Calèche starts out smelling like and aldehydic green floral chypre – a sort of softer and more floral Givenchy III or a muted 1000. It’s the “muted” that impresses me over the first part of the development, as Calèche rapidly settles into a slightly spicy floral leather skin scent with a mossy background. Besides a delicate transparency that’s rare among floral chypres, it’s most appealing feature is an almost-but-not-quite edible, nutty quality about its chypre core. The soapy moss and woods drydown that plays out after a few hours is in keeping with the rest of the scent’s refined development.
With its clean, prim demeanor, Calèche occupies a significant niche in the realm of chypre scents. It’s sophisticated, elegant, and somewhat formal. With its conspicuous aldehydes, it’s also a touch “perfumey,” in the same sense as, say, Chanel No. 5. It strikes me, paradoxically, as very gender-neutral as well, perhaps because it is so dry and understated. At any rate, it is a scent worth exploring if you enjoy chypres but find some of the other classics of the genre too opaque or heavy.
Aldehyde floral and vetiver-leather
Caleche is an example of classical perfumery. Beautifully executed aldehydic floral .
This has been no doubt reformulated since it first came out and I am reviewing the latest version Soie de Parfum which I bought this year 2013. Longevity has suffered somewhat but still a fine perfume.
( My bottle bought in 2009 Soie de Parfum - the scent was stronger / denser than this one and the dry down had more oakmoss . )
Gorgeous citrus and aldehydes open Caleche , rose - jasmine, iris in the middle , some ylang and the dry down is mostly vetiver these days with a touch of moss and a slight leathery vibe. Clean , classy and smells expensive.
It is quite close to Amouage Gold Woman but Gold is more peachy/plummy in the middle ,thicker and has a bit of frankincense.
Caleche in its present Soie de Parfum incarnation is also close to Chanel No 5. It is closer to Chanel No 5 than Amouage Gold Woman is supposed to be.
In fact, Caleche smells more like the Chanel No .5 of old than what No. 5 is today.
Wonderful stuff if you love and appreciate classic perfumes.
Pros: Classically beautiful
Cons: Longevity is not as good as previous versions "
This is for pure perfume vintage mini, smells so much more natural then current version
This opens up with beautiful green oak moss mixed with nice aldehyds, which go quiet very soon, leaving natural effect behind, and a touch sweet woody snadalwood-oak moss mix takes over wth zesty lemon, just a touch of powdery iris, nothing like soapy synthetic modern version, this may be the only oak moss that i truly enjoy .
For the day
As soon as the rounding olfactory Caleche's evolution is accomplished the aroma you inhale is a sort of extremely sophisticated (rose-ylang ylang-iris), soapy-velvety-leathery scent with a woodsy nature and a floral and nutty/leathery fluidy undertone. The perfume is rosey, soapy and leathery with that kind of neutral volatility produced by aldehydes and with an indolent, dreamy retro feel proper of the citrus-rose-aldehydes-musk chord. In the same vein as Madame Rochas and First V&A, this complex, masterfully balanced, evocative and restrained concoction is a floral chypre with its jasmine-rose-iris sophistication, its musky base of sandalwood, cedarwood and oakmoss and the leather velvety vibe exuding that sort of soapy/silky neutral-rosey-suede classic spark. I consider this fragrance as a sort of Equipage's old sister because both the fragrances share the Hermes's type of classic-retro feel, the soapy-leathery-boise trail and a restrained moderation in the masterful combination of precious elements. The fragrance performs a moderate sillage and a great longevity on my skin.
02nd October, 2011 (last edited: 23rd February, 2015)
Starts off with a juicy citrus aldehydic burst, then softens to powdery floral with touches of rose, ylang ylang and iris. A musky, leathery, animalic note lingers in the background and grows more apparent as Caleche dries, keeping the florals from going too powdery or sharp. Warm mossy dry woods round out the scent, and I can't help thinking this is one of the truest chypres I've smelled thus far. Feminine and classy with a hint of masculinity to give pause. I can understand the references to Chanel No.5, but Caleche seems more like a second cousin rather than a direct relative.
