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Anné Pliska is a big, spicy amber that wastes no time on top notes but instead goes straight to the smoky, syrupy-sweet heart of the matter. In weight and character Anné Pliska is not all that far from Ambre Sultan, though it does not share the Lutens scent’s peculiar oregano and bay leaf accents. Indeed, with its abundant dark spices and dried fruit overtones Anné Pliska could easily be mistaken for something in the Serge Lutens line: it’s sweeter, fruitier, and a touch brighter than Ambre Sultan, less spicy than Arabie, less smoky than Fumerie Turque, and less woody than Chergui. In short, it’s akin to the part of all those Serge Lutens scents that makes them smell alike to some people, without the bits that make them smell interesting to other people. Or, to put it even more simply, it’s a little bit dull.
As is so often the case with dense amber scents, Anné Pliska lands on the skin with a resounding thud, and then stays more-or-less in place for several hours without altering too much in content or character. (The effect of olfactory stasis should come as no surprise, as amber components are by nature tenacious, high molecular weight base note materials.) It’s neither shy nor overwhelming in sillage or projection, and I’d consider it completely unisex. If you’re in the market for a straightforward amber scent, rich and sweet, but none too challenging, this is one to consider alongside L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Ambre Extrême or Montale’s Blue Amber. If you want more edge on your amber, go for Ambre Sultan or Ambre Russe, and if you want more depth and complexity seek out Maïtre Parfumeur et Gantier’s Ambre Précieux.
08th June, 2014