Latest Perfume Reviews

Vanilla Smoke by Aftelier

I have been collecting vanilla perfumes and the challenge is to find fragrances that do something special with the smell of vanilla because it is so intoxicatingly easy to enjoy vanilla all by itself - but who wants to be just plain vanilla! Not Mandy Aftel. Vanilla Smoke has a couple kinds of vanilla, a resinous quality and also a few stutter steps and structural dodges that add thickness, movement and depth within the warm vanilla story. Some of the best parts to the Vanilla Smoke dance are: Lapsang Souchong tea for bitter depth and, Saffron for scintillating edges, and Siam Wood for a honeyed fixative resinous thickness to hold all the parts. Despite the name this is not a smokey vanilla but is a thick, interesting, resinous warmth that avoids sugary vanilla - thankful for that. Rated 7 of 10 stars, shorted only for how quickly it fades to a pleasant skin scent afterthought, which is the curse of purely natural ingredient perfume.

31 rue Cambon by Chanel

Stardate 20170727:

A nice jasmine-iris floral. Jasmine generally overpowers any floral fragrance but here the balance with iris is struck well.
Old school floral style minus the aldehydes.

Thumbs up

Dryad by Papillon Artisan Perfumes

The opening of Dryad is matched and surpassed only by the drydown which is beautiful and long lasting.

There are chypre elements to this fragrance but there are floral, spicy whispers to.

I am not a galbanum fan but the accord in the base of that note and moss is offset by the addition of benzoin which sweetens and softens these green elements and is a work of genius.

This will be one of my top five scents of 2017 without a doubt.

Hermèssence Osmanthe Yunnan by Hermès

Osmanthe Yunnan floats in the air like a gentle memory of floral tea; a dry scent that tantalizes with hints and bits of flavor and aroma that while incomplete individually, form a composition of harmonic hues assembled into a satisfying completeness. This is a tea ceremony with that rare tea aroma of soft woods, sueded leather, osmanthus flower, bitter steam over white tea leaves, apricot skin, mist off the mountains from Yunnan province. This perfume is a creation that resonates a subtle beauty, the impressionistic mastery from an artist of aromas - the maestro, Jean Claude Ellena.

L'Eau by Tauer

I'm disappointed with L'Eau.

The opening is gorgeous and bodes well but I feel that the progression to what is a fairly standard ambergris and musk finish via a fairly tame iris note is a bit predictable and slightly reminiscent of other Tauer drydowns.

I can't call this fragrance 'fresh' except for the top - I actually find it a little flat.

Having said that, I'd be happy to wear it occasionally -- I suppose my expectations were too high.

Myths Man by Amouage

The opening is a development of floral impressions, with a well-executed Chrysanthemun and an Iris; both compliment each other well but the Chrysanthemum dominates initially. This unusual duo plays together harmoniously; the result is only restrainedly sweet on me.

The drydown is characterised by labdanum rising, adding a crisp spiciness with a floral background remaining, which is mainly provided by a somewhat mediocre rose. Orris comes up here and there too, adding a darker herbal touch. The base provides a change if direction once more by creating a leather impression that is not particularly smoky and more on the smoother side.

I get moderate projection, excellent projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

A pleasant spring creation with good core notes especially at the beginning. The floral-spicy theme is not new but enriched here by some original touches. 3.25/5

Shazam! by 4160 Tuesdays

This has a lot of development over the first hour. It starts with a nice tangerine note, turns harshly modern woody-amber and frankincense, then settles into a lighter frankincense with citrus with a touch of sweetness, becoming faint surprisingly quickly.

Frankincense is a tricky note. It eventually works well here after a harsh period, with a hint of orange chocolate emerging. I'm giving this a neutral with the qualifier that I'm not a big fan of frankincense.

Sex Goddess by 4160 Tuesdays

There's a tart note I assume is blackcurrant, a little too sharp for me even after it dies down and fades into a sweeter, softer, fruity accord with the raspberry. I liked the raspberry more in the cream the way it was in Vintage Cities New York.

