Muguet (Lily of the Valley) can be sharp and true, as in nature, or softened with other florals to become easier on the nose. Truists for this scent, like those for vetiver, often side with the sharp and true, although there are many softer versions available.
This is pure muguet, starting sharp and metallic, then muddling with other florals, and settling down to its single muguet note.
For those who like this truist approach, Diorissimo is for you. I prefer the softer approach - Caswell Massey's Lily of the Valley/Coty's Muguet de Bois.
Top notes: Calyx, Bergamot
Heart notes: Muguet, Jasmine, Lilac, Boronia, Ylang, Rose, Amaryllis
Base notes: Rosewood, Sandalwood, Civet
The bottle is spectacular, a Baccarat crystal vase, topped by bronze flowers with a gold wash.
I was recently sent a sample of Wild Hunt -CB I Hate Perfume, which I could only see as an anti perfume. That later made me realise that in the world of anti perfumes Diorissimo is the grande dame.
Diorissimo is a brilliant essay in scent matching, a very well realised excecution of the waxy, lemony, lily type scent of Muguet, even with the undertone of sharp green foliage properly correct in there.
But, is it a perfume?
No. Not as I understand it.
Like the smell of stale ditch water in WH, the smell of Muguet is a copy of nature, which simply reproduces what is there and doesn't add anything new.
Its a very well done piece of craft work. But as a artistic creation it fails.
As Coco Chanel said, women (or men for that matter) should not smell like a flower.
I give it a neutral rating for the quality of excecution (of the original formulation.)
Its a pity that such a great talent as Roudnitska should have spent so much time on his hands and knees sniffing Lily of the Valley plants in pursuit of such an endeavour, rather than creating another masterpiece.
09th November, 2013 (last edited: 04th June, 2015)
New diorissimo opens up very synthetic:-) , i am just not hue fan of lily of the valley or muguet, because it smells too green for my taste, cold (I'm a jasmine lover), synthetic note with that aquatic feel of lilac, and lily too, all the flowers with very intensive characteristic smells, that also smell coldish
It dries down into something musky clean modern, not huge fan of this unfortunately, reminds me of calyx type of scents:-)
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I am basing my review on the edt sample of Diorissimo I got from The Perfumed Court. I have never smelled the vintage.
That said, for the whole ten minutes Diorissimo registered on my skin it was a fine, green muguet. The very essence of fresh springtime. Then on the eleventh minute it faded to nothing. Literally nothing left on my skin. How sad!
I will at some point sample the vintage and maybe the edp and be happier than I am with this sample.
16th July, 2011 (last edited: 19th August, 2011)
i have a couple of bottles of the vintage juice one in spray form and the other in the black and white checked bottle. as a guy i do have difficulty wearing it even though i like edmond roudnitska's style very much.
I have had the version from before the refomulation. The hydroxy was not only rasping but as a basenote it outlasts anything else. The single "note" of that chemical became anoying sometimes. The Eau De Toilette was hefty right from the start, but developed whilst simplifying into an even louder fragrance subjectively. The radiance of the frag has not been evaluated by others, sorry. I never asked anybody about it. Maybe my 100ml "Tester" contained a far more concentrated juice as nominal the EdT is. But this EdT was to much to wear. Compared to Fracas the latter wasn't that much louder. In the end I had to give it away.
The contemporary EdT shows itself less creamy, hence lighter, more wearable. I never gave it a full try either. All in all I would like to conclude that, as more eloquent people mentioned before, why should women smell of flowers? And if at all, why lilly of the valley?
I appreciate this perfume for what it is - a classic Dior . However,I think of piles of lilies on Christian Dior's coffin whenever I try this scent which kind of ruins it, for me.It seems very linear to me , it is just lily of the valley . Quite simple. I don't find the longevity that good .
It is elegant, it is romantic but it is also funereal . Take your pick !
I tested the newest version: I wish I loved this... Lily of the Valley is one of my all-time favorite flowers. It's probably just my body chemistry After the initial lovely LotV blast, a nauseating note develops, like something is rotting. Not a terrible scent and I will continue to test on different occasions. Hoping this gets better....
With my initial testing of this, my first thought was “Whoa, LILY OF THE VALLEY… in spades! It was a remarkably real and natural lily of the valley note, strong, with a simple touch of green… to me this seemed almost like a soliflore lily of the valley. The next seven - eight times I tested left me befuddled and unsatisfied: The opening and heart were primarily green with some bergamot and a little lily of the valley. After the green settles down some, I pick up the amaryllis, I think, and possibly some lilac… but the lily of the valley is highly limited and I get no floral jasmine, although I definitely get an indole or civet note. The sandalwood stays in the background while the civet or indole-of-jasmine(?) quietly moves in and out of the green / floral accord.
What happened to the lily of the valley? It was so dominant and clear the first time… after that, nada!
It still turns out to be a pleasant fragrance but I would very much prefer that killer lily of the valley fragrance I smelled the first time.
19th January, 2010 (last edited: 14th November, 2011)
I wish I loved this... Lily of the Valley is my favorite flower, but this is decidedly NOT my favorite perfume. Maybe it is just my body chemistry, but there is a sharp quality to the scent that develops after a few minutes and won't leave. For me it lacks the warmth and earthy undertone that the flower possesses. Smells like synthetic lily of the valley, which I suppose it is. Not a terrible scent, but not what I was hoping for.