Perfume Reviews

Positive Reviews of Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune by Guerlain

Not a bad grapefruit in the opening, with a traditional bergamot-neroli background - restrained and refreshing. A touch of fruitiness in the drydown and a reasonable tonka impression in the base - the middle and base notes are a bit disappointing though. Limited sillage and projection with eight hours of longevity - not very exciting but the opening is well done, so just making it to a positive score. 3/5
10th February, 2015
Genre: Citrus

Grapefruit is tough to manage as anything beyond a transient,
refreshing top note. The same tart acidity that makes grapefruit so
pleasantly brisk can smell outright sour on longer exposure. Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune and Czech & Speake's Citrus Paradisi are the only two pleasing grapefruit-centered fragrances I know, and they succeed
through utterly opposed strategies. Where Citrus Paradisi makes a
virtue out of grapefruit's bitter/sour profile by setting it in an
outrageously animalic arrangement of civet and woods, the Guerlain rounds out its tart citrus with a cheerful, sweet fruity floral accord. There is real danger in Guerlain's ploy: the composition could easily have been too sweet, in the clichéd manner of shampoo formulae or mass market fragrances for pre-teens. In the event, Guerlain got it exactly right. The balance of sweet and tart is
perfect, and the result renders grapefruit exotic and tropical,
banishing the stigma of diet fads and nursing home breakfasts.

The volatile citrus can't of course hold up for all that long, but it
projects well, with plenty of sillage, while it lasts. The drydown,
which arrives after an hour two, is a skin scent of transparent rose,
very soft patchouli, delicate, dry vanilla, and warm, clean musk. It
may pass all too quickly, but it comes in a big bottle and it doesn't
cost a fortune.
08th June, 2014 (last edited: 12th June, 2014)
Loved this when I first smelt it and I still do. On my second bottle and will be getting another when this one's finished.

I find that spraying it on a scarf seems to prolong my ability to smell it throughout the day and I then get the different levels whenever I subsequently wear it.

I'm a sucker for any grapefruit fragrance :)
28th March, 2013
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It's made a bit more masculine by it's non citrus notes like cassia.

Good life on the skin.

Worth trying a mini of this which are all over ebay.
02nd March, 2013
Liked it a lot then and still like it now almost 15 years later. Unlike Cristalle Eau Verte which is pretty linear, Pamplelune really is zesty! I agree that there is a slight sour note like sweat in it but I actually like it better that way. Probably the neroli. It's tangy, bitter and sharp like citrus peel. Not just for summer. Would probably work better than any vitamin C tablet to combat the winter blues.
23rd August, 2012
have nothing more to say but i find it addictive, since i have homage , ok its not that type of quality BUT......its perfect citrusy smell! longlasting, at first bitter , louder, later more sweet. great value for money
29th March, 2012
The vivid, uncluttered delight of Pamplelune makes me think of a big orange Gerbera. Mathilde Laurent has paired a tart and mildly sulfurous grapefruit note with a jammy, mellow blackcurrant, and their holding hands with wide-eyed contentedness is an effect which lingers on even into the sweet and musky patchouli drydown. To be spritzed with abandon.
26th August, 2011
I truly love this grapefruit. Where most citruses have a candied feel to them, AAPamplelune accurately renders the very specific smell of the fresh white rind, with just enough musky sweet undertone to keep it interesting.
26th June, 2011
A truly divine grapefruit fragrance. It is not at all cloying, it's fresh and summery and sharp and tangy and yet very classy. My favourite citrus of all, onto my 4th 100ml bottle!
08th June, 2011
Kaern Show all reviews
United Kingdom
Grapefruit is very hard to pull off in perfumery -- it can turn rank quite quickly if not careful. This is the best rendition I know and is simply wonderful -- very long lasting on me, which also surprised me.
06th June, 2011
One the best citrus fragrances I have ever tried. It's natual, refreshingly aromatic grapefruit that can also be found at a very reasonable price.

