Perfume Reviews

Reviews of L'Heure Bleue by Guerlain

Total Reviews: 153
One of the classic Guerlain fragrances. A powdery old world charm of a fragrances with bergamot showing up at the beginning with violets. I think the two notes seem to somewhat clash to my nose but maybe that is just me! It soon gives way to a more blendid concoction with heliotrope & other florals hanging in there. I do pick up some resins but they do not shout.

All in all, if you are looking for an intimate soft fragrance with nice longevity then give this a try. It does put me in a calm state of mind whenever I wore it. Unfortunately my taste in fragrances change frequently & I parted with my vintage EDT bottle. Would work well in autumn weather & a mature classy dame!
18th November, 2018
L'Heure Bleue (1912) is a timeless Guerlain masterpiece that has been enjoyed by generations of women, and indeed some men, for well over a century. The scent followed in the footsteps of powdery floral fougère-like compositions worn by the chaste upper classes of the late 19th and early 20th century, and was composed by Jacques Guerlain, the man who literally shaped the house note itself by building on work from his uncle Aimé Guerlain with this, then Mitsouko (1919), Guerlinade (1924), and Shalimar (1925). Outside of helping to define the reputation of house Guerlain, L'Huere Bleue (aka "The Bluish Hour" in French) was meant to be worn in early evenings at dusk, to compliment the bluish hue the sky takes, and to conjure images of gentle romance; think about that next time you smell a modern perfume just made to be "sexy" or "fresh", as the entirety of this perfume was composed to capture a very specific time of day and activity occuring at the time, almost as a task-specific evening tryste fragrance. The smell of Guerlain L'Huere Bleue was perceived as quite feminine at the time, and it's heavy heliotrope also helped further define the "baby powder" smell in coming years as perfumes of this type before it had, but time has rendered L'Heure Bleue more genderfluid than that, especially in the wake of powdery 60's fougères like Brut (1962) and Wild Country (1967) or masuline indolic flower bombs like Royal Copenhagen (1970) all challenging the femininity of the antique L'Huere Bleue by sharing similar values. That's not to say this stuff isn't still effeminate, because so are those older masculines in comparison to what exists for men in the 21st century, just that like them, the appeal of L'Heure Bleue has expanded beyond it's intended audience. Still, this scent most definitely conjures images of huge flower-adorned hats and parasols to me, and outside of the heart, there isn't a muscular bone in L'Heure Bleue's body, so do NOT go into smelling it thinking it's another Jicky (1889), as even in vintage form this scent is not really all that animalic, but rather pillowy rich thanks to older synthetic musks like musk ketone and musk ambrette.

The smell of L'Huere Bleue is familiar yet strange all at the same time in the opening salvo, as it's one lavender note short of a stereotypical fougère accord with it's bergamot, clary sage, aniseed, tarragon and lemon, which join a fruity-sweet neroli that serves as the feminization factor here. There's something of a connection between the complex floral middle in L'Heure Bleue and the masculine dandy-like chypre Habit Rouge (1965), composed by Jean-Paul Guerlain, which is where CIS men of any orientation familiar with classic Guerlain will find the most comfort and familiarity when smelling L'Heure Bleue. Rose, iris, heliotrope, ylang-ylang, jasmine and carnation all blur into a soft "foundation" smell which was doubtless pirated ad infinitum by cosmetic companies after L'Heure Bleue hit shelves. The base is where the "fougère factor" rings true again, and the biggest point of separation between this and later Habit Rouge, which definitely goes for a sharper "cypress-like" dry down. Sandalwood, tonka, musk, vetiver, oakmoss and cedar all draw similarities to stuff like Zizanie (1932) or Canoe (1936) which showed up later and were pitched to men, but benzoin and vanilla "tweak the knobs" in such a way with L'Huere Bleue that this bullet would be dodged sufficiently even in the wake of emerging masculine tropes that heavily abused the emerging "barbershop" accord found in part under L'Huere Bleue's amazingly complex floral bouquet. The powdery heliotrope diffuses sillage enough that it isn't a bomb, but sustain vibrato is very long-lived with L'Huere Bleue, providing a very structured and abstinent pleasantness lasting over 12+ hours and made perfect for a meeting with a new client and a date night all in the same day. Office use is A-ok with L'Huere Bleue, and it does retain some of it's antiquated romanticism if you're going to a classy old-world joint like Maxim's of Paris or a late walk through New York City's Coney Island boardwalk.