I remember experiencing 'Caleche' for the first time in my early twenties and how very closely she resembled the relatively new Chanel 19, I was unaware then they had both been created by the great Guy Robert. Sadly many of his earlier creations including Madame Rochas have been altered almost beyond recognition with each reformulation, becoming not only insipidly weaker but also very nearly unrecognizable from the original formulas. Caleche's greenish/fresh aldehydic opening is similar to many of this floral/chypre genre with that unmistakable heart of rose, hyacinth and ylang thus setting it apart from others like 'Madame Rochas' by the inclusion of cassis bud & scads of Florentine iris. I also believe the quality of the woody bases are much more synthetic these days considering the rarity of Mysorean sandal, amaranth & Brazilian rosewood. To have worn this in the pure parfum concentration decades ago was absolute luxury, a contentment also found in the original 'First' by Van Cleef & Arpels and of course as mentioned previously the 'au courant' and innovative Chanel 19. My reference to 'First' is to emphasize the perfect connection between the accords of blackcurrant bud (cassis) and the floral absolutes. I'm not surprised to see this scion of 'haute-parfumerie' still in great demand today, another jewel almost lost to the ether of obscurity.
The soie de parfum seems to be in short supply lately, a possibility of discontinuation herhaps ?
Woe, Woe & thrice WOE ! ! !
12th June, 2011 (last edited: 11th July, 2011)
floral aldehyd chypre composition by Guy Robert who composed the great equipage for hermes as well.perfectly balanced and refined feminine fragrance.timeless and outstanding.(vintage caleche!)these were still times when people were able to compose!scents that were magic and unique !!!
Calèche, Calèche! What have they done to you?
The current version is a mildly aldehydic, inoffensive, soft, woody scent. A pale shade of what it used to be. It completely lacks character and smells like fabric softener.
A nice fabric softener, I must admit.
I might enjoy it if I had never tried the vintage version. Not only I have tried it but I have stocked up a bit on it.
The vintage version is seriously aldehydic, woody and powdery. The quintessence of chic and class.
It is a powerhouse in comparison to the diluted-skimmed-watered down current version.
Thumbs up for the vintage version.
Neutral for the new version (if I hadn't known her old self)
Thumbs down for butchering such a beautiful classic.
Calèche recalls associations with spring because of its combination of cool aldehydic chypre with green notes and warm woody bases. I don't get much of a chtpre here. The base is more woody than mossy. Interesting is a salty note in the bases (probably what people call urine) that comes from vetiver with musk and oakmoss in the absence of patchouli and vanille. The combination of aldehydes and iris makes this perfume pretty powdery that may be experienced as "old fashioned". The floral bouquet is classic combination of Jasmine, Rose and Lily-of-the-Valley, supported by iris. In this fragrance the first party is played by aldehydes and woody powdery base. The flowers are on the background. It becomes warm on the skin, but reveals not a sweet, but sulty warmth that may smell a bit strange. No leather on my skin. Smells good on a male skin, especially after aldehyde and powdery notes are settled down and the warm powdery woody base start to play.
This is a perfume for perfumistas and much older women only.
You know what I mean, right? If you cannot get past cat pee and pampers types-of associations, don't try it. Because just about more than any other "classic", this is a challenge to behold: strident top notes, too much civet, too much powder...
That said, *I* happen to think it's a glorious creation. And thankfully, it is one of the rare fragrances, which has a sillage that is wholly different beast from the smell on your skin...And the sillage is fabulous!
It is, perhaps, the smell of Grace Kelly's floor-length fur, hanging in a prestigious coat check while she enjoys a meal. There is something voyeuristic about this smell for me, as if I am the coat clerk at that restaurant, sneaking a smell of something fantastically grand, forbidden opulence, and I life I couldn't ( and shouldn't) understand.
Also, the fascination with eras gone by is a huge part of my love of Caleche. I feel like I understand history better, knowing this smell. That's why I love so many of the classics. They "take me there".
