Barbara Herman likes the combination of orange blossom and basil: the herb, plus the dryness of the cassis, bringing down the sweetness of the orange to an herbal base. So do I. The base is warm, spicy and woody, as she points out - which gives it the overall feel of a fruity oriental.
It is quite pleasant, but is for me in no way special or interesting. Thus the neutral review. I wish the base notes had been upped and the perfumer had taken the chance of making this a more floral/animalic oriental, since all the players were there, just not mixed appropriately for my taste.
Top notes: Bergamot, Lemon, Cassis, Basil, Neroli
Heart notes: Jasmine, Orris, Muguet, Tuberose, Geranium, Cedarwood, Sandalwood
Base notes: Ambrein, Tonka, Benzoin, Oakmoss, Olibanum, Civet, Musk
This review is for the current EDP.
I really don't like the opening - strikes me as very harsh and bitter - though I've learned to wear one spray in warmer weather, where it quickly blooms into a soft, deep, billowing, powdery scent that manages to be elegant and approachable at the same time. The green bitterness I initially don't like proves to make the scent balanced and harmonious as it develops.
For that reason, Boucheron has taken the place in my perfume wardrobe of two older scents that were favorites of mine before reformulation - Must de Cartier and Estee Lauder Private Collection. The counterpoint of bitter green notes, white floral, and vanilla or amber is just so divine and velvety when it's done well, and it's certainly done well here.
I hadn't grown into Boucheron yet when it launched, so can't compare the versions offhand, only know that I feel quite lucky to have it now as I've lost so many of my great ones, even my old vulgar orange blossom/green/vanilla favorite: the original Dior Addict.
Genre: Floral Oriental
Boucheron launches on a lovely honeyed neroli accord and fills out, via tuberose, tonka bean, and sandalwood, into a rich, mellow floral bouquet that rivals even Joy, Van Cleef & Arpels First, and Givenchy’s Le De in depth and balance. The decadence of indole and the lightest touch of civet lend animalic warmth without distracting from the larger-than-life floral heart, while the silky sandalwood provides a dry counterpoint to what might otherwise have been an overly sweet and heady composition.
Sillage and projection are both ample, though Boucheron is not of the same megaphone-wielding volume of its near contemporaries, Giorgio and Amarige. Boucheron endures well on the skin, with a smooth, sweet tonka (coumarin), resin, and musk drydown that generates an appealing warmth while avoiding any trace of the stuffiness that large scale white flower-centered floral-orientals sometimes lapse into. A worthy foray in a field made competitive by so many other classic entries.
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I tried to wear Boucheron - for 2 years - in the early 1990s as a very young woman. Even then, at the height of my naiveté and arrogance, I knew it was just too big for me. Twenty years later, it may still be too big for me. But then as now, I appreciate Boucheron for the giant it is and was. My memory of it is pure elegance. Orange blossom and clotted cream. I do not remember any sharper notes, just a huge powdery blast that although it went through several incarnations of powder and cream, did not stray from that softness. I love Boucheron for the time of my life it represents. It brings a wry smile to my face when I think of the awkward, unsophisticated, younger me trying to fit such a pretentious, accomplished fragrance.
22nd January, 2014 (last edited: 03rd February, 2014)
Bowled me over
A saleswoman wafted some in my direction and I was a goner, images of operas, long gowns and jewelry immediately in my mind. At home I sang its praises and a bottle forthwith showed up. What a distinct, deep floral, not for the timid.
Pros: Powerfully female
Boucheron should be a thumb up for a person like me, in love of strong and vintage parfumes. But it is a neutral. Perhaps is its too oldy drydown, perhaps is it to sweet and doesn't evolve well. There is something that doesn't intrigue me. Boucheron should be a floral but what I perceive is too heavy to remind me of flowers.
What I appreciate is its warmth and class. And the beautiful rounded bottle that stands perfectly in my hand. A nice sensation: an object thought and designed having in mind the gestures of a lady spraying in front of the mirror.
I might be yet to grow into this, though I'm no spring chook. It is uncompromising in its lack of top note frippery; it's straight and solidly to the point. With notes as deep and broad as these, it's surprising that there is not so much warmth. This is not so much sensual as forceful. If I were chairperson of a corporation, or party leader, this would tko any opposition before they had a chance to speak. Great psychological warfare.
What made this perfume radiantly beautiful was for me starting out late one night by car on a rush trip to a film with a really good hot cup of espresso in my hand. The combination with Boucheron brought the Boucheron complexly and richly into my less prosaic, less disciplined world. A homecoming most wholeheartedly welcome.
I love it, even if it's too ESTJ for me.
Started out quite nice. No burn on the initial spray. It settled into a soft powdery scent, which was pretty okay-ish, but then it transmogrified into a harsher version of those Necco wafers in the waxed paper tube. Spicy powdery candy. I guess that's the tonka bean rearing its massive head.
