Wow, what an unusual powerhouse of a perfume. I can't decide if I can wear it or not... but I love it. I especially love the little sample-sprayed paper strip tucked in my purse -- smells like rich spicy leather, such a treat when I open my bag. On me, it's a little much. I feel like I'm convincing myself that I can wear it, but honestly it's a little strong, a little manly for me. However, I can see that maybe in 10-20 years (age 50 or 60) I might be ready for it -- not that it's for "old ladies" but it certainly takes a certain kind of confidence to pull this off the way it deserves. In the meantime, I'll keep trying it... it's pretty incredible.
Colormechris got it right in his review of this fragrance from 2011 - take away some floral elements and the gigantic slug of aldehydes, and you have Lauder for Men. Personally, I prefer Azurée. It has the
"Lauder base" that I so admire, it sparkles softly from top to bottom, and it also has a rather bitter, bad-tempered feel to it that suits me to a tee.
Brilliant work, and far ahead of it's time in 1969. A must for any serious fragrance fan.
12th October, 2014 (last edited: 15th February, 2015)
Azurée is a very dry aldehydic floral composition built atop an earthy, bitter leather chypre foundation. The aldehydes in Azurée are of the harsh, burning candle sort, and their extreme dominance no doubt contributes to the sharp, bitter impression that this fragrance makes after its first few minutes on the skin. I believe Michael Edwards classes Azurée as a “dry woods” (i.e. leather) scent in his Fragrances of the World compendium, so perhaps there’s some birch tar analogue or isoquinolone content to that bitterness as well. Once Azurée assembles its hard-edged green chypre core it stays running in place for several hours. It eventually mellows into a mossy leather and clean musk drydown, but nowhere in the progression does it become sweet.
Having worn it, I can see why Azurée never attained the popularity of White Linen, Pleasures, or even Alliage. With its persistent bitter edge and its dryness Azurée is not an easy fragrance to love. In concert with a heavy aldehyde content, Azurée’s austerity places it on a thin line between smelling like your grandmother and smelling like something a man ought to be wearing. No wonder nobody seems to know what to do with it. All that aside, I think Azurée is an interesting scent, and one with a unique character. I recommend anyone, male or female, who eschews sweetness in their fragrances or enjoys classic leather chypres to give Azurée a try.
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The opening of this fragrance is bright and sparkling, like walking along a beach on a hot day. The leather is creamy, buttery and very pleasant. One hour later I take another sniff of the wrist - hang on I know that smell. It's Imperial Leather soap! Unfortunately for me, that's how it remained for the rest of the day. I can't for the life of me see how this is made for women, because it's definitely more suited to men. My husband is not the type of bloke to happily spray a female frag but if I could somehow decant it into an aftershave bottle I think he would use it.
Tania Sanchez gives it 5 stars and huge praise, but she also questions why no one mentions it. Maybe it's because some of us don't rate it so highly.
05th May, 2014 (last edited: 10th May, 2014)
Azuree has a lot in common with the big powerhouse chypres of the 1980s, with the big exception that it does not scream at you. It is more balanced and yes, more sophisticated.
On me it starts as a bitter herbal and evolves with a certain sweetness reminiscent of Aramis and Puig's Quorum to a pleasant dry leather scent.
Not outstanding in any way, but perfectly pleasant. As usual Turin goes way overboard and gives this "chypre floral animalic" five stars, when only three are in order.
I get none of the florals - it just goes from bitter green to a very slightly sweet overlay, to the leather, so for me it is an "herbal leather."
06th February, 2014 (last edited: 26th May, 2015)
Unique but hard to wear
Now and again I like to step out of my comfort zone to sample a scent that's "not me". Leathery fragrances are just that, with a vengeance! I've tested several, but never feel quite comfortable wearing them. I feel the way I would if I strapped on a pair of 4 inch high stiletto heels; play-acting a part that's out of my range.
