So wrapped up in the wonder of Cuiron then and now, I never gave the original EDP much of a look in.
The re-issue is just wonderful in a powdery, musky, ambery type way.
Think of a cranked up Ambrette 9 with a touch of spice.
A must have imo.
This is a light, musky scent with spices and powder. Is it like Musc Ravageur? Yes, but freshly washed, dusted with powder and ready to be put to bed. While Musc Ravageur may be too suggestive to be a comfort scent (although I do not get the sexual note that others do), this is a cosy, comfortable scent that is sophisticated in its simplicity and very Helmut Lang.
Aha! I’m starting to sense a pattern here. Maurice Roucel takes Musc Ravageur out of the bedroom and into the nursery, refashioning it as Helmut Lang EDP.
It’s an amazing accomplishment when you think about it – it shares the same basic DNA as Musc Ravageur, and even smells somewhat similar – and yet the feel of one is a hundred million miles away from the other.
If Musc Ravageur is lying spread-eagled in the boudoir, spilling out of its red lace teddy and trying to disguise its Adam’s apple, Helmut Lang EDP is the tender gripe-water exhalation from a baby sleeping in its cradle. (The only teddy here being the one clutched in fat little baby fingers).
The opening of Helmut Lang EDP always reminds me pleasantly of nightly bath time rituals with my children: the Chicco calendula and lavender baby wash I use, the smell of plush cotton baby towels fresh from the drier, and the innocent smell of the skin at the nape of their necks, which I cannot resist nuzzling.
Few people talk about the sheer sensuality of children these days for risk of being misunderstood – but parents of small children will understand when I say that there is no greater sensual pleasure than the smell and touch of small children. It’s why parents can’t resist nuzzling and sniffing their kids. We are drawn helplessly to their velvety skin and their specific, milky smell.
Helmut Lang EDP smells milky and warm and fresh and innocent to me. It opens with the baby breath of heliotrope, neroli, and pretty orange blossoms. Later, it strikes me that the musk and vanilla is on the knife’s edge of being not-so-innocent after all. Maybe it’s even a little dirty. But not dirty in the Musc Ravageur fun, sex way. Just not as squeaky clean as you might expect from its opening. I don’t find it sexy, though (due to the nursery associations). Just touchingly human in scale, which is nice too.
Helmut Lang EDP is quite modern, airy, and stream-lined, a further departure from the butch oriental category wherein I mentally place Musc Ravageur. But I really should stop comparing them – leaving aside the obvious Maurice Roucel DNA they share – Helmut Lang EDP simply occupies a different place and function in my wardrobe, and I like them both on their own terms.
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This review is for the reissue.
For me this starts out as a sweetish, clean musk with a metallic tinge & a hint of florals. l'm not especially keen on that metallic edge, but it quickly dissipates, & over the next few hours a more animalic musk nudges its way to the fore. This musk is soft, warm & friendly, not overly dirty or offensive, & lasts to the very end around ten hours later.
A very nice, intimate skin scent, this is just animalic enough to satisfy, but still just polite enough to be worn in public.
The new version of Helmut Lang's EDP is quite close to the new EDC, just with a slightly more prominent presence of tonka, vanilla and heliotrope - less metallic, transparent and "abstract" than the EDC and a bit more warm, substantial, more balmy and sweeter, and in a way more "conventionally" cozy and clean. Yet, it still carries as well that particular sort of architectural, dusty feel of "gray", so the avantgarde factor which makes Lang's range so unique is here as well. If you had to choose between the new EDP and EDC, my advice would to be to go for this; it's not exactly the same, but is fairly similar, just richer and a bit more persistent. Sadly I can not give my opinion about the faithfulness as regards to the original version, as I've never tried it. As-is, I consider it a really pleasant, clean, well-built scent, a bit costly but unique enough to be worth at least a try (by the way, I agree with the similarity with Labdanum 18).
Synthetic yet cozy, the 2014 re-issue of EdP is soft, warm, and frankly, quite brilliant. It feels deceptively simple, but it’s clear that there’s a great deal of nuance. It strikes the perfect balance between powdery florals, semi-sweet musks, and balmy vanilla with just a touch of cinnamon. It’s like a creamier, more edible Labdanum 18 or a refined and less dramatic Musc Ravageur, yet it feels more accomplished than both through its seeming unfussiness. Furthermore, there’s an insinuation of a laundry motif created through the tiniest inclusion of soapy lavender that makes the scent feel abnormally clean—like a plush toy taken straight from the drier.
It sits close to the skin, but not so close as to be considered a skin scent—and I could see how it could potentially be over-sprayed. However, there’s nothing belligerent about it—no harshness to the synthetics whatsoever, and it somehow keeps from being cloying even when it feels like it should be. It’s pillowy and soft but it doesn’t feel juvenile.