L'Huere Bleue may be prim and proper as expected for a perfume from 1912, but it's Belle Époque origins guaranteed it free from the rigidity of social discipline that Victorian perfumes had to observe, meaning it's slightly-indolic tones and softly sweet idealized romanticism weren't quite so scandalous anymore, and they were just the beginning of a theme for Jacques Guerlain, who would steadily take his feminine creations down an increasingly assertive path until his hand-off to his grandson Jean-Paul. Wearing L'Heure Bleue is obviously like wearing a piece of history, but all that aside, wearing L'Heure Bleue is like wearing shades of everything a powdery floral perfume is known to be (even in the 21st century), but slightly blurred by the roundness of a fougère-like base and an overly-blended heart note haze, itself something of a trademark for the late perfumer, who was also known to mix entire previous perfumes into the base of new ones and continue building. L'Huere Bleue just "glows", much like the sky in the time of day after which it's named, ultimately making it an unusually relaxed, comfortable perfume to wear. Open-minded or particularly flamboyant/dandyish guys should definitely try this out, but otherwise this is still likely to appeal mostly to folks who identify as female or feminine-leaning, which is fine. Fans of vintage perfumes won't really care where this sits along the spectrum and ostensibly modern folks might see poor L'Huere Bleue as too "Grandma's Boudoir" for their liking anyway, so being able to enjoy this goes hand-in-hand with enjoying the art, music, fashion, frivolity, and indeed the flavor of the Belle Époque itself. For everyone else, this is likely too dainty and irrelevant of an old girl to hang in the company of modern "fruitchouli" and "cashmeran amberwood" fragrances, even if it's DNA still lingers in all of them. It's not my everyday cup of tea, but thumbs up for this beautiful piece of history.
10th October, 2018
Midsummer is lit long where I live. When I was a child I was sent to bed, protesting, at 8pm, in broad daylight. The light would last for another three to four hours. I could hear the older children playing in the fields, and a wistful feeling would keep me awake. The curtains were pulled, but the gathering at the top of each created a gap, in which glowed a triangle of the purest blue. I wanted to swim in that colour until I dissolved.

My first sniff of L'Heure Bleue was a sample of the EDP, which I found harsh and medicinal. It was oily Prussian Blue to my sapphire triangle. This summer I bought a bottle of the EDT, and now I get it. The powder casts a hazy expanse, in which children play and flowers curl up, all the way to the horizon. I can smell the sweet pastries as the last Blackbird sings.
05th August, 2018
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Heavy powdery drydown similar to Creed Royal English Leather and Bal a Versailles. It overpowers and wears me rather than the other way round.
07th July, 2018
I've been wearing samples of L'Heure Bleue edp from various years, and really enjoying it. I get a strong association with nag champa incense sticks, which is the note giving the fragrance so much heft, power, and longevity. It's a note that starts out almost too strong in a way that makes it wonderfully transporting and memorable, and as it develops, it becomes softer, friendlier, and more irresistible.
17th March, 2018
How gorgeous! The bergamot in the opening made me think of Shalimar, but then it went similar to another Guerlain that I love, French Kiss. I get a lot of amber and then almond, which are not listed here. Tonka and vanilla are well present as well.
28th December, 2017
I read so many rave reviews for this one so when I tried it, I was shocked that it smelled like cheap bathroom air freshener or maybe even urinal cake to me. It's very old fashioned and quaint, but I do not want to smell like it.
19th October, 2017
Everything has already been said about this amazing classic, but I'll chime in to say that this is the only stereotypically 'feminine' perfume that I love. I am an outlier when it comes to scent and gravitate more toward the musky, resinous, and animalic end of things rather than the floral or the sweet. And I definitely do not do 'clean and fresh.' L'Heure Blue, however, makes me nearly swoon with pleasure. I think it is the medicinal and balsamic aspects of this Guerlain that bring me such joy. I have never tried any of the modern versions of this scent, but the vintage extrait contains a depth and almost leathery texture that I adore. This combined with the indolic nature of some of the florals gives me that sort of 'vintage skank' that I crave and continue to endlessly seek out. Between the medicinal top and the musky base notes, this is one 'womanly' scent that I will always have in my collection.
11th September, 2017 (last edited: 22nd September, 2017)
A beautiful powdery floral, I'm not sure about the sensuousness, I find it comforting and safe. That probably says more about me than the perfume.
It's beautiful and complex, I'm often unable to discern the separate components entirely. I work with people and appreciate it's 'closeness' rather than rampant sillage.
24th August, 2017
What a lovely scent. As a fan/owner of Jicky and other Guerlain offerings {masculine/feminine/shared}, L'heure Bleue EdP was on my wishlist. The powdery florals remind me of Caswell-Massey Jockey Club, reputed to be JFK's favored scent and one of my favorite fragrances.
L'heure didn't reveal its vanilla and iris on me until much later, but close to the skin it is quite delicious.
This was a blind buy and I would like to thank all of you BN reviewers of L'heure Bleue, as your input and opinions helped make this purchase an easy decision.
P.S. this is my first review on BN!
18th July, 2017 (last edited: 19th July, 2017)
Once upon a time I was in love with anything Guerlain released, that I could test or buy. However, my tastes have changed over the decades.

