This is a quite successful attempt at creating a dry citrus scent that does not involve the usual trio of orange, lemon or lime.
The grapefruit burst upon opening is true, subdued and quiet. The patchouli and vanilla blending as its base is so subtle and perfectly balanced that neither stand out as individual notes.
The neroli and cassis never overwhelm either. Pamplelune is closer to cedrat than the usual sweet sharp citruses that are most familiar to us. This seems a perfect scent for summer wear. It has very little sillage, so is really more for self indulgence than impressing others.
A real surprise for me and a welcome one. Bravo Guerlain!
Not a bad grapefruit in the opening, with a traditional bergamot-neroli background - restrained and refreshing. A touch of fruitiness in the drydown and a reasonable tonka impression in the base - the middle and base notes are a bit disappointing though. Limited sillage and projection with eight hours of longevity - not very exciting but the opening is well done, so just making it to a positive score. 3/5
Grapefruit is tough to manage as anything beyond a transient,
refreshing top note. The same tart acidity that makes grapefruit so
pleasantly brisk can smell outright sour on longer exposure. Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune and Czech & Speake's Citrus Paradisi are the only two pleasing grapefruit-centered fragrances I know, and they succeed
through utterly opposed strategies. Where Citrus Paradisi makes a
virtue out of grapefruit's bitter/sour profile by setting it in an
outrageously animalic arrangement of civet and woods, the Guerlain rounds out its tart citrus with a cheerful, sweet fruity floral accord. There is real danger in Guerlain's ploy: the composition could easily have been too sweet, in the clichéd manner of shampoo formulae or mass market fragrances for pre-teens. In the event, Guerlain got it exactly right. The balance of sweet and tart is
perfect, and the result renders grapefruit exotic and tropical,
banishing the stigma of diet fads and nursing home breakfasts.
The volatile citrus can't of course hold up for all that long, but it
projects well, with plenty of sillage, while it lasts. The drydown,
which arrives after an hour two, is a skin scent of transparent rose,
very soft patchouli, delicate, dry vanilla, and warm, clean musk. It
may pass all too quickly, but it comes in a big bottle and it doesn't
cost a fortune.
08th June, 2014 (last edited: 12th June, 2014)
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Didn't work for me at all
The grapefruit in this turned to a sour ammonia note on my skin, followed by the patchouli in the drydown that just made me smell unwashed. It lasted for a solid 5 hours, but there wasn't a time during that period that it smelled as I'd hoped. This isn't the fault of the fragrance--a lot of citruses turn strange on me--but it's something to be aware of, as I've heard others mention the same issue.
Pros: Long wearing, nice sillage
Cons: Grapefruit turned sour on me"
Loved this when I first smelt it and I still do. On my second bottle and will be getting another when this one's finished.
I find that spraying it on a scarf seems to prolong my ability to smell it throughout the day and I then get the different levels whenever I subsequently wear it.
I'm a sucker for any grapefruit fragrance :)
It's made a bit more masculine by it's non citrus notes like cassia.
Good life on the skin.
Worth trying a mini of this which are all over ebay.
Liked it a lot then and still like it now almost 15 years later. Unlike Cristalle Eau Verte which is pretty linear, Pamplelune really is zesty! I agree that there is a slight sour note like sweat in it but I actually like it better that way. Probably the neroli. It's tangy, bitter and sharp like citrus peel. Not just for summer. Would probably work better than any vitamin C tablet to combat the winter blues.
have nothing more to say but i find it addictive, since i have homage , ok its not that type of quality BUT......its perfect citrusy smell! longlasting, at first bitter , louder, later more sweet. great value for money
Not horrible, but not up my alley so to speak. Among the Guerlain Allegorica series, Pamplelune is probably the best. The allegorica series is meant to tell an story through imagery--hence the name allegory. I suppose they each tell a brief and subtle story about some seasonal beauty or another spending spring on the wind-swept fields of Provence or something like that...The allegorica series, as one of Guerlains newer fragrances, lacks originality and traditional craft and uses inferior ingredients to boot. The grapefruit here is good, but the florals and blackcurrant are too much.