Very robust. I tried to wash it off and it wouldn't go. Now I'm scared of it and hide behind a display case whenever I cross its path in a department store.
Since I like it and cannot stand it at the same time, I'm giving it a neutral.
Viscous, plasticine, busier than a Byzantine mosaic and as finely wrought, but the buxom lavishness comes on like a bordello madame. And what is she selling? Boucheron has an amber agenda, a slick citrus schtick, oxymoronic or not vanillic dominatrix, bridesmaid fighting violently over maximalist white and orange bouquet gold digger slash murderess aspirations, and on and on. Thrilling on the right opera diva. For those less given to dancing in fountains in strapless gowns, original formula Rochas Byzance is a dreamlike, more nuanced take on post-opiated excess that I much prefer to Boucheron.
I have worn this for year and have loved it....but the last two times I purchased it the scent seemed to dissipate quickly and the vanilla tones were missing. Is it me or have they changed the formula?????
Boucheron is a must for lovers of modern French perfumery. I has a lush and classical feel in the warmth and the rich florals of orange blossom and tuberose. "The Guide" rates this highly yet infers it is a bit obnoxious, describing being near someone wearing Boucheron is like being photographed next to a colossal marble foot as big as a car, but I disagree.
I prefer the Boucheron in the EDP. It is indeed powerful, but it is glamourous and attracting notice. This is not for a wallflower. Apply to suit your skin and the weather and you won't knock anyone out. Instead, enjoy this opulent fragrance.
It opens with a hint of floral (neroli?) and a touch of green bitter, then falls into a creamy oakmoss, sandalwood, teensy bit of civit loveliness. I just bought a small bottle of the EdP, and may be in love, and will be looking for more of the 1988 vintage juice.
It moves through its notes, not in a linear from here to there way, but in a nice circle of effect. The neroli gives way to the green and that carries the flower and herb right into the spice/sweet benzoin bones of the composition.
It projects well, and the drydown is lasting but not overpowerful.
i had the chance to test both the vintage edp and edt recently. interestingly, i prefer the edt as the edp came across as sweeter, heavier and lacking in some the effervesence that the edt has. i ended up buying the vintage 75ml edt refillable. a classy oriental floral that does not smell like grandma! :)
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In the same vein of the more severe, expansive (aldehydes) "old fashioned" and inflexible First, of the more mellifluous and indolic Amarige and of the slightly more dusty, rooty and animal Cassini, this masterful and woodsy combination of the starring neroli, tuberose, smoky sandalwood and mossy benzoin discloses the renowned and sophisticated smell of the famous concoction. The general balance is sheer, the mildness is restrained by woods, the soapiness ( initially plain) is well combined with the other elements and with the creamy balsams,the sophistication is enhanced by a slightly rooty iris, the final powderiness is not exaggeratedly talky, the sensuality is exuded under appointment of a smart dosage of animal and tasty civet plus musk and amber, the smokiness is barely pushed up in order to set the bath soap kind of smell on the side of oakmoss and benzoin, in order to shadow the initial white radiance and to tame the sweetness of florals and balsams. The initial blast of citrus is moderated in intensity and enveloped at once by a taming milky dust. The floral sumptuousity is supported by a radiant jasmine combined with the slightly exotic and tasty note of ylang-ylang. The last supposts the tastiness of vanilla and benzoin. The final issue is a boise' whiff of orangy balsams, sandalwood, soap and tuberose. Lemon, geranium, oakmoss, tonka and dry woods balance cleverly the mellifluence of the other elements. The tuberose is not "criminelle" but carefree and polite. Another great classic.
Boucheron was and still is a lovely floral/oriental.
I think you must a floral lover to truely appreciate this scent. I love that it starts out with a little kick of citrus with the floral accord swooping in right after. It's the oakmossy vanilla dry down, though, that I find so comforting.
It's all in all a very well-structured fragrance!
The previous reviews that highly praise this scent are definitely written by people with excellent taste in fragrances.
Boucheron is a scent which defines sophistication, elegance and class. A rich, unmissable fragrance that doesn't have the popularity that it deserves.
I spent many months searching for this particular fragrance, and only managed to find the EDT concentration in an exclusive fragrance boutique. I was highly impressed by the EDT, and when I read that the EDP is even more impressive, I can't help being dumbfounded by this scent.
Boucheron is everything that a fragrance should be; complex, unique, intense and memorable. This fragrance has been created with the upmost care, blended beautifully, resulting in a rich, warm and feminine scent.
The top notes are not your typical nose-burning citruses and fruits, they have all been blended perfectly creating a scent that is inviting and interesting. Vanilla makes it's presence known right from the very beginning. It's the combination of the vanilla mixed with the lemon, orange and basil and then with the floral accords in the heart of this scent, that fascinates me in so many ways.