So, long story short, I can't write a glowing review although I will say that Azuree is unique. Herbal, bitter opening that's hot and dry gives way to a mossy, very leathery finish. Imagine an old leather saddle, left out in the hot and dry desert air, rubbed with bitter herbs and left out a little longer. Sillage is massive and longevity--well, I'm sure it's massive, too, (my bottle is vintage, and the liquid is almost as thick and viscous as oil) but I couldn't leave it on beyond 2 hours. I can't imagine where I would feel comfortable wearing this fragrance; working in the barn? (if I had a barn); riding my horse? (if I had a horse). You get the idea. This is a bold frag for a bold personality. Definitely one for the man or woman who loves to stand out.
Pros: Long lasting, realistic leather notes
Cons: Too strident, bitter, and herbal, making it a tough wear"
What an interesting perfume. I'm honestly rather amazed that this is a women's scent. It's basically a strong, dank herbal chypre along the lines of Aramis (which was also made by Estee Lauder at around the same time), but with a shot of leather underneath, so it's quite a bit darker and, dare I say, more masculine. There are subtle sparkling aldehydes on top, but they really just make the herbs seem fizzy for a little while, so they aren't very feminine (in truth, they smell kind of like root beer or sassafras, which is fun and not as cheesy as I'm making it sound - think of the cola note in Marc Jacob's Bang).
Azurée behaves like a typical herbal powerhouse chypre, brighter on top and getting more herbal and leathery with time until a mossy patchouli galbanum base takes over at the end of the day. Really, I don't want to scare any women away from Azurée - instead, I'd really like to encourage masculine powerhouse fanatics to try it. I think fans of both sides of the dark chypre spectrum will be impressed. That being said, if your tastes run more towards fruity florals or aquatics or candy-sweet modern scents, you'll most likely hate this one...
The most revolting smell in the world, how anyone can wear this is beyond me. Tried to like it in the 80s because it was so cheap, gave me a headache in minutes. Tried a friends bottle a week ago and had to wash it off immediately. My poor little dog got up and move away instantly, and I wear tons of perfume everyday, spray my bed every night and the dog but never has he had to leave my side because of a perfume. What is it about this perfume that causes such a reaction, any ideas anyone!!!
WOW! The BEST chypre (for men or women) that I have ever smelled. Better than Bandit, Feuille Verte (2006), Aramis, Paloma Picaso, Arabian Wood, Antaeus, Cristalle, Zen Original, Mitsouko, and many others. So, why is Azurée so wonderful (besides having a remarkably affordable price)? Because it offers what almost no modern chypres that I have smelled offer—a masterfully STABLE and BALANCED formula that is rich, powerful, sophisticated, pristine, and persistent yet simultaneously unobtrusive, unimposing, warm, and welcoming.
Projection, sillage, and longevity are all great. In fact, on a paper test strip, the top and middle last for DAYS. After that, I can only smell the patchouli and oakmoss, but they last for OVER A WEEK.
I cannot believe that a perfume that is this exemplary in both raw materials and composition is made by a mainstream company. Azurée is easily in league with (and in my opinion, surpasses) offerings from several of the top niche houses. It is a world-class fragrance that for me (at least so far) is the touchstone chypre. Refined, elegant, classy, and classic.
19th October, 2012 (last edited: 03rd November, 2012)
I am sampling the vintage edition. Ok, this is hardcore.
There are basically two components, dry bitter herbal + hardcore leather. Think biker jacket, not lady's purse. It is in the mold of a whole era of hard hitting femme fatale/old broad/take no prisoners perfume. If memory serves this is like Morabito's Or Black. This scent lingers beautifully on the skin, but be warned it is uncompromising.
top: basil, jasmine, and citrus
heart: armoise, sage, spearmint, vetiver, and rose
base: patchouli, moss, and amber
I'm making my way through a set of Estee Lauder minis and it seems each is more fascinating than the one before. I'm now up to Azuree, and I can't believe how much I am enjoying this complex herbal citrus concoction.