AA Pamplelune smells alot like a hugely favoured Finnish drink called Original Long Drink, which is a fermented alcohol drink made of grapefruits and gin.
23rd March, 2011
I purchased Pumplelune in a big department store where they were selling a lot of superknown perfumes for $10 and $20 because their original boxes had been damaged in a warehouse accident. Tones of "unboxed" scents throwed in big baskets for you to choose. A funny picture of dozens of people fighting to get their own bottle of the latest Gucci or Dolce & Gabbana release for $10. While I was looking at all this as if were civil war or maybe a supermarket assault after a cataclism, I saw 2 unattended bottles on a side. I got closer to them and realized they were Guerlain's Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune and Herba Fresca. I rapidly grabbed them both and rushed to the counter. I wasn't expecting too much and actually I wasn't so curiosus about them, but for $20 I gave them a chance.

Pamplelune is nice. Very realistic in the opening with a big dose of tart freshly squeezed Grapefruit joined by bitter green leaves. It turns rapidly sweeter and a bit warmer with clean musk, vanilla and "shy" patchouli. Unpretentious and honest. I won't consider it as an office fragrance but I'll surely enjoy it in the summer after a day of work and a stone-cold shower.
17th March, 2011 (last edited: 04th April, 2011)
I like this pretty well--it is VERY sour on me though--truly a grapefruit smell and not sweetened grapefruit, either! I admire how realistic it smells, but the tartness and sourness is a bit overpowering. It smells like I just peeled a grapefruit with my fingers. Have to be a little careful because it is easy to overdose on it. Still, I enjoy it if I only spritz lightly.
05th February, 2011
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Wonderful, fresh but elegant, Citrus and warm, great for summer!
13th August, 2010
Absolute delight. Grapefruit, slightly tart married perfectly with vanilla . Moderately sweet ,very little patchouli. Well ,Guerlain know how to do citrus + vanilla ! Very sniffable but not very tenacious.
20th June, 2010
Though I was expecting Pampelune to be a rather ordinary citrus fragrance, I was very surprised by how much I like. The expected grapefruit and lemon notes are there, but they are joined by sweet pineapple sorbet and vanilla notes, which temper and compliment the sharp citrus perfectly.

Pampelune is perfect for warm weather, and the only Aqua Allegoria I would buy.
29th March, 2010
This is very pretty and light. The grapefruit is refreshing, and the faint floral element is delicate. I don't get anything sour or body-odorish at any point, as reported by others, thank goodness. This is my favorite Aqua Allegoria.
13th October, 2009
Fun grapefruit fragrance with a vanilla drydown that's fun without being overly-flirty. Good for daytime wear; very refreshing. Doesn't last terribly long, but that's fine.
04th December, 2008
Only Guerlain could take a "safe" citrus like grapefruit and make it both fascinating and a little dangerous. This one starts off VERY sharp and softens a bit on the drydown. BUT, as it keeps going, the patchouli comes through and it becomes citrus with some definite funk thrown in for good measure. It never quite gets into the "dirty" territory of something like Malle Bigarade Concentree (another Citrus stinker I love!), but it definitely falls into the same family of citrus scents that "you don't take home to mother."

