Perfume Reviews

Positive Reviews of Chypre de Coty by Coty

Total Reviews: 14
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom
This is a review of the original parfum:

The opening is a mix of bergamot and a beautiful rich rose, which in the drydown is enhanced by jasmine and a slightly earthy lilac. A somber and somewhat shadowy floral bouquet, with a soft carnation providing a touch of a warm glow.

In the next phase a rich tapestry of notes is woven together: the core is the oakmoss, which is a soft and rounded mossy impression, lacking any shrillness or harshness, as is the patchouli that is interwoven with the oakmoss. Hints of tonka and styrax add a tad of sweetness, whilst labdanum and a dark musky note provided added depth. Underlying is a woodsy undertone that round it all off.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and a splendid thirteen hours of longevity on my skin.

This gorgeous creation for spring evenings is noteworthy for historical reasons: the juxtaposition of bergamot, oakmoss, patchouli and musk, in varying combinations and permutations, has initiated and defined the whole genre of chypre for future generations.

Additionally, this magnificent creation is composed of ingredients of the highest quality, is blended most exquisitely, and delivers an exceptional performance. At times it lacks some vividness and luster, probably lost over the many decades since it was created, but otherwise this is one of the greats of the last century. 4.5/5.
13th August, 2019
Stardate 20170620:
1980's version. Reference Chypre. Enough said.
20th June, 2017 (last edited: 15th September, 2017)
This is a classic Chypre. The review is for the 1980 reformulation. It is a classic Barbershop fragrance. Not my style, but lovely in it's composition.
12th September, 2016
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Genre: Self-Explanatory

I had long hoped to sample Coty's Chypre, not only to experience the smell per se, but to catalog in memory the central accord that launched a fragrance genre whose fertility is rivaled only by the orientals born of Shalimar and the descendants of Fougère Royale.

Having worn Chypre, I can say without implying disappointment that it smells very much as I'd expected of the "ur-chypre." For those who never get a chance to sniff the real thing, Chanel pour Monsieur and Monsieur de Givenchy both come fairly close as they approach drydown. Mentally subtract some citrus from either, and most of the lavender from the Givenchy, and you'd have a reasonably accurate approximation of Coty’s Chypre at its heart.

Bergamot dominates the top notes, but prominent moss follows quickly, and it’s only a few moments more before a labdanum-rich amber and a generous helping of patchouli arrive to fill out the classic accord that bears this scent’s name. If I had to ally it with any of the subgenres it spawned, I’d lean toward the green chypres (Givenchy III, Y), rather than the floral (1000), fruity (Mitsouko, Baghari), or leather (Bandit, Aramis).

Built largely of durable, resinous materials, the chypre accord presented here is relatively linear and stable. The bergamot is fist to exit, followed much later by the moss, so that the last stage of the drydown consists mostly of patchouli and labdanum. Chypre is moderately potent, projects well from the skin, and lasts for several hours.

While I mourn the loss of so seminal a fragrance, Chypre’s prolific offspring leave us with plenty of options for general wear. As I’ve already suggested, Chanel pour Monsieur or Monsieur de Givenchy capture much of the same mood and content. For something slightly brighter and greener, there’s Givenchy III, and for an analog with greater depth, complexity, and a touch of leather, I’d also recommend Derby. (Mitsouko, while often touted as Chypre’s direct descendant, is far more sweet, indulgent, and voluptuous than its relatively austere predecessor.)
11th June, 2014
I have been fortunate in obtaining a sample of the vintage CHYPRE and it is lovely.

A soft floral over an only slightly dry base. It certainly is classy and I do wish Coty would bring it back. Overall, a gentle introduction to what was to become a scent genre.

First Edit: Upon wearing the vintage Chypre for a number of months now, I can say that it is very earthy, like rich fresh potting soil, overlain with a minty carnation. It is not at all feminine and is not really masculine either, just odd and unique. It is the same scent that is the base for Guerlain's Mitsouko, created eight years after Chypre. Not one that is outstanding or that I would wear regularly, more a museum piece than a fragrance that has withstood the test of time.