Vespero by Jeroboam

Vespero is a very handsome fragrance and holds unflinching character of strength and backbone. Opening with a glimmer of grapefruit tartness the perfume scent rolls out from the depths and plunges the wearer into a bone dry, patchouli darkened leather heart, which doesn't back off and holds strong through the base which is almost charcoal in its dry leatheriness. The soft/dry character of this particular musk base reinforces the breathless - after the ashes have settled - leather dry accord which gives Vespero its character. Rated 8 of 10 stars.

Santo Incienso by The Different Company

Santo Incienso is a light green cedar and palo santo wood fragrance that breathes an effervescence of ozone lightness that creates a shimmering and lasting presence. The elevating ocean breezes off the Pacific up through giant Sequoias is a what I think of here so I am convinced that Palo Santo forest by an oceanside might be an inspiration. There is a simplicity about this light green soft woods that is pleasant to smell and lasting. The note combination reminds me of aroma of cedar and palo santo used as a base in many Fueguia 1833 fragrances - might this be a South American regionally specific note? A soft musk keeps the base light without smoke or powder, and hedione adds a sanguine pineapple spritz to the green aspects. This is not a deep bell toned incense but is the constant ocean breezes on sparkling chimes through an evergreen palo santo "holy wood" forest. A refreshingly light incense!

The Vintage Cities: Rome 1963 by 4160 Tuesdays

To me, this smells like a warm, spicy, red leather. Another wonderfully interesting fragrance from this house.

I agree with Darvant that it's similar to Annick Goutal Mon Parfum Chéri par Camille, although I easily like this one more. I also feel like this could work as an upgraded version of Mona di Orio Cuirs.

What I'm smelling as leather I can accept as the listed notes of cedarwood, tobacco, and patchouli. This is delicious. It's rare to smell something so accomplished.

This is warm with a touch of smokiness. Again, I agree with Darvant, "really pungent but at same time gracious and hyper chic."

Bigarade Concentrée by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Yup, summer, summer, summer. Orange/lemon with Bigarade-type bitter tartness but a touch softened. Very lean. Very refreshing. Very convincing. This phase lasts an hour.

The drydown exudes a dried grass aroma with woodsy undertones. Less exciting but pleasant.

I get moderate sillage initially, adequate projection and five hours of longevity on the skin, with most of it being very much a skin scent.

A typical Cologne. Less intense but tarter than Creed's Citrus Bigarrade and with a less interesting drydown, but overall with better longevity - the latter is very good for a summer Cologne. 3.5/5.

The Vintage Cities: New York 1955 by 4160 Tuesdays

It doesn't really smell especially vintage-y to me, or natural, whereas I expect a dose of nature in 1950s vintage, but it's interesting. It's supposed to smell like raspberry and cotton candy (aka cotton floss). From the little I've sampled this house (Raw Silk and Red Roses, which impressed me, and Doe in the Snow, which was more of an interest than love at first smell), I think this may have some familiarity as a housemate (or my memory could be playing tricks on me, and it's reminding me of something else).

This is striking me as interesting, impressively ambitious, and edgy, but not a shoo-in for stealing my heart. But almost.

I like the ambition, and it has intrigue, and a whimsical, artistic flair. Also, the base notes have some gravitas. These are deep dark, florals, and the musk must by synthetic, but it's tastefully selected. I do smell a raspberry note. Although cotton candy is a listed note, it's not too sweet.

Earthtone #5 : Tropical Lagoon by Neil Morris Fragrances

This smells like an air freshener, perhaps one of the plug-in models, not a bad one, but it's a such a typical, mass-marketed smell, it's hard to be excited about it.

After some of the marked air-freshener likeness has died down, there are some nice elements, mostly a nice dryer sheet smell, but also a hint of some fruity, summery smells, and I can smell how having "Lagoon" in the name fits. It's sweet and fruity with a hint of salt water.