I don't really wear it out, as much enjoy it like a fine cognac, in my *private* sphere; As of yet, I just couldn't quite pull it off.
Please, only buy the Eau de Soie; the Edt is just water; I am serious.
I have no idea why - no idea - but until recently I'd never even sampled Caleche. Even though I consider myself something of an Hermes fan, I'd simply never gotten around to it. To cut to the chase, I love it... but I'm also glad that it took me years to finally get around to sampling it because had I tried it when I first began collecting fragrance I may not have been so enthralled. I shall explain...
Vibert's excellent review hits all the major points. Caleche presents an aldehydic green chypre as such a scent should be: classy and proper. The opening floral/green/citrus accord is blended such that no one note is distinct and it is downright bitter. I assume most people sampling Caleche are out at this point. If you stick with her, Caleche's heart slowly evolves and a more distinct rose and lily notes began to poke their heads out from behind the bitter aldehydic opening, adding a touch of sweetness to balance the green notes.
For those of you not familiar with vintage chypres, Caleche is likely not going to be enjoyable. However, for those familiar with Caleche's contemporaries, the Miss Diors, the Givenchy IIIs, and the Chanel 19s of this world Caleche fits in quite well. The addition of aldehydes over the green chypre structure harkens to the great Patou Caline. Caline is softer and less bitter with sandalwood in the drydown, but they are both fresh, dry, and equally well constructed. Given that Caleche and Caline were initially introduced within months of each other in the early 60s, I wouldn't be surprised to learn there was some cross-inspiration one way or the other.
I'm not sure how reformulation has impacted Caleche, but I'd would assume based on some of the reviews that modern restrictions and synthetics have changed her somewhat. Luckily finding old examples of Caleche doesn't seem particularly difficult or expensive, at least not yet.
To me this represents the epitome of savoir faire.The balance of diverse components is masterfully restrained, allowing some nuanced accords to bask unfettered through the various phases of Caleche.It retains all the positive attributes of an old fashioned formulation,while still feeling fresh, youthful and vibrant.
The opening is bold,with a host of acidic components vying for the last word in astringency. None are allowed to overwhelm, and it is within this fresh and confident beginning, that the fragrance gathers its momentum. The heart notes are a initially an engaging accompaniment to the opening, then creating potent accords of their own. This floral axis contains wonderfully aromatic notes, using particularly odoriferous elements such as iris, gardenia,lily of the valley and rose. There is plenty of time to enjoy the top and heart notes as these phases are especially long-lived. The base is smooth, slightly sweetened and effortlessly classy. Again the balance is superb, allowing a particularly organic and earthy phase to bring Caleche to its climax. A fragrant nexus of wood and vanilla notes counter the remaining floral notes efficiently, allowing this long-lived phase to be enjoyed for several hours. This fragrance was an absolute pleasure to review, and will remain in my memory for some time.
Initially it was unappealing, but later develops into a soft sensual fragrance. I think it is a little old for me, but still quite lovely.
Some 10 years ago a lady in a pefumer's shop smelled Caleche and sighed: "My, it's so beautiful". She could not afford it, somehow perfumes were (and still are) more expensive in Poland than in Western Europe. I sniffed at it - and it smelled sort of difficult. After some years I took a risk and bought it for myself. The first contact was still difficult - it smelled so unlike today! "So what! - I thought. - I do not need to be like today". At first I planned to wear it only to chic classic dresses, but soon I was wearing it to everything, blue jeans and black emo T-shirts included! You won't believe it, but it went well with these, too! Maybe because it went well with my skin and psyche? One of the greatest masterpieces ever, an adventure for the soul!
I bought a bottle of EDT Caleche for my Mom when she was still alive, then took it over when she wasn't crazy about it. She was a Chantilly Lace fan. I loved it then and I love it now because it reminds me of her and because I just love the scent.