A wonderful addition in summer, but a unique one with depth in winter, too. I love it and find that along with Winter Delice it is my favorite of the Aqua Allegoria line.
28th November, 2008
Florals and grapefruit? Wow, this is uplifting. I wear this all the time in the summer if I didn't like ck One Summer so much.
13th November, 2008
This is a fairly unique take on citrus! I adore the grapefruit/floral blend here because the grapefruit remains the star, even as the rest of this bright, fruity composition reveals itself! As it wears on my skin, I'm reminded of Ralph Lauren's Pure Turquoise - I believe it's due to the patchouli mixed with brighter topnotes...mmm it's good. Funny too, how the grapefruit notes are described as 'acidulous', because there is a definite acidic tone, which adds to the realistic impression of the grapefruit. For a lighter fragrance, the lasting power of AAPamplelune is very good, and somewhat unexpected. I'm not sure if I'd buy the full sized bottle, but I do have a mini that suits my citrus needs just fine.
03rd November, 2008
I dig grapefruits. I always keep some in the fridge, and sometimes I rub the peels on my hands because they smell so good. And that's exactly what AA Pampleune is like, in the top notes. Forget all those shallow, two-dimensional grapefruit wannabes. This is the way to go.
10th May, 2008
This is the be-all-end-all of realistic grapefruit perfumes. I just bought Marc Jacobs Grapefruit for my daughter and, although she likes it, it was too simple and light for me. This one, though, is better for me. AA Pampleune is deep, fruity, bittersweet and weighty, with the help of the patchouli and vanilla base (neither of which is apparent in and of itself.) This is as good as a grapefruit perfume gets.
06th May, 2008
Fascinating ambiguity here - fragrance and stink. But then, consider the grapefruit itself: despite its great shape and color, its oil is not as innocent as the taste of its juice. As a child I used to turn my nose up at grapefruit skin, although I loved the fruit sections or slices. Still feel the same way at 79.
I happen to like Pamplelune enormously for its "truthfulness", although I was sitting next to a woman on the bus in Montreal the other day when, to my shock and then amusement, she gave me a sort sharp lecture about taking regular showers, and moved to another seat. All I could manage was a Gallic shrug...
So I don't wear it on public transportation any more.. just wear it for me and my grapefruit-loving friends. Thank you Guerlain - it's a charming, brutal scent.
05th May, 2008
I tried this perfume at once, the only time I have found it, and it was because of the good reviews it got here at Basenotes. And I am so glad I did! I adored it at once, and got a bottle! This is something I do very seldom! Pamplelune is a very unique frag, indeed. Most probably it will be my summerfragance next summer! It is such a pitty it is so hard to find other than a few Guerlain-perfumes in my country!
20th April, 2008
I am now almost at the bottom of my 2nd bottle of Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune. Do you suppose that means I LOVE IT?? I do... but am now searching for something new, something exciting, something else TO LOVE! I do believe my birthday is coming up... perhaps a small hint to hubby about... ummm say Coco Mademoiselle?! Must take a sniff in the shops very soon. But until that new love comes along... Pamplelune is still my one true love.
19th May, 2007
Kotori Show all reviews
United States
This is the most unique fragrance I have ever worn. I just bought a second bottle. (I rarely repeat.) It is so SEXY! The grapefruit and patchouli combination is erotic on me, with none of the BO smell some seem to encounter. My husband just breathes it in with a sigh whenever I wear it. Definitely try it on your skin before purchasing, and let it metamorphose. Patchouli is not a basenote that works on everyone, but if you generally wear orientals, you should be fine. This is a modern Guerlain masterpiece.
17th August, 2006
Tovah Show all reviews
United States
Revised review: I love it. I just love it and I can't live without it. Pamplelune hasn't turned into cat pee or b.o. while wearing it for the last two days. It's beautiful, uplifting, cheerful, and best of all, unique. In fact, I don't care if others think I stinks (yes I do, I'm kidding), because this makes me so happy! It's the most uplifting fragrance I've ever smelled.
11th May, 2006 (last edited: 21st December, 2006)
I have noticed the sulfurous facet of grapefruit in just about every grapefruit-scented product I have tried/tested/bought. Very bad in just about every case. But Guerlain manages it perfectly in this fresh and assertive fragrance, giving Pamplelune a funky/dirty side that sharply contrasts and complements the light, citrus notes. Rather a "tour de force" of perfumery. Not for everybody.
28th March, 2006
I like the natural, sunny notes of Pamplelune. It smells nice on me, thanks to the patchouli/vanilla combo. Although I think of it as a daytime fragrance, I have been known to wear it at night in the summer.
09th February, 2006