No. 19 by Chanel

Stardate 20170725:
Another great floral from Chanel.
Starts green and while it has the dreaded galbanum, I enjoy it. Very well blended.
The green gives way to florals - soft and beautiful.
I think unless one is a frag head one does not realize how rare and beautiful this soft ethereal floral accord is. Not many can do it.
I think this is better than the big brother No. 5
A big thumbs up.

Hermessence Iris Ukiyoé by Hermès

Stardate 20170725:

A typical Ellena fragrance. Starts with a promise - iris and florals. Has old school floral vibe which is a good thing.But as we enter middle of heart phase a plastic note emerges which destroys the fragrance.
A neutral to mild thumbs down.

Une Rose by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

The star here is the rose that greets me right from the word "go!" A rich rose, not bright and a bit in the sombre side. This rose is not very smooth, it is on the crisp side of the rose spectrum. It is not really sweet on me, and whatever sweetness I get is more from the geranium that is developing in the background.

Later, further into the drydown, it turns greener and harsher. Added in is an earthy undertone that derives from the vetiver, and a patchouli-induced spiciness is growing stronger in the base. There is a touch of black Perigord truffle indeed evident towards the end, with the spiciness having a touch of a civet character not dissimilar to the spiciness in Creed's Orange Spice.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and a supreme thirteen hours of longevity on my skin.

A wintery scent with a nice rose, but the later makers are a bit too intrusively synthetic. Another rose-spice version, with a good rose though. Unfortunately, the other notes remain on the mediocre level only. Overall 2.75/5.

Eau de Cologne by Chanel

The girly cologne
The boys must all have is proof:
Coco's style remains.

In New York by Van Cleef & Arpels

A fresh and engaging scent from start to finish. Longevity and sillage being moderate. For me, the top notes monopolize throughout with the Italian Lemon and Mandarin quite brash in the opening then it settles down to the Marine Notes which hold steadily throughout the day. Wearing this fragrance is like sailing on the Atlantic with New York's skyscrapers in view; so oceanic, crisp, and clear. The bottle is awe-inspiring too - it looks and feels minimal, sleek, and elegant - akin to an aluminum and glass structure located on Fifth Avenue.

Lavender by Floris

Just received a bottle of this from Floris today. What a lovely lavender scent! To me Floris's Lavender seems like a cross between Yardley's English Lavender and Agua Lavanda Puig (Floris's Lavender is definitely a more natural lavender than the current Yardley formulation). It's clean, simple, and elegant.

Aventus by Creed

A true masterpiece and definitely my signature sent hands down. This particular fragrance was the one who put me on my journey of becoming a true enthusiast and frag-head!

Demeter Naturals - Rose by Demeter Fragrance Library

It's a very green, "itchy" rose. Quite simple, a bit agressive from too much freshness in the opening. Longevity is average, but more than your average Demeter. Sillage is good while it lasts. Good value.

Lys Méditerranée by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

A perfectly nice perfume, probably most notable for what it isn't than what it is.

With the 90's marine perfume fad leading into the 00's aquatic fad, it became quite popular to try to make "aquatic florals" by mixing lily chemicals with cucumber and salt. There are a lot of those out there, and they're starting to smell pretty dated.

Thankfully, Frederic Malle went for the long game with Lys Méditerranée, opting for a timeless white flowers accord and a pinch of powdery musk as the backbone of this, his lily perfume. It's quite nice, with a hint of orange blossom for richness, though the powder can get a little sneezy when over-applied.

All told, Lys Méditerranée deserves a thumbs up, though I think there are more interesting lilies out there (Guerlain's beautiful but prohibitively expensive yearly Muguet perfumes spring to mind, as well as Cartier's interesting lily/chocolate Basier Vole). One for the floral fanatics.

