Carlo Corinto Vetyver
It is said, on Wikipedia, that vetiver is present in 90% of western perfumes. For a note that is so widely present it is always surprising to me how versatile it is as an ingredient. As I write this I think of all of the different vetivers I've tried and how they are distinctly vetiver-focused. The best of them manage to find a style and sensibility to call their own and to stand apart from the crowd. So it is with Carlo Corinto Vetyver which first appeared in the 1980's. This is not the same scent which is currently being sold as Carlo Corinto Vetiver the spelling lets you know it is the original version. The newer version is nice, the original version is spectacular. The top is classic lavender and citrus but it only lasts for a little while as the vetiver comes to the fore quickly and takes over the proceedings. The vetiver accord here is a cross between the sweet version present in Guerlain Vetiver and the smoky version present in Frederic Malle Vetiver Extraordinaire. When I say cross that's what I mean in that it never reaches the sweetgrass feel of Guerlain or the campfire smokiness of Extraordinaire. Instead in Vetyver it is more like walking through a field of newly growing vetiver in the spring that still has some remnant of the fall burn lurking about. This mix of smoky and sweet is what makes Vetyver a real stand-out for me. The base is a strong hairy-chested sandalwood which is to be expected from a scent that was born in the powerhouse 80's. For those who want a strong masculine vetiver-based scent, with longevity and sillage, Vetyver is very likely the scent you are looking for. This is a sophisticated, thinking man's kind of scent. Too bad Carlo Corinto has chosen to dumb this down and release it as Vetiver these days.
A truly wonderful opening, aching with elusive memories. Dame Edith's conservatory ("amid the tiger-purring greenery")? The french windows opening onto the summer night garden of an abandoned country house? The long, empty schoolroom with its wooden floorboards and the silent laughter of dead children? I'll keep it with mine. (de Charlus).
Wonderful vetiver fragrance of the soapy variety. Starts with bergamot, a little lavender and a little incense behind a soapy haze. The top notes drop off into the soap and then the true vetiver emerges, and what a note it is.
It is rounded and never "sticks out" too far. It is also earthy, warm with a little salty tinge. It is sweet like guerlain's wih just a little of that low-down-sparkiness-"back-nose" feel like vetiver extrordinaire. The woody base supports well, holding up the vetiver without intruding and smells of high quality ingredients. The sandalwood in particular seems wonderful and perfectly attuned with the main vetiver accord.
An absolute winner. All hail Wicozani for putting it on the radar.
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I so wanted to like this one since the author of the famous Vetiver Redux on Basenotes found it to be his favorite. I found it interesting, but it did not ring any bells for me. It begins with pure frankincense, moves on to a light dry smoky vetiver, embraces a green note with a bit of iodine, and settles down to citrus with sandalwood. It is masculine, subtle and sophisticated and it can be recommended as a thing of quality. It just didn’t rock my boat.
You've got a winner there, Sir, if I may!, my faithful valet told me the other day, a quizzical look on his face.
Carlo Corinto Vetyver (NOTE: this review is of the earlier Vetyver, but there is no listing for it in the Directory) is an incredible surprise! It is full, rich, powerful, smooth, woodsy, and earthy. Thirty minutes in, and it generates a little soapy character, while after 2 hours it is both stronger and noticeably soapier. After 4 hours, Vetyver is stronger than when first applied, wow! After 8 hours, no sign of Vetyver letting up, and at 12+ hours Vetyver is still hanging on, with a very powerful patchouli and/or sandalwood base that just won’t quit! Carlo Corinto Vetyver is an amazing old-school fragrance that is a brute of a powerhouse!