In no way is this fragrance dusty and 'old-smelling'. To describe this fragrance as being suited only to mature aged women is very misinformative. Any woman that loves this fragrance should be able to pull this off, it's not restricted to any age group.
Everything from the scent to the bottle is clearly elegant and sophisticated, making this scent perfect for those strict formal events and occasions. It's such a shame that this fragrance isn't more readily available in my country, although I have heard that where it is available, it sells extremely well.
Classic, Boucheron most certainly is. Expensive, but well worth the money spent. The lasting strength is guaranteed to be a highlight as it lasts well into the next day and clings to your clothes for days, managing to scent your wardrobe with its rich aroma.
I highly recommend this fragrance and advise people that have not tried this scent to "get thee to a tester immediately", this perfume is not to be missed.
Using exclusively synthetic aromachemicals to make a perfume has benefits and risks. Tweaking abstract chemical components can allow for an interesting use of qualities to make a statement (eg. Lauder’s Dazzling Silver or CdG’s Synthetic Series.) The trap is in trying to recreate notes otherwise provided by botanicals. Simulation is risky against a known quantity. Boucheron attempts to make a floriental using flower-analogues and amber-analogues. These chemicals come off as both thin (no flesh to grab a hold of) and over-amped (no dimmer and the fluorescence is blinding.) If the goal of using synthetics is to produce a facsimile of known botanicals, missing the mark by a smidge doesn’t read as a near miss, it reads as horrifying. Boucheron smells just like mid-1980s make-up looked: un-nuanced two-dimensional drawing on a three-dimensional figure.
19th March, 2011 (last edited: 05th June, 2011)
They don't make them like these anymore the complex
and multilayerd floral was so in vogue in the 80's
back then Perfume was an artistry they had the time
to examine and experiment every note possible in a
Fragrance ranging from florals spices raisens
and deep animalistic notes now modern perfumery
is a mere shadow of the glorious 80's now choked
with watery fruity scent that has no charactor or
silage hastely produced for the masses leaving
art and more profit to the industry.
But Boucheron is much more then that it's a relic
to the past we need to make people aware that these
gems exists and don't think of them as a granny
perfume or it smells old and outdated look beyond
those boundries and see what have you been missing
before it gets discontinued.
What surprises me about Boucheron is the notes
complex yet well put together like well crafted
jewelery or a finely chissled sculpture Boucheron
is a work of art, It opens crisp with Bergamot
sharpness of Lemon aromantic cassis and closing
the openiing is zesty basil, in a few minutes dries fruity with apricots sweet but it does'nt overcloy tangerine with it's tangy nuances makes it's presence known there's a hint of spicy Gerainums noticible and add some spiciness to the perfume.
Tuberose opens the heart of the fragrance with a buttery sweetness delicate note of jasmine gives an herbal feel and smell Narcissus dominates the middle notes almost drowning the others into obillvion with it's deep and intoxicating scent Lily of the Vally is the elusive note of all i can't dectect, the drydown to the ending sweetish with amber patches of musk and traces of Civet for animalitic properties Benzoin note makes the perfume a bit milky and resianious; the finishing notes of sandalwood adds the dryness and vanilla with it's powdery sweetness
Here's an oriental I can whole-heartedly endorse. It is rich, smooth; yet not heavy and not too sweet. Lemon and light herbs mingle into well-blended florals. The tuberose and iris and handled with restraint (they don't dominate). A light mossy base is a lovely cushion for everything. Very chic and attractive.
This is one of my favorites from as far back as '89!! It has a very special place in my heart as I wore this scent when I was with someone special and the scent always transports me back to those memories. Enough reminiscing! Upon application I immediately pick up the top notes of Lemon & Orange Blossom (and I love Orange Blossom!). It settles briefly into beautiful mid-notes of Iris & Sandalwood before it's sexy drydown into a Tonka Bean note with just a hint of Civet & Benzoin. This is a quite 'regal' scent...smells quite expensive (and it's NOT cheap!) and has to be worn by a person with the right body chemistry or it can be overwhelming. A lot of people are saying this is an 'over-blown 80's scent'...as if it were like Opium or something. I'd have to disagree. This scent didn't come on the scene until the end of the 80's and it's a very complex, multi-note scent with excellent Sillage. TWO thumbs UP from me for Boucheron!!
On this rainy spring morning I decided to wear this as I sip on my coffee. I have a mini in EDP concentration. This is definitely in the style of the big 1980's floriental with its slightly boozy fruity floral sweetness which I'm not really fond of. However, there is also a dark woody/mossy quality that provides a counterpoint that keeps the swwetness from ever becoming cloying. This scent has a kind of Baroque density that makes you feel like you're wearing heavy silk brocade in shades of deep crimson or purple. Sillage is good and it smells expensive.
