This has been called the great grandmother of orientals, influencing Guerlain to create Shalimar. I don't see it that way. Without any spices or resins (except amber), it is more of a comfort floral mix than a striking out in a new scent direction.
This is a citrus/vanilla powdery scent that is most comforting, and in my day, worn by all our mothers and aunts. It is one of the few early Cotys that is still available after almost 100 years.
Charles of the Ritz copied it in 1935 and called it Jean Nate and it too had a great run.
Top: Orange, Bergamot, Tarragon
Middle: Jasmine, Rose, Roswood, Ylang
Base: Patchouli, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Amber, Opopanax, Benzoin
Lovely But ----
This review is for the vintage Emeraude.
Bought a lovely vintage bottle of this on e-bay with the powder. This is really a very nice scent. It brings back the 1950's which to me is not a bad thing at all. This is a very complex scent and somewhat sophisticated. I don't see those that like the perfumes issued today liking it very much. To them it will be old fashion. To me it is a classic.
Problem is it hurts my nose. Don't know what it is but lots of scents really bother my sinuses and this is one of them. Not sure what the ingredient is that makes that happen to me. I've discovered it has nothing to do with the perfumes' age or cost. Very sad but this lovely fragrance will have to find a new home. That is why I gave it 3 stars and not 4 stars.
Pros: Lovely scent, well blended
Cons: Hurts my nose
Is it really true that women never wear their mothers' fragrances? It's true for me, and this was her most frequently worn, second dressiest scent (Youth Dew was her #1). I will always have fond memories of her getting ready to go out to sewing meeting and spritzing on a bit of this.
I like MoonB's description of it - green chemical with a powdery dry down. It's all to easy to be a snob about perfumes, but what it's really about is how they make you feel. We were of modest means, and this was "dressing up" to my mother and therefore to me, so Emeraude has a special place in my heart.
A less expensive version of Guerlain's SHALIMAR. Old-fashioned and fun, but not to be taken too seriously.