Review of the vintage Perfume:
The opening is one of Guerlain's greatest: a rich, red, deep carnation, like emanating from one's button hole, with touches of aldehydes, ylang-ylang and a Guerlinesque background adding the odd fiery sparkle. This carnation is less of a soliflore than the one in the same house's Oeillet OOO triple perfume but more faceted in nature. The drydown adds some iris, with later jasmine enforcing the floral nature of this scent. In the base I get a discrete amber-cinnamon note that is given further depth by an unobtrusive vanilla with a touch of sweetness. In spite of the post-war frugalness the ingredients are of sensational quality and wonderfully blended. Very good silage with excellent projection and a superb longevity of nearly ten hours. Another all-time great of Guerlain.
This is a rare and discontinued parfum extrait from the post-war 40's created by Jaques Guerlain. It is presented in a tall crystal bottle paying homage to the skyscrapers built in that era. This is a well blended floral with a unique guerlinade base and is meant to evoke the fiery flowers of an island volcano. It starts with a rich carnation note that give it its fiery quality. To my nose it has notes similar to nahema's rose and chamade's ylang ylang. Although the spicy accord of carnation is prominent I also detect aldehydes and jasmine in the composition. The middle note is a luscious powdery orris that is reminscent of Liu. But where Liu edp goes to a sweet powdery drydown Fleur de Feu becomes deliciously warm and caramelized gourmand, it is not cloying or foody but comforting like the feel of warm cashmere in the cold - I think the base has notes of patchouli, vanilla and tonka bean.
14th December, 2007 (last edited: 23rd April, 2008)