L'Heure Bleu is better, than I remember! I was hesitant to purchase this again. I am glad I did. True romance in a bottle! A perfect, deep floral. Right up my alley. It is classy, well-orchestrated, and charming. If this has been reformulated, I don't care. I enjoy it the way it is now.
30th May, 2017
Zowiee Show all reviews
United States
A sublime work of art, a timeless concerto, a treasure worth finding. Elegance through simplicity in the notes. Thank you J. G.
06th May, 2017
This is an incredible female fragrance. It wouldn't have worked with Bergamot as a top note, but the Neroli works perfectly. The soft floral heard notes don't get too powdery. I am beginning to realize that I LOVE "carnation" accord in a women's perfume.
10th September, 2016 (last edited: 12th September, 2016)
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L’Heure Bleue is for me a perfume of such grand and structured richness, it astonishes me every time. An abundance of warm, silky floral notes, spices, powder, balsams and a glorious sandalwood that sings right from the start and just keeps going. All perfectly massaged into a harmonious creation like some incredible pastry that requires intense labour and skill to get just right and create that hallelujah moment on the tongue.
It has numerous markers that date it (for it is now over a hundred years old): floral notes of clove-tinged carnation and sweet violet, with an anise and heliotrope back-up, that were much more common in perfumes of yesteryear; an unabashed powderiness coupled with an unctuousness that is rare in modern creations in which the legacy of ‘fresh’ and ‘clean’ is still too prominent; a daring amount of spice and resins. And yet from such serious elements arises something that shimmers like a mirage, gleaming, enticing, yet always just receding a step when you think you have understood it.
I tried L’Heure Bleue at perfume counters, always walking away thinking, ‘This is a bit too much for me.’ This happened about half a dozen times. And then suddenly, one day, its radiance was revealed and then there was no going back. It’s a fugue of a perfume, complex but with each note in the right place.
Much is made of its sensuousness, but it resists the temptation to swooning, full-blown excess (such as, say, the roseate oblivion of Nahema) and also appeals to an intellectual appreciation in its fine calibration. And then there’s that amazing sandalwood – still on song, no matter how long your day.
(Review is for EDP, current formulation.)
05th August, 2016
I wanted to try some of the classic Guerlain parfums, including Mitsouko, Apres L'ondee, and L'Heure Bleue. L'Heure Bleue is the first one I tried, and I am very happy with it. I can see why this is considered a classic. It smells heavenly!! (I have fallen totally in love with it. : )

L'Heure Bleue is soft, fresh, clean, feminine, and yes, powdery, too. It has a fresh, fairly intense floral base. (It is often described as an "oriental" or "semi-oriental." I would not describe it as either.) Initially, it has a moderate++ sillage, and after two or three hours, it wears fairly close to the skin, at least on me. It smells like the kind of parfum one wears to "dress up" for a special evening, so its name is very apropos. I like it enough to know that it will be a staple on my parfum tray for all the years to come. It does not smell like any other parfum I own.