I was really looking forward to receiving my bottle of this - only to learn that I can not wear it. I adore using grapefruit shower gels, very emotionally uplifting! I was hoping that the fragrance would have the same effect. Alas, after wearing it for around 5-10 minutes something happens that adds a nasty "off" note that completely ruins the scent event. The off note is so persistent that my only choice is to scrub it off.
I chalk it up to my "Guerlain curse". There seems to be NO Guerlain scent that I can wear. Not Shalimar, not Samsara, and now neither of the Aqua Allegorias that I have tried. The only one that I'm still willing to try is Jicky - if I can find a vintage bottle in my price range.
The vivid, uncluttered delight of Pamplelune makes me think of a big orange Gerbera. Mathilde Laurent has paired a tart and mildly sulfurous grapefruit note with a jammy, mellow blackcurrant, and their holding hands with wide-eyed contentedness is an effect which lingers on even into the sweet and musky patchouli drydown. To be spritzed with abandon.
I truly love this grapefruit. Where most citruses have a candied feel to them, AAPamplelune accurately renders the very specific smell of the fresh white rind, with just enough musky sweet undertone to keep it interesting.
A truly divine grapefruit fragrance. It is not at all cloying, it's fresh and summery and sharp and tangy and yet very classy. My favourite citrus of all, onto my 4th 100ml bottle!
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Grapefruit is very hard to pull off in perfumery -- it can turn rank quite quickly if not careful. This is the best rendition I know and is simply wonderful -- very long lasting on me, which also surprised me.
One the best citrus fragrances I have ever tried. It's natual, refreshingly aromatic grapefruit that can also be found at a very reasonable price.
AA Pamplelune smells alot like a hugely favoured Finnish drink called Original Long Drink, which is a fermented alcohol drink made of grapefruits and gin.
I purchased Pumplelune in a big department store where they were selling a lot of superknown perfumes for $10 and $20 because their original boxes had been damaged in a warehouse accident. Tones of "unboxed" scents throwed in big baskets for you to choose. A funny picture of dozens of people fighting to get their own bottle of the latest Gucci or Dolce & Gabbana release for $10. While I was looking at all this as if were civil war or maybe a supermarket assault after a cataclism, I saw 2 unattended bottles on a side. I got closer to them and realized they were Guerlain's Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune and Herba Fresca. I rapidly grabbed them both and rushed to the counter. I wasn't expecting too much and actually I wasn't so curiosus about them, but for $20 I gave them a chance.
Pamplelune is nice. Very realistic in the opening with a big dose of tart freshly squeezed Grapefruit joined by bitter green leaves. It turns rapidly sweeter and a bit warmer with clean musk, vanilla and "shy" patchouli. Unpretentious and honest. I won't consider it as an office fragrance but I'll surely enjoy it in the summer after a day of work and a stone-cold shower.
17th March, 2011 (last edited: 04th April, 2011)
I like this pretty well--it is VERY sour on me though--truly a grapefruit smell and not sweetened grapefruit, either! I admire how realistic it smells, but the tartness and sourness is a bit overpowering. It smells like I just peeled a grapefruit with my fingers. Have to be a little careful because it is easy to overdose on it. Still, I enjoy it if I only spritz lightly.
Wonderful, fresh but elegant, Citrus and warm, great for summer!
Absolute delight. Grapefruit, slightly tart married perfectly with vanilla . Moderately sweet ,very little patchouli. Well ,Guerlain know how to do citrus + vanilla ! Very sniffable but not very tenacious.
At first spritz, how pleasantly refreshing to find a true grapefruit, sans anything overly sweet. Just a crisp refreshing jolt of sunshine and cleanliness. Like crisp linens dancing on the line. Grapefruit as in many true natural fragrances is very difficult to reproduce well enough to fool the nose.