Azuree is a wonderful sparkling green aldehyde-laden chypre launched in 1969, and she shares some DNA with several of her bell-bottomed siblings like Alliage, Cabochard, No. 19, Diorella and Miss Dior. There is a familiar bitterness in the opening, although in Azuree, this is also clean and citrusy, very smooth, and rather subdued. An interesting addition in this fragrance, are the herbal notes of sage and basil, as well as the earthy, herbal absinthe (armoise). To me, the base is a rather austere, oak moss, and vetiver. Just lovely.
I have seen many reviews reference the Mediteranean beach, for which this fragrance is named, and in it's complexity, Azuree does evoke a cloudy but warm coastal spot, with a flourishing herb patch of basil, mint and sage, of a sleepy walled-garden with flowering orange trees, and cool moss climbing an old stone wall. Transformative.
I just tried this today at the department store. Except for some very, very minor differences; this is exactly like Lauder for Men. Maybe a touch more floral. Please see my review for Lauder for Men since it would be exactly the same for Azuree, pretty much. In any event, a very excellent nine stars out of ten!
With its green bitterness, sparkling aldehydes and a remarkable citrus note, Azuree recalls immediately of other classics of the same genre such as vintage Cabochard, Bandit and original Aramis. Austere, extremely dry and potent with a slight nostalgic vibe. Androgynous leaning towards the masculine it does great both on a self confident woman or a man.
Due to its angular/edgy nature Azuree may not appeal to everybody but I definitely rank it among the most successful creatons by Mr.Chant. Personally I stick with the "dominatrix" Bandit but, when it comes to leather-chypres, Azuree is still one of the best bang for the buck.
15th October, 2011 (last edited: 13th February, 2012)
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Strange - this is Bel Ami that dries down to Bandit. I don't like Bel Ami and Bandit does Bandit better than Azuree.
The leather note here - and the one shared with Bandit - smells more like leatherette, as in a plastic or vinyl simulacrum of leather. This note is better supported in Bandits green, bitter and edgy structure. Here it smells more chemical than I'd like.
Its OK, reasonably priced, smells like it could be made by a niche house, and is better than just about any aquatic you care to mention. But then, smelling of nothing at all is infinitely is better than smelling of them.
I'm pleased I've tried it, but don't feel the need to buy it.
29th August, 2011 (last edited: 05th September, 2011)
I bought this today and am totally thrilled with it. Had just bought another bottle of scent (Vetiver at Le Labo),and was definitely not minded to buy another, but then wandered in to Selfridges for a little mooch around. I took one siff of Azuree and I was smitten.
I can see that this perfume may not be to everyone's taste, it is a rather strong aldehydic chypre, but for me it has a glamorous and rich quality that I love. In many ways it's how I remember my mother's perfumes smelling - it has something of the golden era of perfumes about it. I can remember my mum wearing a fir coat, pearls and bright red lipstick, and although my version of grow-up womanhood is very different to hers, I shall wear it when I am in that mood and in that spirit. Azuree is quite unisex and would smell equally good on a man, I will probably keep mine for the autumn.
The bottle is good to look at as has been said, and I too thank Estee Lauder for keeping this on their books. For £35 for 60ml you can't go wrong.
Is this scent really supposed to smell like the Italian coast where Estee Lauder vacationed? I can't believe Estee stayed anywhere that stank this badly! Now, to be honest I have never smelled the original formulation. Maybe it was once a sunny little chypre. And God knows I do love my chypres! I can't get near this one without feeling anything but nausea and revulsion. I have read Tom Ford did the current reformulation and all I can say is - SHAME ON YOU, Tom!
01st May, 2011 (last edited: 02nd June, 2011)
Chypres in general and leather chypres more specifically seem to be enormously popular perfume genres among perfume fans. I think their complexities and balances of starkness and richness make them make them ripe for the continuing consideration (read: obsession) of perfume fans (I include myself here). Azurée is a perfect fit for this group. I’ve smelled the current Cabochard, and while it doesn’t appeal to me, I can see the strong family resemblance to Azurée. And I really came to Azurée via Aramis, a sororal (fraternal, you choose) twin to Azurée. (Aramis, unlike the current Cabochard is a leather chypre that I love.) The fact that Estée Lauder continues some of these older fragrances apparently in their original, largely unedited form also means that this is our link back to the good old, bad old swaggering fragrances of the mid 20th century. (Thank you, EL.)