Since you can get the gist from previous reviews that this is a great fragrance, (and because I'm too self-conscious to follow up after Hillaire's fantastic review), i'll just keep my comments short.
This is one fragrance that made me say WOW. highly recommend, however, if you are thinking of buying on-line at a discount site beware, this did not work for me and i had to throw my bottle in the trash. Make sure anything you buy is fresh, or you won't get the magic of this wonderful creation.
This is the Notre Dame of the grand-style, lush, eighties, Oriental-bomb fragrances.
There may be funkier, more artful, lesser-known contemporaries to compare it to, but Boucheron pulls out all the stops! This fragrance demonstrates all that seamless blending, powerhouse-sillage (and almost too many notes to work) can be!
And it is a beauty.
Even if this isn't your personal favorite, I defy you to put it down as a creation.
To elaborate on my previous allegory to Notre Dame, criticism of this scent is akin to boasting, either (ignorantly), "I like loft life and modernism; Notre dame is OLD and fusty." Or(sophmorically, "I know so many more redolent and mysterious contemporary structures to Notre Dame. Notre Dame is just eye-candy for the masses."
Don't sell this one short. Regard it for the masterpiece it is. Great achievements always stand the test of time.
And I think it is sexy as hell.
NICE!! Unlike other scents of its genre and time, Boucheron is not very musky- just big, warm, and bright. Not too sweet, but sweet enough to make the florals feel at home.
I like how its not too cheery and not too serious.
Boucheron has found an important place on my "if I can find cheaply enough" wish list.
This review is for the EdP formulation.
Sexy, sophisticated, and elegant.
Boucheron opens with a lovely combination of lemon, bergamot, orange flowers, and basil. The basil gives the opening a herbaceous air, which takes the sharp edge off of all of the citrus. Consequently, one gets to experience the full complexity of the bergamot and lemon. The combination of basil and orange flowers is captivating, and I like this expression of orange flowers even more than the petals in Caron Nocturnes.
As the heart of the fragrance makes its presence felt, a perfectly balanced combination of iris and geranium weaves its way from the highest note to the lowest note, drawing everything together. The iris is sweet without being cloying, and the geranium lends the fragrance a sexy smoulder. The tuberose smells like an entire garden of flowers, and blends seamlessly with the geranium, iris, and citrus.
The base of Boucheron begins with a creamy sandalwood, which could easily become too sweet if not for the oak moss and civet that accompany it. The oak moss gives the sandalwood depth and earthiness, and the civet turns the base sexy.
As Boucheron reaches its dry down, vanilla is added to the base. Like in Boucheron Jaipur pour Homme, this is a spicy and complex vanilla, and adds to the sexy base.
It could be said that Boucheron is an old fashioned fragrance, and this is fine with me. In this case old fashioned means sexy, sophisticated, and elegant, and all I’ve got to say is bring on the past.
As a guy who frequently wears Boucheron pour Homme and Boucheron Jaipur pour Homme, I’m not sure I could get away with wearing Boucheron, but I’m oh so happy that it is out there for women to wear.
For any fans of Chanel No. 19 EdP out there, I think Boucheron is one that you should definitely check out.
21st March, 2009 (last edited: 08th July, 2009)
My favorite scent. Reminds me of entering a fabulous party dressed to kill and dripping in precious stones. Since I can't afford any of the above, I buy the perfume instead. Strong, lingering but captivating and unique. Sexy, spicey, enchanting and mysterious. Demands respect, and has a spoonful of attitude. Love it.
When I was a teenager my dad's brother's family would join us every summer for a vacation to Barbados or Margarita Island. Every evening my aunt would wear Boucheron and at the end of the trip she'd give me what was left of the bottle. This fragrance is tropical island nights and teasing marine breezes. It's the warmth of suntanned skin, the flaunting of island flowers and the mystery of the ocean rolling under the stars.
Boucheron seems to surround me in beauty and mystery. Timeless.
I agree with purplebird7. When I wear this I am enveloped in warmth, fruit and spice...love it
Another one of those "Big Eighties" (REALLY BIG) scents! It is powerful, long lasting and complex. From the notes in this, I should really like it, but it is ALL perfume and no heart.
What a knockout of a fragrance. Having never known about this fragrance before, I tried it for the first time 20 years after its inception. Amazingly, I mistook Boucheron for a floral when I first applied it. Rapidly, a spiciness overtook the flowers, and then a citrusy floral over a creamy-sweet base, until it morphed into its true form--a big, woody, powdery, sweet Oriental with sillage to die for. This was made in the 80s, no doubt. Bold, memorable, and utterly pleasant for me.