Many young ladies these days do not like anything that smells powdery. They prefer parfum that smells candy sweet. L'Heure is not that kind of parfum. If you do NOT like a fairly strong powdery note to your parfum, then this is not the scent for you. However, if you do like or do not mind a powdery, make-up-E scent, then I think you will like L'Heure Bleue.

L'Heure Bleue makes me think of ladies in long gloves, long evening gowns, with sparkling jewels. Very elegant and feminine to be sure. It is alluring but not overtly "sexual," if that makes sense. If you want to at least try some of the classics, then this one is definitely one to try. You might even fall in love with it as I did. : )

Fragrance: 10/10
Projection: 9/10
Sillage: 9/10
Longevity: 7/10
17th April, 2016
The Blue Room BY Suzanne Valadon 1919
15th April, 2016 (last edited: 24th February, 2017)
Oviatt Show all reviews
United States
Time can tear down a building or destroy a woman's face
Hours are like diamonds, don't let them waste


The twilight pastry with its marzipan, marshmallow accord, the powdery caress of a beautiful woman, a sun-warmed garden cooling in the evening..... This wonderful gourmand fragrance has it all and more. L'Heure bleue has a shimmering beauty to it, sensual and feminine and very, very French. Like the blue hour of its name, there is a transitory, evanescent quality about this—this moment, too, shall pass—and the melancholy note that is so famous in this scent is one of regret; regret that the dreams of the night time will vanish by dawn. Time waits for no one but the very fact that this fragrance is over 100 years old is amazing.


28th December, 2015
A truly affecting "sensual" experience for me: i wear this one only when the mood strikes. I ignore that is supposedly a ladies' fragrance. I never believed in defining sexes in perfumes. The perfect perfume is merely individual and many have agreed that defining a fragrance by sex is just all linked to marketing issues and nothing else really! That being said, i never felt uncomfortable wearing this! At the contrary on me, it smells soft, powdery and slightly melancholic if anything! It's funny, how much potent of a vanilla it is, and yet i never think of it when i sniff it or wear it!! It's a little classic masterpiece that i'd recommend to all artists and people with character and moods. And, you must love heavily powdery notes, because this, along with Apres l'Ondes another extremely powdery one, is a cyphre as Guerlain can get, and, i believe that's saying something, right there.
30th September, 2015 (last edited: 02nd October, 2015)
I'm lucky, I guess, because this smelled drop-dead gorgeous to me the first second I smelled it, and then got even more amazing as time went on. I didn't have to learn to appreciate it, or overcome anything to fall deeply in love with it. It doesn't smell old or dated or dusty or melancholic to me. Just the opposite, in fact. No matter my mood before applying, as soon as I put it on I feel happy, serene and hopeful. Very Zen. I find the EDP overwhelmingly beautiful with the golden and round top notes merging later into my very favorite example of the Guerlinade base. This is gourmand on me, except for the carnation, and even that could be mistaken for cloves.
My vintage extrait is lovely, too, but darker and deeper. This is the best fragrance I have ever had the good fortune to experience. Even better than my much-adored Shalimar, and that is saying something. I do find this and Mitsouko ( also in my top five favorites)to be the beginning and ending of an era. LHB more innocent, unaware of the horrors to come. And Mitsouko a survivor of the War, but one who has seen it all, no innocence left.
L'Heure Bleue envelops me in the happy innocence of little pleasures, eating a pastry, smelling the heady scent of flowers in the twilight....eyes wide open and without fear. That is how I try to live my life, and that is how I love to smell. Once again, thank you, Guerlain. You have provided the olfactory soundtrack to my life.


24th June, 2015
Salutation.
Wearable work of art.In your first year of marriage, you make your transition from simple girl to cute lady,you make up your hear,dress up and walk with style and grace but something is missing for your style complementary until you buy a bottle of L'HEURE BLEUE by GUERLAIN and also another bottles until you make your transition from cute lady to dignified queen. Romantic,Nostalgic,Ladylike,Classy,Sumptuous, Powdery, Luxurious and Very Guerlain.

L'HEURE BLEUE is a true blending of art and fragrance with notes that includes neroli,anise,bergamot in the top notes,carnation,heliotrope and gentle rose in the heart.It is over so smooth finish on sandalwood,sweet vanilla,a little vetiver and the caressing tonalities of benzoin and musk,affirm its womanly character beyond a shadow of a doubt.let it do the talking for you:It will be QUEENLY.