Sadly, I never had the chance to smell the original, and I’m sure that some changes were made at some point (there's an ebanol-style sandalwood lurking in the base), but this is pure, powdery comfort. It’s probably too pricey as it stands, but it does what it does so well that I imagine it won’t be hard to rationalize the price. Total comfort in a bottle.
Got this as a tester bottle from Fragrance Outlet. Pretty good, allot of vanilla i think. Very clean smelling to me. Doesn't hurt my nose like allot of them do.
Helmut Lang EDP (Original)
Musc Ravageur's sister. No doubts. In my vision Helmut Lang EDP was Roucel's prototype for his much more hyped Musc Ravageur. Replace the cinnamon/spices combo of the Malle with slight yet spohisticated floral patterns, tame it down a little bit et voilà, here's Helmut Lang EDP.
Same dirty/clean vibe, same overall allure. Simply brilliant and undeservedly overlooked. Terrific!
Helmut Lang EDP (2014 Version)
The great news about Helmut Lang re-launching their whole range of fragrances, surprised quite a lot of us in the fragrance-sphere. Everybody was happy and concerned at the same time to discover if they messed up with these mythical fragrances and with much of my surprise, I've to say they didn't at all.
Current EDP is incredibly close to the original but, if I can dare, it feels almost better. It's slightly stronger and more balanced on the sweetness and, after all these years, still feels unique enough to gain all of my support and endorsement. I've to say that I found the original musk a bit more nuanced as it felt clean but maintained a certain dirtiness typical to this ingredient whereas the current iteration feels overall woodier and cleaner. Still top-notch stuff in my book.
05th May, 2012 (last edited: 07th November, 2014)
This is a brilliant fragrance and shamefully discontinued. It's another fine demonstration of M. Roucel's talent, and so much better than much hyped HL Cuiron...
Somewhat similar to Musc Ravageur, not that suprisingly. But I like this a tad better because it's not as loud. You know, musk scents are at their best when they wear close to skin without too overwhelming sillage.
HL Eau de Parfum is mainly a mixture of candyfloss vanilla and french herbs with animalic trace of jasmine-civet-patchouli accord. The overall impression is of high quality natural musk, or the cotton candy served in a heavenly funfair.
Long lasting pleasure.
This is marketed to women, but don't be fooled: It's based on HL Cologne (for men) but only with more intense concentration. Totally unisex and wonderful perfume in general.
this is such a comfort scent! addictive too. a cotton note comes into this with lavender and creamy--did i say CREAMY? because i mean a creamy vanilla.
i have no problem layering this with a single floral note perfume oil. i can't imagine anyone getting offended with this subtle, sweet and sexy gem.
the only problem i have with this perfume is it being more difficult to find than these five pounds i'm trying to lose.
Helmut Lang Eau de Parfum/Helmut Lang Woman
In 2000 Helmut Lang had Maurice Roucel create two scents for each gender Helmut Lang Man and Woman. In reality they were two different strengths of the same scent with Man being the eau de cologne version and Woman being the eau de parfum version. It is curious that a brand like Helmut Lang which was known for its androgynous clothing designs actually made an effort to gender classify their signature scent. It is equally curious why he chose M. Roucel to design these scents as his scents have a lushness to them that also seems to be the antithesis of the Helmut Lang design aesthetic. Especially since these two scents are really only different in their emphasis on certain notes I find that I prefer the Eau de Parfum version as it has a strength to it that appeals to my aesthetic. The top starts out with a soft entry on a wave of florals dominated by jasmine and lily. This is a fleeting short-lasting top as the real business of this scent takes hold as musk and rose hold sway in the heart. This combination reminds me very much of Serge Lutens Muscs Kublai Khan as it contains many of that scents deeper muskiness without the intensity present there. The base of this is a creamy mixture of vanilla and woods including sandalwood mostly but joined by some cedar to add some clearly defined lines to the woodiness. Helmut Lang EDP is mostly about musk, on me, and it comes off light and appropriate for daily wear. Where I would never think about wearing Muscs Kublai Khan into the office I happily wear this one. Does that make Helmut Lang EDP, Muscs Kublai Khan Light?
My first Helmut Lang experience was with Cuiron, which I hated. I couldn't understand what the raves were about. So I was hesitant to try this, but thank god I did. It is truly amazing. Everso's review is spot on. This is a rich, creamy, sophisticated musk. I like Musc Ravageur, but when I am in the mood for that I will go to this now. When I have it on, I can't help but sniff myself. I am sure I look ridiculous, but this scent is addictive and very unisex.
this is BY FAR the sexiest musk scent in the world.....EVER. forget all the Musc Ravageur overhyping nonsense....THIS is the real deal. the creamiest, most well balanced, complex, and dynamic musk you'll ever smell. The people behind these Helmut Lang scents were geniuses.....HUGELY recommended.