Rose, vetiver, and lavender I find are rather hard to be true to as well. This gift by Guerlain is just that, a gift. To comment on the sourness, yes, I must admit it is there, but then again, this is a frag. that is shooting to be as true a replication of something organic as possible, and well, as for that, we are also organic. Though the reason fragrances came about was to mask this problem. Not sure how this issue can be avoided, without loosing the truth of the Pamplelune. I know how you fell though, yes, it is disconcerting when you are trying to smell as fresh,crisp and clean as a late summer breeze, when the winds of change blow by and you begin wonder if this was the best choice of fragrance for that sleeveless gown at cousin Ceilia's wedding...???
T I do say I have had to finally agree with the unfortunate sour, almost shockingly unpleasant undertones of how shall we say, " Eau de Bathe, s'il voussoirs plait! ".
Though I was expecting Pampelune to be a rather ordinary citrus fragrance, I was very surprised by how much I like. The expected grapefruit and lemon notes are there, but they are joined by sweet pineapple sorbet and vanilla notes, which temper and compliment the sharp citrus perfectly.
Pampelune is perfect for warm weather, and the only Aqua Allegoria I would buy.
Gorgeous juicy, sharp, holographic, flawless grapefruit to start with, but it only lasts 20 minutes or so. The aftermath is powdery-vanillic and smells like extract of grandmother. The grapefruit note disappears completely. As much as I love the grapefruit blast, the drydown is just a bit too feminine and too non-grapefruity for me.
This is very pretty and light. The grapefruit is refreshing, and the faint floral element is delicate. I don't get anything sour or body-odorish at any point, as reported by others, thank goodness. This is my favorite Aqua Allegoria.
I desperately want to give this a thumbs up, because the opening is so delicious. Lovely, bright, mouth-watering grapefruit -- and I love grapefruit in any manifestation. It stays grapefruit. More grapefruit. Still grapefruit. And then it's gone. I get a faint, faint whiff of the sourness some people read as B.O. but by then it's pretty much completely vanished. All this is under an hour. I really don't have the patience to re-apply every 40 minutes, so won't be purchasing. In the meantime, I'll enjoy the all-too fleeting pleasure that my sample can give me.
Fun grapefruit fragrance with a vanilla drydown that's fun without being overly-flirty. Good for daytime wear; very refreshing. Doesn't last terribly long, but that's fine.
Only Guerlain could take a "safe" citrus like grapefruit and make it both fascinating and a little dangerous. This one starts off VERY sharp and softens a bit on the drydown. BUT, as it keeps going, the patchouli comes through and it becomes citrus with some definite funk thrown in for good measure. It never quite gets into the "dirty" territory of something like Malle Bigarade Concentree (another Citrus stinker I love!), but it definitely falls into the same family of citrus scents that "you don't take home to mother."
A wonderful addition in summer, but a unique one with depth in winter, too. I love it and find that along with Winter Delice it is my favorite of the Aqua Allegoria line.
Florals and grapefruit? Wow, this is uplifting. I wear this all the time in the summer if I didn't like ck One Summer so much.
This is a fairly unique take on citrus! I adore the grapefruit/floral blend here because the grapefruit remains the star, even as the rest of this bright, fruity composition reveals itself! As it wears on my skin, I'm reminded of Ralph Lauren's Pure Turquoise - I believe it's due to the patchouli mixed with brighter topnotes...mmm it's good. Funny too, how the grapefruit notes are described as 'acidulous', because there is a definite acidic tone, which adds to the realistic impression of the grapefruit. For a lighter fragrance, the lasting power of AAPamplelune is very good, and somewhat unexpected. I'm not sure if I'd buy the full sized bottle, but I do have a mini that suits my citrus needs just fine.
Smells like sharp breakfast grapefruit on me and cat pee on my sister. Nothing here that works on either of us.
All of the elements of this are nice... the grapefruit is citrusy, (though not as sharp as I like), and the vanilla and patchouli are both present, pleasant, and accounted for. I love grapefruit/citrus, vanilla, and patchouli, separately and in MOST combinations, but do not enjoy the combination of grapefrut and patchouli together on my skin. The the long middle portion of Pamplelune smells like a lighter version of Angel's vanilla/patchouli sweetness, but without the overwhelming qualities that makes people love it or hate it, so it might be a nice lighter alternative to it.