L'HEURE BLEUE has a significant amount of sentimental qualities to it.Both the EDP and EDT are great.It is perfect for Autumn/Winter Evenings.I really do recommend this one as a perfect gift for that special lady in your life.Most of perfume lovers are familiar with it but if you haven't tried this lovely GUERLAIN,please do so.You will be wonderfully surprised at how special it makes you feel.

Sillage?Ok.

Longevity?Remarkable on my skin just like another GUERLAIN perfumes.

8/10
13th June, 2015
This is just a masterpiece that I can't believe it has been made more than 100 years ago!
It says for women but I'm telling you. you guys out there. if you love "Dior Homme" and it's extremely elegant and classy powdery aura this will knock your socks off! something that happened for me after testing this! this can be unisex for sure!

After spraying this on your skin and just from the first sniff you can tell that this is a classic fragrance. but does it smell dated too? hell no!
The opening just makes me smile and smile.
At the beginning I can smell lots of thing.
It's powdery even at first sniff, it's green, mossy, kind of fresh, slightly sweet, soft floral, soft spicy, musky,...
The powdery feeling of iris is right in front and there is a dark green and mossy feeling beside it and mellow spices, some sweetness and some other floral notes (definitely are in the background) just add more characters to this triumph.

As times passes and in the mid I can smell almost the same smell but now musk gets stronger and I feel some sort of dirty and kind of leathery scent which is quite enjoyable.

In the base most of the notes settle down and even some of them disappear and only think that I can smell is a soft semi sweet and creamy vanilla plus a little bit of powdery iris and some spices in the background.
Loved the opening and mid. but base is OK and definitely not as great as those two parts.
Projection is average and longevity is above average and something between 4-5 hours on my skin.
I bet they watered down new ones a lot because it seems older bottles have great projection and longevity but new ones are just average to above average.
A fantastic formal scent for both genders.
12th May, 2015
OH, L'Heure Bleue! Scattered dreams that reach the sky... How could I describe the "blue miracle"? How could I evoke its beauty? L'Heure bleue was not mine, but I was truly his. He made me kneel through its beauty, embraced my soul, kissed it and gave it back to me stigmatized with his memory. Oh, how I love this perfume!

The perfume seems rather melancholic, but it is such a sweet melacholy! I got lost in its bittersweet depht.

I feel like I do not even know how to describe such perfect blended, refined notes. Iris, heliotrope, carnation and tuberose live in symbiosis, they would die one without the other and all that would remain behind would be a trail of smoke...

Resins and vanilla join and make the fragrance's composition more rounder, also adding more mistery. Towards the end I feel pretty good sandalwood among other notes that I can individualize. The composition is too homogenic, the notes blend gently, telling different stories. Rose feels very vague ... it's more of a shadow, a memory.

I would wear L'Heure Bleue on my wedding day. It's melancholic, but it's for brides who, just for a moment, close their eyes and let it leak a tear for the sake of things left behind by the time that has elapsed.
06th May, 2015
L'Heure Bleue is a total sensory experience for me. Yes, I am a man and yes, I wear LHB. I love it's many layers; a very complicated scent. On me it wears very close to the skin and I can reapply as much as I choose without it announcing it's gorgeous scent to the entire room I am in. Very close to the skin on me and when I change my T shirt I can smell it wafting up to my nose from my chest. LHB is very evocative for me and like other favorites; I wear it for myself. It does not project too much on me and there is minimal sillage so it is a very personal experience for me. The opening is sharp with the neroli and orange blossom and then I get the white florals and heliotrope mixed with carnation which is like a bit of clove. The iris note gives the scent a powdery feel. The drydown is a cherry-vanilla almond marzipan confection that stays around very close to the skin. A lovely example of the Guerlinade. The scent is not for everyone, there is an old-fashioned dustiness to it reminiscent of flowers pressed in the pages of a book. This scent has lived and prospered through the ages as a master's creation. The scent has many facets and one needs to give it time to develop from a rather sharp opening. I wear the EDP version and will continue to when my current bottle runs out. A true work of art and a timeless classic.
19th March, 2015 (last edited: 26th June, 2016)
Finally sampling this I see where countless others stole their basis. We see here the classic body of a Shalimar/ Emeraude type fragrance with an ephemeral top of violet and (superbly done) aniseed, and in retrospect I see ripoffs in spades in other scents I've tried.
There exists no lack of reviews for this product so describing its evolution doesn't seem too useful. However, when I applied just a few drops of the EDT and, moments later, sniffed my arm I had to stop everything I was doing.

