become quite faint and are more shadows than real notes.

I get soft sillage, and adequate projection initially that gradually deteriorates, and five hours of longevity on me.

A spring daytime scent with a very commendable and satisfying, albeit not very original, beginning, which becomes increasingly anemic in intensity as well in the quality of the ingredients. Towards the end, it unfortunately has turned quite generic and lost structure. Overall 2.75/5.
22nd July, 2017

Felanilla 21 by Parfumerie Generale

Felanilla is an iris-heavy oriental perfume from 2008. It came on the heels of two other irises in the Parfumerie Generale Line: Iris Oriental (née Iris Taizo) in 2006 and Cuir d’Iris in 2007. The three were part of the ‘new iris’ trend of the mid-’00s that blurred the line between mainstream and niche. The Parfumerie Generale perfumes and other independent perfumes like Frederic Malle Iris Poudre, Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile and Ormonde Jayne Orris Noir were matched head-to-head by Dior Homme, Prada Infusion d’Iris and Gianfranco Ferre Ferre EDP.

Felanilla hit the scene at a very particular moment for iris. Niche perfumery was exploding and designer brands were keen to steal niche’s fire (and revenue). Guerlain, Cartier, Hermès, Dior, Chanel and the like were investing heavily in new ‘exclusive’ luxury sub-lines to lure niche customers out of LuckyScent, Osswald and Les Senteurs and into their own boutiques. Niche brands had always viewed themselves outside the mainstream. They were better than ‘ordinary’ perfumes because more inventive and more daring. The new high-end designer lines reversed the logic of the indies focusing on exclusivity rather than inventiveness. These new premier lines didn’t phrase themselves as outrageous or even as much different than their department store counterparts. They were simply more select and therefore more desirable. They were just better.

Iris was the perfect note to bridge the divide. (This was a heartbeat before oud.) Historically, orris denoted luxury and prestige. On a practical level, iris had an affinity with berry and chocolate notes on one side, sheer woody notes on another and powdery floral notes on still another. The versatility of the note created an effortless range from the sweet tooth of Guerlain Iris Ganache to the restraint of Chanel 28 La Pausa. The flexibility allowed for new sophisticated styles of gourmand perfumes at a time when a large cohort of young women were outgrowing the syrupy fruity-florals and cupcake gourmands they had worn for the past 5-10 years.

Felanilla veered away from the sweet end of the spectrum, but with a focus on vanilla it did comment on gourmandism, if obliquely. From a certain angle it smells like a dessert recipe that forgot the sugar. Like cough-syrup flavored buttercream icing. But the lack of sweetness had a point. It seems to say, ‘if you’re looking for sexy, the curves are in the vanilla, not in the sugar.’ From start to finish vanilla sits unadorned at the center of the perfume. It is fairly austere at the outset but gradually loosens its posture and settles into a more relaxed stance. A potent saffron note marks Felanilla as ‘of its era’ as much as the iris does, but the slight metallic touch it creates suits the overall firmness of the composition.

The iris and vanilla pairing might be a nod to Shalimar, but Felanilla skips the citrus lead-in and the sweet, smoky, powdery circus of the Guerlain classic. It freeze-dries the bulky classic oriental structure and shakes off the ornamentation, pairing down to essentials without a hint of nostalgia. Seen as an oriental, Felanilla doesn’t seem to fit any particular trends of the time. It does, though, compare interestingly to the ‘new irises’ that independent perfumers were devising at the time: Histoires de Parfums 1889, Serge Lutens Bas de Soie, le Labo Iris 39, l’Artisan Parfumeur Dzongkha, Parfum d’Empire Equistris. Guillaume had previously placed iris in a woody, savory-gourmand setting in Iris Oriental and against a sweet-leather backdrop in Cuir d’Iris. Felanilla continued the investigation of iris, focusing on the woody-balsamic range that Guillaume and the Parfumerie Generale line would become well-known for.

The state of the perfume market in the mid-late ’00s left me on the fence. I disliked the cynical trend of price-jacking that the exclusive lines fostered, but I loved the innovation that lead to exciting new approaches and styles. The trend of ‘new-irises’ might have been co-opted by the luxury houses, but it also gave us a broad range of imaginative and gorgeous perfumes. Guillaume’s irises capture the up-side of the time and have survived the test of time extremely well. 10 years later they compare favorably to any iris perfumes that have come along since.
22nd July, 2017

Oil Fiction by Juliette Has a Gun

The opening few seconds seemed like a promising, simple perfume, but it started going through a rough patch within a couple minutes, becoming more complex, or fractured, and smelling to me like cleaning product, with modern woody notes added. I found this period borderline offensive. Into the base, the woods and the floral notes came together more harmoniously, and almost worked for me, with maybe just one ingredient putting me off.
21st July, 2017 (last edited: 22nd July, 2017)
Advertisement