Azurée really matches the description of those iconic fragrances---filling a room, conjuring a presence, having dimension and character. It has all the bitterness of a hard, green chypre, all the dryness of the stark leathers, all the complexity of an era of perfume that had little legal restriction on use of ingredients. Which makes it ridiculously funny to see Azurée described in EL press as “light” and a “woody citrus” as if we were talking about the latest meager masculine with a celebrity name slapped on it. Personally, I would want to own up to this fragrance. It is brilliant, gorgeous and needs no apology or subterfuge. Even the mythology of its origin: Mediterranean colors (well, yes, I guess---Mediterranean covers a lot), citrus (yes, but it’s a blasting dose of bergamot), and sunny (huh?) seem to want to hide this beauty. It is stark to the point of harsh, scorchingly dry, and inedible in the way strong leathers are. It is perfect.
It is remarkably similar to Aramis by Aramis (Bernard Chant, same era, same company---I’ll try to juxtapose them when I write about Aramis.) The two fit spectacularly well in the EL feminine-masculine tradition of Aliage-Devin, Cinnabar-JHL, Aromatic Elixir-Aramis 900.
Two other small points. I don’t really care much about perfume packaging and bottles, but this is my favorite bottle in production. Also, I’m happy to point out that this perfume, in its potent concentration (“pure fragrance spray”) is shockingly inexpensive, and possibly the best-spent money in perfumery.
29th November, 2010 (last edited: 20th December, 2010)
Isn't it funny that three of my favorite fragrances--O de Lancome, Chamade and Azuree--are roughly the same age as I am? Interesting coincidence!
I wore Azuree today and I was feeling a little under the weather, but the leathery chypre really was a great pick me up. I am extremely pale-skinned, so fragrance doesn't last long on me...but Azuree really sticks and once those bossy topnotes die down, the heart and the drydown are just a great spicy floral, a little aldehydic--more interesting than most of the Estee Lauder oeuvre, and the diametrical opposite of all those fruitchouli celeb juices flooding the market these days. I got a compliment on it right around the time that my first application of fragrance is usually a memory; Azuree definitely agrees with me.
Azurée is a complicated and difficult perfume with very strong staying power. It is the one perfume my family begged me not to spray again while living under the same roof with them... - my husband talked of "cat piss" and worse things I spare you the details of...
Well, I myself don't think it's that bad at all... - on the contrary, I find it fascinating. The mix of leather and citrus, the depth and the richness of the composition are definetely a plus - but the bitter, harsh and dark aspects of Azurée and the "civet-element" are serious drawbacks to this scent. A little of this potent potion will last you a very long way, so use sparingly and be prepared for comments of the worst kind. Although I'm normally immune to criticism aimed at "my" perfumes, I must admit that the reactions Azurée triggered were so devastating that I decided not to put up with them. There are many perfumes around which suit me better.
I have a skin which changes most perfumes from what they normally smell like. Azuree absolutely suits my skin and whenever I wear it (only on nights out) everyone, really everyone, remarks on what an unusual beautiful perfume I am wearing. Men, especially, love it and think it one of the sexiest perfumes they have ever smelled. Yes, it is difficult to find, so mine is used only on high days and holidays!!! Why Estee Lauder stopped selling it world wide I have no idea. My last purchase was made by a friend in Selfridges. Does anyone know anywhere in Spain or online I can buy this?
I first smelled this on a blonde customer as I passed by the cosmetics counter in Bonwit Teller in Boston..it smelled so distinctive-and lovely that I asked her what it was, and after testing it, I bought a bottle that day. In boarding school I had a bottle, and other girls would ask me what I was wearing...the secret of Azuree is to use it sparingly, but one's own chemistry is what will determine if it is the right one for you, so test before you buy. I LOVE this scent, have for years, get many compliments, and think it's a good winter scent. I'm buying a Christmas party dress next week, and think I'll pick up another bottle of this.