Second Edit: I find it odd that the strong central carnation note is not mentioned in any reconstructed note tree. This part of the formula I can see influencing Caron's Tabac Blond two years later, just as the minty, earthy note evolved into Guerlain's Mitsouko.
Very interesting scent all chypre lovers should expose themselves to.
02nd October, 2012 (last edited: 28th September, 2016)
I have a 1 oz. bottle (EDP) of this that is most likely from the 1970's, when it was discontinued. I agree 100% with with Miss Denise's review of Coty Chypre: as you wear it, you can get a hint of almost every one of the classic chypres that was ever made and so wearing it is like getting a lesson in the history of the chypre genre as it unfolded down through the years, as I sniffed it at different times during its development, I found myself calling out the names of several of the other chypre perfumes I've had the opportunity to experience. I can see how this can be considered the mother of all chypres. If your looking for something classically pretty and beautiful in this scent, you won't find it. This scent has a more "jolie laide" (spelling?) kind of beauty, which makes it all the more mysterious and compelling to me. Clean, fresh, fruity-floral lovers will run screaming in the opposite direction because this is as far from that as you can get. I'm one of those believers in the theory that when Coty fell on hard times, he sold some of his formulas to Guerlain, What confirmed that for me was when I first opened my 1930's bottle of Emeraude. "Mother of Shalimar!" was my first thought. With Coty Chypre I get aspects of Mitsouko, Parure, Bandit, Miss Dior and on and on! Now I'm dying to get my hands on just a little of the pure parfum.
03rd February, 2012
Original Coty Chypre opens with a blast of citrusy civet, dirty and surprisingly animalic. This is rich potent stuff. I smell oakmoss from the get-go, but Chypre mellows as it develops and draws closer to the skin.

Since it's the ur-chypre, the very foundation of an entire fragrance family, I can only compare it to later fragrances that used it as a touchstone: vintage Cabochard, vintage Lubin Nuit de Longchamp, vintage Mitsouko of course, (especially if one believes the Francois Coty-sold-the-recipe-to-Guerlain, who-added-a-peach-note story.) There are echos of Coty Chypre in vintage Aramis, vintage Bandit, original Raphael Replique, vintage Azuree, Guerlain's (sadly discontinued) Parure. I don't get the bitter green or fruit or or floral that other reviewers have mentioned, (though there must be some jasmine) but rather a rich, mellow smooth heady fragrance.

I also don't agree with whoever said (can't remember where I read this) that Guerlain's addition of a peach note was an improvement on Coty's original chypre. This stands on its own, proudly. It's a take-no-prisoners, say it loud, I'm THE CHYPRE and I'm proud perfume.

Vintage bottles of the same scent can vary tremendously, depending on how they've been stored, variability from batch to batch etc, and Chypre from later vintage 40s/50s? probably smell somewhat different than those bottled in 1917. Perhaps this accounts for the different impressions recorded here by reviewers. The chypre I sampled from dates from the 1920s/30s, based on the glass bottle design & frosted glass stopper and the raised gold bas-relief lettering on the label.

02nd October, 2010
Through the kindness of basenotes I can sample this gem of the past. And it's an entirely different thing. This perfume seems to work on many levels.

For instance it acts very differently if you smell it from a distance or close up. Close up it smells green and bitter, like dark green plans on the ground in winter. I'm assuming this is the oakmoss and it is stunning. Now I know why Bandit is a leather chypre and where the chypre in Bandit comes from. It's this. None of this bright sparkling like champagne nonsense, it's bitter, dark, beautiful, sharp, almost woody at times. I recognize just a little bit of this in Bandit.

From a distance this smells a lot lighter and a more flowery. It's still unlike anything else, you couldn't call it bright. Modern chypre always seem to rely on something to counter the bitterness and sharpness of the base by adding a lot sweeter notes or fruit or a touch of vanilla, basically turning it into another genre.

Chypre seems to rely on the lighter green to lure you in and the closer you get the more bitter the scent becomes.


I think combined with our modern taste of sweet and fruit smells in our shampoo, lotions and potions wearing Chypre is a lot of fun. It will counter the bitterness from a far and just render it out a bit more green and less sharp/harsh. As people get closer they will pick up on the bitterness and it's makes it very mysterious to wear.
20th April, 2010
Divine but generic. Wait, let me clarify; this is the scent that defines an entire genre of scents! Strip away the bells and whistles that impart such magic to well-loved chypres like Mitsouko and No.19, what's left is probably a mere shadow of CHYPRE DE COTY.

Vibrant yet bewitchingly dark green earthy scent, this is, for me at least, love at first sniff. I get it. And it gets me.
02nd April, 2010
I believe there is a "Great Chypre Triumvirate", consisting of Mitsouko, Y (my personal favorite), and Coty Chypre, though most of us are lucky enough to know only one.

And it's usually not this one.

This was the first chypre, and it was so 'ideal', in the classical sense of the word, that no perfumer has ever really improved upon its total perfection since.
It was certainly brilliantly expounded upon, notably twice;
Mitsouko added a peach lactone to Francois Coty's chypric template, which imparted both a creamy luxury and a faintly-metallic zest.
Y added plums and beau coup aldehydes, making the chypre form bright and sassy, lifting the genre into the "modern" (1964) era.