“Classic chypre” –those two words make it a certainty for me – I guess I’m easy. Calèche (Soie de Parfum) could easily be the paradigm for the sensual, sophisticated ‘60s chypre: It’s classic from the aldehydes in its citrus opening; to the indole laden jasmine that unites with the soft, elegant rose in the heart; to the rich oakmoss, sandalwood, cedar wood drydown with its soft, sensual powder overlay. Calèche doesn’t stop at being a paradigm for the ’60 chypre, it adds value to that already stellar category: Its cited relationship to #5 for example – a beautifully composed aldehyldic floral. And then there’s Hermès traditional quality and value that radiates from this creation – this is classic Hermès all the way. Calèche is a beautiful feminine chypre that boasts balance, refinement, classic development, good sillage, and phenomenal longevity. It is of its era, but that is no negative…
Caleche was released by Hermès in 1961 and smells like a perfume of its time. It is a classic elegant chypre fragrance that starts off with a more astringency than say 31 rue Cambon or Y by YSL. However, after 15 minutes so, the floral and dry citrus notes smoothly emerge and then it becomes clear why Caleche is considered a masterpiece by Guy Robert. As for comparisons, I think Caleche is smoother and more wearable than Jolie Madame, Miss Dior or Bandit but for a newcomer to chypre-land, Diorella, Y and 31 rue Cambon are probably easier to enjoy. In any event, I find Caleche to be a very confident, sophisticated perfume that is the epitome of French chic. Excellent sillage, by the way.
Here are Caleche’s notes, as gleaned from various perfume websites: bergamot, mandarin, orange blossom, aldehydes, jasmine, lily of the valley, rose, gardenia, iris, ylang-ylang, oakmoss, sandalwood, cedar and vetiver.
Tested on paper from a sample my wife got as a gift several years ago when she bought a fragrance. The first spray remembered me an old perfume, in the line of Avon, my grandmother used when I was a child.
At top notes, some citric and fruity notes can be smelled (most lemon, also bergamot) plus some aroma that gave me the idea of "antique" or "old" (perhaps aldehydes). The middle note is floral, with roses and jasmine. Base note tends to woody notes (oakmoss, cedarwood, sandalwood, plus vetiver), keeping the fresh citric floral first notes.
A classic fragrance, for daytime or office, all seasons. It don't seem to have a range of ages for use (it's like a cologne), although I tend to associate it with older women.
This scent is a fraternal twin to Chanel's #5. I know, it seems impossible, but listen: both scents share the following notes~ ylang-ylang, jasmine, rose/mayrose, sandalwood & vetiver. The Caleche incorporates a few others as well; such as iris and oakmoss, which add the dry crispness the aldehydes contribute in #5. After drydown, there is also a
striking resemblence to YSL'S Rive Gauche. A rich and womanly chypre. At any rate, after 45 years in production it's obviously a winning fragrance. Timeless!
My standby for many years, and my joy. The EDP lasts well, and it goes anywhere, any time.
I recall it took me to my first interview, and has a special place in my life that will never be ousted. Sillage softer than I'd like.
I love perfumes with a touch of hyacinth, and am surprised that this has none - but I can now see that it has been missed out!
Gorgeous & elegant scent. I simply loved it!
An old-fashioned floral perfume with a bit of a clean soapy presence. Hermes has a way of "owning" a fragrance, interjecting its signature and presenting it as unique and classy. With its lily and neroli notes, Caleche is cool, refined, and unusual by today's standards.
This is one of the sixties, and as a few other feminine fragrances from that period my nose registers it as suitable for both men and women, by todays standards. I have given it a try, consider it a floral leather mix, very elegant and very suitable for women wearing costume, or suit.
As sometimes with older Hermes scents - I respect them more than can feel love. Lasts just well, sillage is rather controlled. I would prefer the other old coach, Equipage, any time.
This , i think is the best Hermes fragrance, followed closely by Un jardin sur le Nil. This is a refined, woody, mossy frag. I don't know if anyone would wear this at an specific time of day or night but i have smelled this in a hot weather at daytime and it works fine as well. The ingredients are top notch: lemon, bergamot, neroli, lily of the valley, vetiver, cedarwood, sandalwood and i think it has rose and iris too.