Tuscan Soul Bianco di Carrara by Salvatore Ferragamo

There are no listed notes in common, but this reminds me of Dolce and Gabbana The One for Men (2008). I think they may share an unlisted aroma chemical, and it's one I like, maybe. I say maybe because I gave away my bottle of The One, and I'm giving this a neutral. In both cases, I think there is an ingredient with potential, and something more could be done with it. The problem, and perhaps it's fatal, is that it smells nice initially, and loses appeal fairly quickly, but it's worth exploring, I think, to see if a structure can be built around it that's more complementary.

Eau des Minimes by Le Couvent des Minimes

Just a point of clarification: I believe the review by "Buysblind" is meant to refer to Eau des Missions (purple label) by Le Couvent des Minnimes, which actually does have an entry here in the directory.

The bottle referenced here is named "Eau des Minimes" (white label) and is a citrus cologne, not a vanilla. And I am still looking for reviews of it. (My thumb direction is meaningless, as I haven't sniffed it, but couldn't submit this note without a rating.)

Eau Folle by Guy Laroche

My review is for a vintage full mini bottle of the "Toilette Fraiche" with no discoloration, evaporation, or increase in viscosity. Despite that, I believe there to be a little bit of "vintage skank" at first, indicating a low level of damage.

This opens with a huge blast of blindingly sweet aldehydes atop lemon, bringing to mind vintage Climat edt. Very soon, though, the similarities end. Eau Folle immdiately launches into a dirty citrus with authentic animal notes. The "green" is in the form of Galbanum, to my nose. Not a fresh green, but an earthy, dark, mossy green. My best guess for the heart is a classical accord with Jasmine, LOV, & Rose. Base is Oakmoss, Civet, and maybe Patchouli. Overall impression is tart and dry, not oily, and definitely unisex.

This fragrance is intruiging and quite dated. The citrus/leather theme is one of my favorites- the notes cancel each other out in a way that both can be overdosed. See vintage versions of both sexes of Eau de Rochas, vintage Diorella, Eau Fraiche & Eau Sauvage, vintage Balmain Monsieur, Eau de Patou, Boss Spirit, and Eau de Fraicheur by Worth for comparisons. A difficult wear for anyone not a lover of vintage pragrances.

Brooklyn by Gallivant

This is a lovely and easy to understand fragrance that tells a little story on your skin.

It starts off very candy sweet/citrus with a hint of spices and that lasts for about 2 hours. This is a very pleasant aroma that is refreshing, juicy, but not gimmicky or juvenile.

After a few hours the sweetness fades away and you are left with a resinous, yet crisp blend of Musk, Bergamot, Amber and Orris.

I love the way this develops on my skin, and even though it is very strong in the beginning, I like the way that it becomes more intimate in the drydown.

Overall it is one of the safe fragrances from Gallivant, but nonetheless very beautiful and successful.

Cuba Magnum Black by Cuba Paris

Pretty good cheapy. It is basically Cuba Black with some cacao. Cacao may not be a note but it is there somewhere in the mix. This gives it a slight Dior Homme vibe. Well if you don't have any iris notes.

Oil Fiction by Juliette Has a Gun

Stardate 20170724:

JHAGOF makes me very happy. It has the elements of old school full-on floral. Like First or Joy but modernized.
It also has that development. Again not as good as vintages or 4160 but given what is being done this is amazing.
I do not wear florals much and Mrs. E is not into this style. Our bottle of Joy EDP, K, First, Eau de Gucci sits there collecting dust.
I try to sniff once them whenever I can but it is not the same as her wearing it.
I would recommend this. One thing I do not like here is a sour lactonic note. Stays throughout. I wish it was not present at all.

Recommended

Versace pour Homme by Versace

A very sophisticated and smooth fragrance.Easily lasts 8 hours with moderate sillage.
I would rate this a solid 8 out of 10.Both Versace Eau Fraiche & Pour Homme complement each other.Versace Eau Fraiche is a casual all summer beach scent &the brother Versace Pour Homme is the formal warm weather scent which can be worn all round the year.Versatile.
Versace does know how to make crowd pleasing scents and that's what VPH is exactly.A crowd pleaser with complements assured.
Fresh,citrusy,flowery musk is what the scent is.