Two thumbs way up for this "sleeper"..and Estee Lauder, PLEASE DO NOT discontinue
I think I owe Mr. Chant an apology, for publicly deriding the strange, awkward (MO) Aromatics Elixir. Because, his repertoire of classics suit me better than any other one perfumer's creations:
Cabochard, I loved you best before, but I love you still,
Aramis, you are quite perfect...
But Azuree, you win. Maybe if I had to go to a desert island with just one scent, I would take you...
Luca Turin, in his Guide frets about how Azuree is never discussed among the great leather chypres. And I wonder how this masterpiece slid under the proverbial radar for so long, too.
I think perhaps its house of origin Lauder has something to do with it, as the archetypal Lauder-lover is more of a belle than a sphinx. And associations kept potential admirers at bay..perhaps...
Azuree has a fabulous hot citrus flavor to it, and the leather note seems to almost steam up through the brew. Maybe I am becoming a tad anosmic, but I use quite a bit: I like to hose myself down with this one because the sillage is impressive and the drydown of a lot of it gives me confident and powerful aura. I do wait a good thirty minutes, though, before venturing out!
I can also smell the inspirations for Knowing in this creation. It has the same twist of bright coriander over musk (and I would swear I catch some muget, though it's not listed). And the same amount of depth and headiness.
Of course, a man could wear this fearlessly. Of course it smells like a man's fragrance. Chant mastered the androgynous powerhouse, but I remember a time when this kind of scent evinced of its women-wearers, a sort-of sophistication and worldliness that transcended frilly stereotypes; that's what these strong, leathery women's scents were all about -- Balls, if you'll pardon my French. And I absolutely, freaking love that. When I put on an ironed button-down shirt and a smart pair of slacks, the finishing touch is *always* a Chant. And then I feel ready, impervious to all, for life's onslaught.
Azuree is absolutely fabulous.
02nd November, 2009 (last edited: 27th February, 2010)
I love leather and chypres, so Azuree sounded right up my alley. It's hard to find, though - even online retailers seemed to always be waiting for stock. I finally found some in Selfridges. That night I sprayed it on before going out, then proceeded to get rather drunk with friends. ;-) So I didn't wear Azuree again for a while, as it was associated in my head with 'the bed-spins'!
I tried it again recently, and I'm over the bad association (thank goodness). To me, Azuree is Bandit with a fake tan. I like it, and so does my skin, but it's a louder and less classy Bandit. I'd wear Azuree on a hedonistic holiday, or to a drag club, or to a big dressed-up but fun party. But never to the office!
I have just found this Fragrance after 20 years of searching, as i recall it was taken off the market in the 1980's and I was devastated as it was the one fragrance that everyone I came into contact with commented on, and said how nice I smelt, it obviously suited my skin, I have never found a purfume like it since, and have now managed to get some, and I am liking it even more!!!!. I cannot believe that it is not more popular, it has a very distinctive smell, and very addictive. It will be interesting to find the reaction I get wearing it now I am in my 50's !
I love it, love it, love it.
I've just met Yatagan's mother! I thought, the first time I found myself enveloped in the agressive top notes of Azuree. A quick moment of carroty, anisic notes gives way to strong, almost urinous leather, rounded out by Coca-Cola aldehydes and something earthy (like the skin of an unwashed potato). Although it begins agressively, Azuree dries down to a soft and comfortable, but still bitter, leather-chypre accord. Apply spareingly to best appriciate it's complex, dark character. Try not to be put off by first impressions. This is a fragrance that grows on you with continued use. One of those old-school "women's" fragrances that, these days, may work better on a man.