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Loved this and bought it around 6 years ago after my ex boyfriend wore it. I find it to be an amazingly sensual smell and really gets me in the mood! I'm in to my gourmand fragrances and love the buttery texture to this smell.
Just wish I could get it now in the UK! If you know where it can be purchased please tell me!
This is a very well-blended vanilla-based oriental. The harmony is so tight that it is difficult to pick out a lot of the individual notes. The "cotton" note is vaguely present as a kind of "clean linen" or "fresh laundry" vibe, which does come across a bit in the top note. The overall impression from this is of a more-than-typically fresh and slightly floral vanilla. It's the sort of thing that might be a daytime office scent, or a subdued evening fragrance. Not something I'd wear a lot, but definitely good to have on tap.
As a big fan of the EDC I've been looking forward to trying the EDP, especially because longevity is the biggest problem with the EDP. First off, this is not the exact same fragrance as the men's version, but more concentrated... close but not exact. They are both blended such that individual notes are not immediately evident.
Whereas the EDC starts out with the 'sharper' notes (jasmine? rosemary?) from the get-go, the EDP starts more softly, with the florals more prominent, and the woody and patchouli notes present themselves later. Most people immediately recognize the buttery feel of this fragrance... what creates this buttery effect is the combination of musk, heliotrope and vanilla. The more I wear it the less I interpret the scent as 'butter'. I believe the EDP is less 'buttery' anyway.
Rounding out he musk are some light florals - lily of the valley and rose. Lightly piercing through the musk and florals are woody notes of cedar, patchouli and sandalwood. Of course this really is a skin scent, and on me the sandalwood is particularly evident and sharp - almost spicy. HL does not present itself this way on my girlfriend at all. The florals persist longer, and are more noticeable, in the EDP. Overall either version is unisex. Seeing as though Dior Homme has made it ok for guys to florals, HL really was ahead of its time.
As of this writing both versions are getting harder to find and the cost is going up. If you're interested I'd recommend checking HL out before it becomes elusive.
Loads of people comment on this when I rarely wear it, that I feel unfair in saying that this is one of my least favourite purchases of all times. I love the musk, but the overpowering vanilla nauseates me and gives me a headache. Longevity is good, which is always unfortunate for me when I wear it!! I have never smelt this on anyone else so have little insight into how it might smell on others, maybe it is my chemistry that makes it so unpleasant. Definitely try before you buy, and IMHO not ideal as a gift, way too risky.
The scent of licorice is so overwhelming and otherworldly that I relish Helmut Lang when I decide to wear it. I’ve selected the word “when” because for as in love as I am with this scent, I cannot possibly put it on everyday. At work, I found the scent cloying, taking on a perfumed funk as my day progressed. If you work in an uptight environment, Helmut Lang Parfum is definitely going to freak-out your co-workers…on second thought, maybe that’s what you’re looking to do. However, Helmut Lang Parfum wears a different mask in the evening hours; the perfect scent for daring behavior at sundown or seeking out thrills on the back of a motorcycle or just a wonderful fragrance for a beautifully cool and breezy night of art gallery openings.
Delicious is an excellent description for this scent. I don't think it's really a typical gourmand, but it does have a soft, buttery warmth to it that feels very soothing and appealing. It has a different feel than the EDC, but definitely related (something like how Opium EDT and EDP or Bandit EDT and EDP are similar, but have different "dynamics.")
What it shares with the EDC is that it is very personal and, like Lang's fashion, creates an understated mood without overpowering anybody 100 yards away. My only hope now that Lang's clothing brand has been picked up by new buyers is that they'll also purchase the fragrance license and re-release it. The EDP, EDC, and Cuiron are perhaps the best designer scents in the past decade and it's a SHAME they disappeared along with Lang from the scene.
absolutely delicious. I loved it when it first came out and saved my money for a big bottle. I sensuous and sexy, has notes that remind me of Santa Maria Novella Heliotropo and Agent Provacateur, although more vanilla in HL.
Similar to the mens version but stronger, naturally. Very well suited for layering with the edc, that blend becomes more than just the sum of it's parts. Wonderfully ambigous and decadent, the ultimate MUSK -ride.
The musk - aka "skin accord" - notes in this unisex (there's not one each for men and women; they're the same fragrance) scent kill it for me and not in a good way at all. Musk is not generally a problem note for me but in this incarnation in Helmut Lang it's just cheap-n-nasty and so prevalent that the only other notes I can even detect are the lavendar and almondy heliotrope, neither of which exactly meld well with said skin accord. A chilly, metallic scent on me and also very cologne-y, it's not pleasant on my skin. Others don't care for it on me either; I have received several semi-pointed anti-compliments on it when wearing it.
Wonderful scent !!! I'd classify this as more of a comfort scent, at least to me. I actually don't get any of the top notes in this, or if so, they disappeared pronto. What I get mostly is a very comforting sandalwood scent, with a feel of added musk, with light vanilla to sweeten it all.