It's no point of pride saying I don't yet know the difference of vintages of l'Heure Bleue but I have wanted to try it for years and it did not disappoint. There are only a handful of scents for which I have felt honest reverence, and this is one - a real testament to the art we all enjoy.
17th March, 2015
EdT version, here.

This starts out with a expanse of heliotrope that's flanked by powdery peach-like chords strung up over a balmy vanilla base. It’s politely proportioned for heliotrope—a note that can smother you without batting an eye. Here, it’s attenuated by dabs of saffron and violet with any remaining space filled in by docile resins. Like most Guerlain perfumes, the sum of the parts is more perceptible than the parts themselves, and when approached in this manner, L’Heure Bleue assumes an abstract powdered cleanliness akin to Helmut Lang’s EdP only less modern. In a short time, the scent becomes more of a vague aura than a perceptible presence. And while it’s easy to wear and difficult to dislike, it doesn’t have a whole lot to say—it just sort of sits there waiting for someone to notice it. It certainly is cushiony and inviting just like an overstuffed pillow, but there’s a good chance that, like the pillow, it’ll put you to sleep.
28th December, 2014
A thing of beauty... is a joy forever.

L'Heure Bleue is really a perfume unlike any other. You sometimes have to ask yourself if a perfume is still being made over a century after it was first launched then it really must be quite something, in order to still be able to captivate hearts & minds.

The story is that the master perfumer Jacques Guerlain was one day walking along the banks of the river Seine in Paris during the "blue hour", the very last hour of daylight before evening sets it. In film & photography, this is known as "magic hour", when dusk is approaching twilight, and it is arguably the most beautiful time of day. He was overcome by emotion at that point and felt something so strong that he could only express it in a perfume, and so created L'Heure Bleue, or the blue hour.

This perfume is significant for many reasons... and it's symbolism runs deep. It was created in 1912, the year in which the Titanic sank (at that time the world's biggest ship). It was also released two years before the First World War, which would claim the lives of millions across Europe and elsewhere, and which would leave an entire generation devastated. To some, this perfume represents the last breath of an old world, a world which would later disappear and vanish forever.

The perfume itself follows a very elegant, masterful blend of gentle, sweet, evocative, refined powdery notes (most of which are so well blended that it's hard to pick out). It's very much like an impressionist painting, the painting itself is made up of a host of tiny dots with the paintbrush but which comes together to blend into a masterpiece of art and expression. To me it is a waxy, subdued, sweet, rich, slightly-gourmandish oriental floral perfume. The notes which stand out are iris, heliotrope and carnation, mixed with a deep, almost gourmand oriental vanilla (a typical hallmark of Guerlain). The iris provides the soft, powdery "waxy" note, whilst the strong heliotrope mixed with the vanilla gives a feeling of soft yet ever present sweetness in an almond desert kind of way. The carnation is a dusty floral feel in the background which contributes to this old and otherworldly feel.

For me L'Heure Bleue is a very special kind of perfume. In fact it's less of a perfume and more like an "experience". I have the Eau de Toilette, and I find it very easy to wear. There is nothing shocking about it, it just smells very different to anything you will find today. I really cannot explain the smell more than that, but the last thing I would say is that even if you never own this, at some point you should try it. If you have any serious interest in the appreciation of what perfume is, as a creation, then you should try this. If only to "experience" what it is all about. It doesn't smell modern, for sure, although it's still totally wearable in my opinion. Like some other complex perfumes, you may also need to have a lot of experience with smelling different types of fragrances, in order to really understand this. Try it, and you'll see what I mean. Incredible!
21st December, 2014
One of the most unique scents in the entire panoply of perfumes, this gem from 1912 is a light and refreshing take on the almond pastry note, brought to later fruition in Caron's 1947 version, Farnesiana.

LHB shares heliotrope and vanilla with Farnesiana, although the latter uses a central note of heavenly mimosa. They also share notes of musk, bergamot, jasmine, anise, neroli, carnation and iris. No wonder they closely resemble each other.