When Estee Lauder used to give this away as part of their "gifts with purchase" back when the fragrance was launched, I hated it. What did I know? I was 9. The perfume made no sense to me. Azuree was garish, made my throat swell, and smelled like Pine Sol. This is the El Greco of the Estee Lauder range--way ahead of its time, and for sillage and staying power, is nearly without equal. The olfactory half-life of this stuff is somewhere in the plutonium range. The fragrance begins sharp, green, medicinal and pungent and evolves to an odd, oxymoronic cold, clean leather. When I received my miniature a few days ago, it was loathing at first whiff. But Azuree, like most brilliant compositions, brainwashes you until you find yourself loving what you hate. This is a complex, demanding scent. Wear this to the gym, and you will never feel the claustrophobic crush of company in your vicinity. This one is a room-clearer, and I mean that in the best way. If this were simply an impolite fragrance masquerading as something wearable, I'd be appalled. But Azuree wants to be offensive, does so unapologetically, and for this reason is brilliant and addictive.
Azuree starts out with a sparkling bang that's pretty distinct and interesting, but by the middle it starts to smell like a combination of the new reformulation Rochas Femme and vintage Jolie Madame. For me it loses steam by the late drydown. For this type of scent I'd rather stick with Jolie Madame or Cabochard.
UPDATE: I don't know what formulation of Azuree or whether it was Azuree at all in that little 4 ml mini I based my original review on. All I know is that it was a different perfume than the one I'm wearing today, spritzed from what is left of a vintage 2 oz (60 ml) bottle of pure fragrance spray I purchased on Ebay a few days ago. When I was first prompted to try Azuree a few years ago, based on Tanya Sanchez's review of it in The Guide, I wondered what the heck she was talking about. What I was smelling in the mini was a sparkling light chypre with little staying power at best. But, what I'm smelling in this vintage bottle is a world class leather chypre that ranks right up there with the best of them (Cabochard, Bandit, Miss Dior, etc.) I'm glad that I sought a vintage partial bottle and gave this another try. If I hadn't, I would have been truly missing out on a gem. This has all of the classic chypre notes, and then some! I can't vouch for the current formulation, but I can say that if you come across a vintage bottle, do yourself a favor and snap it up right away. This would work for men as well as the floral notes do not jump out at you, but rather serve to temper the rough edges that Bandit seems to have while not making Azuree any less ballsy or fierce. While I like Bandit, I definitely have to be in the mood for it. Azuree is much smoother.
04th January, 2009 (last edited: 02nd March, 2013)
I always loved it, but have been told that by others that it smells to them like cat urine. Each to their own.
Is the disparity listed by Basenotes and The Perfumed Court due to there being two distinct versions currently extant since Tom Ford's revision? I just received this today as a sample -- not sure which one I received but might be the original. I definitely don't pick up on anything as potentially edible as orange blossom or coconut. Rather, this strikes me as the kind of Gloria Swanson-style scentbomb that could inspire health-conscious cities to ban perfume. I am a woman of "a certain age" who tends to appreciate dark and demanding scents (though, I admit, I am mixed about chypres and vetiver). But this one is actually turning my stomach! It's fascinating to me how scents with any intensity listed here draw such divergent reactions. The "leather-ette" middle is now becoming slightly more tolerable, but for the sake of my poor, disoriented cats I'm going to hop in a shower!
I'm gonna have to be honest here. I passionately hated Estee Lauder's Azurée. And I hated it for several reasons. One is that it smells terrible. Azurée is a cloying fragrance with an extremely obvious synthetic overlay to the whole concoction. There is no discernible flower note or other kind of pleasant note for that matter. Sad to say that despite the involvement of Tom Ford et al, Azurée's re-issued perfume is a textbook artificial-smelling Estee Lauder fragrance. Youth Dew anyone? Dazzling Silver perhaps?
Which brings me to my next point. I hate that Azuréeis what the Estee Lauder company thinks the American woman wants to smell like. I envision EL's marketing and focus groups repeatedly tinkering with the juice and dumbing it down so that (in their minds) it will smell generically "sophisticated" to a housewife in say, Kansas, and will thus prompt her to buy it. I've never been to Kansas but hope that the good people there and the rest of America don't fall for this awfulness that is being sold as "perfume".
Here are the notes, per The Perfumed Court: Top note of orange blossom, Middle notes of Tahitian flower, gardenia and coconut; and Base notes of vetiver, myrrh and sandalwood.