Certainly, all three 'great chypres' are landmarks in perfume history; all three are breathtaking.
But we cannot forget that this marvel Coty Chypre was the first, and arguably – even from the vantage point of now -- as every bit as good as the other two.
That just strikes me as incredible.
And to my nose, it's as timeless a legendary treasure as exists. Still stately, still perfect, still sultry and sensual.
Smelling Chypre and marveling at its perfection really causes me to think about perfume, too… that this is what stopped a genius perfumer in his tracks, having just made this perfect thing! That this stuff is what set the perfume world on fire!

If you love chypres and you get a opportunity to smell some of this, don't miss out!
If you are interested in perfume history, or in understanding perfume-making, or if you are new to perfumes and want to understand what a true chypre is...
make an opportunity to smell this.
08th February, 2010 (last edited: 27th February, 2010)
WOW! I ponder the date 1917, and I believe one of my late grandparents was born that year...
What amazes me about this fragrance is when it comes to my nose, I close my eyes and a flood of perfumes that sprang from Chypres' DNA rush through my mind! Unbelievable, the smell of it's history. Really, one needs to put into perspective that we are experiencing this smell "after the fact/effect". If not for this gorgeous blend, another masterpiece by the name of Mitsouko wouldn't exist, not to mention countless others that followed. In this way, as the supply of Chypre dwindles and eventually dies, it lives on via the lineage of its offspring. I respect this frag. Actually, my emotion is more of reverence.
Will I wear this one regularly? Nah. There are plenty more modern scents suitable for my taste. But, this one is the grandparent to many of them. No doubt in my mind, thumbs up!
14th January, 2010
Not what I expected, to say the least! This, the classic chypre, the chypre that started it all, is rather plain, demure, and unassuming. If you're hunting this down for history's sake do not expect something dark, edgy, and complex, like Mitsouko. While well-made and not flawed, I find myself a little amazed that this is the fragrance that inspired the whole genre and thousands of perfumes along with it.

What does it smell like? Why, a chypre, of course - bergamot in the top notes, green-tinged florals in the heart, and a mellow, mossy base. Very light, fresh, and green. I'd be hard pressed to put my finger on what makes it any different from many fragrances just like it.
23rd September, 2009
Lost, lost forever--the fragrance that started a whole olfactive family, the chypres. Created in 1917 and reportedly discontinued permanently in the 1980s, people can now only wonder how a chypre is supposed to smell. Actually, it is quite different and in many ways better than the new genre. This vintage sample I am wearing is difficult to deciper because, after so many years in the bottle, the notes are stewed together. The overall impression starts out green and spicy, sage coupled with bergamot. Then a big, round, floral heart emerges, with rose and jasmine, followed by a base with a huge dollop of oakmoss (now restricted in perfumery). The whole is well-sweetened with labdanum. Any perfumer who thinks he or she can make a chypre by putting together clashing notes has missed the point and should smell this mellow beauty. There are no sharp edges. The whole is warm, earthy, sweet, musty, smooth, and powerful. To me, it has a distinctly golden aroma, like dried fruit in the sun. Devastatingly beautiful.
20th October, 2007
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I love these classic chypres and I guess they don’t get any more classic than this: This is the scent that created the chypre category. This is CHYPRE. Chypre by Coty was so successful in 1917 that "chypre" became the generic label for the whole category of perfumes, which are compositions are based, usually, according to Concord, on bergamot, patchouli, ciste-labdanum, and oak moss accords. These rich chypre notes are mixed with fruity or floral notes. The basic notes of Coty’s Chypre are those that I’ve met in so many classic scents; just to name a few of the multitude: Mitsouko, Acqua di Parma Profumo, Ma Griffe, Aramis, Polo, and even good old Tabu has a definite chypre tinge to its Orietalism.

Chypre opens with a strong civet and citrus / bergamot that is rich, a bit dirty and a lot captivating. I don’t get much of the fruit that is supposed to be in the top notes—just a stab of fruitiness that lasts a moment or two. With the mid notes the bergamot and civet diminish considerably and the deep scented florals join in a rich sensual accord that is supported by the moss and labdanum and patchouli from the base—purely classical and enticing. Of the florals, I can identify rose, jasmine, and orris. The middle does turn powdery—but not too powdery, and it’s a totally wonderful feminine accord that moves into the soft and discreet unisex dry down. This fragrance has a restrained sillage and an acceptable longevity. A totally impressive creation: Bring it back, Coty.
18th January, 2007