Turin rightly gives LHB five stars and dubs it "dessert air," describing it as "neroli, flanked by carnation and woody violets" and notes its "praline effect."

Barbara Herman praises it as being "sweet, spicy and soft with a warm base hinting of leather" and its "confectionary sweetness."

Roja Dove deems it Guerlain's greatest achievement.

Top notes: Bergamot, Clary Sage, Coriander, Lemon, Neroli, Tarragon, Anise
Heart notes: Carnation, Jasmine, Orchid, Ylang, Rose, Iris, Heliotrope
Base notes: Benzoin, Cedar, Musk, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Vetiver

It is a lovely scent for late summer afternoons, to splash on before going out for cocktails or tea. Most effective in the early autumn afternoons as the warm sun begins to dip below the horizon. Just as the romantic Parisian world slipped from view on the eve of WWI, never to be seen again, only inhaled.
08th October, 2014
Genre: Floral Oriental

The olfactory equivalent of a sigh. Powdery, floral, moderately indolic, and unabashedly "perfumey," L'Heure Bleue is an archetypical classic women's fragrance. The white flowers here are spiked with a bittersweet, somewhat sharp, and (yes,) nocturnal flourish that seems to evoke a melancholic reverie in some wearers.

Unfortunately, for all its transporting beauty and emotional power, L'Heure Bleue seems not to have aged well. Whenever I smell it I'm left feeling that it's somehow stuck in its own time, and not all that relevant to modern life. It is a scent that I admire, but do not enjoy.
19th June, 2014
I used to wear this many years ago (back in the 80's). i liked it then. However, something changed in me or it because I can't wear it anymore. I find it too sweet for me now.
24th May, 2014
L'Heure Bleue is a victim of my unrealistically high expectations. I pored over all the reviews I could get my hands on, fell hook, line, and sinker for the poetic descriptions, and stupidly bought into a vision of the scent as romantic, nostalgic, tragic, and ultra-feminine. I spent a great deal of money and time in tracking down the current EDP version. I went over the review in the Guide, again and again. Without ever having tried the scent, I somehow "knew" that this was the one, and that my soul would cry out in relieved recognition when I put it on.

What a load of buzzcocks. This is quite bad. I have tried it again and again, each time hoping for a different result, for the storm clouds to part and reveal the beauty and mystery of which everyone speaks. It never happens. The scent goes on with a thick, cloying violet-blue smell of marzipan, violets, and cloves, which many have described to be pastry-like - but I disagree with that definition. With pastry, even if you don't have a sweet tooth, you can at least appreciate the myriad of textures and sensations in your mouth/nose, for example, the crisp yielding of the pastry shell as you bite into it, the cool and creamy custard inside, the chewy nubbiness of rum-soaked raisins, the pleasing spikiness of aromatics used, like anise or cinnamon or clove, and the dustiness of the powdered sugar on top.

So, let me be clear - the opening two hours of L'Heure Bleue has none of the contrasting textures of a pastry. Rather, the sensation is like a big wall of blue-purple-violet fudge coming at you - all dense, thick, and relentless smooth and play-dough like in texture. Like fudge, after the first gooey bite you start to wish for something to break up the monotonous drone of sweetness and thickness: it never comes. The scent is overwhelmingly of almond paste, violets, and cloves/carnations - all notes that are very loud and overbearing in isolation in perfumes, and here you have all three of those bully boys in one go.

I will confess that it gets less obnoxious as it goes on. The sweetness banks down quite a bit. But all I am left with is a blue velvet sweetness on my skin, still devoid of any variation, development, or contrasting tones. It lasts an awful long time, and for me, quite unbearably so. L'Heure Bleue is a painting of a Madonna and Child, done thickly in bright, sticky, unctuous oil paints, with daubs of blue and violet and purple slathered on, one on top of another, and seems as childishly simple like all the paintings before Caravaggio - devoid of the light-and-shade contrasts (chiaroscuro) that he discovered and used to such great effect. L'Heure Bleue, as much as I would love to love it, has none of the chiaroscuro that is required to give depth and perspective. What's true in art is also true for perfume.

You may all flay me alive now....

12th May, 2014